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I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?

Du findest alle GUIDs hier in den einzelnen Files: https://github.com/Ultimaker/fdm_materials Und das müssten sie für die generischen Materialen sein: ABS: 60636bb4-518f-42e7-8237-fe77b194ebe0CPE: 12f41353-1a33-415e-8b4f-a775a6c70cc6CPE+: e2409626-b5a0-4025-b73e-b58070219259PLA: 506c9f0d-e3aa-4bd4-b2d2-23e2425b1aa9Nylon: 28fb4162-db74-49e1-9008-d05f1e8bef5cPC: 98c05714-bf4e-4455-ba27-57d74fe331e4PP: aa22e9c7-421f-4745-afc2-81851694394aPVA: 86a89ceb-4159-47f6-ab97-e9953803d70fTPU 95A: 1d52b2be-a3a2-41de-a8b1-3bcdb5618695

The first is typical if a section breaks away. All further layers printed over that area are printing on air, producing spaghetti or birds nests... the second looks about normal for PVA.

Glad to hear I could help.

After a bit of a struggle I can now build Cura development releases for Windows based on PyQt 5.13 (PyQt 5.10 is used for my earlier releases). Those of you having problems running the Ultimaker releases (e.g. no window appearing) may wish to try my latest (1012) build just in case the more recent PyQt fixes any of the issues. It can be installed alongside the Ultimaker releases without conflict. As always, releases are provided with no warranty, YMMV. You can find them at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 All feedback is welcome, please comment on this thread if you try this release.

Il faudra désormais attendre la fête de la science en novembre à La Réunion. Mais j'essayerai d'y penser.

The only suggestion I wanted to make is that you go for the cheapest as both types will work. As GR5 says, the old one delivers a bit more power but we as Ultimaker are not allowed to sell it anymore with new printers. The newer type is a bit more environmental friendly and will save a few cents in electricity.

I had a long look into this problem, but it is a difficult one to tackle since I can't reproduce it myself. My feeling is that the problem is caused by a sequence of actions involving the combination of manual leveling and Active Leveling. In the V5.0 release for the S5 we completely overhauled the Active Leveling software. Since the S5 build plate is larger than for the UM3 the undulations became too big to be solved with a simple 3-point leveling, that's why we introduced the grid based probing. The probing algorithm itself was also rewritten to be more accurate and faster. The v5.2 release integrated the UM3 and S5 to be one software package again which for the UM3 has a lot of changes under the hood that you won't see but will be beneficial like: - A year of software development, including lots of bug fixes. - A new Linux version - A new file system on the internal Flash memory for improved long term stability - The overhauled Active Leveling - A much improved version of Cura Connect, including Cloud connection - etc But.... for the users in this thread the v5.2 firmware breaks Active Leveling on the right print core. And I can't reproduce it which annoys me a lot after all the time I spent looking for the cause. The problem seems to be caused by switching between manual and Active Leveling. Could one (or more) of you please sent me the log files from your printer when it fails? Sent the files to me by private email (hover your mouse on my name avatar picture, a pop-up will show with email option). Add a short description of what you did and what you saw happen.

When my trick didn't fix the problem then I assume the power supply is damaged and you best replace it. There are several compatible power supplies: Mean Well GS220A24-R7B is the older model Mean Well GST220A24-R7B is the current model which complies to the latest regulations regarding efficiency and EMC radiation but has a slightly stricter output capacity (the load variation range is more limited). Both models will do the job, except that companies are not allowed to sell the older model anymore for new products. You as a consumer can buy the cheapest one you can find. As reference, here in Europe the new model is sold for €63 excl. VAT.

There's 2 ways to fix this. One is to just turn off leveling. It's really a waste of your time as manual leveling is so simple and easy and you only have to do it when you swap out cores and usually not even then. If the nozzle levels too close usually it's because the spring in the core is weaker versus the spring in the bed. You need the core spring stronger because the leveling doesn't know you've hit the bed until it starts moving so if the core moves first then there is a problem. So loosen those 3 springs by turning the 3 knobs about 5 or 10 turns CCW (as seen from below). That might be too loose to level but try that first and do a manual level (mandatory if you move those screws that much) and then see if auto level is better after that. Don't loosen them too much. Another solution is to remove the "bad" core. Remove that one screw in the clear plastic part, take the spring out and stretch it such that it is about 5mm longer. Put it all back together and it will work great for another few years.

A printer rebooting during the build plate heating up is almost certain a power supply problem. During the first phase of heating up, till about 50C, the power supply is stretched to its limits. Since everything was working smoothly before and now not anymore, what did you change with respect to the power supply block? Did you perhaps switch the power supply block with that from another printer? Did the ambient temperature in the room change? Perhaps the power supply block gets warm because it is now in the sun or next to an active heater? When nothing was changed and none of the above questions applies, then perhaps you have a power supply block that's at the lower end of the specifications. Contact your reseller if warranty applies. There is also a software workaround when you are brave enough to change a configuration file on the printer... - Enable developer mode from the menu - Open an SSH connection to the printer - log in as root / ultimaker - type: vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json - Scroll down to line 102 - Change the maximum power supply wattage from 221 to 200 (first press the 'insert' key to be able to insert new text). - exit the editor by typing after each other the 4 keys: 'ESC : w q' - exit the SSH connection by typing: exit - reboot the printer