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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 3 points
  2. 3 points
    The plugin is now available from the Marketplace.
  3. 3 points
    A 4.6.1 patch release is live which fixes some bugs found in the 4.6.0 release: Z seam placement. Changes to the Simplify() algorithm in 4.6.0 caused Z seam placement issues, which resulted in less-than-perfect results. This has been fixed. Ender 3 Pro nozzles missing. A lot of issue reports came in about nozzles missing for this machine definition, so we made a fix to stop this happening. We recommend using 4.6.1 now. Download it here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/4.6.1
  4. 2 points
    Do you have a heat gun or soldering iron you can apply to the plastic? At best, all the filament around your printhead is acting as a heat sink and and causing the error; at worst your heater and/or temperature sensor may be damaged (I'm not familiar with the Tevo) and the error is there to make sure you don't have thermal runaway. Best bet is to apply an external heat source and pull material away with pliers or similar.
  5. 2 points
    Yes there is. cura.CuraApplication subclasses Um.Application. To oversimplify: CuraApplication has all of the functionality of Application and more.
  6. 2 points
    I unpublished the ABS profile yesterday, so the notification will go away now... This bug will be fixed in the next release.
  7. 2 points
    Hi @Frolic, welcome to the community! In Cura is a setting called Support distance, you can use it to alter the distance between your support and your model. Perhaps this setting holds the key to both of your problems. Let us know how it goes!
  8. 2 points
    Sorry @maht, but your answer is for people who know what to do with this information - for people like me, it is only nerd things... @ahoeben - your plugin is awesome, but it does not fix (temporary) this issue...
  9. 2 points
    I'm also running into this, but with Ultimaker ABS. I do not own an Ultimaker machine, but Cura still has a little red notification by the marketplace button to get me to update Ultimaker ABS. Trying to update it gets me stuck in the infinite loop, and I don't know how else to make the notification go away.
  10. 2 points
    Hi, This is my very first post here. I made the new care reaction of facebook. STL files for 3d printing. Can be used as tabletops, paperweight, toy and also as a gift for a loved one. ☺️ https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/toys/facebook-care-emoji
  11. 2 points
    * Download this file (see the "Raw" button) as theme.json: https://gist.github.com/fieldOfView/e00ca6953754e53962196a0af4b9f256 * In Cura go to "Help -> Show configuration folder" * In the "themes" folder create a new folder named "cura-nontransparent" and place the theme.json file in it * Restart Cura * Go to the General preferences and from the theme dropdown select "Ultimaker Dark non-transparent helpers" * Restart Cura again You should now have the same dark Cura theme, with the transparent helpers turned opaque.
  12. 2 points
    Instructions - Copy the text (except the instructions at the beginning) of this log file and paste it at the end of your EndG-code in the Machine Settings window of your printer - After that all your GCode files will have at the end a complete list of your current settings for each print here a picture of a few lines of the result Very useful if you want to compare settings with someone else Also if you are analysing results vs settings, just put them in a spreadsheet to focus on the changing parameters very easily Notice there is a slight hierarchical tab to see the 'children' parameters (depending from a 'parent' one) Enjoy !! CurrentSettingsAtTheEndOfTheGCode.log
  13. 2 points
    This is how i have mine done, i drilled the holes out in the box with a step drill and added some real fixings to it as i found the PTFE would move and start to wrap around the spool in the box. Only other thing I'm doing, is I'm going add a PVC tube that clips into the box lid also as again i found with PVA filament it ends up pulling the spool off the rollers, so making some bits to fix in the lid so it keeps the spools in place. .
  14. 2 points
    This needs to be addressed!
  15. 2 points
    The Cable Clamp holding the Polybox tubing does not work. It slowly deformes the tubing until the filament is clamped too. I am using a tubing holder now that I made. If you are interested, I will upload it soon and post the thingiverse link here. The holder can be simply clamped into one of the slotted holes below the extruder.
  16. 2 points
    This is a known issue (see https://github.com/fieldOfView/Cura-OctoPrintPlugin/issues/168) that I will be fixing in the next release of the plugin. I still don't know why the key that the plugin uses becomes invalid between updates of Cura, but entering a new key has become less of a hassle. Please help me test this by installing the development snapshot. After downloading, drag it onto the Cura buildplate as if you were opening a 3d model.
  17. 2 points
    Thanks to your recommendation I have also bought a Polybox now. Because I want to use it mainly for 2,6kg spools I had to modify the box. The box is not high enough for xxl spools other than the 3kg spools from Polymaker. Fortunatly there are a lot of box extensions already on thingiverse. I also printed conical tubes for the rollers. My hope is that this will always keep the spool centered. I fixed the Polybox tubing to the S5 with a cable clamp zip tie. Otherwise the extruder pulls the tubing inside and gets jammed during printing. How did you fix your tubings to the S5?
  18. 2 points
    Sure, in many cases the speedup can be minimal (though 2 out of 17 is still 11% faster). The speedup will be much more significant if you load Cura from a HDD instead of an SSD for example. The plugin also has other functionality: it lets you remove unneeded branded materials, and it helps you fix specific configuration corruptions. But you don’t have to use it.
  19. 2 points
    In my case load time went from 20.23s to 16.09s. This is the time it took from double-click to launch to visibility of the build volume. I'll take a 20% improvement in load time any day. And that's 4 seconds less I'll have to wait for my 27 hour print! 😂
  20. 2 points
    IT-departments never cease to surprise me... With a correct DHCP configuration you don't need static ip-addresses. Your DHCP server can be configured to always assign the same ip-address based on a once configured MAC address. Then, for the host name, DHCP has an option to change the hostname as well. So, with a well equipped IT-department they could handle it all themselves instead of you having to do crazy things (and we as well). Note that RFC-1035 says the length is limited to 63 characters. So why your IT-department comes with an 18-character limit is surprising. As a side effect of renaming: Cura won't be able to detect the printer anymore automatically, you will have to enter the ip-address instead. Changing the host name: - Ensure printer is in developer mode - Log in to the printer with SSH - type: vi /etc/rc.local - in line 4 you see a line starting with 'hostnamectl .... ' Mark this line as a comment by inserting a '#' as the first character - insert a new line 5: hostname my-fabulous-new-name - Save the file - reboot the printer with 'reboot' command - Log in again and - Check by giving the 'hostname' command without parameters. This change will have to be applied after every firmware update.
  21. 2 points
    The display properties of Cura must be intended for people with really, really big monitors. The scroll bars for that form are hidden/nearly invisible. If you get right on the right edge of the window with the Ultimaker printers in it, you can eventually get the scroll bars to appear. I'll try to get a screen grab off my other machine and post up. Once you get the scroll bars to move, all the printers show up like you would expect.
  22. 2 points
    Hi @kayazuki, I think there is a problem with the Cura concentric fill that I have fixed in my releases. [edit - this is actually in 4.6.0 but there is also a regression in that release that could be causing those jaggies] You can find my releases at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 They can be installed alongside the UM releases, please read the README.md file there before using. That last gap can be filled if you enable the gap filling but, again, the UM releases are buggy and my releases have a more reliable gap filling implementation.
  23. 2 points

    Version 1.0


    This is a well known vase printed in Blue Lagoon from Faberdashery (very nice). It's printed with my Ultimaker 2 modified with the Olsson Block and a 1mm nozzle from www.3dSolex.com. Printed in Spiralize mode with a 1mm wall, and 0.5mm layers! It's very fast, around 1h25 to print at full height (200mm). Watch the video! I'll do a complete review soon on this nozzle
  24. 1 point
    There is something weird with the model. Can you check the .stl in a program like Meshmixer, -> Analysis -> Inspector and see if something shows up. Cura is creating large triangels towards the bed, filling up the model.
  25. 1 point
    Would it be possible to install S5 feeders instead of bondtech (without tinkering with E-steps)? I wonder if the filament sensor would also work, as the wiring is present, the firmware 5.2.11 is identical to the corresponding firmware of the S5 and the temperature graph of cura connect contains two extra feeds named sensor0 and sensor1?
  26. 1 point
    Hello, I'm working on a plugin based on the CustomSupport plugin. But in this case I'm not creating a cube but a cylinder. I haven't any problem to get the right length ( from the picked point to the base) but I wanted to define the radius as a parameter in order to be able to customize this value. Is it possible to add a customized value ? or to get an existing value for this parameter Ie : support_conical_min_width ? Cylinder.zip
  27. 1 point
    That sounds oddly racist. But I guess that's not how you meant it 😉 (to be perfectly clear: that was meant as a joke)
  28. 1 point
    Hi, it looks like the heatbreak of your printcore is broken. There is no known fix, you need a new printcore. Your official local resellers can be found here: https://ultimaker.com/resellers/us ...and as a side note: your silicone nozzle cover needs to be replaced, and there are al lot of material strings inside the printhead which should be removed, especially from the front fan. Regards
  29. 1 point
    Yep ! I think the dev are fighting with dependencies in the program and a lack of CPU...and some lean/agile training I 'll do the suggested modification of the config file, thanks. On my side , i'll fighting with my boss ... he'll ask me why i choose this buggy expensive stuff... Regards.
  30. 1 point
    Well what do I do about the nozzle diving into the prime blob just before it goes to print the model and drags it along screwing up my first layer?
  31. 1 point
    Hello everyone 🙂 Apologies if this is just a case of me not knowing where the option is lol but in Cura 4.6.1, the helpers (light blue colour for support etc) is translucent. Now in some cases this is very useful but for the most part I preferred it being a solid colour. Is there an option to change this back? I couldn't find it and Google isn't helping as I don't entirely know what I should be searching for -_- I have attached an image of what I mean. Thanks a lot in advance! All the best, Will 🙂
  32. 1 point
    To bring closure to this thread, I have solved this issue for at least my printer. I tried several different software fixes such as PWM vs. Bang-Bang control of heat bed etc, and none were helpful for me. The issue as @Torgeir has pointed out is that there is a significant voltage drop. In the (poor) screenshot of the oscilloscope you can see the drop in the 24V line when the heat bed turns ON/OFF. The drop is around 400mV. With more time (and will) I wanted to figure out what subsystems are susceptible to this voltage drop (is it the ADC for temp sensors?, is it the change in temp for hotend? etc.) but instead I chose the easy route and just modded my printer as follows. It seems like a bit heavyweight mod, but at the end of the day, this substantial drop in voltage suggested to me at least one of the following if not all: The power supply is under powered Lack of resiliency in circuit design to cope with 1.5% 24V drop This could be as simple as filter caps Or better Vref for ADCs and such Or need for better PID/temp control of hotend I don't know which of the above it is. Here is what I did. I made custom circuitry and mods to support an independent heater power supply and control. To (over) engineer it for safety and spec, I went with high quality power control modules. For example, instead of rolling my own MOSFET board, I chose to use the ever popular and reliable Pololu G2 which is designed for 24V 21 AMP continuous draw and still be warm to touch! Items Needed: I had to design a simple little board to breakout the KPJX power supply. This was the only custom electronics component. Again, I chose high quality high amperage rated connectors (TDPT 2,5/ 2-SP-5,08 - 1017503) and good quality electrolytic caps. 24 V Cutoff relay. If you look at the UM2 Mainboard, there is a 555 timer that brings up the 24V supply once the input is stable. I did not want a scenario where a floating PWM pin or some other mistake on my part could ever turn the heater ON if the power to the printer is off or the mainboard is in-operational. As such, the main power is cutoff from rest of circuitry is there is no 24V on UM2+ Mainboard. Pololu G2 21Amp version. This board uses really good MOSFETS with very low Rds and excellent perfomance. They are an overkill for our 7 to 8 amp application, but this means, I do not require any active cooling. Under a thermal camera I found the MOSFETs to only get upto about 35-40 deg C. A 120W 24V Meanwell PSU. Again, a bit over powered since the printer barely uses 60W (without heater) but the price difference was negligible and I took into account temperature related derating. Changed the heater control PIN in firmware to use an unused pin on EXP3 header. This pin is then connected to the MOSFET board (PWM on Pololu G2) to turn the heater ON/OFF. Designed a Mounting Plate (my first CAD where it had to fit an existing part [UM2] 🙂 ) Made sure it looks like factory fitted and modeled it after the original way the connector is cutout at back. I think it came out really well. Mounting plate uses unused screw holes in UM2 to securely stay in place (not happy with tape.. but had to move on :-)). The original heater wires are connected to the new circuitry using a high ameprage WAGO connector for easy removal. All wires have ferrules attached. Reverting this mod to original printer will take ~10 minutes with only permanent mod being the connector hole. Summary: My prints now have no bumps/lines and look like they did in my experiments with heater OFF. My next improvement is that the 24V still has high frequency ripple from the motor controllers. I hypothesize that the really fine lines on print (variations, not layer lines) are a result of that. I have to decide whether I figure out what the underlying problem is (why extrusion changes?) or filter out that motor noise.
  33. 1 point
    Hypothèse : il fait plus chaud dans la pièce, donc le filament qui a une certaine inertie reste plus chaud plus longtemps et donc provoque des "flash" de température au passage d'un filament encore plus chaud. Je baisserai la température, pour voir...
  34. 1 point
    These decreased-line-width-walls will also be placed closer to eachother, so given a layer that is entirely composed of walls (eg the bottom layer of a print) you get the same amount of material.
  35. 1 point
    @gmeardi If you can love the solution depends on how much you are willing to stretch 'easy', so here we go. Before working with the Ultimaker S5, I've never really put my mind to NFC technology, so there are very probably some gaps in my understanding. Most of what I've learned, I've deduced from comparing the data from different spools and with different amounts of remaining material. The rest I could fill in reading the relevant python code of the firmware after ssh-ing into the printer. As @Daid pointed out earlier, Ultimaker tried to implement NDEF records. According to the NFCForum-TS-Type-2-Tag standard, NDEF records need to be embedded in a NDEF Message TLV, which is missing on the Ultimaker NFC tags. That's why NFC apps report there are no NDEF records on the tags. Other than that though, the data adheres to the NDEF standard, so I was able to use the python package ndeflib to add custom record types to decode and encode the tag data. The code on https://gist.github.com/gandy92/a7eef12009045f7b3fc01d778c3b79a7 demonstrates just that. Based on this code, you can decode the data from your spools to check how much material is left (usually given in mg) or plug in the UUID from your custom material profile and the amount of material on the spool and create the data to write to your NFC tag. I will not elaborate on how to actually write the data. This depends heavily on your tag writer and OS and would by far exceed the scope of this comment. For our spools, we carefully extract the NFC tags from empty spool and transfer them to the third-party spools. Make sure to always write complete blocks to the tag: There are two stat-records on the tag, apparently with usage data at different times. My first guess was this is used for redundancy in case a stat-record gets corrupted, e.g. by the printer loosing power during a write operation. In my first writing attempts however, I failed to write the last block, rendering the whole tag unreadable for the UM-S5. I'm not sure if this is due to design or simply a bug in the firmware, but if any of the two stat-records show the wrong checksum, the whole spool is simply ignored by the printer. In Cura, I've learned it is important to actually have two filament profiles: {brand}_{material}.xml.fdm_material, where brand and color are set to "Generic" (in the profile, not in the filename) {brand}_{material}_{color}.xml.fdm_material fills in the actual values and additionally provides the amount of material Say you have material M of brand B in color C, you want two files, B_M.xml.material and B_M_C.xml.material. For a new brand and material combination, I suggest to select an existing material in Cura as template: When creating a new custom profile, Cura will pick a new UUID for it. Then add one profile for each color, each with a different UUID. Use these UUIDs for the tags. You will need to use a text editor to adjust the profiles. Later, Cura will sync the profiles with the printer, so there is no need to upload them yourself. Just make sure to increase the profile version number and never again change the UUID. There's one caveat however, when using the material station: The profile tells the printer how to load/unload the filament, but so far I couldn't find documentation on the parameters, so maybe using the profile of a material with similar properties would be a good idea. Being extra careful and standing by the printer is another good idea. For perfect integration in Cura, it would be great having intent profiles for the material, which we are still struggling to figure out how to create. If anyone managed, I'll be happy for tips or suggestions.
  36. 1 point
    peut être ton tube PTFE qui est endommagé à l'extrémité ou alors changer le petit cylindre blanc qui est en teflon qui peut être également endommagé
  37. 1 point
    Just set the line width to 0.1mm. Well - all the line widths. But that's all you have to do. Cura doesn't really have a nozzle width parameter (it does but it doesn't do anything other then set the line widths and it's hidden). It's called "line width".
  38. 1 point
    print it front side as top side I mean turn it
  39. 1 point
    Thanks for the tip. I'm surprised z-hop is not enabled by default. These travel traces are not something anyone wants to look at on a finished print.
  40. 1 point
    Ah, got it. Yes the link to the github repo is posted above, and also in your quote. Click "fork of this code" and it will take you there.
  41. 1 point
    En visibilidad, en perímetro mira si esta marcado "Rellenar espacios entre paredes" si no lo tienes marcado márcalo para que te salga en las opciones de perímetro y cuando salga mira di esta la opción "En todas partes" si esta así cámbialo a "en ningún sitio". Espero que esto lo solucione, Saludos
  42. 1 point
    Yes, Cura 4.6 opens the file and gives the "Your Model is not manifold" error, but the print seems to come out fine. Probably because the error is in some place not visible or because it is a very small problem. In the course of researching this issue, I came across a free online service (Jomatik) that corrects these Holes and other issues with 3D files making them ready for 3D Printing. Check the following link. Just drag and drop your file there and it instantly repairs it. Well.... atleast it did mine. 🙂 The file now loads up in Cura without any errors. https://3d-print.jomatik.de/en/index.php
  43. 1 point
    My absolute hero! That did it 🙂 And now I now I can find additional settings that don't typically appear in the options list, so thanks for that. And thanks for replying to both my posts asking the same thing! I'll be back to printing properly soon. 🙂
  44. 1 point
    Can you try "Activating" one of the other printers using the Activate button? Do the other printers have "Machine Setting" button once they are activated?
  45. 1 point
    I'm having the same issue with S5 and material station but I already have a newer firmware 5.5.12. Same phenomenon - several repeated extrusions of 25-30cm strings before and after every print. Can't really see any benefit of it just waste of material and time. I'm not aware of any feature to adjust or switch it off. For repetitive prints it would be nice to have an option not to unload & reload the filament from the material station.
  46. 1 point
    I have the same issue with a CR10S Pro V2. Like others note, the issue seems to be with the call to "M420 S1 Z2". According to here (https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M420.html), this command enables bed-leveling, assuming there is a valid leveling mesh. On my machine, this command seems to start a bed-leveling procedure, then the next couple lines are executed incorrectly and the triangle is drawn. If you replace the "M420" command with "G29" (the command to perform a new ABL), the ABL runs and then the correct vertical lines are drawn instead of the triangle. Maybe the M420 command is executing incorrectly because it can't retrieve a valid leveling mesh? How does one load the ABL that you can perform from the "auto-leveling" settings?
  47. 1 point
    Yep defo go with a Polybox, it’s what I use on mine.
  48. 1 point
    There are no options to control the behaviour apart from the min area of gaps to be filled (gaps smaller than this will be left unfilled). Of course, you still have the normal settings for specifying the line widths for various features: PS - looking at your image, I should think that 10% gyroid infill with the connect lines (zig-zaggify) option enabled would work well.
  49. 1 point

    Version 1.0


    Sorry for the lame photo, but I demolished this one experimenting on it a few hours later, lol. Obviously from the Gladiator movie, not perfect but you get the drift. Might do a moving version, if i have time, but this one is all one print, no gluing or construction.
  50. 1 point
    I am having the exact same issue, and I'm on my 6th returned spool from UM support, all bad so far. This is a summary of what everyone has been saying: 1. PLA off the roll seems fine, I can usually print long print jobs. 2. Every day the PLA breaks at the point it's entering the extruder and has a very brittle area around this. 3. Once the PLA is "straightened" for a while it become brittle and break easily. here's a video showing my testing method and results. SO far the batch numbers I have been sent that are "bad" are: UM-7021b075 150508b04-11 UM-7021b075 150508b04-12 UM-7021b075 150508b04-6 UM-7021b075 150508b04-9 UM-7021b075 150508b04-317 UM-7021b075 150508b04-324 I have read before that UM changes sources for their PLA from time to time, I think they are buying from a new source that is sub-par with the quality we've all come to take for granted. The bad stuff is shrink wrapped with a desiccant pack inside. I got some silver rolls from them early this year(2015) with that was not shrink wrapped, it's great.
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