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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/21/2019 in Posts

  1. 6 points
    Made these 2 custom downspout diverters. Each one is a different angle. Used openScad to design. S5 to print. zero support was needed. Oh - also the brown barrel has a white hose clamp that I modeled in DSM and printed with Nylon filament.
  2. 5 points
    So just to be clear, you don’t own a Ultimaker printer, but use Cura, the free open source product for which Ultimaker is paying a large part of the development, and when something goes wrong you feel the need to bash Ultimaker? I understand being frustrated sometimes..... and you excused yourself already..... but please be nice....
  3. 4 points
    A test-version that should work with both Cura 4.0 and Cura 4.1 is available here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.0.0-2019-06-11T21_09_03Z.curapackage Download the file, and drop it into a running Cura application window. Then restart Cura. If this version works, it should be available from the Marketplace as an update soon.
  4. 3 points
    This is just a friendly reminder to people that when asking for help, it helps us to help you if you supply things such as models to be examined. It is amazing how many things are actually model related. But without the model and full information (printer, model, etc) it is just a guessing game.
  5. 3 points
    Because it's super annoying to get that to work on all platforms.
  6. 3 points
    The sidebar plugin will always have to be updated for new versions of Cura. It "patches" specific parts of Cura, and when Cura is changed those patches don't work anymore and have to be redone. I do think there are still good reasons to prefer the sidebar implementation over the floating panels, so I will release an updated version of the plugin at some point, but there are some complicating factors at the moment.
  7. 3 points
    Birdfeed holder, to attach the bird feeder to the new small tree in our garden, with branches too thin, but with a 40 mm diameter trunk. Fixed with two velcro stripes. Filament is Nylon transparent from Ultimaker, construction with Fusion 360.
  8. 2 points
    Hi every one, I got the same issue as you today. Context: I plugged an additionnal screen while Fusion 360 and Cura were launched. Actions done: I uninstalled the v 4.0 then install the 4.1.. Pb still present. Then I went to the folder were Cura.exe is (C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.1), Clic right on Cura.exe and select 'Solve compatibility problems' from the menu. Then I selected the option "try recommanded parameters"... After few seconds Cura 4.1 launched succesfully. Hope this 'repare' will last and hope this will help you also.
  9. 2 points
    Thanks so much Ahoeben, you rock. Such a huge difference in user experience this makes.
  10. 2 points
    The updated plugin (4.0.1) is now published in the Marketplace for both Cura 4.0 and Cura 4.1. When Cura 4.2 is released, I will have to make a new version.
  11. 2 points
    In Cura gibt es ein Setting "Print Thin Lines", damit werden auch dünnere Wände gedruckt.
  12. 2 points
    That is the idea. At least the person who wrote/updated the definition for the printer you use thought it was an improvement. Ultimaker does not test this, neither do I (I don't have a monoprice mini).
  13. 2 points
    It sounds like it's bricked. Please, do you know what version it is? I think it might show the version briefly on power up. You probably have the "stepping stone" version which was never meant to be used to print but meant to be used to upgrade to the next version. That version has this bug you describe. But if this is the absolute latest version that came out a few days ago, then it would be good to know this. How to unbrick:
  14. 2 points
    Thanks. Software side it works basically the same as Mark 2, hence similar CURA and E3D profiles. Nice post. The 1.75 hotend runs with a custom 6.35 OD 2 ID PTFE bowden tube, sold by the same Taobao seller. The major advantage of this PTFE hotend is that there is pretty much no chance of nozzle jam or clog for PLA even with frequent long retractions. With the PI insulator ring applied, the PTFE last much longer and can also handle high temp materials. As for using E3D heatbreak, the current heatsink probably won't be able to cool it down properly because the surface area is much smaller. You can consider trap a piece of 6.35 OD 3.2 ID or 5 OD 3 ID PTFE tube inside the heatsink. I think the 4*3 PTFE would deteriorate pretty quick due to thin wall thickness, and it is also too soft to hold up to the compression from filament. Making 1.75 and 2.85 hotend components swappable isn't all that necessary. You would need to make compromise on both sides to achieve that. I think it would be better to make two entire printheads with 12pin connector for quick swapping. That would be much less hustle, much more reliable and cost very little.
  15. 2 points
    Bonjour, Allez, a moi de faire mon petit retour sur la maintenance 😍 Ma première UM2 a environ 6000h d'ABS ESUN, j'estime 500h de PLA ou flexible et quelques heures en matière exotique. - J'ai restauré une dizaine de fois l'isolateur téflon, changé 2 ou 3 fois. - Usé deux ou trois buses tout diamètre confondu. - Nettoyé 2 fois le petit ventilo de protection tête. Granula de laque Dimafix qui s'accumulait et bloquait l’hélice - 2 à 3 gouttes d'huile '3 en 1' sur les 8 axes lisses de la machine (XY, chariot et Z). En essuyant après, au coton démaquillant le résidu noirâtre déposé en fin de course des axes. J'estime la fréquence en glissant un doigt sur un des axes. S'il adhère ou si c'est 'sec', je huile. Mais a la louche, tous le 100 heures d'impression. - Dégraissé 2 fois la tige fileté avec un sopalin (sans produit) et regraissé avec la graisse Ultimaker d'origine. - Je maintien également l’intérieur de la machine, presque propre. Pas de morceau de filament qui s'accumule. Éponge humide sur les parois et le fond (laque Dimafix) tous les 3 a 6 mois. J'ajoute que tout est d'origine sauf le téflon (maintenance) et bloc Olsson qui a été ajouté pour ses un an 😉 Les courroies ne sont pas trop belles a voir, trace de laque et légère usure, mais la qualité d'impression et la tension reste correcte, jamais touché a une vis de poulie, juste une vérification de serrage a la réception de la machine. Je pense quand même les démonter pour les tremper a l'eau et virer cette laque. On verra pour ses 10000 heures. Niveau amélioration / modification perso, je ventile tous les moteurs (sauf le Z) et la carte mère depuis le début. J'ai dernièrement fait l’acquisition d'une version 2+ d’occasion de 1600heures. Je tiens a remercier Ultimaker pour sa version 3 et suivante qui permet d'avoir des tarifs très correcte voir indécents dans les UM2 ou UM2+. Les diverses améliorations des UM2+ sont très intéressantes. Extrudeur et bloc Olsson essentiellement. J'ai refait des supports pour la ventilation des moteurs et de la carte. Vérifier le serrage des poulies. Restauré le téflon qui a vu sa vie se prolonger 500h a aujourd'hui. Je pense que le système sans ressort limite la pression constante d’écrasement et cela augment franchement sa durée. Voila, c'est a peu près tout 😉 Fred.
  16. 2 points
    when you use ->preferences-> multiple build plates, a little window down left appears, where the numbers are visible and clickable. It seams to be a bit of a forgotten, unfinished, but handy feature.... you can click an item in the list and the model lights up, but if you click a model it is not highlighted in the list.. And you cannot drag the window, it is overlapping with the model text
  17. 1 point
    Extension to do 5 point head tuning from CURA without manual printer commanda. who wants it? it is updated to 4.1 BedlevelPlugin.zip
  18. 1 point
    I am working on a plugin that will let you add more settings to the Print Settings for materials on the Materials pane of the Preferences: At its simplest, it just adds the Flow setting to the Materials pane. Note that if you have a Flow values specified in a profile or in the sidebar, that value still overrides whatever you set in the material.
  19. 1 point
    Use T{initial_extruder_nr} instead of the final T0 Cura will fill in the extruder number of the first used extruder for the {initial_extruder_nr} part.
  20. 1 point
    Wenn hier die Rede von den Post-Processing Skripten ist, ist es einfach: Für die Anzeige der Layernummer werden Zeilen mit GCode M117 hinzugefügt, und "Filament Change" fügt Gcode M600 ein. Beides wird von der UM2-Firmware ignoriert / nicht unterstützt. Viele der mitgelieferten Skripte sind für Ultimaker-Geräte einfach nutzlos. Leider ist in der Auswahlliste meist nicht erkennbar, was das Skript überhaupt tut. "Pause at height" ist für den UM2+ geeignet, allerdings ist hier der Wert für "Extrude Amount" wichtig (*). Es gibt einen Tooltip, wenn man mit der Maus darüberfährt. Dort ist der korrekte Wert für die UM2-Serie angegeben. Mit dem standardmässigen GCode-Flavor "Ultimaker" werden Volumenwerte für die E-Achse verwendet, deshalb muss man die 20mm Retract nach dem Materialwechsel mit (ca.) 128 mm³ kompensieren. (* - ich gehe hier mal von der derzeit aktuellen Cura Version 4.1 aus)
  21. 1 point
    There are two "modes" of specifying coordinates: relative or absolute. You describe absolute coordinates. In relative coordinates each time you use `G0 X1`, the head will move 1 mm. You can change between absolute and relative modes with the G90 and G91 commands respectively. http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G000-G001.html http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G090.html http://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G091.html
  22. 1 point
    It's worth to try. It can fix some minor issues with the firmware. If not, then recovering the firmware with an image is the only option left. You will find instructions here on the forum.
  23. 1 point
    @ultiarjan has a good point with 2nd hand machines. If you want to buy it from a more official point, look out for refurbished printers. In Europe, some distributors offer this and FBRC8 in the US does it as well. Why would you not buy an Ultimaker 2+ even when in a year or two a successor would come out? If the printer offers what you need, then it's a good deal. If it doesn't you should also not buy it later. Does that make sense for you?
  24. 1 point
    johnse has great advice. But you shouldn't need a raft. Raft is an old technology and there are several newer generations of materials and printers since then. What kind of printer do you have? What material are you printing? You don't need raft with PLA. Ever. If you are printing ABS (don't print ABS) and you have a reprap style printer - like the prusa i3, then raft might be a good option. But if you have a printer with a heated bed you don't need raft. I talk about raft and the newer technologies - why they are needed - the purposes - and solutions - here:
  25. 1 point
    I'm afraid not. You would have to delve into the C++ code in the backend to be able to add/change the skin patterns.
  26. 1 point
    Hello, I was hoping there was a way disable perspective viewing mode and have it be orthographic. This is very useful when trying to fit multiple large prints onto the bed. Provides a much clearer picture of the relative location of the parts.
  27. 1 point
    Those strings on the side don't have a lot to do with the filament. Those happen on filament changes when changing from PVA back to PLA. The old nozzle is leaking a bit and there is this little string/noodle sticking out of the nozzle and when it starts printing again it gets attached to the side of the print. One solution is a prime tower. There is an option in cura to add a prime tower. Make sure the prime tower isn't in a rear corner - it does better in the rear center if possible.
  28. 1 point
    Ich habe mal Bilder von meinem derzeit größten ABS-Projekt angefügt. Ich habe für die NSU Quickly´s die Scheinwerfer/Tacho-Aufnahme (Gehäuse mit Anschluß zum Schutzblech) nachkonstruiert und 2-Teilig gedruckt. Bei so einer größe darf es zu keiner Zeit dazu kommen, dass die Temperatur größer abfällt. Bei einer Temperatur-Differenz von größer 8 Grad kommt es unweigerlich schon zu Verspannungen und damit Warping oder sogar Layerdelaminierung innerhalb des Teils. ABS ist da, egal von welchem Hersteller, extrem anfällig. Es gibt zwar unterschiede von Hersteller zu Hersteller in der Anfälligkeit, aber die Neigung haben Sie grundsätzlich immer. Ist in der großen Schrumpfung begründet. Aber machbar ist das, wie du siehst... Der Druck für die beiden Teile ging übrigens über 28 h - Highspeed ist da, wie du siehst, fehl am Platz... 😉 Ich habe auch mal das alte Orginal Maßlieferteil angehängt, dessen hälfte mir als Vorlage diente - da wird deutlich, warum er das neu haben wollte, denke ich... 😂 Gruß, Digibike
  29. 1 point
    So that ruby core you bought - it's meant for the Ultimaker 2. I don't know if you got the Olsson ruby or the 3dsolex everlast but I can tell in the picture that it has standard M6 thread and it's meant for the UM2 printer only. For the UM3 or S5 you have 2 choices. You can by a CC 0.6 core from the same manufacturer that sold you your printer. Or you can buy a 3dsolex "hardcore" with a ruby nozzle. 3dsolex.com. disclaimer: In the USA I sell 3dsolex parts (thegr5store.com)
  30. 1 point
    Latest Cura latest firmware, no problem so far.
  31. 1 point
    Abstract Since the current e-build of Cura for my distro has issues I decided to just get the source from git up and running. Additionally, I wanted this in a virtual python environment so I didn't have to worry about conflicts with my system or python upgrades. (amd64 gentoo 4.19.44) Resources Please read the following two articles. They are brief and very well done. However neither of these worked for me exactly as written so I wanted to submit my log here in hopes that it may help others. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Running-Cura-from-Source-on-Ubuntu https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/wiki/Running-Cura-from-Source-on-openSUSE Create the Python virtual environment, activate it, and install the dependencies cd ~/virtualenvs virtualenv -p /usr/bin/python3.5 Cura source ./Cura/bin/activate pip3 install pyserial PyQt5==5.10 requests scipy numpy shapely zeroconf Build dependencies under /usr/local/src : note: use an appropriate distro location, on my system that is /usr/local/src Create a CuraEnv folder to hold everything. cd /usr/local/src/ mkdir CuraEnv cd CuraEnv note: Always return to this folder before installing the next sub package libCharon git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/libCharon cd libCharon python3 setup.py build python3 setup.py install note: install will build and install but I like to go slow and read outputs note: sudo is not needed for install due to the virtualenv sip wget https://sourceforge.net/projects/pyqt/files/sip/sip-4.19.13/sip-4.19.13.tar.gz tar xzvf sip-4.19.13.tar.gz cd sip-4.19.13 python3 configure.py make -jn -ln sudo make install note: With regards to make -j and -l are completely optional, they are arguments for number of threads and load respectively. note: sudo is needed here because ~/virtual/Cura/include is a symbolic to /usr/include which needs elevated permissions for write protobuf git clone https://github.com/google/protobuf.git cd protobuf git checkout 3.5.1.1 mkdir build-dir cd build-dir cmake ../cmake -Dprotobuf_BUILD_TESTS=OFF Be sure to add the -fPIC flag to CMAKE_CXX_FLAGS to the CMackeCache file as noted in the Ubuntu guide. Build and install make -jn -ln sudo make install note: With regards to make -j and -l are completely optional, they are arguments for number of threads and load respectively. libArcus git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/libArcus.git cd libArcus mkdir build && cd build cmake -DCMAKE_INSTALL_PREFIX=/usr .. make -jn -ln sudo make install note: With regards to make -j and -l are completely optional, they are arguments for number of threads and load respectively. CuraEngine git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/CuraEngine.git cd CuraEngine mkdir build cd build cmake .. make -jn -ln sudo make install note: With regards to make -j and -l are completely optional, they are arguments for number of threads and load respectively. libSavitar git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/libSavitar.git cd libSavitar mkdir build && cd build cmake .. make -jn -ln sudo make install note: With regards to make -j and -l are completely optional, they are arguments for number of threads and load respectively. Uranium git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/Uranium.git fdm_materials git clone https://github.com/Ultimaker/fdm_materials.git Cura cd Cura mkdir resources/materials ln -s /usr/local/bin/CuraEngine . ln -s /usr/local/src/fdm_materials resources/materials/fdm_materials Set PYTHONPATH start and test PYTHONPATH=$PWD/../Uranium:$PYTHONPATH python3 cura_app.py Extra Credit Hopefully all went well and you are probably sick of a terminal by now. Let's add a quick launcher script so you can have easy access via your window manager. cd /usr/local/bin sudo nano vim /usr/local/bin/cura paste this block, save and close #!/bin/bash #Start up the virtual python env source ~/virtualenvs/Cura/bin/activate #Change Directory cd /usr/local/src/CuraEnv/Cura #Set env and start... #send stderr to log and dump stdout PYTHONPATH=$PWD/../Uranium:$PYTHONPATH python3 cura_app.py 2>/var/log/cura.log >/dev/null & make it executable sudo chmod +x /usr/local/bin/cura Add /usr/local/bin/cura to your launcher of choice and use the icon from the cura/icons folder to make it pretty. Happy printing.
  32. 1 point
    I'm trying to resolve the same issue, in S3D there is a lift when traveling setting I'm trying to find a similar setting in Cura.
  33. 1 point
    I work for a plastic bottle manufacturer. I print a lot of bottles with various neck finishes. I work in SolidWorks. Try adjusting the Horizontal Expansion setting in the Shell menu. I find a -0.125mm (negative 0.125mm) setting brings most of my neck finish I.Ds to an acceptable accuracy compared to the model.
  34. 1 point
    I've never used the cura-build scripts on the laptop I do all the development work on. I basically did the following things; - Check out libArcus - Create build folder, run cmake && make && make install - Check out Cura Engine - Create build folder and run cmake && make - Check out Uranium - Check out Cura - In the cura folder use python3 cura_app.py to start Cura. At that point, it is likely to complain about missing a number of dependencies, which I install with pip until it runs.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    @Smithy Thanks for joining
  37. 1 point
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  38. 1 point
    Bye bye soft and hello shiny lol! However the soft coating felt really nice like silk or satin or something, very smooth to the touch! I have 2 more skulls to play with, The shinyness really brings out the subtle imperfections! This is because im not dipping and only light brushing trying to maintain maximum detail. A long dip would sort out most layer lines but at the cost of sharp corners and subtle cavitities.gonna try a blue patina one next. They always look sexy but decay real fast if not sealed right!!! I may have to do a terminator skull next...
  39. 1 point
    I am experiencing the issue in 3.5. When I try to define my print temperature in my start gcode, it always sets to 210C for both extruders. The code I am using for my extruder temperature setting is: M104 S{material_print_temperature} T0 M104 S{material_print_temperature} T1 Here is the resulting gcode: M104 S210 T0 M104 S210 T1 I have set (using the GUI) extruder 1 to 235C and extruder 2 to 200C. Am I using the correct variable, {material_print_temperature}, in my startup code?
  40. 1 point
    Go to the Printers pane of the Preferences, and press the Machine Settings dialog. That has an option to set the number of extruders, and there are tabs per extruder to set (among other things) the offsets for each nozzle.
  41. 1 point
    The S5 knocked this one out of the park. I made a crane (1 meter long when at full extension). Client was happy and now producing two official copies. Making a couple of changes to make the final models be spot on. Edit: Made with UM White TPLA.
  42. 1 point
    Hi Folks, I've never been posting any prints (model) I'd made here, but this time I've simply have to share.. Right now I'm working in Japan, far away from home in Norway. So I have no access to my printer, but my two sons have.. Anyway, the older one sent me a picture of a print he made. To my surprise he made a 3D drawing of the old Hansa faucet we have on the kitchen sink, that's have a shower in combination with the faucet. This one is now kind of old, since 83.. so about 35 years I'll say. Anyway, the plastic housing of the shower part does not work very well any more and spreading water all over the place, -kind of awaiting to be replaced.. So yesterday I've got a picture of the old shower device together with a gray printed copy he made as an replacement for the old one. Not just that, he also sent a small video of how the new shower adapter worked. So he told me he is looking for some filament that's food qualified and can be used for producing this kind of parts for drinking water. He used PLA that's the stuff doctors using for support inside "our" body during surgery. The PLA dissolve inside body and leave no trace. -Is there something I'm missing here? Anyway, I'm impressed by those young guys, they just makes those things easily like that. Some says, seeing is believing. Well, another way of creating valuable parts using a 3D printer. Sorry folks, not allowed to upload a 1 Mg byte video, so had to skip. :/ I've almost skipped the whole thing due to this latter.. Thanks Regards Torgeir.
  43. 1 point
    Kman, my hope is the Team is already paying attention to this (why I posted). Two issues that need looking at by them.. 1) We desperately need a way to print the settings out to a text file so we can share our settings easier. If we had that, we could save them a lot of time because we could compare between users and fix a lot of silly things before ever involving them. Who knows, this may be one of them, but its like pulling teeth to get anyone to share their settings because of how hard it is. 2) The top and bottom layers should be different from the infill. 6 concentric rings around each hole that allow me to push out a huge chunk of the print without much problem because of my issue seems wrong. Even if I didn't have this problem, it would make the work more solid so its a good idea anyway.
  44. 1 point
    It is ALL being sliced by Cura and the point here is, while printers are different, to accomodate all of them (not a small task by any means and kudo's for you guys trying!) you need to have different slice capabilities built in. In the case of more than one of us obviously, the layers need to be different from the infill in how they handle edges. The concentric thing doesn't work very well. So lines would be more appropriate in this case. In all of the wonderful choices (settings) for the love of GOD I can't find where I can make the top layer just different in ANY way to the infill around holes. When you can see all the way through those rings, there is something very wrong. In any case, we are all appreciative of your efforts! Do NOT abandon us! The reason I don't purchase a ready-built printer is because I am a tinkerer, and it would be blasphemous to just purchase an off the shelf printer. I would have to take up drinking if I did that! ?
  45. 1 point
    The actual difference is even bigger since they left room for the switch mechanism to not occupy print area
  46. 1 point
    The original knurled feeder looks brand new. No wear and tear. I will say that from day one the "optimized" profiles for PLA in Cura have infill speeds that are too high for the stock feeder. My printer has always underextruded PLA on infill using the 80mm/sec setting in the standard profile. In optimal conditions the stock feeder works just fine. However, there are many variables that can contribute to friction/blockage that will cause slippage. Here are just a few: 1. Coming to the end of a roll and the filament is tightly bent. 2. Adding a drybox with additional tubing that the filament has to go through. 3. Some filaments appear to be more brittle/hard and are not gripped as well by the feeder wheel. 4. Carbon buildup on the nozzle in the middle of a print causing partial obstructions. 5. Faster print speeds 6. Lower heat at the nozzle etc. My experience is that these can contribute to failed prints with the stock feeder. However, I am finding that the Bondtech is gripping the filament so much better that it mitigates most of these problems and allows me to print at much faster speeds.
  47. 1 point
    Check the Cura settings, there are 3 temps to set, initial temperature, print temperature and final temperature, they allow 10 C of tolerance. I set them all the same. And then, which color is the new / 2nd extruder and what kind of extruder is it? Is it a UM2+ extruder or a UM2 extruder? Afaik the UM2 extruder has less power, maybe this is an issue?
  48. 1 point
    Hi joris, The PSU might shut down with dual extrusion, if all heaters and steppers are switched on at the same time. There are power budget settings in the firmware to limit the wattage for the heaters and bed heater. I suggest using the forum search with "power budget".
  49. 1 point
    (maybe a stupid question) Do you set the z axis also for extruder 1? if yes, I haven't done that. Just calibrate your buildplate with extruder 1 just how you normally would do and then set the z axis for extruder 2. if not, I haven't said anything...
  50. 1 point
    Would it be possible to just drill the holes in the back of the case for the second extruder. This way I wouldn't have to worry about it hanging off the back of the printer
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