Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/06/2021 in Posts

  1. It does not work because the model has no wall thickness at all. It's a non-manifold geometry and therefor cannot exist in the so-called "real world". 🙂 I don't know the software you use, but you should read about how to create manifold geometry for 3D-printing. For example: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-manifold-geometry/
    3 points
  2. "At least according to the marlin config file from creality". Over the course of the last year or so, Creality ran out of various parts and made substitutions. Among the parts that they substituted were mainboards. They grabbed what boards they had available, did quicky patches to the firmware, installed the boards and sold the machines. There were issues and one of them was that G2 / G3 was not enabled. Another issue was the M0/M1/M117 glitch that killed the ability to use the "Pause at Height" plugin. Yes, it's a 32 bit mainboard but memory is memory and I've seen no mention of
    2 points
  3. We missed the dual extrusion issue. It's something that we should have caught but didn't. Since a lot of people have also reported this on github (thanks for that!), we already have fix for this and have changed the tests that we run per release so that this shouldn't happen anymore. We do print a dual extrusion model every release, but the model that we used didn't exhibit the problem (Which was unfortunately one of the few models that didn't have the issue...). As people might have noticed, we also didn't get any reports about this during the beta (which is unfortunate, but the primary respo
    2 points
  4. Time for me to eat dirt - the problem was down entirely to me, sorry! The explanation was that for this project, after slicing, I had taken advantage of the handy Cura feature that allowed me to save directly to the SD card (in its USB stick). I didn't notice that this does not let me specify a new name. For all my previous projects I had saved the gcode to my project folder on the PC, with my choice of filename. I then copied that to the SD card before inserting in the printer. I'll revert to that method from now on! The speed and automatic reject of the other method i
    2 points
  5. If the material is PVA, you may want to try drying the spool on the heated build plate or a food dehydrator first before loading it onto the S3. I ran into the same problem with a brand new spool of PVA. All I can tell you is that PVA is a very difficult material to deal with. Good luck! https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012057799
    1 point
  6. One is your canoe and one is mine. Can you tell which is which? Attached is the repaired model. I like Service.netfabb.com for model repair. They can even float boats and it's free. Canoo_fixed.stl
    1 point
  7. @ctbeke Thank you for the update! I look forward to seeing this implemented in the future!
    1 point
  8. You have 2 issues. The first issue is that the walls are too thin for your "line width". Line width should be the same as nozzle size within a range of 75% to 150% so if your nozzle is 0.4mm you can go down to 0.3mm line width without losing much quality. Also you can check the option "print thin lines" that will let you print even thinner walls. You can experiment with setting nozzle width smaller and smaller until it prints those letters but if you go much below 0.3mm quality will suffer. Alternatively you can set "horiztonal expansion" to say 1mm and those walls should print
    1 point
  9. Try by activating "print thin walls" under Shell... if that doesn't work, share the STL-file so we can take a look at it...
    1 point
  10. Hallo, würde behaupten. Der Hintere hat 5V. Die Seitlichen haben 12V. Bzw. 2x Ultimaker Model Cooling Fan 12VDC 0.1 A UM2 1x Ultimaker Hot-end Cooling Fan 5VDC 0.008A UM2 Viele Grüße
    1 point
  11. My S5 started to make some unpleasant noises when the print bed moved up and down. The issue was in my case that the white plastic cover at the back of the print bed carriage has deformed over time. One of the through holes in the plastic cover moved and was now touching the z-axis rod. This could also happen to your S5 printer over time. I will try to explain what I did to solve the issue. I also took some pictures from the parts inside with some comments. Before the repair: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt96xhdoyvbb1ex/Before_repair.mp4?dl=0 After the repair:
    1 point
  12. Cura 4.9 will freeze while loading on "initializing build volume", also reported on /topic/36785-cura-49-freezing-at-initializing-build-volume/ The problem is with ultimaker account sigh in Fix is to delete the row "ultimaker_auth_data = ..." from cura.cfg and re sing in on application launch
    1 point
  13. Also, a big hot bed causes a lot of upwards airflow, cooling the sides of the model differently. And the nozzle-coolers also cool very unevenly, where they happen to be. If prints are removed from the bed too early, before being cold, I could imagine that they would also be more prone to warping. It seems that molecular structure of PLA also keeps changing for some time after printing, becoming more and more crystalline. It becomes more brittle, but I don't know if this changes stresses and dimensions? I always let parts cool in the printer on the bed slowly, before attempting to r
    1 point
  14. If you see this tangling beginning while it is still printing, a temporary solution is sometimes to manually unwind and loosen up some filament, very carefully, without interrupting the printing. Then roll it up again and make sure it is still free, so you can continue printing for a few more hours. Repeat untill your print is completed, and then you can really handle it as described above. I have had to do that too, I think we all have...
    1 point
  15. The USB Printing option in Cura is un-maintained (Ultimaker printers don't use it anymore). Connection is supposed to be automatic so there are no options to pick a port, or a baud rate. Check in the Cura Marketplace under Installed and scroll down to "USB Printing" and make sure it's installed and checked. When you are sure it's installed and active... Turn off the printer. Close Cura. Disconnect the USB cable. Start the printer, let it finish booting, and re-connect the cable. The printer should re-boot when it sees the 5 volt signal on the USB cable. Make
    1 point
  16. I know, old thread and all of that, but there is an awkward workaround to this huge flaw in Cura. Update the profile with the setting tweaked. (Update profile with current settings / overrides). This is important for step 5. Go to Help --> Show Configuration Folder Close out of Cura. Open the "quality_changes" folder. Sort by date, and you'll see your latest changes in one of the files, if you open the last changed file. Open that file in notepad and search for the value that you changed. (i.e. 205 if you changed your standby temperature to
    1 point
  17. It would make much more sense to ask Creality for support. Given that this is an LCD-type resin printer, I don't think Cura will be the suitable slicer for this printer.
    1 point
  18. Again, I don't think vacuum bags will help. You need dessicant. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dessicant&qid=1620530771&sr=8-4 Also once you get water in the filament, no amount of vacuum or dessicant will help - you need to heat it as I describe above.
    1 point
  19. Well, there is a mirror tool in Cura, is it this what you're looking for? A picture from the manual: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011927800-How-to-mirror-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    1 point
  20. It is being addressed, but wouldn’t you rather have a tested solution than a quick one?
    1 point
  21. The trickery by @GregValiant is totally unnecessary. While it is true that Cura places models on the buildplate regardless of their original location, it does remember the origin of the individual models. The "merge models" function @IRobertI mentioned is meant exactly for this scenario, and restores the original relative position of the models.
    1 point
  22. Geez, and I thought the lines were showing air turbulence as the Benchy went speeding along.
    1 point
  23. Select the models as a group by holding down shift and clicking each one. Then right click on one of them and select "Merge models".
    1 point
  24. Und falls das auch nicht stimmt kann man die .ufp Datei auch mit einer Zip-Anwendung öffnen und dort den "model.gcode" ändern. Gerade versucht und funktioniert Enthaltene Ordner:
    1 point
  25. Also nur um Missverständnisse vorzubeugen, ich habe keinen UM3. Bin einfach her gegangen und hab in Cura einen UM3 ausgewählt und mit diesen Einstellungen wo Standard gesetzt sind ein Dual Modell in scheiben geschnitten Und ja die 100C standen bei Standby Temperatur von Extruder 2 Wo diese hergenommen wurde weis ich auch nicht den bei Generic PVA steht 175C als Standby Temperatur Auch wenn man Ultimaker PVA auswählt bleibt 100C obwohl 175C in den Material steht Die Nachbearbeitungs Scripte/Plugin sollten doch beim S5 auch
    1 point
  26. Naja das ist schon Skipping, da springt der Motor ja einen schritt zurück, ob die länge jetzt normal ist oder bei dir mehr wie normal ist, kann ich dir nicht sagen Aber wie gesagt bei meinen Bondtech bekomme ich eigentlich nur Grinding, und das macht mich stutzig. Wie war es den bei dir vorher, mehr Grinding oder auch Skipping? Mann sieht ja auf den Video auch Filament Reste von Grinding liegen Oder ich habe bei mir die Feder nicht so stark gespannt, deine Schraube + Feder ist ja fast auf block Ändere auch nochmal diese genannten M-Befehl mit meinen:
    1 point
  27. Perfect. Thanks for the confirmation @SandervG. Good to know 👍
    1 point
  28. In Cura use "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here. Support blockers can be configured in different ways and when set to "overlaps" you can change the wall count, infill density, whatever.
    1 point
  29. Wennst du doch schon eine Konfiguration heruntergeladen hast wofür brauchst du dann noch eine Costum Drucker. Für was war dann die Konfiguration? Für was musst du warten bist der Drucker frei ist, Druckst du über USB oder wie verstehe ich das? Man kann doch in Cura einfach einen Würfel (bzw. zwei weil Dual) und slicen lassen und diese teilen Nur mal kurz nebenbei. Wenn man in Cura 0 einträgt kann es den Bauraum nicht mehr richtig begrenzen. Über den Plugin ("Versatz mit Extruder") kann man einstellen ob der Versatz mit in gcode einflie
    1 point
  30. Take a look at the "mb-testing" branch: https://github.com/smartavionics/CuraEngine/tree/mb-testing/src/infill
    1 point
  31. @nallath Python Zeroconf is again a likely offender. OctoPrint plugin includes and uses a newer version of it, which fixes at least one memory leak. The OctoPrint plugin also has an option not to use zeroconf for discovery at all, which could be an option to give the people that are affected by this issue (relegating them to manual instances).
    1 point
  32. Ganz Ganz unten wie im 2ten Bild markiert Ist ja wie ein Costum Setting OK abgehakt evtl. noch mit 100 Wenn es dir halt zu hell ist versuch halt S10 oder so und nicht nur S2 😁 Das ist richtig Wird aber halt nur das erste mal aufgerufen daher brauchst du das M116 direkt in startcode + da die Achsen noch nicht Referenziert sind wird es vermutlich gar nicht ausgeführt, aber das erste T0 kann man nur mit aufwand verhindern in Cura Richtig beobachtet, Standard ist 1C Toleranz wo dann fortgefahren wird
    1 point
  33. A layer height of .8 is really pushing it. At 1/2 nozzle diameter you would do better. The nozzle has to "squish" the plastic on to the bed in order to get it to stick. That brings up problem #2... "So once set, it should print the whole stack. Once printed, these layers will be separated, kind of making wireframe/stencil. Is that possible?" Poor layer adhesion and a resultant failure of a printed part is the most popular failure mode of FDM. A lot of research has gone into getting layers to adhere to each other better. It is necessary to get the first lay
    1 point
  34. Hi @Nicko_Airbus and @kevinmoore1337, thank you for your message. I would like to ask you to submit a ticket to us via our ticketing system, linking to this thread or describing the issue you have with PVA/filament breaking in your material station. We probably have a solution for you. Hope this helps, have a great day!
    1 point
  35. I have a DuetWifi controller on a FolgerTech FT5 and use the Pause at height for RepRap firmware function. It only allows entering the pause height in mm (I use mm)(some allow mm or layer but not this one). I have to use my 3d modeling software to determine where I want my layer breaks and write them down before loading the STL file into Cura. Sometimes, usually, I have to resize the Z axis height in Cura and now I don't know what my pause points are unless I use the slider and calculate the new mm value by multiplying the layer number by the layer height in the slicer. For example layer 125 X
    1 point
  36. Unter Cura auf ->Datei ->Projekt speichern und die erzeugte 3MF-Datei hier posten. So können die Leute das Projekt laden und haben die Einstellungen 1:1 auf ihrem eigenen Rechner. Was für einen Drucker benutzt du? Mir ist jetzt nur die Linienbreite aufgefallen, die steht bei dir auf genau 0,4mm. Könnte u.U. eine Fehlerursache sein.
    1 point
  37. Well, the step file is published on GitHub: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/2137/2137-A If you want exactly this part - just convert it to stl format. A convenient way is: https://www.opencascade.com/products/cad-assistant/ 2137-A.stl
    1 point
  38. Mhmm ☹️ Kann schon sein das ich nochmal geschrieben hatte "ich würde es noch drin lassen bis auch die Makros usw. eingefahren sind". Und bei den Bed.g Makro ist er dir ja in der Seite gefahren, normal falls es damals aktiv war, soll nur der Motor geskippt sein und keine Riemen übersprungen sein. Sobald bei mir Riemen überspringen Lösse ich alle Pulley und richte die Achsen aus bzw. ich kontrolliere es, da es ja sein kann das die unterschiedlich übersprungen sind (also z.B. der eine ein Zahn mehr) und somit verspannt sind. Aber du musst bei den Befehlen den Sinn versteh
    1 point
  39. How wide is the line? How thick is each stencil? What material do you anticipate using?
    1 point
  40. Maybe you can get that to work with the SVG toolpath plugin. I've not worked with that myself, but i've seen people do some pretty crazy things with that.
    1 point
  41. Maybe 15% infill isn't enough? For moulds, I use 25%, and to me that already feels like the minimum. After printing, my moulds are totally flat, but they are much smaller, about 10cm long. Did you post-process the thing? I found that chemical smoothing with dichloromethane tends to make moulds warp slightly too. Especially since I only smooth the inside (=casting side), not the outside of the shell, so it is uneven. Probably the chemicals go deep into the material, and into the hollows of the infill, and keep working there. Acetone smoothing tends to make them crack after some time
    1 point
  42. I looks like the Ultimaker adds the line from within Cura (rather than as an ending Gcode script). There are two ways to do it. If you think you would use the cool-down script all the time you could put it at the end of your "End Gcode" script in the printer Machine Settings in Cura. The M140 S0 line would still be there but the code will execute so fast in the printer that the bed won't have time to cool down before it hits the first M190 line. If it's a one-shot deal then open the gcode file and insert the cool-down code between the "M104 S0" line and the ";End of G
    1 point
  43. You didn't mention your printer. My Creality machine has an End G-Code that Cura inserts at the end of any gcode file. I would make an adjustment there. If you have an Ultimaker printer you might still get it to work. An option would be to add it manually to the end of a gcode file. There will be a line "M140 S0" that turns the bed off. Comment that out and put the following at the end where it will execute last. I'm assuming a bed temperature of 60°. ;M140 S0 ;Add a semi-colon to make the line a comment M190 R60 G4 S3000 M190
    1 point
  44. Yes, that was a bad experience. As Longtoke points out, it wasn't the fault of Cura. When you push the "Home" button, Cura sends the command "G28" to the printer and that is all it does. That G28 is interpreted by the firmware in the printer as "home all axis" and the printer starts the axis motors and moves the print head to the "0" endstops of the X, the Y, and the Z axis. The speed that the motors run at is also set within the firmware and Cura cannot effect the homing speed. It is then each endstop switch's job to inform the firmware "OK you can stop the motor now". When e
    1 point
  45. Yeah I'll be a bit more thorough, also including 2.3.1 which was the latest 32-bit release: http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_amd64.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_i386.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win64.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1.AppImage
    1 point
  46. We put a lot of effort in creating the content for all of the courses and lesson plans in our Academy, and we hope they’ve proven to be educational for you. But why stop learning after completing a course? It’s not unlikely that you’d like to continue to discuss and learn about that subject. Most users visit the community because they want to learn more about 3D printing. We’re looking forward hearing from you! Join the discussion and continue to learn together.
    1 point
  47. I have personally made some little anti-vibration feet for my S5 now because its on a wood desk so hopefully it will take out some the vibration and sound when printer is in use, more so because i have 2 s5 side by side printing. Best to use a TPU filament with around 50% infill, have added the stl files below for both right and left hand feet. It also gives about 6mm of extra height under the printer what gives better air flow for the fan under it. Or like i do i store the 2nd glass build plate under the printer. Body1.stl Body2.stl
    1 point
  48. thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far: 1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs: bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes 2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration. 3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but
    1 point
  49. Note: first make sure you are comfortable editing files with “vi”. It is a text editor. Google it, fear it.
    1 point
  50. Cura looks for neither M109 or M104, it looks for the text {material_print_temperature} (including curly braces)
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...