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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/04/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    New to 3D printing, but not to modelling (experienced with Rhino, ZBrush, C4D, among others....). This, however was a bit of a new experiment for me. Printing my own brain from a 3D MRI dataset. Always wanted my brain on my desk..... This first one I sent to Shapeways to get printed through laser sintering. Expensive, so I only got it printed 80% of actual size (and hollow). Figured it would nice with lighting inside, and I couldn't resist putting the lightbulb over it - for when I want to signal I had a good idea! I now have a Ultimaker S5, so I printed the second one full size out of Translucent Blue PET/G. The most expensive part was filling the hollow structure with PVA. Used half a spool for that! Hope these animated GIFs attach properly - haven't posted before......
  2. 1 point
    To print successfully ABS you need to cover the front of your printer and maybe also the top, to keep the air warm inside during the print. For adhesion, the UM adhesion sheets or Dimafix or 3DLac spray helps a lot.
  3. 1 point
    It seems you have an extrusion problem, so this can be speed, temperature, clogged nozzle, feeder, and a lot of more things. If you have printed successfully with these settings, then you can also check your hardware, feeder, nozzle, filament.
  4. 1 point
    Hey, great idea! Hallo, grossartige Idee! There s no way to niggle the whole time! Man(n) kann nicht die ganze Zeit nur Nörgeln! Time to show some positiv stuff! Es wird Zeit auch etwas Gutes zu berichten! The Picture shows a little park bench for H0 1:87. Das Bild zeigt eine kleine Parkbank für Modelleisenbahn H0. It was created with Lightwave, sliced with cura and printet with an UMO+. Die Bank wurde mit Lightwave modelliert, mit cura gesliced und auf einem UMO+ gedruckt.
  5. 1 point
    I'm very familiar with the "dadadadada" sound. It sounds horrible but the printer will not be damaged. It could be intermittent. Try homing 10 times. It could be a bad wire but more likely the switch is at the edge where sometimes it clicks/triggers and other times it doesn't. Push the head around towards the corner (back left) and listen for the limit switches to click. Do one at a time - so push the head to the left edge and to the rear edge separately. The X switch has two screws close together holding it on the top rear of the printer. Usually the fix is to bend the metal part of the switch out a bit so it clicks sooner. The Y switch is triggered by one of the rods that passes through the head - the rod sticks out beyond the left slider block and hits the switch. Usually the problem with this one is that the rod moved and isn't sticking out far enough so somtimes it misses. The problem could also be electrical or a faulty switch or a damaged wire but usually the problem is mechanical.
  6. 1 point
    If this is the effect you get (see photo), then it is lack of cooling indeed. The ruler shows mm (small lines) and cm (numbers). This is most notably when printing 100% filled models. My solution usually is: print multiple models at a time, or print sort of an "inverse" next to the real model, so the total amount of printing time per layer is always the same, and the time is long enough to provide good cooling. And print cool and slow. Using the option "minimum layer time" alone is not enough in my experience: then the filament sits longer in the nozzle, heats up more, and gets more liquid. This does not really reduce the amount of heat the model needs to dissipate, and the hot nozzle is still sitting on top of a tiny model, is radiating heat, and thus preventing cooling. The nozzle has to move away from the model *and* print something else, so the nozzle-flow is as constant as possible, and the heat source is far away from the part to cool. Effect of not enough cooling time. This should have been nice cones. This picture shows the theoretical concept of printing an inverse dummy next to a tiny real model. This is part of a real design, at the left. At right in pink is the dummy: this dummy only needs to provide extra cooling time while printing the tiny top part of the real model, so it is hollow where no cooling is needed. Putting a desktop fan in front of the printer, at its lowest speed, and at some distance, also helps to gently remove excess heat and improve shape for my models. Depending on your models and materials, lots of similar solutions might be possible. The dummies are waste, but maybe you can design them into some little toys the kids can still use? Like houses for Monopoly, pieces for other board games, or bricks to transport in their toy cars? But in your case the cause could still be something elso too. Such as: too many circle-segments in a too short time for the printer to handle, if the STL-file from which the gcode-file was derived, contained too much detail. Maybe other causes too.
  7. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    1,704 downloads

    Quality Layer height: 0.1mm* Initial layer thickness: 0.3mm Bottom/top pattern: lines Skin perimeter line count: 0 Horizontal expansion: 0.04mm (when entering 0.04mm index, the 3D printer perceives the model as monolith, i.e. as having no hidden layers). *Layer Height 0.1mm is recommended for a better quality for the printed model. However, the printing time will double. Speed setups: Infill speed: 50mm/s Outer shell speed : 30mm/s Inner shell speed: 20mm/s Top/bottom speed: 20mm/s Support speed: 50mm/s Travel speed: 150mm/s Skirt speed: 30mm/s Amount of slower layers: 4 Infill: Infill pattern: Grid Line distance: 3mm Infill overlap: 20% Infill layers: 0 Support: Enable support: Check Placement: Everywhere Overhang angle: 30° X/Y distance: 0.7mm Top distance: 0.2mm Bottom distance: 0.2mm Stair step height: 0.5mm Join distance: 0.7mm Area smoothing: 0.6mm Use towers: check Pattern: Grid Line distance: 1.5mm Platform adhesion: Type: Brim Brim line count: 10 (up to 20, depending on the model’s height) Other 3D printing recommendations: Outer Shell Speed - 20mm/s and Support Speed - 40mm/s settings apply to avoid model deformation. Apply other settings by default.
  8. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    895 downloads

    Quality Layer height: 0.1mm* Initial layer thickness: 0.3mm Bottom/top pattern: lines Skin perimeter line count: 0 Horizontal expansion: 0.04mm (when entering 0.04mm index, the 3D printer perceives the model as monolith, i.e. as having no hidden layers). *Layer Height 0.1mm is recommended for a better quality for the printed model. However, the printing time will double. Speed setups: Infill speed: 50mm/s Outer shell speed : 30mm/s Inner shell speed: 20mm/s Top/bottom speed: 20mm/s Support speed: 50mm/s Travel speed: 150mm/s Skirt speed: 30mm/s Amount of slower layers: 4 Infill: Infill pattern: Grid Line distance: 3mm Infill overlap: 20% Infill layers: 0 Support: Enable support: Check Placement: Everywhere Overhang angle: 30° X/Y distance: 0.7mm Top distance: 0.2mm Bottom distance: 0.2mm Stair step height: 0.5mm Join distance: 0.7mm Area smoothing: 0.6mm Use towers: check Pattern: Grid Line distance: 1.5mm Platform adhesion: Type: Brim Brim line count: 10 (up to 20, depending on the model’s height) Other 3D printing recommendations: Outer Shell Speed - 20mm/s and Support Speed - 40mm/s settings apply to avoid model deformation. Apply other settings by default.
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