Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/18/2021 in Posts

  1. Hi guys. I have just updated to version 4.8 and the issue was solved. No idea but it worked. Thanks for all the help and for everyone to reach to me to offer me a slice version for my printer. As well thanks to @GregValiant and @Torgeir for the troubleshooting here. I am amazed by the wonderful community here!
    3 points
  2. Small two-story office building for model railroad. Pieces were built with both the S5 and the Prusa I3.
    2 points
  3. Paints usually belong in an eco-system: Acrylics with acrylics and solvent based with solvent based. Also, making sure what will bind, will bind well. Also there are brand based ecosystems. Also, usually you can paint acrylics on a good primer base and then solvent based on top of that will usually work. This allow me to paint with an acrylic primer and then paint with any solvent based paint. In this print I used only the paints with the same base properties (as well as a brand based eco-system). These paints are part of the Dupli-Color anodized paint series. They prov
    2 points
  4. Hi unfortunately I don't think this is possible. I can remember that someone asked the same question in the past and there was no solution for it.
    2 points
  5. You meant "curaengine.exe". Actually getting curaengine to slice with a full profile is not trivial, but can be done.
    2 points
  6. A part like this needs Z-hops because when the 55mm hole starts to come together its large radius creates feathered edges that want to curl up as they cool. I've printed this part a couple of times and I compromised at .5 for the hop height. That's too much for the bottom and not quite enough for the top. I added a utility to my printing app (modestly called Greg's Toolbox) and I can adjust the Z-hop height in a file. So in the case of this particular part I slice the file with Z-hops at 1.0 and then have the utility open the G-code file and adjust the Z-hop height for layers 0 to 430
    1 point
  7. Whoops. That was a typo on my end! But yeah we could setup a discord server if there is interest for it.
    1 point
  8. Someone please help.... I am desperate ... I have this error message: An unspecified error has occurred in the motion controller. Restored to default settings. This message appears just before its started to print. So after the bed levelling and pre warmup. What I have done so far, not in order and maybe I missed a few things: restored to default settings reset to factory settings calibrated lift switch downgraded firm where from 5.8.2 to 5.8.1 upgraded to 6.1.0 contacted ultimate distributor. was told to clean it. cleaned it again. still same proble
    1 point
  9. I found out it was my router/modem from xfinity. Realized that I couldn't share information across computers on my network and the utlimaker wasn't connecting to the cloud. Had to reset the connection settings but it worked.
    1 point
  10. Our material engineers do seem to think so 🙂
    1 point
  11. I tend to just use the preview and look at the "speeds" color scheme. Since the outer walls are normally at the same speed, you should be in a single color. Areas where this is not the case are due to the min layer time kicked in.
    1 point
  12. Since nobody asked, I thought I would share a few things I have picked up. As I try new things I will probably tack it onto the end of this. My hope is that some of you find this instructive and I will point you to a variety of sources that I pulled information from. For the most part, I prime my prints with a black matte and then sometimes I mist white onto the print to help illuminate shape. I also am not a representative of any paints that I talk about. Just things I have played with. First, why I think things like the Polyalchemy style of 'silky looking' prints, and why I also
    1 point
  13. @curasurf It should be fixed now! You need to select the tag first, and can then set that as the prefix.
    1 point
  14. I don't really see a reason why it shouldn't be hopping on first glance. Could be a bug.
    1 point
  15. @curasurf - you are totally correct. Multiply those 3 numbers to get the volumetric flow. If the volumetric flow is constant then the speed of the extruder is constant and the flow is constant. However of course you slow down on corners. the printer doesn't actually go at the full speed requested. It slows down on every corner based on the individual printers setting for "jerk" and acceleration. Also when there is a travel move, flow goes to zero briefly.
    1 point
  16. Hallo Cura braucht die doppelte Nozzle bzw. Linienbreite um das ordentlich zu generieren. Wenn du die Wandstärke in den kreis genauso breit machst wie die länglichen gibt es keine Probleme mit doppelten fahren oder zick zack. Also Cura kann es nicht auf Linienbreite mit einer Linie zu drucken Soll aber umgebaut werden: Zwecks Thema "Arc Welder" G2/G3 und Video: Also die Datei Größe ist jetzt nur der zweitrangig warum mich das interessiert. Viel vorteilhafter soll es für die Firmware sein, für die Wegeplanung Beschleunigung Jerk usw.
    1 point
  17. FACEPALM Nevermind. I figured out the issue. I had a reference block set to hidden that I absolutely forgot was there, and was exporting the entire scene from blender instead of the selected model. Ignore this post. I resolved it myself.
    1 point
  18. Hi @eclaurence sorry for my late response. First I tried to slice your model in our Arachne release and there the walls are printed from inside to outside. You can read here more about our Arachne release. But in 4.8 you should enable Optimize Wall Printing Order. Please let me know if this works for you.
    1 point
  19. Hallo, zum Thema "Kreisbahn" gab es bei Youtube demletzt mal ein interessantes Video zu einem Cura-Addon. Einfach mal bei Youtube nach "Arc Welder. Braucht man das?" vom User "sehertest" suchen. Grüße, Gebbi
    1 point
  20. You are right, I was not aware that the original author is not able to do it. I will report it to the forum admin, maybe he can enable it somehow.
    1 point
  21. Enable travel moves in the preview screen and then you have light blue and dark blue lines. One is a retracted travel move, the other one not. I don't know at the moment which color is what.
    1 point
  22. I actually think i fixed this. The glass plate was about an eighth of an inch off from back to front. Leveling would complete with no errors and print would just end. I manually adjusted the build plate to be a bit more level and it is now printing. The bug is, the machine should be throwing a leveling error but it is not. It just pretends like it is ok and prints nothing at all and cura states print complete.
    1 point
  23. My brand of PET does not like traveling through the air, not for bridging, and not for crossing gaps to the next part. There are two problems: 1) It does not pull a nice long string for bridging, contrary to PLA: PET tends to snap and scroll back onto its own, like a rubber band that snaps. This causes a blob hanging on the nozzle, instead of a bridge. 2) When liquid, PET is more rubbery than PLA. So, when crossing gaps, the pressure does not release as fast in the nozzle, causing the nozzle to leak a bit more while traveling over gaps. In both cases, the bl
    1 point
  24. Yes I'm familiar with the "dragging across lower line and snapping". I've seen it many times. Cura tends to make infill at like 2X printing speed so I'd try even slower - 20% - just to see what happens. Also you want the fan as low as possible but still turning. Check your infill line width! I didn't think of that - but cura can do some really stupid things like setting that to a different value than the rest of the print. Make sure it is the same as your normal line width. Or wider. It could just be a bad brand of filament? Different types of p
    1 point
  25. With the Initial Fan Speed set to 100% and Regular Fan Speed Height at 0 (Cura layer 1) you should see this in the Gcode as the fan should be at 100% right from the start. ;LAYER:0 M106 S255 ;Layer cooling fan at 100% ;TYPE:SKIRT Using the settings you show you will see something like this. ;LAYER:0 M107 ;Layer cooling fan off ;TYPE:SKIRT then later... ;LAYER:1 M106 S255 ;Layer cooling fan 100% ;TYPE:SUPPORT Open the Gcode file and search for M106. The units are PWM so they can be from 0 (0%) to 255 (100%). If they are there, and if you ca
    1 point
  26. When I export an STL file the only requirement is that it is in the positive octant. Exactly where in the octant doesn't matter. I don't know whether or not there is any location information in the file. Mostly I don't pay attention to where the part is in space so long as it is legal for the STL translator. If I need to make an assembly in Cura then Cura has to be fooled. I create a model build plate 1mm thick and larger than the assembly (up to 230 x 230 for my Ender 3 pro) in the CAD software so that my assembled parts are on the top surface and within the periphery of the p
    1 point
  27. **PROBLEM SOLVED** OVEREXTRUSION I just tried one more test print with the same object file from Autodesk Fusion 360 and used medium refinement to convert to Cura. Within Cura I used all the same settings for Generic CPE accept for the Initial Layer Flow. After analyzing the bottom of the prints and creases on them I noticed that it looked a lot like too much filament was flowing with nowhere to go but on top of itself (causing creases) so I lowered the Initial Layer Flow from 100% down to 75% and yielded these results shown in this picture with clear PETG. This is my first test with
    1 point
  28. If you will post the stl file and do a Save Project and post the 3mf file somebody can take a look. Did you happen to have Adaptive Layers turned on? It might be a feature of the "Dynamic Quality" .16 layer height profile.
    1 point
  29. If you have Special Modes | Print Sequence | "One at a time" enabled then it's the area your print head takes up. You can't put another part in the gray or the print head will hit it when it lowers to print the next part. That's actually true for people who bother to keep the Print Head size and Gantry Height up to date in the settings. Disallowed areas for brim/skirt are around the periphery and if you have them shut off then the gray doesn't show. With that piece you're printing another model would have to be the shape of a piece of linguini. (I was going to say spaghetti but
    1 point
  30. Jedes Material ist anders und man kann auch nicht sagen, dass PLA gleich PLA ist oder PETG gleich PETG. Jeder Hersteller hat andere Rezepturen und daraus ergibt sich dann eine andere Drucktemperatur. Du musst aufpassen nicht zu schnell zu drucken. Ich drucke auf meinem S3 meistens mit max. 40mm/sec, nicht weil ich sonst verstopfte Düsen bekommen, aber das Druckergebnis ist einfach um einiges schöner und genauer. Ich empfehle auch die anderen Speed Settings einzublenden und die Geschwindigkeiten alle auf den gleichen Wert zu setzen. Also inner Wall, Outer Wall, Infill etc. nur die
    1 point
  31. I feel your pain, I really struggle with some objects staying on their supports in Cura. For most things, I use Cura. For prints that really need great supports, I rely on S3D. I also find the method to manually add or remove them way easier. However, I am trying to learn Cura's methods...especially the tree supports
    1 point
  32. Thanks - yes, that worked although I had to do it via trial and error. Certainly changing orientation changes the degree of zig-zag. It seems that the orientation of the zig-zag doesn't relate to the model, but to the base grid. As always, thanks again
    1 point
  33. Hey all! Here's some background story. I've been using Ultimaker Original for about 3 days and I want to change the filaments. However, I do not know how to do it. I searched all over the Internet and I couldn't find an answer. If anyone knows how to do it and could tell me, it will be appreciated!
    1 point
  34. Yes, that's the blue clip and white collet I meant. The hotend needs to be hot (around printing temperature for the filament), otherwise the material wil stop you from removing the bowdentube. You have to keep pressing the white collet down while gently - yet firmly - pulling the bowden tube out. Keep the hotend in a corner of the gantry in order to minimise the chance of the axes bending under the strain.
    1 point
  35. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling. Other view directions of the full piece. I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products. The hair w
    1 point
  36. CuraEngine adds that. And it does so because in 99% of the cases (if not more), it is a good idea to do so. The workaround is to use the PostProcessing plugin to remove or replace that command.
    1 point
  37. More replies: https://www.formfutura.com/shop/product/reform-rpla-2838 Nylon fish nets recycled to filament: https://fishyfilaments.com/ Note that PLA gives you the best quality prints and is the easiest to print. Other plastics need higher temperatures and if they are printed at higher temperatures then they shrink more as they cool and start to get more difficult if you don't have a heated bed or might even need a heated chamber. What kind of printer do you have? Does it print higher temp materials than just PLA?
    1 point
  38. I think this is what you want HERE. You copy and paste a bunch of lines from the log file (that you download), and paste it into your Machine Settings End-Gcode. It's an older file and you might have to cross-reference the keywords to make sure they are all included and that none have been deprecated (they are HERE). The plan is that when you generate a gcode file all the keywords get replaced by the actual values from the settings in Cura. I haven't used it (too much information) but it looks like it would be laid out nice and neat without all the newline characters that are in the pa
    1 point
  39. Thanks for confirming. If the nslookup indicates that AD is involved in DNS I think we have found the issue. Ultimaker also runs AD and we experience similar issues under certain circumstances, but this confirmation that it also happens on your AD controlled network helps us to get to the core of the problem. I know the embedded software team and our own IT department are looking into this particular issue, so once they have some information I'll be sure to share it with you. This could for example be a guide that explains what to configure in AD to make it work co
    1 point
  40. CC core received. The UM3 accepts it but warns it's not compatible with selected material (PLA), which seems strange but you just continue as normal. Cura on the otherhand, whilst it can see the CC 0.6 on the printer, doesn't allow you to select it (And playing around with a S3, the CC core is missing from the dropdown list when using custom settings). To fix this: 1. Rename/copy/backup the file ultimaker_s3_cc06.inst.cfg found in: /Applications/Ultimaker Cura.app/Contents/Resources/resources/variants (This is on a Mac) to ultimaker3_
    1 point
  41. The "Check for account updates" button synchronizes Marketplace plugins and materials that were either added to Cura while signed-in, or those added via marketplace.ultimaker.com. However, you can achieve the desired effect of synchronizing all Cura settings (including custom profiles) by using the "Cura Backups" plugin, available in the "extensions" menu. Simply create a backup on one machine, and then restore it on another. This will copy over all the settings.
    1 point
  42. Finally got my Covid Mask done! Thought I would share it. Not my design of course. I cobbled together a few other files to create this one. (I'm sure you've all seen these Alien masks around?) Took a long time and a lot of assembly. But fun!! Now to just get the courage up to wear it in public. LOL
    1 point
  43. A few days ago I figured it out, so it may help you too! When I created a pause in cura, it worked except when the print head returned to the model it left a blob again. I fixed the issue by opening the gcode in a text editor and deleting a line in the code as you can see in the picture, it’s highlighted in blue. This didn’t change anything except the blob of plastic was never extruded, and my print came out perfect! This might also work with the change filament script, but I haven’t tried it yet.
    1 point
  44. If you meant "compatible material diameter", this didn't have any effect. But I solved this by adding command M92 to the start of my gcode. (Reseting printer will return extrusion setting back to normal.) Info for other zmorph VX paste extruder users through Cura: Right now I'm using code M92 E11 in the start of gcode with a flow setting of 45%. This is with original 100ml syringe and 2mm nozzle. Thank you for answers!
    1 point
  45. Hi all! I'm using a paste extruder with a 2mm nozzle. It doesn't have gearing so I'm needing about 2,5% of flow to get proper extrusion. Cura however counts under 5% flow as an error. I can make the first layer right by using Initial layer flow, but I'd be interested in making 3D prints with paste. Stuff I've tried: -Increasing compatible material diameter from machine settings. (Didn't do anything) -Setting "initial bottom layers" to 100 so every layer would be initial. (Turns out that there are multiple settings for "initial layers" that are independent, this setting was for she
    1 point
  46. I see now videos, but the sound is different when printing circles. I can remember my wife said "Why is the printer singing?" And at this time a circle was printed. So also without the chance to hear it, I would say it is normal.
    1 point
  47. just a wag, try: "material_print_temperature_layer_0" ...from the fdmprinter.def.json file...
    1 point
  48. Hi, first - thanks for the excellent work on cura. I'm missing the extruder setup as well - since I've upgraded to v12 i had nonstop problems with printing until I discovered that I'm overfeeding. I would be very happy to see the feature back if possible :-).
    1 point
  49. Older versions of Cura used to have this mode where you could get the Ultimaker to feed 10cm of plastic, measure the actual length fed and then use this to calibrate the extruder feed rate. I can't find this on the later versions. Has the feature been withdrawn, or am I not looking in in the right place?
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...