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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/28/2020 in all areas

  1. Printed a bracket in PA-GF to mount a controller in my glovebox of my car. It clips into existing holes in the glovebox and blends in quite nicely.
    2 points
  2. Ultimaker Cura has hundreds of configurable slicing settings in custom mode. If you mouse hover over a particular setting, a description of what the setting does will appear. You can also search for a particular setting using the search bar to get what you need quickly and easily. In an upcoming release, we've also made each setting's description searchable for more ease-of-use. @ghostkeeper has also made a plugin that you can download from the Ultimaker Marketplace that adds even more description to each setting. BUT: Are there settings n
    1 point
  3. In the Cura help menu -> "Report a bug" (there you can also place feature requests)
    1 point
  4. Glad you have solved the issue. Even though I suggested that it was the heated bed that was the cause of the problem, I don't really understand the mechanism of failure here. What did the gross over/under shooting of the bed temp actually do?
    1 point
  5. Wow. MAJOR brain fart on my part and I should have known better. I made the setting visible and it was indeed checked. After UN-checking and re-slicing, I get exactly what I was after. To make matters worse, I sliced this same piece for printing on a different printer, and the towers were not present. At that point I was fairly certain it was a slicer setting, but a the time I did not have time to investigate and it slipped my mind. So thank you very much for resolving my issue.
    1 point
  6. This is something where the Cura team can improve the software as this problem is well known and often reported since Adaptive Layer was implemented. 🙂 I don't want to complain, but find it remarkable that Slic3r can do that easily (they implement it 2017). Cura implement it, but isn't able to summarize layer heights correctly. I know, easy to say, but how long exist Cura 4? And there is no time and/or priority to correct this software failure - the only thing that a FDM-Printer can easily achieve in exactness and the slicer isn't able to do it. I am still hoping t
    1 point
  7. Adaptive layers does not take the height of the object into account. it only uses the curvature to calculate what the best layer height is.
    1 point
  8. I can also tell you something about the rationale; With a 0.25 nozzle and 0.06 layerheight, the steps that the feeder would need to make get really, really small. So small that it will start to cause artifacts in your print. So as much as we tried, we really couldn't get the 0.06 profiles to work in a way that was anyway better than the 0.1 ones, so that's why they didn't make it (because it does take a lot longer to print)
    1 point
  9. There is even more to do for controlling the bed heater. Bang-Bang-Control or PID-Control and setting PWM frequency for the SSR. https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_bed_heater#Section_Bed_heater_driven_using_a_Solid_State_Relay
    1 point
  10. Statt Raft ist Brim ebenfalls eine gute Variante. Bei PETG auf die Bett-Temperatur, Druckgeschwindigkeit für den ersten Layer und Lüfter achten. Für den 1. Layer setze die Druckgeschwindigkeit eher in Richtung Hälfte der normalen Druckgeschwindigkeit und Lüfter aus. Bei problematischen Teilen (wie z. B. spitze Winkel und 90° Ecken) kann man sich bei eigenen Konstruktionen kleine Eselsohren als Brim-Ersatz hinzufügen. Das ist sehr hilfreich, falls ein Brim für saubere Außenkanten problematisch ist. Bezüglich Tisch gibt es ebenfalls noch einen weiteren Punkt, die Rollen betreffe
    1 point
  11. PR created, https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine/pull/1301
    1 point
  12. You are setting the maximum variation to .16 and that is the problem. 🙂 What does this mean for your layer hight? You are advising Cura explicit to variate your normal layer hight of 0.2 mm between 0.36 mm (0.2 mm + 0.16 mm) and 0.04 mm (0.2 mm - 0.16 mm). So said, if you don't want to have a smaller max layer hight, you need to reduce this value. In addition you maybe want also change the original layer hight to a value that match to your needs. E.g. when you want a max layer hight of 0.2 mm and a max. variation of +/- 0.5 mm the matching regular layer hight should be 0.15 mm.
    1 point
  13. That setting that you are looking at is only to make "use towers" setting visible in the custom settings menu in cura. It's not telling you that the setting is off or on. If you click that box then you will be able to see it when adjusting the print settings and be able to turn it off there. This helps you set up the printer settings menu so it only shows settings that you want to adjust. Which can be very helpful. You can also search these hidden settings (ones you haven't ticked in setting visibility) in the search bar at the top of the settings list.
    1 point
  14. The problem shouldn't come from the SSR. 220 V Silicone heating pad? This looks more like the temperature is over- and undershooting too much. How is your setup for temperature control?
    1 point
  15. Raue Oberfläche. weniger reflektion des Lasers - mehr Leistung CF brennt wie Zunder. Daher der Einbrand. Das mit dem Colorfabb Filament klingt nett. Dazu, vielleicht bekannt. Es gibt handelsüblich CO2-, Dioden- und Faserlaser. Jeder dieser Laser hat eine andere Wellenlänge und arbeitet daher anders. Zum Beschriften eignen sich Faserlaser am besten. Das Video zeigt so einen Faserlaser. Die Teile sind nicht gerade ein Schnäppchien. Dafür können die , je nach Material, auch in Multicolor-Lasern. Ich Laser manchmal. Aber Beschriften tue ich eigentlich nie. Meiste
    1 point
  16. Thank you, I was deleting the C:\ProgramFiles\Ultimaker Cura 4.6 folder and I did not see the appdata/cura folder. I deleted this folder and apparently that is where the error was. Cura works again. Thank you sir.
    1 point
  17. My experience is similar: print as slow and as cool as you can, and in thin layers. Also try the opposite, print fast, hot, and in thick layers, and see how that works. By exagerrating (here in the wrong direction) you get a better understanding of the effects of these settings. Stay with the printer and watch what happens. You can also adjust settings (speed, temp, flow rate,...) on the fly up and down, to see how they affect the print. Keep watching it: this gives a lot of understanding. Obviously do this on small test pieces that don't take too much time and material
    1 point
  18. There is a post of me with more tips for single nozzle - single material supports, but I can't immediately find it. Anyway, here a few of my standard pics with tips: Tiny custom support of 10mm wide (dark blue) for the overhang. Ribs on top (0.5mm) allow tighter gaps, but still prevent the support from sticking too hard. Supports as thin layers, not connected. When printing they will sag a bit, but can be peeled off one by one. Usefullness depends on the model. Free hanging support concept for overhangs. The inverted staircase reduces
    1 point
  19. I have received some questions about this form and it might be good to clarify that nothing will be published or shared without your approval. We understand that when you use 3D printing professionally, company policies may apply to you where you can not be making statements on behalf of a company. That shouldn't be a problem. We can leave the company name out and share your story or quote on behalf of you, the user. Obviously, if you are just a happy customer without a story to share, please drop a message below and let us know why 🙂
    1 point
  20. I thought for a second I was looking at the Eventuri business case again! Did you needed to repair or did you boost its performance?
    1 point
  21. That's not good. That just speeds things up. This is called stringing and you shouldn't get any stringing for most filaments including PLA. I find white PLA (and all white filaments) string more than others but I usually get zero stringing. Settings that affect stringing: retraction - you want to retract just enough to relieve the pressure without letting any air into the nozzle. Around 4-8mm for bowden printers (more for longer bowdens) and around 2mm for direct driver printers. Temperature - lower temperature is better - more viscous - less leaking
    1 point
  22. Hi, I wonder if it is related to the heated bed temperature. Could you please try a PLA print with the bed much cooler, i.e. 30 rather than 70 and see if the spacing of that pattern changes. If I am right, I would expect the problem layers to be further apart compared to the part printed with a bed temp of 70. Thanks.
    1 point
  23. Printed a new air intake for my car. Has a bracket that screw onto the engine to secure it. Printed on the Ultimaker S5 in PA-CF and painted so it doesn't absorb oils and dirt.
    1 point
  24. Team, First and foremost I wanted to thank you all for being so patient with me in working through this. I am grateful Ultimaker has such a great community that people would go out of their way to help strangers. That said, here is the print from the second printer - same exact settings. Both printers were bought used from the same ex-retailer. Belts have been tightened and greased. Build plate screws are in and stable - I manually level it and active leveling is on. I will film a few layers and see if that answers any questions. I have tried pri
    1 point
  25. So I made a nice pic to illustrate this concept of lubricating the bearings of old fans. This is a 386-computer fan, not an Ultimaker fan, but the concept is the same. I have done several of these in the old days. Feel with your fingernail where the edge of the bearing is. Mark this with a pen if necessary (see red circle here). Then inject a little drop near the top (thus near what would be the top after mounting it again). A little drop, not a whole syringe: you don't want it to spill oil on the glass and destroy bonding. Somewhat thicker bearing oil works best in my experience.
    1 point
  26. There is a way to print in the order you want and its pretty simple in cura. All you have to do place the items closest to the "scan line" and it will print in that order. Let me explain: Cura basically "scans" your bed from left to right. Whenever the "scan line" touches an object it gets recorded to be printed 1st. To print the second object just move it 0.1 mm to the right from the first object and it will get printed second no matter where on the bed it is.
    1 point
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