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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/21/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi guys. I have just updated to version 4.8 and the issue was solved. No idea but it worked. Thanks for all the help and for everyone to reach to me to offer me a slice version for my printer. As well thanks to @GregValiant and @Torgeir for the troubleshooting here. I am amazed by the wonderful community here!
    3 points
  2. The version of Sidebar GUI with an undockable sidebar has been released on the Marketplace for your undocking pleasure.
    2 points
  3. Small two-story office building for model railroad. Pieces were built with both the S5 and the Prusa I3.
    2 points
  4. Paints usually belong in an eco-system: Acrylics with acrylics and solvent based with solvent based. Also, making sure what will bind, will bind well. Also there are brand based ecosystems. Also, usually you can paint acrylics on a good primer base and then solvent based on top of that will usually work. This allow me to paint with an acrylic primer and then paint with any solvent based paint. In this print I used only the paints with the same base properties (as well as a brand based eco-system). These paints are part of the Dupli-Color anodized paint series. They prov
    2 points
  5. Hi unfortunately I don't think this is possible. I can remember that someone asked the same question in the past and there was no solution for it.
    2 points
  6. You meant "curaengine.exe". Actually getting curaengine to slice with a full profile is not trivial, but can be done.
    2 points
  7. Disabling "Remove Empty First Layers" allowed to slice in mid-air.
    2 points
  8. Looking at your sketches the max should be about 63°. This is 60° then 70° on the Ender3P. The 60° looked spot on. The 70° had consistent sagging of .5 to .8mm once it got away from the transition point. My fan works quite well.
    1 point
  9. Thank you, JohnInOttawa I am running a UM3. Happily I have resolved the issue with the levelling as it goes in my reply to Enigma_M4. My colleagues and I are discussing the possibility of upgrading to an UMS3, and keeping this as a backup. But before that happens we must bring this one back to life. Thanks again
    1 point
  10. If the rest of the part was still okay, thus not worn-out and not brittle or crumbling apart, and if it was my machine, I would probably consider modeling only the damaged areas. And then cut these off the original part, drill a couple of holes, and bolt the new 3D-printed parts on, using a M4 or M5 bolts and nuts. That is, if there would be enough room for that in the machine and in the part, of course. But this won't work if the original is crumbling and too brittle (it looks a bit like that?). It seems to be an ABS-blend, as I noticed the words ABS on the side.
    1 point
  11. The successor for the plugin mentioned in this thread is the Sidebar GUI plugin. Though it does not make the sidebar any less wide, it does a lot to improve the fact that the viewport is being obscured by a giant floating panel.
    1 point
  12. I see that CURA for Linux is now only available by downloading an "appimage" file. I know that this is very convenient for you guys as software developers - but your decision has some drastic implications. AppImage is designed to be only ONE way to get Linux packages - typically something someone uses when they just want to try something out without actually installing it. For long term use, it's a disaster. Linux systems use "package managers" - I'm using Ubuntu and the "apt" system...but the "deb" system is OK too. The problem is that Linux users have
    1 point
  13. Yes, gr5 pegged it! One of the people on 'another network' suggested I put a model DeLorean on a street to the left of the building, but I'm not that much of a BTTF geek. 😉 I do have another BTTF reference on the theater in a row of facades on the table edge.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. Not in the marketplace and not a script. I wrote my own Application for controlling the printer from a PC. It's "Windows only" as VB doesn't port to anything else. HERE is the download link if you want to give it a shot. There are instructions and a readme. At the lower right on the Recovery Page is the command for fiddling with Z hops. You can alter one section of layers at a time. The app is unsigned (that costs money) so you may have to talk your anti-virus into allowing the setup file to run. If you do install it, let me know how it goes.
    1 point
  16. Hi @curasurf try changing the support X/Y distance. Here my support X/Y distance are 0.2 mm instead of 0.8 mm. And the minimum support X/Y distance is 0.1mm I also changed the support angle to 30 degrees. CCR10SPRO_ttt.3mf Please let me know if this works for you!
    1 point
  17. If combing is enabled there only 2 z-hops for this cylinder. One at the start and 1 at the end of the skirt. In this 3mf I disabled combing. When you slice it there should be Z-hops of 10mm (easier to find in the gcode). Whether moving up or moving down, the Z-hops occur on their own line Ex.: "G1 F2400 Z12.4". cylinder.3mf
    1 point
  18. There's no mystery. They pop out of the slider blocks. There are I believe newer slider blocks although this is irrelevant. If your printer is still under warranty you should be able to get a set of blocks and belts plus instructrions for free. Even if outside warranty - possibly it's free. Contact your reseller. And they aren't that expensive either way. Check for cracks on the blocks. Even if no cracks they are popping out too easily. There are temporary fixes like this one: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/cracked-slide-block-cap
    1 point
  19. SOLVED: There is a bug.... In my first post I wrote a list of what I did to try and solves this. It seems they have fixed something in an update half way through my solving because the end result the bug is: With my Gcode, plus Flow Sensor unplugged and Flow Sensor disabled this errors shows. Also, with this exact Gcode on a different S5 with Flow Sensor disabled and unplugged it shows the same error. We have yet to identify what is wrong with my Gcode. With the Distributor's Gcode everything works fine and they were only able to get my Gcodes working if Flow sensor was plugged in
    1 point
  20. Our material engineers do seem to think so 🙂
    1 point
  21. I tend to just use the preview and look at the "speeds" color scheme. Since the outer walls are normally at the same speed, you should be in a single color. Areas where this is not the case are due to the min layer time kicked in.
    1 point
  22. FACEPALM Nevermind. I figured out the issue. I had a reference block set to hidden that I absolutely forgot was there, and was exporting the entire scene from blender instead of the selected model. Ignore this post. I resolved it myself.
    1 point
  23. Hi @curasurf could you share your project file (file - save project) so I can take a closer look.
    1 point
  24. Might it not be the "Max Comb Distance With No Retract"? *edit* Lol, our posts crossed.
    1 point
  25. Yes, irregular temperature could be a factor: I once measured it, and at the edges it could be quite a bit lower. Maybe due to the rising hot air pulling cold air in from below. Also, under the nozzle-fans the bed can be much cooler, especially on small objects where that fan is continuously blowing on a small spot. Also check the bottom surface of your prints: is it squeezed equally flat in all areas? Maybe if one corner is too far off, the filament is not squeezed well, and that could cause it to bond less. See the pic how my prints typically look. Grease or oil also
    1 point
  26. Hallo, zum Thema "Kreisbahn" gab es bei Youtube demletzt mal ein interessantes Video zu einem Cura-Addon. Einfach mal bei Youtube nach "Arc Welder. Braucht man das?" vom User "sehertest" suchen. Grüße, Gebbi
    1 point
  27. My bad, I had missed that printer-info. Yes, trying a higher bed temp might also be a good idea: mine is around 80-90°C for PET (I don't know by head, but I definitely increased it from the original 70°C). The bed temp has te be close to the glass transition temperature, where the material starts to become soft. If lower, bonding reduces. If higher, the part may become too soft and sag, warp or peel off. What you could also try if you suspect time reduces bonding: *immediately* after a small test print completes, manually heat the bed to the same temperature as during t
    1 point
  28. My brand of PET does not like traveling through the air, not for bridging, and not for crossing gaps to the next part. There are two problems: 1) It does not pull a nice long string for bridging, contrary to PLA: PET tends to snap and scroll back onto its own, like a rubber band that snaps. This causes a blob hanging on the nozzle, instead of a bridge. 2) When liquid, PET is more rubbery than PLA. So, when crossing gaps, the pressure does not release as fast in the nozzle, causing the nozzle to leak a bit more while traveling over gaps. In both cases, the bl
    1 point
  29. Thanks you a lot gr5, i set horizontal expansion to 0.2 and it fixe everything, thanks.
    1 point
  30. Yes, it was released 2 days after the release of 6.1.0
    1 point
  31. Yes I'm familiar with the "dragging across lower line and snapping". I've seen it many times. Cura tends to make infill at like 2X printing speed so I'd try even slower - 20% - just to see what happens. Also you want the fan as low as possible but still turning. Check your infill line width! I didn't think of that - but cura can do some really stupid things like setting that to a different value than the rest of the print. Make sure it is the same as your normal line width. Or wider. It could just be a bad brand of filament? Different types of p
    1 point
  32. Ich hab dir im englischen Thread auch schon geantwortet. Soweit ich weiß gibt es hier keine Möglichkeit das zu steuern oder zu beeinflussen.
    1 point
  33. Temp Fix... Piggybacking off the plugin suggestions, without installing another plugin, when you encounter the unselectable model error, you can go into "Ultimaker > About Ultimaker Cura" in the menu on the mac, which opens a popup. Close it and now your model is selectable and you lose none of your edits, supports, etc. Hope that helps. I've lost so much work in the past. Working on a model for half an hour adding supports, and then having to restart. No bueno. Hope this helps you guys! Take care.
    1 point
  34. @ahoeben I was wrong. Manually installing the Arc Welder plugin in Cura did not correctly generate the necessary gcode. It simply ignores the arc welder option when slicing and the file generated is exactly the same as one w/o the arc welder option. Reinstalling the 3.5.1 arc welder plugin from the Marketplace DOES generate the necessary gcode, but it still has the same issues of simply extruding lots of material in a puddle, and then just ramdomly roaming around the print bed.
    1 point
  35. When I export an STL file the only requirement is that it is in the positive octant. Exactly where in the octant doesn't matter. I don't know whether or not there is any location information in the file. Mostly I don't pay attention to where the part is in space so long as it is legal for the STL translator. If I need to make an assembly in Cura then Cura has to be fooled. I create a model build plate 1mm thick and larger than the assembly (up to 230 x 230 for my Ender 3 pro) in the CAD software so that my assembled parts are on the top surface and within the periphery of the p
    1 point
  36. It really just looks like you are over-extruding a bit. Perhaps try live-adjusting your flow rate down a bit?
    1 point
  37. You don't need to get anything from git. Install cura and as part of that installation there is an executable called the "engine" - I think it's "curaengine.exe" - something like that. That's the actual slicer part. Cura is the gui combined with curaengine. Anyway you can pass parameters to curaengine on the command line so you can call it from python or any other scripting language. This is documented on various parts of this forum. Just google within the forum for the engine like this: site:ultimaker.com curaengine Note that this is usually called the "command
    1 point
  38. You have the IP address as 8.8.8.8. That can't be right. That's the address of one of google's dns servers - I happen to know that. You need to use the actual address or possibly you can use "127.0.0.1" for the "current computer". You say you have a "pc" so I assume that's windows so open a command window and type "ipconfig". Somewhere in that mess is your address - typically something like 192.168.x.x or 10.x.x.x Don't confuse your computer address with your router (which usually ends in "1" such as 192.168.0.1. Don't confuse it with your mask which usu
    1 point
  39. If you share something on Google-drive, make sure it is public... Now I need to ask permission... Maybe there is a "replacement pattern" for the info you want but it is not in the list... Contact the developer of the HTML-plugin, maybe he can tell you what "replacement pattern" to put in you end-Gcode to get the info in the Gcode-file...
    1 point
  40. Hallo nein, das ist derzeit nicht oder noch nicht möglich. Dem UM2+C fehlen noch ein Funktionen im Vergleich zum normalen UM2+. Ich nehme einmal an, dass mit kommenden FW Versionen hier nachgebessert werden wird.
    1 point
  41. If you have Special Modes | Print Sequence | "One at a time" enabled then it's the area your print head takes up. You can't put another part in the gray or the print head will hit it when it lowers to print the next part. That's actually true for people who bother to keep the Print Head size and Gantry Height up to date in the settings. Disallowed areas for brim/skirt are around the periphery and if you have them shut off then the gray doesn't show. With that piece you're printing another model would have to be the shape of a piece of linguini. (I was going to say spaghetti but
    1 point
  42. another user that created an account just to acknowledge that this fixed the issue for me.
    1 point
  43. This took 23.5 days to print the base and another 2 days to print the female figure. For the second time.....The first time the fingers did not print well. This whole print used almost 2KG of material, so it feels like it has some heft. The design came about when I found a few Ziegfeld Follies girls. It became this; pseudo-art deco influenced fractals and practical modeling. Other view directions of the full piece. I used a variety of paints on this whole thing. I also tried out a couple of Stuart Semple's products. The hair w
    1 point
  44. I have a nice system for these situations. It is powered by two of the printer stepper motors so they must function. It requires a table the same height as the window sill, and two pulleys (one to open the window and the other to drag the printer over the sill). The system was designed with PencilCAD so no translation software is necessary (though you will appreciate that Email won't work). There is one constraint regarding printer defenestration: A first floor window above a flower garden doesn't work well. A 10th floor window above a concrete parking lot is very satisfying (
    1 point
  45. The "Check for account updates" button synchronizes Marketplace plugins and materials that were either added to Cura while signed-in, or those added via marketplace.ultimaker.com. However, you can achieve the desired effect of synchronizing all Cura settings (including custom profiles) by using the "Cura Backups" plugin, available in the "extensions" menu. Simply create a backup on one machine, and then restore it on another. This will copy over all the settings.
    1 point
  46. We are two trainees in the Planetary and Robotics Laboratory at the European Space Agency and we built ExoMy, an educational mars rover: It is completely 3D printed on an Ultimaker 3 and an Ultimaker 2, which took us around two weeks of print time. We set up a website and a Github Wiki to guide through the whole build process. So we hope to see some ExoMy clones soon :)
    1 point
  47. A few days ago I figured it out, so it may help you too! When I created a pause in cura, it worked except when the print head returned to the model it left a blob again. I fixed the issue by opening the gcode in a text editor and deleting a line in the code as you can see in the picture, it’s highlighted in blue. This didn’t change anything except the blob of plastic was never extruded, and my print came out perfect! This might also work with the change filament script, but I haven’t tried it yet.
    1 point
  48. If you meant "compatible material diameter", this didn't have any effect. But I solved this by adding command M92 to the start of my gcode. (Reseting printer will return extrusion setting back to normal.) Info for other zmorph VX paste extruder users through Cura: Right now I'm using code M92 E11 in the start of gcode with a flow setting of 45%. This is with original 100ml syringe and 2mm nozzle. Thank you for answers!
    1 point
  49. Yep, that's what I've started to do. So far I've been able to set the display, configure the bed heater and the dual extruders with the heater for each. But the axis seems inverted. I have trouble fixing that correctly for now. Also, I'm supposed to work right now, so, I only test when Android Studio is Building 😅
    1 point
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