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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Hi everyone, Thank you for all the time and energy you invest in sharing your messages here, trying to share your perspective with others. I like to think that this all comes from the same place; because we care, because we believe in Ultimaker and because we feel frustrated with the existing situation. This can be read in between the lines of several of the recent messages. Let's not allow this care or frustration to turn our efforts where we try and help each other into a scenario where we are opposite of each other, head to head. From day one Ultimaker has been aware of the bugs introduced by this firmware and after carefully collecting feedback of the exact size and impacts of these bugs our firmware team has been working on a fix. I would be lying if I said it was not taking long, that is painfully true. But merely the metric of time does not imply nothing is being done. Quite the opposite, we do not permit ourselves anything less than a reliable and useful release of new firmware, which takes time to build and test. As I stated previously in one of my messages in this thread; if you have an Ultimaker S5, our sales partner in your local region should be able to roll back to the previous firmware version. The Ultimaker would need to be shipped, but shipping should be covered by warranty. To be sure, check with your reseller in your region. I would only recommend to do this if the issues you're dealing with leave you in an unworkable situation, otherwise, I would recommend to have a little bit more patience until the new firmware is released. For an Ultimaker 3, instructions are shared in an earlier message how you can roll back firmware yourself. You can read the instructions before executing this operation to determine if this looks like something you are capable of doing. If not, I would also not recommend going down this path. We know, the only real good solution would obviously be new firmware. This is being worked on. Now as a final note, this is a thread where we try to help each other with firmware issues. We help to see if any logged issues can be solved by a temporary workaround and by sharing updates about firmware developments. I urge everyone to stay on topic. Off topic posts will be moderated.
  2. 7 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  3. 6 points
    Just found a few photos I took a while back on my sd card when I had some left over dry ice to play with. Just for lolz.
  4. 5 points
    Hi everyone, I'm also from Ultimaker, also not a firmware engineer but I've been busy trying to collect more information about this uncomfortable situation. If you have read through the past 9 or 10 pages you should know we're very much aware of the issues and are working on a fix. In a previous message I explained that the worst thing we could do now is release a fix for the existing firmware which contained other bugs or does not fix what it should. That is why we're thoroughly testing the new version and it takes longer than any of us wants. The outcome should be a version that we can all trust and reliably use. We're working hard to make that real. A previous version we built and tested did not pass our testing entirely so we choose not to release it. We're almost ready to test a newer build version which, if all goes well, we should be able to release rather sooner than later. But first, it needs to be tested as well. No one would benefit from any unnecessary delays and we also want everyone to get back to reliable and satisfactory 3D printing as soon as possible. So as Nallath says, 'We're working on it as best we can'. Hopefully, with a little bit of patience, we'll have a new version out soon. If there are any relevant updates, I'll share with you via this thread. Thank you for your time and patience so far, it is deeply appreciated. And our sincere apologies for the inconvenience caused.
  5. 5 points
    There are 400+ people working for Ultimaker. There is no way that everyone can know what is happening at any given moment. So yeah, I do work for Ultimaker, but that doesn't mean that I can give answers about everything that's going on at any given moment. I understand that people are frustrated about it, but there is also no need to start lashing out at anyone working for UM that is responding to things in this topic. I'm trying to help in what limited way I can. Not because I have to (because hey, it's not my job), but because I feel that it's important to do so. Let's turn it around a bit; I'm seeing a lot of frustrated people. But due to me not working on the right project, there is little I can do about it. What I can do is respond at some of the other remarks that were being made. Upon doing so I suddenly get attack for doing that. What kind of message do you think that gives off? If that happened to you, would you feel that it matters that you're trying to help? I doubt it. So yeah. I do respond a bit cranky if my genuine attempts to at least do something get annoyed responses. It frustrates me that what little I can do about this issue isn't going to fix it. I also get that your frustration is even worse because there is even less that you guys can do about the problem and for that, I'm really sorry. There just is no more information than "We're working on it as best we can". I know that's not a satisfactory answer because quite often this is used as a "shut up and leave us alone" response to get people to stop complaining. But it's the best answer I can give because it's the truth. We are working on it, it is something that a lot of people (myself included, even though it isn't my problem) feel strongly / responsible about.
  6. 5 points
    First Experimental PP prints. The prints were finished more than a month ago. I have had liquid sitting in them all this time and no leaks. All I have to do is find a silicone seal for the cap and it will be water tight. Literally. Once I have the silicone gasket in place, it will be really spiffy. These are the bottle designs: So, the first on the left is the first attempt. Nothing special. The the 'K-Bottle' was the second attempt (yeah, yeah, I know it is out of order in the image) where I wanted to figure a proper way to make 'logo' and design stylings more complex. The "Tokah-Cola' bottle was spurred by all the news about beverage companies trying to figure how to make and market CBD infused beverages. So, I thought this would be a nice little drink. These are the actual bottles with food coloring in the water.
  7. 5 points
    Since we only ever fill the threads with complaints and blames about bugs and errors, the positive should also be highlighted. Bringing the firmware from UM3 to the same code base was certainly not easy. And it was even more difficult to ensure a smooth update process without bricking the UM3. Therefore I would like to thank all developers and testers for their work! 👍 👏 Please keep up the good work.
  8. 5 points
    Humble administrator's garden was approved by UNESCO to be included in the world heritage list in 1997.
  9. 4 points
    Greetings! We’ve just released a new stable firmware for the Ultimaker S5 and the Ultimaker 3 (Extended). Use your Ultimaker printer with Ultimaker Cura 4.0 and an Ultimaker account, and you can make use of the remote ‘cloud’ printing feature. This lets you print from outside the realms of your local network with an Ultimaker 3 or Ultimaker S5 via your Ultimaker account. There are also some other features detailed in the blog. This release also introduces unified firmware, which makes it easier for our embedded team to support releases for the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker S5 together. Because of this, the installation process is a little different this time around. First, install the ‘stepping stone firmware’. When this is installed, update your firmware again to get to the latest version. For our S5 beta testers, you will also need to follow this process. Update instructions and release notes can be found here . When your printer is running firmware 5.2.8, you will be able to use the same .swu package for the UM3 and UMS5 to update firmware in future, reducing the risk of bricking your printer. Feel free to offer any feedback or comments in this thread.
  10. 4 points
    @Smithy I am kinda taking my time updating the post - however work in progress like everything else in my life right now. This is a perma-link but I will finish it under the following days -- I hope!! please feel free to add and comment if you want any other extra info https://www.dineadesign.com/2019/04/29/the-equilibrium-pavilion/ Here are some random photos that are also on my blog post for everyone who does't feel like reading. We turned it into a guest book on Sunday - thought it would be cool. after life of the pavilion in a shared office space in Helsingborg:
  11. 4 points
    hello classmates I want to show my recent work, a design and manufacture of the ultimaker 3 closing printer manufactured in the best acrylic, with the maintenance system of the liver pressure and the ionizer, it also has double top opening and touch screen for Control of the application on black background. I hope you like me
  12. 4 points
    Because I'm not a firmware engineer. So yeah, I reply to things I know something about. Which in this case was scanning & sensors. Or would you rather have me not reply at all or give you false / incorrect information? If you want a nice white lie, I'm more than happy to give it, but I assumed that this is not what you guys want / need.
  13. 4 points
    Here my project from the last weekend. A wall clock, controlled by an ESP8266 microcontroller. The ESP controls a LED stripe to show the current time which is fetched regularly via Wifi from an NTP server. The clock contains 6 segments for the ring and 60 parts for the minute indicators. Red shows hour, green the minute and blue for the seconds. Now I only have to find a nice place to put it on a wall.
  14. 4 points
    Because I can make a plugin that fixes some of your issues, but I have no say about the UI of Ultimaker Cura? Would you rather I don't make an alternative GUI? I don't understand responses like this. Note that what the plugin does would not have been possible with a plugin in previous versions of Cura. Ultimaker have made the Cura UI more plugin-friendly. Now you have a choice, even if you don't like the default option.
  15. 4 points
    I pushed v1.5 update on GitHub. It is mainly to replace the 19mm short bearing with a long one for better reliability. Changes: 1. Both X and Y bearings are now both 35mm long, same as the original UM2 printhead. It is more stable and reliable. The previous 19mm Y bearing had a few downsides: only misumi sells ones with sufficient build quality, they wear faster than long bearing, etc. To make proper space for the long bearing, I had to increase the X offset of nozzles from 18mm to 19mm, and the housing from 35x35 to 38x38. This resulted in 2mm less X print area but it is well worth it. 2. New fan shroud design. Blower fan changed from 3015 to 3510. Homemade aluminium cover by soda can at the bottom. The fan shroud can be printed with lower temp materials such as modified PC (heat resistance of 90C). 3510 12v fan is easier to source with more consistent stock. For those of you who already bought the 3015 fans, there is still a fan shroud variant to use 3015 with v1.5. 3. Hotend fan changed from 2510 to 3010. Not really for performance improvement. 3010 5v is much easier to source and cheaper. 4. Lever dock is simplified with only one tab. This gives the lever freedom to sweep back at full speed, not limited by the travel speed of printhead. Nozzle 2 falls back to it's position with optimal momentum. 5. BOM is hence modified with the new fans and bearing. The hotend, spring and bolts stays the same. 6. Firmware update for v1.5 moved to dedicated repository. I may or may not update the assembly images because people can still figure out how to assemble v1.5 based on the original images. I'll upload the jig and instructions for making the aluminium bottom cover later.
  16. 4 points

    Version 1.0.0

    5 downloads

    This is a suggestion to develop a new type of support that gows from the side of the printed part instead of the print bed. This could reduce material used for support and reduce print time. I have done two tests to compare, the design can be improved and i am sure a slincing algorythm can be added maybe in "Cura" to have Ramification support. I added Pictures and the models of two comparative parts. Let me know what you think and if you can develop the algorythm. This is totally open source suggestion i claim no right for. I only would like it to be named "Ramificaitons". (STL need to be rotated 90 degrees)
  17. 4 points
    Could you give it a try with the following settings? We had some good results with these: Line width: 0.4 Wall thickness: 1.2 Top/Bottom thickness: 1.2 Speeds: 40 Jerks: 20 Horizontal expansion: -0.03 walls: 3
  18. 3 points
    We’ve just released a beta of Ultimaker Cura 4.1, and we’ve added some improvements based on your feedback: - Collapsible panels introduced in the new interface are now completely draggable and can be positioned anywhere on the screen - Badge notifications have been added to the Ultimaker Marketplace so you know when your packages need to be updated - You can now add separate brims to prime towers - We’ve also made some stability fixes with the monitor page Find the update blog here: https://ultimaker.com/en/blog/52884-try-new-3d-printing-software-features-in-ultimaker-cura-41-beta Help us out by downloading today, testing, and logging any feedback in this thread or on GitHub for us to integrate into the stable release. ***** Firmware 5.2 hotfix update! In other news, we released a hotfix firmware that addresses issues encountered in the firmware 5.2 release. We appreciate your patience and understanding while we’ve been investigating the issues that some of you reported. Download the hotfix here: ultimaker.com/firmware
  19. 3 points
    So we have been getting along brilliantly with our 'fleet' of Ultimaker printers (1x UMOriginal, 1x UM2 and 2xUM3) and ArchiCAD. The Custom Cutting Planes function is perfect for extracting model information to create facade studies straight out of ArchiCAD and into Cura with minimal alterations!
  20. 3 points
    A circle is never a real circle in 3D printing, it is built from polygons. So in your design software, you have to search for a setting with which quality you want to export the file as STL. When you choose a lower quality then you see each polygon if you choose a higher setting, then much more polygons are created to describe the circle and then it looks round as it should.
  21. 3 points
    As promised from my side, but nothing new for you here anymore, I got confirmed by a trustable source via mail, that you got heard already and people are trying to fix your problems asap. First of all, before I continue on some statements here, I have to say that I'm pretty much disappointed by the exposure done on the Ultimaker team by some people in this thread. I think the correct place to let someone know of your disappointment is not a public place like this. I could continue investing more of my energy into telling what I think (will do this later), but I want to make it short by saying: This way of blaming the whole company in public next to other community members, hobbyists and end users from the industry, is neither fair nor professional at all! Yes, you can be frustrated and you might be correct in many of your points, but are you really sure that it would have been better with a different manufacturer? Nevertheless, even if you thank the community for their help, blaming on Ultimaker makes me personally feel really bad. I'm really limited in time every day, but reading all the messages here made me getting active on this. Wanted to prevent this situation and wanted to calm you all down, but see that I missed my goal on some people here. Generally, have the opinion that many of you misunderstood the purpose of the forums. Resellers are responsible for local services and satisfaction. The forums are for announcements and a place created by Ultimaker for 3D printing enthusiasts to share their designs, problems and solutions. Yes, it is a place for support, but not too much on industrial level. Before something gets considered as a solution by Ultimaker it must be tested before (which should correspond with your industrial thinking, because a bad solution is like having no solution). Additionally, backward compatibility is never guaranteed to work since it is never (and probably will never be) tested (logically - since testing and doing downgrades now, would eat valuable time of an engineer to fix the actual problem). As I said before, what counts at the moment, is that a solution will be found soon. I'm sure Ultimaker as a company learned a lesson from that. (I'm allowed the say the following since I'm neither employed by Ultimaker nor making money with neither Ultimaker nor someone else right now.) Please, take some of your time, find a quiet and enjoyable place and think about how you communicate here. I know from my experiences with industrial (incl. automotive) companies that life can be stressing, but that's no excuse to be like this. Getting no answer from someone in time doesn't necessarily mean that someone is lazy and not doing her/his best to come back with a (real!) solution. Everyone who knows me can tell for sure that I could continue at this point and end up in a book. In any case, I'm convinced of Ultimaker products and trust their work! Thanks - Thomas Karl Pietrowski
  22. 3 points
    @Smithy Thanks for joining
  23. 3 points
    taking a break from movies and trying some cuteness. but it seems as either my z screw is dirty or my printer is unable to close a semi sphere smoothly, hence the random line. its 1.2 wall so it should be plenty, its on both models, ill try a few tests in the meantime! miaow, pusheen kitty inspired.
  24. 3 points
    solved ne trouvant pas de solution dans les paramètres du menu, j'ai essayé de soulever le plateau hors tension, bien m'en a pris. j'ai pu nettoyer l'amoncèlement de plastique qui garnissait le fond de l'imprimante, dont la tour de purge qui avait cassée durant le print. cela gênait la position basse du plateau. ensuite RAS, calibrage ok
  25. 3 points
    Google for "simple led circuits" and then select "images". This shows the setup. Always keep in mind: LEDs do need a resistor to limit current, otherwise they burn out! Usually the voltage over a LED is between 1.6V (old red LED) and 2.5...3V (blue and white LEDs). The recommended current for a nice illumination can go from 1mA to 10mA usually, depending on the LED. Don't come near the maximum current through the LED, always stay well below 50% of the maximum. So you need to look up the specs of your LED, or measure them: - normal voltage over the LED= Vled = ? - recommended current through the LED= I = ? What battery or charger are you going to use (I would recommend a 5V or 9V charger): - sourcevoltage = Vs = ? And then calculate the resistor as follows: 1) resistorvoltage = sourcevoltage minus LEDvoltage = Vr = Vs - Vled 2) resistor = resistorvoltage divided by LED current = R = Vr / I 3) power dissipation in the resistor = current multiplied by voltage over resistor = P = Vr x I Example: Imagine this are the specs: - Vled = 2.2V (=voltage over LED, from the specs of the LED) - Vs = 5V (source voltage, as usually found in chargers for charging USB devices or smartphones) - I = 5mA (=recommended current through LED in the specs) Then: 1) Vr = Vs - Vled = 5 V - 2.2 V = 2.8V 2) R = Vr / I = 2.8 V / 5mA = 0.56 kOhm = 560 ohm (take the closest available standard value) 3) P = Vr x I = 2.8 V x 5mA = 14mW (then add some spare: triple this value and take the next higher available resistor series, so it does not get hot: for example take a resistor of 250mW, a very common series) 4) add an on-off switch. That is all. You values may be somewhat different, but this is the principle. Basic scheme But do recalculate the resistor value according to the specs of your LED and your sourcevoltage or battery voltage!!! It may differ. Usually the long pin of the LED is the plus-terminal. And the pin connected to the "dish" inside the bulb is the minus-terminal. Usually, but check it. It only works if you connect the plus-terminal of the LED to the plus-terminal of the battery or source, not vice-versa. Plastic LEDs like these can be grinded or reshaped with a Dremel and cutting disk, as long as you don't hit the wires and chips (also not the very thin wire on top of the chip). But they do get fragile. I used to do that in model trains and cars, to make them fit. But don't cut/drill into modern white LEDs. Typical resistors. The color bands indicate the resistor value. Google for it. That is all there is to it. Use a battery charger with short-circuit protection. And/or add a mini fuse yourself. (All pictures via: "Google --> Images". Credits to the original photographers/designers.)
  26. 3 points
    Question: what nozzle diameter does your printer have? If I were to guess, I would say 0,015748". Is that a nice number to have all widths depend on? What is the wall width if use 3 extrusion thicknesses? 0,0472441". Do you really want to think in those numbers? 0.4mm and 1.2mm respectively sound like much more workable numbers. I have never seen a 3d printer that is based on imperial units. 3d printers are intrinsically based on metric units. This may be different from CNC machines, I don't know. But Cura is designed for 3d printers.
  27. 3 points
    I learned recently that the USA isn't using the Metric System due to pirates, even though it was officially placed in the law. The more you know, and how small events can have big effects! 😉 @MIO This forum is hardly the place to have that good old discussion about Imperial vs Metric and which system is best, and @alan-bc specifically mentioned that he wasn't looking to start a flame war about switching. This thread is about CURA, and if having the option of switching to Imperial units helps @alan-bc and other users in their everyday use of CURA and their UM printers, then I'm all for it. I have literally zero knowledge of the amount of work that coding such a thing would require, plus testing and such, but, from the user point of view, I would agree that it would be useful feature for those who are in countries that use Imperial units. After all, we can already chose the language and the currency units to use, and the software let me put it in French and the currency in $, for example, without a fuss.
  28. 3 points
    Hi everyone, thank you for all your messages and our apologies for any inconvenience the latest firmware may have caused for you. It is important to know that we take your troubles very serious and are working hard on making a new version that would be safe for everyone to use. When it is ready it will be tested, and then tested again, and then we'll make sure you will hear about it as soon as possible. There have also been a few suggestions to take this latest firmware down. While it is undeniable that it has caused some issues for some of our users, the full percent of users plagued by them is not that high as what may seem so in this thread. Higher than usual, sure. But there are (luckily) more users who remain issue-free. This may not mean much to you when you do have issues, but I wanted to elaborate on why it was not pulled offline yet. Unfortunately, releasing a newer, tested and stable version will take a little bit longer than originally shared (referring to an earlier communicated timeline of one week). There are a few things we can do in the meantime. If the issues you are having are creating an unworkable situation, it is probably wise to install an older firmware version. User @gr5 has shared instructions in this thread. While the instructions may not appear difficult for the experienced user, it can be a dangerous area to dive in if you've never done something like it before. You have to be ESD safe and there is risk of bricking your machine if you do it wrong. So if you are unsure, (or if you are sure you just do not want to do it yourself), we recommend getting in touch with your reseller. They definitely can install new firmware for you and return your Ultimaker to you. If you have an Ultimaker S5, unfortunately it is not possible to install new firmware yourself. Our sales partners can. Please get in touch with them if you prefer to have the previous firmware version installed. Since (almost) all Ultimaker S5s should still fall under warranty, there should be no additional costs. Some other tips that may have gone unnoticed: - I read that a Cura connect reset and factory reset may fix one or two bugs - If you are struggling with your XY calibration, make sure to manually push your filament in all the way before your print starts. The firmware retracts it too far which ruins your filament flow. - If I catch any more solutions, I will update this post accordingly. Again; our apologies for the inconvenience. Thank you @CarloK for the help you have been providing here. We're working on a solution and you'll all be the first to know when it is available.
  29. 3 points
    The Sidebar GUI plugin available from the Marketplace fixes most of your points.
  30. 3 points
    Hey all ! New here and to 3d printing in general, thought i'd post up one of my first semi succesful prints. Mostly came out ok, had some warpage on the bed because I thought I could get away with a simple brim and not a raft, which seems to almost never work on my Tevo Nereus. Also had several layer shifts, not sure how to fix that yet. Still learning. All in all its still functional and working great !
  31. 3 points
    It’s unfortunate to see this release has been causing issues for some users. Reported issues, including the ones in this thread have been all been noted and our firmware team is working on solutions as a priority. A hotfix is being prepared that we will release in the upcoming days. So far, the contents of this will include: A fix for updating when the printer has no network connection Extrusion issues with X/Y calibration procedure Correcting incorrect screen orientation after reboot
  32. 3 points
    Hello Community I think I have a quite simple question but unfortunately no answer. Is it possibel in CURA 4.0 to modify the color in the mode "Preview" => "Line type" => "Color Scheme"? Currently the Top/Bottom-Layer is represented in a kind of light yellow. The infill is represented in let me say a kind of less light yellow color. As we are all aware about the fact that millions of colors are available I do not understand why this extremly similar colors have been choosen for representation by CURA. E.g. why not follow the PRUSA Slicer approach? I really looking forward for an answer. Kind regards, Carsten Schröder Horneburg/Germany Cura Approach: PRUSA Slicer Approach:
  33. 3 points
    I don't like the new interface, for the same reasons I highlighted on my post in the beta thread. Thanks a lot to @ahoeben for the sidebar plugin! Now CURA becomes easy and simple to use again.
  34. 3 points
    Ha, I see what you did there with the blog post title...
  35. 3 points
    Je m'en sert pour le maquettisme ferroviaire au 1/160ème. Par exemple pour le reproduction de ma maison ou pour des ouvrages maçonnés. Résultat sympa.
  36. 2 points
    Bonjour, Je suis dans le même principe: plutôt prévenir que guérir. Graissage (toutes les 100 ou 200h, un peu au pif) des axes X et Y à l'huile type "machine à coudre", et graissage de la vis Z à la graisse téflon. Ensuite, JAMAIS de démontage de buse à froid et TOUJOURS commencer à visser les buses à la main, sans utiliser de clé, pour éviter de baiser les filets. Enfin, soigner les températures afin de ne pas faire cramer les filaments ce qui évite d'avoir à faire des "nettoyages atomiques" (plus très sûr du nom car ça fait plus de six mois que j'en ai pas fait.). Plus un coup d'aspirateur à l'intérieur quand c'est trop cracra. J'ai rien fait d'autre et ma machine affiche 3274h de mise sous tension, 1967h de "print" et 1323m de filament englouti. voili voilou
  37. 2 points
    A prerelease version of the OctoPrint Plugin for Cura 4.1 can be dowloaded here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/OctoPrintPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-05-16T10_29_36Z.curapackage Please drop the downloaded file into a running Cura application window, and restart Cura. Unless issues are reported with this version of the plugin, it should be available as an update on the Marketplace soon.
  38. 2 points
    I put heatsinks on the original stepper drivers as well. They did get a little hotter than normal with the addition of the tl smoothers. Heatsinks are so cheap it just seems like the sensible thing to do, even without any modification.
  39. 2 points
    Birdfeed holder, to attach the bird feeder to the new small tree in our garden, with branches too thin, but with a 40 mm diameter trunk. Fixed with two velcro stripes. Filament is Nylon transparent from Ultimaker, construction with Fusion 360.
  40. 2 points
    Well; after over 4 weeks of sharing the issues, having the Ultimaker Team acknowledge that they are aware of them, and yet still no clear path to resolve the issues nor any element of urgency evidenced; I give a thumbs up to “thopiekar” for entering this arena. Even my USA distributor has remained unable to resolve issues because they tell me that Ultimaker has still not gotten back to them; this after over 3 weeks. If not for the lack of communication from the Ultimaker Team within this forum I likely would not believe them and yet I do, and I also find myself feeling bad for them because they too are dealing with the exact same thing. This situation has gone from not good, to beyond unacceptable. The Ultimaker Team and their distributors direct customers to this forum for support and guidance however, it appears that this forum is also used to shield the world by keeping the proverbial dirty laundry in house; I refer back to an earlier 0.1 percent comment and it not being a sufficient number of affected customers for them to react to on an extreme level. I also recall another customer sharing that he was going to make comments on Facebook , well, maybe it’s time to have the periodicals such as; Make, All3DP, TCT, AllThat3D, etc. print an editorial or an article within their user experience sections? This situation is no longer even marginally acceptable. I will no longer accept having invested roughly $10K USD into a 3D printer along with supplies and spare parts as a tool for my business only to have far less than I was promised and frankly, assured throughout the purchasing process. I asked very specific questions because this is not my first 3D printer. I dealt with and accepted the growing pains as the technology developed always accepting that they were one step away from “hobbiest” 3D printers.Having shared this I have several associates that also own businesses that feel the exact same way as well many within this forum. In retrospect; I that thought that I did my diligence prior to buying into the Ultimaker program haven spoken with several distributors and several folks within the Ultimaker Team. It was during these conversations that I heard hence believed that Ultimaker was setting the 3D printer bar; a bar that other 3D printer manufacturers would have to aspire to oust be left behind. This is why I paid what was considered a premium for Ultimaker’s top of the line 3D printer solicited as designed and thoroughly tested for years prior to being offered for sale to the “businesses” environment. Ultimaker made clear that this was a fully developed 3D printer that could easily be used by the lay person within any office environment. What I have experienced, as well as many many others, is a company that is far from that which they want folks; including their distributors and 3D marketplace to believe. I am very disappointed.
  41. 2 points
    I have been racking my brain for months trying to deal my prints always being about 0.2 mm outside to outside or so bigger and hole diameters around the same smaller than what the CAD/STL dimensions are. This doesn't always matter but for designs that need to fit real world dimensions it can be an issue. Ideally all parts printed would be the correct dimension for holes and outside dimensions as designed in fusion 360 and allowing the design to be used for 3d printing and other real world uses without needing to compensate for slight printing over-extrusion on the outer walls and skewing your design sizes. Most people seem to calibrate a 100 mm by 100 mm outside to outside dimension object. That is not ideal though as hole dimensions will be smaller when printed as the outside to outside measurement assumes that a line is exactly 0.4 mm when printed on the outside wall which is not correct in my testing and experience. To calibrate the X and Y dimensions, I print a 90 degree L shaped design that is 4 mm wide by 110 mm in X and 110 mm in Y length. I designed some lines on top of the surface that are exactly 100 mm apart in both X and Y dimensions. For a perfectly calibrated FDM printer, If you were to measure from outside to outside of those raised bumps, you would be measuring slightly over 100 mm because the measurement should be 100 mm to 100 mm center to center. I don't expect a 100 mm by 100 mm cube to be 100 mm to 100 mm outside to outside because that assumes that wall lines are exactly 0.4 mm when printed which isn't the case with FDM printing. The outside wall line doesn't have any filament to push up against on the outer side so it expands more than 0.4 mm. You could try and adjust the line width to be exactly 0.4 mm but that would not work well at all. You wouldn't fill the voids between filament lines enough to have good adhesion and the lines would be more visible. From everything I read, It seems that it is normal to have a single 0.4 mm line width to be bigger than that. Because of this I calibrate to be 100 mm center to center of the lines on a 110 mm length print. I have tried to compensate using a few methods for the line width on the outside of the outer wall being slightly bigger but none of them work for all scenarios or they require extra design adjustments to make up for it. 1. Designing all my stuff with a around 0.2 mm larger holes and 0.2 mm outside to outside (0.1 mm per side) smaller size for non hole outside faces. 2. For already designed STL files that don't have FDM tolerances built in, scale the part size bigger if the holes are smaller than actual dimensions. For outside dimensions that need to be the correct precise size, I scale the part smaller or do a lot of sanding which sometimes is not possible if the design is very complex. If you need both holes and outside dimensions to be accurate you are in trouble as you have to pick on or the other and do sanding if you scale it bigger or drilling out the holes. Cura's Horizontal Expansion can do the same thing as scaling the size of it in the slicer but either of those do one of 2 things... either fix holes and expand the outside dimensions or... fix the outside dimensions and make holes smaller. I finally found the setting in Cura that does exactly what I need. It moves the outside wall (realize that the inside of a circle is also an outside wall) toward the inside wall by a certain amount. This allows me to have an exactly calibrated 100 mm to 100 mm line (center to center) and adjust for the line being a little over 0.4 mm causing the outside wall to be over-extruded by somewhere around 0.6 to 0.1 mm per side (Depending on your printer and filament size setting accuracy and flow settings). The setting is called 'Outer wall inset'. You give it a positive value to move the wall inward toward the inner wall by this amount. I set it to around 0.1 mm on my prints to get the outside dimensions and hole dimensions to be exactly how I designed them in Fusion 360. For most prints from thingiverse I leave that feature disabled because most designers have tolerance built into prints to make them fit together. There are some that are not though like some sockets I found on thingiverse. For my own future designs, I am designing them to the actual real world dimensions that I want and then use the 'Outer wall inset' to adjust for line width being slightly bigger on the outside wall's outside facing surface. Hopefully this makes sense to someone as I am not the best at trying to explain things... I was very excited to find this setting though because I have searched on this issue for a long time and never found anything mentioning using this setting for this purpose. The only thing I found on 'Outer wall inset' seemed to indicate it is used to make up for setting a line width smaller than the nozzle size (which Cura automatically adjusts) to get the outer wall to overlap the inner wall more. Then again... I am relatively new to 3d printing (about a year or so)... I have certainly been wrong many times in my life and been in many situations thinking I understand something when I really don't :).
  42. 2 points
    Let me make clear i really appreciate the effort you put into such plugin. It probably takes a lot of time and it really adds value to Cura 4.0. But i try to make an statement to the Cura UI designers that are aiming for "easy" use instead of "advanced" / "practical" use. Again i appreciate your plugin and certainly will use it. Thank you for that.
  43. 2 points
    Il faut que tu sois entre les deux, la feuille ne doit pas être bloqué, mais que tu sente que ça gratte. Et puis il faut qu'elle soit assez relevé pour que tu puisse passé la feuille. Après tu verra avec l'expérience, une couche trop écrasé = sous extrusion et la bourrage de la ligne. La matière sortiras comme elle peut. Et s'il n'est pas assez écrasé = décollement du matériaux. Des images sur google illustre mes propos. Je ne connais pas Alfawise, mais une fois ce réglage fait,n'hésite pas pendant l'impression de la première couche de peaufiné/nivelé manuellement le plateau. Pour un réglage plus poussé tu peux utilisé une cale mécanique de 0.1 ou 0.2 et en fonction de ton pas moteur Z tu fait tes réglages. Perso je ne l'utilise pas. Et encore plus loin tu peut utilise un micromètre une fois que tu à imprimé un stl de nivellement. Un grand et un petit cercle du même centre avec une ou deux largeur de ligne et tu peux les raccordées en croix, genre un "peace" mais avec un deux cercle au centre. La température plateau n'est pas à négligé comme beaucoup de chose en impression 3d. Je n'imprime que rarement du PLA, mais il me semble que si le plateau est trop chaud ça ce décolle. Contrairement à l'abs. Une fois la première couche maîtrisé, il faut maîtrisé la température avec un bon débit. Puis les rétractions, déplacement et enfin la vitesse.
  44. 2 points
    l'humidité dont il s'est chargé( surtout du PLA) sort sous forme de vapeur et fait des microbulles à l'impression... C'est encore plus flagrant quand j'essaie d'extruder des nouveaux filaments en PLA avec des débris de vieux prints broyés. La phase de déshydratation est essentielle, si elle est mal faite, on a du filament soufflé à la mode biscuit apéritif...
  45. 2 points
    Bon alors.. Pour la laque: "Elnett fixation forte" fonctionne très bien.. les autres c'est aléatoire... Dimafix ou dédié, sont plus appropriés. Le nettoyage: "Benzine rectifiée" jamais essayé... Chez moi, lavage à l'eau bien chaude avec produit vaisselle, puis assèchement à l'acetone et/ ou ethanol pur, ou isopropanol suffisent normalement... La calibration du plateau indispensable, mais je ne pense pas que ce soit ça... Il fait relativement "froid" dans ta pièce, dont le print refroidit trop vite et se rétracte aussitôt posé. Je suggère de fermer partiellement , mais pas entièrement, ce n'est pas de l'ABS, la machine (facade avec un film plastique, un carton, un plexi) pour éviter l'arrivée d'air trop froid... A gratter aussi... Et à ce moment-là, tu pourras même baisser la température du plateau de 5°
  46. 2 points
    Same thing here on my XY calibration with my UM3 after upgrade to firmware 5.2. I spent hours cleaning print cores thinking something was clogged. The only reason I wanted to do the XY calibration is to address all the other issues I was having after upgrading to "5.2 Stable". Apparently there is no way to roll back the firmware to 3.x without invalidating my warranty on this 2 month old unit. So I am patiently waiting for for firmware 5.3 so I can use my UM3 again. An official response from Ultimaker regarding this firmware upgrade and the plans to address what appears to be multiple issues would be greatly appreciated!
  47. 2 points
    Food and Drug Administration (FDA, « Agence américaine des produits alimentaires et médicamenteux » qui gère aussi les matières utilisées en usage intra ou extra corporel (aciers , plastiques, composites , polymères) a usage chirurgical ou péri- chirurgical. Tous les matériaux que j'utilise pour fabriquer les Dispositif Médicaux doivent, au moins, avoir cette agrégation. C'est le cas de certains PLA, de l'Amphora, ou le "Purement" (Pure Filament) qui a des propriété anti-microbiennes. Pour réussir a imprimer certains de ces machins il faut des réglages spécifiques. Le "Purement" entre autre , demande un nivelage et une température spécifique sinon c'est décollement a coup sur. L'um3 fonctionne parfaitement avec les matériaux dédiées, mais le nivelage auto pour le "purement" est une cata. De mème je bouffe des membranes en silicone et des buses a n'en plus finir (vive 3Dsolex !!!) et les membranes je vais les dégager aussi pour les remplacer par une autre en polymère HT a mémoire de forme de ma composition. IDEX : Indépendant EXTrudder C'est le cas de la SIGMA qui a deux extrudeurs indépendants sur un même axe Ou de la STACKER S4 qui a quatre extrudeurs sur le même axe. L'avantage de ces machines est que les extrudeurs inutilisés vont dans une zone de stockage, avec un bac pour chaque extrudeur destiné a recevoir les suintements. A la sortie de chaque bacs l'extrudeur passe au dessus d'une lame plastique qui vient lécher la buse pour l'essuyer (que j'ai remplacé par une brosse métallique). C'est plus clair comme ça je pense
  48. 2 points
    Hi vwguy16, Just some more info; the two black wires is power for the heater, the two gray wires is going to the PT100 temperature sensor. Both, the heater and the temp sensor is not polarity sensitive, as they are floating from ground. When looking into the printer, the two connecting points to the left is for the heat bed and the two to the right is for the PT100 temperature sensor. Good luck Torgeir-
  49. 2 points
    GR5 I do not want to offend you, but it seems to me that you are not pursuing a good goal - to say that one is better than the other, and give an example of the testing that was. You are an adult and should understand that these are two different approaches to cooling. I will explain to inexperienced people (like you) UM2 (which has been tested) uses cooling on one plate, that is, 1 nozzle through this plate heats the other nozzle. DXU uses a separate cooling system for each nozzle. There is a separate radiator. Such a system costs UM3 and S5, and the temperature of the first or second nozzle is not connected to each other. I think for a full understanding, you can just say that the cooling system costs from UM3 for cooling radiators I recommend Sunon fans Gm0502PEV1 selected 1 means flow rate 1 strongly 3 weakly there is also a fan Sunon 1 cm thick but pay attention to 1 at the end. And yes, I am very grateful to everyone who worked on the project MARK2 and DXU for the work done and the work.
  50. 2 points

    Version 1.0.0

    245 downloads

    Here is my full size Velociraptor skeleton. Juste made for the challenge. Lenght: ~180cm Sculpted with Zbrush. Total printing time: ~392h. Printer: Ultimaker2+ Filament: PLA Speed: 30mm/s - 50mm/s Nozzle: 0,4mm Layers: 0,15mm Painting : acrylic paint (spray and brushe)
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