Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/18/2021 in all areas

  1. I'm working on a new plugin that adds a simple measuring aid to Cura: In its current incarnation, the tool lets you pick (and drag) two points and shows the distance between these points. A test-version can be downloaded here: MeasureTool Download the file and drop it onto the buildplate in Cura as if you were opening a 3d model. Then restart Cura as instructed.
    7 points
  2. The beta version of Ultimaker Cura 4.9 is here. This release contains a bundle of bug fixes and feature improvements increasing software stability, and further simplifying and streamlining print preparation as you continuously strive for first-time right results.  What’s new? The Z-seam is now clearly shown in Preview mode.  This ensures that you will know whether the seam will be sufficiently hidden in the end product. This will also indicate the starting point of the print. Thanks to BasF0 for contribut
    5 points
  3. Hi all, We've got new firmware for the Ultimaker 2+ Connect. It is a really nice update which contains some great work from the team. You can enjoy greater integration with the Digital Factory, and we've tackled a number of bugs that were lurking behind the scenes. Check out the release notes here: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360017358580-Ultimaker-2-Connect-firmware-release-notes Also, check out the video 🙂 Cheers!
    3 points
  4. So I'm driving across Texas on a lovely day and I stop for gas. It happens to be a full service station and the fella comes out to pump the gas. I've been staring at the same scenery for 5 or 6 hours and I mentioned "Wow, is it ever flat here." to which he replied: 'Yep. If you stare in any direction long enough you'll see the back of your own head." I like that one. Science in the middle of nowhere.
    3 points
  5. Experienced the same problem, after installing Cura 4.8.0 on MacOS Big Sur 11.1. Under 'Preferences/general' I enabled the "force layer view compatibility" setting (just a guess) and did a restart. Then layer-view worked, but now x-ray didn't display anything. So I disabled above setting again and did another restart. Now everything works. Maybe just a restart would have solved it too.
    3 points
  6. ‣ Push the collet down ‣ insert the bowden and push it in with some force ‣ pull the collet up (with some force) while still pushing the bowden down ‣ insert the clip The original clip is 1.4mm thick. I designed clips with 1.5 mm, 1.6 mm, 1.7 mm and 1.8 mm to increase tension on the collet if necessary. Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,4mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,5mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,6mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,7mm.stl Ultimaker-3-bowdenclip-1,8mm.stl
    3 points
  7. Note that the Ultimaker 2+ Connect cover WILL NOT FIT your ultimaker 2+. 1) I recommend not using ABS - not sure which property you care about but PLA is typically and tough PLA is tougher. If you want higher temp filament there are other choices (depending on temperature) such as nGen and PETG that are easier to print and don't smell so horrible as ABS. 2) splitting is caused by bad layer adhesion. You can simply lower the fan. A lot. Experiment with the fans - in TUNE menu, bring it down to 0% and then up very slowly until it starts spinning. Note the minimum % w
    2 points
  8. What is the purpose of this post here? If you don't like the plugin, don't use it. @5axes has no obligations to you. Most spreadsheets I used present me with a dialog that lets me select the separator when I import a CSV file. And by "most", I mean all that I can remember using. The link to the rant you posted has no relation to this issue or this forum, so to me it only comes across as link-spam.
    2 points
  9. When the build plate is lowered after the printing is finished, it's ususally impossible to see the final result through the in-built camera. I put a mirror on the left hand wall. Voilà!
    2 points
  10. I stumbled across two companies now when i looked for other stuff and maybe it helps. First Extrudr, which has 3 different types. They seem to be in Austria. Second Unicofil (never heard of them before), which seems to have exactly what you want. They are from Germany. But maybe you can get it somewhere shipped to UK. Greetings
    2 points
  11. I recently modelled this, and printed it on the ultimaker 2+. It prints with no support. I designed it in the software Zbrush. Currently I am working on a much larger version - I have split the design into 7 sections, and will then glue and assemble it 🙂 I have made the file availible for free download here. I do my modelling via live streaming on twitch and youtube live, the links for checking it out are here. If anyone has a go at printing the design i'd be keen to know how it turns out.
    2 points
  12. yess, that's the point 😔 I'm dreaming of an analog computer since over 25 years looks nice on the first view first little test-cylinder got printed without explosions or a burning printer the gcode-file of my model comes down from over 200MB to almost 70MB (6,607,713 lines to 2,048,472) I'll have a look at the acr-settings in my marlin and will do a ~20h testprint I'll check if there is any way to get it done with one click like SolidWorks-Plugin does - just i high-quality here you see the diffrent resolutions: right is 'coarse' - 0,05788cm
    2 points
  13. Psst! Don't look now, but someone mirrored the Cura logo!
    2 points
  14. Normal macht das Cura schon, wie Gerd schon schreibt nur wenn alle Teile den gleichen Ursprung haben. Sprich wenn du das Teil in 3 Teilen selber zeichnest und überall deinen Nullpunkt gleich hast, dann setzt er dir alle 3 Teile auf die Platte ab. Wenn du aber beim ersten Teil den Nullpunkt von Z bei 0 hast, beim zweiten dann bei 20 und beim dritten dann bei 40mm dann schichtet er sie dir übereinander. Am besten wäre es das Teil in einem CAD Programm zu öffnen und in die entsprechenden Teile zu zerschneiden. Dann haben alle den gleichen Ursprung und du kannst
    2 points
  15. When I first moved to Cura 4.7 I noticed a fall in print quality. Curves and arcs were very blobby, and I didn't know what had happened. About the time that 4.8 came out I read a blurb someplace that explained that the Creality printers weren't capable of handling the fine resolution settings contained within the Cura machine definitions for the Creality printers. The main problem was with the Mesh Fixes | Maximum Resolution of 0.05. An adjustment to 0.4 made a huge difference in the quality around curves and arcs. The number of extremely short line segments was reduced and my printer/
    2 points
  16. commenting on wjbdesign post above: People think cranking up the resolution in CAD will make a print better but if there are too many triangles in the STL that means there are even more moves in the gcode and the firmware in printers can only look forward about 16 moves and has to be ready to stop and can get overwhelmed if there are too many moves in the next 8mm of printing at any given moment and this can cause the printer to stutter (slowing down and speeding up too much) and this can cause ugly prints. Only one possible cause among many. So yes don't have too many triang
    2 points
  17. That's what a "slicer" such as Cura is used for. First you extract the 3d model(s) from the zip file, and load them into the slicer. Then you tell the slicer how you want the model(s) to be printed, and the slicer creates a gcode file for you.
    2 points
  18. Your model is probably not manifold. Are you willing to publish the STL file here? if not there are lots of model services on the internet that check your model. Also what CAD are you using? Different types of CAD result in different solutions. Cura has an amazing plugin to test your model to see if something is wrong with it and can repair a very few of the many potential problems: In the upper right corner of Cura click "marketplace" and make sure you are on the "plugins" tab and install "Mesh Tools". Then restart Cura. Now right click on your model, choose "mesh tools" an
    2 points
  19. You can use the post-processing plugin "Change At Z". That plugin does have some issues (the "By Height" option does not work well with adaptive layers or Z hops - they confuse it) but the "By Layer" option will work fine. The second issue is that "Change Bed Temp" does not work with "Target Layer Only". That shouldn't be a problem with what you're trying to do. So under "Extensions" select Post-Processing and Modify G-code. In the dialog that comes up select "Add a Script" and pick "Change At Z" from the list. Within the Change at Z options select "By Layer" and then "Target
    2 points
  20. First thing I would try. is to cut the material and remove it from the "Bowden" tubing. Cut the material at the material bay inserting point, then I would un-clip the tube from the extruder end and remove the material from the tubes. I would then, put another material of the same type into a different material station bay, load it and make sure the printer identifies it as the correct material (same as data sent by "CURA"). Then wait a few minutes to see if the print starts again (give in 10 mins min). If the printer doesn't resume, it may need p
    2 points
  21. Hi gr5. Looking at the picture of the white model the skirt looks pretty good and so do the loops of the model itself. They look like they welded together so the height couldn't be too far off. On the other hand, the first layer skin is a mess. Scouty, gr5 made an in-depth video on bed adhesion that covers most issues. For me, I clean the glass with IPA, and then give it a dusting with Aquanet Super Hold hairspray, and I level with a piece of parchment paper. I get consistently good starts to prints. Since gr5's video will cover adhesion, I'll go over some things about leveling (setting
    2 points
  22. Oh I found this: if using blender - here's how to fix your model I went into edit mode with the object in Blender 2.83 and pressed "a" which selects all faces / vertices / edges, depending on what select mode you are in. The entire object should be highlighted. I then went to "Mesh" (see images), went to the "Normals" section, and selected "Recalculate Outside". This probably will not fix any edges that are not merged, but it will fix the faces that are inverted on the object.
    2 points
  23. If you have a heat gun with a narrow nozzle and can shield the print core frame so it doesn't warp, you can focus on the nozzle area and gradually work outward. It looks from your photos as if you did not get much material on the heater or sensor cables. That is a win. If it is mostly on the heat block, slow and steady, you should manage to get everything off. John
    2 points
  24. Ach... das habe ich vor zwei Wochen hier schonmal ausführlicher erklärt und vorgeschlagen. @ThK - wir drehen uns hier im Kreis, wenn Du die (doofen?) Antworten nicht beachtest und immer wieder die gleiche Frage stellst - ich bin raus...
    2 points
  25. I have a Win7 desktop that I use for older software. I installed Cura 2.3 and then came across the SmartAvionics version (of 4.6?) that he ported to 32 bit. You can go HERE on Github and scroll down to the download link. It works alright. The user interface is also from 4.6. The screen fonts are hard to read. All the recent settings are there. If I switch back and forth between printers it will crash once in a while (but so does 4.8). The fella that released it used to hang around here but hasn't dropped in for a while. If you have questions about the version you can probab
    2 points
  26. In Cura there is a thing called "Use Adaptive Layers" in the experimental section. You can search for it in the search bar or go to preferences and check the box to make sure it is easily found. I have all my settings exposed to make finding things easier meself. Hope this helps 🙂
    2 points
  27. I have the 1.75 conversion kit and have used it from time to time on my S3, its easy to install on the printer but keep in mind in doing so you need to turn off the filament flow sensor or it will be thinking its run out of filament all the time so keep in mind you will lose that feature of the printer. As for software side of it, in Cura i edited the printer settings for the print core to say it's using a 1.75 and to be extra sure i added a 1.75 material profile also. Note when you edit the extruder settings that cura will when display the material profiles for f
    2 points
  28. I don't think this is in normal cura but it is DEFINITELY in the MB version of cura made by our own @burtoogle and I've used this feature many times - it's very useful for me when printing above 200mm/sec. There are all kinds of bridge settings. By the way, in either version of cura, once you have the advanced settings open, type "bridge" in the settings search box and it shows you things even if they are normally invisible. Anyway here it is: https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/releases Yeah it seems sketchy but I vouch for the guy. I've met him in
    2 points
  29. Is there no support anywhere to deal with this ungodly cycle of modify the Python code, double-click on an STL to load up Cura, go get a coffee or something because Cura is DEATHLY slow, slice, check results, close Cura, lather, rinse, repeat. Surely we can't be the ONLY people who think that this is a REALLY crummy way to test and debug code. What is the correct development cycle to develop, test, and debug post-processing Python scripts?
    1 point
  30. I cannot say what happens in your specific situation, but it is generally not recommended to print via USB, it is just not reliable as you see. And the USB implementation in Cura is old and not supported anymore. So just use the SD card or USB stick or whatever your printer supports and you will be much more happy.
    1 point
  31. 1) You can slice in cura and save the gcode file and print using different software. If you go that route I recommend this software which is much better at printing over USB than cura: http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/ 2) Cura can't open the comm port if some other app has it open so make really really sure that all copies of 3d builder are NOT running. Not even a hint of it in the background somewhere. 3) What is the com port number as reported in device manager?
    1 point
  32. O pregunte en la sección en inglés y puede apostar algunas respuestas mejores.
    1 point
  33. Greetings, I am running into an issue with the AquaSys 120 and Ultimaker PC filament, with the support autogenerated by Cura. The AquaSys 120 support filament is not adhering to the Ultimaker PC material at all on the sides of the part. The AquaSys 120 filament is bunching up in chunks. I have attached the Cura project which is the latest attempt with slightly slower print speed, 10% reduction, as recommended when having this type of issue. Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Note: The brim, composed of the AquaSys 120 looks good, its clear
    1 point
  34. That's a fussy part. If I had to print things like that all the time I do believe I'd get a second extruder so the supports could be PVA (or something easier to remove).
    1 point
  35. Try this setting to get your model sit flat on the ground plane: This is also a nice plugin I recommend, if you havent already installed it, written by Nallath. It will calculate best orientation for the model and orient it for you (you can change orientation manually anyway you want still)
    1 point
  36. I haven't printed with TPU yet, so no personal experience about its characteristics. Maybe set more retraction, or make sure you did not accidentally switch retraction off in the slicer? If "nothing else makes a difference", then disabled retraction might be the reason? Just guessing...
    1 point
  37. Sure you can try it, but be warned that you retighten the nozzle as hell to avoid any leakage.
    1 point
  38. At least for prototyping, I would begin with classic materials like PET or even PLA. But do some smoothing on their surface to reduce layer lines, so dirt and bateria have less grip. These do withstand desinfecting alcohol. For smoothing, have a look at the thread I did some time ago, with lots of pictures of the result. Search for: PLA and PET smoothing with dichloromethane. Chloroforme should also work, but I haven't tried that (too much hassle, requires special permissions here). Be aware that after smoothing, the parts will breath-out that chemical for several hours
    1 point
  39. @Gero very helpful and thorough debugging! I'll take this issue back to the team to see if something can be done about it!
    1 point
  40. Hi @bassamanator. First a small disclaimer: This is my first post and I'm fairly new to 3d printing and especially using an ultimaker. I had the same problem with a cylindrical object and cura 4.8 a few days ago. There are a lot of settings in cura that can help with this problem. For instance: adjusting the Outer wall wipe distance, turn of wall overlap compensation changing the max comb distance without retraction or experiment with Z hop settings. However, I just kept on having problems until I lowered the STL refinement in my CAD software (fusion 360). I do not now exactly why
    1 point
  41. So, to conclude this topic, I improved the merging by adding a new part at the exact place where the walls are. It makes things look realy ugly in CATIA but when I export the whole thing in stl and open it with Cura I have no issue anymore. It works fine ^^ Here's a picture of the new preview : Thanks for your help !
    1 point
  42. Can you also tell us, is it Ultimaker material (with NFC) or is it? 3rd party? and what firmware version is the printer running on? I agree with @carbon that changing bays might be the best option for now. Or does that not help?
    1 point
  43. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling. Other view directions of the full piece. I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products. The hair w
    1 point
  44. Standard? Metric is standard in almost everywhere in the world. If you have models that were saved in inches, I've created a handy conversion tool; https://github.com/nallath/BarbarianPlugin/
    1 point
  45. As Aquasys120 does usually stick pretty well to Ultimaker PC, I think the issues in your case come from the support generated by Cura. They seem to be very small and fragile. I suggest you increase the supports a bit by using the join distance and horizontal expansion options in the support section of Cura.
    1 point
  46. The Custom Jobname Prefix plugin is now named Custom Printjob Naming plugin. The plugin now has separate fields for a prefix and a postfix. It also lets you specify a path to use. This path will be limited to a subset of all outputs; currently removable drives, the Duet RepRapFirmware Integration and OctoPrint Connection plugins are supported. If the path option is supported by the plugin, a small folder icon will appear next to the job name as a quick shortcut to set the path.
    1 point
  47. Our company currently has three Fusion3 F410's. These printers come with one standard Simplify3D license, but additional licenses are not included. This makes it difficult for multiple engineers to access the slicer software. I would like to start transitioning people to start using Cura, but have limited time to troubleshoot. Has anyone used Cura with F410s? What settings are you using (Printer, start g-code, end g-code, and extruder)?
    1 point
  48. Hello, I've been in the same place. Please have a look at the attached file. It should be helpful. Cura profile.zip
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...