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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    This was a work project that I decided to print myself. It's a really great model!! The original was going to be investment cast for a Bentley owners club hood ornament in the USA. Printed at 0.1 in innofil white pla pro1 with ultimaker PVA support. Build time was just short of 2 days.
  2. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  3. 1 point
    Hallo, was meinst du mit "Verbinden"? Man kann jeden Drucker hinzufügen, mann muss sich nur sein eigenes Druckerprofil erstellen. Entweder einen ähnlichen Drucker verwenden oder ein Custom FFF printer erstellen Gruß
  4. 1 point
    This all depends on your printer and nozzle size.
  5. 1 point
    Important: You have to remove the M104 and M109 commands from the Start-Gcode. These set the temperature of the nozzle and override the settings you've made! (Cura writes the custom temperature before the start-gcode. If this gcode contains another temperature, this second temperature will be set every time.)
  6. 1 point
    Hello! I not sure if i writing to the correct thread, and if i make a mistake, please forgive me ? I am new at the 3d printing, i have a budget Delta T1 printer (EZT3D, chinese copy), and i just started to learn the basics. My printer's manufacturer is suggested me to use the old Cura 14, and it is working, i have a few small print. But the old Cura is very buggy on my laptop, i tried the newest one, and works great, but my printer not working with the new version of Cura gcode. I have feeding problems, the feeding motor can't press the material in, but moving a little bit (1-2 degrees) forward, and then moving in same angle backwards. I think this is a known issue, and i tried to figure out if anybody solved the problem somehow, but no luck, i found nothing. I know this is not the best printer, but i have this budget, i wanted to start somehow, and i found this solution. And as i said i can use the old Cura, it is buggy but usable. BTW if anybody can show me a solution i appreciate it ? Thanks! Ferenc Kaszas, Hungary
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