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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2021 in Posts

  1. Nice! Do you have an undercarriage with electronics and motor already? Anyway, here's a print from my side. It's actually one print. Wooden parts: 0.8mm PLA with Natural Wood "Metal" parts: .25 nozzle, Tough PLA. All the parts were printed on one S5 plate with dual extrusion. So you basically print a DIY model kit. It's 12cm long like this. 🙂
    4 points
  2. Thanks, but the amazing part of the work is done by @FormerLurker; my plugin is just the glue between Cura and his ArcWelder application.
    3 points
  3. At first, I thought: are you really going to slide downhill in a 3D-printed sled? What if it breaks? But then I saw the dimensions: 12cm. :-) The first photo, it laying upside down, looks really convincing.
    2 points
  4. Very cool, the Natural Wood looks amazing.
    2 points
  5. I have created a new development snapshot which includes an OS X executable of the ArcWelder console application that I manually built on an OS X 10.12 virtual machine and which seems to work there.
    2 points
  6. I believe I found a use for "Mesh Fixes | Remove all Holes". The back legs aren't on the build surface and require support. I randomly set it to 10% scale because it came in sized for a Jolly Green Giant. Sinking it into the build plate 2mm worked to flatten the bottom. I'd use a brim because the contact patches of the rear legs is pretty small for the lean angle they end up at before they merge into the rest.
    2 points
  7. Try re-formatting the SD card and blow out the card slot in the printer. Have you ever used Cura to send a print over the USB? If you have, and you know the computer and printer can communicate, then you can hook it up to the computer, start Cura, load a gcode file (or slice something) and go to the Monitor screen. Try sending G28 from Cura and see if it the printer homes. If that stuff doesn't work you can try sending M502. That will do a full reset back to factory defaults. You will lose your Home Offsets and Steps/mm calibration stuff. You should be able to get those from the pri
    2 points
  8. I have to work in compatibility mode as this old laptop doesn't support OpenGL 4.1. When I open the 3mf file, Support is not enabled. Enabling support, and leaving the part with the legs down, I don't get that center post. There is nothing above in that orientation and it isn't required. I looked at emare's image and rotated the part 180 (a lot less wasted material that way). With the legs in the air, that inside support is required for the roof of the counterbore. Here it is as the 3mf file shows. You can see to the bottom of the front hole and no support was generated. Given
    1 point
  9. I get the same issue on Cura 4.8. Furtermore there is support on the side of the leg that is not really needed. Hope this helps the developers to fix it.
    1 point
  10. @emare I hope your evening is better than your day was.
    1 point
  11. Hi Maurosacchi. Personally, I would be looking at PP with glass/carbon fiber. Extremely strong and PP works well with liquids. Make sure when you print that the z seam alignment is at random. And I would also print it with 100% infill. Final version anyway. If you do want to go for PP, make sure you use the adhesionsheet and/or pp-adhesion from Magigoo. Those are the only adhesion solutions which worked for me when I used PP with GF (30%): XSTRAND™ GF30-PP (Polypropylene + Glass Fiber) (crea3d.com) Sounds like a very interesting project, SandervG forwarded this thread t
    1 point
  12. Ok pas grave je vais voir merci pour vos conseils @darkdvd et @lekid 😁 !
    1 point
  13. These are just some random thoughts... The typical printing materials are fond of water. I'm guessing that would be a downside so if you can get something with a low affinity for water, that would be a prime consideration. It may be why Delrin was picked over something like Nylon. A prototype for initial pressure testing could be made from something cheaper(?) Among other things, "Layer Adhesion" will play a part in water-tightness. Maybe a coating over the print? I would make the bottom of the vessel a dome. The print will be weaker than any traditiona
    1 point
  14. HI @tinkergnome - Thank you for clarifying 🙂 I have been thinking about changing the Firmware, but as I am still quite new to this, I suppose it is better to stick with the UM firmware. Hoping to upgrade to the 3S soon, I can really use the dual extrusion function with the type of parts I print. Especially soluble support. Just a bit out of my price range at the moment mainly due to the very weak performance of our currency vs US$. Enjoy the rest of your day! Friedl.
    1 point
  15. Good questions! Hopefully you'll find some help here. I'll also share this with our product experts if they have any input.
    1 point
  16. Hi @KaraokeAmerica, I've been a little busy lately.. About the size in Mb for the stl file to be printed by Cura, hmm I'll think I've never seen any max value set, but if you have a PC with the right performance it can be high.. However, I would say that 500 Mb is huge for normal 3D printing.. I've seen your model, but there was no slicing data or printer type in your file, just the object. When you upload a project file, you will see that your default printer change to another printer. I have an UM 2 and S3. Normally, a laptop with an i7 /
    1 point
  17. By the way, when I have critical dimensions - I usually print slightly small and then drill it out with the correct size drill. This may seem crazy but it's very easy and quick to do. The part guides the drill perfectly and you get perfect precision every time. Usually people complain about vertical holes (not horizontal). they tend to print 0.4mm too small due to liquid-rubber-band effect. I always make my holes about 0.4mm larger than desired and I *still* often drill out the most important ones.
    1 point
  18. The Ender 3 Pro has disallowed areas for the clips. They make the available area smaller in Cura but don't really help as far as the printer goes. The firmware only understands uppercase letters. Any lowercase command will be ignored. The Auto-Home position will likely be off the build surface. It's just a function of where the end stop switches are located. Auto-Home the print head. Use the LCD to move the nozzle 5mm in from the left edge of the build surface and 5mm in from the front of the build surface. With the Z at 0 select "Set Home Offsets" on the LCD.
    1 point
  19. I think this statement is a bit too generic. I use Windows 10, an ASUS motherboard and a Ryzen processor as well, graphics card is from NVIDIA.... And Cura runs just fine.
    1 point
  20. If you post the Gcode file and a 3mf file (with a model loaded use File | Save Project), somebody can look at it.
    1 point
  21. In 99% of all adhesion cases, the bed/nozzle leveling is not correct. I guess you nozzle is a bit too far away from the bed and the first layer is not squished into the bed. Try to level closer to the bed and print again. I assume you use PLA, right?
    1 point
  22. Changing the SD card and blowing out the printer worked. Thank you
    1 point
  23. Search Settings: Fuzzy Edit: You're right.
    1 point
  24. A little food for thought... The first line of the vase mode file is an extrusion. It went from a previous point that is no longer in the gcode, to X30.642 Y0.099 E640.51694. In your patched code you are defining the start of that first extrusion as X24.189 Y2.189. Is it close to where it was in the first file? Is it on the correct extrusion path for the vase mode file? You know it wasn't calculated to be on that path. In this case since it is such a short distance it probably doesn't matter. There are certainly cases where it does matter. If retractions are involved then ther
    1 point
  25. Hey folks. I've got an Axiom dual, and used to have this problem, this thread is still the top search result so I figured I'd pitch in to help others out. I'm running decently well on this printer now. Airwolf listed a start and end code set for alternate slicers, but it's still got a couple problems. Most critical are that the temps used for auto-leveling are fixed values at 240, and Cura adds extruder temps before the Start Code. So the start code needs to be modified with material temp variables per extruder, and I prefer them to cool to the standby temp, not to 0 after auto-lev
    1 point
  26. Its great to sea that you respond to each other that's the benefit of a community. ass Gzz mentioned its based on the latest version but you can use it on any version. it is smart to backup your setting online true the backup function of cura. if an upgrade to a newer version goes wrong you can restore the backup. and restore your printers and profiles
    1 point
  27. I use Cura Ultimaker 4.8 (newest version) and the profile works fine and the printer is found under creality printers.
    1 point
  28. I think it is not necessary to duplicate the model. Simply select a different extruder for the cutting mesh (in addition to any other setting of you like) and you're done. Like in the following instructions: https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360013370140-How-to-adjust-print-settings-of-a-part-of-my-model-in-Ultimaker-Cura
    1 point
  29. I don't know your printer, but it looks like it still needs calibrating steps, and maybe correcting slack and tolerances. You may need to find manuals and tutorials on that for your printer, or ask the manufacturer. After that, for finding the best settings for general printing: just stay with the printer and watch it closely, while printing small test models. Do lots of test models, one by one. Change speed on the fly, and see how that affects the print quality. Change temperature on the fly, and see what happens. Change cooling on the fly, change flow-rate, etc... Print the same
    1 point
  30. Hi @JerichoGuitars, thank you for your post! It sounds very interesting, but unfortunately it looks like the images you tried to attach are not visible, but a broken link. Could you perhaps have a look at this, and if possible add the images again? Thanks!
    1 point
  31. Hi John, Sound like there is still some left in there. You could work around the cleaning wizards and play with the temperatures yourself. If you use white or transparent filament to clean, you can observe well if there is still something filament left. Are you sure you have cleaned it all the way? Good luck!
    1 point
  32. The official way to uninstall a plugin is via the "Installed" tab of the Marketplace window. Manually removing files from the configuration folder could have adverse effects (like Cura still informing you of updated versions of the plugin that you removed)
    1 point
  33. And the results of me, a pot of cofee, and a enderv2, refurbed after 3 weeks of use, or maybe that first unorthidoxed tip change.....who knows? Lololol..
    1 point
  34. You have a few features to enable/disable here to improve the view. First of all you should zoom in (scroll wheel) and pan (hold down shift key, right click drag). across the top of the screen look for "color scheme". First try "filament". I think that's what you have it set on in the lower photo. You can change the filament color by loading different colors in the PREPARE screen and reslicing. Then in "color scheme" try "line type". I know you don't like that but it's very useful. Yes the outer layer is red and very dark. You can scroll through all the layers -
    1 point
  35. Hi @amrahabibovic, I struggled a lot on this and maybe together we can find something out 😉 Thanks @utopiah to ping me on this. Here are some questions for you, and if I understand your problem I can provide a guideline to help you on this: 1) Do you want to slice a part with the parameters you have in Cura (the GUI), but you would like to do it with a command line? 2) Do you want to slice only one part at a time? 3) Would you like to orientate them in order to have a part well orientate and reduce the printing time? If the answer to those 3 que
    1 point
  36. Holes create a special problem. The nozzle drags the plastic in a circle and the plastic wants to cut corners so it pulls towards the center making an ID smaller You don't notice it as much on an OD because usually there is an inner wall to act as a dam to keep the plastic outboard. How much it pulls to the middle is affected by a lot of things. The phenomenon is known as the Gr5 Snot Factor after it's discoverer who had a runny nose at the time. The Shell | Hole Horizontal Expansion setting can be used to enlarge a hole. Not all holes are round, it acts on any vertical holes
    1 point
  37. I did a little experimentation and figured out why it suddenly started working for me. The answer is: it didn't. The selection and use of the hoops works just fine when I first open the app up. However, once I click on the Monitor tab and then back to the Prepare tab, that's when it stops working. As I workaround (at least for me) you only need to close and re-open the app making sure not to click on Monitor tab until you no longer need to interact with the translation tools.
    1 point
  38. Hallo, Also wenn das Glas noch ganz war kann ja am Heizbett nichts verbogen werden. Wellen wo schlagen kann man auch in eingebauten zustand prüfen, optisch oder evtl. mit einer Messuhr! Optisch würde ich einfach Druckkopf in der Mitte stellen und dann den Druckkopf von vorne nach hinten bewegen und auf den Sliding Block schauen, normal sollte man das erkennen wenn dieser hoch und runter geht. Ich meine sogar das ich darüber schon mal ein Video gesehen/gedreht hatte, aber weder ich noch online finde ich aktuell welche. Somit erkennt man aber nur wenn die W
    1 point
  39. Dieser Verzug war mit Sicherheit nicht im Auslieferungszustand...! Und wenn das Gehäuse so verspannt ist, muß das Irgendwo auch in den "Drehstangen" sich abzeichnen. Schließlich werden die im Gehäuse gelagert. Die Frage ist nur, ob Sie sich zueinander nur mit dem Wandern der Gehäuseteile "Verschoben" haben, oder aber einen "Schlag bekommen haben und dadurch das Gehäuse so verschoben ist. Es ist Zwar Stahl und Massiv, aber eben Rundmaterial. Entsprechend kann es in eine Richtung ausglengt und dauerhaft gebogen werden. Da ist dann ein richten aussichtslos. Schon ein "Schlag von einem Zehntel mer
    1 point
  40. Ich hab zwar keinen 3er, aber bei meinem UM2+ hab ich ein ähnliches Problem, das bisher keine Lösung gefunden hat. Bei mir stellt sich der Offset jedesmal anders bei nem Druckstart. Aber auch hier hab ich ein nicht ganz ebenes Heizbett, aber das ist normal und wird durch den Einsatz der Glasplatte wieder gerade. Filamentrollen können das nicht verursachen, da müsste schon mehr Druck draufkommen. Wie siehts mit dem Gehäuse aus, sind da eventuell paar Schrauben locker? Wäre möglich, dass beim Transport vielleicht was verbogen / locker wurde.
    1 point
  41. Starting about noon on Christmas day, there will be a huge influx of people (mostly young people) who will be getting into 3D printing with absolutely no idea of what is involved. The same questions will be asked numerous times and will require the same answers over and over. A sticky thread of how to get started might be a good idea. This would be more for the non-Ultimaker crowd that is looking to Cura as their slicer. They will be knocking on the door here. The Cura Reddit crew is going to have their hands full. So my suggestion for right now is to start on 3d Printing 101
    1 point
  42. For a better Gap filling solution don't need to wait 3 months , use the @burtoogle Master Cura Release (aka smartavionics on Github) https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura
    1 point
  43. I recently got an Ender 5+ and encountered this problem as well when i started using Cura. Below is the solution I came up with. It's not perfect but it does the job: Original GCode snippet to replace: G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 ;Move to side a little Replacement GCode snippet: ; note: - replace the Y value to something that matches your printer dimensions ; - i used Y300 because my printer has a max Y of 350
    1 point
  44. @inworks I'm not sure about the future roadmap for UM3, but I'm sure we'll release an update for it somewhere in 2021 that will include the later additions to the communication protocol between printer and cloud (unlocking features like webcam screenshots).
    1 point
  45. @neotko just ist watched your video on cabling the Duet3D board in the UM2. What firmware are you using? Marlin ported or another one? You then use the Duet display with, not the UM2 built in anymore? Cura works with it? What do you have to configure? As my UM2 board on my 2nd printer is broken (see other post) I am thinking about how large the Duet3D mod is in comparison to repairing the UM2 board... ;-)
    1 point
  46. Yeah, that's pretty much what happened to me. I don't know how you defined your printer, if you were using one of the ones built into Cura or if it was totally custom. My issue happened because I modified the files for one of the ones included with Cura and that caused an issue on the upgrade. If you are doing your own machine definition files, I strongly recommend you make your own name, unrelated to any that come with Cura, and keep a copy of the definition files outside of Cura in case you need to manually restore them after an update. I appreciate that this software was meant to work w
    1 point
  47. Just to keep it clear for anyone who reads this later, it wasn't an issue with a profile. Those are easy enough to deal with by exporting and importing. This had to do with a custom machine definition, which cannot be exported or saved, and recreating it involves creating/editing JSON files in the program directory. Not trying to dig at you at all - I appreciate the help - it's just that this is a different issue and I don't want anyone to get confused about it. Thanks!
    1 point
  48. I put all my Cura config stuff in a git repo so that from time to time I can make a snapshot to go back to when the latest Cura decides to trash something (I work on the bleeding edge). Of course, once the files are in a repo, it's easy to share the repo between computers.
    1 point
  49. I created a simple script for the "Post Processing" plugin called "OuterWallFan". I wanted to share this script and my experiences using it. I print end-use parts that must be as strong as possible, but also look nice with no visual defects. I discovered that I can create strong prints by not using the cooling fan, but this usually resulted in ugly parts. On the other hand, I can use the cooling fan to make the parts look great, but they were brittle and weak. (You are probably already aware of this 🙂.) I created the “OuterWallFan” script to balance part strength and ae
    1 point
  50. Without actually going through all of the steps you have outlined, I can tell you for sure that the setting for STL, 3MF and AMF export out of SWX 2018 all carry over. The differences are only with regard to "Include Appearances" and "Include Colors" in the 3MF and AMF check boxes. STL does not have those options. As you can see the dialog box Title Bar is "System Options - STL/3MF/AMF". No matter which file format one chooses the settings are always the same. Does that help?
    1 point
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