Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/20/2020 in all areas

  1. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    5 points
  2. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    4 points
  3. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    3 points
  4. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
    2 points
  5. No extra Raspberry Pi! No extra PSU! No extra firmware and keep it up to date! No extra "company" to ask questions if having problems! No extra I don't know what, but I'm sure there is more...
    2 points
  6. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  7. I'm confused as to why the 2+ is replaced by the 2+ Connect without an upgrade option for current owners. If this is true, then I'm out. I'll keep using my Ultimaker 2+ until it dies, but I'm not buying anymore Ultimaker products. I bought Ultimaker as upgradability was in the sprit of their products. Make it upgradable and let me keep this printer current or I can jump to a manufacturer who does.
    2 points
  8. Das sind die Default werde aus der Firmware (eine etwas ältere da ich die zu Hand hatte) Für UM2 also 25Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.0 #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.5 #define DEFAULT_Kd 100.0 Für UM2+ also 35Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.03 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.50 #define DEFAULT_Kd 70.0 Da ich schon seit einiger zeit auf Duet Board umgerüstet habe, und da scheinbar das "Auto Tune" ordentliche Werte geliefert hatte (ich weis es gar nicht mehr genau, aber wo her soll ich diese Werte her haben) Habe ich folgende Werte eingestellt:
    2 points
  9. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
    2 points
  10. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  11. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
    1 point
  12. Well done gr5. You sorted. The X Y Z were all set at 100mm instead of 200MM. For information:- When i got this printer in September I had a lot of models that wouldn't stick down properly. Got in touch with Labists who said that the temp on the base should be 60' and the extruder should be 240' when i pointed out to them that their manual recommended 50' and 200' they admitted it was printed wrong, but were not going to change till next year. I also got a roll of decorators blue tape. I've not had anything come loose since. Once again thanks for your help.
    1 point
  13. Hi @eric_huang, You added many pictures of your problem and this is really a good information that's give some information of your problem. I'll think your problem is the first layer nozzle pressure that's very high and this is "often" caused by "too close" bed nozzle distance. However, In the latest versions of Cura, the initial flow (for your printer UM3) is increased from 100% to 120%. I do not know if this is made intentionally or not, but I'll think this might be your problem if you use the last version of Cura. According to Cura 4.5 your printer use 100% flow i
    1 point
  14. Wir drücken die Daumen, haben im Lockdown eh nicht viel zu tun 🙂
    1 point
  15. Well, rule N°One on these forums , When @ahoeben say's something it's true. So yes in Cura you can print something from an Image even if it's not the best solution.
    1 point
  16. Really? The v1.5.7 is such a piece of crap it can't even switch on the heated bed? Okay according to here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB it can switch up to 55 amps! That's over 1000 watts. I don't think you need a relay - just hook it straight up. A more serious issue is how many ohms is this heated bed. Heated beds are all a fixed resistance and the wattage depends on the voltage. I'm guessing you have a 24V supply. So for example if it's 200W at 18 volts then that means your heated bed is 1.62 ohms and at 24V that is 355 Watts. So hopefully y
    1 point
  17. It seems likely you are printing or have not clicked the confirm removal button on your print. Please confirm removal and/or abort or wait for any running print to finish completely. The printer will reboot so to preserve a running print we don't allow users to enable/disable this setting during printing. Can you check if that solves the problem for you?
    1 point
  18. here is the link: Made a quick tutorial on how to install a Creator Pro profile for Ultimaker Cura! I couldn't find any videos out there so I thought it may help some people! let me know if you want a video to dive deeper into the .json files that I used in this tutorial and what is inside them (and possibly how you can make one on your own for another printer that is not listed in the the Cura machine library). Share this with your friends who have the Creator Pro, and if you couldn't figure it out, ask your ques
    1 point
  19. @Cuq, it looks old because I haven't updated the master branch. Find the most recent artifacts here. You can see which branch they are associated with on the right. Find 'ArcWelder' or 'ArcWelder.exe' in the bin folder of the zip and run with the --help flag for documentation. Let me know how it goes!
    1 point
  20. I'm sorry I can no longer help. I just deciphered your screen name and I'm a Goldwing guy. If I was inclined to help (which I'm most assuredly not), I'd say to check things like "initial layer line width %" or maybe "initial layer flow". Maybe it's something simple like you accidentally deleted the Minus sign. I searched through the settings for "initial" but nothing much came up that would cause elephant's foot. Sometimes when using a brim 1 stripe of plastic will stick to the bottom of the model and make it look like elephant's foot. Check initial layer bed temp a
    1 point
  21. Starting to understand some cura limitations here - if I uncheck print thin walls it only does two layers ... For the sake of my test I can go with a solid. There is no complexity in the Fusion drawing, it is simply a box with thin walls that Cura clearly can't handle. I can confirm that if I send as a solid and print single perimeter with no infill and no top layer that it actually gets it right - but the colour of the box becomes red 'Shell' .. in preview on the corners front I need it as per above - square - so that I can assess any impact of ringing / je
    1 point
  22. I my opinion the upgrade would not need to cover the face plate ext it's only the network connection that is really missing in the UM2+
    1 point
  23. Cura only shows those buttons for the "active" printer. You have multiple printers added to Cura, and only one of them is active. Use the "Activate" button in that dialog. By the way, there seems to be something fishy going on with your UI. The topbar has gone transparent. Did you create a theme for that, or should we try to diagnose that issue too?
    1 point
  24. The ArcWelder was originally conceived to reduce stutter resulting from buffer underruns while sending many small gcode moves over the USB connection. The protocol for printing over USB is rather inefficient, and if processing the transfer of a gcode command takes longer than actually doing the move then you get a stutter. Printing from SD does not suffer from this.
    1 point
  25. I just re-installed Windows and all my other software to get Cura working again. Pretty disappointing. If it happens again I will give up on Cura.
    1 point
  26. Also die 50 Watt scheinen mir auch sehr Überdimensioniert. Die größte Herausforderung für die Patronen ist wahrscheinlich der plötzliche Lüfter Einsatz bzw. stellen (große plane Flächen) im Modell, wo dann die Luft abprallt und direkt auf den Heaterblock/Nozzle bläst und abkühlt. Wenn ich mich an den 25W Patronen zurück erinnere, kam der Heater Error eigentlich nur in Verbindung mit den Lüfter. Das kannst du bei deinen aktuellen Teile evtl. auch mal testen, vielleicht gibt es dir eine bessere gleichmäßigere Layer Qualität, einfach mal den Lüfter nur auf max.
    1 point
  27. I recently got an Ender 5+ and encountered this problem as well when i started using Cura. Below is the solution I came up with. It's not perfect but it does the job: Original GCode snippet to replace: G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 ;Move to side a little Replacement GCode snippet: ; note: - replace the Y value to something that matches your printer dimensions ; - i used Y300 because my printer has a max Y of 350
    1 point
  28. You are totally right! And hey, I'm an engineer, I can build my own printer! In fact I can build almost anything by my own - but I have not the time to do so. And that's the reason why I decided to buy and not to build a 3d printer. And the reason why it's an Ultimaker, I wrote in my last post.
    1 point
  29. Also wenn du nicht vor hast mit einer 1mm Düse mit 0.6 Layerhöhe und rasender Geschwindigkeit zu drucken, bringt dir der 50W Heizer wahrscheinlich mehr Probleme als er bringt. Die paar Sekunden schnellere Aufheizzeit sind zum vernachlässigen und wenn die Düse dann auf Temperatur ist, dann ist es völlig egal ob 35W oder 50W. Die Schwankungen werden aber sicher mehr werden.
    1 point
  30. Die Frage ist doch erst ein paar Stunden alt....? Lass dem George mal noch ein bisschen Zeit, schließlich ist der in einer ganz anderen Zeitzone. Die Standardwerte für den UM2+ (35W) stehen hier: https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware/blob/UM2.1_JarJar/Marlin/Configuration.h#L206 Ich bin mit den folgenden Werten ganz zufrieden (35W), aber perfekt ist das wahrscheinlich auch noch nicht: p:12.00 i:0.75 d:75.00 Ich glaube, Heizwiderstände sind auch nicht alle präzise 35W (auch wenn sie als solche verkauft werden). Da gibt es durchaus Schwanku
    1 point
  31. Hi To update my last post the following is the full extent of the session with Cura. I was able to load a 'stl' and slice it successfully with the appropriate settings for the printer . Octoprint loaded the file ok . pi@raspberrypi:~/Documents $ ./Cura-mb-master-armhf-20201111.AppImage Found libGLESv2 Attribute Qt::AA_UseDesktopOpenGL must be set before QCoreApplication is created. QEGLPlatformContext: Failed to create context: 3009 qml: TableViewSelection: index out of range Case insensitive sorting unsupported in the posix collation implementation
    1 point
  32. Got the printer fully working now with ultipanel controller, hot end temperature works perfect with amplifier e3d pt100 board, resistor R23 cut and firmware with sensor 20, same as um2. I would like to have the full graphics if I can sort the firmware.
    1 point
  33. Yes gr5, mentioned it on my second post Also I have installed the e3d board that supposed read the pt100 from head and send reading to the board, but I am having 68ºC at room temperature and it doesnt change.
    1 point
  34. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    1 point
  35. As the owner of two UM2+, I find it admirable that Ultimaker is improving their older models instead of just leaving them in the dust, lol. Any chance of making a retrofit kit to make older UM2's compatible with the UM Digital Workflow?
    1 point
  36. It's a known issue that Cura is super slow to start if the X drive is used (if i recall correctly). Since that doesn't happen often it never got priority to get fixed.
    1 point
  37. The small frame all around is probably reserved for the brim - take a look at the build plate adhesion method. The other areas are probably not reachable for all extruders because of defined extruder x/y offsets. I would disable all extruders but one to check the reachable area (and set correct offsets where needed of course). If the firmware already takes care about those things, you should set all offsets in Cura to zero. Cura will un-block these areas then.
    1 point
  38. Prints in a print! A little color to brighten up some gray, rainy fall days here. Flower model by 4frika: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1440472 I found the bowl on ScanTheWorld; I really want to take some more pictures of it from the side. The Matte fiber filament looks good, though I had to sink the model into the bed a few mm since it wasn't flat. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-a-stemmed-bowl-54121
    1 point
  39. I guess there are a lot of users which don't want to have the lights on because it shines through the windows. I can remember a user who has his printer in the garage for example and want to avoid that the neighbours or others see that there is something in there. So in my opinion it would be really great to have a button in the DF to switch the lights on and off.
    1 point
  40. As far as I know, currently not. The mobile app only notifies you about the start and the end of a print job, but not about an error. Ultimaker is aware about that, so I am sure they work on a solution.
    1 point
  41. I have personally made some little anti-vibration feet for my S5 now because its on a wood desk so hopefully it will take out some the vibration and sound when printer is in use, more so because i have 2 s5 side by side printing. Best to use a TPU filament with around 50% infill, have added the stl files below for both right and left hand feet. It also gives about 6mm of extra height under the printer what gives better air flow for the fan under it. Or like i do i store the 2nd glass build plate under the printer. Body1.stl Body2.stl
    1 point
  42. Instructions - Copy the text (except the instructions at the beginning) of this log file and paste it at the end of your EndG-code in the Machine Settings window of your printer - After that all your GCode files will have at the end a complete list of your current settings for each print here a picture of a few lines of the result Very useful if you want to compare settings with someone else Also if you are analysing results vs settings, just put them in a spreadsheet to focus on the changing parameters very easily Notice ther
    1 point
  43. Hi, I've been having this issue for a few days now. I get the "Nozzle offset probe failed. Check the nozzles and bed and try again. When auto-leveling, the bed comes up and pushes core 2 into the print head. No matter how high I manually level the bed, I get the same issue. Here is what I've tried so far. Manually leveled the bed, at numerous different heights (tight springs to loose springs), re-seated the print head wire harness, re-seated the sensor plug, unplugged the fan and tried without it, updated firmware, changed print cores out with brand
    1 point
  44. Yep defo go with a Polybox, it’s what I use on mine.
    1 point
  45. There are a few things to check. One thing you don't need to worry about is the firmware or rebooting. That rebooting "fixed" your issue is probably a coincidence. 1) First and foremost, check the wires. Swing open the print head and check the wires. The sensor is a flat plate at the base of the print head (as close as possible and paraellel to the print bed when doing active leveling). There are 2 wires there (for me it's a red and white wire). Tug on each gently and if one is disconnected then this is the issue. Also remove the 2 screws at the back of the print head (very
    1 point
  46. Bye bye soft and hello shiny lol! However the soft coating felt really nice like silk or satin or something, very smooth to the touch! I have 2 more skulls to play with, The shinyness really brings out the subtle imperfections! This is because im not dipping and only light brushing trying to maintain maximum detail. A long dip would sort out most layer lines but at the cost of sharp corners and subtle cavitities.gonna try a blue patina one next. They always look sexy but decay real fast if not sealed right!!! I may have to do a terminator skull next...
    1 point
  47. This the third object I've printed, the spiral vase! Very happy with it, all default settings, no support, UltiM white PLA, 200microns and no infill. 99% scale at 198mm, 6h 50min print time
    1 point
  48. Hi guys, I'm new to the community. I'm enjoying my ultimaker 2+ since couple of year now. This machine is super great and I never stop experiencing to get the most of it. Not easy to follow up though with all the updates, new material and stuff. But love this. I' using mostly my ultimaker to build mold therefore I'm not that into the detail of the best finishing of my prints. I use mostly the most rapid execution possible. here an example of my recent creation. It's a fully functional coffee machine based on Nespresso Essenza mini. ( I Love coffee) I have created a
    1 point
  49. I think this is the file you mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qeplfe7opojftuy/MiniCalTest.stl?dl=0
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...