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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/07/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Hmm.. bugs have been fixed according to the changelog ( https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/ ), unfortunately not the ones I was having problems with. Since the change log only lists some of these bugfixes, who knows. Supposedly 100+ more fixes went in, which ones is anyone's guess. The 3-4 bugs / reproducible issues i've had are still in. The disappointment stems from the fact that the "main features" of this update, as announced here: https://www.simplify3d.com/software/release-notes/version-4-1-0/ are imho a bit of a let down. Support for 6 extruders, better rafts. Ok, but not sure if that's what the majority of the user base has been waiting for. More accurate print time estimates as the 2nd featured item? Besides the fact, that it'll still be off...I just can't get excited about. Problems: well, besides the new dynamic prime towers either not rendering properly or not working at all, and not having the first clue where to specify the dimensions of the extruder to actually use the new "collision detection in sequential printing" they added, no, no new problems so far. But then again, they didnt add much to begin with.. Who said 2 out of 3 aint bad? ? In short: too little too late. Looks to me they're unwilling or unable to maintain meaningful development. Cura and Slic3r already surpassed S3D in features, I am finding less and less reasons to tell my folks: it is still worth spending $150 on simplify3d. Heck, after using S3D exclusively since 2016, I am now catching myself using Cura 3.4.1 <g> more and more. Because, you know, it has some really useful features that S3D doesn't have and probably never will.
  2. 1 point
    Ah, now I get it, so you say the belt slips in the "Sliding Block" (the name of that black thing) Then it must have been wrongly installed in the factory, I never heard this before. The block has two plastic parts that click together, I would ALWAYS advice to replace them after you take them apart, as the clips holding them together will almost certainly damage when opened. There's a spring inside the block, that probably was mounted incorrectly. It's an easy fix, but considering it's a new machine I would contact the re seller to have them do it, Unless you're not close to a reseller then have them send you a new block+spring and do it yourself... I would not ship the machine away for something like this... https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004339946-XY-Axes-Parts-Belts-Pulleys-Motors- https://ultimakernasupport.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/115004168803-Reseating-Your-Sliding-Blocks
  3. 1 point
    I have a bondtech on a UM2 and a Ultimaker+ feeder on a GO (clone). The bondtech looks similar to your setup, I mounted it higher, think this is a perfect position as you can hold the spool either at the left or at the back. For the GO I made a custom spoolmount that i placed off-center, to make space for the feeder. Here's my mount for the UM2 https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bondtech-qr-high-bracket-for-ultimaker2
  4. 1 point
    Honestly, I think the prime tower is a great idea as it offers comfort to newbies. I know it did me until I got information about it and this was during the changes that they put in regarding the preheating and cool down temps. But it is nice to get weened off it as it does add a lot of material usage and time. Basically, a great starting point when new to machines, but eventually there is a time to expand. Edit: and though they do try to offer things that are good for other printers than the UM line, it does carry well with the UM printers.
  5. 1 point
    At the risk of asking the obvious, then why try the new prime tower if prints are doing well without it. Or is this just a test to see if it works?
  6. 1 point
    frankly after more than a year without updates I expected more news. Have the bugs been fixed at least?
  7. 1 point
    In addition to what Smithy said about printing cool, printing thicker layers also may help. Then tend to sag less than thin layers in my models. The basic problem is that your overhangs are too steep.
  8. 1 point
    The statue is about 20cm tall. I don't have the stl file at the moment to give precise numbers, but, if memory serves, the print I did was 1 day and 20 hours without the tower, and close to 3 days with one. The statue is tall but thin, so I think the tower added quite a lot of material to it. I'll check if I can find the file on my other computer to compare and post precise numbers.
  9. 1 point
    Looks like you print too hot or with too low fans. You want to cool the printed layer as fast as possible, that it is cool enough before the next layer comes. In the upper part, there is a kind of "support" of the previous layer and you don't see such effects, but the overhangs in the lower part have only very little support from the previous layer and that's the result. Check if you can print cooler a little bit, check your fan speed and when the fan goes to full speed and maybe lower your print speed to give the layer more time to cool down.
  10. 1 point
    In order to properly test it i need the machine. Since I can't fix it during work time (As Ultimaker is paying me to make Ultimakers work better, not fixing other printers), i need to do it in my own time. In order to convince me to fix it in my own time, I want to get something in return (since I value my time and can think of more fun things to do with it). That's why i say that if people want me to do something, they either ask it nicely, pitch a really really cool idea or pay me (or a combination of the above). In this case; sending me the printer will count as payment and help me actually fix the issue.
  11. 1 point
    If "other software products work", why don't you use this other software? Have *you* paid Ultimaker or the other Cura contributors to develop their software for your printer? If not, let me remind you that you are *not* in a position to demand anything. You can politely ask for help, however. Ah, so now you have switched to personal insults. It is not the job of the others to sift out the information you want to convey from dozens of vaguely coherent and sometimes rude posts written in barely intelligible English, it is your job to present this information in a clear, concise and adequately detailed way. So if you want to get on with this, I think you should clearly state, in one post: -which printer you have, and/or what control board you use exactly and how you connect the printer to your computer -what you are trying to do -what you have done so far to reach that goal -where you are stuck, and where exactly it is that you think the people on this forum can help you
  12. 1 point
    Aside from all the other rants I am not even going to read, this is an incomprehensible mess. Basically, their job is not to make sure Ultimaker's software interfaces with every printer on the planet. Their actual job is to make sure it interfaces with their printers. Why this is such a problem, I dunno, but at this point, with all the really, really bad translation statements and such, I am really not going to try to argue with someone that is complaining that they bought a printer, and then complains that something, not written for that printer, or should have ever been written for that printer does not interface. Buy a cheap printer, well, you get what you paid for. Why this is so hard to understand escapes me. But, I will say it again. Ultimaker's software team is not beholding to the "Other" printer community at large. They cannot solve every other printer's issues and should focus on their software/hardware solutions. And, it does make much more sense for them to solve their own issues for their printer base than everybody else's. Uh, no, you missed this point entirely. The software is open sourced, and can be fixed and submitted by the manufacturer. So, yeah, I got a point wrong, but the philosophy remains the same. Why does your printer company not actually expend THEIR money to make things work? That is the question on the bottom line. Try to read subtext and not specifics. I can get a tech point wrong, but does not support your argument at all. Again, when these cheap companies actually have to expend resources, it will not remain cheap. But, I will also state that you seem to not get that someone, on team Cura, offered their time to fix your issue and yet you still rant against them because they are not going to buy your printer to fix the issue.
  13. 1 point
    @x_pack: I don't get why you are upset. You write a rather rude and demanding post because Cura, which you downloaded free of charge, isn't plug-and-play with your specific, non-Ultimaker printer. @nallath very generously offers to fix your problems in his free time. Instead of being grateful, you continue yelling around (writing in caps is considered yelling on the internet) and writing rather confused posts where it is very difficult to find out what it is that you actually want. By the way, so far we don't even know which printer you are really talking about...
  14. 1 point
    I installed it.. And honestly, I shouldn't have bothered. What a disappointment.
  15. 1 point
    I agree on this 100% duet3D give to that printers (that are open source and people work on features ACTIVELY) will give you more for your buck. Think that while UM gives profiles (their argument) and ‘tuned’ that’s only a reality for um3-umS that are the focus of UM now. UM hasn’t updated hardware or firmware for um2 in 3 years and much less their basic firmware (because they think isn’t needed and also they don’t make € from that). Railcore is a very interesting machine, with a really sturdy frame up to big speeds. And E3D multitool is a nice idea for dual/multitool stuff (but is more dependent on the user and less click/print). If you want to learn and get your hands dirty go for any of this 2. You will get more printer (and better frame speeds and hardware) for almost the same or less €/$ Duet3D big advantages is that can grown and personally what I love is that rebuilding the firmware is as easy as editing a gcode/txt file and clicking the reset button. Also their boards have been tested by many for years now and they are rock solid. And last point, a new um2 board is around 250€ and you get atmega, old & noisy steppers. The only UM machine with silent chips is the UMS and well... that’s for other post ?
  16. 1 point
    We can't and won't support all printers. Some USB based printers work. Some don't. If you send me a copy of the specific printer you want to get working, I will attempt to fix this in my own time ?
  17. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    5,568 downloads

    To improve the CNC Router and not just to drill stuff, I also wanted to cut materials like cardboard, vinyl, paper, etc. Before to buy a lasercut, I did find in Internet a very interesting tool to transform the Spindle into a cutting machine. I wanted to buy the knife tool, but my spindle collet is 8mm, and most of the tools I saw doesn´t fit on it, so I decide to make my own, and after some failed prototypes and test, I made one that until now, after several test it works just great!. The blade can be coupled in two different positions, with a cut depth of 6mm or 10mm. Component list: - 2x bearings with 8mm inner diameter - 1x 8mm x 50mm rod - 2x collar - 9x M3 30mm screws with nuts and washers - 2x M3 16mm screws with nuts and washers - Blades I spend like 30€ on components, but that´s because I bought more than I needed, just to have spare parts, and the 3D printed parts, cost like 2€ with a 2,2kg Colorfabb XT Spoon.
  18. 1 point
    Print time prediction with Cura seems quite weird. Cura tells me 14 hours and then the Ultimaker 2+ eventually tells me it is 19 hours. At the end of the print, the time left drops faster than the printing advances. It tells me 1 minute left and still prints 2 minutes later. I really don´t get it....
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