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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/31/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    I'm working on a plugin that changes the new GUI in Cura to be more settings-centric by adding back the concept of a sidebar. If you can't get used to the floating panels in the new GUI, there will soon be a plugin for you. While rearranging things into the sidebar, I am also taking the chance to rearrange some other bits: move X-ray from the Preview tab to the Prepare tab in my opinion it makes more sense to detect/show errors *before* slicing reunite the Open button with the Toolbar Fitts's law suggests keeping distances between small items smaller; I just dislike having UI elements in all corners of the UI. add the same menu and sidebar between Prepare and Preview so things don't jump around The plugin is currently in the state of a proof-of-concept; there is currently no way to switch between the Recommended and Custom sidebar, and there is no way to change the materials/printcores in the sidebar. When all standard functionality is in its new place I'll post a prerelease here before publishing the plugin to the Marketplace. If you can't wait, you can check out the code here: https://github.com/fieldOfView/SidebarGUIPlugin Things I'm considering: integrate the action panel into the sidebar move job name into sidebar move standard view items into view options/legend area The plugin is a spiritual successor to the Compact Prepare Stage plugin, though it was written from scratch with a different end-goal in mind. That plugin will not be developed further. Update: a beta is available below:https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/26014-sidebar-gui-for-cura-40/?do=findComment&comment=229800
  2. 6 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  3. 6 points
    We Printing Buildings. Usually it is only exterior. Please see the pictures
  4. 6 points
    This was a work project that I decided to print myself. It's a really great model!! The original was going to be investment cast for a Bentley owners club hood ornament in the USA. Printed at 0.1 in innofil white pla pro1 with ultimaker PVA support. Build time was just short of 2 days.
  5. 6 points
    My new rug. Just for fun.
  6. 5 points
    Since we only ever fill the threads with complaints and blames about bugs and errors, the positive should also be highlighted. Bringing the firmware from UM3 to the same code base was certainly not easy. And it was even more difficult to ensure a smooth update process without bricking the UM3. Therefore I would like to thank all developers and testers for their work! 👍 👏 Please keep up the good work.
  7. 5 points
    Humble administrator's garden was approved by UNESCO to be included in the world heritage list in 1997.
  8. 5 points
    Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  9. 5 points
    Most of my plugins are now available for this beta in the Marketplace. Two are One is still awaiting approval from Ultimaker. Note that plugins that are now becoming available in the Marketplace probably will not work with beta 1; they need beta 2.
  10. 5 points
    my first latest glowfil experiments... super quick but fun. Hard to photograph.
  11. 5 points
    Here are some photos of a Chainmail sphere in progress. It's from a design I created ten years ago and thankfully the writeup is still available. The plan is to write an updated tutorial with some easier techniques that have now surfaced. Les
  12. 5 points
    In the last months I tried several storage solutions for my the print cores, but either they didn't fit or it was not practical. Most storage solutions have the problem, that they are open and dust can easily get into the core which is not good at all. Some days ago I had an idea, to put my print cores in an Ikea Skadis container mounted on my pegboard. Inside this container, I designed a print core holder which is based on @ultiarjan version and holds 3 cores per container. Here are some pictures: The cores are now stored in a safe place, protected from dust and can be easily accessed. Ikea Skadis container: https://www.ikea.com/at/de/p/skadis-behaelter-mit-deckel-weiss-80335909/ @ultiarjan print core holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/core-case-for-ultimaker3-core-s And finally, the redesigned version which fits into the Skadis container: Skadis Print Core.stl
  13. 4 points
    Greetings! We’ve just released a new stable firmware for the Ultimaker S5 and the Ultimaker 3 (Extended). Use your Ultimaker printer with Ultimaker Cura 4.0 and an Ultimaker account, and you can make use of the remote ‘cloud’ printing feature. This lets you print from outside the realms of your local network with an Ultimaker 3 or Ultimaker S5 via your Ultimaker account. There are also some other features detailed in the blog. This release also introduces unified firmware, which makes it easier for our embedded team to support releases for the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker S5 together. Because of this, the installation process is a little different this time around. First, install the ‘stepping stone firmware’. When this is installed, update your firmware again to get to the latest version. For our S5 beta testers, you will also need to follow this process. Update instructions and release notes can be found here . When your printer is running firmware 5.2.8, you will be able to use the same .swu package for the UM3 and UMS5 to update firmware in future, reducing the risk of bricking your printer. Feel free to offer any feedback or comments in this thread.
  14. 4 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  15. 4 points
    Here my project from the last weekend. A wall clock, controlled by an ESP8266 microcontroller. The ESP controls a LED stripe to show the current time which is fetched regularly via Wifi from an NTP server. The clock contains 6 segments for the ring and 60 parts for the minute indicators. Red shows hour, green the minute and blue for the seconds. Now I only have to find a nice place to put it on a wall.
  16. 4 points
    Because I can make a plugin that fixes some of your issues, but I have no say about the UI of Ultimaker Cura? Would you rather I don't make an alternative GUI? I don't understand responses like this. Note that what the plugin does would not have been possible with a plugin in previous versions of Cura. Ultimaker have made the Cura UI more plugin-friendly. Now you have a choice, even if you don't like the default option.
  17. 4 points
    I pushed v1.5 update on GitHub. It is mainly to replace the 19mm short bearing with a long one for better reliability. Changes: 1. Both X and Y bearings are now both 35mm long, same as the original UM2 printhead. It is more stable and reliable. The previous 19mm Y bearing had a few downsides: only misumi sells ones with sufficient build quality, they wear faster than long bearing, etc. To make proper space for the long bearing, I had to increase the X offset of nozzles from 18mm to 19mm, and the housing from 35x35 to 38x38. This resulted in 2mm less X print area but it is well worth it. 2. New fan shroud design. Blower fan changed from 3015 to 3510. Homemade aluminium cover by soda can at the bottom. The fan shroud can be printed with lower temp materials such as modified PC (heat resistance of 90C). 3510 12v fan is easier to source with more consistent stock. For those of you who already bought the 3015 fans, there is still a fan shroud variant to use 3015 with v1.5. 3. Hotend fan changed from 2510 to 3010. Not really for performance improvement. 3010 5v is much easier to source and cheaper. 4. Lever dock is simplified with only one tab. This gives the lever freedom to sweep back at full speed, not limited by the travel speed of printhead. Nozzle 2 falls back to it's position with optimal momentum. 5. BOM is hence modified with the new fans and bearing. The hotend, spring and bolts stays the same. 6. Firmware update for v1.5 moved to dedicated repository. I may or may not update the assembly images because people can still figure out how to assemble v1.5 based on the original images. I'll upload the jig and instructions for making the aluminium bottom cover later.
  18. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0


    This is a suggestion to develop a new type of support that gows from the side of the printed part instead of the print bed. This could reduce material used for support and reduce print time. I have done two tests to compare, the design can be improved and i am sure a slincing algorythm can be added maybe in "Cura" to have Ramification support. I added Pictures and the models of two comparative parts. Let me know what you think and if you can develop the algorythm. This is totally open source suggestion i claim no right for. I only would like it to be named "Ramificaitons". (STL need to be rotated 90 degrees)
  19. 4 points
    Hi all, I've published a new plugin in the Marketplace, available for Cura 4.0 (Beta). It allows you to search and import STL files from Thingiverse without having to go do the actual website. Functionality is limited now, but eager to hear feedback on what to add next. Note that this plugin was build in my spare time, it is not affiliated or sponsored by Ultimaker or Thingiverse. Chris
  20. 4 points
    Could you give it a try with the following settings? We had some good results with these: Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 40 Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3
  21. 4 points
    New to 3D printing, but not to modelling (experienced with Rhino, ZBrush, C4D, among others....). This, however was a bit of a new experiment for me. Printing my own brain from a 3D MRI dataset. Always wanted my brain on my desk..... This first one I sent to Shapeways to get printed through laser sintering. Expensive, so I only got it printed 80% of actual size (and hollow). Figured it would nice with lighting inside, and I couldn't resist putting the lightbulb over it - for when I want to signal I had a good idea! I now have a Ultimaker S5, so I printed the second one full size out of Translucent Blue PET/G. The most expensive part was filling the hollow structure with PVA. Used half a spool for that! Hope these animated GIFs attach properly - haven't posted before......
  22. 4 points
    Hey, great idea! Hallo, grossartige Idee! There s no way to niggle the whole time! Man(n) kann nicht die ganze Zeit nur Nörgeln! Time to show some positiv stuff! Es wird Zeit auch etwas Gutes zu berichten! The Picture shows a little park bench for H0 1:87. Das Bild zeigt eine kleine Parkbank für Modelleisenbahn H0. It was created with Lightwave, sliced with cura and printet with an UMO+. Die Bank wurde mit Lightwave modelliert, mit cura gesliced und auf einem UMO+ gedruckt.
  23. 4 points
    Among many other things, I’ve been making dry boxes.. the meter was moved outside through the box in the close up. Each box with 4 reels takes about 38 printed parts plus some shower rod and screws/nuts and silica gel. I’m going to have 3 boxes of ready to go filament. Probably won’t store PLA in there The PTFE can go all the way to the extruder (swap out the short piece for a long one). Humidity in the box is running 17%. I’ll need to add a shelf on the back of the machine stand to hold it. This should make things more reliable without worrying about humidity. We will see how it all works out.
  24. 4 points
    Either well estimated or just had luck. 🙂 One more layer and it would have failed.
  25. 4 points
    I made some improvements for my self adjusting filament guide: - The version 2 (the white parts on the pictures) can now catch and release the filament without pulling it back. - Thanks to a snap connection between the holder and the sphere no glue is required anymore.
  26. 4 points
  27. 4 points
    Well the fabric has taken a different path what i had planned failed due to other colours and the fabric being too thick. but in the meantime the S5 and dry ice, lol. why not, i just had some left over from a film shoot.
  28. 4 points
    I feel it would become a support nightmare. Many reports don’t even spell “Cura” properly, let alone the version number. Having daily builds only complicates that.
  29. 4 points
    Hi all, These Liberator designs have been removed. They had slipped through the cracks. Thanks for reporting them here. Even though this eventually reaches us, it might not be the quickest way, we have created a private Telegram channel to directly remove spam posts. The channels gives a quick preview of each new post and has direct buttons to "Spam it" or take a closer look. The buttons in the channel will then directly update to reflect that it's been spammed and you can undo this. If anyone wants to help combat spam and designs like this, we would sure welcome this. Of course we would like to explain it a bit before we do this. E.g. a person can mute the channel and we can discuss in this channel to ensure someone is "on duty" but not everyone in this is distracted with each new post (I would argue: in today's day and age, attention is one of the most scarce resources). To reach me, you can e-mail me at ym - at - erikdebruijn.nl. If you're already on Telegram you can use @ErikDB there. Of course, don't feel any obligation to volunteer for this, but know that it is appreciated and probably saves time to catch spammers and "problematic" designs/posts.
  30. 4 points
    Yes i think thas the name! Tulle Its lots of fun and so many posibilities, i will try dual colour next and then weirder shapes. And patterns.
  31. 4 points
    Another feedback is to have the list of Print settings (windows/drop down) flexible so you can enlarge it. A expend all settings button as well.
  32. 3 points
    Google for "simple led circuits" and then select "images". This shows the setup. Always keep in mind: LEDs do need a resistor to limit current, otherwise they burn out! Usually the voltage over a LED is between 1.6V (old red LED) and 2.5...3V (blue and white LEDs). The recommended current for a nice illumination can go from 1mA to 10mA usually, depending on the LED. Don't come near the maximum current through the LED, always stay well below 50% of the maximum. So you need to look up the specs of your LED, or measure them: - normal voltage over the LED= Vled = ? - recommended current through the LED= I = ? What battery or charger are you going to use (I would recommend a 5V or 9V charger): - sourcevoltage = Vs = ? And then calculate the resistor as follows: 1) resistorvoltage = sourcevoltage minus LEDvoltage = Vr = Vs - Vled 2) resistor = resistorvoltage divided by LED current = R = Vr / I 3) power dissipation in the resistor = current multiplied by voltage over resistor = P = Vr x I Example: Imagine this are the specs: - Vled = 2.2V (=voltage over LED, from the specs of the LED) - Vs = 5V (source voltage, as usually found in chargers for charging USB devices or smartphones) - I = 5mA (=recommended current through LED in the specs) Then: 1) Vr = Vs - Vled = 5 V - 2.2 V = 2.8V 2) R = Vr / I = 2.8 V / 5mA = 0.56 kOhm = 560 ohm (take the closest available standard value) 3) P = Vr x I = 2.8 V x 5mA = 14mW (then add some spare: triple this value and take the next higher available resistor series, so it does not get hot: for example take a resistor of 250mW, a very common series) 4) add an on-off switch. That is all. You values may be somewhat different, but this is the principle. Basic scheme But do recalculate the resistor value according to the specs of your LED and your sourcevoltage or battery voltage!!! It may differ. Usually the long pin of the LED is the plus-terminal. And the pin connected to the "dish" inside the bulb is the minus-terminal. Usually, but check it. It only works if you connect the plus-terminal of the LED to the plus-terminal of the battery or source, not vice-versa. Plastic LEDs like these can be grinded or reshaped with a Dremel and cutting disk, as long as you don't hit the wires and chips (also not the very thin wire on top of the chip). But they do get fragile. I used to do that in model trains and cars, to make them fit. But don't cut/drill into modern white LEDs. Typical resistors. The color bands indicate the resistor value. Google for it. That is all there is to it. Use a battery charger with short-circuit protection. And/or add a mini fuse yourself. (All pictures via: "Google --> Images". Credits to the original photographers/designers.)
  33. 3 points
    Question: what nozzle diameter does your printer have? If I were to guess, I would say 0,015748". Is that a nice number to have all widths depend on? What is the wall width if use 3 extrusion thicknesses? 0,0472441". Do you really want to think in those numbers? 0.4mm and 1.2mm respectively sound like much more workable numbers. I have never seen a 3d printer that is based on imperial units. 3d printers are intrinsically based on metric units. This may be different from CNC machines, I don't know. But Cura is designed for 3d printers.
  34. 3 points
    I learned recently that the USA isn't using the Metric System due to pirates, even though it was officially placed in the law. The more you know, and how small events can have big effects! 😉 @MIO This forum is hardly the place to have that good old discussion about Imperial vs Metric and which system is best, and @alan-bc specifically mentioned that he wasn't looking to start a flame war about switching. This thread is about CURA, and if having the option of switching to Imperial units helps @alan-bc and other users in their everyday use of CURA and their UM printers, then I'm all for it. I have literally zero knowledge of the amount of work that coding such a thing would require, plus testing and such, but, from the user point of view, I would agree that it would be useful feature for those who are in countries that use Imperial units. After all, we can already chose the language and the currency units to use, and the software let me put it in French and the currency in $, for example, without a fuss.
  35. 3 points
    Hey all ! New here and to 3d printing in general, thought i'd post up one of my first semi succesful prints. Mostly came out ok, had some warpage on the bed because I thought I could get away with a simple brim and not a raft, which seems to almost never work on my Tevo Nereus. Also had several layer shifts, not sure how to fix that yet. Still learning. All in all its still functional and working great !
  36. 3 points
    We've just released the second beta of Ultimaker Cura 4.0 and we'd love your feedback. The more feedback we get from you now, the more we can implement into the stable release - coming soon! Some new additions you can expect in Ultimaker Cura 4.0 beta 2: Based on your feedback, the print core type in the configuration selector header is now visible and the custom mode settings panel is now adjustable to show more settings at once. With an Ultimaker account, you can also access an early preview of Ultimaker Cloud features. These will become fully available with the release of firmware 5.2, which will be available very soon. Check out my update blog here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52819-new-beta-of-ultimaker-cura-40-now-available Download the latest beta here: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/ultimaker-cura-software Feedback, questions and comments are all welcome!
  37. 3 points
    This is a Tractrix horn that I constructed with Fusion 360 (imported calculated data) and printed with Cura on my UM3. At the back side of the horn a tweeter is going to be mounted and the whole stuff will become part of a stereo audio system (I made two of them for a friend of mine who is an audio fanatic). Material: Ice PLA, colour "Glamorous Gold", printed with 0.8 nozzle and some PVA support.
  38. 3 points
    You can look at the situation like it is “sad” that you need a plugin to restore the GUI to what you are used to, or you can look at it as “great” that it is now possible to even make such a plugin. It was not possible to charge the GUI to this extent in 3.6 in a plugin, but it is in 4.0. Now you have a choice, which you did not have before.
  39. 3 points
    I am interested in helping with this project. I'd like to design and manufacture the heat break parts to suit both 1.75 and 2.85 mm filament. I should be able to make them compatible with Olsen and 3D Solex blocks.
  40. 3 points
    Dr. Hill from Reanimator. The teeth came out great! Damn red is so hard to photograph! I'm going to try to acetone it and wipe the white residue off, but I just can't seem to as others appear to? what am I doing differently I wonder....?
  41. 3 points
    Pour le PVA c'est délicat.. mais pour les autres: avec un fer à souder, tu chauffes les extrémités que tu assembles ensuite en les alignant au mieux... puis tu les ébarbes et tu ponces la soudure pour avoir un filament le plus rectiligne possible .. C'est jamais parfait, mais chez moi ça marche, et je n'ai jamais décelé d'anomalie de l'impression au passage de la soudure... J'ai juste acheté l'outil qui est plus ergonomique et a des pointes adaptées au lieu du fer à souder qui chauffe souvent trop fort https://www.makershop.fr/finition-impression-3d/1197-modifi3d-outil-finition.html Le vieux PVA, qui aura forcément pris l'humidité ambiante, ça me semble plus compliqué, même si ça peut marcher...
  42. 3 points
    ou en imprimant 1 éprouvette à la fois.... toujours au même endroit...
  43. 3 points
    En dessinant le remplissage dans la modélisation de l'éprouvette... et en imprimant sans remplissage.
  44. 3 points
    Same goes for the barbarian & orientation plugin. They will work with the 4.0.0-BETA-2!
  45. 3 points
    Contact Trianglelabs support? I am sure they will give you the answers you are looking for.
  46. 3 points
    I did a couple of transparency tests on waterclear PET. See the pics. Test specs: - material: PET, colorless ("waterclear"), brand: ICE (Belgium). - model: block of 20mm x 10mm x 10mm, with a watermark logo included halfway at 5mm height, saying: "©️GEERT" (Caps-heigth = 3.5mm). - printing temp: 215°C, unless written otherwise. This is at the lower end of the specified range of 215...250°C for this material. - top row: all printed at 50mm/s, and 150mm/s travel speed (=the defaults for my UM2). - bottom row: all printed at 10mm/s, and 20mm/s travel speed, thus ultraslow. - layer height from left to right: 0.40mm, 0.30mm, 0.20mm, 0.10mm, 0.06mm. - nozzle: 0.4mm (standard nozzle of my UM2, non-plus). - infill: always 100%. - flowrate: always 110%, to really push the material into all corners and close the gaps. - exceptions to the specs: model at bottom-right (=10mm/s, 0.06mm): printed at 210°C to avoid overheating and discoloring. Models at top-row left (0.40mm and 0.30mm) printed at 225°C, to easier melt the material at that higher flowrate. - I have not post-processed any of these models (except cutting off the final "take-off string"), thus no grinding, no polishing. So the irregularities on the top and sides do distort the transparency and visibility of the logo. Results: - The prints are far from transparent, but in some cases the watermark can easily be seen. - The best results are at the lowest layer heights. - Slower speeds give clearer models. However, when printing very slow, the model tends to discolor and get yellow-brown. This seems a bit similar to the brown goo that sometimes accumulates under nozzles. - Transparency (or lack of) gets worse as layer heights increase. You can see there is something inside the "frosted glass", but you can't read the logo. - At the thickest layer heights, clarity improves again, but then a crystal- or prism-effect begins to occur, with sparkles and rainbow-colors, which drowns the watermark. - If the model would be only 2 or 3mm thick, it is still transparent enough and the watermark can always be seen, although it gets distorted in the thickest layer models. - When printing very slow at thicker layers, the model starts to bulge due to over-extrusion. - At 0.40mm layer-height and 50mm/s the model does not cool enough, stays soft and deforms.
  47. 3 points
    First print 👍 I use a old UM2 not UM2+ head and feeder until the new parts are here. Works pretty well.
  48. 3 points
    a mon sens , il serait préférable de modifier l'échelle sur ton logiciel de CAO et de jouer sur les paramètres de transformation en STL (taille de triangle par exemple) pour gommer les trop petits détails.
  49. 3 points
    A prerelease version of the plugin is now available: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.0.0-2019-01-08T12_09_37Z.curapackage After downloading, you can install the plugin by dropping it into a running Cura 4.0 BETA window. Restart Cura, and you should get a sidebar in Cura 4.0 beta. Needless to say, installing the plugin in Cura 3.6 does not work. I have some more changes planned before submitting the plugin to the marketplace. There are still some alignment issues, and I want to move the two elements in the lower right corner into the sidebar. I'm also open for suggestions, but note that the aim of this plugin is not to add new functionality but to carefully rearrange existing elements and functionality. Finally, I want to mention that this plugin is not meant to undermine the work that's been done by the Cura UX designers. While their work has been user-tested at the wireframe level, mine's just what I think works better. I am cheating by offering you something more familiar looking. I like the "summaries" provided in the top bar of the 4.0 UX, but for me there are too many little issues with the collapsible panels. I think the new 4.0 UX will eventually evolve into a productive interface, but until it is, here's an alternative.
  50. 3 points
    This is my impressions more of the system, i.e. Cura (using 4 beta), filament and printer. Me: Hobbiest who may have lost his mind. Writes software for a coupla or three or so decades. Fair at making things. Background: Built a MakerFarm Pegasus (prusa-style design) 2 years ago. Spent the last two years rebuilding it and upgrading it with things like auto-leveling, better extruder/hot-end, etc. It is fully enclosed. I use Simplify3D and OctoPrint with it. Balance of ABS and PLA, more ABS then PLA. That printer prints ABS fairly effortlessly (PEI on glass bed) Goal with S5: Bigger. Dual extrusion (really want water soluble supports). Very importantly: Spend more time on the item being printed, less time of my time on the process. I print almost all one-offs, often with drastically different requirements re: quality, toughness, etc. I've run maybe a couple of reels, so early going. PLA/PVA and CPE only so far, intend to run just about everything eventually 🙂 Impressions: - The turnkey aspect is fantastic. I go from Fusion 360 -> Cura -> Print effortlessly and without disturbing my flow by fiddling with stuff. I love this. When Cura 4 gets octoprint support, I'll be switching from Simplify3D for that one too so I can replicate that flow, even though it means re-building a couple of profiles. - The print quality is fantastic. Out of the box, it was amazing. My other printer isn't crap, but this was a step above. I tried a D&D miniature (of course I play) with a 0.25 nozzle and holy crap, more then good enough. - The nozzle system (well print core) is way better than expected. I thought it was overpriced, but the ability to switch nozzles quickly and reliably makes switching nozzles print-to-print to be absolutely feasible. It is way too much effort on other printers for anything other then production use. This is revolutionary for printing one-off stuff. - The auto bed-leveling is first-rate and pretty quick. - The system can be buggy. I know Cura is beta. I have to reboot the printer for Cura and/or restart cura too often for cura to see it. I have it set with a manual IP address too; before that, it was a disaster. Lots of other little bugs; nothing show-stopper, but I'm hoping that part gets better. - The lack of built in dry-box is, IMO, a serious mistake. Way too much filament is moisture sensitive and if you aren't putting through a reel a day, it can get waterlogged too easily (or even on a long print). I've shown that even ABS can be water affected. - The mechanics are, IMO, a little underwhelming for the price point. - My machine has gotten a click on movement. I can get rid of it, but it seems to be whack-a-mole. This shouldn't be - Some of the fans are kinda noisy. Looking at the one in the shroud, its a sunon, if it is a magnetic levitating sunon they are super quiet, but some fan in there is noisy as f***. I hate fan noise 🙂 Over all though, the printer is very quiet. - Really stiff filaments, like PVA, are a serious PITA to get into the extruder for loading. - The ultimaker filament selection is ok, but not fabulous. Colors are kinda ick. White isn't very white, which really irritates me 🙂. It is really great to be able to use 3rd party though (well, a show-stopper to be honest, but ultimaker seems to fairly actively promote it and not use oddball reel sizes, etc like some, or claim you invalidate your warranty) - I love the NFC. It *really* helps keep down errors in running a print with the wrong material, especially when there is a queue. I also hate that they haven't provided docs (or possibly the ability?) to slap NFC on my own reels. Looking at the API, looks like I could POST a new material with a GUID, but figuring out how to format my NFC chips would be a rev-eng exercise. Would be nice to have a white paper on it. Also, back to the dry-box problem, I need to move the reader anyway off the machine. So, some help here Ultimaker. I don't want to rev-eng that stuff, there is more interesting things to rev-eng out there 🙂 Also, I'm trying to spend less time on the printer. - Its slow. OK, I know that quality thing is, in part, due to running slow, but a "sloppy" profile would be nice. Also, "engineering" profile that favors strength and dimensional accuracy would be nice. I've printed a relatively large item with a 0.8 nozzle and it did go pretty quick I'll admit. - Al build plate. Enough said 🙂 I really like the prusa bendable PEI thing though.... - There are some problem scenarios I'd like to see more explicitly described, like what happens if filament runs out, and how I'd load more to continue the print (or is that possible? it isn't obvious) - Patents, yadda yadda, but it should be fully enclosed (possibly with powered ventilation for filaments that don't want a hot environment). Mine is in a fairly dusty environment and even that part would justify a top. That's all in my brain dump for now. Although I listed more cons then pros, I absolutely love this printer and would recommend it to anyone whose budget can stand and/or justify it.
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