Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/24/2020 in all areas

  1. That is what I said, in a few more words. Let's not forget, Ultimaker is a company and we need to be lucrative otherwise we cease to exist. We try to do this while staying as close with our customers as possible, but that doesn't mean we can do everything. I think this forum and the community as a whole proves among other things, that we like to stay close to our customers and that we listen to them. Even our developers are directly engaged with our customers. So as I said and you concluded, somewhat alternative products exist and it would take a lot of resources to develop and maintain a
    2 points
  2. Exactly. I would like the streamlined and clean, “all in one” aspect of it.
    2 points
  3. No extra Raspberry Pi! No extra PSU! No extra firmware and keep it up to date! No extra "company" to ask questions if having problems! No extra I don't know what, but I'm sure there is more...
    2 points
  4. So, I made an executive decision and renamed allow---z-axis-changes to --allow-3d-arcs. I figure that's easier to understand, and better to do it now than later. The artifacts should be rebuilding as we speak. Also, there is no raspberry pi console app in case anyone is wondering. I can build one, but still working to get a self hosted runner so that it's automatic.
    2 points
  5. Below the sample printing video with PLA+PVA after modification.
    2 points
  6. That's not enirely true. You can load image files (jpg) into Cura, and they will be converted into a 3d relief, also known as a lithophane: https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ei=6w-xX8_LJITpsAf0h7WQAw&q=lithophane+cura
    2 points
  7. well, you'll find the RAFT option under Build Plate Adhesion. Then you can change the settings that match your needs. I don't understand why you want the raft to be a few mm thick though. One layer should be enought.
    1 point
  8. @gr5 thanks a lot for the hack Finally, there is a hack. If you have very simple geometry and you don't need any fill, you can model instead a cube in CAD. Then uncheck the "infill" and set both "top layers" and "top thickness" to zero. Voila - a box where the nozzle just does one pass.
    1 point
  9. Even OpenGL does not get the 3d model you see, with volume added to the extrusion lines. That volume is added with a GPU shader, and cannot be captured.
    1 point
  10. Thanks everyone for contributing. I don't think anyone is denying that an affordable upgrade kit for an Ultimaker 2+ to bring it to a similar level as the Ultimaker 2+ Connect wouldn't be appreciated by its users. But I think you might be underestimating the complexities of making such an upgrade, regardless if it is hardware or mostly software. To build it and support the different Ultimaker 2 [...] variations it would generate which all need to be maintained, tested and supported with future (software/firmware) updates. So, while we do understand that it would be appreciated, we can only spe
    1 point
  11. Hi @peterfrosta, Allow me to explain a bit why there is not a simple button on account.ultimaker.com to remove your account. Ultimaker provides many services that require the usage of an account. This community is one of them, but so are Marketplace, Digital Factory, Academy, and so on. Some of these systems were built by Ultimaker, others we buy from 3rd parties (like Community). Because of this, data belonging to your account is distributed between many different databases. For security reasons there is often no way to remove the data for 'any random user' from these
    1 point
  12. Here's a new development snapshot, including the options added by @Cuq and the 1.0.0 release of @FormerLurker's commandline version of ArcWelder.
    1 point
  13. G92 E0G92 E0G1 F1200 E-3.5 I had trouble with that line delaying extrusion for the skirt. There is a prime move later in the code (G1 F1200 E0 just after the ";Skirt" line), but it wasn't enough. This is my fix: With the Search and Replace plugin active, set the Search criteria to "G1 F1200 E-3.5" and set the replace criteria to "G92 E-5". Since there is no longer a retraction, just a reset to -5, when the G1 F1200 E0 line is acted on by the printer, the extruder pushes 5mm of filament to get to E=0. That's a good prime and usually results in a slight blob at the start of
    1 point
  14. Tien, encore des problèmes avec un modeleur surfacique... Va lire l'article sur SketchUp et tu auras peut-être la solution à ton problème.
    1 point
  15. If your printer is not in the list of printers, you can use the custom printer and configure it yourself. Or ask the vendor of the printer if they can provide a printer profile for Cura.
    1 point
  16. Short answer - yes it is the reason.
    1 point
  17. I just tried it and indeed the fan was playing tricks on me. I have tried to disable it and the result has improved considerably I'm going to find another adapter for the fan that does not touch the nozzle THANK YOU SO MUCH!!
    1 point
  18. The idea is to cool the layer that has completed before the next layer is printed on top. If the existing layer is too hot you get bad results (like bad overhangs for example). If it points too much instead at the nozzle then you need to turn the fan on very slowly. There is a feature in cura where you can have the fan come on slowly over the course of 5 layers but sometimes the first increment in fan speed causes a problem. This might all have nothing to do with your issue. Just a theory that fits what we see so far.
    1 point
  19. ok .. I have made some minor modification on the @ahoeben Plug-in for my own tests. I will made some tests regarding you new settings this weekend. I will give you some feedback. I only have an Ender-3; so I don't know if this machine will support the 3D circular interpolation. I don't expect to get real benefits in terms of quality or machine dynamique but I want to test if your new settings will give the possibility to respect the initial small radius shape on this machine. Right now, just on the the theoretical point of view the conversion into 3D arc is correct . Let's see tomo
    1 point
  20. I'm running 4 monitors, this did the trick! I unplugged all but 1 monitor and Cura opened normally. I was then able to access the menus and do as you stated. It seems to be working fine now. Thank you very much!!
    1 point
  21. Thanks for your help, I tried to print it and had the issue. I used netfabb repair service and seem to be good on Cura ! I will try to print it soon. Thanks !
    1 point
  22. FYI - using "normal" (not pt100) thermistors for the bed is more common because the bed doesn't get all that hot so pretty much any cheap thermistor will work and these are easier to deal with from an arduino point of view (arduino can measure the resistance more accurately and hence get a more accurate temperature). There's nothing inherently less accurate about a PT100 but the circuitry to measure the PT100 resistance gets more complicated if you want good accuracy on the temp reading. Regarding that build error - I'd contact Adedee Bulle directly. I think he is this guy: @amed
    1 point
  23. Do you use multiple displays? If so, try disabling all but one of them temporarily. If Cura starts succesfully with a single monitor, go to the General preferences and uncheck the "Restore window position on start". Then you can re-enable the other screens, and Cura should always open on your primary screen.
    1 point
  24. Hello to the Ultimaker community. I've just printed a mobile phone stand, as a small gift to my nephew. It's a very simple object, but it's so satisfying to look at, especially the silky-smooth surfaces and complete lack of blemishes and imperfections. No post-processing was required, apart from pulling out some piece of support material for an overhang region. Ultimaker S5, Prima Select Yellow PLA, Visual Profile / 0.15 mm Layer Height, Default settings everywhere / no adhesion / PLA supports, Printing time was around 8 hours. What a wonderful print
    1 point
  25. Well done gr5. You sorted. The X Y Z were all set at 100mm instead of 200MM. For information:- When i got this printer in September I had a lot of models that wouldn't stick down properly. Got in touch with Labists who said that the temp on the base should be 60' and the extruder should be 240' when i pointed out to them that their manual recommended 50' and 200' they admitted it was printed wrong, but were not going to change till next year. I also got a roll of decorators blue tape. I've not had anything come loose since. Once again thanks for your help.
    1 point
  26. It looks like you have severe underextrusion, something stopping or blocking the flow. There could be a zillion of reasons, blocked nozzle, nozzle too cold, filament too thick or getting stuck, kinks in the filament,... On this forum, try searching for causes of underextrusion. User gr5 has made a good and extensive diagnostics list that he posted several times. That should help you going.
    1 point
  27. In my further research, the "internet" suggests the fans won't run unless they are at least 25%. I have mine set to 8% in Cura and 100% on the material profile and they start and run at 8% perfectly fine... 🤷🏼‍♂️ I mean they are moving very slowly, but they are running.
    1 point
  28. Well, rule N°One on these forums , When @ahoeben say's something it's true. So yes in Cura you can print something from an Image even if it's not the best solution.
    1 point
  29. @Cuq, it looks old because I haven't updated the master branch. Find the most recent artifacts here. You can see which branch they are associated with on the right. Find 'ArcWelder' or 'ArcWelder.exe' in the bin folder of the zip and run with the --help flag for documentation. Let me know how it goes!
    1 point
  30. I'm sorry I can no longer help. I just deciphered your screen name and I'm a Goldwing guy. If I was inclined to help (which I'm most assuredly not), I'd say to check things like "initial layer line width %" or maybe "initial layer flow". Maybe it's something simple like you accidentally deleted the Minus sign. I searched through the settings for "initial" but nothing much came up that would cause elephant's foot. Sometimes when using a brim 1 stripe of plastic will stick to the bottom of the model and make it look like elephant's foot. Check initial layer bed temp a
    1 point
  31. So, I wanted to mention two changes to Arc Welder: 1. Vase Mode (3D arcs) seems to be working well so far. I've printed several, and haven't had any issues However, I'd still love to have a few testers if anyone is interested. Here is a link to the original feature request. 2. I added two new settings that enable Firmware Compensation for printers that do not have all of the goodies in Marlin 2, like MIN_ARC_SEGMENTS. Typically these printers have only one real arc interpolation adjustment: MM_PER_ARC_SEGMENT, which is typically set to 1mm. This is producing the flat edg
    1 point
  32. Es gibt doch schwarzes HIPS z.B. von Formfutura, welches du dann in D-Limonene auflösen kannst. Dann gibt es noch spoolWorks Scaffold, das gibt es auch in dunkel und ist wasserlöslich.
    1 point
  33. Thanks, but in this case the amazing work has been done by FormerLurker.
    1 point
  34. I just re-installed Windows and all my other software to get Cura working again. Pretty disappointing. If it happens again I will give up on Cura.
    1 point
  35. Thank you again! It would be great to be able to get all the files from Thingiverse! Please post back when you've had the opportunity to do that work. Thanks again for making this available to the community!
    1 point
  36. Let me consolidate all related files and upload to Thingiverse, however, apart from those plastic parts (you can print by yourself with ABS), some metal parts also need to be modified and which may not easy for everyone, you can refer to the photos I attached below, I also upload more photos of my mod for reference.
    1 point
  37. Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
    1 point
  38. As always with your work, very impressive! The chrome look is fantastic and nobody thinks it is 3D printed.
    1 point
  39. And today i applied a chrome paintjob, im a bit tired of plating for now. Its a big bigger than my jar so will be a pain. Just chromed it up instead. Mirror finished are very unforgiving and i rushed it a bit and touched it too often whe is was wet needing to keep respraying it. I decided to leave it after the third coat and just accept it as it was.
    1 point
  40. Hi, I've been having this issue for a few days now. I get the "Nozzle offset probe failed. Check the nozzles and bed and try again. When auto-leveling, the bed comes up and pushes core 2 into the print head. No matter how high I manually level the bed, I get the same issue. Here is what I've tried so far. Manually leveled the bed, at numerous different heights (tight springs to loose springs), re-seated the print head wire harness, re-seated the sensor plug, unplugged the fan and tried without it, updated firmware, changed print cores out with brand
    1 point
  41. Well not used ultimakers tough pla for a while. But i like it! It has a very smooth top surface. My toilet handle broke the internal ceramic holder after many years and because all hardware shops are closed....had no choice works like a charm! Made it a bit thicker just in case and forgot to taper it. But as i printed it solid i just sawed the end off. Job done! No acetone or sanding here. Solid as a rock!
    1 point
  42. Is Ultimaker planning to release a scaled down version of the Air Manager for the S3 printer? Or even a smaller material station? I would think you could get 4 spools into the smaller S3 footprint.
    1 point
  43. A note on another cause of electromagnetic interference--if your front fan cable gets pinched it can cause interference that makes your active leveling fail. Unplug the white and black fan cable and try running your active leveling again. If it works fine you need a new front fan.
    1 point
  44. Does the pending version allow turning off perspective to aid visualization of mechanical prints? I run into this limitation constantly. I want to look at straight on elevation views or plan views without the distortion of perspective. This is a standard feature in engineering CAD software.
    1 point
  45. Can we keep the "open file" icon even in preview mode? And can we automatically go back to "prepare" mode if we select "delete all models"/"clear build plate"? (or even just go to "prepare" mode whenever there's nothing at all) Thanks I don't like the extra step of clicking "prepare" before clicking "open file". (yes I know there are hotkeys, I'm also on a tablet half the time, btw touch support would be nice but I'm not going to ask for it yet)
    1 point
  46. 1 point
  47. This the third object I've printed, the spiral vase! Very happy with it, all default settings, no support, UltiM white PLA, 200microns and no infill. 99% scale at 198mm, 6h 50min print time
    1 point
  48. Thanks, I'm attaching few pics. You will find some answers to your question. basically, - I created a internal shell ( few parts that have been glue, screwed). This shell replaces the initial aesthetic cover of the machine. - I have slightly reworked the chassis of the machine, mainly to accommodate the button on the side. - Built up a support (wood) to strongly maintain the whole in place for the molding process - assembled the mold, mainly using MDF wood (straight). The frontal face has been printed to give the rounded shape. Tape has been used to coat the vari
    1 point
  49. I think this is the file you mean: https://www.dropbox.com/s/qeplfe7opojftuy/MiniCalTest.stl?dl=0
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+01:00
×
×
  • Create New...