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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/09/2019 in all areas

  1. Hi guys! Happy to share my new work! I have modeled and printed a plaster figure prototype, from which I will be able to take off the uniform and cast copies for my big architecture project! In order to do this, I had scanned the original plaster figure using the 3D scanner. Then I corrected the model, removed all the chips and flaws of the original and printed it out using white PLA SnowFlake plastic on a Ultimaker 3D printer. Layer thickness 0.1 mm. The photo on the left is the original, and on the right you can see the printed model. What do you think abo
    3 points
  2. Hi, after many hours and prototypes my RC Mini Jet Boat is ready and online. You could find the files as download on https://cults3d.com/en/users/jtronics Follow us on Cults3d and on Youtube to get notice of our New Uploads!
    3 points
  3. Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support.
    1 point
  4. Hello @cerons, it's hard to tell looking at your images exactly what is wrong. My first guess is that the model is too thin compared to the line widths, layer height, etc. It would help a lot if you could save the project file (File -> Save) and attach the .3mf file to this thread. Thanks.
    1 point
  5. I once got wounded by a tiny 50mm computerfan running at overspeed, so the blades were ripped off and flew all across the room. And that was a standard injection moulded glassfiber reinforced nylon fan... (It was running *way* overspeed...) So, 3D-printing any propeller- or turbine-like blades looks like a risky business to me. Airplane propellers and turbines are carefully X-rayed for cracks and voids. FDM 3D-prints are by concept full of such "cracks" due to the way the molten "sausages" are laid down. Also, the surface of the blades needs to be very smooth to get a good airflow,
    1 point
  6. @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
    1 point
  7. @ultradryan If it's this issue, the upcoming 4.2 release will fix this.
    1 point
  8. HiHO Solche Verfärbungen kommen durch Spannungen im Material, mir der Nozzel Temperatur und und Flussgeschwindigkeit kannst du das verändern. Aber weine leichte Verfärbung vor allem bei Schwarz ist normal. Bearbeiten kannst du die Flächsen am einfachsten mit einem Dremel, aber wenn du einmal damit anfängst musst du meistens das ganze Teil bearbeiteten. Sehr Praktisch dafür ist auch noch Dickschichtfüllen aus der Autoindustrie. Grüsse zpm3atlantis
    1 point
  9. You usually see swelling like that when your front fan isn't running strongly enough (or at all). It can get tiny filament hairs wrapped around it that choke the fan motor. Have you cleaned the fan with tweezers recently? https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52501-check-for-residue-in-the-front-fan-of-the-print-head
    1 point
  10. I cannot speak about the TAZ, but I have 3 Ultimaker printer, Um2Go, UM3 and S5 and can say they are all very reliable. Also the switch is very durable, no problems at all and I also haven't heard any problems from others. So don't worry, this lifting mechanism just works. Of course it is a bit time consuming, but with a dual print you want a good and clean result and if you enable a prime tower too for example to wipe you nozzle, then the switching time is negligible. I would not buy a printer which doesn't lift the unused nozzle, to avoid scratches or other accidents during the print.
    1 point
  11. Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.
    1 point
  12. I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else. The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan,
    1 point
  13. I assume you don't mean that question too serious, do you? Technically, if someone would answer such a question with a date it would be wrong by the same moment as giving a date for an announcement would be a de-facto announcement. 😉 If you ask this because you don't want to check every day, keep in mind how Ultimaker announced their new stuff in the past. Usually it was presented on a larger trade show or some time in advance of such a show. But be aware that not for every trade show Ultimaker participates they announce something new. So if you still don't know if and when Ulti
    1 point
  14. This issue was causing my hotend to pause long enough to start damaging the build surface. I had to cancel the prints, and even after cancelling, it took an odd amount of time for the printer to become responsive again and move the z-axis up and away from the build surface being melted. I couldn't figure out why it was doing it and it was driving me nuts. I often use octoprint, but tried to print straight from microSD, and both methods had the same issue. For some reason, I didn't immediately think, "hey, maybe the slicer software I just updated today might be the issue..." After s
    1 point
  15. The experimental 'Tree Support' so far may have been buggy and slow, but already quite useful. Now when test driving 4.1 I couldn't help but notice that slicing with tree support enabled easily takes twice as long compared to 4.0! The support trees look pretty much unchanged... This doesn't seem right? BTW seeing this slowdown on an Ubuntu Linux 18.04 / AMD Ryzen system.
    1 point
  16. Having similar problems, except it pausing multiple times on the same layer, it stops after the skirt, and after each individual part layer is finished. Just ran an stl sliced with 4.0 and it prints fine. Sliced with a PC and running thru Octopi. PI3_moat.gcode
    1 point
  17. -- IC INFO ------------------------------ # IC manufacturer: NXP Semiconductors # IC type: NTAG216 -- NDEF ------------------------------ # No NDEF data storage populated: -- EXTRA ------------------------------ # Memory size: 888 bytes user memory * 222 pages, with 4 bytes per page # IC detailed information: Full product name: NT2H1611G0DUx Capacitance: 50 pF # Version information: Vendor ID: NXP Type: NTAG Subtype: 50 pF Major version: 1 Minor version: V0 Storage size: 888 bytes Protocol: ISO/IEC 14443-3 # Configuration information: UID ASCII mirror enabled: * Page 0x0B, byte offset
    1 point
  18. Really Like the Concept might get around to trying it when time allows.
    1 point
  19. Version 1.0

    2,185 downloads

    Here's a project that I've been working on for some years now with my good friend Darren. Our goal is to make the most accurate plans of the Eagle Transporter from the series Space 1999 from Gerry Anderson ( also creator of Thunderbirds ) This will be the studio scale version, and when ready it will be 44" or 111.76 cm
    1 point
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