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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/04/2020 in Posts

  1. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    5 points
  2. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    4 points
  3. After a successful BETA period we are ready to launch Ultimaker Cura 4.8. With support for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect that we launched today. Download it right now to experience several new features that allow you to work faster than ever. Check this video for a quick run down of Ultimaker Cura 4.8: New features Arrange models feature improvement. An improved arrange models feature allows you to quickly organize all your CAD models on your build plate. Previously the automated orientation of multiple parts did not always utilize the full buil
    4 points
  4. Introduction Marco Polo, Christopher Columbus, Vasco da Gama, Amerigo Vespucci, James Cook. What do they all have in common, and what could they possibly be doing in a post related to 3D Printing and Generative Design? The obvious answer to what they have in common is that they were all explorers, many of them from an era known as The Age of Discovery. The reason they relate to this post is that Generative Design has been created for “design explorers” and it provides a method for navigating a route through to the discovery of the kind of design outcomes the like of whi
    4 points
  5. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    4 points
  6. I don't think you can easily cast in HDPE or PET, that normally requires injection moulding. Most casting products are two-component epoxies, polyurethanes, polymethylmetacrylates (=PMMA, as in plexiglass and dental models), silicones, and similar. So they are often quite thin liquids, and then chemically cure into hard plastic or silicone. PMMA should be food-safe when fully cured, otherwise they couldn't use it for dental applications in the mouth. I don't know about fully cured PU. Most platinum-cured silicones are also food-safe, like in commercial baking moulds. The basic proc
    3 points
  7. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    3 points
  8. All related files can be downloaded from Thingiverse now with following URL. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4655216/files
    3 points
  9. Mmmmm, weird. This is either a partial clog that incidentally happened at the same time you've switch to 4.8, or an error when importing the profile. Check the filament size, because it looks like you have 2.85 instead of 1.75 in the machine settings. If you still have 4.7 installed try to print something small sliced with 4.7, the typical x,y,z cube for instance. If it prints ok, it's the filament size in 4.8. If it prints all wrong, clog Or who knows
    3 points
  10. As the owner of two UM2+, I find it admirable that Ultimaker is improving their older models instead of just leaving them in the dust, lol. Any chance of making a retrofit kit to make older UM2's compatible with the UM Digital Workflow?
    3 points
  11. I finally converted my printer to DXU, but I am not using the original DXU print head, instead, I make use of the original head with modification, so that I can keep using the metal parts. I found this modification design from Chat room, however, the author only released the STL files and some them seems not work well. Therefore, I based on the original head dimension and reference to the STL file, I redraw all of them with Solidwork, modified some key area, attached the photos of my build as well as the parts photo exported from Solidwork. This head now used for over 100 hours
    3 points
  12. That is what I said, in a few more words. Let's not forget, Ultimaker is a company and we need to be lucrative otherwise we cease to exist. We try to do this while staying as close with our customers as possible, but that doesn't mean we can do everything. I think this forum and the community as a whole proves among other things, that we like to stay close to our customers and that we listen to them. Even our developers are directly engaged with our customers. So as I said and you concluded, somewhat alternative products exist and it would take a lot of resources to develop and maintain a
    2 points
  13. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
    2 points
  14. No extra Raspberry Pi! No extra PSU! No extra firmware and keep it up to date! No extra "company" to ask questions if having problems! No extra I don't know what, but I'm sure there is more...
    2 points
  15. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  16. I'm confused as to why the 2+ is replaced by the 2+ Connect without an upgrade option for current owners. If this is true, then I'm out. I'll keep using my Ultimaker 2+ until it dies, but I'm not buying anymore Ultimaker products. I bought Ultimaker as upgradability was in the sprit of their products. Make it upgradable and let me keep this printer current or I can jump to a manufacturer who does.
    2 points
  17. Das sind die Default werde aus der Firmware (eine etwas ältere da ich die zu Hand hatte) Für UM2 also 25Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.0 #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.5 #define DEFAULT_Kd 100.0 Für UM2+ also 35Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.03 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.50 #define DEFAULT_Kd 70.0 Da ich schon seit einiger zeit auf Duet Board umgerüstet habe, und da scheinbar das "Auto Tune" ordentliche Werte geliefert hatte (ich weis es gar nicht mehr genau, aber wo her soll ich diese Werte her haben) Habe ich folgende Werte eingestellt:
    2 points
  18. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
    2 points
  19. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    2 points
  20. I know what you mean and the reason is, that the line width is very small, therefore it is not printed by default. But there are several options, not sure which one is responsible for that, but try: Filter Out Tiny Gaps -> unchecked Compensate Wall Overlaps And this could also help, when you print the outer wall before inner wall: Outer before Inner Walls Can you upload your STL or project file here, then we can also check it.
    2 points
  21. First I should warn you that there are something like 100 machine settings that aren't shown in these dialogs unfortunately. You can include CAD files of your printer to make it prettier in the GUI for example. But it should be enough to get good prints for most printers. Also document what you did well because sometimes when you upgrade Cura (rarely) you get messed up profiles and the solution is to blow away all user files (like printer settings). Next, "creatware" is a fork of an older version of Cura. Cura version 15.X I think (15 refers to 2015). Cura 2.X came out that ye
    2 points
  22. Sorry to hear so. It made sense to enable an option to upgrade an UM2 to an UM2+, or an UMO to an UMO+ because 'only' a few essential components were renewed. But the idea of upgrading an UM2+ to an UM2C was really pushing the boundaries of a reasonable product. And honestly, we felt it wasn't. It would create too many complexities, and it could never be a 'plug & play-upgrade'. If you rather have a DIY printer, there are plenty of options out there. The philosophy of upgrading our products is still very much alive though. Take a look at the firmware, which is updated frequent
    2 points
  23. Ahlala ! CURA n'arrive pas à "trancher" le magnifique objet que vous avez mis tant de temps à modéliser avec Sketchup : WTF ? CURA c'est de la m%@&e ! Le problème vient plus surement de Sketchup que de CURA, explications : Retour aux sources. Avant de parler de Sketchup et de CURA on va parler STL. Les fichiers STL décrivent des objets par leurs surfaces externes. Cette surface doit nécessairement être fermée et définie par une série de triangles. cf. : https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier_de_stéréolithographie Prenons pour exemple un des objets les plus simples que vous aurez
    2 points
  24. The yellow buttons are just the three extruders. That should be fine. The tools on the left side are all plugins. First step is: click on "Marketplace" (upper right corner) and check if the "Scale Tool"-plugin is installed and activated (!).
    2 points
  25. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  26. This is the wrong replacement pattern. Use this and Cura will not have to prepend its own preheat sequence for your extruder: M109 S{material_print_temperature} Similarly, include this to stop Cura from having to preheat the bed for you: M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
    2 points
  27. And there is also a different Z stage. All things considered, where it made sense to enable an upgrade from UM2 to an UM2+, upgrading to an UM2+C doesn't make sense. It would have been really cool though, but unfortunately not possible. As mentioned, even the frame would need to be modified.
    2 points
  28. Maybe service is just expensive and that is why chinese printers are so cheap. Just something to consider 😉 Anyhow, I also need my house to be painted. Why haven't you done so already!? I don't want to pay an actual painter to do it, because it's really expensive! All joking aside; You can just post issues on github. We will have a look at it. We can't guarantee that we will be able to fix it, because we always get more issues than we can handle. In some cases we simply can't reproduce the issue, which also makes it really hard for us to fix it (since we then don't even know where to sta
    2 points
  29. Thank you for sharing your message and wild assumptions. If you want to get in touch with us you can do so via our community, Github or our ticket support system. If you decide to go for any of these routes, I would like to ask you to pay attention to your tone of voice when you're asking for help from people who have no obligation to help you. We are willing to help though, all users of Cura, regardless if you have an Ultimaker or not. Asking nicely helps. We're all just people.
    2 points
  30. You'll be happy to hear then that an upcoming firmware release will allow you to enable a firewall, blocking all incoming traffic from the local network. This is full, 100%, network security, whereas passwords are definitely not. By enabling this firewall, users are forced to print either via USB (physical security can prevent access to this if needed), or by using the Digital Factory, which has full user management and access management in place (especially if you're a company on an Ultimaker Essentials subscription). So we take security very seriously and are doing continuous imp
    2 points
  31. It's a known issue that Cura is super slow to start if the X drive is used (if i recall correctly). Since that doesn't happen often it never got priority to get fixed.
    2 points
  32. I recently got a new bondtech feeder and changed the heater(25w) and sensor on my um2 to the ones for the um2+(35w). How do I modify my firmware to match these modifications.
    1 point
  33. If you can post the CAD model in STEP, Acis or Parasolid file format I can probably fix the model in my CAD software.
    1 point
  34. well, you'll find the RAFT option under Build Plate Adhesion. Then you can change the settings that match your needs. I don't understand why you want the raft to be a few mm thick though. One layer should be enought.
    1 point
  35. Short answer - yes it is the reason.
    1 point
  36. Starting to understand some cura limitations here - if I uncheck print thin walls it only does two layers ... For the sake of my test I can go with a solid. There is no complexity in the Fusion drawing, it is simply a box with thin walls that Cura clearly can't handle. I can confirm that if I send as a solid and print single perimeter with no infill and no top layer that it actually gets it right - but the colour of the box becomes red 'Shell' .. in preview on the corners front I need it as per above - square - so that I can assess any impact of ringing / je
    1 point
  37. Hi Dan, the two big issues in 3D-printing are: the prints don't stick to the bed (while printing) the prints stick too good to the bed (after printing) For first tips you should regard to the following post: https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/21620-tip-bed-adhesion/ What kind of printer / print bed do you have? Using a heated glass bed, you should regard it's free of grease (finger prints) and as clean as possible; a thin layer of glue or an adhesive sheet of some kind also can help. For me, PLA just prints fine on clean bare glass, hea
    1 point
  38. It seems that the RawMouse plugin has no permissions to open the USB device: ERROR - [RawMouse] RawMouse.RawMouse._run_hid [243]: Exception while reading HID events: open failed
    1 point
  39. @Torgeir So, the UM2C has the same dimensions on the top as the UM3. The UM2 is 1cm less deep, the width is the same as UM3/UM2C
    1 point
  40. Actually the nozzle being hot or not won't matter at all, the expansion is very small. Furthermore, you only have to do it once. Mesh bed leveling helps in case the bed moves a tiny bit because of the springs and there is no need for nozzle to be hot at the time. The bed, yes, but not the nozzle. Other slicers don't preheat the nozzle if I tell them not to. Cura seems to add the M109 command before even processing the pre-print G-Code. So far I have resorted to editing the GCode every time and removing the offending part, but I want to find out whether that can be done through the slicer
    1 point
  41. Ich habe ein Bahnbetriebswerk im Massstab 1:87 konstruiert und mit meinem Ultimaker 2+ gedruckt. Nachstehend nur ein paar Bilder. Mehr, siehe hier:https://www.stummiforum.de/viewtopic.php?f=180&t=171433
    1 point
  42. Je langsamer die Laufen, desto besser wird das für die Druckqualität. Deshalb auch große... Soviel Wärme fällt da auch nicht an. Nur muß man es im Auge behalten. Hintergrund, warum langsam und wenig: Kunststoffe, selbst PLA, wenn auch nur sehr verhalten, weißt ein gewisses Schrumpfungsverhalten auf. Wird meist als Warping beobachtet. Dies tritt auf, wenn der heiße Kunststoff in teilbereichen schneller abkühlt, als der Rest (vor allem die Ecken, die von 2 außenseiten Wärmeabfuhr erfahren können...) und somit ungleich anfängt zu schrumpfen und somit Spannungen aufzubauen. Je mehr Luftbewegungen
    1 point
  43. @Jls667 I have the fan available here. It's in stock and available to ship today. In regards to how the fan relates to the active leveling...the active leveling works on a capacitive sensor. If your fan cable is pinched or damaged, it can create electromagnetic interference while the fan is running, and that interference can disrupt your active leveling readings and cause active leveling to fail. I've got a video here on how to install it:
    1 point
  44. Wenn noch Garantie drauf ist, schick das Ding zurück zum Händler. Oder wende dich an IGo3D.
    1 point
  45. As far as I know, currently not. The mobile app only notifies you about the start and the end of a print job, but not about an error. Ultimaker is aware about that, so I am sure they work on a solution.
    1 point
  46. Indeed they didn't, because they don't release software at all. The cura installer is actually the only bit where a profile can get deleted, apart from a manual deletion from the interface. Cura will only ever delete a profile if you explicitly told it to do so. I don't have a low regard for third party printer users. Far from it. But we simply have far too much work on our plate as is. Cura is being developed by a relatively small team and being used by hundreds of thousands of users, using hundreds of different configurations. The only way how we could do something
    1 point
  47. Well not used ultimakers tough pla for a while. But i like it! It has a very smooth top surface. My toilet handle broke the internal ceramic holder after many years and because all hardware shops are closed....had no choice works like a charm! Made it a bit thicker just in case and forgot to taper it. But as i printed it solid i just sawed the end off. Job done! No acetone or sanding here. Solid as a rock!
    1 point
  48. My issue turned out to be the formatting on the SD card. The first card was corrupted and the second one wasn't formatted correctly. Reformatting solved it, but it took a lot of trouble shooting to get there. Hope that helps!
    1 point
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