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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 10 points
    Bath interferometers. I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors. They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester. These can test to almost 1/1000 of a wavelength of light although having the mirror within 1/10 of a wave is more than good enough. Basically anything in the photo you suspect is 3d printed - is 3d printed. The screwdriver is not and the tripod that holds it is not. Everything else plastic is 3d printed. Mostly PLA, some parts on the interferometer itself are nylon as they need to bend. 3 nylon parts you can see in the zoomed in version - sticking up the highest (not the knob which is higher I suppose) is the nylon lens holder, the cube holder also and the mirror holder which has a spherical pocket that goes around that sphere on the post. I've made quite a few of these and I keep tweaking the design. The original design is not mine but got it from thingiverse.
  3. 9 points
    Thanks for the passion you brought to all the things you did over the years!
  4. 8 points
    Hey guys, long time no see here. First of all, I'm happy that the Mark2 community is still alive (and kudos to @tinkergnome for doing the support work!) So, here's a small project which addresses one of the weaknesses of the S5 design: Prints which require good cooling, particularly with PLA and/or of smaller size, are really not among its specialties ... Printing with core1 shows even worse results than with core2 and walls facing left generally suffer more. There are two main reasons for this. First, introducing radial fans with the UM3 was a good idea but their positioning was - at least in part - driven by design criteria instead of functionality aspects. Air doesn't come straight out of these fans but more like in a 45° angle. As both fans are sitting behind the nozzles, this is a good thing for the right one, which blows to the front, whereas the left fan mainly blows backwards to nirwana. Second, there's only minimum clearance underneath the print head. Air cannot reach the nozzle tips directly but has to be diverted, which creates back pressure and reduces air flow. As UM hardware designers still freak out when they make optimum use of space, I suppose 😜, there's literally no space left to change the setup. Like only 1-2 mm to the side walls during homing or nozzle switching. But I wanted these fans to throw more air to the place where it's needed. After two days of brain racking, I thought the design should make use of another dimension: time. The head has to change shape. fans are folding in and out left fan flipped upside down to direct the airflow to the front almost directly pointing to the nozzles replaces the bottom housing of the original head printing time (3 parts): 3 hrs time to mount: 15 min Part files will follow very soon. Stay tuned 🙂
  5. 8 points
    I was asked to implement the Schwarz P and Schwarz D TPMS infill patterns by a user who wishes to compare their properties with the already implemented Gyroid pattern. This I have just done and so I'm just letting people know in case anyone wants to give them a go. This is Schwarz P ("Primitive") and I don't think it is so good for general infill as it requires a lot of travels because each layer consists of a bunch of closed loops. This is Schwarz D ("Diamond") and, like Gyroid, each layer consists of wavy lines so it requires fewer travels. Both of these patterns have shallow slopes and so to get the best visual quality they should be printed using thin layers and fat lines (i.e. 0.1mm and 200% infill flow). A known issue is that the Connect Infill Lines setting doesn't work very consistently with these patterns. More work required, there. As ever, my Cura builds can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Please read the README.md file there. For more info on TPMSs, a good page is http://facstaff.susqu.edu/brakke/evolver/examples/periodic/periodic.html All feedback is welcome!
  6. 8 points
    Somewhere around 10:00 AM this morning (CET), the total number of downloads of plugins I've published to the Marketplace crossed the 500.000 mark: Statistically, it is most likely that it was someone installing the OctoPrint Connection plugin, but I have no means to see exactly. I am fairly proud of reaching this milestone, less than 2 months after Ultimaker celebrated 1 million downloads from the Marketplace, which itself was only launched a year ago. I'll do my best to continue to improve your Cura workflow.
  7. 8 points
    I printed this model last month..
  8. 7 points
    Don't worry. A lot of the people working at Ultimaker still have "the small guys / girls" at heart. Probably because most of them used to be on the other side before. So even if the recently announced products don't match up with the expectations of that part of the market, it's by no means an indication that we forgot about all the other parts.
  9. 6 points
    In times of Corona and the call #stayathome, we thought we would become more self-sufficient to avoid shopping. So I had the following idea, where my Ultimaker S5 supported me a lot and, as always, provided me with very good services and results. You wouldn't believe how versatile such a 3D printer can be. But pictures say more than words: 1.) Set the bed temp to 27°C 2.) Put the bowl with the bread dough into the printer and let the dough rise for one hour 3.) Put the dough in a basket and let him again raise for some time: 4.) Final product after the S5 finished his work and before baking 5.) And here die final result after baking - perfect! I've always known that you can do a lot of things with a 3D printer, but I never thought it would be so versatile and can also be used for baking. 🙂 In this context, stay healthy and stay at home.
  10. 6 points
    Hi guys! I'd like to share my new work! I printed a batch of parts with white PLA and assembled them into several scale models of houses. I will use these models in visual planning of residential development. For this job, I used a Ultimaker 2+ 3D printer.
  11. 6 points
    I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty. **** I used two materials for testing, Extrudr TPU Soft and Ninjaflex, both 85A. I used the regular feeder from the UM2+ , combined with a pancake stepper motor (LDO-42STH25-1404MAC#190920) this stepper is less than half the weight of the normal stepper. I had to cut some length of the shaft to make it fit. The stepper has a different # steps per rotation and as it's impossible to change the steps setting for the S5 on one feeder it needs compensation in flow (200% flow = 100%) Obviously the result is a crazy top heavy setup, but if you just want to print an occasional gasket it should be fine, specially since you need to print materials this flexible very slow (15 mm/s) anyhow. On an Ultimaker2 the extra weight is enormous, on the S5 not so much as it's very heavy already anyhow. The nice thing is you can see into the feeder so during testing it's easy to spot when the feeder can't cope if you try to speed it up to much. If something goes wrong it's mainly during the first few layers, so watch them... otherwise you'll spend a few minutes again taking the feeder apart... To validate the basic setup I printed regular PLA on both converted machines, to make sure the setup (including changed steps/flow due to different motor) was correct. On the UM2 head the ninjaflex was pretty easy to get working, i managed to print with constant and reliable extrusion using a 0.4 nozzle. The materials prints best around (I tested with 0.15 layers) Flow : 110-115 % (with feeder tension set to lowest point) Temperature : 210 c Speed : 15 to 20 mm/s The easiest way to test temperature and flow is by printing simple cilinders, foir the S5 you can use the "tune" menu to play with values on the fly. Getting ninjaflex to work on the S5 proved to be more difficult than on the UM2, at the same settings using an 0.4 mm nozzle prints failed all the time, it seems the CORE, is much more of a challenge that a UM2 setup. I blame the longer filament path, and the metal tube of the core. Only when I changed to the 0.8 nozzle and the CC0.6 I was able to get reliable results. My main S5 tests are with the CC0.6, atm my best results are with the following settings; The S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates. Layer height 0,15 Initial layer height 0,25 Top/bottom pattern & Innitial layer pattern ; concentric (avoid lot's of small lines, head vibration) Innitial printing temperature/ innitial layer : 230c Printing teperature : 215c Skirt/Brim flow 140% (= realy 70%, due to the different stepper motor) Innitial layer flow 150% (= realy 75%, due to the different stepper motor) Flow 225% (= 2x the real flow, due to the different stepper motor) Print speed 15 mm/s Innitial layer speed, Skirt/Brim speed 10mm/s Cooling at 100%, start with 20% and let it rise over 10 layers) Turn off the flow sensor (in the settings menu) on the S5, as you're not using that feeder.. Conclusion, even if you eliminate the bowden, printing 85A flex on an Ultimaker S5 is still a bit of a challenge. The used feeder (UM2+UM3 model) and filament path are not ideal. But, usually if you make it past the first few layers, and have relatively simple prints that keep the flow going it's very well possible to print ninjaflex on the S5. I have not experimented a lot with it jet, but I also managed a simple test print using PLA for support on the 2th extruder. the hardware hack; The feeder plate mounts to 3 screws of the head, so you can leave one and the head will stay assembled during mounting. I made a little breakout plug for the left stepper motor on the back of the printer, so I can change between direct and bowden in just a few minutes. I just leave the black mounting plate on the head. In needed to make a hole in the bottom plate for the DIY extension cable. I isolated the plug with hot glue. some side notes; Cura can sometimes create fantastic vibrator g-codes, not nice with this heavy setup, so one thing you can do to prevent this is to change line fill to cylindrical fill, and check the layer preview. ninjaflex openRC wheel, printed on S5 extrudr TPU soft (85A just like ninjaflex) gasket, printed on S5 S5 stl's S5_FlexDirect.zip
  12. 6 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  13. 6 points
    "Continuous, hassle-free 3D printing, like never before! " As you may have seen a new image appeared on our homepage this morning, exciting news! On September 24th we'll announce what big news we have been working on for you. Keep an eye our for more updates and feel free to speculate below!
  14. 6 points
    This orange component removes the finished parts from the press. The part replaced an aluminum part, which in each case additionally had to be equipped with a teflon glider and was also much more expensive to manufacture. In addition, the 3d printed component was provided with a break point, which protects the upper punch against damage in the event of a crash.
  15. 6 points
    Just thought I'd try to print some glasses on a model rather than adding ,(my photogrammetry scanned cousin). Glasses were scanned separately on a table by the way. Printing worked great but made the eyes harder to clean up being behind the glasses. Default support settings. Sprayed white. I'm starting to experiment with paint now... Pooh brown colorfabb at 0.06 Hopefully ill have a model in space by Monday, fingers crossed.
  16. 6 points
    So just to be clear, you don’t own a Ultimaker printer, but use Cura, the free open source product for which Ultimaker is paying a large part of the development, and when something goes wrong you feel the need to bash Ultimaker? I understand being frustrated sometimes..... and you excused yourself already..... but please be nice....
  17. 6 points
    Made these 2 custom downspout diverters. Each one is a different angle. Used openScad to design. S5 to print. zero support was needed. Oh - also the brown barrel has a white hose clamp that I modeled in DSM and printed with Nylon filament.
  18. 5 points
    Hi folks, I'm new to Cura, but after finally upgrading my OS (I use Ubuntu Linux) I found that Makerware is no longer offered for Linux, which means suddenly I couldn't drive the 3 Replicator 2's that I have. This gave me the push I needed to get into Cura as I'd heard such great things about it. The only problem is, is that it seems not many who use Cura have Replicator 2's, and the built in profile is for a Replicator 1 and needs some tweaking. Furthermore, the X3GWriter seems to want to detect it only as a Replicator 1, which has different numbers of steps per mm so all printed items were turning out a little bigger than they should have been. I've written a blog about it step by step for those in the same boat as me here: http://jessestevens.com.au/2019/10/20/configuring-cura-4-3-for-makerbot-replicator-2/ But to also make sure in case my blog disappears etc to help others I'll put the steps here: First up, I’m using it in Ubuntu Linux (18.04) so locations of files might need to be changed for your config files as needed. This is for Cura v4.3. Step 1: Set up your printer I chose Makerbot Replicator from the printers page, and made a couple of changes to the settings: xwidth: 225mm ydepth: 145mm xheight: 150mm build plate shape: rectangular origin at centre: yes heated bed: no heated build volume: no gcode flavour: makerbot I also renamed the machine name to “Replicator 2” just so I would remember. Step 2: Start and end GCode You’ll need some custom Gcode so here it is (picked from various places and organised after some testing). Start Gcode: ; — start of START GCODE – M73 P0 (enable build progress) ;this next line won’t work, but has the steps command M92 X88.8 Y88.8 Z400 E101 ; sets steps per mm for Rep2 G90 (set positioning to absolute) (**** begin homing ****) G162 X Y F4000 (home XY axes maximum) G161 Z F3500 (home Z axis minimum) G92 Z-5 (set Z to -5) G1 Z0.0 (move Z to “0”) G161 Z F100 (home Z axis minimum) M132 X Y Z A B (Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis) (**** end homing ****) G92 X147 Y66 Z5 G1 X105 Y-60 Z10 F4000.0 (move to waiting position) G130 X0 Y0 A0 B0 (Set Stepper motor Vref to lower value while heating) G130 X127 Y127 A127 B127 (Set Stepper motor Vref to defaults) G0 X105 Y-60 (Position Nozzle) G0 Z0.6 (Position Height) ; — end of START GCODE – End GCode: ; — start of END GCODE – G92 Z0 G1 Z10 F400 M18 M104 S0 T0 M73 P100 (end build progress) G162 X Y F3000 M18 ; — end of END GCODE – This of course all assumes you don’t have a heated bed (also makes sure it doesn’t send heated bed commands which make the machine complain). Step 3: Install X3G file converter Go to the “Marketplace” button at the top right of your Cura window and in the marketplace search for “X3GWriter” and install it. Restart Cura so that it comes live. Step 4: Modify X3GWriter so that it always detects “Replicator 2” There seems to be a problem with X3GWriter in that with the above setup it always detects the machine to be a replicator 1, which is a problem as they have different amounts of steps per mm. You’ll know this because if you have a Replicator 2 and you try to print an object, it’ll keep printing larger than it should be. I’m sure there’s another way to make it detect “Replicator 2” but in the mean time I just changed it to always be Replicator 2 as that is all I have. Locate your plugins folder – for me it’s in /home/username/.local/share/cura/4.3/plugins (where username is your username). Go into the X3GWriter folder (and again into it, it’s nested twice – the path for me is: /home/username/.local/share/cura/4.3/plugins/X3GWriter/X3GWriter/) Open “X3GWriter.py” with your favourite text editor. Be careful in here, it’s a python script so you want to use spaces, not tabs to indent, and indents matter. If you destroy it you may have to just remove the plugin and install it again. We’re looking for the line like this: return machine if machine in X3GWriter.known_machines else None Note again that it’s indented with spaces in front. Put a # in front of this line to comment it out so it doesn’t get read like this: #return machine if machine in X3GWriter.known_machines else None Now go to the next line, press space until you’re lined up with the line above and put in: return “r2” Save the file and close Cura, then restart it. If all is well, you’ll find you can now export files that will print properly and be read by your Replicator 2. If you find the X3G file option has disappeared from your list, then the plugin is broken. Check your syntax in the plugin file and try again. Is this a little hacky? Yes, and I realise it may not be for everyone, especially if you're working with multiple printers, but until I can find a way to pass along to X3GWriter to filter the output through a Replicator 2 profile, this has been the only way I've been able to make it all work. Funnily, using Cura has massively improved the reliability and quality of the printers and improved my faith in them again. It seems Makerware wasn't doing as good a job as I thought it was, and was leaving these older Gen4 printers behind a little with their slicing algorithms. I hope this has been useful for people like me that were pulling their hair out trying to make it happen - don't throw that printer away! Jesse
  19. 5 points
    Now available is a Linux AppImage that runs on an armhf system (e.g. a Pi 4). It has received minimal testing but it does appear to work (I sliced a benchy OK!). Obviously, even the amazing Pi 4 is still quite limited compared to most laptops, etc. so don't expect stellar performance but it is surprisingly usable. I think it exceeded my expectation. It is highly recommend that you have 4GB of memory and a CPU fan! Known limitations are that currently the layer view only works in compatibility mode and that the UI QML is slow due to lack of JIT support. If you try it out, please post feedback on this thread or open an issue at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues. You can find the release at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Remember, all my builds are provided with no warranty whatsoever. That said, I try to fix issues where I can.
  20. 5 points
    I have created a plugin that lets Cura access HID mouse devices such as the 3Dconnexion Spacemouse. It's called RawMouse because the plugin interfaces directly to the raw device without the aid/hinderance of an operating system driver. It's not a sophisticated all-singing, all-dancing interface, it simply converts the HID mouse commands into the equivalent 2D mouse commands. It has been (vaguely) tested on Linux and Windows 10 and it should also function on MacOS (10.13 upwards). For a quick install, unzip the latest RawMouse.zip from https://github.com/smartavionics/RawMouse/releases into your plugins directory, connect your Spacemouse, and start Cura. The usual weasel words apply, it's supplied with no warranty, YMMV, etc. All feedback is welcome. Either comment in this thread or open an issue on the github page.
  21. 5 points
    A user of my Cura builds asked about reducing the chance of resonance when printing areas of skin with short lines. I have therefore added a new setting "Avoid Frequency" that, when non-zero, specifies the resonant frequency to avoid. Skin, infill and support interface lines using the Lines and zig zag patterns that would be printed using hot end motion within +-/20% of that frequency will be slowed to move away from that frequency band. Here's an example showing the speed reductions in the narrow(er) skin regions... So if anyone uses a printer that has resonance issues and are willing to try out this feature, I would be grateful if you could give it a go and report back whether it is beneficial or not. Obviously, you will need to determine a suitable value for Avoid Frequency and that is going to be printer specific. It may be that my simplistic approach to just avoiding frequencies within 20% of the specified value is not good enough and it may require either a bandwidth setting adding or upper and lower frequency limits. As ever, my builds can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Please read the README.md file there. All feedback is welcome. Thanks.
  22. 5 points
    Great work @cloakfiend ! Hope you woke up 🙂 yesterday i assembled my latest print and used some primer. Still needs to be sanded a little bit. After that painted and will get some epoxy.
  23. 5 points
    Some of my work for silicone mold making
  24. 5 points
    Hello community! Let me introduce myself. My name is Michiel van Rooijen, I am the new product owner for the Ultimaker.com website. I'm thrilled to find this section of the forum as I think it could be a great place for my team to start gathering feedback from the community in regards to our website. We've been hard at work creating new features - but our work is never done. Pretty soon we'll really start to look back and polish what we've made so far, and that's where we need your help. We are currently in the process of replacing some of the older pages. So expect me to be somewhat more active in this part of the community and in the meanwhile: feel free to use this thread to give us some first feedback on the different pages (such as our software pages, printer pages and our recently revamped learn section). Michiel.
  25. 5 points
    There are companies that take the open source, make changes and give these modified Cura versions to their clients, forgetting to share the changes. This does not make Cura any less open source, but it does make those companies arses.
  26. 5 points
    Way back in the day, Warren Publishing put out a set of black and white magazines. Creepy was one of those magazines and, the mascot was Uncle Creepy. Being the comics fan I am, plus having read the magazines when they were first released (yes....that old) I started this project a while back. This is the concept rendering: And, this is the beginnings of finishing the print. Still moving slow, but improving, so, if you like this, be patient as it has gazillions of parts to paint and assemble. All things printed, just need to be finalized. I had a large 5 sided plexi display case since it is much cheaper to not have them include a premade base. So, I designed the base for the print to sit on, but also let me create a nice 'show' base. This is the Base as it laid within the S5 buildspace. It is big, so it is on an angle. The white is the base and the beige part is a construct to minimize use of PVA. That stuff is expensive and difficult to print with. So, the less of it being used is always a plus. This shows the gap between the PLA construct and the base with just the tiny amount of PVA to deal with. This is the printed piece. I had to reload a material and that is why the divisions in colour. This is the painted base. I will probably do touch ups and refinement as time goes on. Now, for the walls and floor, it was just too big for a single print. This shows the breakup of the model into printable sections. This is how big: This is the main part sitting on the S5 Buildplate. This is the walls and floor assembled and primed sitting on the base. This is how the display case fits over the assembly. More to come as I finish pieces. I have no rhyme or reason for the order of things to be finished. For instance, I have painted a few small objects like the Coat of Arms shield. Not much, but, just out of order of parts finished to start building the piece of the whole.
  27. 5 points
    Uncle Creepy...that is 😁 Edit: I forgot one piece that probably nobody but me would miss, but it is really done now: Actually, the glue set up nicely and this is the finished project. I may do some odd touch-ups if I see anything really amiss. That thing is about 18.5 inches from bottom of base to top of display case. The lighting is a bit more natural this go around. And all buttoned up in the display case.
  28. 5 points
    I'm no longer responsible for the firmware at Ultimaker. As I left Ultimaker 2 months ago. Didn't make a huge fuzz about it. But I left to focus more on my family. The travel time to Ultimaker was no longer acceptable for me anymore. Also, I suggested to develop a feature to import/export network settings to a text file on USB to handle all "odd" configuration options. But it never got priority. And: connman enable ethernet Won't do anything, because the network managment service that is part of the firmware will disable it again, which is linked to the printer settings network configuration. So enabling cabled connection in the firmware menu, will enable the ethernet in connman.
  29. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  30. 5 points
    Hi, after many hours and prototypes my RC Mini Jet Boat is ready and online. You could find the files as download on https://cults3d.com/en/users/jtronics Follow us on Cults3d and on Youtube to get notice of our New Uploads!
  31. 4 points
    Wanted a power socket on my TONONE reading light. So I made one. Colorfabb color on demand PLA. Added a little piece of ninjaflex for friction against rotation.
  32. 4 points
    So with a bit of modding cable for screen all working with skr 1.4 and ultimaker 2 controller screen, led, buzzer, sd card also working fine. Running marlin 2.0.x. Couple more bits and 32bit Ultimaker up and running.
  33. 4 points
    People kept badgering me to add this feature (https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/gradient-infill-for-3d-prints) but I'm not yet convinced it's a good idea. Anyway, it's been a rainy weekend here so I had to do something. Here's an example of what it does... Notice how the infill that's away from the walls is thinner than the infill that's close to the walls. If you want to try it, you can find the builds at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Please, please, please, read the README.md file that's there before using any of my builds and do make backups of your configurations, profiles, project files, etc. before you try it out. All feedback is welcome, either here or at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues
  34. 4 points
    I was talking about the other points in the original post, not the Cura crashes. But it’s hard to keep track with so many different types of issues in a single thread. With regards to Cura crashes, it would be best to submit an issue on the GitHub repo of Cura with log files attached. Otherwise the devs cannot debug your issue.
  35. 4 points
    Please use this subcategory for any questions regarding our online services. By posting here instead of in the Cura threads, chances are that the right people look at your question sooner!
  36. 4 points
    Hi everyone! My name is Lucas Baronzini, I am from Buenos Aires, Argentina. I work for Altana3D which is an additive manufacturing company that offers solutions for both medicine and dental applications. We actually own 8 Ultimaker 3 Extended that we use specifically for biomodeling and prequirurgic design/planning. We also, as a side business, provide 3d printing servicies for other areas. Thank you! www.altana3d.com @altana3d
  37. 4 points
    Sadly it failed. Have no idea why. I need to hit up some time lapse forums. Instead of 14000 photos. I have 1 folder of 0001-2170 and another folder of 8999-9999 so upset and gutted. It would have looked so cool. Either way ill speed up what I got but the magic happens at the start. Last frame. I don't even have the first..... what a dumb system. I've been f-ing and blinding for the past 30 mins. So annoyed. Oh well. Bugger.... Hold up... its weird... I actually think I have it somehow? But 1 photo every 15 secs is 4 per min and thats 240 per hour......for 15 hours....thats 3600, I'm such an idiot. I some how calculated 900 photos per minute and expected to find like 14000? Whatever it worked!!!! Yay! Don't think the last few hours added anything but I guess ill find out. First photo, after acid (re-positioned and de-focused a touch as predicted) photo, and last photo. Video will be tomorrow. I'm working at 5am tomoz!
  38. 4 points
    Bronzefil @.15mm , PVA support. S5.
  39. 4 points
    Hi guys! Happy to share my new work! I have modeled and printed a plaster figure prototype, from which I will be able to take off the uniform and cast copies for my big architecture project! In order to do this, I had scanned the original plaster figure using the 3D scanner. Then I corrected the model, removed all the chips and flaws of the original and printed it out using white PLA SnowFlake plastic on a Ultimaker 3D printer. Layer thickness 0.1 mm. The photo on the left is the original, and on the right you can see the printed model. What do you think about this work? Any comments?
  40. 4 points
    I would really like to know where you find that scientific experiment. I agree that the press isn't the most trustworthy source of knowledge. And I will not disagree that plants need CO2 to grow. But claim that we can solve all our problems by emitting more CO2 I find hard to agree on.
  41. 4 points
    Looks like he's undergone quite a bit of plastic surgery while he was gone...
  42. 4 points
    Superhero's never die... ** early "Mark2" dual print...
  43. 4 points
    🤣🤣 These two guys popped into mind when I read that. I know...I know...I am old. This is a better pic. B.O.B is the one on the right....
  44. 4 points
    Today I printed 600 grams of PETG scrap... Miscalculated how much was on the roll and found the printer printing 5 mm in the air this morning. Made a label to show approximate length remaining so I hope this was the last time. ( Rounded the values so it might look some irregular)
  45. 4 points
    WARNING: The website, www.3dlac.nl does not belong to our company and we have no link whatsoever, there have been customers who have told us that they have bought there and do not send anything. we have communicated to the web, the possible crime that they are committing by using a registered trademark, in addition to defrauding users. We are going to take the appropriate legal measures JOSE ANGEL CASTAÑO CEO 3DLAC
  46. 4 points
    A test-version that should work with both Cura 4.0 and Cura 4.1 is available here: http://files.fieldofview.com/cura/SidebarGUIPlugin-v6.0.0-2019-06-11T21_09_03Z.curapackage Download the file, and drop it into a running Cura application window. Then restart Cura. If this version works, it should be available from the Marketplace as an update soon.
  47. 3 points
    Say you stumble upon a party. Well, stumbled upon... you've been hearing about this nice recurring family thing from your friends; they hand out this nice apple pie there. Completely free, very nice pie. Friendly folks... You have a good time. Couple weeks later, you come back expecting great pie again. For free ofcourse. Turns out they've put some more cinnamon in their pie. Because lots of people said their pie was better with lots of cinnamon, and these cinnamon lovers even put up youtube videos about how to add cinnamon to the pie. Problem is, many people got cinnamon in their nose when eating this modded apple pie, and cinnamon up your nose isn't all that great. Because it is much better to bake the cinnamon into the pie, the friendly family starts to do just that: add more cinnamon to the pie before baking. You know, as a nice gesture to all those guests who came in asking why there is not more cinnamon in their pie. Problem is: some people like the original pie better. Do you think it is a good idea to break down the door of the nice family and scream from the top of your lungs "What did you do?! YOUR PIE IS COMPLETE GARBAGE!". Do you think the family is inclined to give you more pie? What I am trying to say: you come across a bit rude and ungrateful.
  48. 3 points
    That's not how Union overlapping volumes works. It's a bit hard to explain, but here we go. Union Overlapping Volumes is meant to solve problems inside a single mesh, not the interaction between two meshes. If you have two mesh files than their interaction is governed by Remove Mesh Intersection. There is no option to union, because the two meshes might have different settings in the per-object settings menu. If you want to union them you could export those two models as a single STL file and import that again. Then the overlap is within the same model and the Union Overlapping Volumes dos its magic 😉
  49. 3 points
    An updated version of Sidebar GUI (4.0.7) has been posted to the Marketplace, which adds compatibility with Cura 4.5, fixes a couple of bugs and adds a toggle to switch between perspective and orthographic projection. Subtle changes. Edit: See the shiny new web-based Marketplace: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/fieldofview/SidebarGUIPlugin
  50. 3 points
    This is just a friendly reminder to people that when asking for help, it helps us to help you if you supply things such as models to be examined. It is amazing how many things are actually model related. But without the model and full information (printer, model, etc) it is just a guessing game.
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