Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/09/2021 in Posts

  1. It does not work because the model has no wall thickness at all. It's a non-manifold geometry and therefor cannot exist in the so-called "real world". 🙂 I don't know the software you use, but you should read about how to create manifold geometry for 3D-printing. For example: https://www.sculpteo.com/en/3d-learning-hub/create-3d-file/fix-non-manifold-geometry/
    3 points
  2. Yes, I am that old. And no, I do not kiss and tell 😛
    2 points
  3. Hallo, Du arbeitest mit Cura 4.9 (das steht so in deiner Projektdatei) Die hat einen Bug. - macht keinen korrekten Rückzug auf auf dem zweiten Core. - und den -Purge-Blob- macht er auch nicht. Wenn du auf Cura Version 4.8 zurückstellst sollte es wieder gehen. Zur Cura 4.9.1 Version habe ich diesbezüglich kein Feedback gefunden. Kann aber sein das diese Version schon den Bugfix hat. Viele Grüße
    2 points
  4. "The thing to remember is that there is no spoon" - from The Matrix Philosophy in the morning... The real problem with Hole Horizontal Expansion isn't diameters or bores because there are never any diameters or bores. What we have are certain features that are comprised of a series of short line segments that our human brains see as diameters or bores. The problem is how to get a piece of software to recognize that a particular collection of short line segments constitutes a bore as opposed to some other shape. The problem rests squarely in the laps of a bunch of dead Greeks.
    2 points
  5. Found the problem. This appears to be caused by the experimental "Enable Coasting" option, that appears to have been enabled in the default profile. It's a weird way to display this. Can't see a way to delete this post.
    2 points
  6. "At least according to the marlin config file from creality". Over the course of the last year or so, Creality ran out of various parts and made substitutions. Among the parts that they substituted were mainboards. They grabbed what boards they had available, did quicky patches to the firmware, installed the boards and sold the machines. There were issues and one of them was that G2 / G3 was not enabled. Another issue was the M0/M1/M117 glitch that killed the ability to use the "Pause at Height" plugin. Yes, it's a 32 bit mainboard but memory is memory and I've seen no mention of
    2 points
  7. We missed the dual extrusion issue. It's something that we should have caught but didn't. Since a lot of people have also reported this on github (thanks for that!), we already have fix for this and have changed the tests that we run per release so that this shouldn't happen anymore. We do print a dual extrusion model every release, but the model that we used didn't exhibit the problem (Which was unfortunately one of the few models that didn't have the issue...). As people might have noticed, we also didn't get any reports about this during the beta (which is unfortunate, but the primary respo
    2 points
  8. Hallo -Wrong- . Das Problem. Kalt level. Warm drucken. Die Platte verformt sich wenn sie warm ist. -Solution- Die Lösung. Kalt level. Un während der Drucker um das Bauteil hirscht, nachregeln. -Best Case.- Bzw. wem das zu einfach ist. Warm Leveln und warm Drucken. Das UM3 Bett ist ist ein Aluminium-Gusteil mit einer stabilen Struktur zur Verstrebung. UM2+ hat eine 5mm(?) Aluminiumplatte die nicht strukturell verstärkt ist. Kannst dir aber auch einen S3 kaufen. Der Levelt dann selbst im -Best Case-. Viele Grüße
    1 point
  9. Your machine looks like it's pausing for a couple of seconds. The only thing I can figure is that the retraction is really slow. You can't check your "max speed" with Cura, but you can alter it. Bring a 25mm calibration cube into Cura. Make the "Z" = -24 so it sinks into the build plate leaving only 1mm exposed. Set the retraction and prime speeds to 30mm/sec. Slice the model and create a gcode file. Open that gcode file in a text editor. Add these 3 lines just below ";Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 4.9.1" M203 X900.00 Y900.00 Z50.00 E50.00 ;Set ma
    1 point
  10. We prefer not to delete postings like this as they can help other people with similar questions. In fact your post is particularly informative.
    1 point
  11. Hello, I'm trying to set up a new printer in cura. The Biqu BX. There is no inbuild profile for the printer so chose the Biqu B1 and then edited all machine settings for my printer. It works, but Cura has a weird display problem. The prints seem to come out correct, but it's almost impossible to catch problems like holes in the model before printing. The preview print shows pretty big holes at the Z-Seam. Here are some example pictures: First two show the problem on a XYZ cube, then on a real object, which shows these massive holes. The next
    1 point
  12. Remember that layer numbers in a gcode file start with "0" and the layers in Cura Preview start with "1". When you look at the Cura preview and decide what layer you want to to be the first layer after the pause, subtract "1" and put that number into the Pause at Height dialog box. EX: So I look at the preview and decide that layer 13 will be the first layer of my new color. I enter "12" into the dialog. As the print runs and finishes gcode layer:11 it will pause and so gcode layer:12 will be the first layer with the new color (or with the nut in place or whatever you wante
    1 point
  13. Thank you, I uninstalled Cura and then restarted the computer for the 4th time. I reinstalled the software and now I am able to use it. I did not lose my profiles and it seems to work. Some of the settings that I had set up for a print had been changed.
    1 point
  14. The author configured the firmware that way. There is no Gcode command for hot end fan speed. This is from the configuration.adv.h you linked. * Extruder cooling fans * * Extruder auto fans automatically turn on when their extruders' * temperatures go above EXTRUDER_AUTO_FAN_TEMPERATURE. * * Your board's pins file specifies the recommended pins. Override those here * or set to -1 to disable completely. *
    1 point
  15. If the material is PVA, you may want to try drying the spool on the heated build plate or a food dehydrator first before loading it onto the S3. I ran into the same problem with a brand new spool of PVA. All I can tell you is that PVA is a very difficult material to deal with. Good luck! https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360012057799
    1 point
  16. One is your canoe and one is mine. Can you tell which is which? Attached is the repaired model. I like Service.netfabb.com for model repair. They can even float boats and it's free. Canoo_fixed.stl
    1 point
  17. You have 2 issues. The first issue is that the walls are too thin for your "line width". Line width should be the same as nozzle size within a range of 75% to 150% so if your nozzle is 0.4mm you can go down to 0.3mm line width without losing much quality. Also you can check the option "print thin lines" that will let you print even thinner walls. You can experiment with setting nozzle width smaller and smaller until it prints those letters but if you go much below 0.3mm quality will suffer. Alternatively you can set "horiztonal expansion" to say 1mm and those walls should print
    1 point
  18. Du hast den BB Printcore verbaut. der ist nur für PVA
    1 point
  19. Try by activating "print thin walls" under Shell... if that doesn't work, share the STL-file so we can take a look at it...
    1 point
  20. Hallo, würde behaupten. Der Hintere hat 5V. Die Seitlichen haben 12V. Bzw. 2x Ultimaker Model Cooling Fan 12VDC 0.1 A UM2 1x Ultimaker Hot-end Cooling Fan 5VDC 0.008A UM2 Viele Grüße
    1 point
  21. Alle drei ist komisch. Wenn die Beiden seitlichen funktionieren kann es sein dass die Einstellungen dafür zu weit unten sind. Bei zu wenig Strom gehen die dann an und aus. Möglich ist auch das die Lüfter selbst Ihre Kabel zerlegt haben, also die Kabel sich am Lüfter abgerieben haben.
    1 point
  22. My S5 started to make some unpleasant noises when the print bed moved up and down. The issue was in my case that the white plastic cover at the back of the print bed carriage has deformed over time. One of the through holes in the plastic cover moved and was now touching the z-axis rod. This could also happen to your S5 printer over time. I will try to explain what I did to solve the issue. I also took some pictures from the parts inside with some comments. Before the repair: https://www.dropbox.com/s/nt96xhdoyvbb1ex/Before_repair.mp4?dl=0 After the repair:
    1 point
  23. Da ich es selbst nicht geschafft habe die ufp Datei neu zu packen, nach manueller Änderung, habe ich ein Nachbearbeitungs Skripts/Plugin geschrieben der in den gcode direkt diese Zeilen: ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.0.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:200 ;EXTRUDER_TRAIN.1.INITIAL_TEMPERATURE:100 ändert und eine frei Wählbare Temp einträgt. Falls diese Zeilen Einfluss auf der Nivellierung Temp hat sollte man ja dann einen unterschied sehen Das Skript gehört in folgenden Ordner kopiert: C:\Program Files\AKTUELLE CURA VERSION\plugins\PostProcessingPlugin\scripts
    1 point
  24. There is no feature to turn the skin before the walls. The skin layers are printed best after the walls. I would say that you might have some adhesion issues here. I have to option in mind here: try some settings to make the adhesion for the first layer easier. Try a higher first line height (like 0.25mm) and an increased first layer with (like 120%). Print the first layer slow (20 or even 15mm/s). I kinda guess from experience that your nozzle is carrying the first printed hole line away? Second idea: remove the bottom layers (by setting them to 0) and check infill before the
    1 point
  25. If you see this tangling beginning while it is still printing, a temporary solution is sometimes to manually unwind and loosen up some filament, very carefully, without interrupting the printing. Then roll it up again and make sure it is still free, so you can continue printing for a few more hours. Repeat untill your print is completed, and then you can really handle it as described above. I have had to do that too, I think we all have...
    1 point
  26. Maybe those people used Cura 4.9.0? We upgraded a number of things so big sur would be supported better. Also; as a developer, knowing that it doesn't occur with everyone is actually a helpful bit of information.
    1 point
  27. I know, old thread and all of that, but there is an awkward workaround to this huge flaw in Cura. Update the profile with the setting tweaked. (Update profile with current settings / overrides). This is important for step 5. Go to Help --> Show Configuration Folder Close out of Cura. Open the "quality_changes" folder. Sort by date, and you'll see your latest changes in one of the files, if you open the last changed file. Open that file in notepad and search for the value that you changed. (i.e. 205 if you changed your standby temperature to
    1 point
  28. In the new "Mesh Tools"-plugin there's also an option to choose the desired unit: Regards
    1 point
  29. It would make much more sense to ask Creality for support. Given that this is an LCD-type resin printer, I don't think Cura will be the suitable slicer for this printer.
    1 point
  30. Again, I don't think vacuum bags will help. You need dessicant. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Interteck-Packaging-Indicating-Desiccant-Industry/dp/B01G5NTCWW/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=dessicant&qid=1620530771&sr=8-4 Also once you get water in the filament, no amount of vacuum or dessicant will help - you need to heat it as I describe above.
    1 point
  31. The trickery by @GregValiant is totally unnecessary. While it is true that Cura places models on the buildplate regardless of their original location, it does remember the origin of the individual models. The "merge models" function @IRobertI mentioned is meant exactly for this scenario, and restores the original relative position of the models.
    1 point
  32. Geez, and I thought the lines were showing air turbulence as the Benchy went speeding along.
    1 point
  33. Time for me to eat dirt - the problem was down entirely to me, sorry! The explanation was that for this project, after slicing, I had taken advantage of the handy Cura feature that allowed me to save directly to the SD card (in its USB stick). I didn't notice that this does not let me specify a new name. For all my previous projects I had saved the gcode to my project folder on the PC, with my choice of filename. I then copied that to the SD card before inserting in the printer. I'll revert to that method from now on! The speed and automatic reject of the other method i
    1 point
  34. There was a beta release, as used to, but obviously, the beta testing users didn't do a good job... I guess Ultimaker is working for a bug fix with high pressure.
    1 point
  35. An bestens da wirklich alle Cura Settings gleich Ich kann mir nicht vorstellen wie man mit 35mm/s die erste Schicht erfolgreich drucken kann Stimmt auch die Temperatur, Filament-Ø, Temperatur des ersten Layer etc. Welches Material hast du den geladen? Läuft den auch noch der kleine Hotendlüfter? Ich weis nicht ob es in Cura eine Möglichkeit gibt, ein Profil das von einen anderen Drucker ist, auf einen anderen zu übertragen Und ja bei mir ist pro Federn Windung eine Fingernagel spalt Luft, bei dir schein mehr da viel viel weniger zu sein.
    1 point
  36. un peu de pub pour nos amis espagnols sur le forum du même nom (espagnol). le sujet en question j'y avait songé, je ne l'avais pas encore vu réalisé, il l'a fait. ok le sujet date un peu, je me réveille tard mais l'idée est excellente. bravo @M-RAGA
    1 point
  37. Je créerais un objet à coté de l'impression, près de l'angle où se parque la tête en fin d'impression, juste pour que la buse vienne y faire un petit cube dans le vide, d'une couche, au dessus du niveau de la dernière couche de la pièce, et s'arrête avec la tête hors de l'objet imprimé..
    1 point
  38. Maybe 15% infill isn't enough? For moulds, I use 25%, and to me that already feels like the minimum. After printing, my moulds are totally flat, but they are much smaller, about 10cm long. Did you post-process the thing? I found that chemical smoothing with dichloromethane tends to make moulds warp slightly too. Especially since I only smooth the inside (=casting side), not the outside of the shell, so it is uneven. Probably the chemicals go deep into the material, and into the hollows of the infill, and keep working there. Acetone smoothing tends to make them crack after some time
    1 point
  39. Bonjour @Leonardbays tu commences mal pour un premier post sur le forum. un "bonjour" est toujours bien vue par ceux qui prendront le temps de te répondre. tes photos sont éloquentes, tu as un soucis. je pense qu'un petite commentaire pour expliquer ta situation, tes réglages et ce que tu as déjà essayer, aiderait grandement le forum. à toi de jouer j'oubliais, ajoute un petit merci à la fin
    1 point
  40. You didn't mention your printer. My Creality machine has an End G-Code that Cura inserts at the end of any gcode file. I would make an adjustment there. If you have an Ultimaker printer you might still get it to work. An option would be to add it manually to the end of a gcode file. There will be a line "M140 S0" that turns the bed off. Comment that out and put the following at the end where it will execute last. I'm assuming a bed temperature of 60°. ;M140 S0 ;Add a semi-colon to make the line a comment M190 R60 G4 S3000 M190
    1 point
  41. Do you have a network drive mapped to the driveletter X:? If so, try mapping it to a different drive-letter.
    1 point
  42. I have MacOS 11.0 - Cura 4.8 - and fixed it with - Adding Cura to "Security & Privacy" - "Privacy" - "Full Disk Access"
    1 point
  43. Actually, here ya go. Attached are all three profiles I have already pulled from their Dremel Slicer from about a month or so ago (3D20, 3D40, 3D45). I just upgraded to 4.7 and they continue to work fine. (Had to zip them as this forum didn't allow me to upload json files) You'll want to place them in your Cura's install directory, under the "resources/definitions" folder: Windows: C:\Program Files\Ultimaker Cura X.X\resources\definitions Linux: ~/.local/shared/cura/X.X/definitions/ (replace X.X with your version) Note: I don't use the attached 3D20 profile but instead I u
    1 point
  44. Yeah I'll be a bit more thorough, also including 2.3.1 which was the latest 32-bit release: http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_amd64.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-15.04.06-Linux_i386.deb http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win32.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-win64.exe http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1-Darwin.dmg http://dulek.net/work/Cura-2.3.1.AppImage
    1 point
  45. We put a lot of effort in creating the content for all of the courses and lesson plans in our Academy, and we hope they’ve proven to be educational for you. But why stop learning after completing a course? It’s not unlikely that you’d like to continue to discuss and learn about that subject. Most users visit the community because they want to learn more about 3D printing. We’re looking forward hearing from you! Join the discussion and continue to learn together.
    1 point
  46. I have personally made some little anti-vibration feet for my S5 now because its on a wood desk so hopefully it will take out some the vibration and sound when printer is in use, more so because i have 2 s5 side by side printing. Best to use a TPU filament with around 50% infill, have added the stl files below for both right and left hand feet. It also gives about 6mm of extra height under the printer what gives better air flow for the fan under it. Or like i do i store the 2nd glass build plate under the printer. Body1.stl Body2.stl
    1 point
  47. thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far: 1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs: bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes 2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration. 3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but
    1 point
  48. Cura looks for neither M109 or M104, it looks for the text {material_print_temperature} (including curly braces)
    1 point
  49. Go to the Printers pane of the Preferences, and press the Machine Settings dialog. That has an option to set the number of extruders, and there are tabs per extruder to set (among other things) the offsets for each nozzle.
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...