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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/15/2021 in all areas

  1. Yes, this is a good point. For designing parts, a lot of the rules for injection moulding apply here too, although not all. You can find online manuals on how to design plastic parts for injection moulding, from big companies like BASF, Bayer, DuPont, etc... How to design plastic threads is also explained in some of them. But this is more suitable for bigger sizes anyway, like plastic bottle lids. The company protolabs also has good manuals on designing for 3D-printing, I think. With a standard nozzle of 0.4mm, you can not print lines and corners narrower th
    2 points
  2. We want to learn about your Cura workflows! The Cura team is continuously working to improve the products and make your 3d printing workflow as smooth as possible. As part of this continual quest to improve the product, we would like to interview some users on their experience with the software and the rest of the Ultimaker platform. We are particularly looking for people who have expertise or something to say on these 3 topics: 1) Network connected printers 2) Advanced workflows going from CAD to Cura (Custom support, mesh modifiers, multi material assemblies )
    1 point
  3. When I am not printing, I store all my materials in a closed plastic box with a big bag of dessicant. Use one with blue/pink indicator, so you can see when it needs drying (=by putting it in an oven at low temp). Nylon is known to get too moist in only a couple of hours. It should be dried prior to printing, and then be printed from a dry-box. Idem for PVA. (I don't have a material station, so I don't know if that incorporates a dry-box functionality?) For PLA and PET: in real life I haven't seen too much degradation when sitting in the open, although theoretically they
    1 point
  4. Just make sure you read the dialogs of the installer of the newer version! You don't have to let the installer uninstall the previous version.
    1 point
  5. The most obvious advice is: don't print M3 bolts. You can buy them for very cheap (cheaper than you can print them for if you factor in the cost of the printer, maintenance and your time), and the ones you buy will be much stronger. No, you cannot remove the shadow.
    1 point
  6. Hey, thanks for your help, I noticed that the Build Plate Adhesion Type was resetted to skirt and in cause of this it was too large... Thanks!
    1 point
  7. If you have a (network) drive mapped to the letter X:, try mapping it to a different driveletter.
    1 point
  8. I think I may have solved it! Is it possible that there was a section of very fine lines before the retraction that causes your issue? I believe that during these very fine lines, filament oozes away DURING printing, causing ever so slight overextrusion in the structures prior to the retraction! So after the next travel move, the nozzle is empty and has to first fill up before the print can continue as normal. Usually, these defects occur in infill and are not visible in the finished print. This is unless there is no infill, either because the print is very thin and consists of only walls, or
    1 point
  9. It's a long video, I know, sorry. But I packed in everything you need to know to be an expert at getting parts to stick to the glass better. In the video I pick up an entire printer by the little UM robot. If you follow any 2 of the suggestions you will have an improvment but if you follow all of them you will never have a part come loose again.
    1 point
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