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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/24/2020 in all areas

  1. When things are mission critical it's good to have tools you can count on, the knowledge to use them correctly, and the inner motivation to do your best. I would like to thank everyone here for helping me to understand at least a little bit about 3d printing and Cura. Zits were absolutely not acceptable and there aren't any. Sliced with 4.8beta. When I go to a costume party as James Bond, I go as James Bond. I'll have that shaken. Not stirred. Any comments regarding the fact that the glass looks more like a c
    6 points
  2. Yes, that was a bad experience. As Longtoke points out, it wasn't the fault of Cura. When you push the "Home" button, Cura sends the command "G28" to the printer and that is all it does. That G28 is interpreted by the firmware in the printer as "home all axis" and the printer starts the axis motors and moves the print head to the "0" endstops of the X, the Y, and the Z axis. The speed that the motors run at is also set within the firmware and Cura cannot effect the homing speed. It is then each endstop switch's job to inform the firmware "OK you can stop the motor now". When e
    4 points
  3. While I get you're upset at your printer being damaged, you've incorrectly and unfairly attributed it to Cura... Firstly, the Tronxy you mention is a DIY kit printer, that takes some experience to correctly assemble, while having several design flaws that leave the door open to all sorts of issues. To quote one of the reviews I've just endured "My testing, however, was a long and frustrating experience due to a range of poor design decisions on this printer." And another quote "I think with a total overhaul by an experienced owner, this thing could really s
    4 points
  4. Hi all, We've released a small update for the Ultimaker 3. You can upgrade to 5.2.16 as of today. This gives the Ultimaker 3 some more functionality within the Digital Factory. Release notes: · Digital Factory integration. Print jobs sent via cloud show print job preview images in the Digital Factory. Printer discovery including connection, cancelling, and removal have been made more robust · Digital Factory functionality. The Ultimaker 3 will be able to start, stop, pause, and resume print jobs remotely · Updated UI elements
    3 points
  5. A new version of the plugin is available from the Marketplace, with full support for Cura 4.0-4.8. The sidebar can be collapsed to a summary for all of them.
    2 points
  6. More big cosplay prop swords, this ones from Final Fantasy XIV for a friend.
    2 points
  7. That is a really bad model. In addition to not being watertight, it has numerous surfaces that don't fit right. I tried to do something with it in MeshMixer but I don't know that software very well although I made some progress. The way your model is now it will not slice and won't print.
    2 points
  8. Oui, c'est ça : le contrôle se fait sur CURA MAIS en fonction de la valeur de référence sur la machine (consigne). J'expliquerais plutôt les choses de la manières suivante afin que ce soit plus clair : Si tu as un profil matériau sur ton UM2 dont la valeur pour les ventilos est fixée à 100 % comme pour du PLA de base il va se passer la chose suivante : si dans CURA tu définis la valeur pour les ventilos à 90 %, tu auras sur ton UM2 90% de 100% donc 90%. Par contre, si la valeur côté UM2 est fixée à 50 %, si tu mets 50 % côté CURA, tu auras effectivement 25 % sur la machine : 50 % de 5
    2 points
  9. Yeah sure, this is one of the first large prints I did. It's a battery enclosure for my e-bike, it fits 39 18650 lithium-ion cells arranged in a 13S3P configuration. I had some trouble with my T10 (10mm) leadscrews wobbling which lead to the z wobble artifacts you might be able to see in the pictures. I've since upgraded to 12mm ballscrews and they have eliminated that problem.
    2 points
  10. The stream URL is the same for UM3, S3, S5, so it is working.
    2 points
  11. Printed a new air intake for my car. Has a bracket that screw onto the engine to secure it. Printed on the Ultimaker S5 in PA-CF and painted so it doesn't absorb oils and dirt.
    2 points
  12. It is also a good project to use the leftovers of the spools and you get something useful which looks nice. I will print it too, my wife will surely be happy about it. Weather here is Austria is also not so nice, it gets dark at 5pm and it is cold and rainy.
    1 point
  13. Very nice idea and looks really great and colorful! I like it 🙂
    1 point
  14. Prints in a print! A little color to brighten up some gray, rainy fall days here. Flower model by 4frika: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1440472 I found the bowl on ScanTheWorld; I really want to take some more pictures of it from the side. The Matte fiber filament looks good, though I had to sink the model into the bed a few mm since it wasn't flat. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-a-stemmed-bowl-54121
    1 point
  15. We are happy to share Ultimaker 4.8 Beta with you. It marks a new step in the evolution of Ultimaker and perhaps the world’s most used slicer. You can help to make it even better for yourself and all its users by taking part in this Beta and report your findings back with us. So, what new features can we share with you today? Arrange models has been improved. Until now, the arrange models feature didn’t always utilise the available bed space to its fullest, which made a lot of users arranging their models by themselves. An improved arrange models feature should provide you
    1 point
  16. Smithy was faster.... again... 🙂 - but anyway: Somehow i doubt that it is supposed to look like this....? So probably.... nope. A solid, manifold, "watertight" object is crucial for 3D printing. This one is a mess of 43 separate shells with either unconnected or intersecting faces. Partly with wrong normals and so on. You should consider to use a CAD program for modeling of such things... If you want to repair it manually, there are several tutorials, something like this: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-mani
    1 point
  17. A have not the slightest clue how the CuraEngine works, but... a search for "infill_sparse_density" in CuraEngine results in zero hits. It's obviously not used at all. It seems like "infill_line_distance" is a better bet... 🤷‍♂️
    1 point
  18. bonsoir, je ne sais pas si cela peut aider mais par hasard j'ai découvert que le PLA change de couleur suivant la température à la quel il est chauffer. j'ai fait une pièce qui étais bien réussi et je ne sais pour quel raison j'ai refait cette pièce à une température différente et là j'ai étais surpris par la différence de couleur. je chauffe mon PLA à 200° (PLA blanc) jamais de problème, avec le PLA gris argent couleur terne à 200°. A 210° le PLA a exactement la même couleur que celui sur la bobine un beau gris argent brillant. je pense que la couleur de chauffe peu
    1 point
  19. Thank you for your help! In the end, I thought I should just try it for myself. Please see the pictures below. The surface facing the raft is perfect. Matte finish, smooth, with the exception of some breakaway in pores that I have elected not to dig out. The part is perfectly flat. Maybe not an efficient use of the material, but the cleanest raft I have ever implemented. First pic is still on the print bed, second is with only one action complete, peeling off the raft and no post process. John
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. Hi y'all, I thought some people here might be interested in my latest 3D printer build. Several years a go I built a delta 3D printer that didn't work so well, had lots of slop and wasn't very rigid and had poor print quality. I was determined this time to make a much better printer and I think I did a pretty decent job on it. I made a short YouTube video showing a bit of the build: https://youtu.be/8EfwWAECTHE If you're interested in a more deep dive on how I built it you can find a detailed write-up on my blog: https://www.joshendyblog.net/big-3d-printer-b
    1 point
  22. That is not entirely correct I think. It mostly depends on if you buy an Ultimaker S5 R1 or R2, which was released early this year. The rational is that we wanted to compensate our users who bought an Ultimaker S5 with the promise of the aluminum bed. Obviously, as soon as it became painfully clear we weren't going to be able to realise that we removed it from all marketing assets. So everyone has an accurate understanding of what it is they are buying. When we Ultimaker S5 R2 was released, some time passed where it was stripped from all marketing assets so we felt the compensation was no long
    1 point
  23. Our first S5 (July 2019) came with one glass plate and a little card with a link to sign up for an Aluminum plate which I did and never got a response, I tried to contact Ultimaker directly and also received no answer. The reseller said I'm not eligible for a second glass plate even though I understand I should be. Our second S5 (Feb 2020) came with 2 glass plates in the box.
    1 point
  24. I am glad to hear that! Thanks for the feedback
    1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. Hard to tell from just the screenshots. Can you save a project? File -> Save as...
    1 point
  27. This happens (in all versions of Cura) because the bottom is not 100% flat. You can either fix the model, or move it down a fraction (into the buildplate): use the move tool and set the Z to -0.1.
    1 point
  28. when you unscrew the bottom of your printer there is another one of those big connectors, it's easy enough to find and only logically plugs in in that one place. But even if you measure them and the connections are all OK, there might only be a break when flexing the cable. You could clean the contacts (for instance with alcohol on a cotton swab) re-insert and see if that helps.
    1 point
  29. The i2c head communication error really does point to the cable, since that is only reported if there is no connection to a chip that is on the PCB in the printhead, regardless of temperature errors, etc it could of-course be a combination of things, but that seems less likely.
    1 point
  30. I posted a reply to someone asking about longer-term reliability here. SandervG was kind enough to provide some thoughts on my issues and suggested a new thread if I had further comments or concerns. This is that thread. From my prior reply, I experienced a flood of the print head back in early-March of 2020. The print head was shipped to Ultimaker and they "bent it back into shape" per the Local Tech. I've had issues since that time, but the most recent issues have been communication error with the print cores (ER34), flow sensor issue (ER65), and I2C communication error (ER35). B
    1 point
  31. @Bundle Thank you for your feedback. You explained to me that the situation you reported was for Ultimaker PLA, aborted while printing, based on the usual park position it was clearly higher up in the Bowden tube and the delay in extrusion for the following print was excessive (missed the skirt and started extruding already in the part section). It is indeed not expected that PLA creates a long tip after a print is aborted. It is one of the materials that creates the better deprime tips actually. Such delayed extrusion is not expected under normal circumstances. Sounds
    1 point
  32. Hi Ralph, I'm still a relatively new member on this hobby and everyday I've learnt something new. I got my first printer in January and I couldn't print or solder two wires together, thanks to the hobby I can do both. My printer still makes spaghetti every now and then, but thanks to the community I can always find the cause and rectify it.
    1 point
  33. Alors coupleur ... sérieux: vaut mieux savoir ce que c'est parce que c'est à l'origine de pas mal de cacas... Petite pièce en téflon qui isole le bowden de la partie chaude, à l'intérieur de la tête.. si tu ne sais pas ce que c'est, c'est que tu ne l'as jamais changé, et donc qu'il est grillé et qu'il étrangle ton filament... D'ailleurs normalement tu en avais un en spare part dans ton imprimante
    1 point
  34. Whoops, you are quite right. I have replaced the link the the development snapshot above.
    1 point
  35. I think you forgot to update the maximum_cura_version in plugin.json to work with Cura 4.8 beta. After changing 4.7 to 4.8 the plugin is working, but I have to test it deeply.
    1 point
  36. Hello Community Moderators. Please disregard my first posting. I find the whole topic of 3d printing new to me and very frustrating. The terminology is new to me and the programs, Cura included, are not self-evident to me. I lost the rag. I should not have, and certainly not expressed it in my very first posting - or any posting for that matter. Sorry. Ralph
    1 point
  37. With the availability of the Cura 4.8 beta, it is time for a new version of SidebarGUI. This version adds the possibility to close/hide the sidebar, and fixes some minor bugs. When hidden, the sidebar collapses into a neat summary of the print settings and extruder configuration. Could you all please help me test this development snapshot with Cura 4.8 beta? It should also work on older versions of Cura, down to Cura 4.4. The official release in the Marketplace will be compatible with Cura 4.0 and newer. Download the file and drop it onto the Cura buildplate as if you
    1 point
  38. Downloaded 5.8.2 and all appears ok. One question though-on aborting a print, the machine did a hot pull and then went through the cold pull as part of the abort/finish routine. This leaves the filament too far back in the Bowden tube with a long “tail” from the hot pull making me concerned about fully unloading the filament. I have had this occur twice. In one instance, I opted to retry the print but the core had lost its prime due to the extra retraction. Is this a new bug or have i just not noticed it before? Thanks
    1 point
  39. I now have 4 versions installed and I do have a nit-picking complaint... When I play around and different versions are running, they all have the same blue icon with a white "C" on the taskbar in Windows. If the C was a different color (or if the background was a different color) for each version I would be able to tell which is which at a glance. I understand that blue & white might be the "Team Colors" of the Cura bowling team and as such are sacred. It would be nice to have a little differentiation though.
    1 point
  40. I just printed the adapter and it fits and works great! Many thanks for this little helpful tool 👍
    1 point
  41. From what I understand of this issue, it's only manifesting on 8-bit boards, predominantly on ( but not limited to ) Creality brand printers like the original Ender-3. If someone out there has a stock Ender-3 and could specifically test this fix ( use the benchy boat to test ), you would be doing a huge favor for your fellow Creality users and the Cura dev's. I would do so on my own Ender-3 but I'm using an skr 32-bit board and my other Creality printer has Creality's 32-bit silent mainboard on it, both printers do not have this issue, yet a friends Ender-3 is seeing i
    1 point
  42. You see, Greg. It's even harder for me to communicate with you and perhaps, from time to time my words are harder than I wanted. But we can also do it in German. But also understand that I'm really not satisfied. With version 5.8.0 there was the possibility that the filaments are no longer pulled back that far. That was very good. At the same time, however, a basic function no longer worked. Namely the unloading of filaments. So how I should change the print core or replace a filament if I've wanted to insert a different color? Waiting for 2h every time? Why was this not foun
    1 point
  43. Hi there Roli? While it's clear that you are frustrated, I'm not sure if this tone of voice really helps in any way. I don't think the support people are going to be more willing to help you if you shame them or call them hobbyist. Frankly one could ask himself how professional it is to use those qualifications here in a professional public forum. We are all here to help out community and everybody is doing their best I think. We do indeed test our firmware (for at least 2 whole weeks) before we ship it. We test about 30 different abort flows alone and 200+ flows in total *every* single rele
    1 point
  44. Could you also add the files that are called something like: ultimakersystem-ccbdd300129b.3.7.7.20201017.boot-0.log.gz? Those are the main log files. (the forum might complain about uploading them if so you can unzip them with tools like z7)
    1 point
  45. Making small quick prints during printer tweaking. Lens hood for Sony 5018/1855 lenses and compatible. Download: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-138468 https://grabcad.com/library/lens-hood-for-sony-5018-oss-short-25-mm-1
    1 point
  46. We belong to the Tin Can Tourist club. Members have old camping trailers or motorhomes that they've reconditioned. Ours is a 1972 Shasta Compact. For our next rally I'm bringing some coaster holders (and coasters) to pawn off on unsuspecting folk. The two on the left are the production models.
    1 point
  47. Making the most out of the S5 build size. Cloud buster sword from Final Fantasy 7 remake that I printed for a friend.
    1 point
  48. I was running the first UM Nylon through my S5 + Material Station last night. When I came in this morning, the print was finished, but I had an ER63 message on the display. The Nylon had rewound, but was completely out of the Material Station feed tube (first time this has ever happened), like it rewound it too far. After looking online, I followed the directions to power off the S5 and Material Station. When I powered it back on, the Material Station kept trying to unload the material, then I would get an ER61. This happened several times before I finally completely disconnected the Mate
    1 point
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