Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  2. 7 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  3. 6 points
  4. 6 points
    Hi, I have created this thread to keep an overview on which materials are available through Cura as part of our Material Alliance. We can add a short description of each material so you have at least a basic idea of its properties. Do realize this is a summary, if you want to know specific properties please visit each filament specific technical data sheet. I'll also include a link to each individual thread, in case you want to discuss a material specifically. Questions? Feel free to post them below! This thread will be updated over time. BASF - PET CF. Carbon fiber, high dimensional stability, low moisture absorption, heat-resistant of 74ºC - PP GF30 . Glass fiber (30%), extreme stiffness, chemical resistance. Clariant - Clariant PA6/66 FR. Flame retardant. - Clariant PA6/66 GF20 FR . Glass Fiber (20%), flame retardant. - Clariant Pet-G. Chemical resistance, good layer adhesion, heat-resistant ~80ºC. Colorfabb - Color On Demand, PLA in 100+ RAL colors at 2kg MOQ. - woodFill , 70% PLA and 30% wood provides a wood-like texture DSM - Arnitel ID 2045 . ShoreD 34 hardness, flexible TPC. - Arnitel ID 2060 HT . High performance TPC, high temperature, chemical resistance. - Novamid ID1030 CF10 PA6/66. Carbon fibers (10%). Dupont - Zytel 3D1000FL. Ultralow shrinkage. - Hytrel 3D41000FL, shoreD 60 hardness. Eastman - Amphora AM3300. Low-odor, styrene-free material. ElogioAM - Facilan C8 . 3D print almost without layers, good interlayer bonding. Igus GmbH - Iglidur I150 . Self-lubricating, wear resistant. - Iglidur I180. Self-lubricating, wear resistant. Lehvoss - Luvocom 3F PAHT 9825 NT. Unreinforced PAHT, low warping. Matterhackers - NylonG . Glass fiber (~20%). - NylonX. Carbon fiber (~20%). Owens Corning - XSTRAND GF30 PP . Glass fiber (30%). - XSTRAND GF30 PA6 . Glass fiber (30%).
  5. 5 points
    The Cura team is now working on fixing a couple of bugs related with the error checker and the Z Hop Speed for the Creality 3D printers. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  6. 5 points
    ...in the meantime here is a censored bust, just in case anyone was offended, re-touched sculpted scan data and I had no photos of the back so I just left it plain, and chopped the arms of for statue effect. For the life of me this one just wouldn't polish anymore than this I spend ages and loads of compound and cloths to no avail, the copper grain was just too coarse to smoothly polish (a result of a too high current!). It was also a sign to say goodbye to my solution and a highlight that surface quality massively impacts the ability to plate and the final outcome....which actually turned out ok, I wish I could post a few more models which turned out great but they are extremely graphic close ups so theres no way and too many eyebrows would be raised!!.
  7. 4 points
    So, after a week or so learning the ins and outs of the S5, I finally pulled the trigger (pressed the button) on my first 24 hour print. It's intended to be a Christmas lamp, and will soon be filled with lights/a bulb. I'll post another pic when it's finnished Modelled in siemens NX and printed at 0.2 with Inofil pro1 white fillament. (tough PLA)
  8. 4 points
    true. I bet he made a lot of people very happy without even knowing! in the meantime i've been repeating my nonsense from yesterday. I was fiddling around with my 'quick' sculpt. and only now i realise im going in circles, and now ive ended up on an old version, because all my new ones looked weird, its annoying. i've filmed me making this from a sphere as usual. but ive lost the history now so cant go back. im just gonna print this rough version and see how it looks.... ....I just remembered the very first thing i printed that i made was a sphere as i couldn't sculpt back then, and it didn't look good, but i felt it was possible....somehow, thats what got me so interested 4 years ago...
  9. 4 points
    Ultimaker Cura 3.5 is ready and its waiting for you! It comes with new features, bug fixes and UX improvements. As always you can download it for free from our website, whether you run Windows, MacOS or Linux. So what does Ultimaker Cura 3.5 have in stock for you? A few of the highlights: Prime tower reliability The prime tower has been subjective to quite some changes and improvements over the last period of time. We strive to make it as space and time efficient as possible while also making it more reliable (i.e., less prone to tipping over). In our latest improvement, a prime tower has 2 sets of walls. The outer wall which is printed by extruder 1 which functions as a purge bin for extruder 2. This makes the prime tower more reliable because there is less layer bonding between different materials. Improved overhang wall processing When overhang walls are detected, they're printed with varying speed and perimeters will not start on an overhang wall. This should result in higher quality overhang surfaces. Material preferences When you often use a similar set of materials, you can now set them as favorites and save yourself some time! They can be quickly accessed in the material selection. Custom support. Inspired by, and similar to the support blocker you can now also create custom support with Ultimaker Cura 3.5. It works just like the blocker, select the area on your model where you want to add custom support using (small) blocks, and voila. Ultimaker Cura settings guide. Very excited about this new guide. In the toolbox you can find a new plugin called 'Cura settings guide'. When it opens you can find all features in Cura and a more descriptive explanation about what it does and how it works. Most of the times accompanied by a visual example. But there is more! User Experience - Hotkeys; quickly toggle through model manipulation tools (generally on your left) using hotkeys. - File menu; 'Save' now saves projects, and 'export' saves models as other file types. - 3MF project files; it's time to say goodbye to '.curaproject' types. Project files now use a 3MF extension instead. - 'Open recent' is added to the menu now too. - Monitor page; not just Cura but also Cura Connect has been updated. The print jobs interface has been improved so there would be less switching between tabs. Slicing enhancements - Initial layer support line distance, users can now configure the density of the first layer of support structures. Allowing you to reduce or increase adhesion to the buildplate and overal strength. - Fan speed override; with this new setting the fan speed can be modified on bridged areas where support is used. Note: this only works when support is enabled. Bug fixes For better stability and performance, we have fixed a variety of bugs in this release. Including excess M109 commands in GCODE, unnecessary travel movements, extra skin wall count, the order of printed models, and many more. For a full rundown of bug fixes, please view the release notes. Last but not least, a big thank you to @smartavionics, @ahoeben, @bagel-orb, Kriechi, MarmaladeForMeat and Cubiq. You are vital to the development and progress of Ultimaker Cura. Also a thank you to everyone who helped us beta test Ultimaker Cura 3.5 Beta. Without you, we wouldn't be able to release the stable version today. Convinced? Download Ultimaker Cura 3.5 right here. Need more information? Here is our blog and here are the release notes. Please let us know what you think below! ?
  10. 4 points
    Hi Folks, I hope you enjoy evaluating the new gyroid infill pattern, it's very fashionable, right now. Just a quick word to alert you that because the infill pattern is, essentially, a mutating sine wave, it is possible to induce resonance in your printer when printing large areas of gyroid infill if the frequency of the head movement matches the resonant frequency of your printer. So, please observe the print head when you print a large area of gyroid infill the first time and if it is moving side to side more than you would expect, slow the print down to stop the print head thrashing around. When I observed it happening, a 10% speed reduction was all that was necessary to stop the resonance. Reducing the density of the infill will also reduce the frequency.
  11. 4 points
    The only reason for us to use boron carbide is that we want to absorb neutrons and boron (the 10 isotope) has very good properties for this. Boron Carbide is a chemically stable reasonably priced ceramic powder with high boron content (four boron atoms and one carbon atom). While a softer material with high boron content would have been preferable, there are no such options in a reasonable price range. Other uses is for example as a grinding powder, which explains why it eats 3D printer nozzles ? That is the basic reason behind the Olsson block and the Olsson Ruby nozzle, summed up in a few sentences ? If you are interested in further reading, we have published much of our work in an open access article: http://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.1088/1402-4896/aa694e (Check out the Supplementary Data too for information about the Olsson block and other stuff) There is currently no commercial production of boron carbide filament but there might be in the future. Be ware though, if you even come across it, that boron carbide is one of few materials which is harder than ruby, so it will slowly wear the ruby.
  12. 4 points
    I am Stefania Dinea, an architect who mixes 3D printing, VR, parametric design and blogging daily and I will share some of my 3D printing tips & tricks with you. This series is my overview about the process and my work-around. Please feel free to comment and add. PREVIOUS POST: THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 01 TOPOGRAPHY THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 02 MASSING THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 03 TOLERANCES AND SNUG FIT THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 04 ENTOURAGE THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 05 HIGH RESOLUTION BUILDING FACADES THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 06 INTERIOR DESIGN THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 07 STL EXPORT FROM REVIT THE ARCHITECTURE OF 3D PRINTING - 08 OPTIMIZE BUILD VOLUME 09 MATERIAL PROFILES In this section I am going to share some of my favorite tips&tricks. It took me over two years to learn that the best material for a printer is the one wearing the manufacturers logo, therefore the best material for an Ultimaker is Ultimaker material. Not only that, but Ultimaker has been nice enough not only to incorporate their own material settings into cura but also some generic settings that may include materials that are not necessarily apart of the Ultimaker family. This scenario allows you to focus on your goal – fast prototyping your idea and not spend to much time and energy on custom settings. However if you are a tinker – cura and the ultimaker machine will allow you to push your imagination into reality – with enough custom settings to break new boundaries. To conclude, when in doubt – go with what works! When handling materials, especially new ones, I do strongly recommend beginning with the recommended settings already found in cura. However, in Architecture I found it most useful to also restrict the type of materials to new adventurers in the field of 3D printing to PLA and PVA (If an UM 3 or higher is available). Personally, I think a UM2 still adds a lot of value to the education side, because it forces a different type of mentality, one that is design altering. Another thing that I like to custom make in cura is tailor my materials, to also include the price, therefore getting a material cost/printed piece and also include the producer and the supplier, so I always know which materials I use with what. First, you begin by downloading the technical data sheet of the material: These are the very useful information such as weight, and also ability to figure out the density of your filament. So, to create a custom new material, you go to Manage Printers> Materials>Create Using the information I already have, it is easy to fill in the info (in this example the cost is fictive) And the result looks something like this: As you can see, when you tweak your materials there are some benefits, not only accurately calculating how much time it needs to complete a job, or how much material, but also it helps prove the point that 3D printing is affordable in terms of material cost. Here are also my general all purpose printing settings (I only use this on UM machines and only when I use PLA) Layer height - 0.2 therefore top bottom thickness should be a multiply of this 0.2*6=1.2 Nozzle 0.4 so wall thickness should be a multiple of that 0.4*3=1.2 I have noticed I can take up the printing speed to 100 mm/s in cases of extreme urgency, which is almost always. I do not prefer to print with brim, but I always want to start my print with a skirt. Till next time. //S
  13. 3 points
    Ha, I see what you did there with the blog post title...
  14. 3 points
    En dessinant le remplissage dans la modélisation de l'éprouvette... et en imprimant sans remplissage.
  15. 3 points
    On an (almost) unrelated topic, Here is a photo of four Chainmaille crosses that I designed and created in 12 gauge wire rings. Les
  16. 3 points
    yay! It was a pain to hold the fabric. my clips are either too big or too small. 😞
  17. 3 points
    What @Steverc1572 and @PatK say together just about describes an issue. I'm guessing it's the same issue. PSA: please be a bit more descriptive when reporting something. What did you do (step-by-step), what did you think would happen, and what happened instead. Especially that step-by-step description is often important to be able to reproduce a bug. A bug that cannot be reproduced often can not be fixed. Finally, it is very helpful if you mention what printer type you added in Cura.
  18. 3 points
    I kind of understand why he is thinking scaling with pin points will be logical, since he's from CAD/CAM tool background. And many CAD/CAM tool can just send jobs to hardware right away without problems. Starting with curves, sketches and restraints, and export them into paths. It's all logical in that sense, when it's Parametric modeling. What he might not understand is 3D printers and slicers have to deal with Non-Parametric modeling. Scaling in Parametric modeling world can be easy since they work with constraints and paths, but once a model is converted into STL they became static. What he is asking for is that CURA might hv to allow user to pin-point and select vertices on a model to make scaling accordingly... which can be a nightmare and might require a whole new engine and the whole workflow needed to be reimagined. The mechanics of a 3D printer might be similar to a CNC but no it's not the same thing. I also work with similar projects where i have to export joints and pegs in different sizes and clearances. I use variables in e.g. Fusion360 to make constraints work for models in different sizes and export them separately. Eventually I use scripts to automate that, and I still prefer to keep the resizing/exporting and printing procedures separated, rather than trying to use the same file and print different sizes. It wouldn't be a good way to manage files and bad for the workflow.
  19. 3 points
    Well for those interested theres not much difference in detail in dousing the object in acetone other than you get more spots for longer than a quick brush. But thats about it, i guess i must not have covered the bottom of this other one above all that well. The issue with over brushing is that after you have brushed off the additives in the PLA PHA then there is less smoothing material left behind because you have essentially washed it off/out. If you over acetone it could split due to drying out. But I must say since using the s5 I have not had one model split on me regardless of how much acetone I used. It must be the fact that on my UM2 I was printing so low that some layers had simply not bonded as well as I had thought.....Oh well some nicer photos, had to be done. The one on the left has been brushed on for a whole minute as i didn't have enough acetone to dunk it! and the one on the right is just a quick wax on and job done. I finally need to buy some more...Id say 1 litres of acetone lasts me about a year. Thats good value!
  20. 3 points
    This is exactly the way Cura handles it right now.
  21. 3 points
    And my first real agisoft scan and print. I spent a few hours cleaning this up but didnt really need to. Only one lace was messed up and the logos. The rest was cosmetic. And a the sole is simplified because i lost interest as it was only a test.... Cute Airmax 95, my left one. Heard some weird grinding sounds from the head during this one so glad to see it came out ok!
  22. 3 points
    I agreed with Dim3nsioneer in terms of diagnose and disabled the jet setting. I also set "SeamCornerPreference" to "Hide or Expose" as Nicolinux suggested just to be sure. I just printed it and the problem has been solved! Thank you guys.
  23. 3 points

    Version 1.0

    9,687 downloads

    The original dodecahedral kinetic sculpture by Stijn van der Linden a.k.a. Virtox. Made of five nested dodecahedra, each one is limited to rotate around its own axis. It was printed with dual extrusion on an Ultimaker 3 with water-soluble PVA support material.
  24. 2 points
    It seems that heat and age can cause this, and that some batches may be more prone to it. Just a little background on LEDs https://www.digikey.com/en/articles/techzone/2011/aug/whiter-brighter-leds also, a couple of threads with similar issues: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/782977-cablemod-white-led-strip-turning-yellow/
  25. 2 points
    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  26. 2 points
    We are working on it right now. We found the problem and we plan to release a hotfix ASAP. Keep you informed. Thanks for all the feedback.
  27. 2 points
    I am not really a fan of browser-based GUIs, because that leaves you with an additional variable that you are dependent on but have no control over: the browser. Here are a few examples. Firefox was excellent until one day they changed the whole UI and concept, after which it broke all add-ons and became useless for 80% of its users. This broke a lot of people's workflow. Advanced users - like most people here are - tend to install a lot of add-ons in their browser, which may create additional dependencies and trouble. Some people - or some of these add-ons - may disable java, javascript, flash, silverlight, active-x, cookies, external fonts, third-party images, right-click functions, pop-up functions, resize-functions, and whatever else. If you have a good but not very common browser, like Pale Moon (=a Firefox derivation that has kept the old GUI-concept with menubar and statusbar), then this is often not recognised by the server. And then the server messes-up its webpages by *assuming* stupid things, for example that I have a micro-screen of 320x240 pixels instead of my real 1920x1080 pixels. So it sends me garbage instead of standard HTML: it sends fonts of 5cm high, so only a few lines fit on my huge screen. The bigger the organisation, and the more they are specialised in communication (e.g. news-sites and newspapers), the worse this gets, and the less they communicate. A lot of modern browsers even mess-up perfectly valid and simple standard HTML, which by design should reflow automatically in the available window. The browser should take the default font-settings if not specified, without changing them. But they don't. For example Google Chrome Mobile rescales some paragraph's font-sizes (sometimes making it larger, sometimes smaller), but not other paragraphs. And some browsers refuse to reflow text, so it falls off the screen. So you can't even limit yourself to old-school 1995's HTML and forms, because even these break today. You don't want that kind of trouble in a slicer GUI. Cloud-based computing is even worse: then you become dependent on a very unstable variable: the internet/network, coming with all its interruptions and its hazards (virusses, spyware, interception, industrial espionage...). It is unusable while moving (train, plane) or in remote areas: even Germany has no internet in lots of its eastern rural areas. And the data going over their monthly limit, and you going over your budget. Also, this creates GDPR and similar legal problems. So I prefer independent standalone applications installed on and running on the local computer. One application per function. Preferably with all user-settings stored in the same directory as the main program, or a subdirectory "user-settings". Not splattered all over the harddisk in unaccessible directories. So that it is portable. Although of course all programs should use generic and standard datafiles for smooth data-exchange. I am aware that my view may not be "politically correct", but this has proven to work best (for me).
  28. 2 points
    @shambam I follow the standard maintenance and clenaing procedures set by UM for my UM3E, worked like a charm so far. https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52604-clean-the-printer https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/52613-clean-the-feeders
  29. 2 points
    What do you mean with "it cannot use with Octoprint"? Because the Octoprint plugin is not working anymore? Cura itself cannot communicate with Octoprint, but there is a plugin to send sliced files to Octoprint. Normally the plugins have to be adopted for new Cura versions, so due to the fact that Cura 4.1 is beta, a working version of the plugin will be released latest when Cura 4.1 is released. But @ahoeben is normally faster than light and you will see a working version soon.
  30. 2 points
    Hello. Recently, I bought a Duet3d ethernet for my JennyPrinter3D (Ultimaker 2+ extended clone). I decided to change the original board, which was rubbish, for this one. It looks great and the webpanel is incredible. I am trying to configure the new board with reprap configurator but it is a little bit complicated. Could anyone share their parameters? It would be very helpfull. @Neotko I saw your video of Duet Connection in Youtube. It was very useful (me fue muy útil y está todo muy bien explicado). Regards!
  31. 2 points
    There is a plugin in the marketplace that puts the sidebar back in the semi old stile it was.
  32. 2 points
    My understanding is that there are many grades of aluminum but only MIC6 grade is flat and stays flat. But after you heat it and cool it for months it starts to warp. Worse than the glass. ALSO the aluminum wasn't for PLA or most other materials - only a few of the new materials work better on aluminum. I could be wrong about these things - I'm really not an expert. Ultimaker doesn't like to release something unless it works very very well and consistently. I think they have learned their lesson about announcing things early.
  33. 2 points
    Gr5 Not to be argumentative and yet; it is “highly” probable and very likely that the percentage of owners/end users and businesses active on this forum is a token percentage; who knows; maybe it’s 0.1% which would equal 100% based on your sampling. Furthermore; I personally speak with a couple USA distributors that without reservation share that they too have the same trouble getting element of urgency support as such attempt as able to satisfy the customer in house. Having shared this; I too feel that the Ultimaker Team is far less connected to the end user, particularly when there is an issue than they want all to believe.
  34. 2 points
    Right now, that's how Ultimaker Cura behaves. I have an alternative implementation of the wall gap filling in my Cura releases that doesn't shake your printer to death. My releases (which can be installed alongside the standard Cura) can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Sorry, only Windows and Linux are currently supported.
  35. 2 points
    +1 to the sidebar creator. The original UI was perfect in it's simplicity and functionality IMHO. The new one seems to be different for the sake of being different, and takes away space. This sidebar plugin is fantastic!
  36. 2 points
    Could a Z-hop be added on the first layer to the first extrusion point for both extruders and travels to the material change position? This would eliminate any risk of scratching in the larger movement area.
  37. 2 points
    It's not that hard to disable the perspective, all we have to do is re-implement the zoom bit. It's on the back log. I've direct all the requests I've seen about it to our product owner, but in the end, it's up to him to give it a high priority (or not of course).
  38. 2 points
    From the Cura source code: /*! * Outer polygons should be counter-clockwise, * inner hole polygons should be clockwise. * (When negative X is to the left and negative Y is downward.) */
  39. 2 points
    Installing 5.1.8 on the UM3 might brick your printer!!!! Don't try this. We are working hard to get the UM3 update working but this takes time to get stable for all situations.
  40. 2 points
    Used it as a large bore nozzle to compliment my AA 0.8. Really any materials would have sufficed so I left it up to people to arrive at their own conclusions. In this case, PLA. Edfit: What was accomplished was the use of the CC core as a large bore for other materials other than what UM has set it for. Oh yeah, and it does work in the UM3E even though it is listed as 'incompatible.'
  41. 2 points
    I was also going to suggest heat gunning the edges, before I read your last line above. :-) When making dental models 10 years ago, I also used a small but very hot heat gun for smoothing the edges. The trick was to apply *a lot of heat for only a very short time*, so a thin outer layer would melt immediately. But the heat would not be enough to distribute to the inside and melt the whole model. I used a gas burner heat gun with catalytic combustion (=producing just heat but no flame, due to a platinum catalyst), which could easily reach 600°C and more. It took a bit of getting used too: apply the heat for too long from a too big distance, and the whole thing would deform. Apply it from a too short distance, and it would burn and get brown or black, and start to cook and bubble. Apply not enough heat, and then you had to wait too long for any effect, so the heat would get inside, and the whole model would deform too. The balance was critical.
  42. 2 points
    I was able to make it to work! This is how the G-Code looks now: M140 S{material_bed_temperature} ;set bed temperature G28 ;home all axis M190 S{material_bed_temperature} ;wait for bed temperature M104 T0 S{material_print_temperature} ;set hotend temperature G29 ;auto bed leveling M109 T0 S{material_print_temperature} ;wait for hotend temperature Now my prints are more "productive" - instead of waiting for the nozzle and/or the bed to heat up, then home XYZ, then start to auto bed leveling; now it first heats up the bed (if it set to do it), in the same time it homes XYZ, and wait for the bed's target temperature. When the bed reaches to its temperatures, the printer will proceed to heat the nozzle and while the nozzle heats up, auto bed leveling is being executed. When the heating is all done, print starts.
  43. 2 points
    I only wish I had the neurons to process the breath of this discussion. You're clearly on a solid path to important change. Thanks for bringing that discussion here. Inspiring! Now, perhaps you can help me find a less discouraging way to explain to our maintenance and engineering staff how we signed out their airplane in perfectly good shape, but returned it broken.... There really is no good way to say, 'the lavatory flush needs repair' and 'have a good one' in the same sentence. J
  44. 2 points
    The model's walls are too thin. You have several options. One is to check "print thin walls" but how thin are your walls? For example a typical nozzle is 0.4mm wide. If the walls are thinner than that well the cookie cutter won't be strong enough anyway - it will be as bad as using paper for a cookie cutter. I recommend 1mm thick walls for a cookie cutter. A better option is probably to make the model solid with a top and bottom and then in cura tell it to do no top/bottom layers thickness 0 and zero infill and then cura can do it in one pass instead of two (prints twice as fast) and you can control the thickness of the cookie cutter in cura. Set line width and wall width to 0.6 for a thick strong cookie cutter or 0.4 for a thinner cookie cutter.
  45. 2 points
    Same here, colorfabb with a 0.6 (hardcore). no issues with clogging, and I went to 0.1 layers. As an aside, I found this material printed with almost invisible print lines, but as I was going to apply finish, I sanded it anyway, and sanding worked as expected for a softwood like pine. I did have to pay attention to infill pattern, wall thickness and print temperature, I was printing cylindrical items with a vertical hole for a lamp wiring shaft, and my first attempt had a weak layer band that fractured almost in a crystalline pattern around the narrowest portion of the print. Cura layer view was helpful in seeing what was going on, I had managed for a few layers in the fracture zone to create just wall layers that did not divide evenly by the line width and didn't really give enough time for the layer to cool. This area did declare itself visually with a darker band in the material, looked like wood that had been burned by a router bit. By increasing that zone just a little the band disappeared and a test to destruction more than met my strength requirements. I hope this helps! John
  46. 2 points
  47. 2 points
    As I said in the main thread, I have loads of these faces I can knock them out within two hours now, and a bunch of photos, but I didnt take a photo of all of them as i got bored of it. Here are a few, you get the jist, quick 1.5Hour plates, 6 per day, matt plates mean the solution needs boosting or replacing.....or something else.
  48. 2 points
    I'll let you know as whatever it is is out for delivery today.
  49. 2 points
    Il y a une super appli mobile pour calculer tout ça. C'est "Price my print" sur Android. Ça permets de créer des profils matériaux avec leur densité, coût au kg etc... Mais aussi de calculer l'amortissement de la machine en comptant le tarif de l'électricité, le pourcentage de perte, l'entretien de la machine, le profit rechercher. Voilà, si ça peut aider.
  50. 2 points

    Version 1.0

    632 downloads

    Make a design table lamp electronically controlled. Change the shape of the lamp and light intensity according to your mood. Ready for 3D print - microcontroller Arduino - stepper motor - Joystick control. Full story on http://www.3lobitprint.cz/en/flola.html
This leaderboard is set to Amsterdam/GMT+02:00
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!