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  1. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    5 points
  2. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    4 points
  3. After a successful BETA period we are ready to launch Ultimaker Cura 4.8. With support for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect that we launched today. Download it right now to experience several new features that allow you to work faster than ever. Check this video for a quick run down of Ultimaker Cura 4.8: New features Arrange models feature improvement. An improved arrange models feature allows you to quickly organize all your CAD models on your build plate. Previously the automated orientation of multiple parts did not always utilize the full buil
    4 points
  4. Introduction Marco Polo, Christopher Columbus, Vasco da Gama, Amerigo Vespucci, James Cook. What do they all have in common, and what could they possibly be doing in a post related to 3D Printing and Generative Design? The obvious answer to what they have in common is that they were all explorers, many of them from an era known as The Age of Discovery. The reason they relate to this post is that Generative Design has been created for “design explorers” and it provides a method for navigating a route through to the discovery of the kind of design outcomes the like of whi
    4 points
  5. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    4 points
  6. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    3 points
  7. All related files can be downloaded from Thingiverse now with following URL. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4655216/files
    3 points
  8. Mmmmm, weird. This is either a partial clog that incidentally happened at the same time you've switch to 4.8, or an error when importing the profile. Check the filament size, because it looks like you have 2.85 instead of 1.75 in the machine settings. If you still have 4.7 installed try to print something small sliced with 4.7, the typical x,y,z cube for instance. If it prints ok, it's the filament size in 4.8. If it prints all wrong, clog Or who knows
    3 points
  9. As the owner of two UM2+, I find it admirable that Ultimaker is improving their older models instead of just leaving them in the dust, lol. Any chance of making a retrofit kit to make older UM2's compatible with the UM Digital Workflow?
    3 points
  10. I finally converted my printer to DXU, but I am not using the original DXU print head, instead, I make use of the original head with modification, so that I can keep using the metal parts. I found this modification design from Chat room, however, the author only released the STL files and some them seems not work well. Therefore, I based on the original head dimension and reference to the STL file, I redraw all of them with Solidwork, modified some key area, attached the photos of my build as well as the parts photo exported from Solidwork. This head now used for over 100 hours
    3 points
  11. That is what I said, in a few more words. Let's not forget, Ultimaker is a company and we need to be lucrative otherwise we cease to exist. We try to do this while staying as close with our customers as possible, but that doesn't mean we can do everything. I think this forum and the community as a whole proves among other things, that we like to stay close to our customers and that we listen to them. Even our developers are directly engaged with our customers. So as I said and you concluded, somewhat alternative products exist and it would take a lot of resources to develop and maintain a
    2 points
  12. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
    2 points
  13. No extra Raspberry Pi! No extra PSU! No extra firmware and keep it up to date! No extra "company" to ask questions if having problems! No extra I don't know what, but I'm sure there is more...
    2 points
  14. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  15. I'm confused as to why the 2+ is replaced by the 2+ Connect without an upgrade option for current owners. If this is true, then I'm out. I'll keep using my Ultimaker 2+ until it dies, but I'm not buying anymore Ultimaker products. I bought Ultimaker as upgradability was in the sprit of their products. Make it upgradable and let me keep this printer current or I can jump to a manufacturer who does.
    2 points
  16. Das sind die Default werde aus der Firmware (eine etwas ältere da ich die zu Hand hatte) Für UM2 also 25Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.0 #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.5 #define DEFAULT_Kd 100.0 Für UM2+ also 35Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.03 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.50 #define DEFAULT_Kd 70.0 Da ich schon seit einiger zeit auf Duet Board umgerüstet habe, und da scheinbar das "Auto Tune" ordentliche Werte geliefert hatte (ich weis es gar nicht mehr genau, aber wo her soll ich diese Werte her haben) Habe ich folgende Werte eingestellt:
    2 points
  17. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
    2 points
  18. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    2 points
  19. I know what you mean and the reason is, that the line width is very small, therefore it is not printed by default. But there are several options, not sure which one is responsible for that, but try: Filter Out Tiny Gaps -> unchecked Compensate Wall Overlaps And this could also help, when you print the outer wall before inner wall: Outer before Inner Walls Can you upload your STL or project file here, then we can also check it.
    2 points
  20. First I should warn you that there are something like 100 machine settings that aren't shown in these dialogs unfortunately. You can include CAD files of your printer to make it prettier in the GUI for example. But it should be enough to get good prints for most printers. Also document what you did well because sometimes when you upgrade Cura (rarely) you get messed up profiles and the solution is to blow away all user files (like printer settings). Next, "creatware" is a fork of an older version of Cura. Cura version 15.X I think (15 refers to 2015). Cura 2.X came out that ye
    2 points
  21. Sorry to hear so. It made sense to enable an option to upgrade an UM2 to an UM2+, or an UMO to an UMO+ because 'only' a few essential components were renewed. But the idea of upgrading an UM2+ to an UM2C was really pushing the boundaries of a reasonable product. And honestly, we felt it wasn't. It would create too many complexities, and it could never be a 'plug & play-upgrade'. If you rather have a DIY printer, there are plenty of options out there. The philosophy of upgrading our products is still very much alive though. Take a look at the firmware, which is updated frequent
    2 points
  22. Ahlala ! CURA n'arrive pas à "trancher" le magnifique objet que vous avez mis tant de temps à modéliser avec Sketchup : WTF ? CURA c'est de la m%@&e ! Le problème vient plus surement de Sketchup que de CURA, explications : Retour aux sources. Avant de parler de Sketchup et de CURA on va parler STL. Les fichiers STL décrivent des objets par leurs surfaces externes. Cette surface doit nécessairement être fermée et définie par une série de triangles. cf. : https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier_de_stéréolithographie Prenons pour exemple un des objets les plus simples que vous aurez
    2 points
  23. The yellow buttons are just the three extruders. That should be fine. The tools on the left side are all plugins. First step is: click on "Marketplace" (upper right corner) and check if the "Scale Tool"-plugin is installed and activated (!).
    2 points
  24. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  25. This is the wrong replacement pattern. Use this and Cura will not have to prepend its own preheat sequence for your extruder: M109 S{material_print_temperature} Similarly, include this to stop Cura from having to preheat the bed for you: M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
    2 points
  26. And there is also a different Z stage. All things considered, where it made sense to enable an upgrade from UM2 to an UM2+, upgrading to an UM2+C doesn't make sense. It would have been really cool though, but unfortunately not possible. As mentioned, even the frame would need to be modified.
    2 points
  27. Maybe service is just expensive and that is why chinese printers are so cheap. Just something to consider 😉 Anyhow, I also need my house to be painted. Why haven't you done so already!? I don't want to pay an actual painter to do it, because it's really expensive! All joking aside; You can just post issues on github. We will have a look at it. We can't guarantee that we will be able to fix it, because we always get more issues than we can handle. In some cases we simply can't reproduce the issue, which also makes it really hard for us to fix it (since we then don't even know where to sta
    2 points
  28. Thank you for sharing your message and wild assumptions. If you want to get in touch with us you can do so via our community, Github or our ticket support system. If you decide to go for any of these routes, I would like to ask you to pay attention to your tone of voice when you're asking for help from people who have no obligation to help you. We are willing to help though, all users of Cura, regardless if you have an Ultimaker or not. Asking nicely helps. We're all just people.
    2 points
  29. You'll be happy to hear then that an upcoming firmware release will allow you to enable a firewall, blocking all incoming traffic from the local network. This is full, 100%, network security, whereas passwords are definitely not. By enabling this firewall, users are forced to print either via USB (physical security can prevent access to this if needed), or by using the Digital Factory, which has full user management and access management in place (especially if you're a company on an Ultimaker Essentials subscription). So we take security very seriously and are doing continuous imp
    2 points
  30. It's a known issue that Cura is super slow to start if the X drive is used (if i recall correctly). Since that doesn't happen often it never got priority to get fixed.
    2 points
  31. I was able to find a spare half our to make some improvements. We'll be rolling out the following change somewhere this week on https://account.ultimaker.com/app/security: It doesn't automate the process, but at least makes it way easier to find out how to initiate it. Chris
    1 point
  32. Do you use multiple displays? If so, try disabling all but one of them temporarily. If Cura starts succesfully with a single monitor, go to the General preferences and uncheck the "Restore window position on start". Then you can re-enable the other screens, and Cura should always open on your primary screen.
    1 point
  33. Well done gr5. You sorted. The X Y Z were all set at 100mm instead of 200MM. For information:- When i got this printer in September I had a lot of models that wouldn't stick down properly. Got in touch with Labists who said that the temp on the base should be 60' and the extruder should be 240' when i pointed out to them that their manual recommended 50' and 200' they admitted it was printed wrong, but were not going to change till next year. I also got a roll of decorators blue tape. I've not had anything come loose since. Once again thanks for your help.
    1 point
  34. Also die 50 Watt scheinen mir auch sehr Überdimensioniert. Die größte Herausforderung für die Patronen ist wahrscheinlich der plötzliche Lüfter Einsatz bzw. stellen (große plane Flächen) im Modell, wo dann die Luft abprallt und direkt auf den Heaterblock/Nozzle bläst und abkühlt. Wenn ich mich an den 25W Patronen zurück erinnere, kam der Heater Error eigentlich nur in Verbindung mit den Lüfter. Das kannst du bei deinen aktuellen Teile evtl. auch mal testen, vielleicht gibt es dir eine bessere gleichmäßigere Layer Qualität, einfach mal den Lüfter nur auf max.
    1 point
  35. You can't just select faces for fuzzy skin but you can divide the model into separate parts. Use per object settings and apply the fuzzy skin to the parts you want then merge the models to be able to achieve what you want. All this depends on if you have access to the model files.
    1 point
  36. Such an average life time does not exist because it depends on so many factors, like which material you use and if you ever clean it or not. But generally speaking, choosing between the two, it would rather lean towards 1000 than 300.
    1 point
  37. You can make it a lot easier to remove/replace the bowden tube by printing a couple of these clips. They are much easier to handle than the standard pneumatic clips. Pull it out, push the white ring down, and pull out the tube. Replace in opposite way: push tube down while lifting the ring, then insert the clip. See here for the files (and then scroll down): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
    1 point
  38. Almost surely because you need to add the 4.7k pullup resistor. I think using the thermistor is a great solution. The pt100 isn't more accurate but it can handle higher temps. Thermistors get damaged at high temps (they are all different but yours should be fine up to 230C probably even 250C) and once they get overheated they start reading the wrong temp. As long as you stick to PLA you'll be fine.
    1 point
  39. @Torgeir So, the UM2C has the same dimensions on the top as the UM3. The UM2 is 1cm less deep, the width is the same as UM3/UM2C
    1 point
  40. Send M203 Z10 (10 is an example number) followed by M500. M203 is max speed for the various axis and M500 will save it to memory in the printer. I used to like to fly fish for carp. My biggest was 28#. They are fresh water bonefish only bigger.
    1 point
  41. They're like motorcycle saddles...If you are happy with the one you have why change? You might get glass and hate it. I like mine (from Creality). I use hairspray as an adhesive. Sometimes things stick overly well but the handy dandy putty knife and a tap with a little shoe repair hammer convinces the parts to release. The hard part to deal with is the clips because there are times when the print head will need to go where the clips are. I finally glued some small aluminum angles to the underside of the metal bed and they act as edge locators for the glass. No clips at all.
    1 point
  42. Ich habe ein Bahnbetriebswerk im Massstab 1:87 konstruiert und mit meinem Ultimaker 2+ gedruckt. Nachstehend nur ein paar Bilder. Mehr, siehe hier:https://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=180&t=171433
    1 point
  43. Dit is duidelijk een instellingsfout bij Inventor. Ik vond de juiste manier hier : https://pcbisolation.com/blog/inventor-to-cura-stl-export/ Blijkbaar teken je in millimeters (dat is normaal) maar heb je bij de export opties centimeters aangeklikt. Dus dat is een schaal van 1:10.
    1 point
  44. FYI it's harder to get a copy of cura 15.X these days so I'm hosting it here (sorry, I only have the windows version): Cura 15.04.06 for windows It doesn't have nearly as many features as the latest cura and doesn't support UM3 or newer printers and it supports dual color printers but not second-extruder-support. But it works very well for 90% of printers out there and in some cases produces better prints (not sure why). I usually use the latest Cura but occasionally still use this old version when printing on my um2go printers.
    1 point
  45. Hallo Soweit ich weis hat der UM3 und UM2 die gleichen Treiber Chips auf den Control Board Motoren tauschen bringt da meiner Meinung nichts, sondern die Treiber Chips auf den Board (die Ansteuerung). Ich habe meinen UM2 auf den Duet Board umgerüstet, dieses besitzt neuere aktuellere Treiber Chips und man hat da schon ein Geräusch unterschied gehört, mit den gleichen Motoren. Aber wegen den Vorteil von der Lautstärke habe ich bestimmt nicht umgerüstet. Und bei den UM3 fällt das auch flach weil da ja noch ein Linux Board (glaube ich) mit werkelt.
    1 point
  46. Thanks! This is really nice. Got it working great on Mac OS 10.15, once I set up a profile for Cura in the SpaceMouse preferences (which seems to control the overall sensitivity). Had to tweak some of the scalings directions in the plugin to get it to work in ways that felt intuitive to me - which I guess comes down to whether you feel like you're moving the viewer or the object. But it's a very nice improvement!
    1 point
  47. In upper right of cura, select "Marketplace". Make sure "plugins" is selected and look under "E" for "Export". Install this plugin: "Export HTML Cura Settings". Restart cura. Now there is a new feature in the "file" menu?
    1 point
  48. Well, if you want to experiment with these values, then you can modify the plugin since it comes with the source code. You just need to edit the SolidWorksReader.py and change the values. I personally have the fear that if I set these values too fine, then it might blow up your hard drive (because STL and 3MF files are saved into your temporary directory) and loading this file will take unnecessarily more time. After you changed these values you can see in the log how big the temporary file was after conversion. So if you have some time left, then modify the values and observe how th
    1 point
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