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Hi all, I've published a new plugin in the Marketplace, available for Cura 4.0 (Beta). It allows you to search and import STL files from Thingiverse without having to go do the actual website. Functionality is limited now, but eager to hear feedback on what to add next. Note that this plugin was build in my spare time, it is not affiliated or sponsored by Ultimaker or Thingiverse. Chris

Earlier, I began printing in PETG, and my first prints got successively better, till little parts of the prints I made were clear enough for me to hold against a screen and see the details through it! but no more. I was printing little 1cm cubes, and I began noticing that the issue lies in extrusion...lines? Essentially, little bubbles between the extrusion lines were left behind, even after dialing in my settings to the best of my ability. I believe ironing may be the solution here, but therein lies the issue. Cura only supports ironing on exposed upper surfaces. I believe it should be an option, and not hard to add a little check box to "iron everything". it should come with a warning that it will slow down prints immensely, but after spending 3 hours on a 1cm cube in an attempt to get it a little clearer, I think the feature can stand on its own. I'm not sure it will make things clerar, but I'd say there's a decent chance, and some extra heating on the top of every layer may actually help strengthen prints by removing fracture points and ensuring better layer adhesion, in any case. another option would be the ability to list which layers should be ironed and a checkbox for whether to include the entire layer or just exposed faces. I know a few people that wanted to iron only a couple layers.

I once tried melting PLA together with this tool. It worked fairly straight forward: cut both filament ends in a 90° angle, put them in the guides, and keep them in place with two fingers. Heat a knife in a bunsen burner, and insert it in-between both ends. A soldering iron should also work. Slide the ends towards the knife or soldering iron, let them melt, remove knife/iron, and push molten ends together. Keep a while until cool. This goes easier than describing it. But then I had to cut off the inevitable flanges and smoothen these out with a cutter knife or Dremel-like tool. It worked well, but it takes so much time that it isn't worth the effort. But this technique could be usefull if you want a vase or toy with colors that change over and over, on a single nozzle printer. So, now I use these ends for atomic pulls, like kmanstudios and several other people here. If you have kids, you could soften these pieces, and make toys out of it, or wrist bands, etc.

For PVA, you can fuse it. Or, if sufficiently short, can dissolve in water and add a bit of isopropyl to it for a very nice slurry for print adhesion. Other filaments can be fused as well. You just have to make sure that it is not: 1. Burned and made hard. It does have to bend and B) It maintains a proper diameter so it will travel through the bowden tube easily. This also goes for PVA If memory serves me correctly, there are several devices that can be found on the interwebby for doing this, or at least help with the process. I just usually keep some of the filament ends to assist with hot and cold pulls.

I would turn off retract before outer wall. It probably oozed a bit during travel moves and then underextruded on the pillars. For something like this, you are a lot better off not printing it as one piece. Not only would you have a heap of print time and PVA but you could get a lot better quality pillars. If you designed this yourself then you can make the pillars slot into place and add a dab of glue.

Aha, I see it now. so "within infill" will only consider the start and end point if it's "infill" but not in between. That's why once I was printing a spring, it travels across the whole spring only if I set to "within infill". Thank you again for explaining this. 🙂

Hello @neotko, it's not the fact that it combs on the infill when you use that mode that is the problem. The problem with that mode is that it is unaware of where the part's walls and skins are and so will happily cross a skin region (dribbling as it goes).

So i made my first DualPrint STL-File by my self.

played with some manual gcode. yes, this works, at least somewhat. printed in PETG. the clouds are in the print, and are all the same shape, so it is either a retraction setting in the model, or due to the model's shape and settings. they are, however, not just uniform shapes, leasing me to believe taller prints may not suffer from it as much.

As for the flow sensor. We (the Mark2 crowd ) almost finished development for an external flow sensor for the UM2+ including firmware integration. Mechanically it fits to the UM3, but connecting to electronics and ofc firmware integration is a different story ...

We're working on the firmware, this was outside of the scope of this file sharing a year after the Ultimaker 3 was released. It requires a little more time to prepare, but we'll keep you updated about the progress and planning when this is more clear.

How much work would it be to add a pdf drawing of some kind to the parts? This could be a great help for users who want to order parts at their reseller.

How about the firmware though?