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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/12/2019 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I just want to share the outcome of several ordered, returned and tested boxes for single filament spools. For the storage of more sensitive materials I looked for a single box solution, because the bigger boxes need to much space in my "maker space". After searching the web & forums I only found one Lock Lock box which should fit a spool. I ordered it, and yes it fits a spool, but its a little bit too big. So I tried other types and finally found a good box which fits perfectly a 750g spool. These two boxes are working: Lock & Lock HSM952 (fits perfectly) ~ € 11.- Lock & Lock HSM947 (a little bit too big, but if you have thicker spools, or want to put an additional 350g spool to a 750g its also ok) ~ € 12.50 Not cheap, but I decided to store only the sensitive ones in the boxes, so it is ok for me. Normal PLA is in a cupboard with some bigger (1kg) silica packs and should be more than enough. In each single boxes I put 2 10g silica packs. So just as information if someone is looking for a suitable box for a single spool of filament.
  2. 2 points
    Cura 3.3 introduced the concept of setting visibility presets: When I implemented that menu, I always meant to follow up with a way to add custom presets. I never got round to doing that. As a stop-gap measure, here's a plugin that will let you save your current set of visible settings in a preset: For Cura 3.6: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SettingVisibilityProfileCreator-v5.0.0-2019-01-12T13_50_55Z.curapackage For Cura 4.0: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SettingVisibilityProfileCreator-v6.0.0-2019-01-12T13_50_26Z.curapackage After downloading the file for your Cura version, drop it into a running Cura window. Then restart Cura. The functionality of creating a new set can be found in the "Extenions" menu.under "Setting Visibility Sets". Selecting "Store Custom Setting Visibility Set", you currently visible settings will be stored into a new preset. In this first version it is not possible to edit a preset, but you can overwrite a previously stored preset. It would be better if functionality would be available in the setting visibility hamburger menu, but that cannot be done with a plugin without a lot dirty tricks. Ideally the functionality of this plugin will be moved into Cura itself, but that will not be added before Cura 4.1, and by making it a plugin I could make it available for Cura 3.6 and newer.
  3. 2 points
    I have secured mine with these little "blockers" Here the STL if you want to print it - S5_Blocker.stl (print 2 normal, and 2 mirrored)
  4. 2 points
    I would also not place a printer so close to the edge of a cabinet without some extra security....
  5. 1 point
    My first experiment with this that i saw on youtube somewhere. My friend asked me to give it a go and this is just some cloned beveled triangles arranged with enough room for flex of the thickness of the mosaic. Annoying to remove but not too bad. Easy to print. Worked first time.
  6. 1 point
    Du hast mehr Einstellmöglichkeiten falls das einmal notwendig sein sollte z.B. anderer Feeder wo du die E Steps verstellen musst. Weiters siehst du also mehr Parameter während des Druckens. Ich habe die Firmware auf meinem Um2Go, weil ich dort ein Heizbett verbaut habe und die normale Firmware damit nicht umgehen kann. Falls du diese Features nicht brauchst, dann gewinnst du nicht viel damit, auf der anderen Seite ist es schon nett wenn man die Möglichkeiten hat diverse DInge zu konfigurieren. (z.B. Lichtsteuerung, oder Display ausschalten während des druckens)
  7. 1 point
    It could be the z seam. Try to set to set "Z Seam Alignment" to random, then it should be distributed all over your object.
  8. 1 point
    Hi Fabian and welcome aboard! Are you sure you have calibrated your bed correctly? It looks like, your nozzle is too far away from the bed.
  9. 1 point
    The one way I can come up with that would to do that is to use the register function as a factory (eg; Check API version, return different object depending on the version). But that's far from ideal.
  10. 1 point
    I would very much appreciate it if the Marketplace could keep serving older versions of my plugins for older versions of Cura. If not, I would still have to test new versions of my plugins with the older versions. Take the OctoPrint Connection plugin as an example. Due to changes in Cura, there has only been one recent release (3.5 -> 3.6) where the plugin did not need minor or major changes to work with the next version, in a way that broke it for the previous version. If the version I released for Cura 2.7 would still be available in the 2.7 plugin browser, it would still work. But there's no way I'm going to be able to make a version that works correctly in Cura 2.7 and Cura 4.0.
  11. 1 point
    Yeah, this was a stupid oversight on our end. I'm now changing the way Cura loads plugins so it's possible to have a single package / plugin be able to support multiple Cura versions (thus not forcing plugin devs to select a single Cura version that they publish their plugin for). Sorry for the confusion / issues about this.
  12. 1 point
    Ok so ive solved it with a bit of lateral thinking and probably a lot of luck on my part . I mannaged to restore the 3.4 configuration folder (am using window 7 and have previous version stufff enabled). So fully recovered all my profiles and settings ... Bonus :-) Then I realised there was an even easier way.. As I in the CURA config folder the zip file used to store stuff through CURA Backup wasin there too!! Think panic had set in for a little while and logical thinking had gone out of the window !
  13. 1 point
    The current stable version is Cura 3.6. Cura 4.0 is only available in beta. Plugins need to be adapted for Cura 4.0. In the past few weeks it has become apparent that plugins currently can only be available in the Toolbox/Marketplace for one Cura version at a time. Most plugins are available for Cura 3.6
  14. 1 point
    Getting a big spool to feed to your S5 ...
  15. 1 point
    jenny8008, Your settings worked perfectly. I am now able to use Cura on my Alta. Thank you SO much; this will give me so much more control over my prints. Silhouette 3D is just *so* bad at generating supports. I really, really appreciate your help!
  16. 1 point
    What you did not mention was that the error does NOT say "There is No Disk in Drive D" or "There is No Disk in Drive X". Windows wants a disc inserted into \Device\Harddisk11\DR11. For future reference, omitting that detail makes it harder to help you. First step is trying to find out what drive \Device\Harddisk11\DR11 is. What sort of drives do you have connected to your computer, including cardreaders, optical drives. and usb (hard)drives? Also, what version of Windows do you use?
  17. 1 point
    Doesn't look like PC is compatible with the breakaway support based on their compatibility matrix: https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/49799-material-compatibility In my personal experience PC printed very well using PC as the support material.
  18. 1 point
    Perfect start posting when joining a new community, welcome on board.
  19. 1 point
    Yes and no, you have to change a lot to print with 1.75. Print Cores, which are officially only available for 2.85, Bowden Tube, and you have to modify or change the feeder as well. After you have changed all these things you will probably get problems with the long Bowden tube and the thin filament. So I would not do that, you get a lot of drawbacks and no real advantages.
  20. 1 point
    Here are some photos of a Chainmail sphere in progress. It's from a design I created ten years ago and thankfully the writeup is still available. The plan is to write an updated tutorial with some easier techniques that have now surfaced. Les
  21. 1 point
    I think that is what most of the people do. This is my suggestion for the new interface.
  22. 1 point
    Thank you all for the feedback and the suggestions! As for the "print dry" suggestion, I am well aware of just how moistures sensitive many Nylons and other filaments are, so I'm in the process of building a drybox with a mount for the original NFC Reader. Interestingly, UM Nylon seems to be less moisture sensitive than UM CPE, not to speak of TPU - seems that the claims about reduced moisture uptake are more than marketing. Thank you @gr5 for your profile insights! I tried them out, and parts come out much more accurate than with the default profile. After tweaking the horizontal expansion setting a bit, too, I am quite happy with the resulting dimensions, inner holes being near-perfect, and outer dimensional innaccuracy of max. 0.1mm. Ultimaker, if you're listening - dimensionally accurate "engineering profiles" would be most certainly appreciated by your customers, and would be one more reason to stay with UM materials...
  23. 1 point
    Nylon is difficult to print and you shouldn't compare the S5 with nylon versus the prusa i3 with PLA. But overall I agree with most of your comments. I think UM should come out with an "engineering" profile that prints with higher dimensional accuracy. Here are the steps I do to improve dimensional accuracy over default profiles: 1) Set all printing speeds to be the same - anytime you speed up or slow down you over/under extrude briefly. Slower speeds will give better results. I usually print at 35mm/sec (ALL 6 or so printing speeds) and 0.2mm layers and the parts are both accurate and gorgeous and just as fast as 100mm/sec (primary speed) at 0.1mm layers. 2) Disable jerk control and acceleration control. When enabled it prints slower and prints have more globby corners because it takes longer to slow down and overextrusion can be quite prominent on the corners. jerk control and acceleration control remove "ringing" which can be ugly but is too small to measure with a micrometer so in "engineering mode" or "accuracy mode" we should embrace the ringing in exchange for higher accuracy of parts. Back to nylon. Make sure you keep the nylon very dry. Even just printing it for a single 12 hour print in a humid (70% humidity or worse) environment is enough to degrade it and it needs drying again. I recommend 2 25gram dessicant packs stored with the filament that color-change when wet and recharge the packs in a microwave (very easy to do with some experience) every time they turn to the "wet color". I leave the spool in a 2 gallon zip lock with the dessicant and open the zip lock only enough to let the filament out and print it like that - spool in zip lock with filament leaving the small hole to the feeder. Nylon can be reset/dried by putting the whole spool on the heated bed of your printer at 95C overnight with a towel thrown over it. Or in a cardboard box. 100C can warp some spools a bit but the nylon will be fine. 95C is safer. Very wet nylon makes a hissing/popping sound and comes out snowy/spongy/foamy. Dry nylon comes out glossy and natural color nylon comes out clear when dry - bottom layer should be transparent. Also cover the front and top of the printer and use a heated bed temp of 100C to get the air temp up to 35C inside. Set the fan low to get good layer adhesion (default nylon profile fan speed is probably okay for S5 but much too fast on my UM3).
  24. 1 point
    Whay not? Usually saving a Project in any app means that when you return working on a particular project you star where you left off. What is than a purpose of saving a Project anyway ? Regards Mario
  25. 1 point
    In the beginning, I also had trouble that Cura wouldn't print things smaller than 0.4mm (UM2 with standard 0.4mm nozzle). So for printing small text, I designed my own character set on a 0.5mm grid. Thus all strokes are wider than 0.4mm, with some spare: vertical and horizontal strokes are exactly 0.5mm wide. Diagonal strokes have a width between 0.48 and 0.53mm. Caps-height is 3.5mm, and most characters are 2.0mm wide (except W, M, and a few others). These characters are very easy to design, and they print reasonably well if printed cool and slow enough. I also tried different variants of some characters, to see which are printed best for raised text, recessed text, and hollowed-out text (=completely inside transparant material, as a watermark). See the picture for an idea of the characters. Edit: added pictures of these characters 3D-printed as hollowed-out text, thus text fully enclosed by this transparant PET material. Here too: caps-height is 3.5mm, character width is 2.0mm.
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