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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/23/2020 in all areas

  1. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    5 points
  2. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    3 points
  3. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    2 points
  4. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
    2 points
  5. No extra Raspberry Pi! No extra PSU! No extra firmware and keep it up to date! No extra "company" to ask questions if having problems! No extra I don't know what, but I'm sure there is more...
    2 points
  6. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  7. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    2 points
  8. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  9. Here's a new development snapshot, including the options added by @Cuq and the 1.0.0 release of @FormerLurker's commandline version of ArcWelder.
    1 point
  10. Here is my Take on Takeshi 6ix9ine's diamond 'Finding Nemo' style shark medallion, such a cool design, had to make one! lol Props to the jeweller Jimmy Phan. Just gotta plate this beast now, need more plating solution or a bespoke plating tank! but might just spray it for a change! 😛 Designed so none of the teeth needed internal supports as it would be impossible to get them out after! Very happy with the result and the Acetone smoothing as well! This one did need infill though due to the open mouth cavity! Haven't used infill in aaaages for art. But it really does help aceto
    1 point
  11. Thanks for the feedback and glad that you are back in business 😀
    1 point
  12. Best is to apply some glue on the glass and then distribute it with a wet tissue. Then you get a thin even layer of glue on the whole glass which gives a good adhesion.
    1 point
  13. I just tried it and indeed the fan was playing tricks on me. I have tried to disable it and the result has improved considerably I'm going to find another adapter for the fan that does not touch the nozzle THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
    1 point
  14. Another way to test the theory is to watch the nozzle temp when the fan comes on. Usually that's the second layer.
    1 point
  15. The idea is to cool the layer that has completed before the next layer is printed on top. If the existing layer is too hot you get bad results (like bad overhangs for example). If it points too much instead at the nozzle then you need to turn the fan on very slowly. There is a feature in cura where you can have the fan come on slowly over the course of 5 layers but sometimes the first increment in fan speed causes a problem. This might all have nothing to do with your issue. Just a theory that fits what we see so far.
    1 point
  16. I'm running 4 monitors, this did the trick! I unplugged all but 1 monitor and Cura opened normally. I was then able to access the menus and do as you stated. It seems to be working fine now. Thank you very much!!
    1 point
  17. Thanks for your help, I tried to print it and had the issue. I used netfabb repair service and seem to be good on Cura ! I will try to print it soon. Thanks !
    1 point
  18. FYI - using "normal" (not pt100) thermistors for the bed is more common because the bed doesn't get all that hot so pretty much any cheap thermistor will work and these are easier to deal with from an arduino point of view (arduino can measure the resistance more accurately and hence get a more accurate temperature). There's nothing inherently less accurate about a PT100 but the circuitry to measure the PT100 resistance gets more complicated if you want good accuracy on the temp reading. Regarding that build error - I'd contact Adedee Bulle directly. I think he is this guy: @amed
    1 point
  19. Do you use multiple displays? If so, try disabling all but one of them temporarily. If Cura starts succesfully with a single monitor, go to the General preferences and uncheck the "Restore window position on start". Then you can re-enable the other screens, and Cura should always open on your primary screen.
    1 point
  20. I agree with the above, I am sure it could be done with a usb network card and the memory card in the sd-reader as storage. The bord in the machine should be capable to handle the rest. This way all the old UM2+ could still work and get support for firmware upgrade network printing etc. I have tried octaprint and don't fell i get the same result when printing, might be a bad config on my part but as this now is part of other printers. I am sure you already have 90% of the software in place and I would pay for the upgrade to not have to bother with a second device and a solid experience.
    1 point
  21. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
    1 point
  22. Well done gr5. You sorted. The X Y Z were all set at 100mm instead of 200MM. For information:- When i got this printer in September I had a lot of models that wouldn't stick down properly. Got in touch with Labists who said that the temp on the base should be 60' and the extruder should be 240' when i pointed out to them that their manual recommended 50' and 200' they admitted it was printed wrong, but were not going to change till next year. I also got a roll of decorators blue tape. I've not had anything come loose since. Once again thanks for your help.
    1 point
  23. In my further research, the "internet" suggests the fans won't run unless they are at least 25%. I have mine set to 8% in Cura and 100% on the material profile and they start and run at 8% perfectly fine... 🤷🏼‍♂️ I mean they are moving very slowly, but they are running.
    1 point
  24. Wir drücken die Daumen, haben im Lockdown eh nicht viel zu tun 🙂
    1 point
  25. Well, rule N°One on these forums , When @ahoeben say's something it's true. So yes in Cura you can print something from an Image even if it's not the best solution.
    1 point
  26. It seems likely you are printing or have not clicked the confirm removal button on your print. Please confirm removal and/or abort or wait for any running print to finish completely. The printer will reboot so to preserve a running print we don't allow users to enable/disable this setting during printing. Can you check if that solves the problem for you?
    1 point
  27. @Cuq, it looks old because I haven't updated the master branch. Find the most recent artifacts here. You can see which branch they are associated with on the right. Find 'ArcWelder' or 'ArcWelder.exe' in the bin folder of the zip and run with the --help flag for documentation. Let me know how it goes!
    1 point
  28. Hi, You can turn developer mode on and off via the printer's display (in the settings menu). Depending on whether you have an Ultimaker 3, S3 or S5 it'll be in a different location in the menu structure. Chris
    1 point
  29. Thank you Gr5 (or should I say Gr8 -3). I saw this setting before, but as I am not a 3D printer guy, let alone an ultimaker guy, I didn't want to wipe settings that may be vital. Everything is back and working, CURA seems to not even notice anything changed.
    1 point
  30. I my opinion the upgrade would not need to cover the face plate ext it's only the network connection that is really missing in the UM2+
    1 point
  31. Es gibt doch schwarzes HIPS z.B. von Formfutura, welches du dann in D-Limonene auflösen kannst. Dann gibt es noch spoolWorks Scaffold, das gibt es auch in dunkel und ist wasserlöslich.
    1 point
  32. Das Teilen ist nicht nötig. Man kann ein Modifier Mesh definieren, dieses so skalieren und positionieren, dass es das fragliche Volumen überlappt und dann den anderen Extruder diesem Volumen zuteilen.
    1 point
  33. Also die 50 Watt scheinen mir auch sehr Überdimensioniert. Die größte Herausforderung für die Patronen ist wahrscheinlich der plötzliche Lüfter Einsatz bzw. stellen (große plane Flächen) im Modell, wo dann die Luft abprallt und direkt auf den Heaterblock/Nozzle bläst und abkühlt. Wenn ich mich an den 25W Patronen zurück erinnere, kam der Heater Error eigentlich nur in Verbindung mit den Lüfter. Das kannst du bei deinen aktuellen Teile evtl. auch mal testen, vielleicht gibt es dir eine bessere gleichmäßigere Layer Qualität, einfach mal den Lüfter nur auf max.
    1 point
  34. You are totally right! And hey, I'm an engineer, I can build my own printer! In fact I can build almost anything by my own - but I have not the time to do so. And that's the reason why I decided to buy and not to build a 3d printer. And the reason why it's an Ultimaker, I wrote in my last post.
    1 point
  35. I really don't know but I'm pretty sure that the S3 will also get an Air Manager in the foreseeable future. It simply makes sense to have it on the S-Line printers, because the S-Line printers are mainly used to print materials that require a stable environment.
    1 point
  36. I finally converted my printer to DXU, but I am not using the original DXU print head, instead, I make use of the original head with modification, so that I can keep using the metal parts. I found this modification design from Chat room, however, the author only released the STL files and some them seems not work well. Therefore, I based on the original head dimension and reference to the STL file, I redraw all of them with Solidwork, modified some key area, attached the photos of my build as well as the parts photo exported from Solidwork. This head now used for over 100 hours
    1 point
  37. It's a known issue that Cura is super slow to start if the X drive is used (if i recall correctly). Since that doesn't happen often it never got priority to get fixed.
    1 point
  38. Prints in a print! A little color to brighten up some gray, rainy fall days here. Flower model by 4frika: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1440472 I found the bowl on ScanTheWorld; I really want to take some more pictures of it from the side. The Matte fiber filament looks good, though I had to sink the model into the bed a few mm since it wasn't flat. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-a-stemmed-bowl-54121
    1 point
  39. On the 19th October while you were writing this I was installing my new S5 Pro bundle. I'm sitting here waiting a response from my reseller for a raft of issues that means three prints in I'm stopped and the machine just doesn't work. Seems to hang up at the end of the print and never completes the 'finishing' phase. No error messages. Only way to get it to do anything is switch it off and back on again. This is the sequence of actions since installing the machine: New machine purchased and installed 19/10/2020 Firmware updated via wifi to 5.8.2. Trial print
    1 point
  40. As far as I know, currently not. The mobile app only notifies you about the start and the end of a print job, but not about an error. Ultimaker is aware about that, so I am sure they work on a solution.
    1 point
  41. I think that the meshtool plugin can do that :
    1 point
  42. Hi, I've been having this issue for a few days now. I get the "Nozzle offset probe failed. Check the nozzles and bed and try again. When auto-leveling, the bed comes up and pushes core 2 into the print head. No matter how high I manually level the bed, I get the same issue. Here is what I've tried so far. Manually leveled the bed, at numerous different heights (tight springs to loose springs), re-seated the print head wire harness, re-seated the sensor plug, unplugged the fan and tried without it, updated firmware, changed print cores out with brand
    1 point
  43. Is Ultimaker planning to release a scaled down version of the Air Manager for the S3 printer? Or even a smaller material station? I would think you could get 4 spools into the smaller S3 footprint.
    1 point
  44. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
    1 point
  45. I have done a few things on my S5 so far. The first thing I did was to replace the UM glass plate with a spring steel print plate by Filafarm (for PLA, PETG, ASA, TPU...). The set came as 4 seperate parts: the spring steel, the print surface sheet, the magnetic sheet and a thinner glas plate. The magnetic sheet with an adhesive side is mounted on the thin glass plate and clamped in the S5 bed sheet metal tabs. The thin glass plate broke in half a few weeks ago but Filafarm quickly send me a free replacement. They told me this has never happened before. Nonetheless the trust i
    1 point
  46. Yep defo go with a Polybox, it’s what I use on mine.
    1 point
  47. There are a few things to check. One thing you don't need to worry about is the firmware or rebooting. That rebooting "fixed" your issue is probably a coincidence. 1) First and foremost, check the wires. Swing open the print head and check the wires. The sensor is a flat plate at the base of the print head (as close as possible and paraellel to the print bed when doing active leveling). There are 2 wires there (for me it's a red and white wire). Tug on each gently and if one is disconnected then this is the issue. Also remove the 2 screws at the back of the print head (very
    1 point
  48. Bye bye soft and hello shiny lol! However the soft coating felt really nice like silk or satin or something, very smooth to the touch! I have 2 more skulls to play with, The shinyness really brings out the subtle imperfections! This is because im not dipping and only light brushing trying to maintain maximum detail. A long dip would sort out most layer lines but at the cost of sharp corners and subtle cavitities.gonna try a blue patina one next. They always look sexy but decay real fast if not sealed right!!! I may have to do a terminator skull next...
    1 point
  49. Hallo Martin, soweit ich weiß, ist es eher umgekehrt. Der AA Core ist _nicht_ für PVA geeignet, bzw. die "normalen" Düsen neigen zu Verstopfung, wenn sie mit PVA gefüttert werden. Deshalb gibt es den BB Core mit (mindestens) einer veränderten internen Geometrie für die Düse. Der BB _kann_ auch andere Materialien drucken, tropft dann aber ein wenig mehr nach, oder so ähnlich. Ob noch andere Dinge im BB Core verändert sind, ist wahrscheinlich noch ein Betriebsgeheimnis... Gedacht ist es so, das einfach alle (unterstützten) Materialien - außer PVA - mit dem AA Core verarbeitet werden. Experim
    1 point
  50. I think this is the file you mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qeplfe7opojftuy/MiniCalTest.stl?dl=0
    1 point
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