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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/19/2019 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  2. 4 points
    This orange component removes the finished parts from the press. The part replaced an aluminum part, which in each case additionally had to be equipped with a teflon glider and was also much more expensive to manufacture. In addition, the 3d printed component was provided with a break point, which protects the upper punch against damage in the event of a crash.
  3. 3 points
    You could try rotating it 90 degrees.The problem is that printers aren't simultaneous 3d so the Z will always be in small steps because they can't move all three axis at the same time. I work with cnc's and printer is what we refer to at 21/2D.
  4. 2 points
    This is a common problem and trivial to fix. It usually happens when someone picks up the printer and they squeeze a long belt too hard and it skips a tooth. Push the print head to the center of each of the 4 sides and pay attention to the side blocks and see if they stop at the same point or if one can keep moving. Also look straight down on the two rods that pass through the head and see if they visually don't look quite square. If either of these are true then it's easy to fix. Here is one description of how to fix it: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/19953-aligning-the-axles
  5. 2 points
    Mache ich dann in einem neuen Thread Ende August.🏖️
  6. 2 points
    Your question starts out very reasonable, but I wonder what you wanted to achieve by adding the "(better)" there. It makes me want to answer with "you may want to get a different (better) printer". Cura supports printing over USB. Ultimaker does not offer support for it though. It may work, it may not. If it doesn't for your printer, Ultimaker is not going to fix it for you. Perhaps you can ask your printer manufacturer to contribute a fix. My personal advice would be to get a Raspberry Pi (model 3 or 3+) and install OctoPrint on it. Then you can use the OctoPrint Connection plugin to send the gcode to your printer, and your Mac will not have to stay connected to the printer during the print.
  7. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  8. 2 points
    Don't know, if it helps, but once upon a time someone developed a similar thing with PHP, but with the "old" API (that needs authentication). It should be rather easier in your case. Here is a link to the topic:
  9. 2 points
    So.... what you're saying is... there is literally no reason NOT to go Mark2! Thank you.
  10. 2 points
    Below where it says "marketplace" in black there is a bar/button thing you click on and something pops up beneath it. At the bottom of that box is a blue button that either says "custom" or "recommended" click on that until it says "recommended". Now hopefully it is visible. If not try entering the letter Z in the search box just above the quality bar.
  11. 2 points
    So you need to be looking in the CuraEngine repo. The top-level infill code is in src/infill.h and src/infill.cpp. There are files in the src/infill directory that contain the code for specific infill types.
  12. 2 points
    A new version of the plugin is required, see here:
  13. 2 points
    You can always use a previous version of Cura, i'm guessing you are not missing a vital functionality that is only there in 4.2 ?
  14. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  15. 2 points
    No. The failed importing was because of a bug. Which is why we do betas 😉 It should be fixed for the 4.2 release. As for the profiles being worse, I wouldn't know. We got the pull request and a lot of people agreed that they were better (and no-one disagreed). We simply can't test any other printers than our own (and even if we could, it would be insanely expensive for us to do so).
  16. 2 points
    There's an option "Mesh Fixes -> Remove All Holes" which does exactly what you describe. Perhaps it is accidentally checked? 🤷‍♂️ Have you made a try with one of the default printing profiles?
  17. 2 points
    Fantasiewerte sind es nicht - es sind max. Werte, die mit Einschränkungen erreicht werden können. Da du so gern auf Autos, insbesondere eines Konzerns rumreitest, du kannst ja auch z.b. bei einem Auto, das max. Drehzahl 7000 U/min hat und dabei 230 PS entwickelt, die Drehzahl fahren und hast die Leistung. Das ist fakt. Ist Physikalisch berechenbar und auf der Rolle Verifizierbar. Aber käme jemand auf die Idee, mit 7000 U/min. mit seinem Auto dauerhaft durch die "Pampa" zu geigen? Vermutlich nicht - es sei den, der Sprit ist Ihm zu billig und er will seinen Motor "killen". Da genügt es schon, dass im Winter direkt nach dem Starten des Motors sowas zu probieren oder nach dem er richtig Heiß gefahren ist, einfach ausschalten. Aber die Drehzahl kann er und die Leistung hat er da dann auch. Wenn du soviel Bauraum brauchst, kommt es, wie @DirgDiggler, schon versuchte, dir zu erklären, auf dein Bauteil an. Manchmal, je nach Bauteil genügt ja schon 45 Grad drehen, aber da hier keiner Weiß, wovon du redest, wird da nichts konstuktives bei "rumkommen"... Theoretisch wäre auch die Kamera abmontierbar, was auch noch mal in Y die max. Länge etwas weiter ermöglichen würde, wenn man das beschriebene nachvollzieht. Gruß, Digibike
  18. 2 points
    Hi The shapes of those holes looks just like mine did a month ago. All screws to the motor had gone loose so just tightened them and it was all good again.
  19. 2 points
    Wonder why there isn't any more discussion after August 7,2017? This is a fantastic design and topic.
  20. 2 points
    This is a work in progress. Since surgery, I am working with some side effects (still) so, I am slow and having to work bunches to get around them. Printed on the S5. This is the model on the build plate. Still not finished. Gotta really sharpen details and work a bit more on the overall bust. Sliced, you can see the details disappear..... Print is rough as hell....After years of no PVA issues, getting them now... ☹️
  21. 2 points
    With Cura 4.2 beta available now, it would help me if you tested this version of the sidebar gui plugin: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-07-18T12_34_52Z.curapackage Download the file and drop it onto a running Cura 4.2 application window. Then restart Cura and it should have the sidebar gui.
  22. 2 points
    Just thought I'd try to print some glasses on a model rather than adding ,(my photogrammetry scanned cousin). Glasses were scanned separately on a table by the way. Printing worked great but made the eyes harder to clean up being behind the glasses. Default support settings. Sprayed white. I'm starting to experiment with paint now... Pooh brown colorfabb at 0.06 Hopefully ill have a model in space by Monday, fingers crossed.
  23. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  24. 1 point
    Thanks for the project file. Hmm, very weird, It looks to me that those sections are being inverted, i.e. the hole is treated as solid and gets skin and the non-hole area which should be skin is empty (if you turn off the fill gaps between walls setting). At this time, I can't say where the bug is. Possibly in the front end but it looks more likely to be in the slicer back end. Interestingly, when I sliced the led_panel.stl using different settings there wasn't a problem so I will continue to investigate.
  25. 1 point
    Thanks for the models. I was wrong, the models are OK. However, I can slice led_panel.stl and it looks OK. It must, instead, be a problem with the settings. Please save the project file and attach to this thread. Thanks.
  26. 1 point
    Hier ein post mit gleichen Problem evtl. vielleicht gleicher Fehler!
  27. 1 point
    I expect the model has a problem. Please attach it to this thread. Thanks.
  28. 1 point
    Hast du das gleiche Teil schon mit einem anderen Slicer wie z.B. dem PrusaSlicer probiert?
  29. 1 point
    Wer dennoch was Spitzes drucken möchte, kann über Stützstrucktur machen. Winkel auf 80° eingeben. Wenn das Stütztmaterial zu klein ist, kann über "Horizontale Erweiterung der Stützstrucktur" und "Stütz Brim aktivieren" auf 1 oder mehr eingeben und gegebenfalls Stützdach aktivieren. Die Pfeilerfunktion hätte sowieso keine Bedeutung, da Spitze auf Spitze nicht funktionieren würde.
  30. 1 point
    If the Z axis is consistent then just change the steps/mm accordingly in tinkerMarlin. If the stepper is losing power sometimes and the weight of the bed moves it down enough to skip a step then lower the current to the Z stepper. Ultimaker has a history of lowering the current to the Z stepper I think 2 times over the years on the UM2. First down to 1000ma and then I think down to 900ma. The stepper can overheat and turn off for well under a second. Underextrusion sounds more serious. Did you get a clone print head of the UM2? Is the 3rd fan working well? There are many crazy details about the print head that seem unimportant but really matter a lot. Like the thermal contact between the round nut and the aluminum base plate and the thermal contact to the fan heatsink in the rear of the head. Is that 3rd fan working well? Is the teflon squeezed too much? Note that the bottom layer is printed slower and with a larger gap and when you speed up slowly on the next 5 layers underextrusion just gets worse and worse - maybe you are simply printing too fast. Here's my complete list of underextrusion issues for UM2. CAUSES FOR UNDEREXTRUSION UM2 AND HOW TO TEST FOR THEM AND REMEDY THEM One can quickly check the feeder (it takes seconds) so I would always do that first. The feeder on UM2+ and UM2 can push with 10 pounds (5kg) force easily so first thing is to lift that lever (if um2+, if um2 regular do move material) and insert filament so it is only part way into the bowden (e.g. half way). Then move the filament with "move material" command in menu so the feeder is energized and then pull down on the filament under the feeder. You should be able to pull with 5 to 10 pounds force without it slipping. Then have it move the material up while you pull down. 5 pounds force (2kg) is enough to make decent prints at moderate speeds listed below but you need 10 pounds (5kg) to print fast (e.g. 0.2mm layers and 60mm/sec) As far as underextrusion causes - there's just so damn many. none of the issues seem to cause more than 20% of problems so you need to know the top 5 issues to cover 75% of the possibilities and 1/4 people still won't have the right issue. Some of the top issues: 1) Print slower and hotter! Here are top recommended speeds for .2mm layers (twice as fast for .1mm layers) and .4mm nozzle: 20mm/sec at 200C 30mm/sec at 210C 40mm/sec at 225C 50mm/sec at 240C The printer can do double these speeds but with huge difficulty and usually with a loss in part quality due to underextrusion. Different colors print best at quite different temperatures and due to imperfect temp sensors, some printers print 10C cool so use these values as an initial starting guideline and if you are still underextruding try raising the temp. But don't go over 240C with PLA. 2) Shell width confusion. Shell width must be a multiple of nozzle size (in cura 15.X. In cura 2.X it doesn't matter as much but still makes a difference). For example if nozzle size is .4mm and shell width is 1mm cura will make the printer do 2 passes with .5mm line width which is possible but requires you to slow down much more to make a .5mm line out of a .4mm nozzle. If you really want this then set nozzle size to .5mm so it's clear what you are asking Cura to do for you. 3) Isolator - this is most common if you've printed extra hot (>240C) for a few hours or regular temps (220C) for 500 hours. It gets soft and compresses the filament under pressure. It's the white part touching the heater block. It's very hard to test when not under full pressure (spring and bowden) so sometimes it's best to just replace it. Also if you notice parts of it are very soft (the blacker end where it touches higher heat) then it's too old and needs replacing. 4) Curved filament at end of spool - if you are past half way on spool, try a fresh spool as a test. 5) curved angle feeding into feeder - put the filament on the floor -makes a MASSIVE difference. 6) UM2 only: Head too tight? Bizarrely MANY people loosen the 4 screws on the head by just a bit maybe 1/2 mm and suddenly they can print just fine! Has to do with pressure on the white teflon isolator. 6b) UM2 only: Bowden pushing too hard - for the same reason you don't want the bowden pushing too hard on the isolator. 6c) Um2 only: Spring pushing too hard. Although you want a gap you want as small as possible a gap between teflon isolator and steel isolator nut such that the spring is compressed as little as possible. 7) clogged nozzle - the number one problem of course - even if it seems clear. There can be build up on the inside of the nozzle that only burning with a flame can turn to ash and remove. Sometimes a grain of sand gets in there but that's more obvious (it just won't print). Atomic method (cold pull) helps but occasionally you need to remove the entire heater block/nozzle assembly and use flame. I found soaking with acetone does not help with caramelized pla. Even overnight. Maybe it works on ABS though. Simpler cold pull: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u07m3HTNyEg 😎 Temp Sensor bad - even the good ones vary by +/- 5C and bad ones can be any amount off - they usually read high and a working sensor can (rarely) fail high slowly over time. Meaning the sensor thinks you are at 220C but actually you are at 170C. At 170C the plastic is so viscous it can barely get out of the nozzle. You can verify your temp sensor using this simple video at youtube - on you tube search for this: mrZbX-SfftU 9) feeder spring issues - too tight, too loose. On the black UM2 feeder you want the tension such that you can clearly see the diamond pattern biting into the filament. You want to see at least 2 columns of diamonds. 4 columns is too much. On the white UM2 plus and UM3 feeders you usually want the tension set in the center. 10) Other feeder issues, one of the nuts holding UM2 and UM3 together often interferes with the feeder motor tilting it enough so that it still works but not very well. Other things that tilt the feeder motor, sleeve misaligned so it doesn't get a good grip. Gunk clogging the mechanism in there. 11) Filament diameter too big - 3mm is too much. 3mm filament is usually 2.85mm nominal or sometimes 2.9mm +/- .05. But some manufacturers (especially in china) make true 3.0mm filament with a tolerance of .1mm which is useless in an Ultimaker. It will print for a few meters and then clog so tight in the bowden you will have to remove the bowden from both ends to get the filament out. Throw that filament in the trash! It will save you weeks of pain 11b) Something wedged in with the filament. I was setting up 5 printers at once and ran filament change on all of them. One was slowly moving the filament through the tube and was almost to the head when I pushed the button and it sped up and ground the filament badly. I didn't think it was a problem and went ahead and printed something but there was a ground up spot followed by a flap of filament that got jammed in the bowden tube. Having the "plus" upgrade or using the IRobertI feeder helps you feel this with your hand by sliding the filament through the bowden a bit to see if it is stuck. 12) Hot weather. If air is above 30C or even possibly 25C, the air temperature combined with the extruder temperature can soften the filament inside the feeder such that it is getting squeezed flat as it passes through the feeder - this is obvious as you can see the problem in the bowden. The fix is to add a desk fan blowing on the back of the printer. Not an issue on the UM3 or UM2 "plus" series. 13) Crimped bowden. At least one person had an issue where the bowden was crimped a bit too much at the feeder end although the printer worked fine when new it eventually got worse and had underextrusion on random layers. it's easy to pull the bowden out of the feeder end and examine it. 14) Worn Bowden. After a lot of printing (or a little printing with abrasive filaments) the bowden resistance can be significant. It's easy to test by removing it completely from the machine and inserting some filament through it while one person holds it in the U shape. Preferably i nsert filament that has the pattern from the feeder. 15) Small nozzle. Rumor has it some of the .4mm nozzles are closer to .35mm. Not sure if this is actually true. I'm a bit skeptical but try a .6mm nozzle maybe. 16) CF filament. The knurled sleeve in the extruder can get ground down smooth - particularly from carbon fill. 4 spools of CF will destroy not just nozzles but the knurled sleeve also. Look at it visually where the filament touches the "pyramids". Make sure the pyramids are sharp. 17) Hot feeder driver. I've seen a more recent problem in the forums (>=2015) where people's stepper drivers get too hot - this is mostly a problem with the Z axis but also with the feeder. The high temps means the driver appears to shut down for a well under a second - maybe there is a temp sensor built into the driver chip? The solution from Ultimaker is that they lowered all the currents to their stepper drivers in the newer firmware. Another solution is to remove the cover and use desk fan to get a tiny bit of air movement under there. TinkerMarlin lets you set the currents from the menu system or you can send a gcode to lower the current. Ultimaker lowered the default currents in July of 2015 from 1300ma to 1200ma for X,Y,Z but left extruder at 1250. Other people (I think the support team of a major reseller but I forget) recommend X,Y,Z go down to 1000mA. M907 E1250 Above sets the extruder max current to the default - 1250mA. So try 900mA. This will only change until next power cycle so if you like your new value and want to save it use M500. You can just put these into an otherwise empty gcode file and "print" this and it will change. Or get tinkergnome marlin! You will wonder how you lived without it: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases M907 E900 M500 18) third fan broken. This tends to cause complete non-extrusion part way through a print. In the rear of the head for UM2 and the front of the head for UM3. Without this fan several things can go wrong. It can take a while as usually you also need several retractions to carry the heat upwards. There are a few failure mechanisms and I don't understand them all. One of them is probably that the molten PLA spreads out above the teflon and sticks to the metal in a core or fills the gap at the base of the bowden in UM2. Later it cools enough to keep the filament from moving up or down. 19) Spiralize/vase mode. This is a rarely used feature of Cura but you might have left it on by accident? In this mode the wall of your part is printed in a single pass. So if you have a .4mm nozzle and the wall is .8mm thick it will try to over extrude by 2X. This is difficult to do and may instead lead to underextrusion. 20) non-standard or bent fan shroud. Sometimes people print some fan shroud off of thingiverse or youmagine out of PLA or ABS. Some of these are great but most of them are crap. One needs to do good air flow modeling. Also if it's PLA it will slump and direct air differently. Air directed at the block or nozzle can cause severe underextrusion and also sometimes HEATER ERROR. Put the original shroud back on or just turn off the fan to prove that the fan is the problem. 21) Firmware settings - for example UM2+ firmware on UM2 or vice versa will cause 2X over extrusion or 2X underextrusion. Downgrading or changing firmware can mess up steps/mm and other settings - so if you updated firmware and then problems started then do a "reset to factory settigns" which corrects all the steps/mm values. 22) too many retractions (this causes complete failure) - if you have too many retractions on the same piece of filament you can grind it to dust. 10 is usually safe. 20 is in the danger zone. 50 should guarantee failure. You can tell cura to limit retractions to 10 per a given spot of filament. Do this by setting "maximum retration count" to 10 and "minimum extrusion distance" to your retraction distance (4.5mm for UM2 and 6.5 for UM3 and 8mm for S5). 23) Brittle filament. Espciallty with older PLA but even brand new pla can do this. If you unspool some (for example if it's in the bowden) for many hours (e.g. 10 hours) it can get extremely brittle and it can snap off into multiple pieces in the bowden. It's not obvious if you don't look for this. Then it starts printing just fine and at some point one of those pieces reaches the print head and gets hung up somewhere and the printer suddenly stops extruding for now apparent reason. This usually happens within the first meter of filament - once you get to printing the filament that was recently on the spool it should be fine from then on. 24) The "plus" feeder can have an issue where the filament doesn't sit properly for one print and it permanently damages the arm inside the feeder as shown by this photo - the hole is ground down asymetrically: http://gr5.org/plus_feeder_issue.jpg 25) Other feeder issues. You can test the feeder by putting the filament only part way down the bowden and with the feeder electrically turned on (or moving) pull very hard on the filament until it slips. You should be able to pull with about 5kg or 10 pounds of force before it slips. 4kg is acceptable. 2kg is a problem. If the stepper motor isn't engaged you can try going into the move menu. After a minute or so power is removed again from the feeder stepper.
  31. 1 point
    First of all, the command_util script is a debug tool that Ultimaker uses internally and has no official support. This means that we don't test it every release and behaviour might change without notice. I haven't tried the root login for this in a long time so it is very well possible that's broken (from the dump it seems like a dbus access right is missing). The recommended way for starting the util_command is by logging in as ultimaker / ultimaker. This will immediately give you the command prompt. Or, when you are logged in as root you can do an: su ultimaker As mentioned above, before you can execute any G0 or G1 command the head is to be homed once: G28 X Y Z or short: G28 Having said all this, I don't know why you want to move the head, but the recommended procedure is to use the web API.
  32. 1 point
    you could download and install xampp, it would be easier for you to start programming. https://www.apachefriends.org/index.html
  33. 1 point
    We decided against the homing before resuming because the switches do have a small tolerance. The accuracy is good enough for homing but was never intended to be used as an absolute accurate position calibration. A shift problem after a material change during a print is rare. The motors remain engaged to keep the position locked and it requires considerable force to move the head but it is possible. As suggested, another cause for the shift could be a glass plate shift, this can't be detected or fixed. I'll keep an open eye for more problem reports of this type.
  34. 1 point
    We're trying to stabilise the API's (we did a piss poor job on that before), so i hope that these checks wont be necessary anymore.
  35. 1 point
    Hi all, I've printed this object in Spiralize outer contour mode and the experimental fuzzy skin enabled. The result is really great! Only thing that's weird: there is an obvious diagonal line which spiral's from top to bottom. It is almost as if the average skin density changes (gradually decreases) from the start of a layer towards the end of a layer... Does anyone have any idea what causes this? FYI; without fuzzy skin this line is not visible. It clearly is caused by a change in density of the fuzzy skin ( perhaps in combination with the spiralize mode). Thanks a lot for any reactions and tips!
  36. 1 point
    I hear you about the motor skills, It taken me many years just to gain the ones I have at the moment. Given time brains luckily tend to remap themselves so fingers crossed for you!! Will be posting some pics for your entertainment soon!!!
  37. 1 point
    My department at work had a U3X and it was very sensitive to power fluctuations. Our office was in an industrial park, and if the lights flickered, you knew it was going to stop. Sometimes it would stop without any power events. We bought a nice ($130) UPS for it and it never happened again.
  38. 1 point
    @Produktdesigner Ich verstehe deine "Aufregung" hier im Forum nicht so ganz. Du hast eine Frage nach der max. Bauraumgröße im Dualdruck gestellt und hast diverse Antworten dazu bekommen. Die von UM angegebenen Maximalwerte stimmen schon, man kann diese Abmessungen drucken, nur nicht im vollen Rechteck. Auch dazu hast du etliche Erklärungen bekommen, die aber deinen Standpunkt trotzdem nicht ändern konnten. Ist in Ordnung, man kann durchaus anderer Meinung sein. Da du anscheinend immer noch frustriert bist, wäre es das Beste deinen Frust bei deinem Reseller loszuwerden. Falls du der Meinung bist, UM würde seine Kunden wegen der angegebenen Werte absichtlich täuschen und in die Irre führen, dann ist auch der Reseller dein Ansprechpartner. Denn nur dort kannst du eine etwaige Rückabwicklung vom Kaufvertrag besprechen und vereinbaren. Wie auch immer, was mir sauber aufstoßt, ist die Art und Weise wie hier manchmal aufgetreten wird. Wir sind hier alle freiwillige 3D Druck Fans, die gerne ihr Wissen mit anderen teilen. Wir sind nicht dazu da, den Frust von anderen aufzufangen. Macht auch wenig Sinn, denn das hier ein Community Forum und kein offizieller UM Support Kanal, auch wenn hin und wieder ein paar UM Mitarbeiter mitlesen und antworten. Aber z.B. hier im deutschen Unterforum sind nur wir da - die User. Da du gerne Autovergleiche machst, es macht auch keinen Sinn, wenn ich mit meinem Auto Probleme habe und meinen Frust dann bei der nächsten roten Ampel an jemanden auslasse der zufällig das gleich Auto fährt. Darüber sprechen und sich austauschen ist erwünscht, aber wie immer im Leben, der Ton macht die Musik - bitte denke daran. Danke!
  39. 1 point
    How are you using 2 extruders now? do you have a single hotend? I have 2 extruders and that Y together into a single nozzle. Any thoughts on how to make that work with CURA? Printer is a CR-10s
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    About the oval shape, I already replied to your other thread, you have to align your axles. About the problem with the top layer, it would help if you can post a picture here, that we can see what's wrong. Additionally it is also helpful if you save your Cura project as 3mf file and upload it here too, then we have the object and all your Cura settings.
  42. 1 point
    It is...we are at least a few who are using this extruder on our Ultimakers and it works great :) The main reason why the discussion stopped is that the creator is, sadly, no longer alive :(
  43. 1 point
    Modified from a previous design published by others. I have shortened and broadened the retainer clip, so that it wouldn't crash against the glass doors when printing an object that reaches to the very front of the build plate. Note that this design is specific to the S5. I strongly advise to always use this retainer clip. I have completely destroyed a printhead because the front disengaged from its wimpy little magnets and crashed into the model (fortunately UM accepted that this was a warranty issue). https://grabcad.com/library/1033247
  44. 1 point
    While not on an Ultimaker, I've had great results with XSTRAND GF30-PA6 and 3DXTECH PA6-GF30 used in conjunction with Taulman SAC1060 support material (dual extruder machines). SAC1060 is specifically formulated for use with Nylon materials, serving as a breakaway support material - I prefer using it over soluble support materials like BVOH (HydroFill, etc), prints come out much nicer. Glue stick works well for glass filled nylons.
  45. 1 point
    You should be able to see this in the layer-view in Cura. But you always have the option to design your own custom supports in CAD, and switch off automatically generated supports. Then you have full freedom, and you can design-in features to make removal of the supports easier, or to increase stability, or whatever you want. See the pink and orange supports here, which extend from the model so I can grab them with pliers. This is a very small model, too small to get in with a knife and cut the supports loose. I also provided an additional baseplate to make the support more stable, so it is not knocked over due to its long overhang. Same in red-cyan 3D, which gives better depth-perception:
  46. 1 point
    Hi Nick, I have printed the PA6 XStrand on the S5 with glue, Magigoo, and painters tape. I use the XStrand for the support material, usually a 25% zigzag.
  47. 1 point
    Yeah! External fans blowing into the printer is not good. I learnt this during my first month. I sat the printer in a server rack which turned out to be a bad idea. Kept getting blocked nozzles and all sorts of issues i didnt get before. A uniform enviroment is ideal.
  48. 1 point
    Thank you yyh1002. For this awsome mod and all the help i got from you to get this working. Everything is printed in CPE from Fillamentum. "lever" mechanism is printed in Carbonfiber Nylon. Still some finetuning left. But it does the job VERY well.
  49. 1 point
    You can't measure the resitance with the power on. You can't trust that measurement so ignore it. The way a multimeter and the way the UM measure resistance is by putting some current through the temp sensor and measuring the voltage across it. If both instruments are putting current through the temp sensor it will get a higher voltage and both will read higher than intended. The multimeter puts much less current though (much more sophisticated instrument) and so the UM doesn't notice but the multimeter notices when the UM has power on. The error you are getting only occurs if you have SEVERE errors in resistance such as 0 ohms or 1000 ohms. This can only happen if you have a short circuit or open. Short circuit is very unlikely. What's much more likely is a wire is just barely connected and moving the bed or touching the cable moves it to an open. The problem could be where the cable connects to the PCB but much more likely it is at one of two places: either the screw-down connector on the board or in the solder connection between the connector and board. I recommend you reheat all 4 solder connections and remove and re-insert the PT100 wiring. The PT100 can indeed fail but the odds are 95% wiring problem, 4% PCB proglem, 1% PT100 problem (one person on the forum convinced me it was really their pt100 that was at fault - about 2 years ago). https://ultimaker.com/en/community/view/5791-error-stopped-temp-sensor-bed-solved
  50. 1 point
    I'm the one who wrote the guide. What about the process to fix the issue is it that you find difficult to understand? You either have a loose pulley which is fixed by tightening the indicated screw(s). Or, probably more likely, the pulley of the motor is rubbing against the side of the printer. To fix that you need to first loosen the screw, then slide the pulley closer to the motor and finally re-tighten. Depending on if you can reach the screw while the motor is in place or not you might also have to remove the motor first.
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