Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/11/2021 in all areas

  1. You have a few features to enable/disable here to improve the view. First of all you should zoom in (scroll wheel) and pan (hold down shift key, right click drag). across the top of the screen look for "color scheme". First try "filament". I think that's what you have it set on in the lower photo. You can change the filament color by loading different colors in the PREPARE screen and reslicing. Then in "color scheme" try "line type". I know you don't like that but it's very useful. Yes the outer layer is red and very dark. You can scroll through all the layers -
    3 points
  2. I have created a new development snapshot which includes an OS X executable of the ArcWelder console application that I manually built on an OS X 10.12 virtual machine and which seems to work there.
    2 points
  3. Try re-formatting the SD card and blow out the card slot in the printer. Have you ever used Cura to send a print over the USB? If you have, and you know the computer and printer can communicate, then you can hook it up to the computer, start Cura, load a gcode file (or slice something) and go to the Monitor screen. Try sending G28 from Cura and see if it the printer homes. If that stuff doesn't work you can try sending M502. That will do a full reset back to factory defaults. You will lose your Home Offsets and Steps/mm calibration stuff. You should be able to get those from the pri
    2 points
  4. Hello Everybody! My brother in law has made a Crealty ender printer 6 profile for Mac and Windows. We have done some test prints and it looks promising. Please give us comments if you encounter any problems. otherwise have fun printing whit this profile!! Crealty_ender_6_printer profile cura_resources.zip
    1 point
  5. Changing the SD card and blowing out the printer worked. Thank you
    1 point
  6. Thanks, but the amazing part of the work is done by @FormerLurker; my plugin is just the glue between Cura and his ArcWelder application.
    1 point
  7. I can see the recesses in preview now, that appears to have been the issue. Thanks!
    1 point
  8. "Experimental" -> "Make Overhang Printable" Well... this setting does exactly what you ask for. It changes the geometry and... "makes all overhangs printable" 🙂
    1 point
  9. There are two. Ultimaker_Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe I believe is the last Ultimaker release for 32bit. Smartavionics has a version of 4.x that he ported to 32 bit Cura-mb-master-win32-20201121.exe I have both installed on a Win7 desktop. They run fine.
    1 point
  10. I believe I found a use for "Mesh Fixes | Remove all Holes". The back legs aren't on the build surface and require support. I randomly set it to 10% scale because it came in sized for a Jolly Green Giant. Sinking it into the build plate 2mm worked to flatten the bottom. I'd use a brim because the contact patches of the rear legs is pretty small for the lean angle they end up at before they merge into the rest.
    1 point
  11. Hey folks. I've got an Axiom dual, and used to have this problem, this thread is still the top search result so I figured I'd pitch in to help others out. I'm running decently well on this printer now. Airwolf listed a start and end code set for alternate slicers, but it's still got a couple problems. Most critical are that the temps used for auto-leveling are fixed values at 240, and Cura adds extruder temps before the Start Code. So the start code needs to be modified with material temp variables per extruder, and I prefer them to cool to the standby temp, not to 0 after auto-lev
    1 point
  12. Hi @JerichoGuitars, thank you for your post! It sounds very interesting, but unfortunately it looks like the images you tried to attach are not visible, but a broken link. Could you perhaps have a look at this, and if possible add the images again? Thanks!
    1 point
  13. I'll keep pressing for that update to happen soon! Unfortunately this is not a Digital Factory issue, but the printer actually not having a distinct state for printing vs clearing the build plate (it only goes to 'finished' after clearing the build plate). I'll talk to the embedded systems team to see if they can introduce a new state for this.
    1 point
  14. I'm sorry for the inconvenience. It really was what I wanted! I want to leave my thanks to your agility and help. Thank you very much
    1 point
  15. Hi John, Sound like there is still some left in there. You could work around the cleaning wizards and play with the temperatures yourself. If you use white or transparent filament to clean, you can observe well if there is still something filament left. Are you sure you have cleaned it all the way? Good luck!
    1 point
  16. The official way to uninstall a plugin is via the "Installed" tab of the Marketplace window. Manually removing files from the configuration folder could have adverse effects (like Cura still informing you of updated versions of the plugin that you removed)
    1 point
  17. And the results of me, a pot of cofee, and a enderv2, refurbed after 3 weeks of use, or maybe that first unorthidoxed tip change.....who knows? Lololol..
    1 point
  18. 10 retractions (at max.) for 6mm length of filament is way too low... (even for 1.75mm filament). Allow at least 10 retractions per millimeter - that's a more reasonable ratio. Have you tried the suggestion from @GregValiant? And always check the preview for travel moves without retraction. No need to actually print it, if you already see dark blue lines in the preview. Choose "Line Type" and enable "Travels". Travel lines in light blue are with retract, the darker ones are without retract (like in this example):
    1 point
  19. Das sind die neuen und die sind gut. Es gab mal weiße die waren nicht gut, dann kamen die schwarzen und nun gibt es neue weiße. Die neuen Drucker, S3, S5R2 und UM2+ Connect haben die auch drinnen.
    1 point
  20. Wird eigentlich zwischen den Drucken die Glasplatte in irgendeiner Form bewegt, ausgetauscht oder einfach entfernt und wieder eingelegt? Falls nicht, kannst du deine Teile einfach von der Platte nehmen, oder musst du freundlich nachhelfen? Und wie hoch in Millimeter ist die Abweichung überhaupt?
    1 point
  21. If you have access to Solidworks, the easiest way is to edit the original SLDPRT. You can create a revolved profile to fill the hole, for example. For editing the stl, you'd need a second stl with the shape of the conic hole you want to plug, and a program that can combine (boolean addition) both stls. MeshLab can combine stls, but can't create your 'plug'. Blender can do both, but is more complex. With Blender you can also manually edit the mesh, but I guess this is a bit advanced.
    1 point
  22. I think applying a custom shader is the best option. Adding lines might work too, but you will end up with LOTs of them for larger organic meshes. You could look at how grid.shader draws lines.
    1 point
  23. Nur mal so als Idee... Wenn "unten" alles in Ordnung ist... bewegt sich vielleicht "oben" irgendetwas (Düse, Heizblock, Druckkopf)? Sind die Führungsstangen vom Druckkopf alle noch fest in den Slider-Blöcken eingerastet und die Lager in Ordnung (Druckkopf kann sich nicht "verdrehen" oder so)? In der Testdatei von @zerspaner_gerd findet keine Filament-Bewegung (Retracts) statt. Nicht das am Ende am Druckkopf oder Olsson-Block etwas lose ist und sich beim Druckstart erstmal irgendwie "zurecht ruckelt"? Der UM2+ hat ja keine Feder mehr über dem Düsenblock
    1 point
  24. Or even beter; Post it on our issue tracker on github so all the developers will see it 🙂
    1 point
  25. Hello, Thank you for your message and I'm sorry to hear about your issue. It is important to realise that we, Ultimaker support and community moderators, are happy to support you in getting your printer back to work. But the instructions and especially the recovery image could become updated over time and to ensure everyone uses the correct files, and not make the problem worse, we prefer if they are not shared publicly. Do you have an issue? Ask us and we'll make sure you get the correct information. I'll send you a DM with the recovery image you need
    1 point
  26. Salut, Ton pb semble à coup sûr être un soucis avec le composant qui génère le 5V sur la carte mère. Vérifie tout de même que le cordon d'alimentation à l'arrière de la machine est bien enfiché et verrouillé. Si tu as un multimètre pour mesurer la tension 5 volts je peux t'indiquer la marche à suivre.
    1 point
  27. Die Modelle sehen aus, als wären sie eher für SLA-Drucker gedacht. Ein S5 ist dafür nur bedingt geeignet, mit einem Direct-Drive FDM-Drucker könnten solche Modelle etwas besser funktionieren, aber im Prinzip ist das für diese Drucktechnologie eher ein Härtetest. "Tough PLA" ist vermutlich auch nicht die beste Wahl, das "schmiert" zu sehr. Hast Du es mal mit "normalem" PLA versucht? Wenn dann noch ein AA 0.25 Printcore benutzt wird, könnte das schon besser aussehen. Auf jeden Fall langsam (alle Druck-Geschwindigkeiten max. 30 mm/s) und so "kühl" wie möglich dru
    1 point
  28. For about a year I have been fighting with a build plate heater problem that comes and goes. The intermittent nature and various errors have made it hard to pinpoint. However I think I found the error and it makes sense. Symptoms, The mainboard thinks the bed heater is at the correct temperature. when It is actually not. Over temperature errors. ER14 Build plate taking to long to heat up error. If I go to the menu - system / build plate / set temperature / enter, and set the temperature with the dial, the left display (actual temperature)
    1 point
  29. Hi @starpen, the model is basically a hollow sphere with an an opening at the bottom. Is this a question about Cura? It generates no infill at all (even if the setting is not zero - left picture). It's more likely that it generates support structures (if support is activated - right picture).
    1 point
  30. Holes create a special problem. The nozzle drags the plastic in a circle and the plastic wants to cut corners so it pulls towards the center making an ID smaller You don't notice it as much on an OD because usually there is an inner wall to act as a dam to keep the plastic outboard. How much it pulls to the middle is affected by a lot of things. The phenomenon is known as the Gr5 Snot Factor after it's discoverer who had a runny nose at the time. The Shell | Hole Horizontal Expansion setting can be used to enlarge a hole. Not all holes are round, it acts on any vertical holes
    1 point
  31. so nun hat es geklappt der Drucker läuft wieder , ich bin strickt nach dieser Anleitung vorgegangen : https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/20024-recovering-a-bricked-um3/ vielleicht hat auch mal jemand das Problem.
    1 point
  32. Hallo, Ja ich kann dir sagen was Schau dir mal von unten die abstände an, du druckst ja mit der linken Nozzle: Abstand Lüfterausgang links zu linken Nozzle = klein Abstand Lüfterausgang rechts zu linken Nozzle = groß Also dein Teil bekommt von rechts gar keine Kühlung, da der Luftstrom dies gar nicht erreicht. Lösungen hat ja Digibike schon ein paar geschrieben, aber per Geisterhand geht das nicht. Da ist ganz schön eine Spielerei mit Temp und Geschwindigkeit. Zwei Teile Drucken ist da schon einfacher Oder vielleicht gleich größer
    1 point
  33. Hallo, Also wenn das Glas noch ganz war kann ja am Heizbett nichts verbogen werden. Wellen wo schlagen kann man auch in eingebauten zustand prüfen, optisch oder evtl. mit einer Messuhr! Optisch würde ich einfach Druckkopf in der Mitte stellen und dann den Druckkopf von vorne nach hinten bewegen und auf den Sliding Block schauen, normal sollte man das erkennen wenn dieser hoch und runter geht. Ich meine sogar das ich darüber schon mal ein Video gesehen/gedreht hatte, aber weder ich noch online finde ich aktuell welche. Somit erkennt man aber nur wenn die W
    1 point
  34. Dieser Verzug war mit Sicherheit nicht im Auslieferungszustand...! Und wenn das Gehäuse so verspannt ist, muß das Irgendwo auch in den "Drehstangen" sich abzeichnen. Schließlich werden die im Gehäuse gelagert. Die Frage ist nur, ob Sie sich zueinander nur mit dem Wandern der Gehäuseteile "Verschoben" haben, oder aber einen "Schlag bekommen haben und dadurch das Gehäuse so verschoben ist. Es ist Zwar Stahl und Massiv, aber eben Rundmaterial. Entsprechend kann es in eine Richtung ausglengt und dauerhaft gebogen werden. Da ist dann ein richten aussichtslos. Schon ein "Schlag von einem Zehntel mer
    1 point
  35. Ah la propriété intellectuelle et ses débordements... j'adore. On se souviendra de cet artisan qui avait réalisé les planchers de la Grande Galerie de l'Evolution du Muséum d'Histoire Naturelle et qui l'avait photographié pour illustrer son site internet et qui c'est fait attaquer en justice par l'architecte à l'origine du projet pour atteinte aux droits de propriété intellectuelle. Et oui, c'est comme ça : tu t'assoies devant une oeuvre d'art, tu sorts ton bloc de papier et ton crayon, tu fais un dessin, tu le publie sur instagram et PAF ! les ayants droits peuvent te tomber dessus car
    1 point
  36. La législation du Fan Art est assez flou. En France, il est interdit de vendre des objets qui appartiennent à des licences. Je reprends souvent le cas d'un graphiste ayant fais des posters de Tintin et qui s'est vu attaqué en justice par la Maison Moulinsart. Le graphiste d'une cinquantaine d'année s'est vu infliger une amende de 30k€ et un peu de prison... Certain.e.s studios/compagnies, autorisent les Fan Art mais de là à les proposer moyennant finances c'est jouer avec le feu je pense. Les lois évoluent vite récemment. Par exemple, au Japon, les ayants droits ont demandé à ce que le
    1 point
  37. Polaroid has an installation guide for using cura on the mac with the PlaySmart 3d Printer. Following the printer setup settings as outlined in the PDF in the download seem to work just fine. There are also other Cura profiles that I have not tested yet in the download. Cura by far is the best slicer program I have tried using to fine tune the prints. This should help you find the installation guide they provide: polaroid3d.com/en/cura-software-installation-guide-for-mac/
    1 point
  38. It does it better in some cases, but worse in others (which is also why it hasn't been merged back into Cura Engine). As a little sneakpeak, this is what "libArachne" does.
    1 point
  39. For a better Gap filling solution don't need to wait 3 months , use the @burtoogle Master Cura Release (aka smartavionics on Github) https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura
    1 point
  40. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    1 point
  41. Prints in a print! A little color to brighten up some gray, rainy fall days here. Flower model by 4frika: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1440472 I found the bowl on ScanTheWorld; I really want to take some more pictures of it from the side. The Matte fiber filament looks good, though I had to sink the model into the bed a few mm since it wasn't flat. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-a-stemmed-bowl-54121
    1 point
  42. No one is saying that it is not possible to level it manually (if auto-level could be disabled). But people are (generally speaking) inherently lazy and often in a rush, so it is a matter of time before a manual level is skipped and a failed print + potential damage will be the result. Which is something we feel very passionate about to prevent. I disagree that it reflects a lack of trust from our end in our bed, we just rather ensure people having a good 3D printing experience. Not often, but sometimes this means taking a little bit of freedom away for the exchange of reliability
    1 point
  43. @neotko just ist watched your video on cabling the Duet3D board in the UM2. What firmware are you using? Marlin ported or another one? You then use the Duet display with, not the UM2 built in anymore? Cura works with it? What do you have to configure? As my UM2 board on my 2nd printer is broken (see other post) I am thinking about how large the Duet3D mod is in comparison to repairing the UM2 board... ;-)
    1 point
  44. Yeah, that's pretty much what happened to me. I don't know how you defined your printer, if you were using one of the ones built into Cura or if it was totally custom. My issue happened because I modified the files for one of the ones included with Cura and that caused an issue on the upgrade. If you are doing your own machine definition files, I strongly recommend you make your own name, unrelated to any that come with Cura, and keep a copy of the definition files outside of Cura in case you need to manually restore them after an update. I appreciate that this software was meant to work w
    1 point
  45. Just to keep it clear for anyone who reads this later, it wasn't an issue with a profile. Those are easy enough to deal with by exporting and importing. This had to do with a custom machine definition, which cannot be exported or saved, and recreating it involves creating/editing JSON files in the program directory. Not trying to dig at you at all - I appreciate the help - it's just that this is a different issue and I don't want anyone to get confused about it. Thanks!
    1 point
  46. I put all my Cura config stuff in a git repo so that from time to time I can make a snapshot to go back to when the latest Cura decides to trash something (I work on the bleeding edge). Of course, once the files are in a repo, it's easy to share the repo between computers.
    1 point
  47. I created a simple script for the "Post Processing" plugin called "OuterWallFan". I wanted to share this script and my experiences using it. I print end-use parts that must be as strong as possible, but also look nice with no visual defects. I discovered that I can create strong prints by not using the cooling fan, but this usually resulted in ugly parts. On the other hand, I can use the cooling fan to make the parts look great, but they were brittle and weak. (You are probably already aware of this 🙂.) I created the “OuterWallFan” script to balance part strength and ae
    1 point
  48. Yes, there's a toggle to drop models to the buildplate in the General preferences.
    1 point
  49. What's under the Down Arrow next to the "Save to File" button?
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...