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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/20/2021 in all areas

  1. Nice! Do you have an undercarriage with electronics and motor already? Anyway, here's a print from my side. It's actually one print. Wooden parts: 0.8mm PLA with Natural Wood "Metal" parts: .25 nozzle, Tough PLA. All the parts were printed on one S5 plate with dual extrusion. So you basically print a DIY model kit. It's 12cm long like this. 🙂
    2 points
  2. Ok pas grave je vais voir merci pour vos conseils @darkdvd et @lekid 😁 !
    1 point
  3. Oh I wasnt aware that you have saved the settings in another menu, now the homer actually sees the offsets
    1 point
  4. HI @tinkergnome - Thank you for clarifying 🙂 I have been thinking about changing the Firmware, but as I am still quite new to this, I suppose it is better to stick with the UM firmware. Hoping to upgrade to the 3S soon, I can really use the dual extrusion function with the type of parts I print. Especially soluble support. Just a bit out of my price range at the moment mainly due to the very weak performance of our currency vs US$. Enjoy the rest of your day! Friedl.
    1 point
  5. The Ultimaker profiles are, since we test them. We obviously don't test every single combination of settings out there, so we cant guarantee that all of them work (There are literally billions of combinations possible). The non ultimaker profiles are not tested or created by us. We get them via contributions in most cases from comunity members. Since we don't have those printers or the capacity to test them in the same way as our own printers (and very little incentive to either get the printers or capacity), those profiles might be of a lower quality.
    1 point
  6. Good questions! Hopefully you'll find some help here. I'll also share this with our product experts if they have any input.
    1 point
  7. TBH: I never found my way in meshmixer. I guess, i simply can't get the concept. Blender is easier to learn... 🙂 Here's a version with closed bottom (and all duplicate vertices merged together): TriconeDrillBit_closed_bottom.zip
    1 point
  8. Hi @KaraokeAmerica, I've been a little busy lately.. About the size in Mb for the stl file to be printed by Cura, hmm I'll think I've never seen any max value set, but if you have a PC with the right performance it can be high.. However, I would say that 500 Mb is huge for normal 3D printing.. I've seen your model, but there was no slicing data or printer type in your file, just the object. When you upload a project file, you will see that your default printer change to another printer. I have an UM 2 and S3. Normally, a laptop with an i7 /
    1 point
  9. I see. These material settings are indeed not used at all for "Ultimaker 2" gcode flavor (and form only a "base-line" that is overridden by most of the profiles anyway...) Yep, change it on the printer (i think the menu entry is called "customize" (somewhere in the material settings). Or change the GCode-flavor in Cura to "Marlin". The latter gives you access to the material settings in the print profile and the start-/end-scripts as well. And the settings on the printer are not used anymore. Make your choice! 🙂
    1 point
  10. Search Settings: Fuzzy Edit: You're right.
    1 point
  11. Don't let Geert scare you off. It's not as simple as he makes out. #1. It's a machine. To work correctly the frame parts need to be either parallel or at 90° to each other. If the X beam (that the print head moves left and right on) isn't at 90° to the uprights, parts will be angled and leveling will be almost impossible. The Y build table is on a beam and that beam has to be parallel to the side beams that the rubber feet are on. If the Y table is running up and down hill you can level it (because it moves past the nozzle at the same distance), but again, the parts will be tilt
    1 point
  12. I don't know your printer, but it looks like it still needs calibrating steps, and maybe correcting slack and tolerances. You may need to find manuals and tutorials on that for your printer, or ask the manufacturer. After that, for finding the best settings for general printing: just stay with the printer and watch it closely, while printing small test models. Do lots of test models, one by one. Change speed on the fly, and see how that affects the print quality. Change temperature on the fly, and see what happens. Change cooling on the fly, change flow-rate, etc... Print the same
    1 point
  13. I did a little experimentation and figured out why it suddenly started working for me. The answer is: it didn't. The selection and use of the hoops works just fine when I first open the app up. However, once I click on the Monitor tab and then back to the Prepare tab, that's when it stops working. As I workaround (at least for me) you only need to close and re-open the app making sure not to click on Monitor tab until you no longer need to interact with the translation tools.
    1 point
  14. I have MacOS 11.0 - Cura 4.8 - and fixed it with - Adding Cura to "Security & Privacy" - "Privacy" - "Full Disk Access"
    1 point
  15. Without actually going through all of the steps you have outlined, I can tell you for sure that the setting for STL, 3MF and AMF export out of SWX 2018 all carry over. The differences are only with regard to "Include Appearances" and "Include Colors" in the 3MF and AMF check boxes. STL does not have those options. As you can see the dialog box Title Bar is "System Options - STL/3MF/AMF". No matter which file format one chooses the settings are always the same. Does that help?
    1 point
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