Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 7 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  3. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  4. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  5. 3 points
    Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support. If you try it out, please post feedback on this thread or open an issue at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues. You can find the release at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Remember, all my builds are provided with no warranty whatsoever. That said, I try to fix issues where I can.
  6. 3 points
    The sidebar plugin will always have to be updated for new versions of Cura. It "patches" specific parts of Cura, and when Cura is changed those patches don't work anymore and have to be redone. I do think there are still good reasons to prefer the sidebar implementation over the floating panels, so I will release an updated version of the plugin at some point, but there are some complicating factors at the moment.
  7. 3 points
    Ha, I see what you did there with the blog post title...
  8. 3 points
    En dessinant le remplissage dans la modélisation de l'éprouvette... et en imprimant sans remplissage.
  9. 3 points

    Version 1.0

    2,890 downloads

    During my spell working in the Art department on 'Avengers Age of Ultron' I was asked by the production designer to build a prop to help dress the interior set of 'Stark Towers' The model was to show the new section of tower that replaced the damaged section from the original film. As I only had 4 weeks to build it (including 3d modelling) we needed to simplify the design a bit, hence the lower portion being in laser cut acrylic. Using my trusty Ultimakers I think I pulled off the desired effect, even if it only appeared in the movie for less than a second!
  10. 2 points
    Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
  11. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  12. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  13. 2 points
    So.... what you're saying is... there is literally no reason NOT to go Mark2! Thank you.
  14. 2 points
    A new version of the plugin is required, see here:
  15. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  16. 2 points
    Fantasiewerte sind es nicht - es sind max. Werte, die mit Einschränkungen erreicht werden können. Da du so gern auf Autos, insbesondere eines Konzerns rumreitest, du kannst ja auch z.b. bei einem Auto, das max. Drehzahl 7000 U/min hat und dabei 230 PS entwickelt, die Drehzahl fahren und hast die Leistung. Das ist fakt. Ist Physikalisch berechenbar und auf der Rolle Verifizierbar. Aber käme jemand auf die Idee, mit 7000 U/min. mit seinem Auto dauerhaft durch die "Pampa" zu geigen? Vermutlich nicht - es sei den, der Sprit ist Ihm zu billig und er will seinen Motor "killen". Da genügt es schon, dass im Winter direkt nach dem Starten des Motors sowas zu probieren oder nach dem er richtig Heiß gefahren ist, einfach ausschalten. Aber die Drehzahl kann er und die Leistung hat er da dann auch. Wenn du soviel Bauraum brauchst, kommt es, wie @DirgDiggler, schon versuchte, dir zu erklären, auf dein Bauteil an. Manchmal, je nach Bauteil genügt ja schon 45 Grad drehen, aber da hier keiner Weiß, wovon du redest, wird da nichts konstuktives bei "rumkommen"... Theoretisch wäre auch die Kamera abmontierbar, was auch noch mal in Y die max. Länge etwas weiter ermöglichen würde, wenn man das beschriebene nachvollzieht. Gruß, Digibike
  17. 2 points
    I am not really a fan of browser-based GUIs, because that leaves you with an additional variable that you are dependent on but have no control over: the browser. Here are a few examples. Firefox was excellent until one day they changed the whole UI and concept, after which it broke all add-ons and became useless for 80% of its users. This broke a lot of people's workflow. Advanced users - like most people here are - tend to install a lot of add-ons in their browser, which may create additional dependencies and trouble. Some people - or some of these add-ons - may disable java, javascript, flash, silverlight, active-x, cookies, external fonts, third-party images, right-click functions, pop-up functions, resize-functions, and whatever else. If you have a good but not very common browser, like Pale Moon (=a Firefox derivation that has kept the old GUI-concept with menubar and statusbar), then this is often not recognised by the server. And then the server messes-up its webpages by *assuming* stupid things, for example that I have a micro-screen of 320x240 pixels instead of my real 1920x1080 pixels. So it sends me garbage instead of standard HTML: it sends fonts of 5cm high, so only a few lines fit on my huge screen. The bigger the organisation, and the more they are specialised in communication (e.g. news-sites and newspapers), the worse this gets, and the less they communicate. A lot of modern browsers even mess-up perfectly valid and simple standard HTML, which by design should reflow automatically in the available window. The browser should take the default font-settings if not specified, without changing them. But they don't. For example Google Chrome Mobile rescales some paragraph's font-sizes (sometimes making it larger, sometimes smaller), but not other paragraphs. And some browsers refuse to reflow text, so it falls off the screen. So you can't even limit yourself to old-school 1995's HTML and forms, because even these break today. You don't want that kind of trouble in a slicer GUI. Cloud-based computing is even worse: then you become dependent on a very unstable variable: the internet/network, coming with all its interruptions and its hazards (virusses, spyware, interception, industrial espionage...). It is unusable while moving (train, plane) or in remote areas: even Germany has no internet in lots of its eastern rural areas. And the data going over their monthly limit, and you going over your budget. Also, this creates GDPR and similar legal problems. So I prefer independent standalone applications installed on and running on the local computer. One application per function. Preferably with all user-settings stored in the same directory as the main program, or a subdirectory "user-settings". Not splattered all over the harddisk in unaccessible directories. So that it is portable. Although of course all programs should use generic and standard datafiles for smooth data-exchange. I am aware that my view may not be "politically correct", but this has proven to work best (for me).
  18. 2 points
    @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  19. 2 points
    It sounds like it's bricked. Please, do you know what version it is? I think it might show the version briefly on power up. You probably have the "stepping stone" version which was never meant to be used to print but meant to be used to upgrade to the next version. That version has this bug you describe. But if this is the absolute latest version that came out a few days ago, then it would be good to know this. How to unbrick:
  20. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  21. 2 points
    Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy útil y está todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  22. 2 points
    There is a plugin in the marketplace that puts the sidebar back in the semi old stile it was.
  23. 2 points
    You're welcome, we're happy to help where we can. I'm happy you managed to perform the XY calibration. The flow sensor did not trigger because it is in the feeder, not the print head. Even though it was not printing, that is because it was retracted too far. Not because it was not feeding any filament. So the flow sensor/ feeder was working correctly, it just received the wrong command that made it retract too much prior to the calibration. Hope this helps, and also gives you some more insight in how the flow sensor works 🙂 Not entirely relevant but perhaps interesting to know: The flow sensor is not activated during the first 2 layers of a print because of small height differences and changing pressure in the nozzle could easily result in false positives. It is activated from the third layer, where the flow became more consistent/predictable. At layer 3, when something is preventing a proper flow/feed of the filament, it will trigger then. This should still be fast enough to prevent any big problems and reduce the loss of time to a minimum.
  24. 2 points
    My understanding is that there are many grades of aluminum but only MIC6 grade is flat and stays flat. But after you heat it and cool it for months it starts to warp. Worse than the glass. ALSO the aluminum wasn't for PLA or most other materials - only a few of the new materials work better on aluminum. I could be wrong about these things - I'm really not an expert. Ultimaker doesn't like to release something unless it works very very well and consistently. I think they have learned their lesson about announcing things early.
  25. 2 points
    Gr5 Not to be argumentative and yet; it is “highly” probable and very likely that the percentage of owners/end users and businesses active on this forum is a token percentage; who knows; maybe it’s 0.1% which would equal 100% based on your sampling. Furthermore; I personally speak with a couple USA distributors that without reservation share that they too have the same trouble getting element of urgency support as such attempt as able to satisfy the customer in house. Having shared this; I too feel that the Ultimaker Team is far less connected to the end user, particularly when there is an issue than they want all to believe.
  26. 2 points
    Right now, that's how Ultimaker Cura behaves. I have an alternative implementation of the wall gap filling in my Cura releases that doesn't shake your printer to death. My releases (which can be installed alongside the standard Cura) can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Sorry, only Windows and Linux are currently supported.
  27. 2 points
    +1 to the sidebar creator. The original UI was perfect in it's simplicity and functionality IMHO. The new one seems to be different for the sake of being different, and takes away space. This sidebar plugin is fantastic!
  28. 2 points
    Could a Z-hop be added on the first layer to the first extrusion point for both extruders and travels to the material change position? This would eliminate any risk of scratching in the larger movement area.
  29. 2 points
    GR5 I do not want to offend you, but it seems to me that you are not pursuing a good goal - to say that one is better than the other, and give an example of the testing that was. You are an adult and should understand that these are two different approaches to cooling. I will explain to inexperienced people (like you) UM2 (which has been tested) uses cooling on one plate, that is, 1 nozzle through this plate heats the other nozzle. DXU uses a separate cooling system for each nozzle. There is a separate radiator. Such a system costs UM3 and S5, and the temperature of the first or second nozzle is not connected to each other. I think for a full understanding, you can just say that the cooling system costs from UM3 for cooling radiators I recommend Sunon fans Gm0502PEV1 selected 1 means flow rate 1 strongly 3 weakly there is also a fan Sunon 1 cm thick but pay attention to 1 at the end. And yes, I am very grateful to everyone who worked on the project MARK2 and DXU for the work done and the work.
  30. 2 points
    It's not that hard to disable the perspective, all we have to do is re-implement the zoom bit. It's on the back log. I've direct all the requests I've seen about it to our product owner, but in the end, it's up to him to give it a high priority (or not of course).
  31. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    9,687 downloads

    The original dodecahedral kinetic sculpture by Stijn van der Linden a.k.a. Virtox. Made of five nested dodecahedra, each one is limited to rotate around its own axis. It was printed with dual extrusion on an Ultimaker 3 with water-soluble PVA support material.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    If you have a powerful computer on your printer, such as a smoothie board or other cell phone processor then you can make this quite small, say 0.1mm, because those tend to have a buffer that can store 100 gcodes at a time so if there are 30 steps going around a rounded corner that should be fine. But if you have an Ultimaker (UMO through S5 models so far) that has Marlin in it or almost any of the other 99% of 3d printers in the world, Marlin only stores 16 future moves at a time and has to be ready to stop by the 16th. So it will print amazingly slow if you lower this to 0.1mm and your model is very high resolution (like, say, yoda). The current value of 0.8 or so, should be fine. It means that minimum line lengths are 0.8mm.
  34. 1 point
    Yes I am on 5.2.8. since then no WIFI. We have no ethernet available. When doing a factory reset, Wifi setup is also greyed out. But that's not the problem, USB firmware upgrade does not work, gives the "The firmware has failed to verify, Please retry installation." error. I noticed, when unpacking the printer log files, those have time stamps of January 01 1970. (file properties > modified date)
  35. 1 point
    ha ok je n'avais pas remarquer ceci dans la GUI. Du coups problème résolue je reviendrait içi si je trouver un moyen d'envoyer la sortie sans passer par un fichier sa éviterais des opération inutile. Pour ma part je ne chercher pas récupérer le Gcode mais l'estimation de masse et temps renvoyer dans la l'invite de commande pour comparaison avec mes méthode de calcule. Mais comme je tester sur un grand nombre de forme sa commencer a me fatiguer de faire les tranchage à la main. La au moins sa va vite, s'est organiser pas d'érreure possible ET sa se fait tout seul ^^.
  36. 1 point
    I would stay away from GreenTec/PlaTec for mechanical parts that are subject to force in any way (based on my own experience). It has very good resistance to heat, but that material gives in (softens) after a while. How long depends on the amount of force it is subjected to.
  37. 1 point
    Bonjour StefMtz, Bienvenue sur le forum, tu as quel firmware sur la machine? Sinon si tu penses que le filament n'est pas extruder assez vite, ce que tu peux faire c'est le pousser à la main, tu lève le levier du feeder et tu pousses le filament à la main par exemple au moment du prime du core. Je pense que les températures des cores doivent être bonne, ça m'étonnerait qu'il y ai un soucis de ce coté la. Peut être qu'il y a une rétractation un peu longue si tu utilise la procédure de chargement du filament (perso je le met toujours à la main ça va plus vite).
  38. 1 point
    Hallo Kurt! In Cura (bei mir 4) gibt es im Menü den Punkt "Erweiterungen > Nachbearbeitung G-Code ändern". Im sich öffnenden Fenster "Ein Script hinzufügen" auswählen. Dort findest Du dann zur Auswahl "Filament Change". Dort bei "Layer" einen gewünschten Wert eintragen ab welcher Schicht das Filament gewechselt werden soll. Der Druck unterbricht dann und der Druckkopf fährt vom zu drucken Objekt weg. Hoffe ich konnte etwas helfen. Gruß Matthias
  39. 1 point
    & video of my issue here...sounds the same as a few others. Check out the video... in the below link
  40. 1 point
    Good thing about Cura and its detailed settings is that you don't have to set values for them - unless you have to (for individual objects or materials). Detailed settings start with the default settings if you switch over. And they stay like this independent of whether they are visible or not. If you set a different value in one or more detailed settings, you override the default setting. As you pointed out, you may use only a few of them and don't want the others to be visible. For that purpose you can use one of the presets from the three-line-menu right of the search box. You can also set your own visibilities by using the visibility dialog started by clicking on a cog symbol at the header of each category of settings. If you like a certain visibility setting so much that you want to save it you can use the "Custom Setting Visibility Set Creator" plugin by @ahoeben (to be installed from the Marketplace). For what all the different settings do you get a tooltip if you hover with the mouse over it. If that is not clear enough, there is a plugin called "settings guide" that currently did not yet make it into version 4.0 but is made by the Ultimaker devs so I guess/hope it will soon be in the Marketplace again. Finally, or as for the time being, you find a lot of explanations (actually the content of the settings guide) here: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/manuals/software The pages for Cura 4 are filled day by day I think but a majority of the settings are already documented under Cura 3. I hope this helps you (and others) to find your way through the Cura detailed settings. And don't forget, you still can use the default settings and don't have change anything (for standard materials and many objects).
  41. 1 point
    Den kompletten Cura Ordner (mit darin liegenden unter Ordner) kopieren, und am bestens falls der bei deinen neuen PC schon erstellt wurde erstmal komplett löschen (bei geschlossenen Cura natürlich), dann den Ordner von deinen alten PC rein kopieren Und keinesfalls die Dateien von 3.5 in Ordner 3.6 kopieren/verschieben, das macht Cura automatisch beim ersten start und nimmt dann Änderungen vor die durch der Versions Upgrade nötig sind.
  42. 1 point
    VERY helpful. The re-design of my part has completely resolved my problem and the new parts print perfectly. But I'm sure I will run into this problem again, so the above information will be very helpful in resolving those future headaches! Thanks! Regards, Ray L.
  43. 1 point
    Hallo Knudowatz, ich drucke Momentan mit Folgenden Einstellungen (variiert von Objekt zu Objekt immer ein Wenig): Drucktemperatur 205° (meistens irgedwas zwischen 195° und 210° Druckbett 63° (allerdings nicht mit der Glasplatte vom Drucker, sondern mit dem Magnetbett von Filafarm) Geschwindigkeit 25mm/s und die Geschwindigkeit der außenwand 20mm/s Ruckfunktion 13mm/s (hier ist auch ein bisschen tüfteln angesagt) und meine Kühlung liegt bei 100% Das sind die wesentlichen Einstellungen die bei mir große Veränderungen am Druck bewirkt haben
  44. 1 point
    @cloakfiend With low density infill and low viscosity it could work, plaster might perhaps be difficult. There are openings in all directions in the gyroids.
  45. 1 point
    Sometimes a user may be pulling in things from disparate sources or positioning. Here is a good example. So, to maximize space, it is good to take all these pieces from this type of source, without making a separate file, and gang them up for printing. I spend a good bit of time circling around the buildplate to make sure they do not interpenetrate. I do have it set to not avoid models' bounding box so I can fill voids when needed or possible.
  46. 1 point
    So, I tried to print the siphon again. I wanted to try the finest layer height, 0.06mm; it turned out to be a failure, not because of the supports but because of the attachment to the bed. Attached some pictures. There was no brim, was that the problem? I didn't follow the print out, and at the end I saw the failure: I guess the nozzles were going over the lifted (not attached to the bed) parts; could they get damaged? thanks
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    To summarize, it seems that the leaning problem is due to rounding errors because of the printhead 2 offset settings, when those X/Y values are not multiples of a microstep (0.0125) Am I correct ?
  49. 1 point
    At this moment i can say that i did a succesfull transformation of my UM2 Just a little review of the work done. After reading about the magical magnetic changer, i knew i wanted one. My base was a good working UM2 which was converted to the +. Very good and reliable machine. But ofcourse, no second extruder.... As soon as the project was "released", i printed the parts, put the magnets in, and mounted everything with the old UM2 head + feeder. Then i had some problems, the second head was to high. Immediatly i was supported, and got a spacer to print, which i did, after that it theoreticaly worked. But, the old UM2 head + feeder just did't cut it, feeder skipping, bowden blocked, bwaa, ordered an extrusion upgrade kit, and mounted that, what a joy, no more worries with the feed + nozzle. Electricaly, i also ordered the Mark2 board + cables, no mess with cables, and, total control over the fans off the second hotend. The first prints gave me troubles, with out of area messages and stopped prints. Turned out to be a Cura problem. (or at least, i found a workaround for this issue) My final verdict: If you have a UM2, and want a second head (who doesn't?) this is the way to go! Play safe, order the mark2 board, use a original UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit, and good quality magnets. (900grams pulling force, these are some strong magnets!) And, to all the founders, contributors and beta testers, i can't tell you all how happy you guys make me. Support at the right moment, you got me true here. It feels like having an (even better with more possibilies) UM3, but for a much lower price.
  50. 1 point
    Look at the flair of the user you dissed. Look at mine. Look at yours. The etiquette of this board is not like 4chan. The standard here is to comment as if you are face to face. Many of us do meet with each other at conferences and maker faires. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt that you would not say "Never made use of Google in your life?" to someone you were talking to for the first time at a conference. Also, user/ultiarjan 's statement, notwithstanding the existence of combination bearings, is correct. The Ultimaker design uses bushings for XY. Combination bearings instead of bushings would be both overkill and a design problem. Given that the movement rod diameter is 8mm, a bearing outer diameter would be ~15mm, rather than the existing bushing outer diameter of 11mm. This would require a redesign of the slider blocks and more clearance inside the case.
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!