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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/25/2019 in all areas

  1. Basically, it is not needed to have the profile in the printer, it is only used to load/unload the material, but you can choose any material which has a similar print/nozzle temperature. Everything else (finetuning) is done with the profile in Cura itself. But it is planned that Cura can synchronize custom material profiles to the printer, so in the future, it will be easier.
    2 points
  2. Co-polyesters such as PETG very good in causing chipping. Renewing the glue layer for each print might improve the situation.
    2 points
  3. Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düse
    1 point
  4. here's a list of all folders to delete to get a real clean install; https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/3051 And are you aware of the visibility settings button? you may want to select "show all" to see if there are messed up settings.. The settings not shown by default can indeed F@#$up you print... I particularly always check for crazy speeds, like to fast infill speeds...
    1 point
  5. Correct. Not sure that an uninstall will actually remove your settings. Someone who knows the Cura front end better than me needs to answer your question. It does seem somewhat of an omission that there isn't a "reset profile to defaults" option.
    1 point
  6. No, a setting's visibility has no effect on whether it is used or not by Cura. All the settings have a default value which may or may not be suitable for a given print job.
    1 point
  7. That's true, but it's of course possible that only the mainboard was replaced... 😈 The numbers are very low, how old is the printer? In short: I would not make a decision only based on those numbers. It's a good indicator if the overall condition of the device matches, but not more. In this case it doesn't matter much, but for reference: Be aware that "printing" and "material" counters are only ticking for prints from the sd card. During USB printing only the "machine on" timer is updated every hour. (assuming that the default firmware is used)
    1 point
  8. Just Some goofy lamp shades I made a while back. I could go in and trim a few stragglies....
    1 point
  9. |Hi, I have the Printdry system too, and it works very well for me. My nylon filaments are normally stored in a drybox and then I move the spool to the Printdry from where I feed directly to the UM3. I normally set the Printdry at about 55⁰C. If I have ever left a spool of nylon exposed, then I dry it for a couple of days before I use it. This system seems to work quite well with no problems. I used to significant issues before I started using this process.
    1 point
  10. It's in hours:minutes So someone left the printer on for about 15 days. It has printed for only a total of a bit under 9 hours and has printed a total of 3 meters. This machine is basically new. Typically you have to change the teflon part after 500 hours of printing. I recently serviced a machine for my local library and they had printed 5000 meters. That's 5 kilometers of filament!
    1 point
  11. As the replies above said, Nylon needs to be kept in a drybox even when printing, else it will absorb humidity and go bad. You can buy dryboxes in specialized shops or find plans to make your own on this forum or websites like thingiverse or youmagine. It's actually quite easy to do.
    1 point
  12. I agree with geert_2, I print with nylon a lot, store the nylon in a dryer and feed the printer directly from there. From my experience nylon can absorb enough moisture from a humid atmosphere to affect the printing quality in just a few hours. Listen for faint popping or cracking sounds, this may be an indication that moisture in the filament is an issue. Of course it could be some other problem (or combination of issues) involving the printhead or temperature settings.
    1 point
  13. I have no experience with nylon, but from the recommendations I read here before: did you keep the spool in a dry-box with lots of desiccant during printing? And with a teflon tube from that box to the printer? So that no normal moist air comes in contact with it? It is known that especially in a moist environment, in a few hours nylon can absorb so much water that is can not be injection moulded anymore. I guess the same would apply to 3D-printing? Of course, theoretically there could be other causes too, such as dust accumulated on the filament and pulled into the nozzle, or the
    1 point
  14. I was printing a PC piece when the print core jammed up. By the time I noticed the malfunction, there was a large blob of PC material getting moved around with the print head. I removed the blob and everything seemed ok. When I tried to do another print I kept getting errors. When I went to open the housing to look at the print core, I saw the core had PC material all around it (see attached picture). The material must have oozed out around the print core during the previous error. Is there anyway to manually heat the head up to a high enough temp to remove this material? I
    1 point
  15. The material had flowed completely around the head so even when I heated it up, it did not soften enough to push the material out of the gap behind the nozzle. This gap is needed for the head to move up enough to remove the print core. I ended up having to take the printcore out with the bracket it slides into. Then I had to use Acetone to melt and chip away the PC material enough to remove the core from the bracket. There was no way to do this without destroying the printcore. So, although I destroyed the print core, I was able to get the bracket out and reinstalled into the unit. T
    1 point
  16. Updated to v1.3 to fix a major issue with it not working properly. I put an incomplete copy of what I was working on in the zip on accident. It was missing an import of UM.Application in the code.
    1 point
  17. Hallo, Also wenn ich mir eine über 3000€ Maschine kaufen würde und da würde eine "wesentliche“ Funktion nicht richtig funktionieren würde ich die nicht einfach ausschalten. Ist ja wie wenn man sich ein Auto mit Automatik kauft, und man schaltet nur von Hand. Eine einfacher schneller Versuch ist die Plattform einfach mal eine Umdrehung tiefer zu drehen, es kann nämlich sein das die Nozzle schon kontakt hat bevor die Messung beginnt und wenn das der Fall ist kann kein Unterschied mehr festgestellt werden. Kann aber auch ein Kabelbruch sein
    1 point
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