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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Your are cumulating lots of oproblems. - STOP printing at these T° with your stock printer ! As you have already done it, your bowden tube must be replaced. remove if and you will see that the end part that touch the nozzle is in bad shape. cut this part (perpendicularly !) I don't have a Cr-10 but an ultimaker original and an ender that is pretty the same as the CR10. If you change the hotend, you will need : - to make adjustement in the firmware (to reach 250/260°C) - to run a PID tuning (use pronterface) Why do you write your own Gcode ? use Cura (it's free). Print speed 25mm/s low speed doens't mean you won't wear your nozzle ! And this ultra low speed will cause you other problems (filement is made to melt a little, with 2mm/sec, your filament stay TOOOO LONG in the nozzle ! stick: use a PEI Sheet. I strongly advice you to watch these youtube channels : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsdc_0ZTXikARFEn2dRDJhg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbgBDBrwsikmtoLqtpc59Bw https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1Ak7Ir1WMOWauY_oH00-Qg (and look for LUKE'S manual for mounting ender3, preety the same for CR-10) https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCiczXOhGpvoQGhOL16EZiTg https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCrFGsH4pplqjFXJqLcjykNQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDk3ScYL7OaeGbOPdDIqIlQ https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPFChjpOgkUqckj3378jt5w in these channels you will find ALL THE ANSWERS you need to understand where you problems come from and how to solve it. it will take you a long time by it's worse the effort 😉 My advice : First you need to repair your printer: it's damaged as you have printed at a too high T° => cut your bowden tube (or better, buy a capricorn tube with the pliers that cuts perpendicularly) run a few print with PLA at standard T° to check if everything is ok you still want to print XT-CF 20 ? => buy a microswiss hotend => change the firmware ( look at teaching tech videos about it) => run a PID Tuning => proceed to ALL tunings (temperature tower, stringing, dimensionnal accuracy, extruder tuning,...) Then you will have no trouble to print XT-CF20 filament. Low grade ( and even high grade) 3D printers are NOT plug n' play unfortunatly. it requires a tons of tweaking and learning :/
  2. 2 points
    A welcome flow should be handled by adding a machine action, which can be triggered when a machine is added. An example of this can be found in the custom fff printer (custom.def.json). When that is added it always shows the machineSettingsAction (It does this by setting "first_start_actions": ["MachineSettingsAction"]) You could just have a machine action that in itself has a few steps.
  3. 2 points
    Hi everyone, thanks again for your time and patience. I've been at the FormNext show last week, which means I wasn't able to respond as fast as I usually aim to do. Unfortunately we can't commit to a specific date yet. While it is clear what we need to do, it is still being executed and thoroughly tested. If all goes well, it may be before Christmas. If not, it may be after. It goes without saying that we aim to provide everyone with their Ultimaker products as soon as possible. At FormNext we had operational Pro Bundles, which hopefully serves as an indication that we are not far out. But they require a small work-around, which we don't want to push onto our users. You deserve a fully functional Ultimaker product that works as it should, and as you would expect from us.
  4. 2 points
    Ok lets begin then :) Stock mean you didn't make any upgrade on your printer. you didn't change the bowden tube by a quality one (like capricorn), you didn't change the hot end. XT-CF20 needs to be printed with a T° between 250 and 265/270°C depending of your hotend. This IS NOT COMPATIBLE with a CR-10 stock. have a look at the following video . /!\ BEWARE ! THIS IS NOT A FIX TO YOUR PROBLEM /!\ It will explain you a few tips about your hotend. For my part, I didn't made this hotfix: I take care of my hotend and check it every 2 weeks. As you can see, in your hotend, the bowden tube is going down till it touch the nozzle. A bowden tube starts degrading at 245°C, it becomes flexible and dilate itself. the pressure made by your extruder on the filament starts to deform the bowden tube around the nozzle. It causes clogs and underextruding and BIG CLOGS. The only way to print at more than 240°C with a CR-10 like printer is to use another hotend: a "full metal hotend". There are 2 brands well know: Micro swiss (that have hotend compatible directly with CR-10/ender3) and E3D . There are also clones of corse. - If you want to print at more than 240°C, change your hotend - if you want to print hard filament (like Carbon, wood, marble,...) use a hardened nozzle (like Xtra nozzle from E3D, ruby, reinforced steel nozzle,...) or byuy tons of brass nozzle and change it every 500gr printed. (proceed to check and adapt this value)
  5. 1 point
    Hi , I’m on my way to work so soon as I have a chance I will send u those files. Thanks again for getting back to me I really appreciate it.
  6. 1 point
    surly if everything is getting printed too small, wouldn't this be a problem with the x y z calibration of the printer towers rather than the slicer used. (might be talking rubbish here, but just an idea).
  7. 1 point
    Hello all, I have faced the same issue several times and lately became more frequent. I always reset the print head by unplug and plug the cable but the issue appeared again. I figured out a solution for this by designing a cable clip to hold the print head cable vertical at the entrance. I will share the thingiverse link when available.
  8. 1 point
    Hi, Is your CR-10 stock or did you make some upgrade on it ? If it's stock, don't waste your time : XT-CF20 needs to be printed around 250 /260 °C and your bowden tube will start melting causing clog and troubles. I use an E3DV6 hotend on an ultimaker original and it works pretty well (I'm chaning the extruder, the original one is not adapted)
  9. 1 point
    Comme matériaux j'ai: ABS, carbone, Flex, Hips, MET, nylon, PC, PET, PLA, PVA. Je n'ai pas de pierre, mais j'ai du PVA Formfutura "Aquasolve".
  10. 1 point
    If you print at 2mm/sec then you are probably not pushing the filament very hard but yes the CF can destroy your feeder. Fortunately feeders are easy to replace. The symptom will be that it underextrudes when you go back to PLA. If you push the filament hard then the filament is slipping and the CF is grinding down the feeder gear. But if you print at only 2mm/sec then your feeder should last forever even with CF filament. A lot of materials don't do well if you print too slow. They get too hot. The nozzle temp for colorfab XT is supposed to be around 250C.
  11. 1 point
    If you read my last 2-3 postings you'll see I too cleaned the nozzle and MAYBE put it together a little different so it's a little shorter/longer - but that it should have THIS effect is strange I think - TOO I upgrated Cura and now I did it again - updated to 4.4.0 - never do more than ONE change a a time ... but I did and now it works.
  12. 1 point
    Please be more specific. For example: 1) Is it warping off the bed? 2) Is it underextruding? 3) Is it clogging completely? You need the bed to be at 70C. If your printer doesn't have a heated bed then this will be very difficult to print. You need a ruby nozzle (for example see 3dsolex.com everlast nozzles) as the carbon fiber will wear out the tip of your nozzle in just a few hours. You need hardnened steel extruder gears (e.g. see bondtech) as the carbon fiber will wear out (smooth) the extruder splines (or gnurled pattern depending on feeder type) and ruin your feeder.
  13. 1 point
    I believe so, yes. I use them mostly with 0.2mm to 0.3mm layers (for speed). I find if you go thinner than around 0.06mm the visual quality starts to get worse again. The "Z magic number" for all UM printers is 0.04mm which means you get more integral number of Z steps if you print with 0.16 layer height than 0.15 so I recommend 0.16 over 0.15 layer height but it really doesn't seem to matter much and I always forget and have often used 0.15. But more likely 0.2 or 0.3 (0.32 would be smarter).
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