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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/19/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    Those three sentences are so absolutely, completely and irremediably wrong, up to a point that it pains me to read them. If there is one thing I learned after nearly 15 years of work in customer-related positions and in retail, it is that, no matter how well documented something is, or how failsafe you think you made your product, some fool will find a way to break it in ways that aren't supposed to be possible. Or will do something that is explicitly marked as 'DO NOT DO THIS!' on the documentation with big red flashing lights, because they didn't read it, skimmed through the documentation or something alike. And, as Murphy's Law would have it, the more detailed your documentation, the more people will break your product. Then they'll say that they aren't at fault, that the documentation wasn't clear enough. Let me share some personal experience: I sold mobile phones for years in a small shop. Back before the advent of smartphones and touchscreens, phones used to have a pretty extensive documentation; thick booklets included in the package, sometimes as thick or thicker than the phone itself. Many of those documentations also showed to the users, using pictures on the very first five pages or so, how to open the phone, place the sim card (and the memory card if there was a slot for it), battery, and then close it back. I've lost count of the number of people who managed to damage their phone right after buying it by trying to put the sim card or battery the wrong way, or place the sim card into the memory card slot, even though most memory cards were maybe a quarter the size of a sim card and not the same shape anyway. It wouldn't fit, then they would use their strength to force it in because they cannot be wrong, obviously, and end breaking something and come back to complain. And even when shown the nice clear pictures in the instruction booklet, they would complain that the pictures and text aren't clear enough, and ask for a refund or an exchange since, obviously, it's not their fault but ours as reseller or the manufacturer's for not being clear enough. So, while I have absolutely no idea what SSH is or means or what it is used for, if giving access to it is opening the door to potentially bricking the printers, then I fully understand why UM is saving themselves the headaches by not supporting it. You can never make anything failsafe, no matter how detailed and clear and concise your documentation is. I printed many engineered objects in Nylon, and other materials, on my UM3E since I got it last year, I never once even had to calibrate the steps, and my customers have always been very happy with the results. I printed a couple of prototypes and a handful of parts for use, including some things for the engine of a car or a motorbike, I don't remember exactly, and the customer told me that they fit nicely in the engine. Maybe you got unlucky and had the one in a million or so printer that wasn't calibrated right? That they choose to only provide support for the appimage and not the PPA is their right. That decision certainly has valid grounds for UM and was probably taken after a lengthy analysis by the people in charge at UM. Besides, the fact that they do not support versions of their open source software that isn't produced by themselves seems very normal to me. I don't see why they would provide support for the PPA made by Lulzbot since Lulzbot isn't part or related to UM in anyway. Or even to a version of the program done by an employee on their free time, since that version never went through the thorough internal process of testing and vetting and such. I disagree that UM does not have the willingness to listen to their customers. We have this forum where we can talk to them, and they usually reply with speed and efficiency, reaching out to people who post complaints or troubles here in a very short time usually. SandervG and a handful of others from the company are very active here, and questions and comments are forwarded to the relevant people inside the company, with some of them logging in to give the answers and other replying through SandervG. Of course, sometimes the answer or reaction from UM isn't what we expect or what we would like. But they are here, they do listen to us, and I would say that I know very little companies with such an active team, or even companies who have gone to the length of putting up a forum such as this one for their users and customers. @RudydG I concur with Smithy: that is a very nice set-up you have! ^^
  2. 5 points
  3. 5 points
    As I can't remember what the settings are called, I normally do show all settings and just accept that I have to scroll up and down a lot.
  4. 4 points
    Hello everyone and Merry Xmas!! What better way to incorporate parametric design learning/teaching and Christmas holiday spirits than some candy cane scripting. Sure it can be done by hand as well but the best way to get a grip on your parametric skills is to use it also for more seasonal holiday spirit and instant satisfaction reward. I have been using 3D printing just before the holidays at work to simulate and engage my colleagues to learn basic parametric design and get a grip on Grasshopper. Here are the results hanging in the little tree. I think it was a very fruitful workshop and I was quite surprised with the results. As an Xmas special freeby for the community I have attached the parametric candy canes I made for this workshop and there are 7 of them. For those of you who want the script and want to see more in detail how this was done you can follow this link https://www.dineadesign.com/2018/12/24/xmas-candy-canes/ -- however here I would keep it more 3D printing related. So to start, import the candy cane you want to print and then select the model and create Ctrl+M to multiply --- make one copy 🙂 Next what you want to do is rotate the Y axis 180 degrees. Select both models and move the models on the Z axis by Z total height /2 in this case = -8 mm Now just print and super glue together and you have yourself a fast printed curly candy cane for your tree. How would you print this? Let me know! CANDY6.stl CANDY1.stl CANDY2.stl CANDY3.stl CANDY4.stl CANDY5.stl CANDY6.stl
  5. 4 points
    In the last months I tried several storage solutions for my the print cores, but either they didn't fit or it was not practical. Most storage solutions have the problem, that they are open and dust can easily get into the core which is not good at all. Some days ago I had an idea, to put my print cores in an Ikea Skadis container mounted on my pegboard. Inside this container, I designed a print core holder which is based on @ultiarjan version and holds 3 cores per container. Here are some pictures: The cores are now stored in a safe place, protected from dust and can be easily accessed. Ikea Skadis container: https://www.ikea.com/at/de/p/skadis-behaelter-mit-deckel-weiss-80335909/ @ultiarjan print core holder: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/core-case-for-ultimaker3-core-s And finally, the redesigned version which fits into the Skadis container: Skadis Print Core.stl
  6. 3 points
    This is the stuff I'm finishing for 2019, they are hairpins in two colors that I do with an advanced Pause script that allows me to Atomic plug the filament totally unmanned and waits for me until I go to change the color and click resume. Ofc this is all thanks to Duet3D advanced pause that has Gcode to resume previous position and even Fan, hotend, etc temperatures. What's needed to make a plugging out of this? - Manual setting to define layer number (I know this already exists) - Script to insert the Previous temperature/FanSpeed & Position set by the slicer (so any changes while paused can be resumed if the user needs to move Z, move X/Y or prehead the nozzle to clean any previous color residue. This is important to resume the print without temporal changes affecting the real print. - Area to define custom gcode - for the Atomic - so the users can adjust the atomic pull sequence for their extruders. Mind that I use DirectDrive so I can change the color pretty fast without issues because also my extruder isn't behind the machine or hard to access. Mind that the M106 R1 or G4 S5 are specific Duet3D gcodes, so this can't be just copy-paste into a normal gcode print without manual editing. That's why ideally Cura could have a plugging to mimic all the automatic steps in order to make it user friendly. Check my twitter posts to see videos of how the process works: This is the post I made on Duet3D forums: For this, first I had to find the perfect momento to pause on the gcode. I use Skirt with 12 layers (the same amount of layers for the Pause layer) with 5mm distance and 2 Skirt Outlines (but I suppose for really tall prints it might be better to use 3). Then I do a search on the gcode (mind I use S3D) of the last "; skirt" Then I find something like this: ; skirt G1 X98.056 Y59.801 F10800 G1 Z2.480 F1500 G1 E0.0000 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X99.094 Y59.554 E0.0355 F4200 G1 X99.106 Y59.551 E0.0359 Being that last G1 the beginning of the Skirt Print So I ADD the M25 to do a Pause ; skirt G1 X98.056 Y59.801 F10800 G1 Z2.480 F1500 G1 E0.0000 F1500 G92 E0 G1 X99.094 Y59.554 E0.0355 F4200 M25 ; Pause REPEAT Speed of previous line on next so it knows what speed to resume G1 X99.106 Y59.551 E0.0359 F4200 ; ADDED F4200 HERE Doing this I can be sure that the extruder was on top of the Skirt before doing the pause, so if the filament Strings it won't dirt my print. Then the rest it's on the Duet3D macros. I edited my pause.g to work like this: ; pause.g ; called when a print from SD card is paused M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E-3 F3600 ; retract 10mm of filament G91 ; relative positioning G1 Z5 F360 ; lift Z by 5mm G90 ; absolute positioning G1 X15 Y15 F10000 ; go to X=15 Y=15 M104 S120 T0 ; Sets to a generic LOW TEMP before calling PLAColdpull Macro G1 E5 F1600 ; Keeps pressure FAST Initial recovers from retract also M98 Preversecowmilking.g ; Calls the COLDPULL macro This is what I do on Resume.g ; resume.g ; called before a print from SD card is resumed M104 S225 T0 ; Sets general Print temp for PLA M109 S225 T0 ; Waits until it reaches 225 for PLA M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E5 F100 ; Purgues 5mm where it was paused slow to realign gears G1 E5 F300 ; Purgues 5mm where it was paused normal G1 E-1 F2000 ; retracts 1mm before moving to resumed position G1 R1 Z1 F6000 ; go to 5mm above position of the last print move G1 R1 ; go back to the last print move M83 ; relative extruder moves And This is my ReverseCowMilking Macro (automated Coldpull) I add this macro on the SYSTEM area, otherwise I wasn't able to call it but I'm using an old 1.20RC3 version of the firmware so probably just an old bug ;reversecowmilking.g ; Semi automated coldpull for PLA M106 S200 ; SET FANS UP G10 P0 R70 S70 G4 S35 ; Wait 35 secs so the temperature reaches 160-170 if was a 225 M302 P1 ; ALLOW COLD EXTRUSIONS just in case G1 E2 F15 ; Push 2mm slow to keep pressure at semi able temperature M116 ; WAIT FOR TEMPERATURES SET TO ARRIVE before continuing M106 S0 ; SET FANS OFF G4 S5 ; wait for internal temperature to stabilize along filament ; starts milking the cow movement G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.2 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.4 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.6 M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-0.3 F100 ; retracts 0.3mm G1 E0.1 F2000 ; reajusts 0.1mm - total 0.8 - Enough to dislock filament from hotend M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover & avoid grinding G1 E-10 F50 ; retracts 10mm SLOW - To avoid breaking if bond if weak M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover G1 E-20 F800 ; retracts 20mm medium speed - Should keep integrity M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover G1 E-30 F2000 ; retracts 30mm fast - Should be able M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover ;G1 E-30 F2000 ; retracts 30mm ;M18 E0 ; Unlocks feeder ;G4 P500 ; half a sec to allow filament tension to recover M302 P0 ; DONT ALLOW COLD EXTRUSIONS M106 R1 ; RESTORE FAN SPEED BEFORE THE PAUSE NOTES I use directdrive with zge extruder, so the force, speed of the coldpull and timing should be totally different for bowden. I release the feeder constantly to allow the filament natural elasticity to go back so I can avoid grinding the filament I use Bondtech drivegears, so the filament grip it's perfect at all times. Macro comments might not be accurate because I been adjusting this many times until I was able to achieve enough repeatability on my 3 printers. Happy 2019 & enjoy printing
  7. 3 points
    Yes i think thas the name! Tulle Its lots of fun and so many posibilities, i will try dual colour next and then weirder shapes. And patterns.
  8. 3 points
    My setup of the S5, i found a very nice cabinet with wheels, Ikea https://www.ikea.com/be/nl/producten/opbergmeubelen/ladeblokken-bureauopbergers/bekant-opbergmeubel-op-wielen-draadwerk-wit-spr-09282547/ Suits me very well, easy acces because you can turn the cabinet to acces the back of the printer, and the right height (deskheight is to low, this is 1mtr, ideal!!) At the backside, i have the "normal" spool attachement, and also a drybox for the moisture sensitive filament. At this moment i am using the last of a roll breakaway, and a roll of Polymax Pla (=tough pla) .
  9. 3 points
    My S5 works perfect and i have yet to have any prints fail and i'm up to 70days of running hours on the hot end, problem is due to end user not using supported software. My only problem is with the lack of aluminum build plate but that don't stop it from being a great printer that can just keep printing over and over none stop.
  10. 3 points
    I live in a very humidy city, Rio de Janeiro, and I had a cheap humidity meter that had very low tolerance, about + or - 8% but it broked, realy bad quality one. Nowadays I use another one, still cheap compared to the professional ones but the values are much closer to the official mesurement made by climatic organ in my city, they mesure in my neighbohood so it’s a good source to compare. I believe it have + or - 3% accurancy but it just work to me to know when to dry my silica gel and maintain the humidy of the filament. During these years I learned that silica gel only dryes the outter area of the filament, inside still humity and the only way to eliminate it is heating (IMPORTANT: below the glass temperature of the filament to don’t destroy your filament properties) and with air circulation spining around the roll or filament peace. For this one the best choice should be a PrintDry (https://www.printdry.com/) and they pointed in their website how it works: view photos or check full info in this link https://www.printdry.com/science And the last photo attached is a information about hygroscopic materials, it’s missing TPU information that I believe it’s very hygroscopic but not as much as Nylor or PVA. I’m seeing some guys using food dehydrator to dry filamets, that’s should be a cheaper choice but need some ajustments to fit the rolls as showned in this recently 3DMN video: I hope those informations helps anyone!
  11. 3 points
    Well stated .... To be clear...... I remain “very” troubled by Ultimaker’s cavalier presentation after being told by Ultimaker “prior” to the Ultimaker S5 purchase how “significant” the aluminum build plate was as well as how much time had been put into the development of it. Prior to purchasing the Ultimaker S5 I asked Ultimaker if retrofiting one for the Ultimaker 3 was being considered and I was quickly told that it would remain an Ultimaker S5 exclusive sharing that the associated development cost for the aluminum build plate was high and spanned a multi year development period of time. I was also told that the build plate heating system on the Ultimaker S5 was specifically designed to work with both the glass and aluminum built plates as evidenced within the menu options and the operation manual. This was one of the unique features incorporated into Ultimaker’s most expensive printer as well as, their initial business class printer offering. I was assured that releasing the Ultimaker S5 was a very methodical process because it was thoroughly tested over a couple years. Additionally, that the Ultimaker S5 was Ultimaker’s first printer with future expandability designed into it. in any case.......... Thank you for your comments.
  12. 3 points
    Another feedback is to have the list of Print settings (windows/drop down) flexible so you can enlarge it. A expend all settings button as well.
  13. 2 points
    My first experiment with this that i saw on youtube somewhere. My friend asked me to give it a go and this is just some cloned beveled triangles arranged with enough room for flex of the thickness of the mosaic. Annoying to remove but not too bad. Easy to print. Worked first time.
  14. 2 points
    I just want to share the outcome of several ordered, returned and tested boxes for single filament spools. For the storage of more sensitive materials I looked for a single box solution, because the bigger boxes need to much space in my "maker space". After searching the web & forums I only found one Lock Lock box which should fit a spool. I ordered it, and yes it fits a spool, but its a little bit too big. So I tried other types and finally found a good box which fits perfectly a 750g spool. These two boxes are working: Lock & Lock HSM952 (fits perfectly) ~ € 11.- Lock & Lock HSM947 (a little bit too big, but if you have thicker spools, or want to put an additional 350g spool to a 750g its also ok) ~ € 12.50 Not cheap, but I decided to store only the sensitive ones in the boxes, so it is ok for me. Normal PLA is in a cupboard with some bigger (1kg) silica packs and should be more than enough. In each single boxes I put 2 10g silica packs. So just as information if someone is looking for a suitable box for a single spool of filament.
  15. 2 points
    These parts are too thin to print, for a circle, printed with a 0.4 nozzle, the diameter becomes 0.8. And they will not come out nice and strong if they would print this thin. Maybe add something solid to the model when printed, like a piece of filament, stick (wood, metal).
  16. 2 points
    It looks like the answer is yes to both, but you can get the plugin you need from the creator here:
  17. 2 points
    If I would be so disappointed about a company or a printer, I would sell it again and look for a company, brand, printer which fits all my needs I have regarding support, software, calibration and so on. It makes no sense, in my opinion, to work with a printer which is so annoying. Thousands of customers are happy with the S5 and achieve amazing results out of the box with it, but expectations can be different and maybe the printer is not for everyone. Just my 2 cents...
  18. 2 points
    @SandervG, you have a tough job some days. I think it is great to show transparency that the attempt to create this feature simply did not go as expected. I think it is also appropriate to thank those who have purchased the S5. In terms of understanding, it is a two way street. The users of the S5 are, from what I can tell, able to understand the technical challenge. The other side, for UM leadership to truly appreciate what this change means to the user base, seems to still be a work in progress. At least I hope it is still in progress. A second glass plate might have been an appropriate goodwill offering for the delayed aluminum plate, at least for the early adopters who have been waiting the longest. Holding the price constant going forward and substituting with a second glass plate? Well, that gets complicated. Considering that the S5 was aimed at professional users, I presume that, as in my case, there would have been a cost/benefit analysis behind nearly every purchase of this unit. Why an S5 and not a UM3 or UM3 extended for thousands less? We still see that discussion as active this week. I can't speak for anyone else. My own decision for the S5 was very much a 'wait and see' cycle. Honestly, what I was waiting for was whether the aluminum plate offered damage-free printing of certain materials that tend to chip my glass, or better adhesion of some of the exotics that the S5 also supported. I had not yet made a case for the extra build volume. It really came down to that plate. So, in my case, the $3300 (CDN) premium of the S5 over the UM3 ($2200 over the UM3X) just does not add up. And believe me, I wanted it to. I imagine you guys will still sell many S5's, one more sale here or there will not affect the bottom line. I fully get the frustration the technical team must be feeling and you are sandwiched as the messenger. Still, to me, it feels like the marketers still want a price premium without offering the level of premium content any more. I wonder what that means for the future. I'll leave it there: again, I know this is not an outcome Ultimaker desired and I have no sense that this is anything other than an honest effort that ended in frustration. The discussion is really, how best to move forward. I know you are listening and I hope you're supported as you pass the feedback up the line. All the best John
  19. 2 points
    Yes, we totally agree. However, we rather go this route than release a product which won't bring you a positive user experience.
  20. 2 points
    I think that is what most of the people do. This is my suggestion for the new interface.
  21. 2 points
    We tried aligning it to the right. It looks horrible 😞 As for adding extra space; I personally don't show all settings. I know most of them, so i just search for it. I think most other devs also do this, which is probably why it didn't really come up earlier. But feedback like that is why we're doing 2 beta's this time around. So we're checking out some options now. Stay tuned!
  22. 2 points
    Creative, funny winter snowman crafts for kids, including one boy and one girl, the total hours is about 7, made with quality RepRapper PLA 3D printing filament. Settings: Printer: Anet E10 Rafts: No Supports: No Resolution: 0.2 Infill: 20% Filament: RepRapper PLA Red snowboy-01.stl snowgirl-03.stl
  23. 2 points
    Hi guys! Since it's almost Christmas, I thought it'd be a nice idea to do a quick Christmas Tree Topper. I have yet to remove all pva and paint my own print, but I'd also like to see you guys print and decorate it. Who's in? 🙂 Christmas Tree Topper.STL
  24. 2 points
    I usually make from scratch and design, but just liked the idea of a static model.
  25. 2 points
    Hello everyone, I have been away for a while being busy with well, work. However, I never had a chance to brag and show some of my work both from work and personal portfolio. Some from the work portfolio is done by myself, some together or exclusively by interns. In case I have not been clear before, I work as an architect for Sweco Architects at the mother ship in Stockholm Sweden. One of my daily tasks for the past two years was to handle the in-house fablab. So here are some photos of the works we have left around in the office - the really cool models always end up with the client (but what is new?) A little preview from work: Personal Portfolio - I use a lot of parametric design and 3D printing to exercise and build up my own skills in my free time - and also to be able to share with the community developments, therefore not implying a client and or her/his secrecy restrictions. Prints from the community such as ultimaker ad thinginverse:
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