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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/24/2020 in all areas

  1. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  2. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  3. Wir drücken die Daumen, haben im Lockdown eh nicht viel zu tun 🙂
    1 point
  4. Well, rule N°One on these forums , When @ahoeben say's something it's true. So yes in Cura you can print something from an Image even if it's not the best solution.
    1 point
  5. Really? The v1.5.7 is such a piece of crap it can't even switch on the heated bed? Okay according to here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB it can switch up to 55 amps! That's over 1000 watts. I don't think you need a relay - just hook it straight up. A more serious issue is how many ohms is this heated bed. Heated beds are all a fixed resistance and the wattage depends on the voltage. I'm guessing you have a 24V supply. So for example if it's 200W at 18 volts then that means your heated bed is 1.62 ohms and at 24V that is 355 Watts. So hopefully y
    1 point
  6. @Cuq, it looks old because I haven't updated the master branch. Find the most recent artifacts here. You can see which branch they are associated with on the right. Find 'ArcWelder' or 'ArcWelder.exe' in the bin folder of the zip and run with the --help flag for documentation. Let me know how it goes!
    1 point
  7. I'm sorry I can no longer help. I just deciphered your screen name and I'm a Goldwing guy. If I was inclined to help (which I'm most assuredly not), I'd say to check things like "initial layer line width %" or maybe "initial layer flow". Maybe it's something simple like you accidentally deleted the Minus sign. I searched through the settings for "initial" but nothing much came up that would cause elephant's foot. Sometimes when using a brim 1 stripe of plastic will stick to the bottom of the model and make it look like elephant's foot. Check initial layer bed temp a
    1 point
  8. Hi, You can turn developer mode on and off via the printer's display (in the settings menu). Depending on whether you have an Ultimaker 3, S3 or S5 it'll be in a different location in the menu structure. Chris
    1 point
  9. Es gibt doch schwarzes HIPS z.B. von Formfutura, welches du dann in D-Limonene auflösen kannst. Dann gibt es noch spoolWorks Scaffold, das gibt es auch in dunkel und ist wasserlöslich.
    1 point
  10. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Profiles-&-Settings
    1 point
  11. As far as I know, currently not. The mobile app only notifies you about the start and the end of a print job, but not about an error. Ultimaker is aware about that, so I am sure they work on a solution.
    1 point
  12. Bye bye soft and hello shiny lol! However the soft coating felt really nice like silk or satin or something, very smooth to the touch! I have 2 more skulls to play with, The shinyness really brings out the subtle imperfections! This is because im not dipping and only light brushing trying to maintain maximum detail. A long dip would sort out most layer lines but at the cost of sharp corners and subtle cavitities.gonna try a blue patina one next. They always look sexy but decay real fast if not sealed right!!! I may have to do a terminator skull next...
    1 point
  13. This the third object I've printed, the spiral vase! Very happy with it, all default settings, no support, UltiM white PLA, 200microns and no infill. 99% scale at 198mm, 6h 50min print time
    1 point
  14. Thanks, I'm attaching few pics. You will find some answers to your question. basically, - I created a internal shell ( few parts that have been glue, screwed). This shell replaces the initial aesthetic cover of the machine. - I have slightly reworked the chassis of the machine, mainly to accommodate the button on the side. - Built up a support (wood) to strongly maintain the whole in place for the molding process - assembled the mold, mainly using MDF wood (straight). The frontal face has been printed to give the rounded shape. Tape has been used to coat the vari
    1 point
  15. Hi guys, I'm new to the community. I'm enjoying my ultimaker 2+ since couple of year now. This machine is super great and I never stop experiencing to get the most of it. Not easy to follow up though with all the updates, new material and stuff. But love this. I' using mostly my ultimaker to build mold therefore I'm not that into the detail of the best finishing of my prints. I use mostly the most rapid execution possible. here an example of my recent creation. It's a fully functional coffee machine based on Nespresso Essenza mini. ( I Love coffee) I have created a
    1 point
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