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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/19/2020 in all areas

  1. As far as I know unfortunately not... I have allready seen a post about this but it seem's not to be in ultimakers idea rigth now. This would be great as it would act like a mini material station. For the people who don't have budget for a S5 Pro or allready do have a S3 (with some options a UM3 would be doable) it could be a nice feature. As a workaround you could split your design in two halves and join them like you would do for a multicolor print. But this solution is far less convinient as the one you sugest. Edit: here is the other topic speaking aboit this f
    2 points
  2. I was referring to the squishing of the filament indeed. I have two older UM2 printers with manual bed-adjustment, and I adjust it closer, so it is squished more. I prefer a nice glossy bottom, even if that causes a little bit of "elephant feet" sometimes. Not only does that stick better, but it makes watermark text in transparent materials (=inside the model, close to the bottom) easier to read. In Cura, I usually set the first layer to 0.2mm. This too helps in giving a flatter bottom than 0.3mm, and gives better bonding. I have no experience with UM3 or newer, so I ca
    1 point
  3. Hi OK this is what I did and it's fixed my problem. Measure from the edge of your frame at each of the arrows. Making sure measurements are the same at each end of your guide rails. Make adjustment of each axis as required This should make sure your rails are perfectly straight. Alternatively, you could download and print an alignment tool like this.. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2862274 Hope this helps
    1 point
  4. Thanks Markus, that was a helpful reply. I've also recently recommended the S5 to my company. We had some crashing/freezing issues with 2 printers, all seemingly related to Wi-Fi / internet, which was restricted due to company policy. With the Wi-Fi off, the printer is now operating as it should, and I'm very satisfied with it. It's not my intention to mod the printer, but I would like to be able to maintain it, replace parts as needed, etc. Your experience tells me that this is possible without affecting print quality or causing permanent damage. It's good to know that the S5 is r
    1 point
  5. It's a great idea to want to help. There are some 3D printing related organizations out there geared towards helping children using 3D printing. I haven't worked firsthand with either of these (other people on the forum may have firsthand knowledge), but a couple of organizations for making prosthetic arms for kids in need come to mind. These are two I've heard of Enable and Limbitless Solutions.
    1 point
  6. Thank you SO much for helping with this, ahoeben. I did get it to work once I'd realized that Mac OS was hiding the additional extensions. It would be so nice if the actual Cura profile could save directly in .hvs. I feel like that would be an easy edit to make to the code of the existing profile, but I've not worked with these profiles before and wouldn't know where to start.
    1 point
  7. The file you posted looks like a normal gcode file to me. The only thing that makes it a little special is the very first line of the file. Could you try the following: * slice a file with Cura * save it as a .gcode file * rename it to .hvs (make sure it does not become .hvs.gcode!) * open the file in a text editor (eg notepad) * as the very first line, insert the following: M911 3DP-310F * save the file and try to print it
    1 point
  8. Hey! The plugin has been updated for Cura 4.4+ and a bug has been fixed. If the document (part, assembly or drawing) is already opened in Inventor, the document won't be closed anymore. There was already a check for it before, which was (it seems) not fully tested by me. Therefore, the check gave wrong info and leaded to this issue. Enjoy!
    1 point
  9. Bath interferometers. I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors. They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester. These can test to almost 1/1000 of a wavelength of light although having the mirror within 1/10 of a wave is more than good enough. Basically anything in the photo you suspect is 3d printed - is 3d printed. The screwdriver is not and the tripod that holds it is not. Everything else plastic is 3d printed. Mostly PLA, some parts on the interferometer itself are nylon as they need to ben
    1 point
  10. Hello Patrice I had provided a link to thingiverse where I explain there how to proceed,. anyway I'll put here an extract from that I published there. The solution I had conceived consist in a zip file having a set of definition (json) and configuration (cfg) files whose has to be copied accordingly into the CURA 4.2.1 installation directories; after that, when we restart ULTIMAKER CURA and we intend to add a new 3D printer it will include, below its “Add a non-network printer” list, a radio button for CreatBot-DX as choice. Once installed, CURA 4.2.1 stores all p
    1 point
  11. Salut a tous, je viens de recevoir ma UM2+ ext.🤪 Et j'aurais voulu m'équiper d'un capot pour imprimer de l'ABS. Cependant j'ai tout l'outillage pour concevoir ce type de pièce au lab. Je cherche donc les plans de découpe laser du plexi ainsi que les CAO des charnières et autres pièces de montage. Savez-vous si ultimaker a partagé ces documents ou si un maker a pris l'initiative de faire cela ? Merci beaucoup. Léo.
    1 point
  12. Version 2.0.0

    125 downloads

    A filament guide which can adapt itself to different diameters and widths of the spool. Improvements to the first version: - The version 2 (the white parts on the pictures) can now catch and release the filament without pulling it back. - Thanks to a snap connection between the holder and the sphere no glue is required anymore.
    1 point
  13. Version 1.0

    5,695 downloads

    This is a well known vase printed in Blue Lagoon from Faberdashery (very nice). It's printed with my Ultimaker 2 modified with the Olsson Block and a 1mm nozzle from www.3dSolex.com. Printed in Spiralize mode with a 1mm wall, and 0.5mm layers! It's very fast, around 1h25 to print at full height (200mm). Watch the video! I'll do a complete review soon on this nozzle
    1 point
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