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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/2019 in Posts

  1. 10 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 4 points
    WARNING: The website, www.3dlac.nl does not belong to our company and we have no link whatsoever, there have been customers who have told us that they have bought there and do not send anything. we have communicated to the web, the possible crime that they are committing by using a registered trademark, in addition to defrauding users. We are going to take the appropriate legal measures JOSE ANGEL CASTAÑO CEO 3DLAC
  3. 3 points
    Ultimaker 42, the answer to everything! 😋
  4. 3 points
    We really enjoy the mobile app notifications for started/completed/aborted print jobs in Cura. I recently noticed that there is even a notification for an improperly configured print job (wrong core/material). What we would REALLY like is a notification for a print job that has been paused for whatever reason - particularly jobs that have run out of material. This would be so helpful and it seems, to my naive mind, would be very simple to implement. Can this be done via 3rd party plugin now?
  5. 3 points
    The more you know, the faster you would understand the motivations behind such a decision. Users are not able to disable active leveling because of the size of the build plate in the Ultimaker S5. On previous generations you could do it manually, but this was a more forgiving process due to the build plates being smaller. With the larger build volume users may want to print larger objects, which require even longer unattended operations. With the expanded material portfolio, users are now also able to use a larger variety of materials, which may require more delicate bed levelling too. So all this considered: It is crucial for your user experience that your bed is properly levelled and have good adhesion. The most reliable way to ensure good levelling is to have the Ultimaker S5 do it. Every time. That's one part of the printing process that we took more control over, to ensure reliability.
  6. 2 points
    I still have my first UM2 that is still use often and works as it used to back then (in 2014 already)
  7. 2 points
    So far, this is where I am on this project. I will have to adjust colours as I add pieces. Trying to figure what I will do to get this done is taking a lot longer than I had hoped. But it will be an evolving process. This is the preliminary paint job on the back walls and floor. These are the smaller parts I have painted as well. Again, will probably have to adjust the paint job once it starts getting put together. The arrows point to 'the other side' of the objects themselves as they had additional detail to view. Personally, I like the eyes in the skull crossed, looking up at the axe cleaving into the skull. 😁 Just to show how optimistic I was about the books. I had spent a lot of time thinking up jokey book titles for them. But the book is less than an inch in height. So, oh well, 'tis whut it 'tis........
  8. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  9. 1 point
    First look at your part in layer view to be sure these crazy movements aren't part of the gcode. But that is unlikely. More likely your um2 is getting errors when reading the SD card. 1) try a different sd card. Buy one if you don't have any spares. 2) try cleaning the sd card slot. I had to take my um2 apart and clean that slot very well. I found a tiny hair in there (eyelash maybe) and after cleaning the random motions went away. You might be able to get away with just compressed air and not disassembling but that hair was very stubborn for me. Before you disassemble anything note that if you slide the bed up and look inside there is a semi clear part with a hole in it - you can see that if you put a small screwdriver in that hole and push it pushes the main control knob off. That was the only tricky step for me. once you expose the nut you can remove the nut and remove the screws that hold the cover on and remove the screws holding that small pcb down.
  10. 1 point
    I think so, but I haven't tried it. The gcode flavour has nothing to do with firmware updates, but UM2 will probably never get a new firmware anymore. No I don't know, but should be configured in the material profile on the printer. If not then the printer calculates these values from your given printing temperature. Probably not possible, so switch to Marlin and set it in Cura. Yes Use and try the ones I posted, I think they should work, if not nothing bad happens.
  11. 1 point
    The desk is in a sorta final placements before being glued down . All of this is just placed into position, but want to think about it and maybe move a thing here or there or add a thing or two, or not..... All lab equipment/beakers and such are 3D printed.
  12. 1 point
    Hello @KHANtech, I have implemented the Infill X/Y Offset and Infill Line Directions settings for gyroid infill. If you want to try them out you will need to install one of my future Cura builds (Linux and Windows only). My next release which will probably be later today will have these changes. You can find my releases at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Here is a cube whose gyroid infill has been rotated 12 degrees... I still don't understand your 3rd request about scaling in Z.
  13. 1 point
    This can happen if you designed it in inches and not mm. Can you check that?
  14. 1 point
    Vielleicht ist das das was du suchst? https://yop3d.de/rest-mengen-manager/
  15. 1 point
    Did anyone try this? https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2993354 Is the NFC Chip the same in both printers 3 and S5?
  16. 1 point
    It looks like that circular part has thin walls. You could try enabling the print thin walls option but that doesn't always do a good job. Alternatively, reduce the wall line width enough so that the walls on the circular part are created, enable the overlap compensation and set the minimum wall flow to something like 50. Hope this helps.
  17. 1 point
    Yes PVA and Nylon are very sensitive. In a hot summer with a lot of humidity a PVA spool can absorb moisture within a few hours. And if you say it feels soft and sticky, then you have found the root cause. Ultimaker says, the humidity should be lower than 40% or something like that, but I have the feeling this is still too much. So try to keep it as low as possible. A sealed bag alone is not enough, you should put some silica gel packs too into the bag and do not forget that these small packs don't last very long. So for a long term solution you should buy something like that: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOPJ0HA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_pGpDDb61T4H25 which can be regenerated. But these solutions, regardless if a sealed bag or a box, only helps to keep a good dry spool, dry. To regenerate your wet spool, you have to active dry it. Heat up your print bed to 70°C and put the spool on it. Cover it with a towel and leave it for several hours, overnight or even longer. Then your spool should be dry again. If you want to put it in an oven, be carful that ovens often overshoot the target temperature! There are also a lot of DIY dry box solutions on thingiverse and it doesn't matter which solution you prefer, important is, that you have a solution to keep your PVA spool in a dry place also during printing.
  18. 1 point
    2 Bowden tubes plus Ultimakers access to large catalogues of exotic materials for FFD printers makes this very unlikely to be SLA me thinks. However an ultra easy to use super reliable affordable midsized advanced and efficient SLA printer from Ultimaker would also be very welcome! ...sorry was reading the bottom of page 1! duh!
  19. 1 point
    Try using standard nylon hardware: there do already exist thousands of different things: screws, pins, nuts, clamps,... These will be much stronger, have a stable size, require almost no post-processing, and in the end be much cheaper. Maybe these will fit, or only require minor changes to your models to fit? In Belgium and the Netherlands, Essentra Components (previously Skiffy) has a good range. But also RS Components, Farnell and lots of others do. https://www.essentracomponents.com/en-nl If you want to print it yourself: - If you print it horizontally, it will be by far the strongest, but not cylindrical. Then it will only be half a cylinder, and probably have a flash or elephant feet at the bottom. - If you print it vertically, expect overextrusion, lots of blobs and deformations, and a very weak model that breaks easily, especially for high-temp materials like nylon. And expect it to wobble during the print causing a deformed rod, and likely fall over. I am not saying it is impossible, but for very small objects, you will have a hard time sorting these things out. If you use standard injection moulded nylon parts, you don't have these problems. Typical deformations of small, vertically printed items: Insufficient cooling due to the nozzle staying on top of the tiny area, so it does not solidify. Cones are 20mm high x 20mm diameter. Lowering temp does reduce this effect, but also reduces layer-bonding: not a problem in PLA but for sure a problem in nylon. Insufficient cooling, overextrusion, strings and blobs in vertically printed models (ca. 20mm high, printed at different temps and speeds). Less deformations but some flanges in horizontally printed models. So this is what you should expect.
  20. 1 point
    Oh eh, le marché unique, ça te cause? J'ai acheté chez Didier, pas plus tard que la semaine dernière et il est aussi efficace que Makershop et son catalogue de pièces détachées est plus complet. Rappel: Je n'ai aucun lien avec lui de près ou de loin. Uniquement sur ce forum 🙂
  21. 1 point
    I'd like to see prefixes set by Printer and Material. Setting the prefix for the printer under machine settings, and Material under each material type, with overrides in the individual material's settings.
  22. 1 point
    For the geometry, I used a mixture of 3DS MAX 2016 for the basic geometry and 3D Coat for detailing, distressing and adding other details. In full disclosure, I did not make the skeleton parts that are in there (arm) and will be there. But I did greatly modify them. Printed on the S5 and UM3E in PLA. Painting is being done with brushed on acrylics over a primer. The acrylics are a combo of washes and dry brush.
  23. 1 point
    Du müsstest die "Temp Magic" deaktivieren Gibt zwei möglichkeiten, direkt in deiner Drucker config deaktivieren installiere das Plugin "Printer Settings Plugin" aus den Marketplace und deaktiviere "Temperatursteuerung der düse" glaube ich heißt es Gruß
  24. 1 point
    It is a safety feature to prevent starting a print when possibly an object is still present on the build plate, this would cause mayhem. For the above reason we never created a way to overrule this feature but more requests are coming in, so perhaps in a future firmware update... How daring are you to make changes on the printer itself? Since you mention SSH I assume you have some Linux knowledge? On the printer is a configuration file where you can make low level changes, but there is no official support for this modification. In the file /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json there is at line 149: "PRINT": ["print.printProcedure.PrintProcedure"], Change this to "PRINT": ["print.printProcedure.PrintProcedure", "cleanup_step": "false"], THIS IS NOT AN OFFICIAL SUPPORTED CHANGE! In fact, I don't have a printer here and didn't test it working.
  25. 1 point
    dxp - thanks! I think I have it pretty much dialled in now. I designed a model of my own, set bed temp to 60 dec C, used a brim, adjusted level one more time whilst the bed was hot. We have a passable result. Anyway, I'm reasonably pleased given that this is my first time doing any of it... Thanks to all who have shown an interest.
  26. 1 point
    And I switched active levelling back on 🙂
  27. 1 point
    sketchup is not great at making 3d models but you can do it if you follow these tips. Actually #9 is the most common problem and takes second to fix but you could have issues 4 through 9 as well. Unlike sketchup, most cad programs don't let you do ANY of these errors (#4 through #9): https://i.materialise.com/blog/3d-printing-with-sketchup/ Follow the above link and read all that. It looks like a lot but it's actually pretty simple and straightforward. Also in the future - for next time - I'm told that when using sketchup always use these 2 plugins: cleanup3 (may be 4 now) Solid inspector. Both of these plugins remove any problems with the model unseen by the eye and turn it into a solid model.
  28. 1 point
    I don't know why I keep writing here but it feels like the right thing to do incase it helps anyone. I did switch nozzle 1 over to the other side, which has increased my dual build area. The offset in CURA doesn't apply to the gcode is creates, just to the disallowed areas (I think there is a setting in the json file to make this true or false). I think I will keep tuning the build area, there's a few mm all round to gain. The only thing I can't solve is to get the area in CURA to be shown on the correct part of the glass in the software. But it's the right shape, and it prints fine, just shown too far to the left. It was trivial to calibrate, I created my own gcode as tinkergnome suggested for the calibration, and set offset in X to 0 on the printer and it calibrated easily. There is no clashing between bowdens or wiring. And I have removed the fans from the second extruder, for my purposes I don't mind if the cooling is substandard on nozzle 2. I also found that the default start Gcode was retracting extruder 1 back twice, but pushing the filament back forwards only once resulting in the first 20 seconds of printing giving out no plastic. And the problems I was having with the initial priming poop catching on future nozzle priming I solved by moving the initial priming poop. I also copied the UM3 style and made it dump plastic right up close to the glass, now I don't have to monitor the first 20 minutes of every print as it doesn't have loose poops flying all over the place. Thanks again @tinkergnome and @yyh1002 If anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask!
  29. 1 point
    ...sorry, I'm on vacation several thousand miles away from where I could test anything on the printer, not even which firmware version I have on. I am afraid that you need to ask to the guy who is responsible of firmwares at Ultimaker @Daid (well, if he didn't correct such a problem after one year of time I wouldn't know what to expect... it's quite embarrassing...). BTW I am not a big fun of connection manager... it's normally one of the first things that I disable on my linux machines.
  30. 1 point
    Hi, hughwyeth, taking apart the original lever is no big thing, if done carefully. At first, the cross-shaped clamp at the "lever"-side should gently be disconnected (be careful not to break the tabs!). I used a flat screwdriver blade (the one of a victorinox swiss knive worked best for me) put between the two halves and gently pressed the two opposite tabs with tweezers, just enough for them to disengage the two halves at this point. You should take care to not cant the parts to much. Then the axle (press-fit) of the bearing should be disconnected by using a flat screwdriver between the not-worn side of your photo above and the bearing. The inner part of the axle (at part 1968) should slide off the outer part (at part 1967) where the bearing sits on. My first attempt was successful while working with care; disassembling the second lever, I broke one of the spring-parts because of insufficient patience... I hope the description is understandable and useful, unfortunately I have no pictures for clarification. Regards
  31. 1 point
    Personally I save the whole project as a project file in Cura. And when I need something like the print before, I just load the project and have all the settings. You can also work with custom material profiles and Cura profiles to save the settings, but it is more complicated and not always update safe. A Cura project file works every time.
  32. 1 point
    Aha !? ich habe die Version 1.3.10 am Laufen. Ich nutze noch den Filamentmanager, der soll mit der 13.11 u.U. Probleme. Mit war nicht klar, dass Display ETA mit Version 1.3.11nicht läuft . Im Zweifel würde ich den Entwickler von Display ETA über Github kontaktieren, der hilft in der Regel zügig. Der Filamentmanager berechnet zuverlässig das verbleibende Filament auf der Rolle. Darauf möchte ich nicht mehr verzichten. Dummerweise wird der nicht weiterentwicklet. Bis es eine Alternative gibt, werde ich daher bei der Version 1.3.10 bleiben .. Gruß, Dirk Oops, wie ich gerade sehen konnte, wird der Filamentmanager wohl doch noch weiterentwickelt.... Mein "unverzichtbares", nicht weiter entwickeltes Plugin ist PrintHistory. Ich "berechne" damit immer die Restlaufzeit des PTFE Couplers ...
  33. 1 point
    D'après ce que j'ai lu, vous trouverez la commande d'annulation si vous allez à la rubrique "Regler". Tu as regardé là-dedans ? (Traduit avec DeepL.com)
  34. 1 point
    Removing the CR-10S printer could well be sufficient to clear this. Not sure. Living on the "bleeding edge" I get these messages quite often and normally just wade in and remove from the config directory the profile/extruder/printer definition file(s) it's bleating about.
  35. 1 point
    Yes, use it all the time on my S5
  36. 1 point
    debugging (diːˈbʌɡɪŋ) n (Computer Science) a. the process of replacing known bugs in a program with unknown bugs 😄
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Vertical slots or horizontal slots? If they are horizontal slots you can play with the "horizontal expansion" parameter and set that to a negative value. Also make sure the slots are visible in cura preview before printing anything. If the slots are on the bottom layer this is the hardest layer to control to that precision. You will need to mess with the "initial layer horizontal expansion" and level the machine extremely carefully (to 0.02mm accuracy potentially which is very difficult). But it is possible to create 0.1mm slots. Showing us a picture of your model may help us understand better.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    I know you're struggling with it, but when you see the finished model, you almost can't believe it. Don't be impatient and look forward to the incredible result.
  41. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  42. 1 point
    Yes but you are going to tear your adhesion sheet very often anyway so it's not as wonderful as you might think. Also you can print on both sides of the glass if you want. If you use PVA glue I'm not sure that it makes a difference which side you print on. I've printed on both sides of the glass on 4 of my 7 UM printers (so far) because after a year or so I usually manage to chip the glass. It might make a difference but I haven't noticed.
  43. 1 point
    BTW, you can save yourself some time and filament by switching to gyroid infill at a much lower density than what you are currently using. It will still be stupidly strong. I also recommend enabling the optimise wall printing order setting.
  44. 1 point
    Ich kann da Breakaway von Ultimaker empfehlen. Damit druck ich ohne Luftspalt zwischen PLA und Stützdach. Nach dem Druck lässt sich das einfach ablösen. Hat auch den Vorteil das du das Bauteil direkt benutzen kannst und nicht darauf warten musst bis sich das PVA aufgelöst hat. PVA benutz ich nur falls ich das Stützmaterial sonst nicht entfernen kann. Oder wenn ich mal was mit Nylon drucke. EDIT: Um etwas Material zu sparen Drucke ich oft nur das Stützdach aus Breakaway. Die Struktur dann einfach aus dem Druckmaterial, meist PLA.
  45. 1 point
    you could have just used google: Note that I sell these kits in my store but for USA customers only: thegr5store.com
  46. 1 point
    This is the prime tower to swipe the nozzles. You can turn it off if you want - search for tower or prime and you will find the option.
  47. 1 point
    I am certain this has been requested before. I just want to enter my vote for either a 1.75 filament model or an option to convert an Ultrimaker model. The last time I shopped for a new printer (1 year ago) I ended up with a Prusa MK3. I have no regret as it has perform very well. However, I would love to have an Ultrimaker with the dual head. There are certain designs where the dual head would be ideal. To Ultrimaker, I would think offering such an option would definitely increase your sales as I am certain there are many potential customers like myself that are looking for this option.
  48. 1 point
    This is a real question, and I ll say the reason is the low adhesion on the build plate resulting of the 'angle-dragging effect in the tiny circles'. If you look at the filament on the build plate when a tiny circle (diameter < 4 mm) is printed, you can often see that the filament is 'dragged' by the latest filament exiting the nozzle, which is going in a direction sligtly different. As the circle is made of tiny lines with a little angle between them (the meshes), the dragged effect is cumulative as after the first tiny angle there is almost at once a new deviation in the same way ... and so on So the filament is moving 'inside' the circle and if the effect lasts there is a non adhesion of the circle. You have not the same effect when there is an angle like in a square, as the new direction (at 90° form the preceding one) is lasting for a while. The filament in the new direction has the time to cool and stick to the plate, so the angle dragging effect occurs in this case only once during the first 0.1-0.2 mm and after it doesn-t move. It is the same for the larger circles as the length of each mesh (and/or the angle between meshes is smaller) in the circle gives the time for the adhesion to prevail over the angle-dragged effect. So the solutions would be : 1) lower the speed for the bottom layer, a kind of 'brutal force' solution 2) via a plugin lower the speed in the 1st layer for each movement in a wall with an extraction length below a certain value, indicating that the mesh is really tiny and there is a risk of angle-dragging It would be fine if the team implement the second solution in CURA
  49. 1 point
    Yesterday by mistake found out how to place brim or skirt around any area on the print. This is really helpful to increase the strength of the supports to the bed, or to make specific areas get a stronger grip to the bed when using warp-loving materials like abs, greentec, etc. Also very easy to use, and you can make the skirt/brim smaller and make the classic 'Mickey mouse ears' used on abs to avoid warping. How to do it: If you have any doubt use the FFF file I left on youmagine https://www.youmagine.com/designs/custom-brim-skirts-on-simplify3d Edit: @peggyb shared how to do this on Cura:
  50. 1 point
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