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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/07/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I am quite proud to announce that sometime this morning, someone was the 1,000,000th to download one of my plugins from the Marketplace! To celebrate, all my Cura plugins will be available today for the very special price of FREE! (oh, wait, they always are 😉). As always, some exciting updates are coming up.
  2. 6 points
    Ultimaker Cura has hundreds of configurable slicing settings in custom mode. If you mouse hover over a particular setting, a description of what the setting does will appear. You can also search for a particular setting using the search bar to get what you need quickly and easily. In an upcoming release, we've also made each setting's description searchable for more ease-of-use. @ghostkeeper has also made a plugin that you can download from the Ultimaker Marketplace that adds even more description to each setting. BUT: Are there settings names in Cura that you find confusing? Maybe"Spiralize Outer Contour" might be clearer to users if we added "A.K.A. Vase Mode" - Maybe you'd like to see more detailed descriptions for each setting? - Maybe you'd like to see some settings in a different category? - Maybe you'd like to see a completely new category? Give us your feedback in this thread and we'll consider it for future releases.
  3. 5 points
    Printed a new air intake for my car. Has a bracket that screw onto the engine to secure it. Printed on the Ultimaker S5 in PA-CF and painted so it doesn't absorb oils and dirt.
  4. 5 points
    Hi, First off i really don't think swearing is needed when asking for help, you are wanting help so be nice to them that want to help. The changes it means are any custom edits you have made to the profile settings, so any settings listed under the "Customized" part, so in the case above its your Printing Temperature (Extruder 1). I personally use it alot, because i edit my settings for supports and cooling so as i swap between profiles for differnet quality or filament types it keeps all my edited settings so i don't have to keep editing them all the time. Then your last image is a setting to pick if you want it to ask you if you want to keep them when you swap between profiles everytime or to auto remove them or auto keep them. I have mine to don't ask becasue like i say i have custom support settings i use for everything.
  5. 4 points
    So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is? You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
  6. 4 points
    Thank you for your many contributions. Cura would only be half as good as it is today without your plugins and the rest of the code. Please continue to surprise us with new ideas and plugins.
  7. 3 points
    I think we still don't have much data about this because I've gotten files that should have this problem print fine, and it happens with network prints and UFP files as well.... I though we'd already see this via sentry but nope... I'll add a way to log it to sentry, I think that's the only way to catch it in the act so to speak. it'll take at-least 2 new version at the earliest to have a fix for this problem but maybe the fact that this is really hard to find/reproduce and it's being looked at helps a bit 😕 BTW we've started using a tool called sentry to collect data on crashes and exceptions like this. it's been super useful in finding things we never saw happen but were, clearly happening to a few people out there.... the first sentry inspired fixes were in the 5.7.3 release.
  8. 3 points
    We have made the explanation a little more clear for 4.7 (not out yet), see this topic: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/7592 The new explanation is a little longer, and mentions the switched-to profile. The column names are also changed from 'Default'/'Customized' to the switched-to profile name and 'Current Changes'. If you want to save the changes (to a new profile), you can select 'Create Profile From Current Settings/Overrides ...' in the drop-down menu, before changing (there is another menu-item for updating one you made earlier).
  9. 3 points
    Making the most out of the S5 build size. Cloud buster sword from Final Fantasy 7 remake that I printed for a friend.
  10. 2 points
    good morning, it came out amazing - its 0.15layer height, 30% infill, no support. just pretty small failures under the ring, but in general im more then happy. Used ABS for that. Thanks for the support.
  11. 2 points
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/1646291262322434/permalink/2698708323747384/ What did you mean on Facebook when you said "Any suggestions before I try to call Support only to be told that I voided some sort of warranty by resoldering their board? :-)" You then said "There’s clearly nothing I could’ve done to ruin the motherboard" but you never shared the photo of the soldering in the Pi and other boards, why? We are here to help but you have to be honest about your intentions. We've all screwed up electronics. We are a community that help people anywhere we see someone asking. Facebook, Twitter, this Forum. We will continue to do so for you and others.
  12. 2 points
    You can already do this by just loading any shape and set it to be a support blocker (in the per-objects setting tool). For all other feature requests, please post them on github (https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/new/choose). It's really hard for us to keep track otherwise.
  13. 2 points
    It's too bad you went this route of doing more force. All you had to do was heat the nozzle to 200C (or probably 150C would be enough) to get it out. What happens is some plastic can get in the threads and hardens in there like loc-tite. Anyway at this point you can either get a new Olsson block or you can try to get that piece of nozzle out. I'd take it out while hot (at 200C). I'd use a thread extractor. Search for "thread extractor" on the internet. I don't know what size is best so I'd get a few. But if you want this working again quickly just buy a new Olsson block. As far as the Ruby nozzles are concerned, Ulrich is talking about the 3dsolex product. It's just as good (better?) than the Olsson ruby and it costs less and is MUCH stronger because of the way it is built. The Olsson Ruby can dissentegrate at 2-3Nm if I remember right. The 3dsolex won't break until somewhere around 4-6Nm of torque. It's because the Olsson ruby is double walled in the threaded region - the inner cylinder holds the ruby in place. 3DSolex went a completely different route to hold the ruby in place. disclaimer - I sell 3dsolex rubies (aka Everlast) in my store - thegr5store.com
  14. 2 points
    I designed and printed some large (x5 scale) flowers that are inspired by the lego ones. I also designed some additional bricks to build some kind of flowerpot (but I'm not yet happy with it 🤔).
  15. 2 points
    Webcam images are now available in the cloud (with a 10-second interval)! If you install the latest Ultimaker S3 or S5 firmware you will see the webcam icon appear in the Digital Factory.
  16. 2 points
    The cloud-based Digital Factory currently supports all the features that Cura Connect had in the local network, with the exception of printer analytics (but this in progress). You need the latest firmware for S3 or S5. UM3 has limited support due to the lower frequency of firmware updates for that (older) machine. All our cloud-based products have APIs though, so data that might not be visible in our user interfaces yet might be available in an API, and you could hook up your own front-end to it.
  17. 2 points
    I can also tell you something about the rationale; With a 0.25 nozzle and 0.06 layerheight, the steps that the feeder would need to make get really, really small. So small that it will start to cause artifacts in your print. So as much as we tried, we really couldn't get the 0.06 profiles to work in a way that was anyway better than the 0.1 ones, so that's why they didn't make it (because it does take a lot longer to print)
  18. 2 points
    Printed a bracket in PA-GF to mount a controller in my glovebox of my car. It clips into existing holes in the glovebox and blends in quite nicely.
  19. 2 points
    I have received some questions about this form and it might be good to clarify that nothing will be published or shared without your approval. We understand that when you use 3D printing professionally, company policies may apply to you where you can not be making statements on behalf of a company. That shouldn't be a problem. We can leave the company name out and share your story or quote on behalf of you, the user. Obviously, if you are just a happy customer without a story to share, please drop a message below and let us know why 🙂
  20. 2 points
  21. 2 points
    The blowtorch did the trick. I wouldn't say good as new, but I guess it's still very much usable. Thanks again! 😃 👍
  22. 2 points
    To cut a long story short I often do the following. 1. I remove the fan plate (4 screws with M3 on the sides) 2. i go to menu - > maintenance -> and heat the print head manually 3. Then I remove the material with pliers. !!! Of course, this is not a harmless thing to do. Because the temperature nozzle is very high at 200°. Do not touch (do not eat etc.) !!! I almost forgot. Afterwards, I'll pray. That nothing is broken.
  23. 2 points
    You can try warming the filament up with a heat gun and pulling the filament away with tweezers as it becomes soft, just try not to aim to much direct heat at any wires.
  24. 2 points
    If i'm understanding this right the slice in Cura looks fine, but when you print on your printer you have gaps between the filament paths of the top layers? Could you share a image of one of the prints you have done because seeing the problem first hand via a image can really help to see and understand the problem better than just words.
  25. 2 points
    Yeah I'll be a bit more thorough, also including 2.3.1 which was the latest 32-bit release: http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_amd64.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_i386.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win64.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1.AppImage
  26. 2 points
    Hi all, I was beaten to the punch by Link, but here it is officially too: Firmware 5.7.3 has been released for the S-line printers. Theres some much requested features in there, such as the Material Station lights being adjustable for the pro Bundle and the camera streaming images over the cloud in the digital factory (both S5 and S3) You can read the full release notes here. Enjoy!
  27. 2 points
    Yes, I lost all my statistics and analytics (actually they were already inaccessible after the upgrade but before the reset). The only real way I can count machine hours is through the nozzle data which is obviously not the best solution. Thanks for all your hard work!
  28. 2 points
    I had the same issue, couldn't connect using the code on the screen. What I had to do was to Reset Digital Factory after the update and then it worked perfectly (same issue on both of our S5's).
  29. 2 points
    I see no difference between asking yes/no or keep/discard. Nothing else happens in the current dialog. We have a lot of questions regarding Cura, how to setup specific needs and so on, but I never have seen a question that this simple dialog is confusing, so I guess the rest of the world can use it as is without any problems. That's fine, I also think it is a great software. If you love it, just use it as many others do, it's free for everyone and not only for UM owners. If Ultimaker maybe wants also address the professional market too someday, I guess they will be very thankful for your advise and hint. 😜 But that's exactly what professionals need, they want to fine tune it for perfect results. If you are overwhelmed by this, there is also the simple mode with very few options. And new functions have no side effect, if you don't need them, just hide or ignore them and you are fine.
  30. 2 points
    It’s likely best if you share the .3mf file as that saves your settings and stl in a Cura project file. Just go to file and save after you have loaded the stl into Cura.
  31. 2 points
    The setExtraOverhang function creates a buffer on which to draw. Think like MS Paint. You're actually drawing just with a black pen on a white canvas. While you're drawing (the mouse is holding down) Cura's rendering system will draw everything that's black on that buffer in red if it's on the object. When you let go of the mouse, Cura will look up all of the black pixels from that buffer and spray tiny cubes on your object by drawing rays from the camera through the centres of those pixels. I don't think it should be replaced, really, although it would need to be moved to the correct plug-in somehow. The bear on the road I was facing was to make the overhang erasable again. I think it would need to be implemented through some unique ID for each cube which gets translated to a colour on the render buffer, so that we can look up which cubes to delete from the scene by looking at which colours are within a certain circle in that render buffer. On top of that, you'd want to also erase the original overhang that Cura normally already renders red, although that may be considered optional. Aside from that, I was also just changing the theme to make support meshes render red as if they are overhang on your model. That would also affect normal support meshes that the user places, which is not nice. This is probably not so difficult to fix in Cura but may be difficult from a plug-in. The plug-in was created during a research sprint several years ago, where we got 2 weeks to develop something which we thought was progressive. I had this proof of concept, but due to lack of research time on Ultimaker's planning I was never able to finish it. Well, turns out I was indeed progressive; 2 years ahead of Slic3r PE, which just added a similar feature to their latest release (and did manage to finish it).
  32. 2 points
    Yes, all sorted for me too. Big 👍 👍👍 for the Ultimaker Essentials support team!!
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Hi, For the Bowden tube slipping out of the feeder, check that the tube coupling collet (the round item that you push the Bowden into) as all its teeth still so it can grip the bowden. If the coupling collet is all fine then cut around 4mm off the end of the Bowden tube, this will mean the coupling collet will now be gripping a fresh part of the Bowden tube as it’s likely that where it gripped before if worn and that’s why the Bowden tube was able to slip free from the feeder.
  35. 2 points
    Please also share the model (preferably in a project file, that way we also have your setup available!)
  36. 2 points
    Support solved this issue for me! 🙂 @SteveCox3D if this is also the case for you I think this thread can be closed.
  37. 2 points
    I wrote sometime ago this article and it covers the important settings: In order to print dimensionally accurate parts, we need to adjust some parameters. Each one of them helps us to go one step further, and in combination we have a perfect engineering profile which we can save in Cura. In principle, the following rules apply to any 3D printer, but some values may need to be adjusted for other printers. Some golden rules Print slow The slower the printing, the more positive the effect on dimensional accuracy. Ideally, you should print between 25-45mm/sec. Print cool The best results are obtained by printing as cold as possible. One way to find the right printing temperature would be to reduce the temperature until you see under extrusion and then raise it 5-10°C again. Unify speeds One of the most important rules is to set all speeds in Cura to the same value. Cura usually calculates the print speeds according to a specific formula. Infill, for example, prints much faster than an outer wall. Due to the permanent acceleration and deceleration, a certain under or over extrusion always occurs, which in turn negatively influences our dimensional accuracy. Acceleration & jerk control Acceleration and Jerk Control decelerate the print head before and accelerate it after a change of direction, so that less vibration occurs when printing e.g. a 90° corner. However, as with the different speeds, over- or under-extrusion can also occur. This can be seen very clearly at a 90° corner, which is then slightly bulged outwards. For dimensionally accurate prints, the two options should therefore be switched off. But there is also a disadvantage, because if the print head then goes around the corner unbraked, vibrations arise which then show up through so-called ringing on the surface. But this ringing is only optically visible and not really measurable. So for technical parts, where the surface is not important, but the dimensional accuracy, Acceleration and Jerk Control should still be switched off. You have to find a balance between ringing and dimensional accuracy. If the surface quality is important, the values for Acceleration & Jerk Control can be adjusted to obtain a good balance. Elephant foot The so-called elephant foot is created on the first layer, where the material is pressed into the print-bed to achieve optimum adhesion. This also displaces the material and creates a lateral bulge. The object is then slightly thicker on the underside than in other places. The "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" option can be used to adjust this behavior. Common values would be -0.2 or -0-3 mm depending on nozzle diameter. Engineering profile settings for Ultimaker Cura Line Width: 0.4 Wall Thickness: 1.2 Wall Line Count: 3 Top/Bottom Thickness: 1.2 Print Speed: 40 Infill Speed: 40 Wall Speed: 40 Outer Wall Speed: 40 Inner Wall Speed: 40 Top/Bottom Speed: 40 Print Jerk: 20 Infill Jerk: 20 Wall Jerk: 20 Outer Wall Jerk: 20 Inner Wall Jerk: 20 Top/Bottom Jerk: 20 Horizontal Expansion: -0.03 Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion = -0.2 Additional settings you can try Inital Layer Height = 0.1 Slicing Tolerance = Exclude Enable Jerk Control = not checked Enable Acceleration Control = not checked Outer Before Inner Walls = checked Combing Mode = off Finally, an important note There is no universal profile that fits everywhere and delivers good results. Too many factors play a role here, the filament to be printed, but also the ambient temperature and humidity. You will get different results on hot humid summer days than on cold dry winter days. Therefore one should always make a few test prints before a larger print job and if necessary adapt the parameters to the conditions.
  38. 2 points
    You don't need your own stage for that. The SupportEraser adds the picking pass to the Prepare and Preview pass, and OP's plugin could do the same. The problem though is that you can only get 8 bit RGBA values from the pass. Pickingpass uses a shader to encode a 24 bit "greyscale" value in the 3 R,G and B bytes. But for a normal vector, you would really want to have 3 16 bit floats. You could try to encode floats in ints, but you would still need 3 of them, and with a single renderpass you only get 4*8=32 bit maximum. My still-in-development measuring plugin creates 3 passes to get a more accurate position than what the pickingpass affords. Perhaps OP can have another look there: https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-MeasureTool/
  39. 2 points
    Can you clarify what you mean about calibrating the printhead? Are you looking to check the alignment of your axles and check for play? I've got a guide here. Bowden tube and couplers are the top things I usually replace. With that much runtime on the belts though, you may want to replace those as well. I usually find they need it between about 3k and 4k print hours depending on the printing environment. I've got a guide for that here. If you're seeing a lot of black dust building up on top of your XY motors or the belts have gotten noisy, it's time to replace them.
  40. 2 points
    Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
  41. 2 points
    I can only concur with previous posters! Sidebar and Octoprint plugins are a must for me, and thank you for all the help you provide us with on the forum(s). You are a 3D printing hero 😉
  42. 2 points
    And this is just with the "official" plugins but if you add also your other source code on Github it's certainly much more. Thank's a lot for your contribution. You are definitly a great source of inspiration.
  43. 2 points
    Hi, that preview looks normal, on the right side of the screen is a bar you need to drag the top of that bar down to view the lower layers as right now you are viewing the last layer (layer 349) so that is where the preview play button will play from. As you drag the right side bar down from the top you will see the layers below and can preview them.
  44. 2 points
    The little rear fan (nozzle-cooling) should always be on when printing (when the nozzle is above 40°C). If not, check if there are no hairs and strings of filament or dust stuck in it. Check the connections and wires. If the bearings would be worn-out, or the wires broken, replace.
  45. 2 points
    If you say the fan is "making noises", it could be: - There are filament hairs and strings stuck into it, hindering the rotation. - Or the fan bearings are worn-out. This was very common on similar CPU-fans in older computers (286-386-etc.). If you don't have a replacement yet, you can extend the life of the fan a little bit by lubricating the bearings: using a needle, cut through the silver label covering the bearing, and then inject a drop of bearing oil into it. This is obviously not a permanent solution, but I did use this quite often on computer fans in the old days, and it can extend fan life for a couple of months. Enough to keep working and meanwhile find a replacement fan (and time to install it).
  46. 1 point
    Well there ya go. You can carry on a conversation with your printer now. "M503" you said. "echo:busy: processing" it replied.
  47. 1 point
    Congratulation! Way to go, -can only go higher! Thanks Torgeir
  48. 1 point
    I sent this email to Cura support but I'm also posting it here, hoping this generates some interest and gains consideration for adopting this feature.
  49. 1 point
    Is Ultimaker planning to release a scaled down version of the Air Manager for the S3 printer? Or even a smaller material station? I would think you could get 4 spools into the smaller S3 footprint.
  50. 1 point
    When I do a two colour print in cura and switch to a different extruder, cura powers up the newly chosen nozzle and waits until it has reached operating temperature before it continues. Cura does not however start dropping the temperature of the now unused nozzle to it's standby temperature until the new extruder is at temperature. It seems that the command to drop the current temperature is executed after the command to bring the new extruder up to temperature. The result is that the now inactive but still at temperature nozzle gets dragged over the model and contaminates the print. Is there a trick to get Cura to allow cooldown of one nozzle while the second one heats up ? Of course it would be ideal if Cura could heat up one nozzle, cool down the other nozzle at the same time and wait until both nozzles have reached there commanded temperatures.
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