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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/05/2021 in all areas

  1. "At least according to the marlin config file from creality". Over the course of the last year or so, Creality ran out of various parts and made substitutions. Among the parts that they substituted were mainboards. They grabbed what boards they had available, did quicky patches to the firmware, installed the boards and sold the machines. There were issues and one of them was that G2 / G3 was not enabled. Another issue was the M0/M1/M117 glitch that killed the ability to use the "Pause at Height" plugin. Yes, it's a 32 bit mainboard but memory is memory and I've seen no mention of
    2 points
  2. We missed the dual extrusion issue. It's something that we should have caught but didn't. Since a lot of people have also reported this on github (thanks for that!), we already have fix for this and have changed the tests that we run per release so that this shouldn't happen anymore. We do print a dual extrusion model every release, but the model that we used didn't exhibit the problem (Which was unfortunately one of the few models that didn't have the issue...). As people might have noticed, we also didn't get any reports about this during the beta (which is unfortunate, but the primary respo
    2 points
  3. Time for me to eat dirt - the problem was down entirely to me, sorry! The explanation was that for this project, after slicing, I had taken advantage of the handy Cura feature that allowed me to save directly to the SD card (in its USB stick). I didn't notice that this does not let me specify a new name. For all my previous projects I had saved the gcode to my project folder on the PC, with my choice of filename. I then copied that to the SD card before inserting in the printer. I'll revert to that method from now on! The speed and automatic reject of the other method i
    2 points
  4. If the heat commands are in the Start Gcode with variable names (Cura keywords), then Cura will use them. They would need to be first in the start-up gcode. In this case Cura will not add additional heating commands. ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code M109 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} M190 S{material_bed_temperature_layer_0} M104 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} M140 S{material_print_temperature_layer_0} results in: ;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.0 M82 ;absolute extrusion mode ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code M109 S50 M190 S50 M104 S210
    2 points
  5. Maybe you can get that to work with the SVG toolpath plugin. I've not worked with that myself, but i've seen people do some pretty crazy things with that.
    2 points
  6. My S5 started to make some unpleasant noises when the print bed moved up and down. The issue was in my case that the white plastic cover at the back of the print bed carriage has deformed over time. One of the through holes in the plastic cover moved and was now touching the z-axis rod. This could also happen to your S5 printer over time. I will try to explain what I did to solve the issue. I also took some pictures from the parts inside with some comments. Before the repair: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt96xhdoyvbb1ex/Before_repair.mp4?dl=0 After the repair:
    1 point
  7. There is no feature to turn the skin before the walls. The skin layers are printed best after the walls. I would say that you might have some adhesion issues here. I have to option in mind here: try some settings to make the adhesion for the first layer easier. Try a higher first line height (like 0.25mm) and an increased first layer with (like 120%). Print the first layer slow (20 or even 15mm/s). I kinda guess from experience that your nozzle is carrying the first printed hole line away? Second idea: remove the bottom layers (by setting them to 0) and check infill before the
    1 point
  8. Also, a big hot bed causes a lot of upwards airflow, cooling the sides of the model differently. And the nozzle-coolers also cool very unevenly, where they happen to be. If prints are removed from the bed too early, before being cold, I could imagine that they would also be more prone to warping. It seems that molecular structure of PLA also keeps changing for some time after printing, becoming more and more crystalline. It becomes more brittle, but I don't know if this changes stresses and dimensions? I always let parts cool in the printer on the bed slowly, before attempting to r
    1 point
  9. If you see this tangling beginning while it is still printing, a temporary solution is sometimes to manually unwind and loosen up some filament, very carefully, without interrupting the printing. Then roll it up again and make sure it is still free, so you can continue printing for a few more hours. Repeat untill your print is completed, and then you can really handle it as described above. I have had to do that too, I think we all have...
    1 point
  10. Maybe those people used Cura 4.9.0? We upgraded a number of things so big sur would be supported better. Also; as a developer, knowing that it doesn't occur with everyone is actually a helpful bit of information.
    1 point
  11. The USB Printing option in Cura is un-maintained (Ultimaker printers don't use it anymore). Connection is supposed to be automatic so there are no options to pick a port, or a baud rate. Check in the Cura Marketplace under Installed and scroll down to "USB Printing" and make sure it's installed and checked. When you are sure it's installed and active... Turn off the printer. Close Cura. Disconnect the USB cable. Start the printer, let it finish booting, and re-connect the cable. The printer should re-boot when it sees the 5 volt signal on the USB cable. Make
    1 point
  12. I know, old thread and all of that, but there is an awkward workaround to this huge flaw in Cura. Update the profile with the setting tweaked. (Update profile with current settings / overrides). This is important for step 5. Go to Help --> Show Configuration Folder Close out of Cura. Open the "quality_changes" folder. Sort by date, and you'll see your latest changes in one of the files, if you open the last changed file. Open that file in notepad and search for the value that you changed. (i.e. 205 if you changed your standby temperature to
    1 point
  13. In the new "Mesh Tools"-plugin there's also an option to choose the desired unit: Regards
    1 point
  14. It would make much more sense to ask Creality for support. Given that this is an LCD-type resin printer, I don't think Cura will be the suitable slicer for this printer.
    1 point
  15. Again, I don't think vacuum bags will help. You need dessicant. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dessicant&qid=1620530771&sr=8-4 Also once you get water in the filament, no amount of vacuum or dessicant will help - you need to heat it as I describe above.
    1 point
  16. Well, there is a mirror tool in Cura, is it this what you're looking for? A picture from the manual: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011927800-How-to-mirror-models-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    1 point
  17. It is being addressed, but wouldn’t you rather have a tested solution than a quick one?
    1 point
  18. The trickery by @GregValiant is totally unnecessary. While it is true that Cura places models on the buildplate regardless of their original location, it does remember the origin of the individual models. The "merge models" function @IRobertI mentioned is meant exactly for this scenario, and restores the original relative position of the models.
    1 point
  19. Select the models as a group by holding down shift and clicking each one. Then right click on one of them and select "Merge models".
    1 point
  20. Und falls das auch nicht stimmt kann man die .ufp Datei auch mit einer Zip-Anwendung öffnen und dort den "model.gcode" ändern. Gerade versucht und funktioniert Enthaltene Ordner:
    1 point
  21. Also nur um Missverständnisse vorzubeugen, ich habe keinen UM3. Bin einfach her gegangen und hab in Cura einen UM3 ausgewählt und mit diesen Einstellungen wo Standard gesetzt sind ein Dual Modell in scheiben geschnitten Und ja die 100C standen bei Standby Temperatur von Extruder 2 Wo diese hergenommen wurde weis ich auch nicht den bei Generic PVA steht 175C als Standby Temperatur Auch wenn man Ultimaker PVA auswählt bleibt 100C obwohl 175C in den Material steht Die Nachbearbeitungs Scripte/Plugin sollten doch beim S5 auch
    1 point
  22. In Cura use "File | Save Project" and post the 3mf file here. Support blockers can be configured in different ways and when set to "overlaps" you can change the wall count, infill density, whatever.
    1 point
  23. Wennst du doch schon eine Konfiguration heruntergeladen hast wofür brauchst du dann noch eine Costum Drucker. Für was war dann die Konfiguration? Für was musst du warten bist der Drucker frei ist, Druckst du über USB oder wie verstehe ich das? Man kann doch in Cura einfach einen Würfel (bzw. zwei weil Dual) und slicen lassen und diese teilen Nur mal kurz nebenbei. Wenn man in Cura 0 einträgt kann es den Bauraum nicht mehr richtig begrenzen. Über den Plugin ("Versatz mit Extruder") kann man einstellen ob der Versatz mit in gcode einflie
    1 point
  24. Take a look at the "mb-testing" branch: https://github.com/smartavionics/CuraEngine/tree/mb-testing/src/infill
    1 point
  25. @nallath Python Zeroconf is again a likely offender. OctoPrint plugin includes and uses a newer version of it, which fixes at least one memory leak. The OctoPrint plugin also has an option not to use zeroconf for discovery at all, which could be an option to give the people that are affected by this issue (relegating them to manual instances).
    1 point
  26. Ganz Ganz unten wie im 2ten Bild markiert Ist ja wie ein Costum Setting OK abgehakt evtl. noch mit 100 Wenn es dir halt zu hell ist versuch halt S10 oder so und nicht nur S2 😁 Das ist richtig Wird aber halt nur das erste mal aufgerufen daher brauchst du das M116 direkt in startcode + da die Achsen noch nicht Referenziert sind wird es vermutlich gar nicht ausgeführt, aber das erste T0 kann man nur mit aufwand verhindern in Cura Richtig beobachtet, Standard ist 1C Toleranz wo dann fortgefahren wird
    1 point
  27. A layer height of .8 is really pushing it. At 1/2 nozzle diameter you would do better. The nozzle has to "squish" the plastic on to the bed in order to get it to stick. That brings up problem #2... "So once set, it should print the whole stack. Once printed, these layers will be separated, kind of making wireframe/stencil. Is that possible?" Poor layer adhesion and a resultant failure of a printed part is the most popular failure mode of FDM. A lot of research has gone into getting layers to adhere to each other better. It is necessary to get the first lay
    1 point
  28. I have a DuetWifi controller on a FolgerTech FT5 and use the Pause at height for RepRap firmware function. It only allows entering the pause height in mm (I use mm)(some allow mm or layer but not this one). I have to use my 3d modeling software to determine where I want my layer breaks and write them down before loading the STL file into Cura. Sometimes, usually, I have to resize the Z axis height in Cura and now I don't know what my pause points are unless I use the slider and calculate the new mm value by multiplying the layer number by the layer height in the slicer. For example layer 125 X
    1 point
  29. Unter Cura auf ->Datei ->Projekt speichern und die erzeugte 3MF-Datei hier posten. So können die Leute das Projekt laden und haben die Einstellungen 1:1 auf ihrem eigenen Rechner. Was für einen Drucker benutzt du? Mir ist jetzt nur die Linienbreite aufgefallen, die steht bei dir auf genau 0,4mm. Könnte u.U. eine Fehlerursache sein.
    1 point
  30. Well, the step file is published on GitHub: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Ultimaker3/tree/master/2137/2137-A If you want exactly this part - just convert it to stl format. A convenient way is: https://www.opencascade.com/products/cad-assistant/ 2137-A.stl
    1 point
  31. Mhmm ☹️ Kann schon sein das ich nochmal geschrieben hatte "ich würde es noch drin lassen bis auch die Makros usw. eingefahren sind". Und bei den Bed.g Makro ist er dir ja in der Seite gefahren, normal falls es damals aktiv war, soll nur der Motor geskippt sein und keine Riemen übersprungen sein. Sobald bei mir Riemen überspringen Lösse ich alle Pulley und richte die Achsen aus bzw. ich kontrolliere es, da es ja sein kann das die unterschiedlich übersprungen sind (also z.B. der eine ein Zahn mehr) und somit verspannt sind. Aber du musst bei den Befehlen den Sinn versteh
    1 point
  32. Hello, I'm glad someone linked to the support articles. They are a good resource to check first. I would indeed recommend using the adhesion sheets or something similar. There are upsides and downsides to an adhesion sheet, a downside being that the entire adhesion sheet is not easy to remove so you will have one side of your buildplate with the adhesion sheet. (Unless you have more than one glass plates). A friendly alternative, which is also mentioned in the support article is the adhesive from Magigoo: https://magigoo.com/products/magigoo-pp/ Magigoo has pretty good adhesives for 3D printin
    1 point
  33. Looks perfect except E100 is much too much extrusion - this is the distance the filament moves and even if you have 1.75mm filament (would be even worse for 3mm filament) that's much too much extrusion. You need to do some math. 290mm of travel X (I assume you have 0.4 nozzle) 0.4 X 0.15 = 17.4 cubic mm of filament. Now assuming 1.75mm filament... 17.4 / (area of filament) = 17.4 / (3.14 * (1.75/2)^2) = 7.24mm So if you extrude 7.24mm of filament it will be the exact right amount (E7.24 not E100) However you want to overextrude by 30 to 100% so
    1 point
  34. When printing PP, I put packaging tape on the bed surface. The tape will fuse with the molten filament.
    1 point
  35. I also had your problems in the beginning and I were never really able to solve it with just glue. Ultimaker recommends adhesion sheets, I mostly use some cheap kapton tape (not original Kapton). If you have problems in future with any materials, Ultimaker is providing imo great informations on their materials, for PP see following: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011957660-How-to-print-with-Ultimaker-PP
    1 point
  36. Aso ja gefunden In Cura Start-Code gehört bei G10, P0 statt P1 Wartet der Drucker beim Aufheizen? Also mal schauen bei welcher Temp der anfängt zum drucken evtl. brauchst du dann noch M116 S3 nach den T0 einfügen. Das S3 (= ±3C) ist die Toleranz ab wann er loss drucken darf
    1 point
  37. Ja das meine ich mit ausklammern, in der CNC Schreibweise sind Klammern für die Kommentare vorgesehen. Weis du noch für was das M913 war? 😁😇😎 Ich hatte damals geschrieben am Anfang der config das ist natürlich Blödsinn, habe am ende eine Makro für "Experimentier Einstellungen" zu laden geschrieben. Brauchst aber nicht auf 100% setzen sondern einfach Auskommentieren Naja OK Vielleicht habe ich da einen denk Fehler 1% von 24V ist ja nur 0,24V wie soll da eine LED leuchten? OK es ist nur eine Frequenz, bin jetzt kein Elektro Ingenieur
    1 point
  38. OK alles gut Habe vielleicht etwas überreagiert Hast du die Senkung des Motorstroms M913 ausgeklammert, ich würde dieses auch am ende der config verschieben und nicht mitten drin. Falls noch nicht würde ich noch mal Z0 vorsichtig manuell langsam anfahren, nicht das bei deiner Z0 ab Nullung die Z-Achse ein paar schritte verloren hat und jetzt bei 100% höher rumpelt Ok ja jetzt kommt es mir. Ich habe damals schon bei meinen Dual umbau die UM2 Konfiguration kopiert und da ein paar Sachen direkt in den Dateien geändert deshalb konnte ich es wahrschein
    1 point
  39. There is no way to download G-code for recently printed jobs (that are still visible in the 'recent history') via the user interface. However you can download the G-code for the current print job from the printer API. You could re-print the job you need the G-code for from the recent history and then use the API to download it. Seems like the endpoint you're looking for is http://[your_printer_ip]/api/v1/print_job/gcode. You'll need authenticate with the printer API to use this endpoint (see http://[your_printer_ip]/docs/api/#/Authentication for details about that).
    1 point
  40. Maybe 15% infill isn't enough? For moulds, I use 25%, and to me that already feels like the minimum. After printing, my moulds are totally flat, but they are much smaller, about 10cm long. Did you post-process the thing? I found that chemical smoothing with dichloromethane tends to make moulds warp slightly too. Especially since I only smooth the inside (=casting side), not the outside of the shell, so it is uneven. Probably the chemicals go deep into the material, and into the hollows of the infill, and keep working there. Acetone smoothing tends to make them crack after some time
    1 point
  41. I looks like the Ultimaker adds the line from within Cura (rather than as an ending Gcode script). There are two ways to do it. If you think you would use the cool-down script all the time you could put it at the end of your "End Gcode" script in the printer Machine Settings in Cura. The M140 S0 line would still be there but the code will execute so fast in the printer that the bed won't have time to cool down before it hits the first M190 line. If it's a one-shot deal then open the gcode file and insert the cool-down code between the "M104 S0" line and the ";End of G
    1 point
  42. You didn't mention your printer. My Creality machine has an End G-Code that Cura inserts at the end of any gcode file. I would make an adjustment there. If you have an Ultimaker printer you might still get it to work. An option would be to add it manually to the end of a gcode file. There will be a line "M140 S0" that turns the bed off. Comment that out and put the following at the end where it will execute last. I'm assuming a bed temperature of 60°. ;M140 S0 ;Add a semi-colon to make the line a comment M190 R60 G4 S3000 M190
    1 point
  43. Do you have a network drive mapped to the driveletter X:? If so, try mapping it to a different drive-letter.
    1 point
  44. Hi, I was reading the documentation about "Filter out tiny gaps" setting. The documentation (https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012512340-Shell-settings) says Some gaps between walls are so small that the extra travel path is not worth the extra extrusion to compensate for it. Enable this feature to fill those minuscule gaps anyway, if needed. What I understand form this sentence is that if I put the checkmark the Cura fills the gaps, but the real behavior is the exact opposite (as suggested by the very name of the setting Filter out tiny gaps
    1 point
  45. I have MacOS 11.0 - Cura 4.8 - and fixed it with - Adding Cura to "Security & Privacy" - "Privacy" - "Full Disk Access"
    1 point
  46. Yes, that was a bad experience. As Longtoke points out, it wasn't the fault of Cura. When you push the "Home" button, Cura sends the command "G28" to the printer and that is all it does. That G28 is interpreted by the firmware in the printer as "home all axis" and the printer starts the axis motors and moves the print head to the "0" endstops of the X, the Y, and the Z axis. The speed that the motors run at is also set within the firmware and Cura cannot effect the homing speed. It is then each endstop switch's job to inform the firmware "OK you can stop the motor now". When e
    1 point
  47. Yeah I'll be a bit more thorough, also including 2.3.1 which was the latest 32-bit release: http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_amd64.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_i386.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win64.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1.AppImage
    1 point
  48. We put a lot of effort in creating the content for all of the courses and lesson plans in our Academy, and we hope they’ve proven to be educational for you. But why stop learning after completing a course? It’s not unlikely that you’d like to continue to discuss and learn about that subject. Most users visit the community because they want to learn more about 3D printing. We’re looking forward hearing from you! Join the discussion and continue to learn together.
    1 point
  49. Note: first make sure you are comfortable editing files with “vi”. It is a text editor. Google it, fear it.
    1 point
  50. Hi, guys! I'd like to share my experience in double extrusion on Ultimaker 2. I guess it will be useful. Several month ago i bought Ulticreatr 2X (see the post above). I knew it was not good (according to some replies here), but desire to upgrade my printer and to make double coloured print prevailed. After it was delivered, I decided to postpone installation. Designers of the Ulticreatr 2X said that its feature didn't allow to use heated bed. So, i decided to study this problem first. I don't want to describe all my way to double extrusion. It was thorny. Besides heated bed issue, ne
    1 point
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