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Hello, Every now and then it is good to run a little survey to get to know our community, who you are and what drives you. I've created a poll which should give us some more insights. If you have any questions or if you want to elaborate on any of the answers you have given, please feel free to write them down below. Thank you for your time!

Hi guys! I'd like to share my new work! I printed a batch of parts with white PLA and assembled them into several scale models of houses. I will use these models in visual planning of residential development. For this job, I used a Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer.

Hi An off topic suggestion: I've done this with a number of printers over the years. Work up to the max speed in steps. Print a couple of throw away parts at each speed. Watch the layer times and hang on to the parts produced. At some point the layer times on practical parts don't change much at all. Also at some point the defects in the objects become bothersome. Just where that happens is very much "that depends". Since this involves varying speed, acceleration, and a few other things, it can get tiresome. The settings interact so simply varying one at a time does not

I didn't get myself anything for Christmas and/or my Birthday (which happened recently). I decided to treat myself finally and finally figured out something I'd really want rather than spending useless money on something. I just picked up 3000 grams (3 Kg) of Polymaker PC-Max - True White for about $150 (roughly with tax included). I would of paid $70x4 (750 grams each - .75 Kg) or about $300 (tax and such) in total for the same amount. I looked through everything to and it was the same 110C rating for heat as well and I think the 112-113 glass transition to as well was

Interesting, I've only done a little mold making myself. Polypropylene is also good for molds as you don't need a release agent. I'm not sure if it would be up to the heat for your task but it would be close. The CNC Kitchen did a video on polypropylene where he boiled water in it in the microwave I believe. Worth a watch if you have some time.

What do you actually use it for? Polypropylene filament will have a much higher impact strength than polycarbonate. It can handle heat decently as well. It is more flexible but that can be offset by thickness/geometry depending on your application. Alternatively you can purchase Polymaker PolyMax and save the Ultimaker rebranding cost. I don't really think ABS has much of a place anymore as far as being the best material for an application as there are so many options now.

These are the ones I finally ended up with for the SnapMaker A350. Though I'm probably going to drop the "G28" from the Start code - as the SnapMaker does a quick calibration on every print and leaves the head in a known location.

In the very beginning, on one of my UM2 printers, I had the Z-axis moving down a couple of times during long prints, due to overheating and temporarilty shutting down of the drivers. In mid-print it would fall down 5mm, and then continue printing as if nothing had happened. This was only on long prints, or very intensive use all day. I never had it on the X- or Y-axis, but I can imagine that it is possible too. In my case the solution was to reduce current through the stepper motors. Since then, it never happened again in all those years. If I remember well this was done on the pri

Ich denke der Kommentar von schnixx war ein klitzekleines bisschen sarkastisch zu verstehen. Gehen wir an die Fakten: Du willst POM drucken und hast Warping. Weitere Infos gibst du nicht preis, auch wenn dxp danach gefragt hat. Wenn es mein Thema wäre, dann hätte ich mal die groben Temp Parameter, Oberfläche der Druckplatte, Bilder der Teile etc. geschickt und nicht einfach geschrieben: Ich hab alles ausprobiert, es hält nichts. Jetzt kannst ja nochmal überlegen ob wir dir helfen sollen, oder nicht. Falls ja, dann brauchen wir mehr In

Wie zuvor angegeben habe ich bisher beim Bondtech DDG Extruder mit 322 Steps/mm gedruckt. Die Drucke sahen immer sehr ordentlich aus, nur hatten sie generell ein wenig Übermaß. Mehr oder weniger zufällig habe ich folgendes kleines Teil zum Extrusion Test gefunden. Druckt man zwei Teile und sind diese maßhaltig, passen sie perfekt zusammen. Fast edge over/under extrusion test www.thingiverse.com/thing:1622868 Mit meinen 322 Steps/mm hatte die "Nase" von dem Teil 10.07 mm (soll 10 mm). Nachdem ich die Steps schrittweise auf die vom Herstel

- Edit - Erledigt, da Du ja schon alles ausprobiert hast.

If you want to know more about Cura (and the settings) I definitely recommend the setting guide plugin in Cura. It's written by one of our slicer engineers in his free time and it has a lot of information about all the features / settings that Cura has to offer. In quite a few cases, it also provides images (or even videos) to show the difference a setting can make.

I took a look at the file. It is a well built model. Turning off "Union Overlapping Volumes" left the internal voids intact.