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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 6 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  3. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  4. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  5. 3 points
    Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
  6. 3 points
    Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support. If you try it out, please post feedback on this thread or open an issue at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues. You can find the release at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Remember, all my builds are provided with no warranty whatsoever. That said, I try to fix issues where I can.
  7. 3 points
    The sidebar plugin will always have to be updated for new versions of Cura. It "patches" specific parts of Cura, and when Cura is changed those patches don't work anymore and have to be redone. I do think there are still good reasons to prefer the sidebar implementation over the floating panels, so I will release an updated version of the plugin at some point, but there are some complicating factors at the moment.
  8. 3 points
    Ha, I see what you did there with the blog post title...
  9. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  10. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  11. 2 points
    So.... what you're saying is... there is literally no reason NOT to go Mark2! Thank you.
  12. 2 points
    A new version of the plugin is required, see here:
  13. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  14. 2 points
    Fantasiewerte sind es nicht - es sind max. Werte, die mit Einschränkungen erreicht werden können. Da du so gern auf Autos, insbesondere eines Konzerns rumreitest, du kannst ja auch z.b. bei einem Auto, das max. Drehzahl 7000 U/min hat und dabei 230 PS entwickelt, die Drehzahl fahren und hast die Leistung. Das ist fakt. Ist Physikalisch berechenbar und auf der Rolle Verifizierbar. Aber käme jemand auf die Idee, mit 7000 U/min. mit seinem Auto dauerhaft durch die "Pampa" zu geigen? Vermutlich nicht - es sei den, der Sprit ist Ihm zu billig und er will seinen Motor "killen". Da genügt es schon, dass im Winter direkt nach dem Starten des Motors sowas zu probieren oder nach dem er richtig Heiß gefahren ist, einfach ausschalten. Aber die Drehzahl kann er und die Leistung hat er da dann auch. Wenn du soviel Bauraum brauchst, kommt es, wie @DirgDiggler, schon versuchte, dir zu erklären, auf dein Bauteil an. Manchmal, je nach Bauteil genügt ja schon 45 Grad drehen, aber da hier keiner Weiß, wovon du redest, wird da nichts konstuktives bei "rumkommen"... Theoretisch wäre auch die Kamera abmontierbar, was auch noch mal in Y die max. Länge etwas weiter ermöglichen würde, wenn man das beschriebene nachvollzieht. Gruß, Digibike
  15. 2 points
    I am not really a fan of browser-based GUIs, because that leaves you with an additional variable that you are dependent on but have no control over: the browser. Here are a few examples. Firefox was excellent until one day they changed the whole UI and concept, after which it broke all add-ons and became useless for 80% of its users. This broke a lot of people's workflow. Advanced users - like most people here are - tend to install a lot of add-ons in their browser, which may create additional dependencies and trouble. Some people - or some of these add-ons - may disable java, javascript, flash, silverlight, active-x, cookies, external fonts, third-party images, right-click functions, pop-up functions, resize-functions, and whatever else. If you have a good but not very common browser, like Pale Moon (=a Firefox derivation that has kept the old GUI-concept with menubar and statusbar), then this is often not recognised by the server. And then the server messes-up its webpages by *assuming* stupid things, for example that I have a micro-screen of 320x240 pixels instead of my real 1920x1080 pixels. So it sends me garbage instead of standard HTML: it sends fonts of 5cm high, so only a few lines fit on my huge screen. The bigger the organisation, and the more they are specialised in communication (e.g. news-sites and newspapers), the worse this gets, and the less they communicate. A lot of modern browsers even mess-up perfectly valid and simple standard HTML, which by design should reflow automatically in the available window. The browser should take the default font-settings if not specified, without changing them. But they don't. For example Google Chrome Mobile rescales some paragraph's font-sizes (sometimes making it larger, sometimes smaller), but not other paragraphs. And some browsers refuse to reflow text, so it falls off the screen. So you can't even limit yourself to old-school 1995's HTML and forms, because even these break today. You don't want that kind of trouble in a slicer GUI. Cloud-based computing is even worse: then you become dependent on a very unstable variable: the internet/network, coming with all its interruptions and its hazards (virusses, spyware, interception, industrial espionage...). It is unusable while moving (train, plane) or in remote areas: even Germany has no internet in lots of its eastern rural areas. And the data going over their monthly limit, and you going over your budget. Also, this creates GDPR and similar legal problems. So I prefer independent standalone applications installed on and running on the local computer. One application per function. Preferably with all user-settings stored in the same directory as the main program, or a subdirectory "user-settings". Not splattered all over the harddisk in unaccessible directories. So that it is portable. Although of course all programs should use generic and standard datafiles for smooth data-exchange. I am aware that my view may not be "politically correct", but this has proven to work best (for me).
  16. 2 points
    @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  17. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  18. 2 points
    Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy útil y está todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  19. 2 points
    There is a plugin in the marketplace that puts the sidebar back in the semi old stile it was.
  20. 2 points
    You're welcome, we're happy to help where we can. I'm happy you managed to perform the XY calibration. The flow sensor did not trigger because it is in the feeder, not the print head. Even though it was not printing, that is because it was retracted too far. Not because it was not feeding any filament. So the flow sensor/ feeder was working correctly, it just received the wrong command that made it retract too much prior to the calibration. Hope this helps, and also gives you some more insight in how the flow sensor works 🙂 Not entirely relevant but perhaps interesting to know: The flow sensor is not activated during the first 2 layers of a print because of small height differences and changing pressure in the nozzle could easily result in false positives. It is activated from the third layer, where the flow became more consistent/predictable. At layer 3, when something is preventing a proper flow/feed of the filament, it will trigger then. This should still be fast enough to prevent any big problems and reduce the loss of time to a minimum.
  21. 2 points
    My understanding is that there are many grades of aluminum but only MIC6 grade is flat and stays flat. But after you heat it and cool it for months it starts to warp. Worse than the glass. ALSO the aluminum wasn't for PLA or most other materials - only a few of the new materials work better on aluminum. I could be wrong about these things - I'm really not an expert. Ultimaker doesn't like to release something unless it works very very well and consistently. I think they have learned their lesson about announcing things early.
  22. 2 points
    Gr5 Not to be argumentative and yet; it is “highly” probable and very likely that the percentage of owners/end users and businesses active on this forum is a token percentage; who knows; maybe it’s 0.1% which would equal 100% based on your sampling. Furthermore; I personally speak with a couple USA distributors that without reservation share that they too have the same trouble getting element of urgency support as such attempt as able to satisfy the customer in house. Having shared this; I too feel that the Ultimaker Team is far less connected to the end user, particularly when there is an issue than they want all to believe.
  23. 2 points
    Right now, that's how Ultimaker Cura behaves. I have an alternative implementation of the wall gap filling in my Cura releases that doesn't shake your printer to death. My releases (which can be installed alongside the standard Cura) can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Sorry, only Windows and Linux are currently supported.
  24. 2 points
    GR5 I do not want to offend you, but it seems to me that you are not pursuing a good goal - to say that one is better than the other, and give an example of the testing that was. You are an adult and should understand that these are two different approaches to cooling. I will explain to inexperienced people (like you) UM2 (which has been tested) uses cooling on one plate, that is, 1 nozzle through this plate heats the other nozzle. DXU uses a separate cooling system for each nozzle. There is a separate radiator. Such a system costs UM3 and S5, and the temperature of the first or second nozzle is not connected to each other. I think for a full understanding, you can just say that the cooling system costs from UM3 for cooling radiators I recommend Sunon fans Gm0502PEV1 selected 1 means flow rate 1 strongly 3 weakly there is also a fan Sunon 1 cm thick but pay attention to 1 at the end. And yes, I am very grateful to everyone who worked on the project MARK2 and DXU for the work done and the work.
  25. 2 points

    Version 1.0

    2,890 downloads

    During my spell working in the Art department on 'Avengers Age of Ultron' I was asked by the production designer to build a prop to help dress the interior set of 'Stark Towers' The model was to show the new section of tower that replaced the damaged section from the original film. As I only had 4 weeks to build it (including 3d modelling) we needed to simplify the design a bit, hence the lower portion being in laser cut acrylic. Using my trusty Ultimakers I think I pulled off the desired effect, even if it only appeared in the movie for less than a second!
  26. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    9,687 downloads

    The original dodecahedral kinetic sculpture by Stijn van der Linden a.k.a. Virtox. Made of five nested dodecahedra, each one is limited to rotate around its own axis. It was printed with dual extrusion on an Ultimaker 3 with water-soluble PVA support material.
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    I am glad it was working for you, thanks for the feedback.
  29. 1 point
    Easy, i just unroll the amount Cura tells me to use, plus an extra Mtr that goes into the bowden tube. And if you miss, the printer detects your out of filament so the print isn't ruined.
  30. 1 point
    I can't answer your questions about breakaway, as I never used it. But concerning PVA-regulations: if you can not legally dissolve it and flush that waste-water down the drain, then maybe you could legally pour it over old newspapers, let dry, and throw away these newspapers? Then it does not pollute rivers. Very often old paper is recycled separately, this is the preferred option. But in our city it is also allowed to throw it in the regular "rest-section" of trash, because it makes it easier to burn that rest-section. See your local regulations. Or make papier-maché from it (=mix of old paper, water and wood glue until it is a clay-like paste), and use that to mould artwork? Or let the kids make art and toys with it? (But check the skin-safety first and let them wear gloves.) This might be a temporary and legal workaround until you get the other issues solved?
  31. 1 point
    sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips. Actually #9 is the most common problem and takes second to fix but you could have issues 4 through 9 as well. Unlike sketchup, most cad programs don't let you do ANY of these errors (#4 through #9): https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ Follow the above link and read all that. It looks like a lot but it's actually pretty simple and straightforward. Also in the future - for next time - I'm told that when using sketchup always use these 2 plugins: cleanup3 (may be 4 now) Solid inspector. Both of these plugins remove any problems with the model unseen by the eye and turn it into a solid model.
  32. 1 point
    Glad you are laughing, but I'm not an Ultimaker employee, so I don't get those logs. Neither do most people on this forum. Did you modify the Cura 4.2.1 files in any way (eg to install the Creawsome mod)? Or have you done so in the past? Creawsome mod is now integrated into Cura. I'm guessing you have tried the "Backup and reset configuration" button and restarted Cura? Something to try is to press the "Open configuration folder" button. Close Cura, and then remove all the files from the configuration folder, but leave the empty folder in place. Then restart Cura.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    @ultradryan If it's this issue, the upcoming 4.2 release will fix this.
  35. 1 point
    A new plugin is joining the plugin family! The CATIA plugin comes basically with the features you know from the others (if you had a chance to use them before).[1] The plugin can be easily downloaded and installed on my website. You can find a very basic checklist of what needs to be done here: https://thopiekar.eu/cura/cad/catia/ Enjoy and happy designing! -------------------------------------------- [1] https://thopiekar.eu:5443/cura-cad-integration/CuraCatiaPlugin/commit/9413a9961f0782a152b9bd878adcb23ade342cbb --------------------------------------------
  36. 1 point
    HiHo Filmpalast Wenn du mit PLA Druckst kannst du einfach auf die saubere Glasplatte drucken, das haftet sehr gut. Du könntest die Anzahl der Wandlinien auf 2 Reduzieren, das würde dir zeit sparen. Kann aber je nach dem dazu führen, dass du Artefakte vom Infill bekommst. Welchen Düsendurchmesser verwendest du denn? Ich kann dem @UbuntuBirdy nur zustimmen, druck lieber Langsam und nimm die maximalen Vorteile dadurch mit. - Weniger Druckerverschleiss - Schönerer Teile - Weniger Fehler Denn du wirst bald feststellen, dass nicht die Teile das schöne sind, sondern das selber machen ^^. Das musste ich auch erst lernen. Ich verwende für meine Modelle meistens Cinema4D, das ist nicht explizit dafür gedacht. Deswegen für dich ehr ungeeignet, auch wenn es sehr intuitiv ist. Grüsse zpm3atlantis
  37. 1 point
    Hi Daniel, this thingy doesn't seem to be a regular part of the printhead, as listed in the parts list (pages 11 - 14) UM3_Parts_Manual.pdf It looks like broken off another part. From shape and size, I'd guess it belongs to the connector of the print head cable (the small tab that locks the connector in it's socket). But that's only a guess. Greetings
  38. 1 point
    Hello! I'm fairly new to 3D Printing, building from a kit I've learned waaaaaaay too much about everything 😛 I've been learning Fusion 360 and fancied making a Mario Kart trophy. I found a really nice star medal on thingiverse so remixed it into it's own trophy with stand. I then thought I'd try some gold spray paint on the star. Never used spray paint before and laid it on a little too thick. That's fine though. Doing things wrong when learning is OK 🙂 Here is the thingiverse link: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3591947
  39. 1 point
    @ahoeben Why make a fix for something that can be made correct the first time. I think a good compromise will be an "Easy" and "Advanced" layout. "Easy" for all people who like shiny and basic look with three click print setup. "Advanced" for all engineers that needs to get thinks done!
  40. 1 point
    While a print was running, noticed the following on the display (see attached) Print finished without issue and the display was correct after a reboot. Printer is on latest firmware.
  41. 1 point
    Hi, the information in the post is not reversed. It is possible that 'old' glass plates show smaller differences because we have optimized the manufacturing process some months ago which provided us with flatter glass plates but also bigger differences between the two sides. So it is possible that you have been using the other side and not run into any problems. If your adhesion has been fine, I would recommend to just stick to your existing workflow. For new glass plates, I would recommend to make sure you are using the correct side. Hope this helps!
  42. 1 point
    Hello, Je vais supprimer les post dupliqués 😉 Pour ton problème il y a des options dans Cura (sous mesh fixes) qui ont des effets sur ce genre de soucis. Le mieux c'est d'avoir un bon fichier STL dès le départ, il faut que l'objet soit un solide, ton logiciel c'est sketchup? Il est pas top pour les STL pour l'impression 3D.
  43. 1 point
    Insert a box in the jaws of the model. Then use 'per model' settings to tell it to print as support. Make sure you turn off the support for the main model though or it will put support where it always does.
  44. 1 point
    Den kompletten Cura Ordner (mit darin liegenden unter Ordner) kopieren, und am bestens falls der bei deinen neuen PC schon erstellt wurde erstmal komplett löschen (bei geschlossenen Cura natürlich), dann den Ordner von deinen alten PC rein kopieren Und keinesfalls die Dateien von 3.5 in Ordner 3.6 kopieren/verschieben, das macht Cura automatisch beim ersten start und nimmt dann Änderungen vor die durch der Versions Upgrade nötig sind.
  45. 1 point
    Si c'est une Ultimaker 2, il est possible que ça vienne de l'isolateur Teflon, si elle a beaucoup d'heures au compteur ou que tu as beaucoup imprimé à haute température il a pu se dégrader. Tu peux jeter un oeil ici pour le changement: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/22188-how-to-replace-the-tfm-coupler Pour voir si il est abimé il faut le bouger. Tu peux tester avec un bout de filament pour voir si ça coince un peu ou pas.
  46. 1 point
    so these settings doesn't have effect on "flow rate" at all, these are indications for the flow sensor to compensate, how to interpret what actually happens? Because it's set to 90% by default and I really like to have control over settings, but here, I'm puzzled. Your description is good, but "you "simply" pre compensate for this factor" is not clear.
  47. 1 point
    And my first real agisoft scan and print. I spent a few hours cleaning this up but didnt really need to. Only one lace was messed up and the logos. The rest was cosmetic. And a the sole is simplified because i lost interest as it was only a test.... Cute Airmax 95, my left one. Heard some weird grinding sounds from the head during this one so glad to see it came out ok!
  48. 1 point
    This one, btw: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/3D-Prnter-Power-For-Ultimaker-2-UM2-Extended-Power-Supply-3D-Printer-Parts-24V-15A-Top/32707066340.html Works for one year without issues now.
  49. 1 point
    At this moment i can say that i did a succesfull transformation of my UM2 Just a little review of the work done. After reading about the magical magnetic changer, i knew i wanted one. My base was a good working UM2 which was converted to the +. Very good and reliable machine. But ofcourse, no second extruder.... As soon as the project was "released", i printed the parts, put the magnets in, and mounted everything with the old UM2 head + feeder. Then i had some problems, the second head was to high. Immediatly i was supported, and got a spacer to print, which i did, after that it theoreticaly worked. But, the old UM2 head + feeder just did't cut it, feeder skipping, bowden blocked, bwaa, ordered an extrusion upgrade kit, and mounted that, what a joy, no more worries with the feed + nozzle. Electricaly, i also ordered the Mark2 board + cables, no mess with cables, and, total control over the fans off the second hotend. The first prints gave me troubles, with out of area messages and stopped prints. Turned out to be a Cura problem. (or at least, i found a workaround for this issue) My final verdict: If you have a UM2, and want a second head (who doesn't?) this is the way to go! Play safe, order the mark2 board, use a original UM2+ extrusion upgrade kit, and good quality magnets. (900grams pulling force, these are some strong magnets!) And, to all the founders, contributors and beta testers, i can't tell you all how happy you guys make me. Support at the right moment, you got me true here. It feels like having an (even better with more possibilies) UM3, but for a much lower price.
  50. 1 point
    Yes it's more complicated. First of all it's in mm/minute so just divide by 60 to get mm/sec. example: 100mm/sec is feedrate of 6000. Feedrate is the requested speed for ALL 4 AXES. It's an old term for old CNC and other machines e.g. milling machines and lathes. It is used because certain materials can be cut at certain feed rates. Anyway - back to 3d printing. It is the requested speed for all 4 axes (X,Y,Z,E) so if you then do a movement in only one axis that axis will go at that speed but is constrained by the max speed for that axis. Also movement is constrained by max jerk setting and by acceleration for that axis. If you make a movement using multiple axes (most often you move X,Y and E at the same time) Marlin will move linearly. It won't move all axes at max speed because then you wouldn't get a straight smooth movement. You want the E axis to speed up at the same time as you speed up the other 2 axes and so on. So the actual movement speed may be slower but Feedrate is the desired speed. On the control panel for UMO and UM2 you can go into TUNE menu and adjust the requested speed by a certain percentage. Marlin will multiply this by the gcode feedrate to get a REQUESTED speed. The actual speed may be lower, again due to acceleration or max speed on any of the axes that are moving. It's rare for the Z axis or the E axis max speed to restrict the actual speed. Usually the X and Y axis are the axes going as fast as possible (at the requested feedrage). So most people think of this as the X and Y speed but in reality the "F" parameter controls all 4 axes.
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