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  1. 2 points
    An other origin to your issue can be in the section Experimental -> Make Overhang Printable
  2. 2 points
    Hello everybody, Hope you are all well. I am happy to inform you that the new firmware has been approved after testing. This means we will move forward with the release next week. This message is not an official release notice, but I've told you I would let you know as soon as more information is available, so here we are. We still have to prepare some things for the actual release, hence it will be next week. When it is officially released the release notes will be published in the firmware thread. You can follow the category and receive a notification when a new post is added. I hope knowing help is on the way will make up for something. Have a great weekend,
  3. 2 points
    I have managed to workaround the various limitations and bugs in the graphic library and now have quite a nice display. It still has some compromises compared to the other builds (Linux/Mac/Windows) and it's definitely a bit sluggish if the model is large but for small models I think it's preferable to the compatibility mode display. YMMV.
  4. 2 points
    A bit late maybe, but you'll now find our new 'app switcher' in all of our online products. This will make it easier to switch between the different applications, as well as knowing what is in the ecosystem when you just joined.
  5. 2 points
    Couple photos for now.
  6. 1 point
    Okey. At this moment the first print with the new firmware hast been started :D
  7. 1 point
    @Cura_User_666 you might be interested in a plugin I developed to connect to Monoprice Select Mini V2 printers via Wi-Fi, it's now available on the Marketplace.
  8. 1 point
    Hi @ahoeben, you're a QML wizard. Can you suggest a means whereby the anchor position for that tool panel can be changed based on the position of the tool button selected? I'm thinking it would be nice if the top 3 tools (Move, Scale & Rotate) anchored the panel at the top (like it currently does) and then the following tools (per-model settings and anything else that comes later) could anchor at the bottom of their panel like I have done in my modded Toolbar.qml. I tried using conditional expressions but couldn't make it work. Any ideas?
  9. 1 point
    Here's what you do... 1 - extract the contents of your AppImage file by specifying the --appimage-extract option. This extracts into squashfs-root. 2 - download and unzip the attached Toolbar.zip. 3 - copy the replacement Toolbar.qml to squashfs-root/usr/bin/resources/qml/Toolbar.qml 4 - run the patched Cura by executing squashfs-root/AppRun Hope this helps. Toolbar.zip
  10. 1 point
    Hello, I've been using a Prusa i3 mk3s for about 6 months making custom IC shipping containers and decided to upgrade to an S5 a little under a month ago. I've had issues with interlocking prints being oversized, which is pretty well documented around this forum. Most people recommend simply using a negative horizontal expansion value to bring the print size closer to the .STL size. While I have some success using a -0.1mm horizontal expansion value for outer dimensions, my model has some fine 0.4 mm wide lines on the surface which get completely removed by using this horizontal expansion value. I have to say, this is very disappointing. I will echo the many other reports I have seen of people running into XY dimensional accuracy issues with this printer and say that I am very surprised a Prusa mk3s produces much more accurate prints with less work. At this point I would not recommend anyone purchase the S5 if dimensional accuracy is important to them. It seems like a software or firmware fix would be appropriate to solve this issue; does UM plan to address this issue, or are there any plugins that will adjust outer and inner walls only and leave single wall features alone? Thank you, Gabriel
  11. 1 point
    It might be time (maybe past time) for some maintenance. Take apart the nozzle and hot end, check the extruder drive, the belts, clean the dust and fibers out of the fans and off the wheels and tracks. If they have them, check the bowden tube fittings and see if the tube is sloppy and can be pushed in and out. These machines work pretty hard and it sounds like you've had them running for a while.
  12. 1 point
    Hi Folks, Here is some more details about my feeder gear box and arrangement. The pictures is from Fusion 360. Here you can see the attachment for the electrical cable and a carbon rod (1mm) support. This support avoid cable to be bent uneven and create cable rupture during long time printing. It also support prevent conflict between the bowden tube and the electrical cable. This arrangement is also made on the other side. The upper part of this box hold the 32 tooth pulley and the original feeder unit with release handle. In this The lo part in here, is where the feeder stepper motor is installed with a 16 tooth pulley. This upper cover also hold the second bearing (5x10x4)mm, for the 5mm drive shaft that's attached to the knurled (original) feeder wheel driving the filament. Here's the last picture for today, self explaining. - Next will be the release handle and test template, etc. Thanks Torgeir
  13. 1 point
    what are your settings in the 'build plate adhesion'? skirt, brim? do you have double extrusion?
  14. 1 point
    I suspect that avahi-daemon is logging too much. The installed version is 0.6.31, and the very next version — 0.6.32 — fixes these warnings from appearing in logs: https://github.com/lathiat/avahi/blob/master/docs/NEWS#L155 The installed version is over four years old :( I can't install it via apt-get, so I disabled avahi-daemon by modifying /etc/default/avahi-daemon and stopping it with update-rc.d avahi-daemon stop
  15. 1 point
    For others who want to debug here are some commands you might find useful: df -h # shows disk usage in human-readable terms journalctl --disk-usage # shows how much disk space logs are taking ls -l /var/log/journal/**/ # list all journald logs rm /var/log/journal/**/*@* # delete all archived logs (logs containing an @ symbol) Removing those logs saved me a bunch of space. I also edited /etc/systemd/journald.conf and halved SystemMaxUse to 32M, but that didn't seem to really work.
  16. 1 point
    Première étape régler l'extrudeuse ca revient à régler les pas de l'extrudeuse ( Tube bowden débrancher, demander à extruder 100 mm de fil et regarder que l'on a bien les 100mm qui sortent) si ce n'est pas le cas régler en faisant une règle de 3 les pas du moteur qui pilote l'extrusion (E step) . Ensuite régler le débit dans Cura pour ne pas etre en sur-extrusion méthode habituel faire un cube vide sans dessus et ni dessus et mesurer avec 2 ou 3 largeur de contour si l'on a la bonne valeur et corriger avec le paramètre débit dans Cura.
  17. 1 point
    @cuq - nice find! I guess we should have asked him for his 3mf project file!
  18. 1 point
    Good news! One of UM's techs has offered me access to the information, software, and hardware I need to repair our S5 Pro and get it back in production. I find it amusing that I'm using our trusty Lulzbot to print the UM-required safety plugs to repair the S5 Pro. Gr5, you are entirely correct: The instructions are explicit. You can kill yourself--literally--for cheap with an S5. I'm not flinchy when it comes to dealing with electronics, but it is helpful to know that I need to be v..e..r..y c..a..r..e..f..u..l. Also, before opening the bottom plate, I want to be sure I have UM's permission to do so without voiding the warranty. Since I don't have the luxury of time to ship the machine out for service, I am grateful for the opportunity to service the machine myself. The only thing I would wish differently in this scenario is that the machine's software would be stable from the start. To anyone else who may have this very frustrating and seemingly pointless problem, be advised that recovery cannot be done from the GUI. You have to open the hardware and perform a manual operation. To gain access to the instructions and firmware you need, I recommend you open a support ticket with UM via Fabric8. If you value your life and warranty, get your information and software from official sources.
  19. 1 point
    I solved the problem on my laptop by upgrading to the latest graphics drivers from Intel (newer than the ones from the laptop vendor who doesn't update them anymore).
  20. 1 point
    Hi nitrotech, This is just a flat nut that I collected from an old mic jack.. So i filed it down to fit inside the feeder (~11.4mm). Here's a link to the thread specs: https://www.qualitymill.com/2965619/Product/Dormer-0099285 And here to a link to a "similar" pneumatic strait tube adapter: https://no.rs-online.com/web/p/products/1216221/?tpr=2 Before I found this flat nut. I've tried to print a nut in PLA, but this did not take the pressure.. Well I'll thought that nylon will do the trick, but could not print nylon at this time. Here is a picture of a template and parts made for thread adjustment of this modification. This variant can be used as it is with the spacers, however it's made for a belt gearbox. Thanks Torgeir.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks for the file. I loaded that project, set top surface skin layers to 1 and then set the top surface skin speed to 20.... The speed is hidden unless the number of top surface skin layers is > 0.
  22. 1 point
    I am selling my Ultimaker S5. Lightly used, purchased March 2019. I am a hobbyist and while the S5 is a great printer, it is more than I need and I have decided to sell it. It has only used a couple of reels of filament overall. Screen shots of the total usage are below. List price $4,995 Included: - Ultimaker S5 - Ultimaker filament: About a quarter reel of Black PLA, half reel of Natural PVA, and about 80% of a reel of white TPU. - 4 print cores total: Two AA 0.4 and two BB 0.4 (S5 normally comes with one AA and one BB, I purchased one extra of each, so this includes two extra cores). See my note below about the extra BB core. - Original box Condition: - Printer is overall in excellent condition and works well, especially with PLA and TPU - Only issue I’ve had with the S5 is using the dual extrusion with the PVA filament. It may be a combination of me being an amateur or perhaps humidity in the room, but I haven’t had reliable performance with PVA. Otherwise the printer is excellent. Dual extrudes great with other filament types like TPU. - Before listing, I cleaned and tested 3 of the 4 print cores. My extra BB 0.4 core still seems to be gummed up - you may need to do a few more cleaning cycles. For the purposes of this listing, consider the extra BB core to be an “extra” that should work after more cleaning cycles, but I am not guaranteeing it. It’s basically an extra that I’ve thrown in for free. - I recommend when you receive the printer to do a full calibration cycle etc. For your protection and for mine, I am planning to transact via PayPal for Goods and Services or similar. I am based in the Washington DC area, and pickup is preferable but if we need to ship in the US, we can work it out.
  23. 1 point
    DXU profiles are now included in Cura 4.6 by default. The profiles in 4.6 is pretty much the same as the one on Github for 4.5. One for single nozzle print and one for dual nozzle print. The postprocessing script is no longer needed.
  24. 1 point
    While I don't have all the bugs worked out yet, I will post shortly what I have and am working with. Couple of the features/capabilities I am working on Am able to use 3.00, 2.85 and 1.75 filaments with the stock All Metal Hex Hot End Have a few different slice profiles for a few materials Have profiles for some different nozzle diameters as well
  25. 1 point
    Highly interested in this thread for a few reasons: 1. Like you, Twlum, we use both Lulzbot (mini2, Taz6) and Ulitmaker (S5 Pro), and streamlining to a single slicer would be nice to clean up process flow. 2. Since Lulzbot is on the rocks, I don't forsee continued development of Cura LE. 3. I'd like to be able to use the plugins available for Cura while slicing for the Lulzbots. Please keep us posted on cross-compatibility development.
  26. 1 point
    This looks like a long standing bug (not mine, honest!) that has been woken from its slumber by a recent change I made to the wall print ordering. I have a fix which I am testing and, if that goes well, will submit to be included in a future release. A workaround is to disable the wall order optimization.
  27. 1 point
    What about the Cura profile and printing instructions from 3DLabPrint? I assume they know best how to print their models. https://3dlabprint.com/faq/cura-not-slicing-with-internal-structures/
  28. 1 point
    Hello everybody, Hope you are all well. I am happy to inform you that the new firmware has been approved after testing. This means we will move forward with the release next week. This message is not an official release notice, but I've told you I would let you know as soon as more information is available, so here we are. We still have to prepare some things for the actual release, hence it will be next week. When it is officially released the release notes will be published in the firmware thread. You can follow the category and receive a notification when a new post is added. I hope knowing help is on the way will make up for something. Have a great weekend,
  29. 1 point
    Could you please save the project file (File -> Save) and attach the .3mf file to this thread? Thanks.
  30. 1 point
    Hi, I wanted to update this thread because I've recently had the exact same problem and came by a solution that allowed me to continue printing. To cut a long story short it was the same issue - suddenly all my prints failed shortly after starting with grinding. Although later I did establish that prints with a much smaller X/Y travel worked fine. I re calibrated everything, tried different high quality filaments, replaced Bowden tubes and nozzles and used both extruders. (UM3+). I came by this thread and was intrigued by the proposed route cause - high temperatures and high humidity. I live in Scotland and while the summer has been good so far it CAN NEVER BE TOO HOT IN SCOTLAND! However the temperature was 20+ degrees Celsius. After pursuing a mechanical issue as the cause I hit a dead end then some things came together: I then thought back to the ambient temperature issues in this thread. Yesterday when I replaced the Bowden tubes it was ~25 degrees and very humid. The hottest day of the year so far. This reminded me also of a comment UM support had made about pooling melted fluid in the nozzle. When this problem first occurred I noticed immediately that the ends pulled from the nozzle were unusually thick, basically the same dimensions as the metal tube. And then I realised that this was because the filament had fully melted. I'd been surprised that I was having the same issue on both extruders so it couldn't really be the Bowden tube as ext 2 has hardly been used. So I then reduced the print temperature from 200 deg to 185 deg and the problem was solved. I've since upped the build plate from 60 to 65 degrees as there was some minor adhesion issues (first layer bubbling). But since then it's remained hot outside (relatively speaking) here and I've done 3 major prints with no issues. But I'm still not sure why my UM2+ in the same location is merrily printing away at an unchanged 220 degrees... Thanks for all the contributors to this thread. TL;DR I solved this issue by reducing the print temperature from 200 to 185 degrees C. Pictures: 1. Failed print. 2. Jammed in tube guide for extruder 2. 3. Thickened end after melting.
  31. 1 point
    What moves? the extruder? Z? I don't understand. If you can take a picture with your phone, you can join this forum using your phone - that's one option.
  32. 1 point
    Hi all, Does anyone know of a plugin for Cura that provides multi-layer or custom brim configurations? I'd like to have a much more beefy brim in lieu of a raft for two reasons 1) less material 2) better bottom layer finish. Thanks! Rich
  33. 1 point
    That's a great steer, thanks! I had what I thought was a great idea. Then discovered that someone had thought of all this years ago and I had just failed in my 'research' (Google). Thanks Again.
  34. 1 point
    Hi guys i'm trying to build ultimaker with skr 1.4 and tmc2209 drivers but i'd like to have original lcd at the front of machine is it possible to use skr with original ultimaker screen. Thanks in advance.
  35. 1 point
    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/30786-ultimaker-with-skr-14/
  36. 1 point
    Hi it is possible, I am slowly working on passing my old Ultimaker original to a SKR 1.3 with TMC 2130 for X and Y and TMC 2208 for Z and E axis. Plus a custom heated bed, but my knowledge and time aren't as big as it would need to make it in reasonable time... It isn't finished yet but as far as I know it should work... But you will have ton configure a custom firmware, which I find cool because the firmware of the UMO is very old and a lot of new features and optimizations have been done to Marlin since then. One thing I am not sure with the ultimaker 2 is if the LCD screen will work on a SKR 1.X. On My old ultimaker I am as well upgrading the LCD to a full graphic controller. I think the main reason why there are less people doing these kind of stuff is because it takes time and knowledge that not every one has (and learning it, takes more time!). And many people are happy with their Ultimaker the way it works now. EDIT: Actually I have read somewhere on this forum that this mod reduces quite a bit the noise of the printer: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/dampening-feets-for-ultimaker-2-3 It can help you and is less complicated to do.
  37. 1 point
    Fraud is a bit strong. I think the message is as clear as this thread can make it and has as such run its course. The s5 is, in reality, an impressive piece of kit, let down in frustratingly minor ways. I agree with the sentiment that we should keep feedback constructive. I genuinely hope Ultimaker take note of the feedback and focus effort on what are technically minor issues in comparison to the engineering achievement that went in to the printer itself. The price point, demands a certain level of polish and I genuinely hope that Ultimaker resolve these software issues promptly and apply the same engineering focus and attention to the software as has clearly been applied to the hardware. .. I write this having just taken a very impressive and flawless print off the print bed. I trust Ultimaker understand the frustration and the customer perspective and beyond this, the only meaningful update to this thread at this point is the confirmation from Ultimaker of a firmware update that addresses both the network connectivity issue and the camera reliability promptly Happy printing
  38. 1 point
    Check out the "combing mode" options in the travel settings.
  39. 1 point
    Hey there i wonder if by chance you have set up a patreon or are sharing this model yet, looking around it appears to be the most quality model for a bichon and id love to print one of my own. Many thanks
  40. 1 point
    Hi Folks, Welcome in here. Since I built my printer I've had some issues and want to give you some hint. The most important part for this plus upgrade is the feeder system, IMO. This cause the feeder wheel (knurled) is connected directly to the stepper motor, so during a long time print this wheel can be quite warm (as it is heated directly through the stepper shaft it is fixed to). This thing in like a "warm knife in butter", under printing with some load (high pressure in the feeder tube) this wheel start grinding the filament and will cause under extrusion as the feeder cannot deliver the amount of filament needed. If you want to go for a geared option (you can print the gearbox in PLA), make sure to turn around the original feeder unit. This mean, to have the knurled feeder wheel to grab the filament at the inside of the loop path out of the filament roll. I've used this since late 2015 and advice this many times here, but I'm not sure that people get this idea. However, I now have seen that the UMS5 is using this approach as well, -so you can make your printer quite better at this point. Further, I've also made a quick release system for the old feeder, I can feed the filament easily all the way without the need of using the stepper motor. The original stepper motor used by UM2 is a 400 step/360 degrees, but in the plus version (and kit) they use a 200 step/ degrees motor. So this is a little different, however, it is easy to change the step rate in the firmware, so no problem using the old stepper and the old feeder -as well the old firmware! In my setup, I used same belt as the short one in UM2, (200 mm GT2) belt as it was easy and inexpensive to get. Then you will need two pulleys with the right ratio differences. Here I've used a 16 tooth at the stepper shaft and a 23 tooth at the "feeder drive" shaft, this give a ratio gear of 1:2. By doing so the torque drive to the filament is doubled! You will need a 5 mm diameter shaft at 45 mm length, plus two bearing that fits into the gearbox. If you are using a 200 step/360 degrees motor, you do not need to makes any change to the firmware. The top and the bottom of the extruder is easy to print in PLA, but over time it will be better with some equivalent high temp filament. Next up will be the Ollson block, but you do not need anything else, the PT100 and the heater is good enough, no problem! But here you might be very carefully when removing the heater and the PT100 from the old block. Do not re bend the sharp 90 degrees angle, move it without disturbing the current bend, as it may break. They tend to be stuck, try to push them out via the lock screw hole using a small rod without sharp edges, a little heat might help. I will assume the plus upgrade might handle any quality issues that (was known?) and might improve the original somehow, but since I built mine with all the quality issues, shaft play etc. etc. I'll guess all that was not an issue later for me since I had no problem. But sure I do not know.. Well, that's was maybe a little too much, anyway it may perhaps give a little inspiration. Sure there it's lot's more, but later.. Here is some pictures of my setup (that's all in all contains some 11 different modifications, but still using same firmware): Feeder and top part of extruder head. Some modification to lo end of extruder head. Extension of fan to improve radiator flow through. The feeder unit with manull feed handle. Regards Torgeir
  41. 1 point
    That sounds oddly racist. But I guess that's not how you meant it 😉 (to be perfectly clear: that was meant as a joke)
  42. 1 point
    The non-manifold detection looks if any pixels are drawn with that packing paper pattern. This depends on camera-angle, so it also depends on object placement, especially for small defects. The MeshTools plugin checks the actual geometry instead (ie if all edges of all faces of the model are connected to other faces of the model), and is therefore more accurate. PS: @fieldofview is not active on the community forum, but I am.
  43. 1 point
    For those who got here by the same google search: C:\Users\*YOUR USERNAME*\AppData\Roaming\cura
  44. 1 point
    And what is the effect if you make the wall thicker? (Or thinner, to exaggerate the effect?) I also have noticed that any sudden changes in layer-area to print, or in wall thickness, do show up as horizontal lines. Try this on a small cut-out of your model, at the place where the problem appears. So you don't waste too much time and material.
  45. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  46. 1 point
    Me too! It also has an added benefit when you have a skin that finishes on top of infill as the skin edge can butt up against the infill connections like you see here...
  47. 1 point
    Hello @Madau3D, my version of Cura provides a different implementation of the thin wall printing and wall gap filling and it can make a better job of tapering thin walls and gaps. You can install it alongside the normal Ultimaker Cura. If you wish to try it (Linux and Windows only, I'm afraid), please take a look at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 This part has a tapered thin wall and tapered filled gaps...
  48. 1 point
    Basically because "that's how it was always done". I think we're still using the colors that were picked by Daid at some point when he was still the only contributor to Cura (and it wasn't even part of Ultimaker yet). Could you make a feature request for this on github? That makes it a whole lot easier to keep track of for us.
  49. 1 point
    Hello Community I think I have a quite simple question but unfortunately no answer. Is it possibel in CURA 4.0 to modify the color in the mode "Preview" => "Line type" => "Color Scheme"? Currently the Top/Bottom-Layer is represented in a kind of light yellow. The infill is represented in let me say a kind of less light yellow color. As we are all aware about the fact that millions of colors are available I do not understand why this extremly similar colors have been choosen for representation by CURA. E.g. why not follow the PRUSA Slicer approach? I really looking forward for an answer. Kind regards, Carsten Schröder Horneburg/Germany Cura Approach: PRUSA Slicer Approach:
  50. 1 point
    This is very common. The stepper motor can only push so hard - about 5kg of force. There can be many causes but seeing the incredible speed of that motor I'm guessing you are just printing too fast. The hotter the filament is, the less viscous it is. So at 190C the filament is more like toothpaste and at 240C PLA is more like honey. Did you change to a smaller nozzle size recently? Did you change filaments recently (some PLA needs higher temperature)? Is it possible you are now printing ABS and before PLA? Check all the printing speeds in cura - especially the infill speed (which should be zero): Here are my recommended top speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. What is your: print speed, nozzle size, layer height, printing temperature? Material? I want to see if you are within expected printing speed range.
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