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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/17/2020 in all areas

  1. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    4 points
  2. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    4 points
  3. Introduction Marco Polo, Christopher Columbus, Vasco da Gama, Amerigo Vespucci, James Cook. What do they all have in common, and what could they possibly be doing in a post related to 3D Printing and Generative Design? The obvious answer to what they have in common is that they were all explorers, many of them from an era known as The Age of Discovery. The reason they relate to this post is that Generative Design has been created for “design explorers” and it provides a method for navigating a route through to the discovery of the kind of design outcomes the like of whi
    4 points
  4. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  5. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    2 points
  6. I'm confused as to why the 2+ is replaced by the 2+ Connect without an upgrade option for current owners. If this is true, then I'm out. I'll keep using my Ultimaker 2+ until it dies, but I'm not buying anymore Ultimaker products. I bought Ultimaker as upgradability was in the sprit of their products. Make it upgradable and let me keep this printer current or I can jump to a manufacturer who does.
    2 points
  7. Das sind die Default werde aus der Firmware (eine etwas ältere da ich die zu Hand hatte) Für UM2 also 25Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.0 #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.5 #define DEFAULT_Kd 100.0 Für UM2+ also 35Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.03 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.50 #define DEFAULT_Kd 70.0 Da ich schon seit einiger zeit auf Duet Board umgerüstet habe, und da scheinbar das "Auto Tune" ordentliche Werte geliefert hatte (ich weis es gar nicht mehr genau, aber wo her soll ich diese Werte her haben) Habe ich folgende Werte eingestellt:
    2 points
  8. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
    2 points
  9. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    2 points
  10. I know what you mean and the reason is, that the line width is very small, therefore it is not printed by default. But there are several options, not sure which one is responsible for that, but try: Filter Out Tiny Gaps -> unchecked Compensate Wall Overlaps And this could also help, when you print the outer wall before inner wall: Outer before Inner Walls Can you upload your STL or project file here, then we can also check it.
    2 points
  11. First I should warn you that there are something like 100 machine settings that aren't shown in these dialogs unfortunately. You can include CAD files of your printer to make it prettier in the GUI for example. But it should be enough to get good prints for most printers. Also document what you did well because sometimes when you upgrade Cura (rarely) you get messed up profiles and the solution is to blow away all user files (like printer settings). Next, "creatware" is a fork of an older version of Cura. Cura version 15.X I think (15 refers to 2015). Cura 2.X came out that ye
    2 points
  12. All related files can be downloaded from Thingiverse now with following URL. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4655216/files
    2 points
  13. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    2 points
  14. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  15. Wir drücken die Daumen, haben im Lockdown eh nicht viel zu tun 🙂
    1 point
  16. I'm sorry I can no longer help. I just deciphered your screen name and I'm a Goldwing guy. If I was inclined to help (which I'm most assuredly not), I'd say to check things like "initial layer line width %" or maybe "initial layer flow". Maybe it's something simple like you accidentally deleted the Minus sign. I searched through the settings for "initial" but nothing much came up that would cause elephant's foot. Sometimes when using a brim 1 stripe of plastic will stick to the bottom of the model and make it look like elephant's foot. Check initial layer bed temp a
    1 point
  17. Starting to understand some cura limitations here - if I uncheck print thin walls it only does two layers ... For the sake of my test I can go with a solid. There is no complexity in the Fusion drawing, it is simply a box with thin walls that Cura clearly can't handle. I can confirm that if I send as a solid and print single perimeter with no infill and no top layer that it actually gets it right - but the colour of the box becomes red 'Shell' .. in preview on the corners front I need it as per above - square - so that I can assess any impact of ringing / je
    1 point
  18. Hi, You can turn developer mode on and off via the printer's display (in the settings menu). Depending on whether you have an Ultimaker 3, S3 or S5 it'll be in a different location in the menu structure. Chris
    1 point
  19. Das Teilen ist nicht nötig. Man kann ein Modifier Mesh definieren, dieses so skalieren und positionieren, dass es das fragliche Volumen überlappt und dann den anderen Extruder diesem Volumen zuteilen.
    1 point
  20. Also wenn du nicht vor hast mit einer 1mm Düse mit 0.6 Layerhöhe und rasender Geschwindigkeit zu drucken, bringt dir der 50W Heizer wahrscheinlich mehr Probleme als er bringt. Die paar Sekunden schnellere Aufheizzeit sind zum vernachlässigen und wenn die Düse dann auf Temperatur ist, dann ist es völlig egal ob 35W oder 50W. Die Schwankungen werden aber sicher mehr werden.
    1 point
  21. Sir - thank you, so much. Everything you suggest has been massively helpful. let me begin: I got the model from ThingiVerse, so don't know the original CAD prog. I messed with it in TinkerCad, because I'm a retired old fart on a limited budget. It has been great for me, though I accept 'proper' makers would scoff. I downloaded the mesh plugin for Cura and did as you suggested, and it says the model is not watwertight - so you got that totally correct. It also said, after I went through your guidance, that it was not repairable with the plugin - I guess I'm not surprised. Yes, the photos I
    1 point
  22. "I guess I should just quit obsessing with the line width" That's what I advise. The E numbers you see in a Gcode file are "mm of filament" (some printers use mm^3). When you calibrate the E steps and tell the printer to extrude 30mm of filament and pretty near exactly 30mm goes through the extruder gear, that's it...you are done. Move on. As @gr5 says, you need to measure back further. I always calibrate the E steps when I change nozzles because I find it easier that way. You could pull the bowden tube out of one end and measure there or just measure before the extruder moto
    1 point
  23. Hi To update my last post the following is the full extent of the session with Cura. I was able to load a 'stl' and slice it successfully with the appropriate settings for the printer . Octoprint loaded the file ok . pi@raspberrypi:~/Documents $ ./Cura-mb-master-armhf-20201111.AppImage Found libGLESv2 Attribute Qt::AA_UseDesktopOpenGL must be set before QCoreApplication is created. QEGLPlatformContext: Failed to create context: 3009 qml: TableViewSelection: index out of range Case insensitive sorting unsupported in the posix collation implementation
    1 point
  24. Call off the dogs. I found the problem. Seems the part was printing was too small and the print head was running over the same area before it was set. I printed it along side of another part and it came out perfect. Stay tuned. I will likely have other problems in the future. Thanks folks.
    1 point
  25. Got the printer fully working now with ultipanel controller, hot end temperature works perfect with amplifier e3d pt100 board, resistor R23 cut and firmware with sensor 20, same as um2. I would like to have the full graphics if I can sort the firmware.
    1 point
  26. @VerveDesign We are currently looking into the issue you posted, regarding the endless wait after a print has finished. I have a quick question, if this is a possibility for you to do at the moment, or maybe you've already tried this, please try this: unload and remove materials from the material station. reboot (fully disconnect from the power source) load the desired materials in the material station again. After doing this and starting a print, do you still suffer from the endless wait? On a different note: if you are able to remember, could you provide any
    1 point
  27. Okay well you have underextrusion and here is the complete list below. It's a big list with 26 items but many should be easy to eliminate. For example if temperatures are <75F 24C in the room with the printer that's one thing you can instantly eliminate. You can ignore #1 as well as long as you are printing at 200C or hotter. I would first look ABOVE #1 below and test the feeder. It is so damn easy to test the feeder - takes a minute. Then I would measure the filament diameter (#11 below). Then I would look at #18 and #23 and #6 below. Also easy to check.
    1 point
  28. Hello, It is due to a variety of reasons. You can find some more information about each of the reasons on the designated material pages. Here it the page to TPU for example: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011940440-How-to-print-with-Ultimaker-TPU-95A It says: "Because TPU 95A is prone to oozing, we don’t officially support printing TPU 95A in combination with other materials.". PP we only have in neutral, so there is not really a reason to print it dual extrusion. But in any case, I would recommend to check the designated material p
    1 point
  29. Warping halfway through the print is called delamination, just a small fyi 🙂It is just as warping a sign that it is cooling a little bit too fast, so increasing temperature would probably help. If the material page suggests 45ºC, I would recommend to try that. It is within the safety range. Let us know how it goes!
    1 point
  30. The maximum temperature you can set in Cura is 50ºC. In theory it is possible to damage part when the printer is enclosed and temperature gets too hot, but the fan from the Air Manager should prevent this from happening. So as long as it is active, you should be fine. Hope this helps!
    1 point
  31. I found reason, Slicing Tolerance = 'Exclusive' :-(. For 'Middle' or 'Inclusive' it is ok.
    1 point
  32. You can make it a lot easier to remove/replace the bowden tube by printing a couple of these clips. They are much easier to handle than the standard pneumatic clips. Pull it out, push the white ring down, and pull out the tube. Replace in opposite way: push tube down while lifting the ring, then insert the clip. See here for the files (and then scroll down): https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/
    1 point
  33. I'm pretty sure you are right about the positive/negative numbers but again - it won't matter unless you print multiple parts in "one at a time" mode. And the nozzle distance - I have no idea why one would be 72 - sorry. 21 sounds like a more common nozzle distance to me. Dual printing is complicated. Most printers use T0 to mean switch to the first extruder and T1 for the second and use E for both extruders. Some printers use E0 for the first and E1 for the second and don't even mention a T command. So some printers if you want to heat the second nozzle you need two commands
    1 point
  34. You meant this list: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/Replacement_Patterns.html
    1 point
  35. You can remove the material manually via the printer api: http://<PRINTER-IP>/docs/api/#/Materials Read the upper part with authentication, you need to create an user first.
    1 point
  36. There are several issues with your STL file. It is not watertight, so the object is "open" somewhere, the faces are not closed/watertight. It is possible but not the best solution to use Blender for modeling for 3D printing. Better you use a CAD software like Fusion360, Tinkercad, Onsape, etc. They are free or free for non commercial usage. If you still want to use Blender search YouTube how to model for 3D printing and what is important. I don't use Blender so I cannot give you some advices. If you want to rescue your current model you could try if a STL
    1 point
  37. Did you read the article about "manifold geometry"? You have to model an object that can exist in the physical world. Walls without thickness do not exists and are not magically generated. You have to model them. It doesn't matter how you do this. Extrude the faces, use insets, close the geometry - whatever works for the given task. 🤷‍♂️ The solidify modifier can't repair a broken topology. It's possible with Blender - there are lots of tutorials on youtube about proper hard surface modeling for 3D printing, the importance of good mesh topology and so on. If you have
    1 point
  38. It's great to talk to someone who knows networks for a change. 1) ssh credential is root/ultimaker - you can configure the network using conman linux utility (it's not a raspberry pi but actually an Olimex board). The printer has a version of linux called "debian jessie" I believe. you can use apt-get to install more software utilities as needed. You can easily "brick" the machine if you mess up the network with conman (because you lose ssh access) so go slowly. To unbrick you will need a micro-sd card and beg for instructions from your reseller and can waste many hours the fir
    1 point
  39. Yes. This is the problem. They way Marlin works is a hack and it's also very elegant at the same time. I've been though the path planning code dozens of times to understand all the intricacies. The people/person who wrote the path planner is really smart and did a reasonable job. But he/she optimized the code for line segments. Not arcs. The handling of arcs is a hack/compromise. In summary: G02 G03 commands are going to give you worse quality than G0/G1 Marlin has a buffer of moves (one move per G1 command but many moves per G2 command). That buffer only holds
    1 point
  40. Hier noch ein paar Bilder
    1 point
  41. FYI it's harder to get a copy of cura 15.X these days so I'm hosting it here (sorry, I only have the windows version): Cura 15.04.06 for windows It doesn't have nearly as many features as the latest cura and doesn't support UM3 or newer printers and it supports dual color printers but not second-extruder-support. But it works very well for 90% of printers out there and in some cases produces better prints (not sure why). I usually use the latest Cura but occasionally still use this old version when printing on my um2go printers.
    1 point
  42. On the 19th October while you were writing this I was installing my new S5 Pro bundle. I'm sitting here waiting a response from my reseller for a raft of issues that means three prints in I'm stopped and the machine just doesn't work. Seems to hang up at the end of the print and never completes the 'finishing' phase. No error messages. Only way to get it to do anything is switch it off and back on again. This is the sequence of actions since installing the machine: New machine purchased and installed 19/10/2020 Firmware updated via wifi to 5.8.2. Trial print
    1 point
  43. In upper right of cura, select "Marketplace". Make sure "plugins" is selected and look under "E" for "Export". Install this plugin: "Export HTML Cura Settings". Restart cura. Now there is a new feature in the "file" menu?
    1 point
  44. I have personally made some little anti-vibration feet for my S5 now because its on a wood desk so hopefully it will take out some the vibration and sound when printer is in use, more so because i have 2 s5 side by side printing. Best to use a TPU filament with around 50% infill, have added the stl files below for both right and left hand feet. It also gives about 6mm of extra height under the printer what gives better air flow for the fan under it. Or like i do i store the 2nd glass build plate under the printer. Body1.stl Body2.stl
    1 point
  45. Found out how this can be done! I made a quick video to show the process: Found the solution in this topic.
    1 point
  46. Yep defo go with a Polybox, it’s what I use on mine.
    1 point
  47. Did you create this model? Is it from sketchup? Sketchup specifies which sides of every surface is the "outside" or "inside" by the color. White goes outside. Gray goes inside. Most people using sketchup ignore this but it confuses cura and ends up filling interrior spaces like this. More info here: https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ You show the model in 2 views (layer and solid), please check the model in the 3rd way: xray view. If you see any red in xray view then that's the problem right there - it means you have extra walls or missing walls (
    1 point
  48. Thanks, I'm attaching few pics. You will find some answers to your question. basically, - I created a internal shell ( few parts that have been glue, screwed). This shell replaces the initial aesthetic cover of the machine. - I have slightly reworked the chassis of the machine, mainly to accommodate the button on the side. - Built up a support (wood) to strongly maintain the whole in place for the molding process - assembled the mold, mainly using MDF wood (straight). The frontal face has been printed to give the rounded shape. Tape has been used to coat the vari
    1 point
  49. Hi guys, I'm new to the community. I'm enjoying my ultimaker 2+ since couple of year now. This machine is super great and I never stop experiencing to get the most of it. Not easy to follow up though with all the updates, new material and stuff. But love this. I' using mostly my ultimaker to build mold therefore I'm not that into the detail of the best finishing of my prints. I use mostly the most rapid execution possible. here an example of my recent creation. It's a fully functional coffee machine based on Nespresso Essenza mini. ( I Love coffee) I have created a
    1 point
  50. If you do a M500 after the change of current (afaik) it should remain saved on the memory. So M907 E1000 M500 Remember that each line must have a 'return' key after, or the command won't be executed. If you have doubts about if the settings are saved. Use Printrun/Pronterface and connect by usb to the printer. As soon you connect you have a list of 'echo' of all the settings saved on the firmware Printrun is a free soft for mac/win http://www.pronterface.com/
    1 point
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