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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi everyone, Thank you for all the time and energy you invest in sharing your messages here, trying to share your perspective with others. I like to think that this all comes from the same place; because we care, because we believe in Ultimaker and because we feel frustrated with the existing situation. This can be read in between the lines of several of the recent messages. Let's not allow this care or frustration to turn our efforts where we try and help each other into a scenario where we are opposite of each other, head to head. From day one Ultimaker has been aware of the bugs introduced by this firmware and after carefully collecting feedback of the exact size and impacts of these bugs our firmware team has been working on a fix. I would be lying if I said it was not taking long, that is painfully true. But merely the metric of time does not imply nothing is being done. Quite the opposite, we do not permit ourselves anything less than a reliable and useful release of new firmware, which takes time to build and test. As I stated previously in one of my messages in this thread; if you have an Ultimaker S5, our sales partner in your local region should be able to roll back to the previous firmware version. The Ultimaker would need to be shipped, but shipping should be covered by warranty. To be sure, check with your reseller in your region. I would only recommend to do this if the issues you're dealing with leave you in an unworkable situation, otherwise, I would recommend to have a little bit more patience until the new firmware is released. For an Ultimaker 3, instructions are shared in an earlier message how you can roll back firmware yourself. You can read the instructions before executing this operation to determine if this looks like something you are capable of doing. If not, I would also not recommend going down this path. We know, the only real good solution would obviously be new firmware. This is being worked on. Now as a final note, this is a thread where we try to help each other with firmware issues. We help to see if any logged issues can be solved by a temporary workaround and by sharing updates about firmware developments. I urge everyone to stay on topic. Off topic posts will be moderated.
  2. 7 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  3. 6 points
    Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  4. 5 points
    Hi everyone, I'm also from Ultimaker, also not a firmware engineer but I've been busy trying to collect more information about this uncomfortable situation. If you have read through the past 9 or 10 pages you should know we're very much aware of the issues and are working on a fix. In a previous message I explained that the worst thing we could do now is release a fix for the existing firmware which contained other bugs or does not fix what it should. That is why we're thoroughly testing the new version and it takes longer than any of us wants. The outcome should be a version that we can all trust and reliably use. We're working hard to make that real. A previous version we built and tested did not pass our testing entirely so we choose not to release it. We're almost ready to test a newer build version which, if all goes well, we should be able to release rather sooner than later. But first, it needs to be tested as well. No one would benefit from any unnecessary delays and we also want everyone to get back to reliable and satisfactory 3D printing as soon as possible. So as Nallath says, 'We're working on it as best we can'. Hopefully, with a little bit of patience, we'll have a new version out soon. If there are any relevant updates, I'll share with you via this thread. Thank you for your time and patience so far, it is deeply appreciated. And our sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused.
  5. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  6. 5 points
    First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more complex. The "Tokah-Cola' bottle was spurred by all the news about beverage companies trying to figure how to make and market CBD infused beverages. So, I thought this would be a nice little drink. These are the actual bottles with food coloring in the water.
  7. 5 points
    Since we only ever fill the threads with complaints and blames about bugs and errors, the positive should also be highlighted. Bringing the firmware from UM3 to the same code base was certainly not easy. And it was even more difficult to ensure a smooth update process without bricking the UM3. Therefore I would like to thank all developers and testers for their work! 👍 👏 Please keep up the good work.
  8. 5 points
    Humble administrator's garden was approved by UNESCO to be included in the world heritage list in 1997.
  9. 4 points
    Greetings! We’ve just released a new stable firmware for the Ultimaker S5 and the Ultimaker 3 (Extended). Use your Ultimaker printer with Ultimaker Cura 4.0 and an Ultimaker account, and you can make use of the remote ‘cloud’ printing feature. This lets you print from outside the realms of your local network with an Ultimaker 3 or Ultimaker S5 via your Ultimaker account. There are also some other features detailed in the blog. This release also introduces unified firmware, which makes it easier for our embedded team to support releases for the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker S5 together. Because of this, the installation process is a little different this time around. First, install the ‘stepping stone firmware’. When this is installed, update your firmware again to get to the latest version. For our S5 beta testers, you will also need to follow this process. Update instructions and release notes can be found here . When your printer is running firmware 5.2.8, you will be able to use the same .swu package for the UM3 and UMS5 to update firmware in future, reducing the risk of bricking your printer. Feel free to offer any feedback or comments in this thread.
  10. 4 points
    @Smithy I am kinda taking my time updating the post - however work in progress like everything else in my life right now. This is a perma-link but I will finish it under the following days -- I hope!! please feel free to add and comment if you want any other extra info https://www.dineadesign.com/2019/04/29/the-equilibrium-pavilion/ Here are some random photos that are also on my blog post for everyone who does't feel like reading. We turned it into a guest book on Sunday - thought it would be cool. after life of the pavilion in a shared office space in Helsingborg:
  11. 4 points
    hello classmates I want to show my recent work, a design and manufacture of the ultimaker 3 closing printer manufactured in the best acrylic, with the maintenance system of the liver pressure and the ionizer, it also has double top opening and touch screen for Control of the application on black background. I hope you like me
  12. 4 points
    Because I'm not a firmware engineer. So yeah, I reply to things I know something about. Which in this case was scanning & sensors. Or would you rather have me not reply at all or give you false / incorrect information? If you want a nice white lie, I'm more than happy to give it, but I assumed that this is not what you guys want / need.
  13. 4 points
    Here my project from the last weekend. A wall clock, controlled by an ESP8266 microcontroller. The ESP controls a LED stripe to show the current time which is fetched regularly via Wifi from an NTP server. The clock contains 6 segments for the ring and 60 parts for the minute indicators. Red shows hour, green the minute and blue for the seconds. Now I only have to find a nice place to put it on a wall.
  14. 4 points
    Because I can make a plugin that fixes some of your issues, but I have no say about the UI of Ultimaker Cura? Would you rather I don't make an alternative GUI? I don't understand responses like this. Note that what the plugin does would not have been possible with a plugin in previous versions of Cura. Ultimaker have made the Cura UI more plugin-friendly. Now you have a choice, even if you don't like the default option.
  15. 4 points
    I pushed v1.5 update on GitHub. It is mainly to replace the 19mm short bearing with a long one for better reliability. Changes: 1. Both X and Y bearings are now both 35mm long, same as the original UM2 printhead. It is more stable and reliable. The previous 19mm Y bearing had a few downsides: only misumi sells ones with sufficient build quality, they wear faster than long bearing, etc. To make proper space for the long bearing, I had to increase the X offset of nozzles from 18mm to 19mm, and the housing from 35x35 to 38x38. This resulted in 2mm less X print area but it is well worth it. 2. New fan shroud design. Blower fan changed from 3015 to 3510. Homemade aluminium cover by soda can at the bottom. The fan shroud can be printed with lower temp materials such as modified PC (heat resistance of 90C). 3510 12v fan is easier to source with more consistent stock. For those of you who already bought the 3015 fans, there is still a fan shroud variant to use 3015 with v1.5. 3. Hotend fan changed from 2510 to 3010. Not really for performance improvement. 3010 5v is much easier to source and cheaper. 4. Lever dock is simplified with only one tab. This gives the lever freedom to sweep back at full speed, not limited by the travel speed of printhead. Nozzle 2 falls back to it's position with optimal momentum. 5. BOM is hence modified with the new fans and bearing. The hotend, spring and bolts stays the same. 6. Firmware update for v1.5 moved to dedicated repository. I may or may not update the assembly images because people can still figure out how to assemble v1.5 based on the original images. I'll upload the jig and instructions for making the aluminium bottom cover later.
  16. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0

    5 downloads

    This is a suggestion to develop a new type of support that gows from the side of the printed part instead of the print bed. This could reduce material used for support and reduce print time. I have done two tests to compare, the design can be improved and i am sure a slincing algorythm can be added maybe in "Cura" to have Ramification support. I added Pictures and the models of two comparative parts. Let me know what you think and if you can develop the algorythm. This is totally open source suggestion i claim no right for. I only would like it to be named "Ramificaitons". (STL need to be rotated 90 degrees)
  17. 4 points
    Could you give it a try with the following settings? We had some good results with these: Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 40 Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3
  18. 3 points
    We’ve just released a beta of Ultimaker Cura 4.1, and we’ve added some improvements based on your feedback: - Collapsible panels introduced in the new interface are now completely draggable and can be positioned anywhere on the screen - Badge notifications have been added to the Ultimaker Marketplace so you know when your packages need to be updated - You can now add separate brims to prime towers - We’ve also made some stability fixes with the monitor page Find the update blog here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52884-try-new-3d-printing-software-features-in-ultimaker-cura-41-beta Help us out by downloading today, testing, and logging any feedback in this thread or on GitHub for us to integrate into the stable release. ***** Firmware 5.2 hotfix update! In other news, we released a hotfix firmware that addresses issues encountered in the firmware 5.2 release. We appreciate your patience and understanding while we’ve been investigating the issues that some of you reported. Download the hotfix here: ultimaker.com/firmware
  19. 3 points
    So we have been getting along brilliantly with our 'fleet' of Ultimaker printers (1x UMOriginal, 1x UM2 and 2xUM3) and ArchiCAD. The Custom Cutting Planes function is perfect for extracting model information to create facade studies straight out of ArchiCAD and into Cura with minimal alterations!
  20. 3 points
    A circle is never a real circle in 3D printing, it is built from polygons. So in your design software, you have to search for a setting with which quality you want to export the file as STL. When you choose a lower quality then you see each polygon if you choose a higher setting, then much more polygons are created to describe the circle and then it looks round as it should.
  21. 3 points
    As promised from my side, but nothing new for you here anymore, I got confirmed by a trustable source via mail, that you got heard already and people are trying to fix your problems asap. First of all, before I continue on some statements here, I have to say that I'm pretty much disappointed by the exposure done on the Ultimaker team by some people in this thread. I think the correct place to let someone know of your disappointment is not a public place like this. I could continue investing more of my energy into telling what I think (will do this later), but I want to make it short by saying: This way of blaming the whole company in public next to other community members, hobbyists and end users from the industry, is neither fair nor professional at all! Yes, you can be frustrated and you might be correct in many of your points, but are you really sure that it would have been better with a different manufacturer? Nevertheless, even if you thank the community for their help, blaming on Ultimaker makes me personally feel really bad. I'm really limited in time every day, but reading all the messages here made me getting active on this. Wanted to prevent this situation and wanted to calm you all down, but see that I missed my goal on some people here. Generally, have the opinion that many of you misunderstood the purpose of the forums. Resellers are responsible for local services and satisfaction. The forums are for announcements and a place created by Ultimaker for 3D printing enthusiasts to share their designs, problems and solutions. Yes, it is a place for support, but not too much on industrial level. Before something gets considered as a solution by Ultimaker it must be tested before (which should correspond with your industrial thinking, because a bad solution is like having no solution). Additionally, backward compatibility is never guaranteed to work since it is never (and probably will never be) tested (logically - since testing and doing downgrades now, would eat valuable time of an engineer to fix the actual problem). As I said before, what counts at the moment, is that a solution will be found soon. I'm sure Ultimaker as a company learned a lesson from that. (I'm allowed the say the following since I'm neither employed by Ultimaker nor making money with neither Ultimaker nor someone else right now.) Please, take some of your time, find a quiet and enjoyable place and think about how you communicate here. I know from my experiences with industrial (incl. automotive) companies that life can be stressing, but that's no excuse to be like this. Getting no answer from someone in time doesn't necessarily mean that someone is lazy and not doing her/his best to come back with a (real!) solution. Everyone who knows me can tell for sure that I could continue at this point and end up in a book. In any case, I'm convinced of Ultimaker products and trust their work! Thanks - Thomas Karl Pietrowski
  22. 3 points
    taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  23. 3 points
    solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramĂštres du menu, j'ai essayĂ© de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncĂšlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassĂ©e durant le print. cela gĂȘnait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  24. 3 points
    Google for "simple led circuits" and then select "images". This shows the setup. Always keep in mind: LEDs do need a resistor to limit current, otherwise they burn out! Usually the voltage over a LED is between 1.6V (old red LED) and 2.5...3V (blue and white LEDs). The recommended current for a nice illumination can go from 1mA to 10mA usually, depending on the LED. Don't come near the maximum current through the LED, always stay well below 50% of the maximum. So you need to look up the specs of your LED, or measure them: - normal voltage over the LED= Vled = ? - recommended current through the LED= I = ? What battery or charger are you going to use (I would recommend a 5V or 9V charger): - sourcevoltage = Vs = ? And then calculate the resistor as follows: 1) resistorvoltage = sourcevoltage minus LEDvoltage = Vr = Vs - Vled 2) resistor = resistorvoltage divided by LED current = R = Vr / I 3) power dissipation in the resistor = current multiplied by voltage over resistor = P = Vr x I Example: Imagine this are the specs: - Vled = 2.2V (=voltage over LED, from the specs of the LED) - Vs = 5V (source voltage, as usually found in chargers for charging USB devices or smartphones) - I = 5mA (=recommended current through LED in the specs) Then: 1) Vr = Vs - Vled = 5 V - 2.2 V = 2.8V 2) R = Vr / I = 2.8 V / 5mA = 0.56 kOhm = 560 ohm (take the closest available standard value) 3) P = Vr x I = 2.8 V x 5mA = 14mW (then add some spare: triple this value and take the next higher available resistor series, so it does not get hot: for example take a resistor of 250mW, a very common series) 4) add an on-off switch. That is all. You values may be somewhat different, but this is the principle. Basic scheme But do recalculate the resistor value according to the specs of your LED and your sourcevoltage or battery voltage!!! It may differ. Usually the long pin of the LED is the plus-terminal. And the pin connected to the "dish" inside the bulb is the minus-terminal. Usually, but check it. It only works if you connect the plus-terminal of the LED to the plus-terminal of the battery or source, not vice-versa. Plastic LEDs like these can be grinded or reshaped with a Dremel and cutting disk, as long as you don't hit the wires and chips (also not the very thin wire on top of the chip). But they do get fragile. I used to do that in model trains and cars, to make them fit. But don't cut/drill into modern white LEDs. Typical resistors. The color bands indicate the resistor value. Google for it. That is all there is to it. Use a battery charger with short-circuit protection. And/or add a mini fuse yourself. (All pictures via: "Google --> Images". Credits to the original photographers/designers.)
  25. 3 points
    Question: what nozzle diameter does your printer have? If I were to guess, I would say 0,015748". Is that a nice number to have all widths depend on? What is the wall width if use 3 extrusion thicknesses? 0,0472441". Do you really want to think in those numbers? 0.4mm and 1.2mm respectively sound like much more workable numbers. I have never seen a 3d printer that is based on imperial units. 3d printers are intrinsically based on metric units. This may be different from CNC machines, I don't know. But Cura is designed for 3d printers.
  26. 3 points
    I learned recently that the USA isn't using the Metric System due to pirates, even though it was officially placed in the law. The more you know, and how small events can have big effects! 😉 @MIO This forum is hardly the place to have that good old discussion about Imperial vs Metric and which system is best, and @alan-bc specifically mentioned that he wasn't looking to start a flame war about switching. This thread is about CURA, and if having the option of switching to Imperial units helps @alan-bc and other users in their everyday use of CURA and their UM printers, then I'm all for it. I have literally zero knowledge of the amount of work that coding such a thing would require, plus testing and such, but, from the user point of view, I would agree that it would be useful feature for those who are in countries that use Imperial units. After all, we can already chose the language and the currency units to use, and the software let me put it in French and the currency in $, for example, without a fuss.
  27. 3 points
    Hi everyone, thank you for all your messages and our apologies for any inconvenience the latest firmware may have caused for you. It is important to know that we take your troubles very serious and are working hard on making a new version that would be safe for everyone to use. When it is ready it will be tested, and then tested again, and then we'll make sure you will hear about it as soon as possible. There have also been a few suggestions to take this latest firmware down. While it is undeniable that it has caused some issues for some of our users, the full percent of users plagued by them is not that high as what may seem so in this thread. Higher than usual, sure. But there are (luckily) more users who remain issue-free. This may not mean much to you when you do have issues, but I wanted to elaborate on why it was not pulled offline yet. Unfortunately, releasing a newer, tested and stable version will take a little bit longer than originally shared (referring to an earlier communicated timeline of one week). There are a few things we can do in the meantime. If the issues you are having are creating an unworkable situation, it is probably wise to install an older firmware version. User @gr5 has shared instructions in this thread. While the instructions may not appear difficult for the experienced user, it can be a dangerous area to dive in if you've never done something like it before. You have to be ESD safe and there is risk of bricking your machine if you do it wrong. So if you are unsure, (or if you are sure you just do not want to do it yourself), we recommend getting in touch with your reseller. They definitely can install new firmware for you and return your Ultimaker to you. If you have an Ultimaker S5, unfortunately it is not possible to install new firmware yourself. Our sales partners can. Please get in touch with them if you prefer to have the previous firmware version installed. Since (almost) all Ultimaker S5s should still fall under warranty, there should be no additional costs. Some other tips that may have gone unnoticed: - I read that a Cura connect reset and factory reset may fix one or two bugs - If you are struggling with your XY calibration, make sure to manually push your filament in all the way before your print starts. The firmware retracts it too far which ruins your filament flow. - If I catch any more solutions, I will update this post accordingly. Again; our apologies for the inconvenience. Thank you @CarloK for the help you have been providing here. We're working on a solution and you'll all be the first to know when it is available.
  28. 3 points
    The Sidebar GUI plugin available from the Marketplace fixes most of your points.
  29. 3 points
    Hey all ! New here and to 3d printing in general, thought i'd post up one of my first semi succesful prints. Mostly came out ok, had some warpage on the bed because I thought I could get away with a simple brim and not a raft, which seems to almost never work on my Tevo Nereus. Also had several layer shifts, not sure how to fix that yet. Still learning. All in all its still functional and working great !
  30. 3 points
    It’s unfortunate to see this release has been causing issues for some users. Reported issues, including the ones in this thread have been all been noted and our firmware team is working on solutions as a priority. A hotfix is being prepared that we will release in the upcoming days. So far, the contents of this will include: A fix for updating when the printer has no network connection Extrusion issues with X/Y calibration procedure Correcting incorrect screen orientation after reboot
  31. 3 points
    Hello Community I think I have a quite simple question but unfortunately no answer. Is it possibel in CURA 4.0 to modify the color in the mode "Preview" => "Line type" => "Color Scheme"? Currently the Top/Bottom-Layer is represented in a kind of light yellow. The infill is represented in let me say a kind of less light yellow color. As we are all aware about the fact that millions of colors are available I do not understand why this extremly similar colors have been choosen for representation by CURA. E.g. why not follow the PRUSA Slicer approach? I really looking forward for an answer. Kind regards, Carsten Schröder Horneburg/Germany Cura Approach: PRUSA Slicer Approach:
  32. 3 points
    I don't like the new interface, for the same reasons I highlighted on my post in the beta thread. Thanks a lot to @ahoeben for the sidebar plugin! Now CURA becomes easy and simple to use again.
  33. 3 points
    Ha, I see what you did there with the blog post title...
  34. 3 points
    Je m'en sert pour le maquettisme ferroviaire au 1/160Úme. Par exemple pour le reproduction de ma maison ou pour des ouvrages maçonnés. Résultat sympa.
  35. 2 points
    Again; Ultimaker has 400 employees. There is no hidden conspiracy that "holds me back". It's simply that there is not enough time in a day, even if I'd work 16 hours, to keep track of all the things that are going on. So could you pretty, pretty please stop pretending like this is some nefarious thing that is going on (or that is the cause of incompetence). Because it's not. You keep saying that you're doing this to help, but it's doing the exact opposite. To be honest, I don't really believe that you're trying to help. Because it's not the first time I've called you out on this and told you that it's doing the exact opposite. A fair part of what you say is simply not true. There are no distributors of Ultimaker in the US. We have resellers, but that's it. So I'm really wondering who you talked. I know for a fact that delays and releases are always communicated with resellers. But to take some more specific points; 1. You got compensated for this with something of greater value. Also, would you rather have had something that didn't work? Because if that's the case, I'm more than happy to send you the aluminum plate. I'll pay for the shipping myself, but then I don't want to hear you complain about it anymore (Either you not getting it or it not working at all). 2. These issues were fixed within 2 (!!) months. Good luck getting any of that in any other industry. And don't say stupid things like "But it would neve have happened there", because that's a lie and you know it. This can happen everywhere, what matters is how you deal with it. 3. Which firmware updates bit you in the ass? This is the first one right? 4. Promised where exactly? I'm not aware of any such promise. 5. I've not seen any issues with the filament sensor so far. I've got it turned on and working fine. If you look at the forum, you're pretty much the only one with the issue. Now I do get that this sucks (especially with everything combined) but this kinda seems like a fluke. "Has Ultimaker offered prepaid shipping back to them for serving the issues" -> Nonsense. This is something we offer. Because ya know. It's the law. " if I had purchased an Apple product it would have been replaced" -> Same goes for Ultimaker. This is the primary responsibility of the reseller to do this. I understand why they don't want to because it costs them money, but that's what they are paid for. I'm getting the idea that your reseller is putting all the blame with Ultimaker ("Because they entrusted to you that they recommend other printers") whereas the blame is with them. " there are no field service technicians in place such" -> Again not true. All the resellers get mandatory training with regards to repair. So, you want to continue "fighting" this out in public? Because I'm more than able to show you that it's not as you describe it by a long shot.
  36. 2 points
    I was able to successfully convert my UM2 to a UM2+ then a UM2+ Mark2 with magnetic docking second head. Now I have hacked in the UM3 print head !. cool now I have a Mark2 system with quick change UM3 print cores ! I totally destroyed the UM3 print head PCB lol. I had to remove all IC's and resistors form the board, then I "hot wired" the CORE connections to the main cable header lol. LED's do not currently work, but they will soon show the active extruder, only 1 color though. Capacitive Z sensor is non operational since I am using the Original UM2 electronics coupled with Mark2 firmware. I started off by going off the deep end buying the UM3 electronics etc. then I found out that all I needed to do was use everything I already had. at first I wanted the autoleveling, RGB core LED's etc. Anyway, this is very simple to do if you don't mind killing a UM3 print head 😉 and already have Mark2 operational 🙂 Here is a quick video showing the Mark2 Docking sequence adjusted to hit the nozzle shift lever bracket. Mark2 Print core swap Enoy, Dave
  37. 2 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  38. 2 points
    Sure, here's my system directory. DuetSystemDirectory.zip
  39. 2 points
    If you use a 9V battery, and you put the LEDs in series, it will work with the same resistor value, but just give a bit less light. But usually I would prefer to recalculate the resistor: voltage over resistor = battery voltage minus first LED voltage minus second LED voltage. Vr = Vs - Vled1 - Vled2 For an educated guess, that would be: 9V - 2V - 2V = 5V over the resistor (as a crude order of magnitude). Use two identical LEDs. And then calculate the resistor, based on the recommended current through the LED. If it is a high-efficiency LED with low power-consumption, the current could be 1mA. Then the resistor would be: R = Vr / I = 5V / 1mA = 5KOhm If it is a medium efficiency LED, with a current of 5mA, it would be: R = 5V / 5mA = 1KOhm For a LED of 10mA: R = 5V / 10mA = 0.5KOhm = 500 Ohm. This value does not exist, so we take a nearby very common existing value: 470 Ohm, or 510 Ohm. For a very old LED, or a brighter LED that requires a bit more current of 20mA: R = 5V / 20mA = 0.25 KOhm = 250 Ohm. This does not exist, so we would take 240 Ohm or 270 Ohm. For the existing resistor values, Google for: E24 resistor series Among the images in Google, you will then also find the color codes. If you are not familiar with electronics, avoid very high power LEDs like those used in spots or in traffic- or billboard signs. These may get very hot and require special cooling and mounting features. Tiny low power LEDs like in keyboards, stereos, etc..., don't get warm if a correct resistor is used to limit the current to the recommended value. If you want to buy new LEDs, search for low power high efficiency LEDs, because: 10x less current = 10x longer battery life. Search for 1mA or 2mA LEDs, provided they give enough light for your purpose. This may sometimes be very hard to guestimate from the specs, so you may want to try various types. It is a long time ago since I bought LEDs myself, so I can't say what is on the market today. About 20 years ago a typical low power high efficiency LED of 3mm diameter consumed ca. 2mA, but that is 20 years ago... And LED-voltage was 1.65V for red LEDs, 1.9V for yellow, 2.2V for green. Hence my 2V guestimate, which is usually okay for red, orange, yellow, yellowish-green. However, blue, white, and "traffic green" LEDs (=blue chip with phospor on top) usually are around 3...3.5V. But different values exist. Look them up in specs of distributers like RS-components, Farnell, etc... Mr. Google is very helpfull today (credits to the original photographers): However, solder the wires, instead of wrapping. Or try these boards for experimenting: they are very handy, but watch out for short-circuiting wires: With this board you can try lots of different resistor values and LEDs in a short time. I used them a lot. Note: LEDs have virtually no internal current-limiting features: if you apply a too high voltage without external resistor, or if you short-circuit the resistor by accident, the current can get very high and immediately burn out the LED. Don't ask how I know... :-) So, *always* use a separate resistor for current limiting, and never rely on the very unpredictable internal resistance of batteries, power supplies, or LEDs. Further, when plying the leads, use a plier to grip the wire close to the LED, and bend it around the plier, on the side away from the LED. So don't put too much mechanical stress on the plastic housing of the LED. Pulling hard on the leads of tiny 1mm LEDs could cause them to break, since the plastic is not very strong. Here too, don't ask how I know... :-) These are a couple of very good educational Youtube videos on this subject: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bozb8t6d1Xk - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yo6JI_bzUzo - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfcgA1axPLo - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSpB3HivkhY This reply is a bit longer than I intended, but fortunately I can type very fast. Also, I realise this is a bit off-topic concerning 3D-printing, but I think it is close enough. It may also be usefull for people who want to modify their 3D-printers to mount some indicator LEDs in it. For example you could mount a LED on the bed heater or on the (cold side of) the print head and nozzle, to see when it is on. Carefully calculate resistor-values (Ohms) and power-ratings (Watt).
  40. 2 points
    Let me make clear i really appreciate the effort you put into such plugin. It probably takes a lot of time and it really adds value to Cura 4.0. But i try to make an statement to the Cura UI designers that are aiming for "easy" use instead of "advanced" / "practical" use. Again i appreciate your plugin and certainly will use it. Thank you for that.
  41. 2 points
    My understanding is that there are many grades of aluminum but only MIC6 grade is flat and stays flat. But after you heat it and cool it for months it starts to warp. Worse than the glass. ALSO the aluminum wasn't for PLA or most other materials - only a few of the new materials work better on aluminum. I could be wrong about these things - I'm really not an expert. Ultimaker doesn't like to release something unless it works very very well and consistently. I think they have learned their lesson about announcing things early.
  42. 2 points
    Il faut que tu sois entre les deux, la feuille ne doit pas ĂȘtre bloquĂ©, mais que tu sente que ça gratte. Et puis il faut qu'elle soit assez relevĂ© pour que tu puisse passĂ© la feuille. AprĂšs tu verra avec l'expĂ©rience, une couche trop Ă©crasĂ© = sous extrusion et la bourrage de la ligne. La matiĂšre sortiras comme elle peut. Et s'il n'est pas assez Ă©crasĂ© = dĂ©collement du matĂ©riaux. Des images sur google illustre mes propos. Je ne connais pas Alfawise, mais une fois ce rĂ©glage fait,n'hĂ©site pas pendant l'impression de la premiĂšre couche de peaufinĂ©/nivelĂ© manuellement le plateau. Pour un rĂ©glage plus poussĂ© tu peux utilisĂ© une cale mĂ©canique de 0.1 ou 0.2 et en fonction de ton pas moteur Z tu fait tes rĂ©glages. Perso je ne l'utilise pas. Et encore plus loin tu peut utilise un micromĂštre une fois que tu Ă  imprimĂ© un stl de nivellement. Un grand et un petit cercle du mĂȘme centre avec une ou deux largeur de ligne et tu peux les raccordĂ©es en croix, genre un "peace" mais avec un deux cercle au centre. La tempĂ©rature plateau n'est pas Ă  nĂ©gligĂ© comme beaucoup de chose en impression 3d. Je n'imprime que rarement du PLA, mais il me semble que si le plateau est trop chaud ça ce dĂ©colle. Contrairement Ă  l'abs. Une fois la premiĂšre couche maĂźtrisĂ©, il faut maĂźtrisĂ© la tempĂ©rature avec un bon dĂ©bit. Puis les rĂ©tractions, dĂ©placement et enfin la vitesse.
  43. 2 points
    @ultiarjan said he had the same problem and could see that the right core had retracted the filament quite a bit. The workaround was that when it starts printing with the right extruder, left the lever on the extruder and slide the filament in all the way and then let go. It seems to me you could even do that earlier on while it's printing with the left extruder.
  44. 2 points
    l'humidité dont il s'est chargé( surtout du PLA) sort sous forme de vapeur et fait des microbulles à l'impression... C'est encore plus flagrant quand j'essaie d'extruder des nouveaux filaments en PLA avec des débris de vieux prints broyés. La phase de déshydratation est essentielle, si elle est mal faite, on a du filament soufflé à la mode biscuit apéritif...
  45. 2 points
    Mise Ă  jour: GrĂące au scotch, j'ai enfin pu effectuer une impression complĂšte d'un support circulaire. La couche de maintient extĂ©rieur a tout de mĂȘme essayĂ© de se redresser mais j'ai pu la rabattre avant le prochain passage de la tĂȘte d'extrusion. (zone monocouche avec "fente") L'Ă©tat de surface me semble un peu bizarre; Trop de chaleur Ă  l'extrusion peut-ĂȘtre. Merci pour vos conseils en tout cas.
  46. 2 points
    Same thing here on my XY calibration with my UM3 after upgrade to firmware 5.2. I spent hours cleaning print cores thinking something was clogged. The only reason I wanted to do the XY calibration is to address all the other issues I was having after upgrading to "5.2 Stable". Apparently there is no way to roll back the firmware to 3.x without invalidating my warranty on this 2 month old unit. So I am patiently waiting for for firmware 5.3 so I can use my UM3 again. An official response from Ultimaker regarding this firmware upgrade and the plans to address what appears to be multiple issues would be greatly appreciated!
  47. 2 points
    Je suis passé sur la 4 j'ai pas de soucis dans la vue layer. C'est en effet en majeur partie une update cosmétique avec une nouvelle interface, au début j'aimais pas plus que ça, maintenant je m'y suis habitué.
  48. 2 points
    Quick tip: If instead of removing the folder named "4.0" you make the folder empty (so remove the files inside the folder, but leave the folder there), you will get a "clean" Cura 4.0 but leave your older Cura configurations in place for older versions of Cura to use.
  49. 2 points
    GR5 I do not want to offend you, but it seems to me that you are not pursuing a good goal - to say that one is better than the other, and give an example of the testing that was. You are an adult and should understand that these are two different approaches to cooling. I will explain to inexperienced people (like you) UM2 (which has been tested) uses cooling on one plate, that is, 1 nozzle through this plate heats the other nozzle. DXU uses a separate cooling system for each nozzle. There is a separate radiator. Such a system costs UM3 and S5, and the temperature of the first or second nozzle is not connected to each other. I think for a full understanding, you can just say that the cooling system costs from UM3 for cooling radiators I recommend Sunon fans Gm0502PEV1 selected 1 means flow rate 1 strongly 3 weakly there is also a fan Sunon 1 cm thick but pay attention to 1 at the end. And yes, I am very grateful to everyone who worked on the project MARK2 and DXU for the work done and the work.
  50. 2 points
    I just looked at some of the design files for this - really good work. Quite impressive. Instructions for the feeder are fantastic. There are some clever innovations in this. I love that you included a bom with links to where to get the parts. This just seems very thorough. I see also that you included the firmware both compiled and git source code (so one can see the changes you had to make). Very impressive.
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