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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/01/2020 in Posts

  1. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    5 points
  2. I'm working on a plugin that wraps FormerLurker's command line version of the ArcWelder plugin originally developed for OctoPrint. The plugin attempts to reduce stutter by simplifying gcode. It analyses subsequent G0 or G1 movements that make up arcs and replaces these sequences with G2 or G3 lines. Gcode containing these arcs may or may not print well on your printer, depending on the type of controller and the configuration of the firmware. For more information about ArcWelder, read the description of the original plugin, and the discussion of realworld results. Gcode before
    4 points
  3. After a successful BETA period we are ready to launch Ultimaker Cura 4.8. With support for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect that we launched today. Download it right now to experience several new features that allow you to work faster than ever. Check this video for a quick run down of Ultimaker Cura 4.8: New features Arrange models feature improvement. An improved arrange models feature allows you to quickly organize all your CAD models on your build plate. Previously the automated orientation of multiple parts did not always utilize the full buil
    4 points
  4. Introduction Marco Polo, Christopher Columbus, Vasco da Gama, Amerigo Vespucci, James Cook. What do they all have in common, and what could they possibly be doing in a post related to 3D Printing and Generative Design? The obvious answer to what they have in common is that they were all explorers, many of them from an era known as The Age of Discovery. The reason they relate to this post is that Generative Design has been created for “design explorers” and it provides a method for navigating a route through to the discovery of the kind of design outcomes the like of whi
    4 points
  5. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    4 points
  6. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    3 points
  7. All related files can be downloaded from Thingiverse now with following URL. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4655216/files
    3 points
  8. Mmmmm, weird. This is either a partial clog that incidentally happened at the same time you've switch to 4.8, or an error when importing the profile. Check the filament size, because it looks like you have 2.85 instead of 1.75 in the machine settings. If you still have 4.7 installed try to print something small sliced with 4.7, the typical x,y,z cube for instance. If it prints ok, it's the filament size in 4.8. If it prints all wrong, clog Or who knows
    3 points
  9. As the owner of two UM2+, I find it admirable that Ultimaker is improving their older models instead of just leaving them in the dust, lol. Any chance of making a retrofit kit to make older UM2's compatible with the UM Digital Workflow?
    3 points
  10. I finally converted my printer to DXU, but I am not using the original DXU print head, instead, I make use of the original head with modification, so that I can keep using the metal parts. I found this modification design from Chat room, however, the author only released the STL files and some them seems not work well. Therefore, I based on the original head dimension and reference to the STL file, I redraw all of them with Solidwork, modified some key area, attached the photos of my build as well as the parts photo exported from Solidwork. This head now used for over 100 hours
    3 points
  11. That is what I said, in a few more words. Let's not forget, Ultimaker is a company and we need to be lucrative otherwise we cease to exist. We try to do this while staying as close with our customers as possible, but that doesn't mean we can do everything. I think this forum and the community as a whole proves among other things, that we like to stay close to our customers and that we listen to them. Even our developers are directly engaged with our customers. So as I said and you concluded, somewhat alternative products exist and it would take a lot of resources to develop and maintain a
    2 points
  12. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
    2 points
  13. No extra Raspberry Pi! No extra PSU! No extra firmware and keep it up to date! No extra "company" to ask questions if having problems! No extra I don't know what, but I'm sure there is more...
    2 points
  14. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  15. I'm confused as to why the 2+ is replaced by the 2+ Connect without an upgrade option for current owners. If this is true, then I'm out. I'll keep using my Ultimaker 2+ until it dies, but I'm not buying anymore Ultimaker products. I bought Ultimaker as upgradability was in the sprit of their products. Make it upgradable and let me keep this printer current or I can jump to a manufacturer who does.
    2 points
  16. Das sind die Default werde aus der Firmware (eine etwas ältere da ich die zu Hand hatte) Für UM2 also 25Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.0 #define DEFAULT_Ki 2.5 #define DEFAULT_Kd 100.0 Für UM2+ also 35Watt #define DEFAULT_Kp 10.03 #define DEFAULT_Ki 1.50 #define DEFAULT_Kd 70.0 Da ich schon seit einiger zeit auf Duet Board umgerüstet habe, und da scheinbar das "Auto Tune" ordentliche Werte geliefert hatte (ich weis es gar nicht mehr genau, aber wo her soll ich diese Werte her haben) Habe ich folgende Werte eingestellt:
    2 points
  17. What you want is an infill pattern. No walls, no floor, no roof. Bring in a 25mm calibration cube. Use the Scale tool, but use the absolute numbers. Make it .4 thick and set it on the build plate. X and Y can be whatever you want. Layer height .2 Walls 0 Top and bottom 0 a bunch of other 0's Infill = lines Infill line distance = .8 Infill line direction = [0,90] Connect Infill Lines = False Infill Overlap % = 0 I think I would put a pause in between layers to insure that the first layer is hardened before running the nozzle back
    2 points
  18. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    2 points
  19. I know what you mean and the reason is, that the line width is very small, therefore it is not printed by default. But there are several options, not sure which one is responsible for that, but try: Filter Out Tiny Gaps -> unchecked Compensate Wall Overlaps And this could also help, when you print the outer wall before inner wall: Outer before Inner Walls Can you upload your STL or project file here, then we can also check it.
    2 points
  20. First I should warn you that there are something like 100 machine settings that aren't shown in these dialogs unfortunately. You can include CAD files of your printer to make it prettier in the GUI for example. But it should be enough to get good prints for most printers. Also document what you did well because sometimes when you upgrade Cura (rarely) you get messed up profiles and the solution is to blow away all user files (like printer settings). Next, "creatware" is a fork of an older version of Cura. Cura version 15.X I think (15 refers to 2015). Cura 2.X came out that ye
    2 points
  21. Sorry to hear so. It made sense to enable an option to upgrade an UM2 to an UM2+, or an UMO to an UMO+ because 'only' a few essential components were renewed. But the idea of upgrading an UM2+ to an UM2C was really pushing the boundaries of a reasonable product. And honestly, we felt it wasn't. It would create too many complexities, and it could never be a 'plug & play-upgrade'. If you rather have a DIY printer, there are plenty of options out there. The philosophy of upgrading our products is still very much alive though. Take a look at the firmware, which is updated frequent
    2 points
  22. Ahlala ! CURA n'arrive pas à "trancher" le magnifique objet que vous avez mis tant de temps à modéliser avec Sketchup : WTF ? CURA c'est de la m%@&e ! Le problème vient plus surement de Sketchup que de CURA, explications : Retour aux sources. Avant de parler de Sketchup et de CURA on va parler STL. Les fichiers STL décrivent des objets par leurs surfaces externes. Cette surface doit nécessairement être fermée et définie par une série de triangles. cf. : https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fichier_de_stéréolithographie Prenons pour exemple un des objets les plus simples que vous aurez
    2 points
  23. The yellow buttons are just the three extruders. That should be fine. The tools on the left side are all plugins. First step is: click on "Marketplace" (upper right corner) and check if the "Scale Tool"-plugin is installed and activated (!).
    2 points
  24. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  25. This is the wrong replacement pattern. Use this and Cura will not have to prepend its own preheat sequence for your extruder: M109 S{material_print_temperature} Similarly, include this to stop Cura from having to preheat the bed for you: M190 S{material_bed_temperature}
    2 points
  26. And there is also a different Z stage. All things considered, where it made sense to enable an upgrade from UM2 to an UM2+, upgrading to an UM2+C doesn't make sense. It would have been really cool though, but unfortunately not possible. As mentioned, even the frame would need to be modified.
    2 points
  27. Maybe service is just expensive and that is why chinese printers are so cheap. Just something to consider 😉 Anyhow, I also need my house to be painted. Why haven't you done so already!? I don't want to pay an actual painter to do it, because it's really expensive! All joking aside; You can just post issues on github. We will have a look at it. We can't guarantee that we will be able to fix it, because we always get more issues than we can handle. In some cases we simply can't reproduce the issue, which also makes it really hard for us to fix it (since we then don't even know where to sta
    2 points
  28. Thank you for sharing your message and wild assumptions. If you want to get in touch with us you can do so via our community, Github or our ticket support system. If you decide to go for any of these routes, I would like to ask you to pay attention to your tone of voice when you're asking for help from people who have no obligation to help you. We are willing to help though, all users of Cura, regardless if you have an Ultimaker or not. Asking nicely helps. We're all just people.
    2 points
  29. You'll be happy to hear then that an upcoming firmware release will allow you to enable a firewall, blocking all incoming traffic from the local network. This is full, 100%, network security, whereas passwords are definitely not. By enabling this firewall, users are forced to print either via USB (physical security can prevent access to this if needed), or by using the Digital Factory, which has full user management and access management in place (especially if you're a company on an Ultimaker Essentials subscription). So we take security very seriously and are doing continuous imp
    2 points
  30. It's a known issue that Cura is super slow to start if the X drive is used (if i recall correctly). Since that doesn't happen often it never got priority to get fixed.
    2 points
  31. You could try to use "setQualityGroupByType" in the machine manager.
    1 point
  32. G92 E0G92 E0G1 F1200 E-3.5 I had trouble with that line delaying extrusion for the skirt. There is a prime move later in the code (G1 F1200 E0 just after the ";Skirt" line), but it wasn't enough. This is my fix: With the Search and Replace plugin active, set the Search criteria to "G1 F1200 E-3.5" and set the replace criteria to "G92 E-5". Since there is no longer a retraction, just a reset to -5, when the G1 F1200 E0 line is acted on by the printer, the extruder pushes 5mm of filament to get to E=0. That's a good prime and usually results in a slight blob at the start of
    1 point
  33. The idea is to cool the layer that has completed before the next layer is printed on top. If the existing layer is too hot you get bad results (like bad overhangs for example). If it points too much instead at the nozzle then you need to turn the fan on very slowly. There is a feature in cura where you can have the fan come on slowly over the course of 5 layers but sometimes the first increment in fan speed causes a problem. This might all have nothing to do with your issue. Just a theory that fits what we see so far.
    1 point
  34. Thanks for your help, I tried to print it and had the issue. I used netfabb repair service and seem to be good on Cura ! I will try to print it soon. Thanks !
    1 point
  35. Really? The v1.5.7 is such a piece of crap it can't even switch on the heated bed? Okay according to here: https://reprap.org/wiki/Ultimaker's_v1.5.7_PCB it can switch up to 55 amps! That's over 1000 watts. I don't think you need a relay - just hook it straight up. A more serious issue is how many ohms is this heated bed. Heated beds are all a fixed resistance and the wattage depends on the voltage. I'm guessing you have a 24V supply. So for example if it's 200W at 18 volts then that means your heated bed is 1.62 ohms and at 24V that is 355 Watts. So hopefully y
    1 point
  36. Das Teilen ist nicht nötig. Man kann ein Modifier Mesh definieren, dieses so skalieren und positionieren, dass es das fragliche Volumen überlappt und dann den anderen Extruder diesem Volumen zuteilen.
    1 point
  37. Also wenn du nicht vor hast mit einer 1mm Düse mit 0.6 Layerhöhe und rasender Geschwindigkeit zu drucken, bringt dir der 50W Heizer wahrscheinlich mehr Probleme als er bringt. Die paar Sekunden schnellere Aufheizzeit sind zum vernachlässigen und wenn die Düse dann auf Temperatur ist, dann ist es völlig egal ob 35W oder 50W. Die Schwankungen werden aber sicher mehr werden.
    1 point
  38. Okay well you have underextrusion and here is the complete list below. It's a big list with 26 items but many should be easy to eliminate. For example if temperatures are <75F 24C in the room with the printer that's one thing you can instantly eliminate. You can ignore #1 as well as long as you are printing at 200C or hotter. I would first look ABOVE #1 below and test the feeder. It is so damn easy to test the feeder - takes a minute. Then I would measure the filament diameter (#11 below). Then I would look at #18 and #23 and #6 below. Also easy to check.
    1 point
  39. Nevermind, Cura was running in the background. Just down in the task bar thingy.
    1 point
  40. Tell me if I'm wrong but the problem seems to appear on the layer where you only have the post printing (meaning that no more walls were printed?) If that so, maybe you did not had enought cooling time between each layer. That would explain why you got more stringing too ...
    1 point
  41. Is there a way to change the retraction or temp settings for individual objects on the print bed? For Print Sequence I have print 'One at a Time' selected, but in the Per Model Custom Settings no options are available for travel or cooling.. is there a trick I am missing to get those options to show up? I am trying to print a handful of retraction calibration models on the same print but with different settings.
    1 point
  42. Yes, i probably wil try one out. The simplicity is everything! Also the printquality with the lightweight head.
    1 point
  43. Thanks for listening to my suggestion! All the best John
    1 point
  44. Prints in a print! A little color to brighten up some gray, rainy fall days here. Flower model by 4frika: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1440472 I found the bowl on ScanTheWorld; I really want to take some more pictures of it from the side. The Matte fiber filament looks good, though I had to sink the model into the bed a few mm since it wasn't flat. https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-a-stemmed-bowl-54121
    1 point
  45. I need a great help, I need to know that the number or the code that has the diode that is next to the connector of the temperature sensor, is that orange color that says ec5. Above that diode some number appears, I beg you can give it to me. Since I have infinitely appreciate . my printer burned that electrical part and I need the code to replace
    1 point
  46. Hi, I've been having this issue for a few days now. I get the "Nozzle offset probe failed. Check the nozzles and bed and try again. When auto-leveling, the bed comes up and pushes core 2 into the print head. No matter how high I manually level the bed, I get the same issue. Here is what I've tried so far. Manually leveled the bed, at numerous different heights (tight springs to loose springs), re-seated the print head wire harness, re-seated the sensor plug, unplugged the fan and tried without it, updated firmware, changed print cores out with brand
    1 point
  47. I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty.
    1 point
  48. Hallo Martin, soweit ich weiß, ist es eher umgekehrt. Der AA Core ist _nicht_ für PVA geeignet, bzw. die "normalen" Düsen neigen zu Verstopfung, wenn sie mit PVA gefüttert werden. Deshalb gibt es den BB Core mit (mindestens) einer veränderten internen Geometrie für die Düse. Der BB _kann_ auch andere Materialien drucken, tropft dann aber ein wenig mehr nach, oder so ähnlich. Ob noch andere Dinge im BB Core verändert sind, ist wahrscheinlich noch ein Betriebsgeheimnis... Gedacht ist es so, das einfach alle (unterstützten) Materialien - außer PVA - mit dem AA Core verarbeitet werden. Experim
    1 point
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