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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/05/2019 in all areas

  1. One change in the printer that didn't get full attention is that we are re-designing the deprime routines. This part of the software structure has become a mess over time and creates some of the long running problems where the filament makes unexplained moves at the end or start of a print. As a user you won't notice too much from this restructuring but for us software engineers it makes the code easier to maintain. One visible change we made is that the filament parking location moved about 10cm up and is now located outside the print core at a visible location in the bowden tube. Advant
    3 points
  2. Most silicones I have seen can withstand 200°C, and up to 260°C for a very short while. But molten nylon is likely to be too viscous at this temperature: more like thick sirup instead of water. You would have to inject it at very high pressures and speeds (which would deform or damage the silicone). It will also be very difficult to get entrapped air out. And indeed, it will cool quickly upon touching the mould walls, making it difficult to fill the mould. You would need liquids that chemically cure, like ahoeben said. But then still make sure they are not too exotherm, as this may
    2 points
  3. And on its stand (stand printed in Ultimaker Pearl White PLA). The stand has a compartment for the battery pack/controller for the LED lights with a sliding cover. I think my wife might get tired of my brains spread around the house......
    2 points
  4. And here's the one I printed on my S5, full size.
    2 points
  5. New to 3D printing, but not to modelling (experienced with Rhino, ZBrush, C4D, among others....). This, however was a bit of a new experiment for me. Printing my own brain from a 3D MRI dataset. Always wanted my brain on my desk..... This first one I sent to Shapeways to get printed through laser sintering. Expensive, so I only got it printed 80% of actual size (and hollow). Figured it would nice with lighting inside, and I couldn't resist putting the lightbulb over it - for when I want to signal I had a good idea! I now have a Ultimaker S5, so I printed the second one fu
    1 point
  6. You can use a simple cube or a similar object, add it to the build plate, mark the object and select from the left menu the per model settings. There you can specify different settings where your cube overlaps with the original model. Hard to explain, but give it a try, you will see it is easy.
    1 point
  7. Not generally. At some point, it may get caught in the other material and create little holes that make the model not watertight. But my experience so far with the TPLA is that it has not created this issue for me since TPLA was released. So far, I have only used the UM TPLA. This is one material I really like and see no reason to go with other brands. Also, remember, PVA is just a pain to print with even in the best of circumstances. This is a link to a post that addresses an issue that may arise because of, well, several reasons:
    1 point
  8. Yes, this is a known problem. The "beta" version linked in this thread is ONLY compatible with beta 1. The version in the Marketplace is ONLY compatible with beta 2. I hope the version in the Marketplace will be compatible with the final release of Cura 4, but I can not guarantee.
    1 point
  9. I know what you mean, when printing the skirt the nozzle does often collect blobs that have been left earlier. I think the spiral skirt is possibly useful. What I do is normally space the skirt some distance from the model and also print at least 500mm of skirt so as to give me plenty of time to get in there and grab any crap that is being dragged around.
    1 point
  10. In general there are hardly any limits to the masterials you can use on an um2. probably the biggest limit is use of materials that need a very high temperature (fe peek..) In the case of Xstrand and other "filled" materials you better use a hardened nozzle, like a 0.6mm Olson ruby. Filled materials can also wear out you feeder, so if you want to use a lot of filled materials you may want to upgrade the feeder to a bondtech. http://olssonruby.com/ https://www.bondtech.se/en/product-category/upgrade-kits/ultimaker/
    1 point
  11. Probably true, although I can also imagine you want all buildings to have the same aesthetical appearance so the material does not distract from the concept.
    1 point
  12. Hi @Dan_Noviun , thank you for your post. @Stefania Dinea, perhaps you also have some good tips 🙂 1: Yes, you can. You can just upload multiple .STL in Ultimaker Cura and print them accordingly. 2: Would it be possible to add some form of marking in the bottom? Can you edit the models? What size would each building approximately be?
    1 point
  13. 1: you can drop as many items on the build plate as fits your printer. This is a good idea to combine smaller prints inmto one big one for overnight printing, so you utilise the machine fully. It's less logical for already long prints, as it adds risk, if the print fails you have multiple failed prints. 2: sure, cuttout a number on the BOTTOM of the print in CAD 3: not sure what you want to print from the picture, but the simple structures (the white building blocks?) could be a lot faster made traditionally in wood f.e. so you only print the complex parts?
    1 point
  14. Ok, here's another try.... Had to upload them to my website then link them here. This is the first one showing how I made it into a lamp. 3 different intensities depending on how "bright" my ideas are..........
    1 point
  15. Casting with molten materials is quite different from casting with materials that cure chemically such as epoxy or urethane. The molten material will tend to solidify quite quickly when touching a cold mold, thus blocking any further molten material from flowing into the molded cavity. I don't think this will work very well.
    1 point
  16. Hi, I just wanted to inform you that NylonG is back in our marketplace 🙂
    1 point
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