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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/12/2019 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Hi, I agree that the "fast" profile is shit, and I can't really see any use for it. But to be fair there are some significant changes between normal and fast beside the layer height. "Outer wall speed" goes from 23 mm/s to 50 mm/s "Inner wall speed" goes from 45 mm/s to 55 mm/s "Outer wall Acceleration" goes from 500 mm/s to 2000 mm/s "Inner Wall Acceleration" goes from 1000 mm/s to 2000 mm/s
  2. 2 points
    No need the reset something. Check if your end stop switches are still working. These are the 2 black switches in the back left corner on the top. Turn off you printer and move the head manually the corner and check (hear) if the end stop switch - you can hear a click. If not adjust these switches by loosening the screws a little bit that you can move the switch nearer to the head. After you have a working end switch you should calibrate the lifting switch, which could be done via the menu on your printer. Just follow the steps there.
  3. 2 points
    After a bit of a struggle I can now build Cura development releases for Windows based on PyQt 5.13 (PyQt 5.10 is used for my earlier releases). Those of you having problems running the Ultimaker releases (e.g. no window appearing) may wish to try my latest (1012) build just in case the more recent PyQt fixes any of the issues. It can be installed alongside the Ultimaker releases without conflict. As always, releases are provided with no warranty, YMMV. You can find them at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 All feedback is welcome, please comment on this thread if you try this release.
  4. 2 points
    Here's an updated version that supports more replacement patterns: Cura 3.5-3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v5.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage Cura 4.0-4.3: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/CustomJobPrefix-v6.0.0-2019-10-10T14_23_56Z.curapackage {printer_name}, {printer_type}, {layer_height}, {machine_nozzle_size}, {material_type}, {material_weight}, {print_time_hours}, {print_time_minutes}, {date_year}, {date_month}, {date_day}, {time_hour}, {time_minutes}
  5. 1 point
    It is important to reinstall the later versions. What Microsoft means by “compatible” is that they are backwards compatible. This means that the classes and functions that existed in the older versions still work the same way and thus older programs can work with them. However, a newer program can use things added in the later versions. If a program does not use anything newer, you’re OK. But if it does, it will crash when it tries to use that functionality. You may have researched a lot about it...I’ve been programming in Windows since V3.0, with over 10 years of that being at Microsoft.
  6. 1 point
    I cannot read German, but luckily Google Translate does 🙂 Thank you for the link. For those finding this thread in the future: I also reached out to ColorFabb themselves and a material profile should be out on the Ultimaker Marketplace soon.
  7. 1 point
    Nice find. We're going to look into this to see if that was the thing plaguing the rest of the users as well.
  8. 1 point
    As mentioned earlier, set all speeds and jerks to the same value and you will see a major improvement in quality and also in dimensional accuracy.
  9. 1 point
    Looking at the diamond-shapedmarking on the filament, I think the tension is OK. Gouging the filament like that is likely either that you had a nozzle jam so the filament could not advance and got ground down, or your model had too many retractions in a short area of filament.
  10. 1 point
    Hallo! Ich habe an meinem UMO+ einige Verbesserungen durchgeführt, die ich mit euch teilen möchte. Das Ziel war stets ein verbessertes Druckergebnis zu erzielen. 1. Dual Extrusion Ich wollte ein Dual Extrusion Setup bei meinem UMO+, um PVA bzw. HIPS als Stützmaterial zu drucken. Ich habe mich für den E3D Chimera+ in der wassergekühlten Variante entschieden. Da es den Chimera+ aber nur für 1,75mm Filament gibt, musste ich es umbauen: Bowden-Tube-Kupplungen für 3 mm sind angeschweißt worden und spezielle Heat-Breaks aus Titan wurden gefertigt. Plated Copper Düsen und Heat-Blocks sind in Verwendung. Beide Düsen gehen bis 400°C und werden durch eine Wasserkühlung gekühlt. Der Druckkopf ist als modulare Halterung entworfen worden und kann entfernt werden. So können Reparaturen einfach vorgenommen werden und meine Dremel kann als Platinenfräse angebracht werden. 2. BondTech QR Extruder Der originale Extruder wurde gegen zwei BondTech QR getauscht. 3. 8 mm Achsen Die beiden mittig über Kreuz angeordneten Achsen sind standardmäßig nur 6 mm im Durchmesser. Da ich mehr Stabilität wollte, habe ich sie gegen 8 mm dicke Achsen getauscht. Neue Linearlager von Misumi sind ebenso verbaut und die XY-Blöcke wurden neu konstruiert. 4. Druckbett-Stabilisierung Da das Druckbett bei mir immer vibrierte, als ich Objekte druckte, die weit vorne liegen, habe ich dieses stabilisiert. Die Vibrationen waren im Nachhinein sichtbar und können sogar während dem Druck die Glasplatte verschieben. Nun ist das Druckbett extrem stabil. 5. Platinenfräse Ich wollte Platinen selber herstellen. Einfach den Aufsatz für den Chimera+ abschrauben und den Aufsatz für die biegsame Welle der Dremel anschrauben. 6. Direct-Drive Schrittmotoren Dadurch dass man die Wellen direkt mit den Schrittmotoren verbindet, wird das Backlash halbiert. Wegen den hohen Temperaturen im beheizten Druckraum mussten die Motoren sowieso nach außen. 7. Duet WiFi Habe die ganze Elektronik mit der Duet WiFi Platine getauscht. Die Platine ist übers WLAN steuerbar. Der Ulticontroller fällt weg. Duet WiFi ist RepRap, also kein Marlin mehr. Dieses finde ich um einiges besser. 8. Heated Chamber Eine sehr aufwendige Verbesserung ist der beheizte Druckraum, welcher bis zu 90°C heiß werden kann. Den UMO+ habe ich mit Polycarbonat-Panelen eingekleidet und zusätzlich isoliert. Zwei 500 Watt PTC-Heater erwärmen den Druckraum in rund 1 Stunde auf 90°C. Ein 14x5cm metallischer Hochtemperaturlüfter sitzt innerhalb der oberen Abdeckung und kühlt die Druckobjekte auf Glasübergangstemperatur. ABS und andere schwierig zu druckende Materialien lassen sich nun wie PLA drucken - kein Warping und Splitting mehr. veraltet (Peltier Kühlung fehlt) aktuell (mit Peltier Kühlung) 9. LED-Beleuchtung Damit man die Druckobjekte im dunklen Druckraum auch noch sehen kann, ist eine LED-Beleuchtung montiert worden. 10. GT3 statt MXL Die originalen Riemen am UMO+ haben das MXL-Profil. Der UM2 hat schon die neueren Riemen mit GT2-Profil, welche weniger Backlash aufzeigen. Mein UMO+ besitzt nun GT3-Riemen. Diese haben das selbe Profil wie GT2, sind jedoch 30% belastbarer (neuere Version der GT2). Meine sind die Gates PowerGrip GT3 Riemen. 11. Metrol End-Stop-Switch Der originale Z-Schalter wurde gegen einen hochwertigen der Firma Metrol getauscht, welcher 0.005mm genau ist. 12. Capricorn Bowden-Tubes Als Bowden-Tubes verwende ich nun die Capricorn TL-Series. Qualitativ hochwertig und passgenaue Durchmesser. 13. Softwareanpassung Viel Druckqualität kann man auch noch über die Software vom Duet bzw. durch Einstellungen rausholen, indem man z.B. die Beschleunigungswerte reduziert. Ein paar mehr Bilder und der Umbau einer E3D-V6 Düse auf Wasserkühlung findet ihr in den folgenden Kommentarseiten.
  11. 1 point
    Please contact your reseller and ask for 5.4.6 until the next update. While another firmware is coming, you can use it today. I have done so at a show. It will not be perfect but you will be able to use it.
  12. 1 point
    I tried doing this manually: cut both ends at 90° angles, hold them together in a custom device (see pic below), heat a knife in a flame, put the hot knife inbetween both filament ends and melt them, remove knife, push both molten ends together, and let cool. Then you need to grind away the flange at the seam, otherwise it will not pass through the bowden tube and nozzle. You need to melt both ends to get a good bonding, then it is almost as strong as new. This method works and can especially be usefull for artistic purposes: to melt lots of different colors together. But it is not worth the time and hassle for me. So I use the left-over ends for doing atomic pulls, or for other purposes where I need a bit of plastic. For example you can heat a left-over strand, and ply it around something else (think of cable binders). Or ply them into hooks or clamps, or whatever.
  13. 1 point
    Maybe there are different infill patterns, or infill percentages, in which the nozzle follows a different traject with less starts and stops, and less jumps? I don't know if this is possible, but just guessing. Check this in layer view in Cura, before printing.
  14. 1 point
    It appears that OpenGL is coming with the graphics drivers. OpenGL is a specification to which drivers and hardware have to adhere, it is not a driver by itself. I am just echoing what I read on internet here (and hope it is correct), I am not a programmer. :-) So the latest graphics driver should give the latest version, if the hardware supports it. And if the manufacturer delivers new drivers for your system. Search for: "windows how to update opengl". Also there might be incompatible or buggy drivers, so in such cases you might need to try a different version, higher or lower than your current version. I am not sure, but I vaguely remember something that this was the case with some Intel laptop drivers?
  15. 1 point
    The CC 0.6 core is not compatible with 1.75mm filament. A Cura (?) crash occuring when changing the filament diameter to 1.75mm is therefore probably not considered to be a bug with high priority to fix. Best thing you could do is to use 2.85mm material.
  16. 1 point
    Depending on how that web site constructs the geometry, I’m not surprised with there being problems. Fonts are designed primarily for rendering on a 2D surface where overlapping shapes do not matter. So the loops likely are defined by curves that cross through the stem. Naively extruding that shape into 3D leaves an area that intersects with itself, causing internal geometry which causes the slicer to confuse what is inside vs outside the solid.
  17. 1 point
    Cura uses openGL. This kind of thing happens all the time if your version of opengl installed on your computer is an older version or if your graphics card doesn't support some important (for cura) features of openGL. Try these things: 1) Update your graphics card to the latest driverss 2) Updating openGL to a newer version (I'm not sure if one can even do this or if you have to update the whole operating system?) 3) Try a different computer (seriously - it's a good intermediate test even if not a final solution for you).
  18. 1 point
    This is more or less normal and is no longer visible after the 2nd layer. The reason can be an uneven bed, a slightly thicker layer of glue stick is enough and the distance between nozzle and glass is a bit too low. You could also try to go a little lower with the temperature, this can also help.
  19. 1 point
    Good to hear it improved, do you have a Z offset for your PETG? Ridgid INK. Matterhackers and some other people highly recommend it, some even require it to print PETG. I haven't done it with my PETG prints but perhaps it would help for you, just offset it by 0.02 MM which will keep the nozzle a little more clear of any already laid down plastic, which in turn should help reduce the blobs.
  20. 1 point
    First of all print towards the edge of the printer that has the best support. Secondly, print much slower as Smithy suggests. Finally - look into ways to stabilize your print bed better. Use google to see what other people have done.
  21. 1 point
    You can try to print slower and check if all speeds are slow enough. Normally infill is printed quite faster than everything else, which could cause vibrations on higher objects.
  22. 1 point
    I'm torn about the font choice for Ultimaker though. I get the symmetrical U as a logo but the rest? hmm. I kinda prefer the other font it appeared more clean, new one seems just like a basic typed out font from dafont or some free site. Legal issue? whatever. minor quarm. Please change it back, you can leave the U if you like. Eurostile is a fav of mine, lolz.
  23. 1 point
    if you don't know this video yet, it may give you some more ideas (or at least it proves that a clean print is possible on Creality printers). Slicer profiles are linked in the video description: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_QRb54zVPfQ
  24. 1 point
    Hi, I have two printers, an Ultimaker3 and Ultimaker3 extended. They are setup as group with one of them being the host using the Cura Connect. In previous Cura version, when I pressed the button to "Print over network" it would popup a printer selection menu to choose which one to send the print to. Now after installing the Cura 4.3.0 this window does not pop up anymore and the print is send to the first available. This is inconvenient as I have different color material on each and I'd like to chose which one can print... Can you bring back that printer selection menu? Is there a setting somewhere to enable it back? Thanks Thanos
  25. 1 point
    Not sure if it's of any use but I currently have some ultimaker nylon parts in use in Arizona. They are being being subjected to water and the sun daily and not fairing well either structurally or dimensional y.
  26. 1 point
    I was doing manual leveling and follow it with active leveling once a time every month, mostly. No matter how i manual level the nozzles, whenever active leveling is done, the printer will always press nozzle 2 too close to buildplate once print is started. I can see the nozzle was so close that it got pushed back a bit upwards, so close that filament cannot print out of it. Core 1 will always be fine and well calibrated, while Core 2 will always be too close to bed, after active leveling. Either the active leveling is buggy, or the result of Z calibration between the 2 nozzles are not memorized by the machine. Is there a fix to this? I am not sure why this is happening. I suspect the distance between Nozzle 1 and Nozzle 2 somehow was wrong. Now I have to set the machine never to do active leveling, and rely on manual leveling. It will be great if there's a way to manually set the Z distance difference of the two cores in cases like this when the active leveling somehow failed?
  27. 1 point
    The first is typical if a section breaks away. All further layers printed over that area are printing on air, producing spaghetti or birds nests... the second looks about normal for PVA.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    All replacement patterns are reevaluated on an update. I don't want to update it too often, because updating eg on every setting change may slow things down. I'll come up with a solution. The replacement patterns (all of them) are also updated when a slice is done, so the gcode file you save/print will already have the properly updated prefix. Yes it will.
  30. 1 point
    at the left red arrow; buttons to select the extruder to use for the selected model at the right red arrow; where you can turn of/on a extruder In the detail setting you can also select a specific extruder for things like support, brim, infill etc...
  31. 1 point
    You see, I've been very busy at my new job lately...I've been directly involved in this project and we finally made a grand reveal to the world 🙂 https://youtu.be/jphG9n8nUSU
  32. 1 point
    Yes, no problem at all, the head on the GO is the same as on the Ultimaker2 (and yes I have one on my GO) And if you're upgrading, I would also change to this fan setup... https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-dual-fan-shroud
  33. 1 point
    @Kakos my understanding of what you are trying to do is make a vase with, say, 2 or 3 walls, and that the prior way you did that was to model, for example, a 5mm wall but then print with zero infil causing the wall to be hollow. But that also means the wall would grow to 10mm thick if you doubled the size of the vase. Hopefully I got that right. Another way to consider is: design the vase as a solid form. Not modeling the inside surface...only the outside. slice it with 0% infill, 2 walls, however many layers (or thickness) you want for the bottom, and 0 top layers. This will print exactly 2 walls, well bonded, a bottom, and no top. It also means that even with a complex wall shape, every slice will have exactly the number of walls you specify. The “Shell” command in Fusion 360 (don’t know what it’s called in other programs) is often used to creat constant thickness walls for this kind of model, but it creates a model where the distance is constant along the normals of each oint on the surface. A simple mold, for example, with a 10 degree slope and a shell 1.6mm thick produces a thickness in the slicing planes slightly less than 1.6mm...1.576mm. This can cause it to slice with, for example 3 walls instead of 4, and then try to fill the gap as infil.
  34. 1 point
    update, @SandervG suggested re-install the firmware, did it via USB this time, that seems to have fixed it, will check on a couple more prints. Thanks to @SandervG !
  35. 1 point
    What about changing your bonding method, so your prints can be removed easily? For PLA, I use the "salt method": wiping the glass with a tissue moistened with salt water, prior to printing. No glue. This gives good bonding while hot, but absolutely no bonding when the glass is cold. So, models can be taken off very easily. But this is only for PLA, and for low flat models (not for "lantern poles"). For my old manual, see here: https://www.uantwerpen.be/nl/personeel/geert-keteleer/manuals/ User neotko uses hairspray for bonding, and he removes his models by adding a few drops of window cleaner (if I remember well) when ready. This creeps under the models and dislodges them easily. This seems to work very well for his big models too. For wood glue, some people put the model and glass bed in the fridge, and then it pops off. Probably there will be other methods that are worth trying? With the salt method, I can easily print these models at 100% infill, without edges lifting, and without damaging them when taking off after completion.
  36. 1 point
    Since I did adjust this for my printers beginning this year I don't have huge discrepancies anymore. +-1% instead of +30% to 40% before what means minutes instead of hours for my printers.
  37. 1 point
    You can always check whether the printer will print correctly by looking at the preview tab. In this tab you see what the printer will do. You can however be relatively sure that yellow parts will just print.
  38. 1 point
    What you see on the print bed in Cura what you get
  39. 1 point
    The only suggestion I wanted to make is that you go for the cheapest as both types will work. As GR5 says, the old one delivers a bit more power but we as Ultimaker are not allowed to sell it anymore with new printers. The newer type is a bit more environmental friendly and will save a few cents in electricity.
  40. 1 point
    Interesting idea! I'd love to hear about your progress. if you need any specific advice on how to make the plugin, feel free to contact me.
  41. 1 point
    When my trick didn't fix the problem then I assume the power supply is damaged and you best replace it. There are several compatible power supplies: Mean Well GS220A24-R7B is the older model Mean Well GST220A24-R7B is the current model which complies to the latest regulations regarding efficiency and EMC radiation but has a slightly stricter output capacity (the load variation range is more limited). Both models will do the job, except that companies are not allowed to sell the older model anymore for new products. You as a consumer can buy the cheapest one you can find. As reference, here in Europe the new model is sold for €63 excl. VAT.
  42. 1 point
    There's 2 ways to fix this. One is to just turn off leveling. It's really a waste of your time as manual leveling is so simple and easy and you only have to do it when you swap out cores and usually not even then. If the nozzle levels too close usually it's because the spring in the core is weaker versus the spring in the bed. You need the core spring stronger because the leveling doesn't know you've hit the bed until it starts moving so if the core moves first then there is a problem. So loosen those 3 springs by turning the 3 knobs about 5 or 10 turns CCW (as seen from below). That might be too loose to level but try that first and do a manual level (mandatory if you move those screws that much) and then see if auto level is better after that. Don't loosen them too much. Another solution is to remove the "bad" core. Remove that one screw in the clear plastic part, take the spring out and stretch it such that it is about 5mm longer. Put it all back together and it will work great for another few years.
  43. 1 point
    Don't worry. A lot of the people working at Ultimaker still have "the small guys / girls" at heart. Probably because most of them used to be on the other side before. So even if the recently announced products don't match up with the expectations of that part of the market, it's by no means an indication that we forgot about all the other parts.
  44. 1 point
    A printer rebooting during the build plate heating up is almost certain a power supply problem. During the first phase of heating up, till about 50C, the power supply is stretched to its limits. Since everything was working smoothly before and now not anymore, what did you change with respect to the power supply block? Did you perhaps switch the power supply block with that from another printer? Did the ambient temperature in the room change? Perhaps the power supply block gets warm because it is now in the sun or next to an active heater? When nothing was changed and none of the above questions applies, then perhaps you have a power supply block that's at the lower end of the specifications. Contact your reseller if warranty applies. There is also a software workaround when you are brave enough to change a configuration file on the printer... - Enable developer mode from the menu - Open an SSH connection to the printer - log in as root / ultimaker - type: vi /usr/share/griffin/griffin/machines/um3.json - Scroll down to line 102 - Change the maximum power supply wattage from 221 to 200 (first press the 'insert' key to be able to insert new text). - exit the editor by typing after each other the 4 keys: 'ESC : w q' - exit the SSH connection by typing: exit - reboot the printer
  45. 1 point
    I'm now waiting almost a month for the requested log files.... 😪 Without the log files I can't convince our management to put the probem high on the actions list. Please people. help me helping you! This works two ways. You correctly complain about problems, but when I want to help you, you should give me some pointers. Please mail me the log files using the message function of this forum (hover over my name next to this post and from the menu that pops up select the 'message' option). Create the log files by performing an Active Leveling function and then from the Maintenance menu choose the option 'Dump logs to USB'. Ensure to include all generated files, including the probe report files.
  46. 1 point
    here's the situation: Z Distance between the nozzle in Core 1 and Core 2 seemed not remembered by the firmware, or it is ignored during print, or something went wrong during calibration. Core 1 will always be well calibrated and printing well, however, Core 2 will always got pressed too close to the bed that blocks the filaments from coming out. After Active leveling, Core 2 nozzle always pressed too close the bed during print, as if it is ignoring the result done during calibration.. after running more of tests, it seems that Manual Leveling does not have this issue. I have done a lot of tests, switching print cores(i have purchased one extra print core), and the result is the same. So i guess it is not the problem of the print cores but something is wrong with the machine doing Z calibration. And it seemd to me the machine is ignoring the Z calibration that is done in active leveling, so every time when print started, it went all the way pressing nozzle too close to bed again. Not sure if this is a firmware issue but i would like to post here to see if it shines any clues. Some other users also have this similar problem and is forced to print on one nozzle (Core 1), unless one kept doing manual leveling and forces the machine to never do auto leveling thus not to override manual leveling setting. And this seemed to happen fairly recently, so i guess it could be something about the latest firmware update.
  47. 1 point
    Melde mich wieder mal mit 2 kleinen Änderungen/Verbesserungen an meinem UMO+. Mittlerweile ist er ein wirkliches ABS Arbeitstier und druckt zuverlässig stundenlang mit 90°C im Druckraum. Alle Probleme, die ich mit dem Heated Chamber hatte sind nun beseitigt. Der Raum, wo der Drucker steht, heizt sich auch immer richtig mit auf, der Stromverbrauch ist mit den zwei 500 Watt Heizungen auch nicht mehr so gering und die 17 verbauten Lüfter sind auch nicht gerade flüsterleise. Aber was solls 🙂 Die Wasserkühlung musste verbessert werden und wird jetzt aktiv mit einem Peltier-Element runter gekühlt. Außerdem sind die Schläuche im Druckraum isoliert worden. Das Wasser wird nun nur noch maximal 34°C warm (10°C kühler als zuvor). Also nur noch ca. 7°C wärmer als Raumtemperatur - ziemlich gut. Außerdem sind die Extruder und Extrudermotoren immer zu heiß geworden, da sie an einer kritischen Stelle sitzen, wo ein bisschen 90°C heiße Luft vom Druckraum entweicht. Die Rädchen, die sich ins Filament reinbeißen und dieses befördern sind also auch ziemlich heiß geworden und das gab nach längeren Drucken paar Probleme, wie man sich vorstellen kann. Jetzt sind jeweils 2 Lüfter and den Extrudern montiert worden und das Problem wurde beseitigt.
  48. 1 point
    Go to C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura 4.1. Right click on Cura.exe and go to the "compatibility" tab. Choose which version of Windows you have in the drop down list. (Note: For Windows 10 choose Windows 8 ) Hopefully that fixes it for you.
  49. 1 point
    Dachte die Motoren werden auch mit 24V betrieben. Wenn nicht, dann darf man das natürlich nicht so zusammenrechnen. Da hast du dann recht. Aber egal. Ich kauf mir um ein paar € so einen Leistungsmesser und werde einfach das originale Netzteil weiter verwenden. Das Netzteil wird ja nicht kaputt gehen, wenn der Verbraucher mehr Watt ziehen will, als dass das Netzteil ausgelegt ist? Es wird einfach nicht mehr als 221 Watt hergeben? Oder liege ich da falsch? Und wenn der Leistungsmesser dann 221 Watt anzeigt, weiß man, dass es über dem Limit ist und eigentlich mehr Leistung benötigt wird --> Dann kauf ich mir ein 2. Netzteil mit Mosfetschaltung. Dann kann ich auch verschiedene Situationen anschauen; z.B. wie viel Watt der Drucker beim Aufheizen mit gehaltenen Motoren zieht - also den Extremfall.
  50. 1 point
    Ob Ampere oder Watt; kommt ja aufs selbe wenn die Spannung gleich ist. Ja mein Netzteil ist 24V mit 9,2A bzw. 221W. Ich könnte mir ein zusätzliches billiges 15A Netzteil mit guten Bewertungen auf Amazon kaufen. Dieses verwende ich dann nur für das Heizbett, welches mit nem MOSFET gesteuert wird. Theoretisch könnte ich das 15A Netzteil dann gleich alleine für den kompletten 3D Drucker nehmen aber das traue ich einem China Netzteil für ein paar € nicht zu. Will jetzt auch nicht 100€ für ein gutes Netzteil ausgeben. Jedoch hat der Ultimaker 3 genau die gleichen Netzteil-Leistungsdaten. Und der hat auch dual extrusion also einen zusätzlichen Extrudermotor (ok, eigentlich läuft immer nur 1 Extruder...), 2 Heizblöcke und viel LED Beleuchtung. Also sollte das doch ohne Probleme am UMO+ auch gehen. Als einziges habe ich die XY-Motorströme auf 1300mA erhöht, eine kleine LED Beleuchtung eingebaut und 40 Watt Heizpatronen in Verwendung. Die Wasserkühlung hängt an einer separaten Stromquelle.
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