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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Just thought I'd try to print some glasses on a model rather than adding ,(my photogrammetry scanned cousin). Glasses were scanned separately on a table by the way. Printing worked great but made the eyes harder to clean up being behind the glasses. Default support settings. Sprayed white. I'm starting to experiment with paint now... Pooh brown colorfabb at 0.06 Hopefully ill have a model in space by Monday, fingers crossed.
  2. 4 points
    Hi, after many hours and prototypes my RC Mini Jet Boat is ready and online. You could find the files as download on https://cults3d.com/en/users/jtronics Follow us on Cults3d and on Youtube to get notice of our New Uploads!
  3. 3 points
    Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support. If you try it out, please post feedback on this thread or open an issue at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues. You can find the release at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Remember, all my builds are provided with no warranty whatsoever. That said, I try to fix issues where I can.
  4. 3 points
    Hi guys! Happy to share my new work! I have modeled and printed a plaster figure prototype, from which I will be able to take off the uniform and cast copies for my big architecture project! In order to do this, I had scanned the original plaster figure using the 3D scanner. Then I corrected the model, removed all the chips and flaws of the original and printed it out using white PLA SnowFlake plastic on a Ultimaker 3D printer. Layer thickness 0.1 mm. The photo on the left is the original, and on the right you can see the printed model. What do you think about this work? Any comments?
  5. 3 points
    Hi, I have been busy over the last 16 months upgrading the foundry equipment and have made a few mods to my Ultimaker original. I would very much like to hear from people that have tried metal casting 3d prints, ether from sand moulds or lost PLA. I hope you enjoy the video. Many thanks.
  6. 2 points
    Ultimaker Cura 4.2 beta is now available. Check out the blog for some feature highlights, or download it now to discover what’s new. During the beta phase, user feedback is really valuable to us, and our developers are on hand to answer any queries you have. Feel free to tell us what you like, and please report any bugs you encounter so that they can stabilize the next release. We’ve hosted the beta version on GitHub for now. This is because our product pages have just switched over to a new platform. We’re working to reimplement beta hosting on the product page eventually. Reporting bugs Bugs (that are clearly bugs) are best posted on our GitHub issues page. Talking about "This isn't doing what I want it to do" is perfectly okay in the forum, right here. When reporting a bug, please fill in the issue template and provide logs. We hope you enjoy this release!
  7. 2 points
    Hi, the part-numbers are 1967 (the worn-out half on the photo) and 1968. One also realy useful solution would be this: http://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-3-extruder-lever-mod Works pretty well for me. Regards
  8. 2 points
    With Cura 4.2 beta available now, it would help me if you tested this version of the sidebar gui plugin: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.1.0-2019-07-18T12_34_52Z.curapackage Download the file and drop it onto a running Cura 4.2 application window. Then restart Cura and it should have the sidebar gui.
  9. 2 points
    I am not really a fan of browser-based GUIs, because that leaves you with an additional variable that you are dependent on but have no control over: the browser. Here are a few examples. Firefox was excellent until one day they changed the whole UI and concept, after which it broke all add-ons and became useless for 80% of its users. This broke a lot of people's workflow. Advanced users - like most people here are - tend to install a lot of add-ons in their browser, which may create additional dependencies and trouble. Some people - or some of these add-ons - may disable java, javascript, flash, silverlight, active-x, cookies, external fonts, third-party images, right-click functions, pop-up functions, resize-functions, and whatever else. If you have a good but not very common browser, like Pale Moon (=a Firefox derivation that has kept the old GUI-concept with menubar and statusbar), then this is often not recognised by the server. And then the server messes-up its webpages by *assuming* stupid things, for example that I have a micro-screen of 320x240 pixels instead of my real 1920x1080 pixels. So it sends me garbage instead of standard HTML: it sends fonts of 5cm high, so only a few lines fit on my huge screen. The bigger the organisation, and the more they are specialised in communication (e.g. news-sites and newspapers), the worse this gets, and the less they communicate. A lot of modern browsers even mess-up perfectly valid and simple standard HTML, which by design should reflow automatically in the available window. The browser should take the default font-settings if not specified, without changing them. But they don't. For example Google Chrome Mobile rescales some paragraph's font-sizes (sometimes making it larger, sometimes smaller), but not other paragraphs. And some browsers refuse to reflow text, so it falls off the screen. So you can't even limit yourself to old-school 1995's HTML and forms, because even these break today. You don't want that kind of trouble in a slicer GUI. Cloud-based computing is even worse: then you become dependent on a very unstable variable: the internet/network, coming with all its interruptions and its hazards (virusses, spyware, interception, industrial espionage...). It is unusable while moving (train, plane) or in remote areas: even Germany has no internet in lots of its eastern rural areas. And the data going over their monthly limit, and you going over your budget. Also, this creates GDPR and similar legal problems. So I prefer independent standalone applications installed on and running on the local computer. One application per function. Preferably with all user-settings stored in the same directory as the main program, or a subdirectory "user-settings". Not splattered all over the harddisk in unaccessible directories. So that it is portable. Although of course all programs should use generic and standard datafiles for smooth data-exchange. I am aware that my view may not be "politically correct", but this has proven to work best (for me).
  10. 2 points
    The plugin is now available in the Marketplace. Quite a bit more work needed to be put in this plugin, to get the Print settings in the Material preferences to accept valid values for additional settings. In fact, the plugin now replaces the whole Materials pane of the preferences with a "fixed" version. There is a cosmetic sideeffect to this: the print settings tab now uses the Cura theme, ie if you use a dark theme for Cura, that part of the preferences will now also display using dark theming. I hope you find this plugin useful.
  11. 2 points
    Hi guys! I'd like to share my new work! I printed a batch of parts with white PLA and assembled them into several scale models of houses. I will use these models in visual planning of residential development. For this job, I used a Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer.
  12. 2 points
    Ultimaker only provides profiles for officially supported combinations, which is pretty limited, but you can use the CC0.6 perfectly on the Ultimaker 3 , or with many non supported materials. The easiest is usually to select a 0.4 profile (with the AA0.4 selected as core) for the material you want to use, and change the line width to 0.6 (or just below 0.6 as Ultimaker would do it), depending on the material and speed you may also need to slightly change the printing temperature and do a few test prints, but usually the 0.4 profile is a pretty good starting point. Be aware that if you want to use the CC0.6 in the Ultimaker 3 , that the feeder is not made for abrasive materials and may wear out. You can solve this f.e. by upgrading to bondtech feeders.
  13. 2 points
    @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  14. 2 points
    CreawsomeMod is currently being integrated into what will become Cura 4.2. Edit: thanks for the likes, but the work has being done by Eric Ptak and @ghostkeeper here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/pull/5961
  15. 2 points
    Connect your printer with a network cable directly to a computer. If that computer is not too old the network card should be able to act as some kind of DHCP server together with the OS so your printer should be able to obtain an IP address and most important a time stamp. That time stamp will allow the firmware update to work again properly. Don't worry for future updates; Ultimaker has skipped that check again. As for the infinite time to set up the Wifi, I had that once on my UM3. Factory reset did not fix it so I had to recover the firmware. You can find instructions here:
  16. 2 points
    I suspect there is a problem in reading the data from the print core. Try switching your two print cores. Is the error then in the same slot, or does the error move to the other slot? If the error remains in the same slot then the problem is with the connection points in the slot being dirty. Clean those If the error moves to the other slot, then try cleaning the print core's contact points. When the above doesn't fix it, then please try to get more data for us to investigate this. When you start a print and it complains about the nozzle size mismatch, then I would like to see the debugging data that's normally hidden: 1) Is your printer in developer mode? The just scroll down the error message on the screen a bit more and post a photo of the data there. 2) When your printer isn't in developer mode, open a web browser and surf to the printer's home page. Select there 'Event Log' and copy / paste the error message related to the print cores not matching. The web page address will be something like:
  17. 2 points
    @yttrium you are not the first/only one expecting this from Autodesk - I can say that this is the main reason this blog is here, that so much time has passed and no one click solution was provided. I started printing about 4 years ago and at that time Revit was still my no. 1 software to go to - I soon changed to Rhino and became more confident in using that software and all it’s visual programing plug-ins to handle massive amount of revit data in regards to 3D printing — the results are that working with revit is time consuming in regards to 3d printing and it will be a never ending story until someone does something about it. This blog is indeed a little light in algoritms since its purpose was to be accesible to everyone , not only people with know how in more than one software. With this being said I would just like to mention again - you are not the only one with these wishes - we, all revit users ,want the same thing in regards to this topic.
  18. 2 points
    Yes, install Aldo's excellent setting visibility saver plugin and then you can simply reload your settings after loading a project.
  19. 2 points
    It did it on every print. I actually found the solution, however. I posted for advice before taking the entire thing apart for a thorough cleaning, just in case I needed to replace something while it was apart. During disassembly, I noticed a couple of things. 1. The Z rods had a bit of dirty build up in the recesses. Took them to the wire wheel and scrubbed them with alcohol. 2. The top carriage that loosely holds the Z rod in place wasn't centered. It's designed to allow plenty of front to back movement, but not enough left to right movement. With the nozzle close to the bed, I loosened the carriage at the top of the Z rod and allowed it to center itself before re-tightening. Put it all back together and first two prints are now perfect.
  20. 2 points
    My personal viewpoint on software - any software - is to keep using it as long as it is stable and I am happy with it. I can do everything I want with an old MS Office 2000, so if I wouldn't need to be compatible with others, I would still be using that since I like that way more than the horrible "Ribbon" mess from Office 2007 onwards. Idem for a very old image editing program and a couple of others. I keep using old hammers and screwdrivers too. :-) Only things like VLC and browsers need to be updated to get the best performance (video formats) and best page display and security (browsers). Concerning slicers, it might be a good idea to keep a couple of stable old versions on your computer, and install a newer version parallel to it, if you need some of the latest features for some prints. Then you have the latest stuff, plus a fallback. Especially if you have a printer with dual nozzle, the area where the most progress is. But that is just my personal preference, based on my needs. Feel free to see things differently.
  21. 2 points
    I was reading through all of the threads on bed adhesion because all was going well for me and then all of a sudden the brim and first layer would not stick. I discovered my issue and thought I would share in case it can help anyone else. The issue as it turns out was environmental, not the printer, filament, or the Cura settings. As it's hot right now, the air conditioning is going full blast and a ceiling fan is on low in the room. It looks like the AC vent got turned and the cold air was blowing down on the printer. As soon as I redirected the air and turned off the ceiling fan, all worked great again. I found that I'm able to turn it back on once the first layer is down. For reference this was using Ultimaker PLA on an Ultimaker 3. Ambient temperature 75f. All settings as default for UM PLA.
  22. 1 point
    Modified from a previous design published by others. I have shortened and broadened the retainer clip, so that it wouldn't crash against the glass doors when printing an object that reaches to the very front of the build plate. Note that this design is specific to the S5. I strongly advise to always use this retainer clip. I have completely destroyed a printhead because the front disengaged from its wimpy little magnets and crashed into the model (fortunately UM accepted that this was a warranty issue). https://grabcad.com/library/1033247
  23. 1 point
    I am happy to report that the issue seems to have been in my design in Fusion360. I started from scratch and made sure I used components properly in fusion360, exported the three layers as stl files and did all the right things in Cura and the result printed like it was expected to. I am not entirely sure what I did wrong but separating things into components is new to me and it is not surprising that I screwed it up. The surprising thing was that I ended up with three apparently good layers that were brought into Cura and all seemed well. In the past I used separate bodies for my different color layers but that was not practical with text as each letter ends up as a separate body which has to be exported as a separate stl and the whole thing gets very messy very fast. Using components I can export all letters at the same time making it much easier to manage. Thank you for the assistance !
  24. 1 point
    This is a work in progress. Since surgery, I am working with some side effects (still) so, I am slow and having to work bunches to get around them. Printed on the S5. This is the model on the build plate. Still not finished. Gotta really sharpen details and work a bit more on the overall bust. Sliced, you can see the details disappear..... Print is rough as hell....After years of no PVA issues, getting them now... ☹️
  25. 1 point
    Wenn du eine exakte Farbe benötigst, kann ich nur Colorfabb Color on Demand empfehlen. Die machen dir jede RAL oder Pantone Farbe die du willst, schicken dir vorab ein Muster und Mindestabnahme sind nur 3kg bei einer neuen Farbe die sie noch nicht im Programm haben.
  26. 1 point
    That matches my view of Cura for the UM2X+ and when I look at the printer itself. You lose print space on the right hand side because the nozzle isn't centered on the fan shroud (it's on the left)--you lose a lot more space on the right edge of the bed. 223 by 223 is also dead on to the advertised specs: https://ultimaker.com/3d-printers/ultimaker-2-plus
  27. 1 point
    I'm in the business of laser scanning if anybody needs a high resolution high accuracy scan of anything please get in touch and I'll see what I can do.
  28. 1 point
    Cura comes with firmware for both the UM2 and UM2+. Try those.
  29. 1 point
    You have probably flashed the wrong firmware, ie the firmware for the UM 2+ instead of the UM 2. Flash the proper firmware for your printertype and it should work correctly again. edit: @gr5 beat me to it.
  30. 1 point
    lol. You probably have the wrong firmware. The UM2 and the UM2+ feeders run in opposite directions. So you probably got the wrong firmware. Also do a "factory reset" as sometimes when you downgrade or cross-grade the firmware it doesn't carry forward the eeprom values and a "factory reset" fixes this so that you have the correct directions for all the extruders. ALSO Seriously consider getting the tinker firmware instead of the Ultimaker version. The tinker version is much better with amazing features like the ability to reverse the feeder without installing different firmware and the ability to continue a failed print and much more. Tinker marlin is here: https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
  31. 1 point
    Does it work when you move the vertical and horizontal sliders manually with the mouse?
  32. 1 point
    Earlier, I began printing in PETG, and my first prints got successively better, till little parts of the prints I made were clear enough for me to hold against a screen and see the details through it! but no more. I was printing little 1cm cubes, and I began noticing that the issue lies in extrusion...lines? Essentially, little bubbles between the extrusion lines were left behind, even after dialing in my settings to the best of my ability. I believe ironing may be the solution here, but therein lies the issue. Cura only supports ironing on exposed upper surfaces. I believe it should be an option, and not hard to add a little check box to "iron everything". it should come with a warning that it will slow down prints immensely, but after spending 3 hours on a 1cm cube in an attempt to get it a little clearer, I think the feature can stand on its own. I'm not sure it will make things clerar, but I'd say there's a decent chance, and some extra heating on the top of every layer may actually help strengthen prints by removing fracture points and ensuring better layer adhesion, in any case. another option would be the ability to list which layers should be ironed and a checkbox for whether to include the entire layer or just exposed faces. I know a few people that wanted to iron only a couple layers.
  33. 1 point
    Personally, I'd get the parts from UM or an authorized seller, eBay ones can be very hit or miss with poor QC and there's no real reason to equip a printer of this price range with crummy sub-par parts. UM will have done their due diligence on finding a reputable supplier of quality parts, there's no reason to try to reinvent the wheel for saving $20
  34. 1 point
    Hello @cerons, it's hard to tell looking at your images exactly what is wrong. My first guess is that the model is too thin compared to the line widths, layer height, etc. It would help a lot if you could save the project file (File -> Save) and attach the .3mf file to this thread. Thanks.
  35. 1 point
    Thank you Labern, There's still a long way to go with the foundry, but I have some big projects coming up. I'm hoping to get started on my burnout kiln for the ceramic shell wax / PLA removal soon. Then I will be able to fire larger items, such as this Beethoven bust I sculpted in ZBrush. The plan is to get him printed life size, in separate sections, covered with foundry wax, in part to hide the layer lines but also to allow me to sculpt in in very fine detail. Then after several complex moulding processes, he will be cast in bronze. Cheers, Ian.
  36. 1 point
    Good business case 🙂
  37. 1 point
    omg you are an absolute life saver. WOW just wow. I never even touched maxed travel resolution...or maybe I did somehow/sometime?? Either way I am so relieved. Thank you so much!! UGH and same thing with max retraction count, I never even changed that!! I did just get cura installed on this computer a few days ago but so weird that those settings had those values defaulted. Maybe im crazy and I changed them but I can swear I never did. So string problem is resolved..now I just have to work on the z-seam and "zits"/"blobs" and things should finally be looking pretty.
  38. 1 point
    The API for retrieving the camera's URL is confirmed as a bug in v5.2.11, it was broken since v5.1 and will be fixed in the next release. The index number you specify in the API call is to specify the camera number you want to access. Not officially supported yet, but you can connect up to 10 camera's over usb and then this index number will select each camera. Not officially supported because never tested, and there is no guarantee that the number connecting to the camera's will remain the same.
  39. 1 point
    Applied @ardrift 's changes on a separate branch. Feel free to download, install and test the built packages taken from here: https://thopiekar.eu:5443/cura-cad-integration/CuraBlenderPlugin/-/jobs/1368/artifacts/browse Currently, I'm too busy doing some testing, so please give feedback if it is working. Thanks!
  40. 1 point
    @raldone01 - what cad software did you use to create this? If it was sketchup I can help you out. The quickest thing to do is "fix" the model with netfabb. netfabb free repair service is here (you have to create a free account first): https://service.netfabb.com/login.php You could also experiment with the 8 options in the "mesh fixes" section. In particular uncheck "merge overlapping volumes". That might make it even worse though. But try that. The best solution is to not create these errors in CAD in the first place. 99% of cad software out there will not let you create these errors - it's impossible. A "normal" as ahoeben calls it indicates which side of each triangle in the STL file is facing "air" and which side faces "internal". Many cad programes (like sketchup) make the user set this value manually. It's very easy to fix in sketchup.
  41. 1 point
    Do a cold pull. Especially because this is a brand new core I'm thinking some small piece of metal was in the nozzle. I resell 3dsolex cores and I inspect EVERY Nozzle and about 1 in 50 have a piece of metal from the manufacturing process. I remove those but I may have missed a speck. Or you may have gotten a nozzle that bypassed me.
  42. 1 point
    I went a kind of similar route as @AbeFM and added Extruder End G-Code, but instead of taking fixed values I used the following line: G1 {prime_tower_position_x} {prime_tower_position_y} that always simply moves the hotend in the middle of the prime tower letting out the oozing in there and not over the model.
  43. 1 point
    So if you abort a print the UM3 and S5 have a retry option at the end of the print. And the Cura connect print queue software (running on the same printers) has a list of old prints you can duplicate. Does that help?
  44. 1 point
    +1 pour le support PVA qui n'est pas adapté, pour l'ABS il faut utiliser le HIPS (pas officielement supporté par UM) ou le breakaway qui vu ta pièce me semble adapté
  45. 1 point
    3.6 is fine as far as I know. No need to upgrade. Upgrading can mess up any profiles you may have saved. Also if you don't have a Ultimaker printer then that's another reason not to upgrade. There is a bug in 4.X where if extruder speed is at zero (which it is for many profiles) then cura creates a gcode to set it at the speed of light. This large number messes up most versions of Marlin. There have been complaints. The fix is trivial though - just set the extruder speed to 50.
  46. 1 point
    If you have a powerful computer on your printer, such as a smoothie board or other cell phone processor then you can make this quite small, say 0.1mm, because those tend to have a buffer that can store 100 gcodes at a time so if there are 30 steps going around a rounded corner that should be fine. But if you have an Ultimaker (UMO through S5 models so far) that has Marlin in it or almost any of the other 99% of 3d printers in the world, Marlin only stores 16 future moves at a time and has to be ready to stop by the 16th. So it will print amazingly slow if you lower this to 0.1mm and your model is very high resolution (like, say, yoda). The current value of 0.8 or so, should be fine. It means that minimum line lengths are 0.8mm.
  47. 1 point
    Agreed...It sounds like the nozzle needs to be tightened when heated, and was probably accidentally tightened when cold. You can do an atomic/cold pull before changing the nozzle to make sure debris is not preventing the nozzle from tightening all the way.
  48. 1 point
    The experimental 'Tree Support' so far may have been buggy and slow, but already quite useful. Now when test driving 4.1 I couldn't help but notice that slicing with tree support enabled easily takes twice as long compared to 4.0! The support trees look pretty much unchanged... This doesn't seem right? BTW seeing this slowdown on an Ubuntu Linux 18.04 / AMD Ryzen system.
  49. 1 point
    This has worked out amazingly well. It should be in the docs, it makes life much easier. It's almost obvious once you see it, but when you are used to a different extruder, it isn't so obvious.
  50. 1 point
    Auch auf die Gefahr hin es heisst ich hätte zu viel Zeit :-) Das Mark 2 Update ist fast durch. Wie immer ein paar Bilder.
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