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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/24/2019 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    Hello, here is one of my last projects. It`s a mini shredder, made of PLA. We tested the shredder with gummy bears, paper and popcorn. 😉
  2. 4 points
    Here my project from the last weekend. A wall clock, controlled by an ESP8266 microcontroller. The ESP controls a LED stripe to show the current time which is fetched regularly via Wifi from an NTP server. The clock contains 6 segments for the ring and 60 parts for the minute indicators. Red shows hour, green the minute and blue for the seconds. Now I only have to find a nice place to put it on a wall.
  3. 4 points
    Because I can make a plugin that fixes some of your issues, but I have no say about the UI of Ultimaker Cura? Would you rather I don't make an alternative GUI? I don't understand responses like this. Note that what the plugin does would not have been possible with a plugin in previous versions of Cura. Ultimaker have made the Cura UI more plugin-friendly. Now you have a choice, even if you don't like the default option.
  4. 4 points
    I pushed v1.5 update on GitHub. It is mainly to replace the 19mm short bearing with a long one for better reliability. Changes: 1. Both X and Y bearings are now both 35mm long, same as the original UM2 printhead. It is more stable and reliable. The previous 19mm Y bearing had a few downsides: only misumi sells ones with sufficient build quality, they wear faster than long bearing, etc. To make proper space for the long bearing, I had to increase the X offset of nozzles from 18mm to 19mm, and the housing from 35x35 to 38x38. This resulted in 2mm less X print area but it is well worth it. 2. New fan shroud design. Blower fan changed from 3015 to 3510. Homemade aluminium cover by soda can at the bottom. The fan shroud can be printed with lower temp materials such as modified PC (heat resistance of 90C). 3510 12v fan is easier to source with more consistent stock. For those of you who already bought the 3015 fans, there is still a fan shroud variant to use 3015 with v1.5. 3. Hotend fan changed from 2510 to 3010. Not really for performance improvement. 3010 5v is much easier to source and cheaper. 4. Lever dock is simplified with only one tab. This gives the lever freedom to sweep back at full speed, not limited by the travel speed of printhead. Nozzle 2 falls back to it's position with optimal momentum. 5. BOM is hence modified with the new fans and bearing. The hotend, spring and bolts stays the same. 6. Firmware update for v1.5 moved to dedicated repository. I may or may not update the assembly images because people can still figure out how to assemble v1.5 based on the original images. I'll upload the jig and instructions for making the aluminium bottom cover later.
  5. 3 points
    Google for "simple led circuits" and then select "images". This shows the setup. Always keep in mind: LEDs do need a resistor to limit current, otherwise they burn out! Usually the voltage over a LED is between 1.6V (old red LED) and 2.5...3V (blue and white LEDs). The recommended current for a nice illumination can go from 1mA to 10mA usually, depending on the LED. Don't come near the maximum current through the LED, always stay well below 50% of the maximum. So you need to look up the specs of your LED, or measure them: - normal voltage over the LED= Vled = ? - recommended current through the LED= I = ? What battery or charger are you going to use (I would recommend a 5V or 9V charger): - sourcevoltage = Vs = ? And then calculate the resistor as follows: 1) resistorvoltage = sourcevoltage minus LEDvoltage = Vr = Vs - Vled 2) resistor = resistorvoltage divided by LED current = R = Vr / I 3) power dissipation in the resistor = current multiplied by voltage over resistor = P = Vr x I Example: Imagine this are the specs: - Vled = 2.2V (=voltage over LED, from the specs of the LED) - Vs = 5V (source voltage, as usually found in chargers for charging USB devices or smartphones) - I = 5mA (=recommended current through LED in the specs) Then: 1) Vr = Vs - Vled = 5 V - 2.2 V = 2.8V 2) R = Vr / I = 2.8 V / 5mA = 0.56 kOhm = 560 ohm (take the closest available standard value) 3) P = Vr x I = 2.8 V x 5mA = 14mW (then add some spare: triple this value and take the next higher available resistor series, so it does not get hot: for example take a resistor of 250mW, a very common series) 4) add an on-off switch. That is all. You values may be somewhat different, but this is the principle. Basic scheme But do recalculate the resistor value according to the specs of your LED and your sourcevoltage or battery voltage!!! It may differ. Usually the long pin of the LED is the plus-terminal. And the pin connected to the "dish" inside the bulb is the minus-terminal. Usually, but check it. It only works if you connect the plus-terminal of the LED to the plus-terminal of the battery or source, not vice-versa. Plastic LEDs like these can be grinded or reshaped with a Dremel and cutting disk, as long as you don't hit the wires and chips (also not the very thin wire on top of the chip). But they do get fragile. I used to do that in model trains and cars, to make them fit. But don't cut/drill into modern white LEDs. Typical resistors. The color bands indicate the resistor value. Google for it. That is all there is to it. Use a battery charger with short-circuit protection. And/or add a mini fuse yourself. (All pictures via: "Google --> Images". Credits to the original photographers/designers.)
  6. 3 points
    Question: what nozzle diameter does your printer have? If I were to guess, I would say 0,015748". Is that a nice number to have all widths depend on? What is the wall width if use 3 extrusion thicknesses? 0,0472441". Do you really want to think in those numbers? 0.4mm and 1.2mm respectively sound like much more workable numbers. I have never seen a 3d printer that is based on imperial units. 3d printers are intrinsically based on metric units. This may be different from CNC machines, I don't know. But Cura is designed for 3d printers.
  7. 3 points
    I learned recently that the USA isn't using the Metric System due to pirates, even though it was officially placed in the law. The more you know, and how small events can have big effects! 😉 @MIO This forum is hardly the place to have that good old discussion about Imperial vs Metric and which system is best, and @alan-bc specifically mentioned that he wasn't looking to start a flame war about switching. This thread is about CURA, and if having the option of switching to Imperial units helps @alan-bc and other users in their everyday use of CURA and their UM printers, then I'm all for it. I have literally zero knowledge of the amount of work that coding such a thing would require, plus testing and such, but, from the user point of view, I would agree that it would be useful feature for those who are in countries that use Imperial units. After all, we can already chose the language and the currency units to use, and the software let me put it in French and the currency in $, for example, without a fuss.
  8. 3 points
    Hi everyone, thank you for all your messages and our apologies for any inconvenience the latest firmware may have caused for you. It is important to know that we take your troubles very serious and are working hard on making a new version that would be safe for everyone to use. When it is ready it will be tested, and then tested again, and then we'll make sure you will hear about it as soon as possible. There have also been a few suggestions to take this latest firmware down. While it is undeniable that it has caused some issues for some of our users, the full percent of users plagued by them is not that high as what may seem so in this thread. Higher than usual, sure. But there are (luckily) more users who remain issue-free. This may not mean much to you when you do have issues, but I wanted to elaborate on why it was not pulled offline yet. Unfortunately, releasing a newer, tested and stable version will take a little bit longer than originally shared (referring to an earlier communicated timeline of one week). There are a few things we can do in the meantime. If the issues you are having are creating an unworkable situation, it is probably wise to install an older firmware version. User @gr5 has shared instructions in this thread. While the instructions may not appear difficult for the experienced user, it can be a dangerous area to dive in if you've never done something like it before. You have to be ESD safe and there is risk of bricking your machine if you do it wrong. So if you are unsure, (or if you are sure you just do not want to do it yourself), we recommend getting in touch with your reseller. They definitely can install new firmware for you and return your Ultimaker to you. If you have an Ultimaker S5, unfortunately it is not possible to install new firmware yourself. Our sales partners can. Please get in touch with them if you prefer to have the previous firmware version installed. Since (almost) all Ultimaker S5s should still fall under warranty, there should be no additional costs. Some other tips that may have gone unnoticed: - I read that a Cura connect reset and factory reset may fix one or two bugs - If you are struggling with your XY calibration, make sure to manually push your filament in all the way before your print starts. The firmware retracts it too far which ruins your filament flow. - If I catch any more solutions, I will update this post accordingly. Again; our apologies for the inconvenience. Thank you @CarloK for the help you have been providing here. We're working on a solution and you'll all be the first to know when it is available.
  9. 3 points
    The Sidebar GUI plugin available from the Marketplace fixes most of your points.
  10. 3 points
    Hey all ! New here and to 3d printing in general, thought i'd post up one of my first semi succesful prints. Mostly came out ok, had some warpage on the bed because I thought I could get away with a simple brim and not a raft, which seems to almost never work on my Tevo Nereus. Also had several layer shifts, not sure how to fix that yet. Still learning. All in all its still functional and working great !
  11. 3 points
    It’s unfortunate to see this release has been causing issues for some users. Reported issues, including the ones in this thread have been all been noted and our firmware team is working on solutions as a priority. A hotfix is being prepared that we will release in the upcoming days. So far, the contents of this will include: A fix for updating when the printer has no network connection Extrusion issues with X/Y calibration procedure Correcting incorrect screen orientation after reboot
  12. 2 points
    If you use a 9V battery, and you put the LEDs in series, it will work with the same resistor value, but just give a bit less light. But usually I would prefer to recalculate the resistor: voltage over resistor = battery voltage minus first LED voltage minus second LED voltage. Vr = Vs - Vled1 - Vled2 For an educated guess, that would be: 9V - 2V - 2V = 5V over the resistor (as a crude order of magnitude). Use two identical LEDs. And then calculate the resistor, based on the recommended current through the LED. If it is a high-efficiency LED with low power-consumption, the current could be 1mA. Then the resistor would be: R = Vr / I = 5V / 1mA = 5KOhm If it is a medium efficiency LED, with a current of 5mA, it would be: R = 5V / 5mA = 1KOhm For a LED of 10mA: R = 5V / 10mA = 0.5KOhm = 500 Ohm. This value does not exist, so we take a nearby very common existing value: 470 Ohm, or 510 Ohm. For a very old LED, or a brighter LED that requires a bit more current of 20mA: R = 5V / 20mA = 0.25 KOhm = 250 Ohm. This does not exist, so we would take 240 Ohm or 270 Ohm. For the existing resistor values, Google for: E24 resistor series Among the images in Google, you will then also find the color codes. If you are not familiar with electronics, avoid very high power LEDs like those used in spots or in traffic- or billboard signs. These may get very hot and require special cooling and mounting features. Tiny low power LEDs like in keyboards, stereos, etc..., don't get warm if a correct resistor is used to limit the current to the recommended value. If you want to buy new LEDs, search for low power high efficiency LEDs, because: 10x less current = 10x longer battery life. Search for 1mA or 2mA LEDs, provided they give enough light for your purpose. This may sometimes be very hard to guestimate from the specs, so you may want to try various types. It is a long time ago since I bought LEDs myself, so I can't say what is on the market today. About 20 years ago a typical low power high efficiency LED of 3mm diameter consumed ca. 2mA, but that is 20 years ago... And LED-voltage was 1.65V for red LEDs, 1.9V for yellow, 2.2V for green. Hence my 2V guestimate, which is usually okay for red, orange, yellow, yellowish-green. However, blue, white, and "traffic green" LEDs (=blue chip with phospor on top) usually are around 3...3.5V. But different values exist. Look them up in specs of distributers like RS-components, Farnell, etc... Mr. Google is very helpfull today (credits to the original photographers): However, solder the wires, instead of wrapping. Or try these boards for experimenting: they are very handy, but watch out for short-circuiting wires: With this board you can try lots of different resistor values and LEDs in a short time. I used them a lot. Note: LEDs have virtually no internal current-limiting features: if you apply a too high voltage without external resistor, or if you short-circuit the resistor by accident, the current can get very high and immediately burn out the LED. Don't ask how I know... :-) So, *always* use a separate resistor for current limiting, and never rely on the very unpredictable internal resistance of batteries, power supplies, or LEDs. Further, when plying the leads, use a plier to grip the wire close to the LED, and bend it around the plier, on the side away from the LED. So don't put too much mechanical stress on the plastic housing of the LED. Pulling hard on the leads of tiny 1mm LEDs could cause them to break, since the plastic is not very strong. Here too, don't ask how I know... :-) These are a couple of very good educational Youtube videos on this subject: - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bozb8t6d1Xk - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yo6JI_bzUzo - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NfcgA1axPLo - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VSpB3HivkhY This reply is a bit longer than I intended, but fortunately I can type very fast. Also, I realise this is a bit off-topic concerning 3D-printing, but I think it is close enough. It may also be usefull for people who want to modify their 3D-printers to mount some indicator LEDs in it. For example you could mount a LED on the bed heater or on the (cold side of) the print head and nozzle, to see when it is on. Carefully calculate resistor-values (Ohms) and power-ratings (Watt).
  13. 2 points
    The fix has been tested internally at Ultimaker, and will be part of Cura 4.1. Thanks for testing!
  14. 2 points
    I have been racking my brain for months trying to deal my prints always being about 0.2 mm outside to outside or so bigger and hole diameters around the same smaller than what the CAD/STL dimensions are. This doesn't always matter but for designs that need to fit real world dimensions it can be an issue. Ideally all parts printed would be the correct dimension for holes and outside dimensions as designed in fusion 360 and allowing the design to be used for 3d printing and other real world uses without needing to compensate for slight printing over-extrusion on the outer walls and skewing your design sizes. Most people seem to calibrate a 100 mm by 100 mm outside to outside dimension object. That is not ideal though as hole dimensions will be smaller when printed as the outside to outside measurement assumes that a line is exactly 0.4 mm when printed on the outside wall which is not correct in my testing and experience. To calibrate the X and Y dimensions, I print a 90 degree L shaped design that is 4 mm wide by 110 mm in X and 110 mm in Y length. I designed some lines on top of the surface that are exactly 100 mm apart in both X and Y dimensions. For a perfectly calibrated FDM printer, If you were to measure from outside to outside of those raised bumps, you would be measuring slightly over 100 mm because the measurement should be 100 mm to 100 mm center to center. I don't expect a 100 mm by 100 mm cube to be 100 mm to 100 mm outside to outside because that assumes that wall lines are exactly 0.4 mm when printed which isn't the case with FDM printing. The outside wall line doesn't have any filament to push up against on the outer side so it expands more than 0.4 mm. You could try and adjust the line width to be exactly 0.4 mm but that would not work well at all. You wouldn't fill the voids between filament lines enough to have good adhesion and the lines would be more visible. From everything I read, It seems that it is normal to have a single 0.4 mm line width to be bigger than that. Because of this I calibrate to be 100 mm center to center of the lines on a 110 mm length print. I have tried to compensate using a few methods for the line width on the outside of the outer wall being slightly bigger but none of them work for all scenarios or they require extra design adjustments to make up for it. 1. Designing all my stuff with a around 0.2 mm larger holes and 0.2 mm outside to outside (0.1 mm per side) smaller size for non hole outside faces. 2. For already designed STL files that don't have FDM tolerances built in, scale the part size bigger if the holes are smaller than actual dimensions. For outside dimensions that need to be the correct precise size, I scale the part smaller or do a lot of sanding which sometimes is not possible if the design is very complex. If you need both holes and outside dimensions to be accurate you are in trouble as you have to pick on or the other and do sanding if you scale it bigger or drilling out the holes. Cura's Horizontal Expansion can do the same thing as scaling the size of it in the slicer but either of those do one of 2 things... either fix holes and expand the outside dimensions or... fix the outside dimensions and make holes smaller. I finally found the setting in Cura that does exactly what I need. It moves the outside wall (realize that the inside of a circle is also an outside wall) toward the inside wall by a certain amount. This allows me to have an exactly calibrated 100 mm to 100 mm line (center to center) and adjust for the line being a little over 0.4 mm causing the outside wall to be over-extruded by somewhere around 0.6 to 0.1 mm per side (Depending on your printer and filament size setting accuracy and flow settings). The setting is called 'Outer wall inset'. You give it a positive value to move the wall inward toward the inner wall by this amount. I set it to around 0.1 mm on my prints to get the outside dimensions and hole dimensions to be exactly how I designed them in Fusion 360. For most prints from thingiverse I leave that feature disabled because most designers have tolerance built into prints to make them fit together. There are some that are not though like some sockets I found on thingiverse. For my own future designs, I am designing them to the actual real world dimensions that I want and then use the 'Outer wall inset' to adjust for line width being slightly bigger on the outside wall's outside facing surface. Hopefully this makes sense to someone as I am not the best at trying to explain things... I was very excited to find this setting though because I have searched on this issue for a long time and never found anything mentioning using this setting for this purpose. The only thing I found on 'Outer wall inset' seemed to indicate it is used to make up for setting a line width smaller than the nozzle size (which Cura automatically adjusts) to get the outer wall to overlap the inner wall more. Then again... I am relatively new to 3d printing (about a year or so)... I have certainly been wrong many times in my life and been in many situations thinking I understand something when I really don't :).
  15. 2 points
    You're welcome, we're happy to help where we can. I'm happy you managed to perform the XY calibration. The flow sensor did not trigger because it is in the feeder, not the print head. Even though it was not printing, that is because it was retracted too far. Not because it was not feeding any filament. So the flow sensor/ feeder was working correctly, it just received the wrong command that made it retract too much prior to the calibration. Hope this helps, and also gives you some more insight in how the flow sensor works 🙂 Not entirely relevant but perhaps interesting to know: The flow sensor is not activated during the first 2 layers of a print because of small height differences and changing pressure in the nozzle could easily result in false positives. It is activated from the third layer, where the flow became more consistent/predictable. At layer 3, when something is preventing a proper flow/feed of the filament, it will trigger then. This should still be fast enough to prevent any big problems and reduce the loss of time to a minimum.
  16. 2 points
    Let me make clear i really appreciate the effort you put into such plugin. It probably takes a lot of time and it really adds value to Cura 4.0. But i try to make an statement to the Cura UI designers that are aiming for "easy" use instead of "advanced" / "practical" use. Again i appreciate your plugin and certainly will use it. Thank you for that.
  17. 2 points
    Try using Connect Infill Lines? Might do the job??
  18. 2 points
    My understanding is that there are many grades of aluminum but only MIC6 grade is flat and stays flat. But after you heat it and cool it for months it starts to warp. Worse than the glass. ALSO the aluminum wasn't for PLA or most other materials - only a few of the new materials work better on aluminum. I could be wrong about these things - I'm really not an expert. Ultimaker doesn't like to release something unless it works very very well and consistently. I think they have learned their lesson about announcing things early.
  19. 2 points
    It is straightforward to add accel and jerk settings for bridge walls and skins. Do you really need separate A & J settings for the upper bridge skins or will one pair of A & J values be good for all of the bridge skins? I don't mind adding those settings and if you use my releases they could be available soon but the Cura devs seem to have pretty much given up processing contributions so I can't say when (or even if) the new settings would be available in an Ultimaker release.
  20. 2 points
    You have to realise that after forking out over £6k for a 3D printer i would like the supplying company to value my custom and offer timely solutions to problems as they arise.
  21. 2 points
    Thank you for all the effort you guys put into this new release of Cura 4. Beside all new technical features, which are great, the new interface is not. Everything looks designed as of it needs to be "easy of use for every moron in the world". But i hope Ultimaker can imagine most of their customers are not businessman in three-piece suit who like to 3D print with only three mouse clicks away. No we are engineers who want to tune endlessly to get the best out of our 3D printer. An compact and "technical" design fits within such demand. Please think about the following recommendations i would suggest: Get rid of all the useless space. I want to focus on the project NOT on a Marketplace button i will barely use or "step by step" tabs that make no sense at all. The print setting are the most value thing to work with. It's needs to be tuned for almost every project. Make this an fixed pane as in Cura 3.6 and move it to the right full height. Give the slide bars for scrolling thru the layers an accessible place and next to each other. I hope this is something to look forward in an upcoming update Thank you
  22. 2 points
    Gr5 Not to be argumentative and yet; it is “highly” probable and very likely that the percentage of owners/end users and businesses active on this forum is a token percentage; who knows; maybe it’s 0.1% which would equal 100% based on your sampling. Furthermore; I personally speak with a couple USA distributors that without reservation share that they too have the same trouble getting element of urgency support as such attempt as able to satisfy the customer in house. Having shared this; I too feel that the Ultimaker Team is far less connected to the end user, particularly when there is an issue than they want all to believe.
  23. 2 points
    Il faut que tu sois entre les deux, la feuille ne doit pas être bloqué, mais que tu sente que ça gratte. Et puis il faut qu'elle soit assez relevé pour que tu puisse passé la feuille. Après tu verra avec l'expérience, une couche trop écrasé = sous extrusion et la bourrage de la ligne. La matière sortiras comme elle peut. Et s'il n'est pas assez écrasé = décollement du matériaux. Des images sur google illustre mes propos. Je ne connais pas Alfawise, mais une fois ce réglage fait,n'hésite pas pendant l'impression de la première couche de peaufiné/nivelé manuellement le plateau. Pour un réglage plus poussé tu peux utilisé une cale mécanique de 0.1 ou 0.2 et en fonction de ton pas moteur Z tu fait tes réglages. Perso je ne l'utilise pas. Et encore plus loin tu peut utilise un micromètre une fois que tu à imprimé un stl de nivellement. Un grand et un petit cercle du même centre avec une ou deux largeur de ligne et tu peux les raccordées en croix, genre un "peace" mais avec un deux cercle au centre. La température plateau n'est pas à négligé comme beaucoup de chose en impression 3d. Je n'imprime que rarement du PLA, mais il me semble que si le plateau est trop chaud ça ce décolle. Contrairement à l'abs. Une fois la première couche maîtrisé, il faut maîtrisé la température avec un bon débit. Puis les rétractions, déplacement et enfin la vitesse.
  24. 2 points
    Okay guys, it's time to get your red/cyan 3D-glasses out! :-) I tried making a few anaglyphs (=red/cyan 3D-pictures) of a 3D-model. These 3D-images were hugely popular in the nineties, but I haven't seen much of them lately. They give a better understanding of the internal structures of a model, like watermarks; and give a better perspective and feel of depth. Also good for microscopy images of cells and fine structures, where the 3D-effect is important for understanding. They are reasonably easy to create in a 3D-editor: - In the 3D-editor, shift the model to the left of the screen, in perspective mode, by using the "Pan" function. This is the view that your right eye would see. Save this view as a picture, and name it "right-eye-view", or so. The 3D-editor should be in a real "architectural perspective" view mode, not a technical "ISO-perspective" with parallel lines but without perspective. It is the real perspective that makes this work. - Shift the model to the right on the screen. This is what your left eye would see. Save this view as picture and name it "left-eye-view". - Do not rotate the picture on-screen, only shift using the Pan-function. - It is best if the background is pure white. - The red glass is on the left, the blue glass is on the right (think of politics: red=left, blue=right). Actually, the "blue" glass should be a intense dark cyan, not real deep blue. And the red glass should be a deep pure red. - Red text or images are invisible through the red glass, because everything is red anyways; you can't see the difference. Only cyan (the opposite color of red on the color circle) is visible as black through the red glass. So, we need the left-eye-view to have a cyan color, to be visible in the red glass. - Idem for cyan: cyan images are invisible through the cyan glass. But red images show up as black. So we need the right-eye-view to be red on the screen, and appear black through the glass. - In an image-editor capable of layer-editing (e.g. Photoshop, GIMP,...), load both images in different layers, in a new picture. - Make the left-eye-view bright cyan, by setting the Green and Blue channel's output levels in the Levels-dialog to maximum, thus: R,G = 255 dec, or FF hex, or 100%, whatever notation your editor uses. Leave the Red channel untouched. - Make the right-eye-view red, by setting the Red channel's output-level to maximum. Leave Green and Blue channels untouched. - Set the top layer of both layers to "Multiply" mode, so the layer below shines through. This gives the composite red/cyan view. - Now shift both images to the center of the picture, and correctly align them for a nice 3D-effect, when seen through the red/cyan glasses. - If the areas that exactly overlap each other are in front of the model, the model will seem to sit behind the screen (see my examples below). - If the areas that exactly overlap are in the back of the picture, the model will appear sit in front of the screen, and you need to focus in front. - So you can move the model from behind the screen to in front of the screen, by shifting the red and cyan layers in respect to each other. - It works best with monochrome images, but it also works with very desaturated colors. Bright colors do also work, but only if they are ca. 90° separated from red and cyan on the color circle, thus yellow-greenisch, and purple-blue. So, landscapes with fresh spring-green and with a desaturated cloudy sky also work. - On a good screen and with good glasses, there should be not too much "halo" images, where the wrong color shines through the glasses. - It works with renderings with and without black edge-lines, and to my surprise it also works in inverse images. - You may need to lean a bit forward or backward (25...40cm?) to get the best effect. See some of the tests: Model behind the screen, opaque. Model in front of the screen. Model behind the screen, transparent. Model behind the screen. This gives a good view of the internal watermarks and rulers, and of other openings. Very pale model, in front of the screen. This works also, to my surprise. Model in front of the screen. Same model, but in inverse colors. This one is more prone to "ghosting". This is just a technical model, a keychain of it. But for really artistic models like statues and buildings the effect should be way more impressive.
  25. 2 points
    I haven't heard anything about a new printer, although that doesn't mean anything. But you can't compare a Prusa with UM, the features alone don't matter if you want to print reliably. But yes, the Prusa is 1/3 of the price, but you get what you pay for.
  26. 2 points
    You really have to go through the resellers. UM won't hear your pain unless the resellers do. For example you could call them every day or you could tell them you want to down grade until the firmware is fixed or you could insist you return it to them and have them downgrade it for you. It really takes a lot of complaints I think for the pain of end users to filter through the resellers, through the distributors, and finally back to Ultimaker. I don't think UM realizes the scope of the problem. Or maybe I'm completely wrong and it's only 10 people in the world who have issues with the upgrade and UM realizes this and they will fix this at some point. But right now my impression is that UM doesn't understand how big the problem is and most people are just downgrading on their own. I think if they knew how big the problem was they would have disabled the 5.2 upgrade 2 weeks ago.
  27. 2 points
    I was able to successfully convert my UM2 to a UM2+ then a UM2+ Mark2 with magnetic docking second head. Now I have hacked in the UM3 print head !. cool now I have a Mark2 system with quick change UM3 print cores ! I totally destroyed the UM3 print head PCB lol. I had to remove all IC's and resistors form the board, then I "hot wired" the CORE connections to the main cable header lol. LED's do not currently work, but they will soon show the active extruder, only 1 color though. Capacitive Z sensor is non operational since I am using the Original UM2 electronics coupled with Mark2 firmware. I started off by going off the deep end buying the UM3 electronics etc. then I found out that all I needed to do was use everything I already had. at first I wanted the autoleveling, RGB core LED's etc. Anyway, this is very simple to do if you don't mind killing a UM3 print head 😉 and already have Mark2 operational 🙂 Here is a quick video showing the Mark2 Docking sequence adjusted to hit the nozzle shift lever bracket. Mark2 Print core swap Enoy, Dave
  28. 2 points
    Right now, that's how Ultimaker Cura behaves. I have an alternative implementation of the wall gap filling in my Cura releases that doesn't shake your printer to death. My releases (which can be installed alongside the standard Cura) can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Sorry, only Windows and Linux are currently supported.
  29. 2 points
    @ultiarjan said he had the same problem and could see that the right core had retracted the filament quite a bit. The workaround was that when it starts printing with the right extruder, left the lever on the extruder and slide the filament in all the way and then let go. It seems to me you could even do that earlier on while it's printing with the left extruder.
  30. 2 points
    Bonjour, juste pour faire un petit retour sur mon problème. Niveau longueur extrudée j'ai toujours le problème mais qui finalement je pense n'en est pas un. Pris de rage j'ai complètement refait la hotend à neuf et donc viré l'extrusion "DM ACCESOIRIES" (remise du corps d'origine + bloc olsson + buse neuve + coupleur teflon neuf). Résultat, impression de nouveau égale à celle de mon UM2 d'origine, et aucune sous extrusion. La longueur extrudée n'est toujours pas correcte, vu que ça fonctionne j'ai décidé de ne pas changer les e-steps et laissé ceux conseillés par Bondtech. Le problème ne venait pas de la. Ca en reste pas moins étrange ! Mais bon comme je suis un peu adepte du "temps que ça marche, touche pas à ça p'ti con ;)" ... Merci quand même pour vos réponses et conseils
  31. 2 points
    https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/23996-da-clumsy-noob-discovers-a-way-to-hot-pull-pva-midprint/
  32. 2 points
    l'humidité dont il s'est chargé( surtout du PLA) sort sous forme de vapeur et fait des microbulles à l'impression... C'est encore plus flagrant quand j'essaie d'extruder des nouveaux filaments en PLA avec des débris de vieux prints broyés. La phase de déshydratation est essentielle, si elle est mal faite, on a du filament soufflé à la mode biscuit apéritif...
  33. 2 points
    100% agree with that, in fact there should always be an easy way to revert to previous version for just this sort of issue. I think having to dismantle the printer to get back to working software is a major failing in Ultimakers processes. Having said that many thanks to gr5 and the community in general for helping, but the manufacturer (especially of high end products like this) should not rely on community help to get its users out of problems it created.
  34. 2 points
    Mise à jour: Grâce au scotch, j'ai enfin pu effectuer une impression complète d'un support circulaire. La couche de maintient extérieur a tout de même essayé de se redresser mais j'ai pu la rabattre avant le prochain passage de la tête d'extrusion. (zone monocouche avec "fente") L'état de surface me semble un peu bizarre; Trop de chaleur à l'extrusion peut-être. Merci pour vos conseils en tout cas.
  35. 2 points
    Bon alors.. Pour la laque: "Elnett fixation forte" fonctionne très bien.. les autres c'est aléatoire... Dimafix ou dédié, sont plus appropriés. Le nettoyage: "Benzine rectifiée" jamais essayé... Chez moi, lavage à l'eau bien chaude avec produit vaisselle, puis assèchement à l'acetone et/ ou ethanol pur, ou isopropanol suffisent normalement... La calibration du plateau indispensable, mais je ne pense pas que ce soit ça... Il fait relativement "froid" dans ta pièce, dont le print refroidit trop vite et se rétracte aussitôt posé. Je suggère de fermer partiellement , mais pas entièrement, ce n'est pas de l'ABS, la machine (facade avec un film plastique, un carton, un plexi) pour éviter l'arrivée d'air trop froid... A gratter aussi... Et à ce moment-là, tu pourras même baisser la température du plateau de 5°
  36. 2 points
    Hello Community I think I have a quite simple question but unfortunately no answer. Is it possibel in CURA 4.0 to modify the color in the mode "Preview" => "Line type" => "Color Scheme"? Currently the Top/Bottom-Layer is represented in a kind of light yellow. The infill is represented in let me say a kind of less light yellow color. As we are all aware about the fact that millions of colors are available I do not understand why this extremly similar colors have been choosen for representation by CURA. E.g. why not follow the PRUSA Slicer approach? I really looking forward for an answer. Kind regards, Carsten Schröder Horneburg/Germany Cura Approach: PRUSA Slicer Approach:
  37. 2 points
    Je suis passé sur la 4 j'ai pas de soucis dans la vue layer. C'est en effet en majeur partie une update cosmétique avec une nouvelle interface, au début j'aimais pas plus que ça, maintenant je m'y suis habitué.
  38. 2 points
    Quick tip: If instead of removing the folder named "4.0" you make the folder empty (so remove the files inside the folder, but leave the folder there), you will get a "clean" Cura 4.0 but leave your older Cura configurations in place for older versions of Cura to use.
  39. 2 points
    Since we only ever fill the threads with complaints and blames about bugs and errors, the positive should also be highlighted. Bringing the firmware from UM3 to the same code base was certainly not easy. And it was even more difficult to ensure a smooth update process without bricking the UM3. Therefore I would like to thank all developers and testers for their work! 👍 👏 Please keep up the good work.
  40. 2 points
    Sanbrother sells parts for DXU on ali.
  41. 2 points
    Hi, if you are using Linux and feeling like trying the cutting edge of Cura development then head over to https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 where you will find copies of my current Cura installation. They are based on the Cura master branches + my own additions and tweaks and will contain all known bug fixes that have been merged to master. These are not AppImages but an archive of an installation built on a Ubuntu 16.04.4 system, just unpack and then execute cura/bin/cura.sh. Supplied with absolutely no warranty, YMMV.
  42. 1 point
    No shame on you. We do not always have the time to fully explain things. Further, I am working in an educational institution (university), where we are by law required to: "provide education, research and service to the community". Often I also have to provide explanations and guidance to collegues and PhD students about computers, software, and laboratory equipment. So I am used to it, and it fits within my job. Also, I enjoy sharing knowledge, so I don't mind doing this at all. :-)
  43. 1 point
    The 3mf is a project file, but I mean a custom profile, like the predefined ones (Fast, Normal, ...) You can change the settings as you want and then save this profile for future use. So I see no need to modify the JSON file directly. With profiles, you have also the advantage to select between different profiles to fit your needs, depending on your model, shape or whatever.
  44. 1 point
    I'm working on a plugin that changes the new GUI in Cura to be more settings-centric by adding back the concept of a sidebar. If you can't get used to the floating panels in the new GUI, there will soon be a plugin for you. While rearranging things into the sidebar, I am also taking the chance to rearrange some other bits: move X-ray from the Preview tab to the Prepare tab in my opinion it makes more sense to detect/show errors *before* slicing reunite the Open button with the Toolbar Fitts's law suggests keeping distances between small items smaller; I just dislike having UI elements in all corners of the UI. add the same menu and sidebar between Prepare and Preview so things don't jump around The plugin is currently in the state of a proof-of-concept; there is currently no way to switch between the Recommended and Custom sidebar, and there is no way to change the materials/printcores in the sidebar. When all standard functionality is in its new place I'll post a prerelease here before publishing the plugin to the Marketplace. If you can't wait, you can check out the code here: https://github.com/fieldOfView/SidebarGUIPlugin Things I'm considering: integrate the action panel into the sidebar move job name into sidebar move standard view items into view options/legend area The plugin is a spiritual successor to the Compact Prepare Stage plugin, though it was written from scratch with a different end-goal in mind. That plugin will not be developed further. Update: a beta is available below:https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/26014-sidebar-gui-for-cura-40/?do=findComment&comment=229800
  45. 1 point
    I've already put the total cost next to the filament length for 4.1 (you're not the first to ask for it!)
  46. 1 point
    In my point of view next step for UM3 are the feeders. I have already made some test at 20 microns layer some time ago, and i was told by the Ultimaker team that i will stress too much the feeders. So that will be the next logical step. Maybe.... Ruby Print core + New Feeders. PS. Maybe stepper with higher precision.
  47. 1 point
    Thanks Tinker ! no plans to sell any kits, it's not very practical I guess. The only thing I needed was 2 sets of the 2+ extruders which I had from doing the originall Mark2 conversion. and 1 UM3 head with the cores. I just printed the 3D model from the Git hub for the Nozzle shift lever bracket. used the location from the UM3 cad model to drill my UM2 side wall for the bracket. I totally gutted the UM3 head lol. I removed all of the IC's and the resistors, then I manually jumper wires form the core contacts up to the main cable header. and of course the Z- sensor is non operational. ( super easy to level the plate anyway) At the end of the day what I ended up with is a : UM2+ Mark2 with quick change CORES 🙂
  48. 1 point
    Freecad thinks your model is broken...
  49. 1 point
    Merci pour le lien, j'avais raté ce sujet. Je testerai à l'occasion et je te dirais ça.
  50. 1 point
    GR5 I do not want to offend you, but it seems to me that you are not pursuing a good goal - to say that one is better than the other, and give an example of the testing that was. You are an adult and should understand that these are two different approaches to cooling. I will explain to inexperienced people (like you) UM2 (which has been tested) uses cooling on one plate, that is, 1 nozzle through this plate heats the other nozzle. DXU uses a separate cooling system for each nozzle. There is a separate radiator. Such a system costs UM3 and S5, and the temperature of the first or second nozzle is not connected to each other. I think for a full understanding, you can just say that the cooling system costs from UM3 for cooling radiators I recommend Sunon fans Gm0502PEV1 selected 1 means flow rate 1 strongly 3 weakly there is also a fan Sunon 1 cm thick but pay attention to 1 at the end. And yes, I am very grateful to everyone who worked on the project MARK2 and DXU for the work done and the work.
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