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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/24/2020 in all areas

  1. When things are mission critical it's good to have tools you can count on, the knowledge to use them correctly, and the inner motivation to do your best. I would like to thank everyone here for helping me to understand at least a little bit about 3d printing and Cura. Zits were absolutely not acceptable and there aren't any. Sliced with 4.8beta. When I go to a costume party as James Bond, I go as James Bond. I'll have that shaken. Not stirred. Any comments regarding the fact that the glass looks more like a c
    6 points
  2. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    4 points
  3. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    4 points
  4. Introduction Marco Polo, Christopher Columbus, Vasco da Gama, Amerigo Vespucci, James Cook. What do they all have in common, and what could they possibly be doing in a post related to 3D Printing and Generative Design? The obvious answer to what they have in common is that they were all explorers, many of them from an era known as The Age of Discovery. The reason they relate to this post is that Generative Design has been created for “design explorers” and it provides a method for navigating a route through to the discovery of the kind of design outcomes the like of whi
    4 points
  5. After a successful BETA period we are ready to launch Ultimaker Cura 4.8. With support for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect that we launched today. Download it right now to experience several new features that allow you to work faster than ever. Check this video for a quick run down of Ultimaker Cura 4.8: New features Arrange models feature improvement. An improved arrange models feature allows you to quickly organize all your CAD models on your build plate. Previously the automated orientation of multiple parts did not always utilize the full buil
    4 points
  6. Hi all, We've released a small update for the Ultimaker 3. You can upgrade to 5.2.16 as of today. This gives the Ultimaker 3 some more functionality within the Digital Factory. Release notes: · Digital Factory integration. Print jobs sent via cloud show print job preview images in the Digital Factory. Printer discovery including connection, cancelling, and removal have been made more robust · Digital Factory functionality. The Ultimaker 3 will be able to start, stop, pause, and resume print jobs remotely · Updated UI elements
    4 points
  7. A new version of the plugin is available from the Marketplace, with full support for Cura 4.0-4.8. The sidebar can be collapsed to a summary for all of them.
    4 points
  8. Yes, that was a bad experience. As Longtoke points out, it wasn't the fault of Cura. When you push the "Home" button, Cura sends the command "G28" to the printer and that is all it does. That G28 is interpreted by the firmware in the printer as "home all axis" and the printer starts the axis motors and moves the print head to the "0" endstops of the X, the Y, and the Z axis. The speed that the motors run at is also set within the firmware and Cura cannot effect the homing speed. It is then each endstop switch's job to inform the firmware "OK you can stop the motor now". When e
    4 points
  9. While I get you're upset at your printer being damaged, you've incorrectly and unfairly attributed it to Cura... Firstly, the Tronxy you mention is a DIY kit printer, that takes some experience to correctly assemble, while having several design flaws that leave the door open to all sorts of issues. To quote one of the reviews I've just endured "My testing, however, was a long and frustrating experience due to a range of poor design decisions on this printer." And another quote "I think with a total overhaul by an experienced owner, this thing could really s
    4 points
  10. Mmmmm, weird. This is either a partial clog that incidentally happened at the same time you've switch to 4.8, or an error when importing the profile. Check the filament size, because it looks like you have 2.85 instead of 1.75 in the machine settings. If you still have 4.7 installed try to print something small sliced with 4.7, the typical x,y,z cube for instance. If it prints ok, it's the filament size in 4.8. If it prints all wrong, clog Or who knows
    3 points
  11. As the owner of two UM2+, I find it admirable that Ultimaker is improving their older models instead of just leaving them in the dust, lol. Any chance of making a retrofit kit to make older UM2's compatible with the UM Digital Workflow?
    3 points
  12. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    2 points
  13. I'm confused as to why the 2+ is replaced by the 2+ Connect without an upgrade option for current owners. If this is true, then I'm out. I'll keep using my Ultimaker 2+ until it dies, but I'm not buying anymore Ultimaker products. I bought Ultimaker as upgradability was in the sprit of their products. Make it upgradable and let me keep this printer current or I can jump to a manufacturer who does.
    2 points
  14. Das sind die Default werde aus der Firmware (eine etwas ältere da ich die zu Hand hatte) Für UM2 also 25Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.0 #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.5 #define DEFAULT_Kd 100.0 Für UM2+ also 35Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.03 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.50 #define DEFAULT_Kd 70.0 Da ich schon seit einiger zeit auf Duet Board umgerüstet habe, und da scheinbar das "Auto Tune" ordentliche Werte geliefert hatte (ich weis es gar nicht mehr genau, aber wo her soll ich diese Werte her haben) Habe ich folgende Werte eingestellt:
    2 points
  15. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
    2 points
  16. bonsoir, je ne sais pas si cela peut aider mais par hasard j'ai découvert que le PLA change de couleur suivant la température à la quel il est chauffer. j'ai fait une pièce qui étais bien réussi et je ne sais pour quel raison j'ai refait cette pièce à une température différente et là j'ai étais surpris par la différence de couleur. je chauffe mon PLA à 200° (PLA blanc) jamais de problème, avec le PLA gris argent couleur terne à 200°. A 210° le PLA a exactement la même couleur que celui sur la bobine un beau gris argent brillant. je pense que la couleur de chauffe peu
    2 points
  17. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    2 points
  18. I know what you mean and the reason is, that the line width is very small, therefore it is not printed by default. But there are several options, not sure which one is responsible for that, but try: Filter Out Tiny Gaps -> unchecked Compensate Wall Overlaps And this could also help, when you print the outer wall before inner wall: Outer before Inner Walls Can you upload your STL or project file here, then we can also check it.
    2 points
  19. First I should warn you that there are something like 100 machine settings that aren't shown in these dialogs unfortunately. You can include CAD files of your printer to make it prettier in the GUI for example. But it should be enough to get good prints for most printers. Also document what you did well because sometimes when you upgrade Cura (rarely) you get messed up profiles and the solution is to blow away all user files (like printer settings). Next, "creatware" is a fork of an older version of Cura. Cura version 15.X I think (15 refers to 2015). Cura 2.X came out that ye
    2 points
  20. All related files can be downloaded from Thingiverse now with following URL. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4655216/files
    2 points
  21. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    2 points
  22. Sorry to hear so. It made sense to enable an option to upgrade an UM2 to an UM2+, or an UMO to an UMO+ because 'only' a few essential components were renewed. But the idea of upgrading an UM2+ to an UM2C was really pushing the boundaries of a reasonable product. And honestly, we felt it wasn't. It would create too many complexities, and it could never be a 'plug & play-upgrade'. If you rather have a DIY printer, there are plenty of options out there. The philosophy of upgrading our products is still very much alive though. Take a look at the firmware, which is updated frequent
    2 points
  23. Ahlala ! CURA n'arrive pas à "trancher" le magnifique objet que vous avez mis tant de temps à modéliser avec Sketchup : WTF ? CURA c'est de la m%@&e ! Le problème vient plus surement de Sketchup que de CURA, explications : Retour aux sources. Avant de parler de Sketchup et de CURA on va parler STL. Les fichiers STL décrivent des objets par leurs surfaces externes. Cette surface doit nécessairement être fermée et définie par une série de triangles. cf. : https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier_de_stéréolithographie Prenons pour exemple un des objets les plus simples que vous aurez
    2 points
  24. The yellow buttons are just the three extruders. That should be fine. The tools on the left side are all plugins. First step is: click on "Marketplace" (upper right corner) and check if the "Scale Tool"-plugin is installed and activated (!).
    2 points
  25. This is the wrong replacement pattern. Use this and Cura will not have to prepend its own preheat sequence for your extruder: M109 S{material_print_temperature} Similarly, include this to stop Cura from having to preheat the bed for you: M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
    2 points
  26. And there is also a different Z stage. All things considered, where it made sense to enable an upgrade from UM2 to an UM2+, upgrading to an UM2+C doesn't make sense. It would have been really cool though, but unfortunately not possible. As mentioned, even the frame would need to be modified.
    2 points
  27. Maybe service is just expensive and that is why chinese printers are so cheap. Just something to consider 😉 Anyhow, I also need my house to be painted. Why haven't you done so already!? I don't want to pay an actual painter to do it, because it's really expensive! All joking aside; You can just post issues on github. We will have a look at it. We can't guarantee that we will be able to fix it, because we always get more issues than we can handle. In some cases we simply can't reproduce the issue, which also makes it really hard for us to fix it (since we then don't even know where to sta
    2 points
  28. Thank you for sharing your message and wild assumptions. If you want to get in touch with us you can do so via our community, Github or our ticket support system. If you decide to go for any of these routes, I would like to ask you to pay attention to your tone of voice when you're asking for help from people who have no obligation to help you. We are willing to help though, all users of Cura, regardless if you have an Ultimaker or not. Asking nicely helps. We're all just people.
    2 points
  29. I finally converted my printer to DXU, but I am not using the original DXU print head, instead, I make use of the original head with modification, so that I can keep using the metal parts. I found this modification design from Chat room, however, the author only released the STL files and some them seems not work well. Therefore, I based on the original head dimension and reference to the STL file, I redraw all of them with Solidwork, modified some key area, attached the photos of my build as well as the parts photo exported from Solidwork. This head now used for over 100 hours
    2 points
  30. You'll be happy to hear then that an upcoming firmware release will allow you to enable a firewall, blocking all incoming traffic from the local network. This is full, 100%, network security, whereas passwords are definitely not. By enabling this firewall, users are forced to print either via USB (physical security can prevent access to this if needed), or by using the Digital Factory, which has full user management and access management in place (especially if you're a company on an Ultimaker Essentials subscription). So we take security very seriously and are doing continuous imp
    2 points
  31. It's a known issue that Cura is super slow to start if the X drive is used (if i recall correctly). Since that doesn't happen often it never got priority to get fixed.
    2 points
  32. More big cosplay prop swords, this ones from Final Fantasy XIV for a friend.
    2 points
  33. That is a really bad model. In addition to not being watertight, it has numerous surfaces that don't fit right. I tried to do something with it in MeshMixer but I don't know that software very well although I made some progress. The way your model is now it will not slice and won't print.
    2 points
  34. Oui, c'est ça : le contrôle se fait sur CURA MAIS en fonction de la valeur de référence sur la machine (consigne). J'expliquerais plutôt les choses de la manières suivante afin que ce soit plus clair : Si tu as un profil matériau sur ton UM2 dont la valeur pour les ventilos est fixée à 100 % comme pour du PLA de base il va se passer la chose suivante : si dans CURA tu définis la valeur pour les ventilos à 90 %, tu auras sur ton UM2 90% de 100% donc 90%. Par contre, si la valeur côté UM2 est fixée à 50 %, si tu mets 50 % côté CURA, tu auras effectivement 25 % sur la machine : 50 % de 5
    2 points
  35. Yeah sure, this is one of the first large prints I did. It's a battery enclosure for my e-bike, it fits 39 18650 lithium-ion cells arranged in a 13S3P configuration. I had some trouble with my T10 (10mm) leadscrews wobbling which lead to the z wobble artifacts you might be able to see in the pictures. I've since upgraded to 12mm ballscrews and they have eliminated that problem.
    2 points
  36. The stream URL is the same for UM3, S3, S5, so it is working.
    2 points
  37. Printed a new air intake for my car. Has a bracket that screw onto the engine to secure it. Printed on the Ultimaker S5 in PA-CF and painted so it doesn't absorb oils and dirt.
    2 points
  38. Das Teilen ist nicht nötig. Man kann ein Modifier Mesh definieren, dieses so skalieren und positionieren, dass es das fragliche Volumen überlappt und dann den anderen Extruder diesem Volumen zuteilen.
    1 point
  39. It seems that the RawMouse plugin has no permissions to open the USB device: ERROR - [RawMouse] RawMouse.RawMouse._run_hid [243]: Exception while reading HID events: open failed
    1 point
  40. Almost surely because you need to add the 4.7k pullup resistor. I think using the thermistor is a great solution. The pt100 isn't more accurate but it can handle higher temps. Thermistors get damaged at high temps (they are all different but yours should be fine up to 230C probably even 250C) and once they get overheated they start reading the wrong temp. As long as you stick to PLA you'll be fine.
    1 point
  41. I'm pretty sure you are right about the positive/negative numbers but again - it won't matter unless you print multiple parts in "one at a time" mode. And the nozzle distance - I have no idea why one would be 72 - sorry. 21 sounds like a more common nozzle distance to me. Dual printing is complicated. Most printers use T0 to mean switch to the first extruder and T1 for the second and use E for both extruders. Some printers use E0 for the first and E1 for the second and don't even mention a T command. So some printers if you want to heat the second nozzle you need two commands
    1 point
  42. Since my questions is near the same I will not start a new thread but expand on this one. I just got the Creality Ender-6 and it also is not listed. I tried to create my own "Ender-6" from the Ender-5, but being new to this it did not go well. Thanks in advance.
    1 point
  43. What is Cura telling you when you open the stl file? This looks like you have a problem with your model. Anyway, I like to add a thought I had as this happens in 95% of user requests for help here: It is good practice to attach a project file so that one who want to help can have a close look to your model and your slicer setup. Without this it is often not possible to give you an good answer, as most of people havn't a magic crystal ball. I too still try to find one. 🙂
    1 point
  44. Ich habe ein Bahnbetriebswerk im Massstab 1:87 konstruiert und mit meinem Ultimaker 2+ gedruckt. Nachstehend nur ein paar Bilder. Mehr, siehe hier:https://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=180&t=171433
    1 point
  45. Hallo Soweit ich weis hat der UM3 und UM2 die gleichen Treiber Chips auf den Control Board Motoren tauschen bringt da meiner Meinung nichts, sondern die Treiber Chips auf den Board (die Ansteuerung). Ich habe meinen UM2 auf den Duet Board umgerüstet, dieses besitzt neuere aktuellere Treiber Chips und man hat da schon ein Geräusch unterschied gehört, mit den gleichen Motoren. Aber wegen den Vorteil von der Lautstärke habe ich bestimmt nicht umgerüstet. Und bei den UM3 fällt das auch flach weil da ja noch ein Linux Board (glaube ich) mit werkelt.
    1 point
  46. @Jls667 I have the fan available here. It's in stock and available to ship today. In regards to how the fan relates to the active leveling...the active leveling works on a capacitive sensor. If your fan cable is pinched or damaged, it can create electromagnetic interference while the fan is running, and that interference can disrupt your active leveling readings and cause active leveling to fail. I've got a video here on how to install it:
    1 point
  47. Hi Steve, It sounds like your feeder gear is slipping on the filament. Try to increase temp to 240 and reduce speed when running the filament through to see if it brings it back to 100mm, to isolate the problem. If that's the case, it probably means the hotend has too much resistance for the feeder, not melting the filament quick enough. Possible solution is upgrading the heater cartriage to higher power like 40W. What's your feeder for the 2nd nozzle? Does it have the same problem?
    1 point
  48. Thank you for your time and patience. Sometimes it hangs at that point. If it is obvious it got stuck you can restart (but don't get too impatient). Let us know how it goes when you have tried again tomorrow!
    1 point
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