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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/14/2021 in all areas

  1. OK, so this is the print of Pyramid 5. There is very little difference between the two methods of spiralize. One with smoothing on (left side) and one with smoothing off (right Side). Not really much difference. Could have tweaked the settings to get the top to print better, but it was not the issue. Also lousy trimming of the brim. However, after re-reading the OP, I noticed it did mention using Pyramid 4 and I found the issue immediately: Here you can see that a straight slice produces the holes, or gaps. I used Cura 4.8, but have no expectation that there would be any difference. But you can see the gaps that are inherent in the Pyramid 4 model. You can see it in the slice as well as the shading of the original model. It was made that way. I then applied just a 0.05mm horizontal expansion and the gap went away without destroying the aesthetic of the model. Cura's version of 'Zap-a-Gap' I guess 😆 The thing to keep in mind is that the Thingiverse poster showed a pic of the Pyramid 6 which is a much more dense and connected model. It is impossible to compare two separate models without understanding the difference. Had I not missed the model number being printed this would have been solved much earlier. 🙂 But there ya have it.
    2 points
  2. This is not a model error. This is the setting "Enable coasting". You can find this setting way down in the Experimental tab in cura. It is probably enabled in your given printer profile. This is just disabled in a generic new one. You can use your given profile and just disable this setting. What this does is it stops extruding material just a bit before it reaches the end of the line. This last bit is displayed as a travel move in the layer preview. The purpose is to use the molten filament in the nozzle for the last bit of a line instead of extruding until the end. The idea is to reduce the pressure in the nozzle before the printhead is going to do a travel move. This can reduce stringing and blobs and hide the Z seam better when dialed in correctly.
    2 points
  3. Personally I'm not happy with the current situation either. The formal way for complaints nowadays is to contact your reseller and they will forward it to the Ultimaker Customer Care department. Then, as a work around, I can show you one of the hidden tricks the UM3 has in its internals. When you are willing to edit a text file on the printer, then you can enable another leveling mechanism that's also used in the S-line of printers. The UM3 uses a 3-point leveling where the S-line uses a multi-point bed leveling (MPBL). The MPBL is more accurate as it probes more locations and can hence handle curved or twisted build plates, not an issue for the smaller UM3, but there are fewer bugs in this algorithm. There is always a catch: You can't select the leveling frequency anymore, the MPBL probing will always run before a print, but we did some optimizations here so it's not that bad time wise. Upgrade your printer to the most recent version (5.2.16 at the time of writing) Set the printer in developer mode (in menu Maintenance/Diagnostics) Now we are going to edit a file on the printer. You can do this directly of use scp to copy the file to your pc, modify it and then copy it back to the printer. Here the online guide: Use a terminal program to create an SSH connection to the printer. Username = root / password = ultimaker cd /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines vi um3.json (check online guides for how to navigate in the 'vi' editor) On line 45 of the file change "frequency" to "mode" On line 54 change "spacing" from 80 to 160 (reduces the number of probe locations from 9 to 4 which is way faster) Save the file (ESC ':wq') Type 'reboot' to reboot the printer
    1 point
  4. Maybe show a video of the problem. I've done this a few times and it always works perfectly. You need to "shove" the head switch into the lift mechanism before continuing the procedure. If it still doesn't work after a few tries, try to do "reset all printer settings" and then try again (you will lose your XY calibration data).
    1 point
  5. My print came out fine. If you take a look at the one that was printed (Pyramid 6) on Thingiverse, you can see it has much larger areas to work with. I printed Pyramid 5 and it looked fine other than the layer height. If one wanted to, one could play with line width and layer height for a more refined print.
    1 point
  6. @Ste_297 Sorry to hear you have troubles. I will try to forward your problem to UM to get a quick solution.
    1 point
  7. Hi, after some years using Zortrax printers I decided to buy an UMS5. After some weeks of test I'm quite disappointed by the results. At the moment my old Zortrax M200 is better than the UMS5 in any possible aspect, overall quality, details, dimensional accuracy, material presets. After lot's of test I think that the main problem my S5 suffer is lot's of ringing. The only way I can manage to have acceptable print is to stay under 40 mm/s. I noticed that the print head suffer from mechanical backslash. I attach you a slow motion video where you can clearly see that the printhead vibrate badly every time it change direction. Is this the expected mechanical quality for a printer that declare to have a 6.9 micron XY resolution and cost 5.5k or do you think my machine has some problems? When the direction is inverted I also hear a "clicky" sound. I'm using Cura 3.5.1 and the latest firmware, only Ultimaker original materials with respective Cura profiles. Slow Motion Video:
    1 point
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