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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/06/2021 in all areas

  1. The counter crossed 2 million cumulative downloads for all my plugins. Looking at the post date above, that means a million downloads in just under 11 months. That's sort of amazing.
    6 points
  2. Received my printer two weeks ago, everything in the package (touchscreen, heatbed). Assembled it, did the leveling stuff and printed the rocket. One thing I noticed was the power plug. It’s not very tight and depending on the rotation the printer turns off, but I got used to this. As everybody said it is quite slow but the print of the rocket was good at all. I updated the software described by @foo bar. I thought a good idea is to print the wide known calibration cube (Thingiverse) to check the dimensions. Very soon i noticed a big layer shift. I thightened the belts to fix it, the
    2 points
  3. Yes, I'm using Windows.I just tested it and it can be uploaded normally. thanks
    2 points
  4. @prafersno you may not be aware but @ahoeben is one of the main contributors to Cura. I don't know that he "knows it all" but he probably knows 99.99% of it. I listen when he speaks, and so I learn. Reading back through this thread, I think his responses were concise and to the point and explained why there was no "top fuzzy". As for myself, I have been described as having a "wide skillset". I suppose that is the same as "Jack of all Trades and Master of None", but I'm good with that. I do appreciate a good workaround and so kudos to you for finding a workable workaround that
    2 points
  5. Every print core is tested by printing a particular calibration print designed to test the core itself. They can detect things like the sensor being inaccurate, heater not working, other electronic errors, clogged or partially clogged nozzle, leaks, and probably more. If there were no indications that the core was used that wold be a red flag.
    2 points
  6. Not only "just" plugins, they are essential for my daily Cura usage! Many thanks for your work!
    2 points
  7. Well you've just had 4 more downloaded, keep up the good work. 👏
    2 points
  8. Thanks for making the world a better place!
    2 points
  9. You may be interested in this thread: To make your life easier, see if you can use ```the cryptography module instead of pynacl.
    2 points
  10. You can find some information on our wiki: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki The code that actually handles the per object settings is located here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/tree/master/plugins/PerObjectSettingsTool
    2 points
  11. I had Cura and MS 3DBuilder check it @Smithy and it appears to be OK. As Smithy says, you have to be careful with models from Sketchup. You didn't mention your printer. Sometimes the SD cards can get corrupted and the end of a gcode file gets copied to the corrupt area. The file will be partially printed. You can open the file that is on the SD card using a text editor. Scroll down to the end and you should see the settings section. If you don't see that then the file is likely bad on the SD card. You can try re-formatting the card. It's always scary to print som
    2 points
  12. A knife slice is very clean. Is there a way to smooth out the scratches from sandpaper? Even a fine grit will leave tool marks. I've heard of acetone smoothing for ABS. Is there something for PLA? Story time. I was working on a failure in some large plastic chemical tanks. The 35mm thick walls of the tanks had been edge welded and one of the things that was being looked at was weld penetration. After slicing the pieces through the weld, it was necessary to polish the welds to check penetration. They couldn't be buffed as no heat could be tolerated. After some thought I
    1 point
  13. I post a recommended profile for Selpic Star A.11.curaprofileSettingManual.pdf Thanks for Selpic's support.
    1 point
  14. Ah yes wow perfect, the 'make overhangs printable' was the key problem, thanks very much to both of you for the help!
    1 point
  15. You need to change your visibility settings to advanced. And then support structure is visible. Or you could search in the search bar for support structure.
    1 point
  16. We’re happy to announce that firmware 6.4 is released today for our Ultimaker S-line 3D printers. With it comes increased reliability and compatibility with our newest Ultimaker material; PETG. Release notes: Increased reliability – Improved deprime parameters will reduce the chances of getting certain errors due to material movement for the S-line Pro Bundle, known as ER34, ER35 and ER80. PETG compatibility – This firmware contains the print profile and allows printing with our newest go-to material; PETG. Reboot button on fatal errors – It is now possible to
    1 point
  17. Hello, j'ai eu le même type de message d'erreur : "la sonde de décalage de la buse a rencontré un problème, veuillez vérifier les buses et réessayer." Après avoir écumé le web à la recherche d'une solution, calibrer tout à la main, j'ai finalement trouvé en trifouillant dans tous le paramètres. Après avoir recalibré le "lift switch", elle a ENFIN redémarré correctement. Je joints les tutos qui m'ont aidé : https://support.makershop.fr/hc/fr/articles/360015610593-Calibration-du-Lift-Switch https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n0hAeBiAVfA&ab_c
    1 point
  18. I vaguely remembered Lulzbot Cura has a setting to apply "fuzzy" movements in the Z direction, but I might be wrong. That is why I said Ultimaker Cura does has no setting to jitter the z axis, and asked if the user had been using Lulzbot Cura before. Incidentally Lulzbot Cura is stuck at version 3.6.something, so "going back to 3.6" may have some merit after all. But I know less about Lulzbit Cura than I know about Ultimaker Cura. Slightly rotating the model is a creative way to get a fuzzy pattern on top of some models, but you will have to experiment a bit to get a result that lo
    1 point
  19. The "Compact Prepare Sidebar" plugin is the spiritual predecessor of the "Sidebar GUI" plugin, and only compatible with Cura 3.5/3.6:
    1 point
  20. I am quite proud to announce that sometime this morning, someone was the 1,000,000th to download one of my plugins from the Marketplace! To celebrate, all my Cura plugins will be available today for the very special price of FREE! (oh, wait, they always are 😉). As always, some exciting updates are coming up.
    1 point
  21. It's odd that it was OK without the holes. When you made the holes it only made circles in the top and bottom leaving the inside hollow. without the holes it sliced as you would expect. The attached file has been repaired. There is one 8mm hole on the centerline and four 8mm holes on a 25mm bolt hole diameter. It looked like that's what you wanted. I used MS3D Builder to put the holes in and then repaired the altered model using Service.Netfabb.Com. Oh, and you type too quick. GV Repaired Plug.stl
    1 point
  22. Jop, sehr sogar, druckt sich problemlos, sehr saubere Schichten!
    1 point
  23. Well, he's a know it all, because he worked for ultimaker on Cura. In case that isn't enough, i can confirm that he's right. We never had a fuzzy skin on top. The arguments for that can be found in this ticket: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/issues/1419. I don't know who told you that you need to go back to 3.6, but that person is simply wrong.
    1 point
  24. Ich benutze ihn für einen UM2Go, der im originalen keinen Olsson Block und damit keine wechselbaren Düsen hat. Dieser Druckkopf der identisch mit dem UM2 (ohne +) ist, hat eine etwas andere Blechverkleidung verbaut und dort passt ein Olsson Block nur dann rein, wenn man das Blech etwas verbiegt. Daher habe ich die Fan Shroud gedruckt und verwende diesen. Der Airflow sollte auch etwas besser damit sein, wäre mir aber direkt noch nicht aufgefallen. Beim UM2+ und auch beim Connect (ist ja der gleiche Druckkopf) würde ich das nicht machen, da nicht notwendig. Ich habe auch einen UM2+Ex
    1 point
  25. @cav it's exactly what @gr5 said. All the Print Cores go through physical checks as well as functional tests (including printing with it) at the factory before they ship. A little residual filament in the Print Core is definitely normal. The Print Cores are tested with PLA, so anything that's still in the Print Core will purge out the first time you print with it.
    1 point
  26. Strange ... I have "just" 15 plugins from @fieldOfView in the Marketplace ? What is this this Compact Prepare Side... plugin ?
    1 point
  27. I Just realized that I asked a really similar question about 2 years ago. Back then, I could not solve the problem. However, now I was able to include the PyNacl library by unzipping the PyNacl wheel file of my operating system and including this folder in my project plugin folder. Then, by using your suggested method, I import the library and then Cura is able to load the library correctly. Thank you for your help! Cheers
    1 point
  28. I created a new topic for you as your post was off topic for where you posted. You don't want to tighten the belt - if anything that could make layer shifting worse. Instead you want to tighten the set screws on the pulleys. tighten the hell out of those. Usually it's the pulley on the stepper itself. What is happening is called a layer shift and can be caused by missing steps on your stepper (quite likely) or a loose pulley (also quite likely). You can figure out which by using a sharpie to mark the shaft of the stepper and the pulley to see if it moves
    1 point
  29. As you can see in picture below. Make sure you select these 2 things and "helpers" is checked.
    1 point
  30. By tilting the model, you have oriented the faces in such a way that jittering X and Y is enough. There is still no jittering in the Z axis of the print.
    1 point
  31. Wie alt ist der Bowden Schlauch? Das ist ein Verschleißteil und sollte regelmäßig getauscht werden. Im hinteren Bereich wird der Schlauch mehr gebogen und wenn die Reibung zu hoch ist, könnte das ein Grund sein.
    1 point
  32. Well it can't write to that file. That file is the cura program itself. So here are some possibilities: 1) The most common - when I see that error - is that the program is running (cura is running). I'd launch task manager and make sure Cura isn't running. Also go to that folder c:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.9.1\ see if the folder exists and see if Cura.exe is in it . If so then try to delete the file. If you can't delete it, particularly as administrator, then something has the program open. Worst case - reboot and try to delete it again. The insta
    1 point
  33. You might get more satisfactory print results if you specifically design or redesign it for 3D-printing. I gave the idea a quick and dirty try. These wings are way more stable and should print better, with or without brim. And the eye for the wire is less likely to break off. Also, it has less steep overhangs that could cause trouble. This is a very simple model made by adding and subtracting basic shapes, and then rounding and chamfering a few edges. Created in DesignSpark Mechanical. ... Okay, it looks more like a bomb than a rocket now, but hey. 🙂 Here the STL file, and the De
    1 point
  34. Das befürchtete ich... Danke für die Info! Dann lass mal die Fronttür offen bzw. weg und drucke die Datei nochmals. Bei meiner Einhausung habe ich knapp an die 50 Grad im Innenraum, wenn ich so zu habe. Wo soll der Drucker Luft herbekommen, die die 190 Grad wohin abführt, die zuviel sind? Du brauchst max. 40 Grad bei PLA am Übergang zwischen Coolend und Hotend. Dein Hotend heizt immer lustig auf 230 Grad, aber nicht alles geht ins Filament über (schlechter Wärmeleiter...) und somit kriecht der Überschuss schön langsam immer weiter nach oben. Damit wird das PLA weich, wo es noch nicht weic
    1 point
  35. You're not going to let those earrings win are you. The "Support Z Distance is 2 layer heights (.24) and that could be narrowed to .12. Changing to "Z overrides XY" might help. But you may be asking too much of the system. Trying to print a pin with the point down is never easy. So much depends on the layer adhesion at the start and the plastic is gooey so the initial speck gets pulled off the support structure. And as you saw, it can recover but on a small model there isn't much room for error. Here is your initial speck... I made
    1 point
  36. Sometimes curiosity gets the best of me. I save the ends of spools of filament to experiment. This came out really well and the raft snapped off perfect. There was zero bench work involved. The print speed was 60 with outer walls at 35 but the minimum layer time came into play so it printed quite a bit slower (the gcode says 21 and 12). The printer is a stock 8 bit Ender 3 Pro. I don't usually post prints but with a contact patch of "not much" on the raft I thought it was notable that it held up to the180mm height. BTW there was some leftover hairspray on the surface and
    1 point
  37. It's not listed on the page, but more than likely this is 1.75mm filament since it's mentioned as being Makerbot filament. So it will not work on any current Ultimaker printer as they all use 2.85mm.
    1 point
  38. It's the bottom support blocker configuration. Here is your Cutting Mesh; Here it is as an Infill Mesh:
    1 point
  39. Good to know it isn't just me. 🙂 I have stumbled onto a bit of a workaround by turning on Outer Before Inner Walls and then turning on Retract at Layer Change and adding a little Extra Prime Amount. It doesn't eliminate the 2nd pass, but since the outside wall prints right at the start of the layer, the nozzle is fully primed. It works for the type of print I'm doing, which is pretty much all straight unsupported wall. I don't think it would work as well for something more intricate. I will look into trying the beta and your other suggestions. Thanks for your help!
    1 point
  40. No, that is not it at all. Cura only "jitters" in the XY direction. Ultimaker Cura has never jittered in the Z direction.
    1 point
  41. If you care about bridging the most then you should only ask about bridging. I look at all your prints and they look pretty normal/typical except for the bridging pictures. I think you should ignore all issues except your bridging issue. Concentrate on one issue at a time. I believe I gave you zero help on bridging yet that was your most serious problem and now 5 days have gone by. Bridging will be worse close to the hot glass. I would be tempted to turn off the heat on the bed and use blue painters tape on the glass and re-level the bed (now with tape). But most i
    1 point
  42. Mea Culpa 😔 - Zerspaner_Gerd!! Ich hätte ihn echt beobachten sollen - aber wie auch immer; ich bin froh, dass ich nun weiß, was es ist.... Dieses blöde Ding ist anscheinend mal gelaufen und dann wieder nicht - und wenn ich dann dabei war, ist er gelaufen. Und ja, leider (oder Gott sei Dank) muss ich meine Zeit nicht sitzend vorm 3D Drucker verbringen 😁 Aber nochmals vielen Dank für deine Hilfe!!!! LG Helmut
    1 point
  43. OK, warum die Temperaturen fachlich so definiert wurden, kann ich auch nicht sagen. 🤷‍♂️ Ich kann nur versuchen, es technisch nachzuvollziehen. Ich glaube hier müssen wir uns erstmal einigen, was ein "Profil" ist. In der Cura Programm-Oberfläche wird nur ein (kleiner) Teil der Einstellungen überhaupt angezeigt. Wenn ich von Profilen rede, meine ich immer die Konfigurationdateien im Programm-Ordner (bzw. im AppImage - je nach Betriebssystem). Da haben wir unterhalb von "resources" alles mögliche dabei: xml, json, cfg/text Cura baut sich beim Start einen komple
    1 point
  44. 1 point
  45. There are some settings which you could use to fine tune to get better results for that objects. You could try to: Set "Slicing Tolerance" to exclusive Set horizontal expansion to a negative value Set Outer before Inner Walls Reduce Flow a little bit I am sure there are some more settings, but try one by one and check the result afterward before changing the next one.
    1 point
  46. Moin, probiere mal: M42 P8 S0 - für aus M42 P8 S255 - für an MFG Stefan
    1 point
  47. Here are 2 versions of a front cover for um3 where there is an area that sticks out so the head doesn't hit the front door.
    1 point
  48. When I saw this from @gr5 : Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers): 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C I decided to throw this data in an excel file so I could figure out the temperatures for the other layer heights. This is what I came up with Great reference for me personally as a beginner. If you see any errors, let me know!
    1 point
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