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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/14/2021 in Posts

  1. I'm working on a new plugin that adds a simple measuring aid to Cura: In its current incarnation, the tool lets you pick (and drag) two points and shows the distance between these points. A test-version can be downloaded here: MeasureTool Download the file and drop it onto the buildplate in Cura as if you were opening a 3d model. Then restart Cura as instructed.
    7 points
  2. The beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.9 is here. This release contains a bundle of bug fixes and feature improvements increasing software stability, and further simplifying and streamlining print preparation as you continuously strive for first-time right results.  What’s new? The Z-seam is now clearly shown in Preview mode.  This ensures that you will know whether the seam will be sufficiently hidden in the end product. This will also indicate the starting point of the print. Thanks to BasF0 for contribut
    5 points
  3. Hi all, We've got new firmware for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect. It is a really nice update which contains some great work from the team. You can enjoy greater integration with the Digital Factory, and we've tackled a number of bugs that were lurking behind the scenes. Check out the release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017358580-Ultimaker-2-Connect-firmware-release-notes Also, check out the video 🙂 Cheers!
    3 points
  4. So I'm driving across Texas on a lovely day and I stop for gas. It happens to be a full service station and the fella comes out to pump the gas. I've been staring at the same scenery for 5 or 6 hours and I mentioned "Wow, is it ever flat here." to which he replied: 'Yep. If you stare in any direction long enough you'll see the back of your own head." I like that one. Science in the middle of nowhere.
    3 points
  5. Experienced the same problem, after installing Cura 4.8.0 on MacOS Big Sur 11.1. Under 'Preferences/general' I enabled the "force layer view compatibility" setting (just a guess) and did a restart. Then layer-view worked, but now x-ray didn't display anything. So I disabled above setting again and did another restart. Now everything works. Maybe just a restart would have solved it too.
    3 points
  6. Note that the Ultimaker 2+ Connect cover WILL NOT FIT your ultimaker 2+. 1) I recommend not using ABS - not sure which property you care about but PLA is typically and tough PLA is tougher. If you want higher temp filament there are other choices (depending on temperature) such as nGen and PETG that are easier to print and don't smell so horrible as ABS. 2) splitting is caused by bad layer adhesion. You can simply lower the fan. A lot. Experiment with the fans - in TUNE menu, bring it down to 0% and then up very slowly until it starts spinning. Note the minimum % w
    2 points
  7. What is the purpose of this post here? If you don't like the plugin, don't use it. @5axes has no obligations to you. Most spreadsheets I used present me with a dialog that lets me select the separator when I import a CSV file. And by "most", I mean all that I can remember using. The link to the rant you posted has no relation to this issue or this forum, so to me it only comes across as link-spam.
    2 points
  8. When the build plate is lowered after the printing is finished, it's ususally impossible to see the final result through the in-built camera. I put a mirror on the left hand wall. Voilà!
    2 points
  9. I stumbled across two companies now when i looked for other stuff and maybe it helps. First Extrudr, which has 3 different types. They seem to be in Austria. Second Unicofil (never heard of them before), which seems to have exactly what you want. They are from Germany. But maybe you can get it somewhere shipped to UK. Greetings
    2 points
  10. I recently modelled this, and printed it on the ultimaker 2+. It prints with no support. I designed it in the software Zbrush. Currently I am working on a much larger version - I have split the design into 7 sections, and will then glue and assemble it 🙂 I have made the file availible for free download here. I do my modelling via live streaming on twitch and youtube live, the links for checking it out are here. If anyone has a go at printing the design i'd be keen to know how it turns out.
    2 points
  11. yess, that's the point 😔 I'm dreaming of an analog computer since over 25 years looks nice on the first view first little test-cylinder got printed without explosions or a burning printer the gcode-file of my model comes down from over 200MB to almost 70MB (6,607,713 lines to 2,048,472) I'll have a look at the acr-settings in my marlin and will do a ~20h testprint I'll check if there is any way to get it done with one click like SolidWorks-Plugin does - just i high-quality here you see the diffrent resolutions: right is 'coarse' - 0,05788cm
    2 points
  12. Psst! Don't look now, but someone mirrored the Cura logo!
    2 points
  13. When I first moved to Cura 4.7 I noticed a fall in print quality. Curves and arcs were very blobby, and I didn't know what had happened. About the time that 4.8 came out I read a blurb someplace that explained that the Creality printers weren't capable of handling the fine resolution settings contained within the Cura machine definitions for the Creality printers. The main problem was with the Mesh Fixes | Maximum Resolution of 0.05. An adjustment to 0.4 made a huge difference in the quality around curves and arcs. The number of extremely short line segments was reduced and my printer/
    2 points
  14. commenting on wjbdesign post above: People think cranking up the resolution in CAD will make a print better but if there are too many triangles in the STL that means there are even more moves in the gcode and the firmware in printers can only look forward about 16 moves and has to be ready to stop and can get overwhelmed if there are too many moves in the next 8mm of printing at any given moment and this can cause the printer to stutter (slowing down and speeding up too much) and this can cause ugly prints. Only one possible cause among many. So yes don't have too many triang
    2 points
  15. That's what a "slicer" such as Cura is used for. First you extract the 3d model(s) from the zip file, and load them into the slicer. Then you tell the slicer how you want the model(s) to be printed, and the slicer creates a gcode file for you.
    2 points
  16. Your model is probably not manifold. Are you willing to publish the STL file here? if not there are lots of model services on the internet that check your model. Also what CAD are you using? Different types of CAD result in different solutions. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" an
    2 points
  17. You can use the post-processing plugin "Change At Z". That plugin does have some issues (the "By Height" option does not work well with adaptive layers or Z hops - they confuse it) but the "By Layer" option will work fine. The second issue is that "Change Bed Temp" does not work with "Target Layer Only". That shouldn't be a problem with what you're trying to do. So under "Extensions" select Post-Processing and Modify G-code. In the dialog that comes up select "Add a Script" and pick "Change At Z" from the list. Within the Change at Z options select "By Layer" and then "Target
    2 points
  18. First thing I would try. is to cut the material and remove it from the "Bowden" tubing. Cut the material at the material bay inserting point, then I would un-clip the tube from the extruder end and remove the material from the tubes. I would then, put another material of the same type into a different material station bay, load it and make sure the printer identifies it as the correct material (same as data sent by "CURA"). Then wait a few minutes to see if the print starts again (give in 10 mins min). If the printer doesn't resume, it may need p
    2 points
  19. Hi gr5. Looking at the picture of the white model the skirt looks pretty good and so do the loops of the model itself. They look like they welded together so the height couldn't be too far off. On the other hand, the first layer skin is a mess. Scouty, gr5 made an in-depth video on bed adhesion that covers most issues. For me, I clean the glass with IPA, and then give it a dusting with Aquanet Super Hold hairspray, and I level with a piece of parchment paper. I get consistently good starts to prints. Since gr5's video will cover adhesion, I'll go over some things about leveling (setting
    2 points
  20. Oh I found this: if using blender - here's how to fix your model I went into edit mode with the object in Blender 2.83 and pressed "a" which selects all faces / vertices / edges, depending on what select mode you are in. The entire object should be highlighted. I then went to "Mesh" (see images), went to the "Normals" section, and selected "Recalculate Outside". This probably will not fix any edges that are not merged, but it will fix the faces that are inverted on the object.
    2 points
  21. If you have a heat gun with a narrow nozzle and can shield the print core frame so it doesn't warp, you can focus on the nozzle area and gradually work outward. It looks from your photos as if you did not get much material on the heater or sensor cables. That is a win. If it is mostly on the heat block, slow and steady, you should manage to get everything off. John
    2 points
  22. Ach... das habe ich vor zwei Wochen hier schonmal ausführlicher erklärt und vorgeschlagen. @ThK - wir drehen uns hier im Kreis, wenn Du die (doofen?) Antworten nicht beachtest und immer wieder die gleiche Frage stellst - ich bin raus...
    2 points
  23. I have a Win7 desktop that I use for older software. I installed Cura 2.3 and then came across the SmartAvionics version (of 4.6?) that he ported to 32 bit. You can go HERE on Github and scroll down to the download link. It works alright. The user interface is also from 4.6. The screen fonts are hard to read. All the recent settings are there. If I switch back and forth between printers it will crash once in a while (but so does 4.8). The fella that released it used to hang around here but hasn't dropped in for a while. If you have questions about the version you can probab
    2 points
  24. In Cura there is a thing called "Use Adaptive Layers" in the experimental section. You can search for it in the search bar or go to preferences and check the box to make sure it is easily found. I have all my settings exposed to make finding things easier meself. Hope this helps 🙂
    2 points
  25. I have the 1.75 conversion kit and have used it from time to time on my S3, its easy to install on the printer but keep in mind in doing so you need to turn off the filament flow sensor or it will be thinking its run out of filament all the time so keep in mind you will lose that feature of the printer. As for software side of it, in Cura i edited the printer settings for the print core to say it's using a 1.75 and to be extra sure i added a 1.75 material profile also. Note when you edit the extruder settings that cura will when display the material profiles for f
    2 points
  26. Because STL doesn't define what the 0,0,0 point is with respect to the build plate. There are a lot of models where the point is therefore chosen completely arbitrarily. As such, cura loads the models, places them on the buildplate and then tries to find a spot for them where they fit. 3MF does not have this problem, since it does define where the origin is (it's always in the front left corner of the buildplate). I cant stress this enough; 3MF is a superior file format over STL in every single way.
    2 points
  27. I'm no expert in the UM2+, but search this forum for PTFE coupler. It is the white plastic (teflon) part inside the print head which degrades at temperatures higher than 230C. The higher the temperature the faster. When it degrades the inner diameter becomes smaller and it will become more difficult for the filament to get through. These are cheap replacement parts, just order a few. Quality differs so you might browse this forum for opinions. Both the Ultimaker and 3Dsolex parts were recommended.
    2 points
  28. First have a goal. What do you want to print. Art? Brackets? No idea? If no idea then type "kitchen" as a search term in thingiverse.com. Or type your car. Or walk around your house looking for something broken. Once you have a general idea we can then talk about what CAD you should learn. Or you can use this nice guide. All the CAD programs out there has endless and wonderful tutorials. https://www.gliffy.com/go/publish/5271448
    2 points
  29. Hallo Falco, Dies ist ein Fehler, der "häufig" am Kochfeld auftritt. Es ist die Verbindung zum Temperatursensor, die regelmäßig ausfällt. Dies können die Lötpunkte am Sensor oder das Löten zwischen dem Kontakt und der Kupferfolie sein. Wir haben an beiden Stellen Fehler gesehen. Da Sie die Steckverbinder bereits überprüft haben, ist es möglicherweise an der Zeit, das Löten am Sensor selbst zu überprüfen. Hier ist ein Bild des Sensors (PT100) am Kochfeld. Wie Sie sehen können, besteht zwischen dem Sensor und den Anschlüssen ein sehr kurzer Abstand. Aber lassen Sie
    2 points
  30. I don't think this is in normal cura but it is DEFINITELY in the MB version of cura made by our own @burtoogle and I've used this feature many times - it's very useful for me when printing above 200mm/sec. There are all kinds of bridge settings. By the way, in either version of cura, once you have the advanced settings open, type "bridge" in the settings search box and it shows you things even if they are normally invisible. Anyway here it is: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases Yeah it seems sketchy but I vouch for the guy. I've met him in
    2 points
  31. ‣ Push the collet down ‣ insert the bowden and push it in with some force ‣ pull the collet up (with some force) while still pushing the bowden down ‣ insert the clip The original clip is 1.4mm thick. I designed clips with 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm, 1.7 mm and 1.8 mm to increase tension on the collet if necessary. Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,4mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,5mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,6mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,7mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,8mm.stl
    2 points
  32. Sounds good. Get a spool of nGen from colorFabb (Netherland company). I think you'll like how it cuts with a knife as well. And it looks good. And it's so much easier to print than ABS and will tend to be 10X stronger than ABS (because ABS usually has poor layer adhesion) and it works in higher temps. But if you don't need higher temps, the PLA is the best. Oh and nGen doesn't smell bad.
    1 point
  33. ayooooooo It worked!!! I actually already had z-hop enabled but it didn't match my layer height so it didn't go high enough. Just adjusted it to be the same as my layer height and no more problems!! Greg is good. Greg is #1. Greg for president.
    1 point
  34. I use a artec eva scanner for structured light scanning, and I have used both reality capture and agisoft photoscan for photogrammetry. I have tried 2 or 3 mobile scanning app's, but none of them create good enough scans for me to use them. I am keen to try out the new linar scanning app on the iphone, but I use android and havent come across anyone with the latest iphone so I can test it out. I make relatively complex artworks with 3D scanning - I also use 3D scanning to create the start of a project, which I then detail for 3D prin
    1 point
  35. Haven't find the buton to add the smile 😁
    1 point
  36. What kind of printer did you get? How much did you pay for it? The most common technology right now is you convert those beautiful solidworks curves into triangles. Sorry. But it works pretty well. And you want a pretty low resolution because if you have too many points on the curve your printer (with it's wimpy arduino style processor) will probably freak out and stop and stutter as it tries to process too many points in too small a distance (too short of time). So paradoxically, if you want good looking curves on the final print you should have fewer points. Ther
    1 point
  37. Wenn ich einen Tip geben darf - Generell beim Konstruieren: Nimm mal 2 STLs und plaziere Sie überlappend im Slicer. Wenn du das Sliced, weiss der Slicer nicht mehr, was er da, wo sich 2 Modelle überlappen drucken soll - 2mal geht ja schlecht... Ähnliches im CAD/bei der Konstruktion.... Entweder man konstruiert exakt auf die Kontur oder man erzeugt den Körper 2× (Aussenkontur) und zieht Sie Boolsch vorher ab und addiert die eigentliche Form dann Boolsch. Dauert vielleicht etwas länger, aber die CAD tut sich, vor allem bei komplexen Konstruktionen, deutlich leichter und die STL ist nachher "sa
    1 point
  38. @GregValiant Thank you so much!! Clearly I'd been staring at the computer too long. I didn't notice that the bottom face of this piece was indeed a flipped face. I reversed it, recut the chamfer and it slices correctly. I'm irritated with myself that I didn't catch that. Thank you for the second set of "eyes". Cheers! -Peter
    1 point
  39. Sorry. I misinterpreted "off the bed". Open the Gcode file. Right near the beginning will be a line ";MINX" and one for ";MINY". If either of them is negative then that's the problem. In Cura click on the name of your printer. Choose Manage Printers and then Machine Settings. On the left there is a box "Origin at Center". Make sure that is de-selected. Most printers have the origin at the left front corner. Delta printers have the origin at center. The Home Offsets in the printer, coupled with the Bed Size in Cura also determine where a print will be on th
    1 point
  40. Morgen (nach alter Zeit😅), Naja das schaut mir eindeutig nicht nach einen UM2 aus (Rot/blau sind die Riemen) Naja du must dann den Steckplatz wählen die wo drunter stehen, PT100 ist nur die Kennzeichnung der Gruppe Aber mir scheint es das du da ein (sehr) altes "PT100 temperature sensor daughter board" erwischt hast! Wo ich 2018 auf Duet umgestiegen bin gab es die schon mit Jumper sodass dieses Kabel überbrückerei nicht mehr notwendig war
    1 point
  41. Those are the same people who regularly print at 1000mm/sec. Are your E-steps calibrated? That would be the first thing to check. You can tune the "Flow" on the fly. You might try that to work towards an acceptable finish. I've attached a little ditty I wrote. It's a Windows app (I don't know what OpSys you are using) that I call "Greg's Accel and Jerk Tool". If nothing else it's an interesting toy. Start out slow as high speeds with high Accel and Jerk numbers can cause missed steps or even belt skipping (we are talking about Creality printers after all). It
    1 point
  42. In order to use "Spiralize", the model really needs to be a solid. Spiralize then figures out where the outer walls should be, gets rid of the top, and generates the spiral path up the wall. If it isn't solid, then Spiralize can't quite figure out a path that works and you get things like below (your model) where you can see the inside path is over air and would just make a mess. Below is also a vase model from Thingiverse. You can see that it is solid throughout. It slices as we would expect but because the outer "gear" features are so close together a 1.0 nozzle
    1 point
  43. Cura 2.X isn't really supported. No bug fixes, sorry. Usually if you can't get good adhesion on the first layer it's because you don't have enough squish. Usually fixed not in the slicer but in the way you level. Is this an auto level printer? Here's a video about improving adhesion - yeah it's long but it's full of useful stuff.
    1 point
  44. During a print, I have finish the Ultimaker orange PLA ribbon and I have try to use a general PLA to finish the print, I have take the NFC from original ribbon and I have applied on the Generic ribbon, the printer has finished printing successfully.
    1 point
  45. As an aside and back to chrome paints: If you are looking at the Spaz Stix line of paints (and they have some really cool paints 🙂 ), this vid demonstrates why I do not use their chrome based paints. And, yes, I have tried their chrome. Their Chrome is to be used on the inside of the transparent body. It works spectacularly well for what they are designed for. For the best Chrome review I have found for our applications (on top surface and not under transparent plastic), this is the link to @cloakfiend's review of chrome paints. I will be trying the Molotow Chrome
    1 point
  46. Hello all, I want to share a recent project I made with S5. It has been half year since I got this machine, and I'm in general pretty happy with it. Although it does not reach to the smoothness and resolution to the SLA printer I have at home, but It's big and stable, had never given me any surprises. I especially like the material detect function because the way I have my spool placed can easily get stuck, and this feature saves my print every time. So the project is a 1/6 scale Tiger Tank turret, printed in 0.2 layer PLA. the veins are too visible so I sprayed with a
    1 point
  47. I wrote sometime ago this article and it covers the important settings: In order to print dimensionally accurate parts, we need to adjust some parameters. Each one of them helps us to go one step further, and in combination we have a perfect engineering profile which we can save in Cura. In principle, the following rules apply to any 3D printer, but some values may need to be adjusted for other printers. Some golden rules Print slow The slower the printing, the more positive the effect on dimensional accuracy. Ideally, you should print between 25-45mm/sec. P
    1 point
  48. Minor Screw Up on my side, I just noticed that doesn't work. Instead the line has to be: G0 X{prime_tower_position_x} Y{prime_tower_position_y} As it was in my original comment it just results in nothing happening at all.
    1 point
  49. True that. Switching between different materials may mean extra cleaning although my personal experience is that it is not needed. Some flushing suffices. pro-tip: there is now a timeout on the last bit of the filament loading procedure. After you have confirmed the filament is fed into the feeder, the printer will feed the filament to the printhead and extrude slowly for a minute or so. You can leave the printer unattended, and use this time-out as a flushing procedure. use the latest firmware, because earlier versions do not have this time-out.
    1 point
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