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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/21/2021 in all areas

  1. At first, I thought: are you really going to slide downhill in a 3D-printed sled? What if it breaks? But then I saw the dimensions: 12cm. :-) The first photo, it laying upside down, looks really convincing.
    2 points
  2. Very cool, the Natural Wood looks amazing.
    2 points
  3. I have to work in compatibility mode as this old laptop doesn't support OpenGL 4.1. When I open the 3mf file, Support is not enabled. Enabling support, and leaving the part with the legs down, I don't get that center post. There is nothing above in that orientation and it isn't required. I looked at emare's image and rotated the part 180 (a lot less wasted material that way). With the legs in the air, that inside support is required for the roof of the counterbore. Here it is as the 3mf file shows. You can see to the bottom of the front hole and no support was generated. Given
    1 point
  4. I get the same issue on Cura 4.8. Furtermore there is support on the side of the leg that is not really needed. Hope this helps the developers to fix it.
    1 point
  5. Hi @SandervG, thanks for the comment. My nephew absolutely loved the gift! About layer visibility, I think that it depends on the printer. If the printer is of very high quality, such as the Ultimaker S5, and you also use high quality filament, the layers look almost like they are part of the design, they make the print stand out, and add an element of uniqueness to the object. I don't think an injection-moulded phone holder can look quite like this one!
    1 point
  6. Thanks, yes it was indeed. On my couch, beer, TV, cats 😻
    1 point
  7. If you increase the Line Width, what happens is that the printer extrudes more material than with the smaller line width. The additional material gets flattened out by the "shoulders" of the bottom of the nozzle tip (ie: the flat part of the bottom of the nozzle tip to the side of the nozzle hole). If you increase the Line Width too much, there some material may "curl up" beyond the shoulder and stick to the nozzle for a bit. Material that is kept at extrusion temperature for too long may carbonize ("burn"). If it does, and then gets pulled off the nozzle, you get the burnt mark.
    1 point
  8. @emare I hope your evening is better than your day was.
    1 point
  9. 60°C is enough for PLA, don't go higher. I would say you have to level your bed closer to the nozzle. Do the leveling process again, but adjust the screws a little bit more to feel more friction on the leveling card.
    1 point
  10. Nice! Do you have an undercarriage with electronics and motor already? Anyway, here's a print from my side. It's actually one print. Wooden parts: 0.8mm PLA with Natural Wood "Metal" parts: .25 nozzle, Tough PLA. All the parts were printed on one S5 plate with dual extrusion. So you basically print a DIY model kit. It's 12cm long like this. 🙂
    1 point
  11. Hi Maurosacchi. Personally, I would be looking at PP with glass/carbon fiber. Extremely strong and PP works well with liquids. Make sure when you print that the z seam alignment is at random. And I would also print it with 100% infill. Final version anyway. If you do want to go for PP, make sure you use the adhesionsheet and/or pp-adhesion from Magigoo. Those are the only adhesion solutions which worked for me when I used PP with GF (30%): XSTRAND™ GF30-PP (Polypropylene + Glass Fiber) (crea3d.com) Sounds like a very interesting project, SandervG forwarded this thread t
    1 point
  12. Hi, my day was really awful, hectic, too many things to do. I'm looking forward to drinking a good beer at home tonight.
    1 point
  13. These are just some random thoughts... The typical printing materials are fond of water. I'm guessing that would be a downside so if you can get something with a low affinity for water, that would be a prime consideration. It may be why Delrin was picked over something like Nylon. A prototype for initial pressure testing could be made from something cheaper(?) Among other things, "Layer Adhesion" will play a part in water-tightness. Maybe a coating over the print? I would make the bottom of the vessel a dome. The print will be weaker than any traditiona
    1 point
  14. Starting about noon on Christmas day, there will be a huge influx of people (mostly young people) who will be getting into 3D printing with absolutely no idea of what is involved. The same questions will be asked numerous times and will require the same answers over and over. A sticky thread of how to get started might be a good idea. This would be more for the non-Ultimaker crowd that is looking to Cura as their slicer. They will be knocking on the door here. The Cura Reddit crew is going to have their hands full. So my suggestion for right now is to start on 3d Printing 101
    1 point
  15. Fundamentals of modeling....seems to be a continuing issue. Not modeling pertaining to programs, but the fundamental issues that arise no matter what program. Non-water tight, too thin holes, useless voids, tolerances for tab-and-slot type of engineering, ball and socket...things like that?
    1 point
  16. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
    1 point
  17. I recently got an Ender 5+ and encountered this problem as well when i started using Cura. Below is the solution I came up with. It's not perfect but it does the job: Original GCode snippet to replace: G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 ;Move to side a little Replacement GCode snippet: ; note: - replace the Y value to something that matches your printer dimensions ; - i used Y300 because my printer has a max Y of 350
    1 point
  18. Plus tu pédales moins vite, moins t'avance plus doucement (et vice-versa).
    1 point
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