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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2015 in all areas

  1. 19 points
    Hi to all The 2016 year had inspired some of us in 3D field, we are always looking to improve our jobs and our equipement. For a long time I wanted to print with ultra-flexible filament without meeting all the difficulties due to the bowden tube on the one hand and the disadvantages of weight and power of the direct drive with the stepper motor on the head of printing on the other hand The flexible shaft is an interesting solution but also has some disadvantages and requires a significant addition of adjustments in a specific software to remove them. I tried to find a compromise between these 3 systems, here are the results Extrusion in direct with the usual stepper motor and using the components of the original extruder or those of the upgrade. The system is quite simple by replacing the Bowden tube by a straight and rigid square shaft between the stepper motor and the feeder, the latter 2 being installed on pivot points to be able to follow freely the X/Y displacements. There is little added weight, +/- 10 grs more on the print head, it's why it is called by Neotko " Zero Gravity Direct Drive ", thanks to him for that and also for giving some good ideas There is absolutely no play in operation, extrusion and retraction have become very accurate by having the full torque power. Printing with very flexible filament has become almost as easy and fast as with the PLA My average retraction setting distance down to 1.5mm (1 to 2mm maxi) Now my average print speed is 60mm / s The other settings remain in accordance with the usual settings depending on the filament used. I improved the ringing by lowering the acceleration values ??and the X / Y jerk, (2500/15 UM2 extended) Depth of 150 hours of test performed with different filament types without encountering problems, the videos shows tests of a hobby car tire wich is printed with the 2.85mm Recreus Fila Flex A82 Shore at 50mm/s print speed and 2mm/30mm/s retractation settings. the Bondtech feeder parts are used here for the 2 print heads, a system with the UM stock knurled wheel is in preparation; some other works future UM stock feeder parts uses in a customized" I Roberti" feeder system
  2. 18 points
    I used this function on the old forum a lot, so I could quickly see if there was content that was applicable to me. Is there any such function on the current forum?
  3. 17 points

    Version 1.0.0


    Here is my full size Velociraptor skeleton. Juste made for the challenge. Lenght: ~180cm Sculpted with Zbrush. Total printing time: ~392h. Printer: Ultimaker2+ Filament: PLA Speed: 30mm/s - 50mm/s Nozzle: 0,4mm Layers: 0,15mm Painting : acrylic paint (spray and brushe)
  4. 17 points
    Public communication simply has higher impact. I'll most likely get called in by management for posting that (would not be the first time) Reasons for making a post like that: 1) Nobody in is right minds makes a 100% custom forum. See the amount of bugs and lack of features? That's why. It's a waste of money really. 2) You have one of the top users of the forums sitting in your office, and you don't even talk to him about your forum change plans. Cura is pretty much born on the forums. I've pretty much lived on forums for a big part of my life. This is not a forum, this is a forums retarded little brother. 3) Communications from R&D to the people who handle communications have been pretty much ignored or misinterpreted. Even when told in the face and emailed. 4) There has been a Cura PinkUnicorn limited beta planned to release on monday. I have NO clue on how we're going to get feedback on that. Normally we handled testing with a hidden subforum. 5) The layout is horrible for information density. 6) Essential features are missing. 7) Bugs everywhere. 8) It's not a "people resist change" issue. Yes, people resist change. I know all about that (see removal of slice button). It's a "we had something that was quite decent, and it's being replaced by something that can only be properly described as a piece of total shit." 9) I'm fed up with this shit. 10) Do not taunt the happy fun rock. Now, most likely I will get some silly promise that they will fix the bugs. Fix the layout. Add the features. But, I'm a software developer. I will tell you it will take a year to get this really sorted out. So I say: Close this shit. Put in normal forum software which we all know that works. Any effort put in here is a waste of money and effort. Effort and money that could be put into other areas. I also ask you all. Do not hold back, do not bite your lip. Tell what you really think! Remember that the forum is there for you, you are not there for the forum.
  5. 16 points
    Hello all, This subject contains many very usefull links for new users or more advanced users. Feel free to answer with more usefull links, this topic is meant to be populated by the community. Most of the links are about the Ultimaker 2 (and family). Unboxing and first start Unboxing the Ultimaker 2+ Inside the Ultimaker 2+ Unboxing the Ultimaker 3 Inside the Ultimaker 3 Ultimaker 3, using PVA Visual troubleshooting guide English version French version Ultimaker provided tips & tricks Wide range of tips and tricks Maintenance Unclog the nozzle The Atomic method Basic maintenance Replacing the PTFE coupler Dismantle and re-assemble the head of the Ultimaker 2+ Dismantle Re-assemble the head of the Ultimaker 2+ Test the head temperature Some examples of post-processing yout prints Link to forum topic Installation of the Olsson Block on your Ultimaker 2 To swap your nozzles easily! (compatible Extended and Go) Install the Olsson Block on the Ultimaker 2 Change the feeder of the Ultimaker 2 Install community designed alternative feeder Lists Online manual Online manual Manuals and BOM Build manual Source files Ultimaker Original+ Source files for Ultimaker 2Go Source files for the Ultimaker2 BOM Ultimaker 2+ BOM Ultimaker 2 Extended+ Source files for Cura How to install VPN for your Ultimaker 3. User generated. FAQ and Lessonplans for Educators Softwares Cura Official versions Old versions Beta version below official release (use at your own risk) Manual Cura Tips and Tricks Firmware TinkerGnome Modified version to display more information during a print (UM2, GO and Extended) Forum subject Simplify3d Powerfull slicer, lot's of parameter (price: 130€) Simplify 3D Tutorial Kisslicer Keep It Simple Slicer Slic3r http://slic3r.org/ Repetier Host Pilot the printer via USB, visualise the gcode. PronterFace Like Repetier Host OctoPrint Manage your printer from distance with a web application Tutorial to install it on a Raspberry Pi GCodeViewer WebSite to visualise gcode 3D Design Softwares (Free) Autodesk Fusion 360: Very powerfull, lots of features (Free for students, enthusiasts, hobbyists, and startups) DesignSpark Mechanical: Good software for mechanical parts, quite complete. (Free version of SpaceClaim) 123D Design: Nice app simple to use with some interesting features (for example: text extrusion) 123D Catch scan objects with your camera Sketchup: Simple to use with a lot of plugins Plugin to check that the model is waterproof Blender: Complex software with a lot of possibilities, more suited to organic design MeshMixer: Sculpt STL files, cut, join, etc... mainly used for STL manipulation MeshMixer Tutorial OpenScad: Design in a programming language (usefull for parametric designs) TinkerCad: Easy to use Sculptris: Sculpting software MeshLab: Work on mesh files (very complex but powerfull) NetFabb Basic: Prepare and repare STL files for 3D printing Onshape: CAD system with version control and collaboration built in at its core. FreeCad: List of usefull software There are probably other free design softwares feel free to add them below Paid softwares: Cheetah3d: paid but acceptable price (69$) Other softwares Solidworks AutoCad 3dsMax Cinema4D SpaceClaim Inventor Very expensive but worth mentionning! For students there are some very low cost licenses available! 3D Design librairies: Youmagine:Website managed by Ultimaker, a lot of usefull designs, i encourage all of you to post your designs here! Thingiverse: The most popular website, with tons of designs (some good and some totally worthless) MyMiniFactory: Free and paid objects. Good thing about this website is that when you upload something they print it to see if it's worth adding to their content GrabCad: Lots of 3d designs (Not all for 3d printing) Various: 3DHubs: Service to print for others Colorfabb tutorials Designing for 3d printing Feel free to add any usefull link you have or to give any feedback. I will add them to this post. Material providers list[/b]
  6. 16 points
    Ok, I gave this some thought, and I'm going to do a drastic suggestion; first of all, thank you Sander, thank you "TheDeugd" and thank you to the rest of Ultimaker who tried to improve a forum. I understand the way you wanted to go. Sort of an interactive FAQ, a place where makers and builders and designers and users could find each other, to communicate, to suggest ideas and to work together. so far, some things are great, some things are not. the path you have chosen, to take a real forum offline, to wait for a week, then bring something partially back online (still missing access to PM's and access to portions of the old forum), collect feedback while live and improve on the go, is not one that works for me. I thought the old forums where bad. the search sucked, in Internet Explorer, half of it simply did not work, some portions misbehaved but overall, it worked. it was an experience that could be improved. instead of improving, you've chosen a path of change. Remember the old saying.. change is good as long as everything stays the same.. You could have moved to new software while keeping the old look and feel then making improvements. A path that is very common amongst many companies and very successful. You choose differently. Once again, I certainly don't want to sound ungrateful, but I have a very simple but drastic suggestion: Please host a "real" forum. buy Vbulletin. buy any software. use open-source I don't really care as long as it's something trialed and proven. Give your community what it wants.. give the people bread and games. keep this and keep improving it. once it's done, and this is not an overnight fix I suppose, then start integrating things. For me, this is not working. Looking through the community I am not the only one. I have to go through a lot of effort to help other people. for free. I have to login every single time. I have to wiggle my way through the weird interactions. I can't really attach pictures without a lot of pain. I feel that halfway through a reply when something doesn't do what I expect it to do I just close the window thinking "oh fuck it". Honestly, I hope it's just me. I hope all the other people that were helping out feel very different than I do and they love this new interface and new forum. If not, more people will start closing windows. Í'll check back in a month or so if I feel more at home till then, I'll just be a vagrant
  7. 15 points
    Missed me? I know you did. - As the Ultimaker 3 is now known and will be shipping out towards people and, (don't quote me on this one) hopefully be in the hands of users by FridayNovember. So, I figured I will explain in depth technical details to prevent surprises and improve knowledge for you. I will assume that you are already experienced with certain things from the Ultimaker 2 or Ultimaker Original. I hope this knowledge will help in understand why things work the way they do, and how to get the most out of your new shiny machine. - Other days: Day 2 - Remote access part 1 Day 3 - Remote access part 2 Day 4 - Electronics Day 5 - developer mode linux Day 6 - active leveling GCode If you are reading this, and you don't know what GCode is, you should read up on that somewhere else first. - So. The Ultimaker 3 accepts GCode. Again. Just like the Ultimaker Original, Ultimaker 2, and almost every other printer. However, after much consideration, we decided to break backwards compatibility. So it is no longer possible to run Ultimaker Original or Ultimaker 2 GCode on the Ultimaker 3. We had good reasons for this, during testing we discovered it was quite easy to run the wrong GCode file and thus get bad/unexpected results, which resulted in wasted time and filament. This is also a lesson learned from the introduction of the Ultimaker 2 go and Ultimaker 2 extended. Where running files for a larger machine on a smaller machine could go very wrong. (Checks have been build in the firmware now, but for running extended files on a normal 2 this still triggers very late) The header! So, introducing: The header. The Ultimaker 2 already had a tiny header, containing a few lines. The Ultimaker 3 uses a new header format. This header contains a lot more information, and allows the printer to make a better decision on if the print job is suitable for this printer. It also allows us to upgrade/improve this header in the future. - This does mean, that if you use a different slicer then Cura 2, you need to put in this header. Slightly unfortunate. But that's why I kick this "insider" posts off with explaining this detail. However, not to worry, we did think this one trough. - But enough talking, let me show you a header: ;START_OF_HEADER;HEADER_VERSION:0.1;FLAVOR:Griffin;GENERATOR.NAME:Cura_SteamEngine;GENERATOR.VERSION:2.1.99-internal.20160623;GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE:2016-06-23;TARGET_MACHINE.NAME:FDM Printer Base Description;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:210;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED:2060;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.MATERIAL.GUID:506c9f0d-e3aa-4bd4-b2d2-23e2425b1aa9;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.NOZZLE.DIAMETER:0.4;BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:70;PRINT.TIME:474;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.X:0;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Y:0;PRINT.SIZE.MIN.Z:0;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.X:215;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Y:215;PRINT.SIZE.MAX.Z:200;END_OF_HEADER That's a whole lot of information. Some information isn't used by the machine, but can still be useful for diagnostic goals. But let me go over each one in a few sentences. - START_OF_HEADER, END_OF_HEADER, these need to be included. Only the lines in between here are seen as the header, if these are missing, then the Ultimaker 3 will flat-out refuse the file. HEADER_VERSION Once again, this needs to be 0.1 for now. When we make incompattible changes we will increase this number. We are software engineers, so we start at 0. (yes, we had a 0.0) FLAVOR And another one of these. This indicates the flavor of GCode we generated. Griffin is the name for our Ultimaker 3 internal software stack. So this flavor name matches this. It indicates which GCodes are used for what. Which I will go on into detail later. Right now, this needs to be Griffin. (captital G) GENERATOR.NAME This field is required to be present. BUT you can fill in whatever you want. It is to indicate which backend tool was used to generate the GCode. In this case, it's the CuraEngine, still called Cura_SteamEngine as a wink to the past. GENERATOR.VERSION Also required to be present, but same as the generator name, this can be anything you want. It's an indication of which version of a slicer that was used. Useful for diagnostic goals. GENERATOR.BUILD_DATE Pretty much the same as the version, but needs to be a valid date in yyyy-mm-dd format. TARGET_MACHINE.NAME Optional field, filled by Cura in this case to indicate which machine was selected. But you can leave it out. EXTRUDER_TRAIN.{X}.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE Used to indicate to which temperature a hotend should be heated before the GCode file is started. Note, leave out all the EXTRUDER_TRAIN fields if you are not planning to use that extruder. This example is a single extrusion file, and thus does not has lines for the 2nd hotend. EXTRUDER_TRAIN.{X}.MATERIAL.VOLUME_USED When the initial temperature is set, this field is required. You are allowed to set this at 0 if your slicer cannot fill it in. Right now, it is only used to display towards the user how much filament is going to be used (same as the Ultimaker 2). EXTRUDER_TRAIN.{X}.MATERIAL.GUID This field is OPTIONAL. Good thing it is, as it indicates which exact material this file is intended for. As we are using unique codes that can indicate brand material type and color it's easier to leave this field out if you are not using Cura. The Ultimaker 3 will then not check if the material in the machine matches the one for the GCode. EXTRUDER_TRAIN.{X}.NOZZLE.DIAMETER A required field. While we only ship with 0.4 nozzles in our PrintCores right now. We did account for having future versions with difference nozzles sizes. A mismatch in nozzle size and slicing is bad, I don't think I have to explain that. BUILD_PLATE.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE Another required field. This one is important. Because heating up the bed takes a long time. Which is why we want to start heating it up as soon as possible. So we can level, and do whatever we need to do in the meantime. The file won't start till this temperature is reached. If you put this at 0, it will wait till the bed is cooled down before the print. PRINT.TIME Used for time estimates, same as the Ultimaker 2. This is a required field. But once again, put it at 0 if you cannot fill it. PRINT.SIZE.MIN/MAX.X/Y/Z Required fields. Used to indicate how large the print is. As you can see in the example, we just put the size of the printing volume in there. You can do the same. This does mean that a file prepared for an extended, even if it's not tall, will not be accepted on a normal 3. - So. So far the header. Most likely there will be questions. The GCodes While the Ultimaker 2 supported a very wide range of GCode commands due to being Marlin based. We did strip out a whole lot of unused commands in the Ultimaker 3. So to make it extra clear, these are the commands you are used to and are still supported: G0, G1, G4, M104, M109, M140, M190, M106, M107, M201, M204, M205, M302, M400, M117 While not obvious at first, the most obvious missing code here is G28. Yes, you are not allowed to home the head or the bed anymore. As this screws with the leveling correction code. The printer is homed before and after the print, so there is no real need to have this in a gcode file. So G28 does nothing. - Other absent codes are the M82/M83, relative E mode. I don't know if there is a slicer that depends on this. Due to some archtectual things in the code, these commands are difficult to support right now. (Note, I think they do something, but they might stop working in the future, or we will fix the bugs related to them) - I did not list T0/T1 yet. They are however, fully supported, they are more supported then supported. They are very important. As they switch between the different hotends. This means these codes activate the lifting mechanism. So if you want to abuse the lifting mechanism (and we have done this) you just need a long series of T0 T1 lines. It is important that the machine handles this. Not only improves it compatibility with other possible machines, but the "bay" in which the switching happens isn't 100% in the same location for all machines and thus is at a calibrated position, which only the machine knows. Fun fact, we've ran this lifting mechanism test for days and days in a row on multiple printers. I think we have machines with well over 100000 lifts and not showing a single sign of wear. This did take a few design iterations, as the first lifting mechanism prototypes wore out in 10000 lifts. I don't know our full testing numbers right now. But we abused the hell out of this thing. - New code: G280 There is a new GCode command we added. It primes the nozzle with whatever priming strategy the printer has. As we are tracking the position of the filament in the nozzle, the printer has better information on how to properly prime the nozzle. You are not required to use this, but Cura does. - Other codes might still work, but are not officially supported, and we could break/remove them in the future. However, let us know what you miss so we can make sure we are not breaking anything. Compression .gcode and .g are the traditional file names for a gcode file. We are still supporting and using those. We are also introducing a "new" format. And it is everything except hip and fasionable. - It is.... .gcode.gz. The real nerds I have to explain nothing now. The rest of you, this is just a gcode file, but then compressed, a sort like a zip file, but then even simpler. This does mean a massive file size reduction. It uses "gzip" file compression, which is easy to do on Linux, and for example 7zip can do this on Windows. The cool part for us, as software, is that we can read a .gcode.gz file in exactly the same way as a .gcode file. We don't need to unpack the whole file, we can unpack it as we read it. So we don't need to store a 2GB unpacked gcode file when we are printing. End result is that we can fit more files on a USB stick, and we require less time to send a file to the printer trough a network connection. Wrapping it up This is day 1. What will I tell tomorrow? We shall see. Feel free to put in suggestions, but I have more then enough topics. - - Disclaimer: Any information presented here could be wrong. I did my best to proof read everything, but it could conflict with official statements and the actual behavior of the printer.
  8. 15 points
    Ive made this automata as a birthday present for a good friend of mine. Its called "Flight of thoughts" It function as follows: First a gear is selected, high or low, which determines flight speed and rotational speed of propeller. Then the user determines the flight plane by actuating the control stick And lastly the motion is formed by turning the crank. The plane can then be controlled in flight by the control stick. The design uses a swashplate design to give path, which both rasies and lowers the plane, aswell as choose a fitting nose attitude (pitch). The gears and links are merely for control and actuation. Pictures: Overview Slight other view Plane is loosely basen on a fokker DVI. from ww1 Control stick Crank and gear selector Machine declaration (im an engineer afterall XD)
  9. 14 points
    Difficulty level High Warning, this isn't a easy trick if you don't know every aspect of S3D. And I mean, 'every'. Hi guys,! First, the images... Basic Elements to make this Trick & have cool toplayers (sometimes perfect) - Create a process that REprints only at the height of the last toplayer - Adjust the settings so it doesn't extrude, and it things that his nozzle it's 0.25 size (play with this from 0.25 to 0.35). This trick will make that the nozzle (0.4 for this example) will do MORE passes on the same places, making it a better and smoother sanding. - Adjust the speed of this new process so it's done really fast. Best results so far where at 100mm/s, I had some weird events at 150mm/s and at 70mm/s the speed it's too low and might affect the finish. - You must remove top/bottom layers, set the process to 100% infill and play with the infill angle. - Infill angle of the process MUST occur on the oposite angle of the real print top layer angle. - Extrusion rate of the sanding process must be 0 or 0.02 (it's the less amount s3d allows) What will happen? It will 'sand' the top layer with the nozzle, removing the lines of the extrusion, making the print look much more 'natural' and (ONLY TESTED ON PLA) on PLA it gives a matte (or gloss if you play with the temp/speed & other things...) finish. If you don't know S3D from A to B this will sound like an alien language DOWNLOAD at youmagine my Example in FFF S3D (Factory file with the cube test) Neosanding ready to see how works. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/neosanding-better-toplayers-finish WARNING - The starting/ending Gcode it's the one I use on my machines, IT WILL 100% make the hotend crush with the bedclips, YOU must change it to your machine. If you didn't read this, sorry it's your problem. Also filament size, settings of the normal process, all, it's customized to my UMO+ with 1.75mm, FatIRobertI Bondtech, UM2+ hotend with custom fans. So EVERY setting will need to be readjusted. Disclaimer: I share this so users with basic know-how can understand the concept, I take ZERO responsibility if you didn't read this before using the FFF on your printer. Ok... The first thing to learn to do this trick it's this... Process ORDER DO matter. So... If you have a process (normal print) and the top layer gcode renders 'after' the toplayer sanding effect, then you need to a) Copy/Paste the process (this will make the copied process to pop on 'last' position. b) remove the copied process. Use this method to realign the process up/down as needed. It's the only way to make S3D does the effect just when you want it, and that's just after printing the real top-layer. Edit: Just found out a faster, and easier way to force S3D to do the sanding process after the real print process. If the real print it's done at 0.2000 layer height, then make the Sanding process have 0.2001 layer height. Photos of the basic stuff to have a good control of See that the sanding process it's before the print, this it's unintended. It doesn't need to be group, but weirdly enough it did work. Sometimes Process order won't look this neat, but 99% of the time the sanding process must be just before the real print process. Why? No idea. As you see extrusion it's set to 0.02, extrusion width 0.25 to make more 'sanding' and retractions are off but for big dripping systems (aka 2.85mm or high temp) it might be good to use retracts. The angle of the top layer done by the sanding process, since it has no 'top layer' or 'bottom' it's done by changing the angle of the infill. Remember the object must has 100% infill and NO toplayer or BOTTOM. Old S3D 2.0 did allow to change the top/bottom angle, but 3.x doesn't, so this it's the way to trick it. Since it has no perimeters, you need to increase the outline overlap to at least 60-70%. 99% does work, but might leave marks on the perimeters. If you use 'perimeters' to make cleaner edges, remember to lower this to 40 or so, it's good that it goes beyond the normal area, but not too much. Play with this, each model might need readjustments. Most and most important. On your sanding process you must choose where it happens. Otherwise it will the full object... and.. well, that works too btw, but it will make your print sooo slow and will create gabs of underextrusion on some places Cura? I think to do this on Cura it might need a lot of tricks, you can't make each top layer for each process, and if you mix this and plugins you might just go crazy. I hope @nallath like this and he or other guys make a Toplayer Sanding Plugin to replicate this hack. It works, and works everytime, but it has a few issues that need to be controlled. - It might cause under-extrusion when it goes back to print. I found that the first perimeter printer after doing this effect had a slightly bit less material, no biggie, didn't affect the print. - On high dripping materials this might not work or create mixed results. I did this for PLA since it's the material I use 99% of the time. I don't think that this will be a good idea for materials like wood (easy to scratch) - On very easy to scratch materials, like carbon, wood, etc, YOU might need a Prime tower object to reload the material that did drip. - The temperature of the nozzle while it's doing this will affect the finish. I did some crazy experiments before this playing with z, making the nozzle cooldown, etc. It was ok, but also a bit dangerous because the print could get knockoff, and ofc sometimes the amount of material on the nozzle was too much. - Playing with the Z offset of the sanding process you can actually 'compress' the material, did some crazy tests with this with semitransparent red from colorfabb and was quite cool, but again, that's up to your experimentation. It doesn't work for me, how do I do this!!?? Sorry this it's a really advanced hack with process, isn't something to click-print, and need's a good understanding of how process work and settings, and grouped things share settings, etc... Have fun with process!!
  10. 14 points
    Here's some first impression feedback... Mobile > I really like the ability to go to the last page of the thread on the mobile version of the forum! wanted this for a long time.. Readability > After a few hours (ok I will give it more time..) I think the readability is a lot worse than it was before, not sure whats causing it, maybe the overkill in colored dots, or the huge spacing between everything... think my main wishes for now would be; - remove the repetition of the first post on every page. (also terrible on mobile, to much scrolling) - add the "go to page numbers" also on the top of the page. quick access; I used to get a quick overview of whats new by looking at ONE start page, I would really like to get this back, please add the last post & date to every topic on the main overview page. Search > I used to get good search results with advanced google (search in the forum domain) I hope this is not permanently damaged now its on a new domain. Tried the "in site search" , first impression results are crap, hope this will improve over time but I'm afraid the history is gone. Please add a "back to forum" button on the top of the search result page. Please let me filter out undesired languages in search. General > It seems some web / youtube links work and some don't ??? Assume you'll fix it also on old pages ...
  11. 14 points
    I've been following this dual extrusion discussion for some weeks now. The more I read the more I get the impression that the usual approach doesn't fit for UMs at all. Too bulky, too heavy and so many well known flaws, like oozing and having the second nozzle knocking down prints. It simply makes no sense to me to carry around a second hotend all the time. So I suggested independently moving heads or a tool changing mechanism like CNC machines are using. I couldn't resist ... Just a proof of concept right now but way better then I expected: 0.0 positioning play within the mount, more than enough clamping force, no additional actuators needed C'mon, if I can get this far in two days ...
  12. 14 points
    Hey guys, thanks to the talented 3dlabprint.com team I was able to print my first rc plane on my UM2... It flies absolutely brilliantly! Challenging but fun print!
  13. 13 points
    Over the last few of months (time flies when you're waiting on parts sent via China Post), I built a UM2 clone using Misumi aluminum extrusions. It started as a project to teach myself AutoDesk Fusion 360 but it's turned out to be a great printer. I imported the UM source solidworks files in A360, dropped the walls (frame), and added extrusions and support parts so that all original UM2 hardware is supported. The entire guts is 100% UM2 with all hardware untouched as far as position/size. I used the UM2 assembly manual to build the gantry and to get other wiring clues. I've published it to YouMagine with pretty decent instructions and a BOM. If you have questions, just let me know.
  14. 13 points
    Recently I started experimenting with cutting out vinyl stickers with my Ultimaker 2 and figured I'd share my method to save time for others if they want to do the same thing. Using a 3D printer to do this is nothing new, it has been done plenty of times before. But this is how I did it. Get comfortable, this is going to take a while. I've tried to make it as easy as possible to do but be prepared to do some tweaking and experimenting along the way. What you need (if you want the software to be free): - A holder and knives. The one I got was this: "15pcs 30°/45°/60° Degree For Roland Cutting Plotter Vinyl Cutter BladeHolder" http://r.ebay.com/STTdJx - A printed holder (see zip) - Some vinyl: Available from arts and craft stores, ebay, sign makers etc. I got a random piece from Ebay to try. - Vinyl transfer tape (or in my case, some random blue painters tape from tesa I had in the junk drawer that worked well) - Inkscape to create your design: https://inkscape.org/en/ - dxf2gcode: https://sourceforge.net/projects/dxf2gcode/ - Better Better DXF Output for Inkscape: http://tim.cexx.org/?p=590 - Pronterface/Printrun: https://github.com/kliment/Printrun A slightly modified version of the DXF exporter and dxf2gcode with my current settings are included in this zip: http://www.theintarweb.net/ultimaker/vinyl/um2_vinyl_cutter.zip Setting up your hardware Print out the little mount that is included in the zip. It was made quick and dirty, but it works well enough. Attach it to the head using the screws that hold the fan shroud in place. Install a knife into the holder and adjust the amount it sticks out so that it just barely cuts through your vinyl, but not through the paper backing. It's important to get this distance right or you will either not cut enough, which means you can't remove the excess vinyl, or you'll cut too deep and ruin your knife (good thing the knock-offs are cheap ). As you can see in the image, we're talking a tiny amount that the knife is sticking out. Try the setting on a piece of vinyl by pushing the holder up against the vinyl and dragging the knife in a circle. Try peeling the circle out. It will be obvious if you're cutting too deep or not deep enough. Adjust accordingly. I also recommend using some fine sandpaper to polish off any sharp edges on the front of the knife holder as it will be dragged across the vinyl. Push the holder into the mount in your printer and use a short M3 screw to secure it in place. Install Pronterface and connect your printer to your computer via USB. Set your baud rate to 250000. Choose the correct port (you can find that in the Device Manger in Windows under the "Ports" section) or just pick one from the list in Pronterface and try connecting until you find the right one. The printer will go *clunk* and the lights will go out temporarily, this is normal. You now have full control over your printer. We will use this program to figure out the correct z-distance for your installed knife. Start by clicking on the homing button (the small house) to home all axes on the printer. Next, move the head into a position where you can get a good view of it in relation to the glass. I like to put it in the middle of the bed, slightly towards the front. You do this with the large circle area of Pronterface. Click the different quarter circles to move the head in increments of 0.1, 1 or 10mm in X and Y. Now it's time to raise the bed. In the lower right corner of Pronterface there's a small field where you can put in GCode to be sent to the printer. Type in "G0 Z20" and hit enter. The bed will now move up and stop 20mm from the tip of your nozzle. Now use the buttons next to the quarter circles to raise the bed further until the tip of the blade is just barely in contact with the glass. Type in "M114" into the little box and hit enter. The printer will now give you the current Z-height (in my case it's 1.7mm). Write this number down. Optionally you can also print out "um2_bed.pdf" from the zip and put it underneath the glass. It makes it easier to position the vinyl pieces. Setting up and using the software Start by downloading and installing Inkscape. After the installation is done, unzip the contents of "b2_dxf_output.zip" directly into your "[installation directory of inkscape]/share/extensions" folder. You will be asked to overwrite "simpletransform.py", this is normal. Unzip "exe.win32-3.4.zip" to a place of your choosing. I've included a file called "decal_helper.svg" in the zip. You can use this file as a base to make things easier to position. Make sure that any shapes you draw are not on the "IGNORE:HELPER" layer. That layer will be ignored by dxf2gcode. Also make sure the design is within the red outline. When you're done with your design go to File->Save a copy. Under "Save as type" select "Better Better DXF Output (*.DXF)", this is the extension you installed earlier. If things go according to plan this will save your file as a DXF that dxf2gcode likes (it chokes on the default exporter that is built in by default in Inkscape). Now open up dxf2gcode and go to Options->Configuration. You probably want to start by changing the two paths shown on the top right as you will not have those folders on your system. It's not strictly necessary to change it, but it makes things less of a hassle when importing and saving files. Next, go to the "Machine config" section and put in the value you wrote down earlier in the "Final mill depth" box. Yes, this means that the gcode produced will cause the printer to raise the glass so that it's almost touching the blade when cutting. BUT, we set the blade in the holder so that it only peaks out enough to cut the vinyl, so as long as you have vinyl under the holder, the "springiness" of the gantry will let holder move up ever so slightly and the knife will cut to the perfect depth. Hit "Apply" and close the settings. Now it's time to load the dxf-file you created via File->Open. It may take a little while for the program to process your file. When it's done you'll get a warning about some elements being too short, just hit OK. You should hopefully be looking at something like this now. In this screenshot I've zoomed in on a corner of a path to show the drag knife compensation that dxf2gcode does. This is one of the reasons I picked this program, the other being that it's free. As a last check, make sure that "Z final mill depth" matches your value when clicking on one of the shapes. Now it's time to export the file via Export -> Optimize and Export Shapes. We're almost done. Cut out a piece of vinyl and attach it to your bed. This is where the guide lines in my Inkscape helper-file and the printout comes in handy. I like to put a piece of tape on all sides of the vinyl to make sure it stays firmly planted to the bed. You can probably get away with less, but tape is cheap. Switch back to Pronterface and open the file you just created. Finally, it's time to try your first cut. If your printer has been turned off since you last used Pronterface, remember to home the machine first with the little house button. Hit the Print button and keep a finger on the power button of your printer in case something goes horribly wrong. If all goes well you should now have a freshly cut piece of vinyl ready to clean up and get ready for application. Remove all the excess and then apply some vinyl transfer tape. Use something like a credit card to really push the tape onto the vinyl to make sure it sticks properly. If your design is a bunch of small shapes (text for example), I recommend putting the transfer tape on right away, scrub it down really well and then carefully peel it off, this will lift the letters from the backing (with some patience and a helping hand from tweezers/scalpel). I found this to be a lot easier than trying to pull the excess away from around the text. Did you make it all the way down here? Sweet!
  15. 12 points
    Mark2 is an asymmetrical multi-extrusion upgrade for the Ultimaker 2, based on Foehnsturm's magnetic tool changer. It offers some unique features compared to conventional approaches. Keep it smart and simple The Mark2 upgrade doesn't require to modify or even disassemble the well-working single extrusion setup. Instead it adds a detachable second extruder. This leaves you with several benefits. Powerful - print quality on par with eg. the UM3 or BCN3D Sigma Flexible - use whatever you want: Olsson ruby, 3Dsolex block / nozzles, ... Cost-efficient - all you need is a second drive train, some magnets and screws Simple - all tried-and tested standard components Smart - Z-offset managed by firmware, calibration wizards Open & scalable - a non-extrusion tool head, a 3rd extruder ... all possible Mark2 is an Ultimaker community project, we don't offer a complete kit but we can help you out with a package, including all the parts you need, besides the second drive train. See it live Probably the best way to get an impression of the usability and print quality is to watch a few videos. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLeNzDYMnqAqIeZHWU9iOWnj_2OaemupQG Full Cura 2.5 integration Mark2 comes with a set of Cura definition files and can be added as a pre-configured printer. Tried and tested Mark2 setups have been printing for more than 5.000 hrs now, which equals more than 500.000 tool changes. Beta-testers and co-developers include well-known guys here like Tinkergnome, Ultiarjan and many more. The Mark2 website ultimaker-mark2.com is the place where you find all the information you need for doing this upgrade. ... and The Mark2 Dual Extrusion Project Contest is still running.
  16. 12 points
    Are you one of the many users who need to stop Cura from using the whole CPU as soon you drop a STL to slice? Do you want to enjoy the freedom of being able to change settings without the constant autoslice bullying you? Very easy: Quick tutorial to stop Cura from autoslicing at every single change. How to: - Change Flow to 1% - Done! How to restart autoslice - Change flow to 100% - Done! Easy enough? So easy I made a video, because this deserves it! a 3 Minutes video! That's how much I enjoy this trick Note, yea my English is NO BUENO. I know Press Like on this 'idea' to show that you like to be able to stop Autoslice! (or don't if you love to use more CPU than necessary and you don't care about energy savings or the poor Rain Forest!)
  17. 12 points
    Here my project has been growing over the last 2 weeks. I first made sections with one glass and I coupled them And now it is the final size and very difficult to move:) And here it belongs as you see the station still needs a lot of work But it is getting somewhere. And difficult to put it on my camera it is getting to big...
  18. 12 points
    Hey guy's. Its been a while since I posted anything on here so I thought I'd share this with you. Although this is my first post in a long time, I've still been lurking in the forums and I have to say I'm blown away by some of the stuff you guys have been printing. Seriously inspiring stuff! I've just launched my new website so head over to see some 3D renders of this guy leohaslam.com Cheers
  19. 12 points
    I helped to print in 3D a wonderful job! Dmitri Dubyaga my friend and Colleges. Meet brotherbear-of-steel, #fallout #falloutstyle he created the 3D model within 14 days. I printed it for 36 hours on 3D printer #ultimaker2 and pla #rec. 5 days later, Dmitry painted by hand with acrylic paints
  20. 11 points
    Now I can trully say that I have this fully working. It might be summer but Winter is coming. Printed at 65mm/s 0.15 layer with supercheap pla. 4h print. Zero errors. Sliced with Cura. I need to align x/y a bit better but today finally had time to watch it print a long 4h. Totally unattended until the prime tower fells. But even so the print didn't fail. Printed design: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/robot-ice-winter-is-coming
  21. 11 points
    I finally had to give up my attempts to reset the password and do as Dim3nsioner :-) I would strongly suggest Ultimaker, as many of the other heavy users here does, to step back a few steps and reopen the old forum. Then you should set up some proper internal meetings, possibly hire an expert to sort out internal conflicts and help focusing Ultimaker on future goals. The person who designed this forum, and the person who took the decision to put it online should be moved to other positions in Ultimaker in my opinion. I can not recall that I have seen anything as badly handled as this in my rather extensive history on various forums the past 15 years. When I recommend people to buy and Ultimaker my two main points are that it is common and that it has a great user community. I do not point at it's great printing quality anymore as the competitors has caught up or are even ahead. I think Ultimaker are not even close to realizing the value of the community and all the information in the old threads and how volatile this might be. Lots of nice and clever people spend an awful lot of time here for free just to help others, which creates a nice experience around Ultimaker. Most 3D-printer manufacturers could only dream of having this kind of community and Ultimaker for sure is playing with fire right now. I am probably moving on if the forum does not get back to something like it was before. There is a demand for good discussion 3d-printing discussion boards and I am sure someone will step in unless Ultimaker does something drastic. So please Ultimaker, step back a few steps, get back the old forum, take your time sorting out internal conflicts and strategy, then take your summer vacation and postpone any updated forums until autumn!
  22. 11 points
    And so it starts. Just go an email from high up asking me not to reply on the forum anymore. I'm not backing down. I think you guys are too important for this. I'll keep you updated.
  23. 10 points
    I am very pleased to be given the opportunity to publicly reveal our current project. We have been commissioned to produce a studio scale Imperial Star Destroyer to coincide with the upcoming release of Rogue One which is scheduled for release this coming December. Our Patrons wish to, at least for the time being, remain anonymous however they have graciously given us permission to reveal publicly our project. We wanted to wait until we reached an important milestone that was far enough along to demonstrate the size and scope of this project. This is a mixed media project using both our Ultimaker 2+ Extended and our X-Carve with J-Tech Photonics 3.8W laser. We decided at the outset to tackle perhaps the most difficult section first the drive section and so far we are very pleased with the results we are getting from our process.
  24. 10 points
    Update 2015-04-12: - The heater block can be ordered here: http://www.3dsolex.com - Further information about ordering and installing the custom heater block can be found in this post: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=95991 - Some more things to keep in mind when installing the custom heater block: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7689-custom-heater-block-to-fit-e3d-nozzle-on-ultimaker-2/?p=89581 Hi! I have printed some very abrasive home-made filament lately which eats my expensive UM2 nozzle a bit too quickly... :shock: Removing the nozzle also feels like an accident waiting to happen. I particularly dislike the fixing screw for the sensor and the heater. In fact, at one of my heater blocks the screw does not even fix the heater. The heater still stays there since it is pushed in by the cable, but I don't see that as good way of fixing it. So lately I have been putting some effort in finding a better design. I looked around for nozzles and the smallest suitable one I found was the E3D-V6. Based on the design of the original heater block I made a slightly stretched version with a modified way of fixing the heater and the sensor. Here is the result: :smile: Some of the dimensions were a bit off and I only just started testing it, but it looks fine so far and I think this could potentially be a way forward. At least for me it would be a major improvement if this works smoothly.
  25. 10 points
    Ok, I'll give it a try to post something in this thread to keep it alive. We will see if this does make sense for the future. Latest project: Casting mold for a rubber seal for a mast of a sailing boat. We did this before but by covering a milled core with layers and layers of natural rubber. Problem was that this material is not UV stable and starts to get brittle over the years. So as a new trial we decided to make a mold and to cast this from 2K Silicone based rubber. Unfortunately the dimensions of the mold exceeded the building space of the UM2 to it had to be divided in parts. 6 parts for the outer mold, 4 parts for the core. Total printing time about 150 h, material is Firetruck-Red PLA from Fabberdashery. some pics of the previous one we made to show the idea behind...
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