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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/11/2019 in all areas

  1. @BiMNrd the skirt lets you visually confirm that your bed is level and that a good initial layer is being laid down. If the skirt looks much thinner on one area, that is a good indication the bed is too high (too close to nozzle) in that area
    2 points
  2. Wow, that's an interesting long time project and very well done so fare.
    1 point
  3. @BiMNrd Yes and no, you will already have a like brim created by the base of the PVA - you use the pla skirt to extrude some material before the pla print starts, so you can check if it extrudes correctly and to clean the core of pla residue - hope this makes sense.
    1 point
  4. There is actually a problem in 5.4, with the retract or too long retract at the end of a job. Seems not to happen every time, but there are some users which have reported it. The result of this bug is, that when starting a new print, the filament isn't transported far enough to extrude at the beginning. But I don't know if it is a mistake or if it is really a planned roll back. But it can't hurt to go back to 5.2.11.
    1 point
  5. Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
    1 point
  6. For my (older) UM2 and PLA and PET materials, 25...30mm/s is slow enough to get good quality. At 50mm/s (default for PLA) quality is okay for most models, but not optimal for high details. Printing at 10mm/s is too slow: then the material is sitting too long in the nozzle and it starts to discolor and decompose (gets brown). It also depends on the temperature. Lower speed gives less ringing, cleaner corners, and better layer bonding. I would say, make a small test model with your typical features, and print that at various speeds and temperatures, and closely watch what
    1 point
  7. Thanks. Good observation. On the front housing, there are two bores to restrain the hotend for xy precision, one is above the heatsink and spring, the other is around the bowden coupler. Both bores have teeth around them so it's easier for the hotend to slide. I made the tolerance quite tight and use a drill to spin the hotend inside the housing to run-in. It's metal vs plastic so they fit quite well without being all fixed. I agree that it's not as precise as UM3's tapered socket solution, technically. But I think it's good enough for 3D printing purpose if fitted well, just like
    1 point
  8. Nous avons pu faire des tests, donc je viens donner la réponse à ma question. Le PLA, le PETG et l'ABS ont tous les 3 fait l'affaire. ils n'ont pas bougé et ont résisté les dizaines de minute de l'expérience.
    1 point
  9. Version 1.0

    1,716 downloads

    Ultibot head toilet roll holder
    1 point
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