Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 10 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 6 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  3. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  4. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  5. 3 points
    Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
  6. 3 points
    Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support. If you try it out, please post feedback on this thread or open an issue at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues. You can find the release at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Remember, all my builds are provided with no warranty whatsoever. That said, I try to fix issues where I can.
  7. 3 points
    The sidebar plugin will always have to be updated for new versions of Cura. It "patches" specific parts of Cura, and when Cura is changed those patches don't work anymore and have to be redone. I do think there are still good reasons to prefer the sidebar implementation over the floating panels, so I will release an updated version of the plugin at some point, but there are some complicating factors at the moment.
  8. 3 points
    Ha, I see what you did there with the blog post title...
  9. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  10. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  11. 2 points
    So.... what you're saying is... there is literally no reason NOT to go Mark2! Thank you.
  12. 2 points
    A new version of the plugin is required, see here:
  13. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  14. 2 points
    Fantasiewerte sind es nicht - es sind max. Werte, die mit Einschränkungen erreicht werden können. Da du so gern auf Autos, insbesondere eines Konzerns rumreitest, du kannst ja auch z.b. bei einem Auto, das max. Drehzahl 7000 U/min hat und dabei 230 PS entwickelt, die Drehzahl fahren und hast die Leistung. Das ist fakt. Ist Physikalisch berechenbar und auf der Rolle Verifizierbar. Aber käme jemand auf die Idee, mit 7000 U/min. mit seinem Auto dauerhaft durch die "Pampa" zu geigen? Vermutlich nicht - es sei den, der Sprit ist Ihm zu billig und er will seinen Motor "killen". Da genügt es schon, dass im Winter direkt nach dem Starten des Motors sowas zu probieren oder nach dem er richtig Heiß gefahren ist, einfach ausschalten. Aber die Drehzahl kann er und die Leistung hat er da dann auch. Wenn du soviel Bauraum brauchst, kommt es, wie @DirgDiggler, schon versuchte, dir zu erklären, auf dein Bauteil an. Manchmal, je nach Bauteil genügt ja schon 45 Grad drehen, aber da hier keiner Weiß, wovon du redest, wird da nichts konstuktives bei "rumkommen"... Theoretisch wäre auch die Kamera abmontierbar, was auch noch mal in Y die max. Länge etwas weiter ermöglichen würde, wenn man das beschriebene nachvollzieht. Gruß, Digibike
  15. 2 points
    I am not really a fan of browser-based GUIs, because that leaves you with an additional variable that you are dependent on but have no control over: the browser. Here are a few examples. Firefox was excellent until one day they changed the whole UI and concept, after which it broke all add-ons and became useless for 80% of its users. This broke a lot of people's workflow. Advanced users - like most people here are - tend to install a lot of add-ons in their browser, which may create additional dependencies and trouble. Some people - or some of these add-ons - may disable java, javascript, flash, silverlight, active-x, cookies, external fonts, third-party images, right-click functions, pop-up functions, resize-functions, and whatever else. If you have a good but not very common browser, like Pale Moon (=a Firefox derivation that has kept the old GUI-concept with menubar and statusbar), then this is often not recognised by the server. And then the server messes-up its webpages by *assuming* stupid things, for example that I have a micro-screen of 320x240 pixels instead of my real 1920x1080 pixels. So it sends me garbage instead of standard HTML: it sends fonts of 5cm high, so only a few lines fit on my huge screen. The bigger the organisation, and the more they are specialised in communication (e.g. news-sites and newspapers), the worse this gets, and the less they communicate. A lot of modern browsers even mess-up perfectly valid and simple standard HTML, which by design should reflow automatically in the available window. The browser should take the default font-settings if not specified, without changing them. But they don't. For example Google Chrome Mobile rescales some paragraph's font-sizes (sometimes making it larger, sometimes smaller), but not other paragraphs. And some browsers refuse to reflow text, so it falls off the screen. So you can't even limit yourself to old-school 1995's HTML and forms, because even these break today. You don't want that kind of trouble in a slicer GUI. Cloud-based computing is even worse: then you become dependent on a very unstable variable: the internet/network, coming with all its interruptions and its hazards (virusses, spyware, interception, industrial espionage...). It is unusable while moving (train, plane) or in remote areas: even Germany has no internet in lots of its eastern rural areas. And the data going over their monthly limit, and you going over your budget. Also, this creates GDPR and similar legal problems. So I prefer independent standalone applications installed on and running on the local computer. One application per function. Preferably with all user-settings stored in the same directory as the main program, or a subdirectory "user-settings". Not splattered all over the harddisk in unaccessible directories. So that it is portable. Although of course all programs should use generic and standard datafiles for smooth data-exchange. I am aware that my view may not be "politically correct", but this has proven to work best (for me).
  16. 2 points
    @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  17. 2 points
    It sounds like it's bricked. Please, do you know what version it is? I think it might show the version briefly on power up. You probably have the "stepping stone" version which was never meant to be used to print but meant to be used to upgrade to the next version. That version has this bug you describe. But if this is the absolute latest version that came out a few days ago, then it would be good to know this. How to unbrick:
  18. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  19. 2 points
    Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy útil y está todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  20. 2 points
    There is a plugin in the marketplace that puts the sidebar back in the semi old stile it was.
  21. 2 points
    You're welcome, we're happy to help where we can. I'm happy you managed to perform the XY calibration. The flow sensor did not trigger because it is in the feeder, not the print head. Even though it was not printing, that is because it was retracted too far. Not because it was not feeding any filament. So the flow sensor/ feeder was working correctly, it just received the wrong command that made it retract too much prior to the calibration. Hope this helps, and also gives you some more insight in how the flow sensor works 🙂 Not entirely relevant but perhaps interesting to know: The flow sensor is not activated during the first 2 layers of a print because of small height differences and changing pressure in the nozzle could easily result in false positives. It is activated from the third layer, where the flow became more consistent/predictable. At layer 3, when something is preventing a proper flow/feed of the filament, it will trigger then. This should still be fast enough to prevent any big problems and reduce the loss of time to a minimum.
  22. 2 points
    My understanding is that there are many grades of aluminum but only MIC6 grade is flat and stays flat. But after you heat it and cool it for months it starts to warp. Worse than the glass. ALSO the aluminum wasn't for PLA or most other materials - only a few of the new materials work better on aluminum. I could be wrong about these things - I'm really not an expert. Ultimaker doesn't like to release something unless it works very very well and consistently. I think they have learned their lesson about announcing things early.
  23. 2 points
    Gr5 Not to be argumentative and yet; it is “highly” probable and very likely that the percentage of owners/end users and businesses active on this forum is a token percentage; who knows; maybe it’s 0.1% which would equal 100% based on your sampling. Furthermore; I personally speak with a couple USA distributors that without reservation share that they too have the same trouble getting element of urgency support as such attempt as able to satisfy the customer in house. Having shared this; I too feel that the Ultimaker Team is far less connected to the end user, particularly when there is an issue than they want all to believe.
  24. 2 points
    Right now, that's how Ultimaker Cura behaves. I have an alternative implementation of the wall gap filling in my Cura releases that doesn't shake your printer to death. My releases (which can be installed alongside the standard Cura) can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Sorry, only Windows and Linux are currently supported.
  25. 2 points
    GR5 I do not want to offend you, but it seems to me that you are not pursuing a good goal - to say that one is better than the other, and give an example of the testing that was. You are an adult and should understand that these are two different approaches to cooling. I will explain to inexperienced people (like you) UM2 (which has been tested) uses cooling on one plate, that is, 1 nozzle through this plate heats the other nozzle. DXU uses a separate cooling system for each nozzle. There is a separate radiator. Such a system costs UM3 and S5, and the temperature of the first or second nozzle is not connected to each other. I think for a full understanding, you can just say that the cooling system costs from UM3 for cooling radiators I recommend Sunon fans Gm0502PEV1 selected 1 means flow rate 1 strongly 3 weakly there is also a fan Sunon 1 cm thick but pay attention to 1 at the end. And yes, I am very grateful to everyone who worked on the project MARK2 and DXU for the work done and the work.
  26. 2 points

    Version 1.0

    2,890 downloads

    During my spell working in the Art department on 'Avengers Age of Ultron' I was asked by the production designer to build a prop to help dress the interior set of 'Stark Towers' The model was to show the new section of tower that replaced the damaged section from the original film. As I only had 4 weeks to build it (including 3d modelling) we needed to simplify the design a bit, hence the lower portion being in laser cut acrylic. Using my trusty Ultimakers I think I pulled off the desired effect, even if it only appeared in the movie for less than a second!
  27. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    9,687 downloads

    The original dodecahedral kinetic sculpture by Stijn van der Linden a.k.a. Virtox. Made of five nested dodecahedra, each one is limited to rotate around its own axis. It was printed with dual extrusion on an Ultimaker 3 with water-soluble PVA support material.
  28. 1 point
    Hello, During the years the site has been getting better and better, so this is a good evolution. But I think it could still contain a bit more diagnostics manuals and tips and tricks that come back very often in the forum. For example: - A detailed list of all existing and well working bonding methods to the glass bed: the "official" glue stick, the official glue stick + wiping it with a wet tissue to egalise it, 10% wood glue in water, hairspray, my salt method (PLA only), 3DLAC, sheets, etc... With all their advantages and disadvantages. So that people can try them, and choose the one that works best. - A detailed list of possible causes of underextrusion, like the one gr5 has (ask him if you can reuse it). - Etc..., just all the things that keep coming back on the forum.
  29. 1 point
    I am glad it was working for you, thanks for the feedback.
  30. 1 point
    Vielleicht ist das das was du suchst? https://yop3d.de/rest-mengen-manager/
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
    Cura stores a configuration per version, so you can always go back to a previous version if a new version doesn't work for you. When there is no configuration folder for the version you are running (eg when you run Cura for the first time), Cura will see if there is an older configuration that it can copy over and upgrade so you don;t have to reconfigure everything. I think in your case it picked up a configuration from an older version that you did modify (you added a Creality CR10 definition). That old configuration points to a printer definition that does not exist in the new Cura. This causes an error. Removing the upgraded configuration will only result in having the same old configuration with the reference to the missing definition being copied over and upgraded again. By removing the contents of the folder, but leaving the empty folder in place, you trick Cura into believing there is a configuration for this version of Cura in place (there's just nothing configured). So this is the way to start fresh without copying an older configuration.
  33. 1 point
    Glad you are laughing, but I'm not an Ultimaker employee, so I don't get those logs. Neither do most people on this forum. Did you modify the Cura 4.2.1 files in any way (eg to install the Creawsome mod)? Or have you done so in the past? Creawsome mod is now integrated into Cura. I'm guessing you have tried the "Backup and reset configuration" button and restarted Cura? Something to try is to press the "Open configuration folder" button. Close Cura, and then remove all the files from the configuration folder, but leave the empty folder in place. Then restart Cura.
  34. 1 point
    attention à ne pas faire chauffer la cartouche sans la sonde de température (sans la sonde elle peut chauffer beaucoup trop fort et donc paf ça fait des chocapics)
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Are these diverters also printed in nylon? Or in another material (they don't look like nylon on the photo)? Could you keep us updated on how well they survive outdoors, and if there is any UV-degradation over time? We haven't seen very much outdoor applications on this forum.
  37. 1 point
    ha ok je n'avais pas remarquer ceci dans la GUI. Du coups problème résolue je reviendrait içi si je trouver un moyen d'envoyer la sortie sans passer par un fichier sa éviterais des opération inutile. Pour ma part je ne chercher pas récupérer le Gcode mais l'estimation de masse et temps renvoyer dans la l'invite de commande pour comparaison avec mes méthode de calcule. Mais comme je tester sur un grand nombre de forme sa commencer a me fatiguer de faire les tranchage à la main. La au moins sa va vite, s'est organiser pas d'érreure possible ET sa se fait tout seul ^^.
  38. 1 point
    Because Firmware 5.2 does weird things if it processes a G92 command with Z parameter. You should report it back to your reseller to take sure that someone is taking note of it. I don't know if it is a bug or intentional behavior, but you are not alone...
  39. 1 point
    Hallo Kurt! In Cura (bei mir 4) gibt es im Menü den Punkt "Erweiterungen > Nachbearbeitung G-Code ändern". Im sich öffnenden Fenster "Ein Script hinzufügen" auswählen. Dort findest Du dann zur Auswahl "Filament Change". Dort bei "Layer" einen gewünschten Wert eintragen ab welcher Schicht das Filament gewechselt werden soll. Der Druck unterbricht dann und der Druckkopf fährt vom zu drucken Objekt weg. Hoffe ich konnte etwas helfen. Gruß Matthias
  40. 1 point
    Hello, Je vais supprimer les post dupliqués 😉 Pour ton problème il y a des options dans Cura (sous mesh fixes) qui ont des effets sur ce genre de soucis. Le mieux c'est d'avoir un bon fichier STL dès le départ, il faut que l'objet soit un solide, ton logiciel c'est sketchup? Il est pas top pour les STL pour l'impression 3D.
  41. 1 point
    That's unfortunate. At the moment remote printing is only supported by Cura indeed, so either on a 2nd desktop or a laptop that you take somewhere else. I can't go into details here but we'll be adding a lot more features in the (near) future, this is just the basis for having a cloud connection at all.
  42. 1 point
    Den kompletten Cura Ordner (mit darin liegenden unter Ordner) kopieren, und am bestens falls der bei deinen neuen PC schon erstellt wurde erstmal komplett löschen (bei geschlossenen Cura natürlich), dann den Ordner von deinen alten PC rein kopieren Und keinesfalls die Dateien von 3.5 in Ordner 3.6 kopieren/verschieben, das macht Cura automatisch beim ersten start und nimmt dann Änderungen vor die durch der Versions Upgrade nötig sind.
  43. 1 point
    VERY helpful. The re-design of my part has completely resolved my problem and the new parts print perfectly. But I'm sure I will run into this problem again, so the above information will be very helpful in resolving those future headaches! Thanks! Regards, Ray L.
  44. 1 point
    Well for those interested theres not much difference in detail in dousing the object in acetone other than you get more spots for longer than a quick brush. But thats about it, i guess i must not have covered the bottom of this other one above all that well. The issue with over brushing is that after you have brushed off the additives in the PLA PHA then there is less smoothing material left behind because you have essentially washed it off/out. If you over acetone it could split due to drying out. But I must say since using the s5 I have not had one model split on me regardless of how much acetone I used. It must be the fact that on my UM2 I was printing so low that some layers had simply not bonded as well as I had thought.....Oh well some nicer photos, had to be done. The one on the left has been brushed on for a whole minute as i didn't have enough acetone to dunk it! and the one on the right is just a quick wax on and job done. I finally need to buy some more...Id say 1 litres of acetone lasts me about a year. Thats good value!
  45. 1 point

    Version 1.0

    656 downloads

    they show your guests where the toilet is...
  46. 1 point
    He sent me an email. I told him to come to this topic and sent him a link. Before applying the glue, are the magnets typically loose or tight?
  47. 1 point
    J'ai donc reçu le capot pour l'UM3Ex de la part de Makershop, en fait ce produit est développé par la société Accante.com mais pour les Ultimaker il est commercialisé par Makershop.com , jusque là aucun soucis, très beau packaging, très bien emballé. Makershop annonce moins d'une heure pour le monter, ils sont très très loin du compte et pourtant je ne suis pas un manchot du montage de kit. Comme je leur ai expliqué par email je n'ose pas me mettre à la place du kidam pas du tout bricoleur . Il faut déjà 1/4H pour décoller toutes les feuilles de plastoc de protection sur les deux faces de tous les panneaux en Altuglas alors leur dire : "L'assemblage du capot est simple et rapide (moins d'une heure)" ils repasseront, je mets au défi quiconque n'en ayant jamais monté un de le faire en moins d'une heure . Rien que le capot j'ai mis plus de deux heures et il restait la porte . Et là les choses se sont gâtées ... Sur la porte d'une Extended il y a 3 charnières. Une fois montées la charnière supérieure qui se monte sous la poulie crantée de gauche de l'axe X ne rentrait pas du tout. En fait elle butait sur la réglette de protection de la barrette de LEDs et je ne comprenais pas pourquoi. Après une bonne heure d'essais, de réflexion (je sais j'ai le cerveau lent ...) je décide de démonter le panneau latéral gauche, ou plustôt de desserrer toutes ses vis pour ensuite tenter de faire descendre cette fichue réglette de protection des LEDs car je me suis aperçu qu'il y avait un espace vers le bas . En forçant vraiment très fort à plusieurs reprises cette réglette a enfin daignée descendre, resserré toutes les vis du panneau latéral gauche et enfin la porte a pu s'installer correctement . Donc au final trois heures au moins pour monter ce fichu capot plus la porte . Très bel aspect, il faut le reconnaitre, voilà la photo: Il y a quand même un point qui m'interpelle concernant le filtre HEPA : Il est à l'intérieur de l'enceinte, jusque la rien d'anormal, mais le ventilateur d'extraction est lui aussi à l'intérieur sans sortie vers l'extérieur de l'air brassée, je doute donc fort de l'efficacité du système . A moins que je me sois trompé dans le montage mais je ne le pense pas . Comment est ce sur le capot de l'UM2 ? Un filtrage qui recycle dans la même enceinte c'est très bizarre : Le capot et la porte conservent une bonne température dans l'enceinte, ça améliore de façon significative les résultats d'impression, ça c'est très bien. Bref hormis ce point concernant le filtrage le reste est pas mal, en plus pour une fois qu'un produit est Frenchy et bien conçu et non pas Tchong et zarbi il ne faut pas s'en plaindre bien au contraire . Le prix peut être un peu élevé, mais il faut comprendre aussi que l'on fait vivre certains de nos concitoyens donc la aussi il ne faut pas s'en plaindre, et ce n'est pas par ce que le prix serait 50€ plus bas que nous serions plus riches . Et puis comme me dis souvent un ami : "Cela ne sert à rien d'être un jour le plus riche du cimetière" ... Alors il faut savoir se faire plaisir ... Imprimement vôtre ... pf
  48. 1 point
    @Labern has a mirrored feeder assembly up on youmagine that works very well here. Will look into that, think it is a nicer solution to place feeder n2. Thanks!
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    Yes it's more complicated. First of all it's in mm/minute so just divide by 60 to get mm/sec. example: 100mm/sec is feedrate of 6000. Feedrate is the requested speed for ALL 4 AXES. It's an old term for old CNC and other machines e.g. milling machines and lathes. It is used because certain materials can be cut at certain feed rates. Anyway - back to 3d printing. It is the requested speed for all 4 axes (X,Y,Z,E) so if you then do a movement in only one axis that axis will go at that speed but is constrained by the max speed for that axis. Also movement is constrained by max jerk setting and by acceleration for that axis. If you make a movement using multiple axes (most often you move X,Y and E at the same time) Marlin will move linearly. It won't move all axes at max speed because then you wouldn't get a straight smooth movement. You want the E axis to speed up at the same time as you speed up the other 2 axes and so on. So the actual movement speed may be slower but Feedrate is the desired speed. On the control panel for UMO and UM2 you can go into TUNE menu and adjust the requested speed by a certain percentage. Marlin will multiply this by the gcode feedrate to get a REQUESTED speed. The actual speed may be lower, again due to acceleration or max speed on any of the axes that are moving. It's rare for the Z axis or the E axis max speed to restrict the actual speed. Usually the X and Y axis are the axes going as fast as possible (at the requested feedrage). So most people think of this as the X and Y speed but in reality the "F" parameter controls all 4 axes.
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!