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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/09/2019 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    Took me forever to do this. And it is still rougher than I would have liked. 3D concept rendering: Finished piece:
  2. 10 points
    Bath interferometers. I have made about 20 of these for people who use them to test their telescope mirrors. They are amazingly accurate and can do better than a $40,000 Zygo PSI optical tester. These can test to almost 1/1000 of a wavelength of light although having the mirror within 1/10 of a wave is more than good enough. Basically anything in the photo you suspect is 3d printed - is 3d printed. The screwdriver is not and the tripod that holds it is not. Everything else plastic is 3d printed. Mostly PLA, some parts on the interferometer itself are nylon as they need to bend. 3 nylon parts you can see in the zoomed in version - sticking up the highest (not the knob which is higher I suppose) is the nylon lens holder, the cube holder also and the mirror holder which has a spherical pocket that goes around that sphere on the post. I've made quite a few of these and I keep tweaking the design. The original design is not mine but got it from thingiverse.
  3. 9 points
    I am quite proud to announce that sometime this morning, someone was the 1,000,000th to download one of my plugins from the Marketplace! To celebrate, all my Cura plugins will be available today for the very special price of FREE! (oh, wait, they always are 😉). As always, some exciting updates are coming up.
  4. 9 points
    Hello! You may have heard stories about glass plate having one side which brings you slightly better adhesion compared to the other side, or perhaps you have experienced this first hand yourself. Allow me to provide you with some background information and some instructions to figure out which side you should be printing on and which side you should use if you want to add an adhesion sheet. The difference is first introduced during production. When our glass plates are being made, near the end of the production line there is a hardening process. During the hardening process, the plates float on a layer of tin and are heated from above. This creates a difference between the two sides. There are two main factors that ensure good adhesion to the glass plate: wetting and flatness. Wetting is the ability of a liquid to maintain contact with a solid surface. Lower surface tension means better wetting. The non-tin side (i.e. upside during the hardening process) has a lower surface tension than the tin side. Therefore the non-tin side is recommended to print on. If the sticker that is on your glass plate fell off, you can do a simple small test to identify which side is which by placing a drop of water on both sides of the glass. (Not at the same time though). The non-tin side, the side you want to be printing on, is hydrophilic and the water disperses. On the tin side, the water will form a droplet (this side is hydrophobic). If you want to use an adhesion sheet, it is recommended to stick it to this side. Hope this helps! Let me know below if you have any further questions!
  5. 9 points
    Thanks for the passion you brought to all the things you did over the years!
  6. 8 points
    Hey guys, long time no see here. First of all, I'm happy that the Mark2 community is still alive (and kudos to @tinkergnome for doing the support work!) So, here's a small project which addresses one of the weaknesses of the S5 design: Prints which require good cooling, particularly with PLA and/or of smaller size, are really not among its specialties ... Printing with core1 shows even worse results than with core2 and walls facing left generally suffer more. There are two main reasons for this. First, introducing radial fans with the UM3 was a good idea but their positioning was - at least in part - driven by design criteria instead of functionality aspects. Air doesn't come straight out of these fans but more like in a 45° angle. As both fans are sitting behind the nozzles, this is a good thing for the right one, which blows to the front, whereas the left fan mainly blows backwards to nirwana. Second, there's only minimum clearance underneath the print head. Air cannot reach the nozzle tips directly but has to be diverted, which creates back pressure and reduces air flow. As UM hardware designers still freak out when they make optimum use of space, I suppose 😜, there's literally no space left to change the setup. Like only 1-2 mm to the side walls during homing or nozzle switching. But I wanted these fans to throw more air to the place where it's needed. After two days of brain racking, I thought the design should make use of another dimension: time. The head has to change shape. fans are folding in and out left fan flipped upside down to direct the airflow to the front almost directly pointing to the nozzles replaces the bottom housing of the original head printing time (3 parts): 3 hrs time to mount: 15 min Part files will follow very soon. Stay tuned 🙂
  7. 8 points
    I was asked to implement the Schwarz P and Schwarz D TPMS infill patterns by a user who wishes to compare their properties with the already implemented Gyroid pattern. This I have just done and so I'm just letting people know in case anyone wants to give them a go. This is Schwarz P ("Primitive") and I don't think it is so good for general infill as it requires a lot of travels because each layer consists of a bunch of closed loops. This is Schwarz D ("Diamond") and, like Gyroid, each layer consists of wavy lines so it requires fewer travels. Both of these patterns have shallow slopes and so to get the best visual quality they should be printed using thin layers and fat lines (i.e. 0.1mm and 200% infill flow). A known issue is that the Connect Infill Lines setting doesn't work very consistently with these patterns. More work required, there. As ever, my Cura builds can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Please read the README.md file there. For more info on TPMSs, a good page is http://facstaff.susqu.edu/brakke/evolver/examples/periodic/periodic.html All feedback is welcome!
  8. 8 points
    Somewhere around 10:00 AM this morning (CET), the total number of downloads of plugins I've published to the Marketplace crossed the 500.000 mark: Statistically, it is most likely that it was someone installing the OctoPrint Connection plugin, but I have no means to see exactly. I am fairly proud of reaching this milestone, less than 2 months after Ultimaker celebrated 1 million downloads from the Marketplace, which itself was only launched a year ago. I'll do my best to continue to improve your Cura workflow.
  9. 8 points
    I printed this model last month..
  10. 7 points
    Don't worry. A lot of the people working at Ultimaker still have "the small guys / girls" at heart. Probably because most of them used to be on the other side before. So even if the recently announced products don't match up with the expectations of that part of the market, it's by no means an indication that we forgot about all the other parts.
  11. 6 points
    Ultimaker Cura has hundreds of configurable slicing settings in custom mode. If you mouse hover over a particular setting, a description of what the setting does will appear. You can also search for a particular setting using the search bar to get what you need quickly and easily. In an upcoming release, we've also made each setting's description searchable for more ease-of-use. @ghostkeeper has also made a plugin that you can download from the Ultimaker Marketplace that adds even more description to each setting. BUT: Are there settings names in Cura that you find confusing? Maybe"Spiralize Outer Contour" might be clearer to users if we added "A.K.A. Vase Mode" - Maybe you'd like to see more detailed descriptions for each setting? - Maybe you'd like to see some settings in a different category? - Maybe you'd like to see a completely new category? Give us your feedback in this thread and we'll consider it for future releases.
  12. 6 points
    I have created a plugin that lets Cura access HID mouse devices such as the 3Dconnexion Spacemouse. It's called RawMouse because the plugin interfaces directly to the raw device without the aid/hinderance of an operating system driver. It's not a sophisticated all-singing, all-dancing interface, it simply converts the HID mouse commands into the equivalent 2D mouse commands. It has been (vaguely) tested on Linux and Windows 10 and it should also function on MacOS (10.13 upwards). For a quick install, unzip the latest RawMouse.zip from https://github.com/smartavionics/RawMouse/releases into your plugins directory, connect your Spacemouse, and start Cura. The usual weasel words apply, it's supplied with no warranty, YMMV, etc. All feedback is welcome. Either comment in this thread or open an issue on the github page.
  13. 6 points
    In times of Corona and the call #stayathome, we thought we would become more self-sufficient to avoid shopping. So I had the following idea, where my Ultimaker S5 supported me a lot and, as always, provided me with very good services and results. You wouldn't believe how versatile such a 3D printer can be. But pictures say more than words: 1.) Set the bed temp to 27°C 2.) Put the bowl with the bread dough into the printer and let the dough rise for one hour 3.) Put the dough in a basket and let him again raise for some time: 4.) Final product after the S5 finished his work and before baking 5.) And here die final result after baking - perfect! I've always known that you can do a lot of things with a 3D printer, but I never thought it would be so versatile and can also be used for baking. 🙂 In this context, stay healthy and stay at home.
  14. 6 points
    I was looking into a way to occasionally print Ninjaflex or other real flexible materials (85A) There's no way you'll be doing that reliable with a bowden setup (ok, I've seen people using oil in the bowden but nahhh), so I compared a quick and dirty direct drive conversion on an Ultimaker2 head (tested on my DIY GO) and on the ultimaker S5 **** first a warning, Ultimaker does NOT want you to open the S5, it contains an open style high voltage power supply, so it's DANGEROUS!!!, also the electronics can be damaged and I'm pretty sure you loose your warranty. **** I used two materials for testing, Extrudr TPU Soft and Ninjaflex, both 85A. I used the regular feeder from the UM2+ , combined with a pancake stepper motor (LDO-42STH25-1404MAC#190920) this stepper is less than half the weight of the normal stepper. I had to cut some length of the shaft to make it fit. The stepper has a different # steps per rotation and as it's impossible to change the steps setting for the S5 on one feeder it needs compensation in flow (200% flow = 100%) Obviously the result is a crazy top heavy setup, but if you just want to print an occasional gasket it should be fine, specially since you need to print materials this flexible very slow (15 mm/s) anyhow. On an Ultimaker2 the extra weight is enormous, on the S5 not so much as it's very heavy already anyhow. The nice thing is you can see into the feeder so during testing it's easy to spot when the feeder can't cope if you try to speed it up to much. If something goes wrong it's mainly during the first few layers, so watch them... otherwise you'll spend a few minutes again taking the feeder apart... To validate the basic setup I printed regular PLA on both converted machines, to make sure the setup (including changed steps/flow due to different motor) was correct. On the UM2 head the ninjaflex was pretty easy to get working, i managed to print with constant and reliable extrusion using a 0.4 nozzle. The materials prints best around (I tested with 0.15 layers) Flow : 110-115 % (with feeder tension set to lowest point) Temperature : 210 c Speed : 15 to 20 mm/s The easiest way to test temperature and flow is by printing simple cilinders, foir the S5 you can use the "tune" menu to play with values on the fly. Getting ninjaflex to work on the S5 proved to be more difficult than on the UM2, at the same settings using an 0.4 mm nozzle prints failed all the time, it seems the CORE, is much more of a challenge that a UM2 setup. I blame the longer filament path, and the metal tube of the core. Only when I changed to the 0.8 nozzle and the CC0.6 I was able to get reliable results. My main S5 tests are with the CC0.6, atm my best results are with the following settings; The S5 levels pretty close to the bed, making every print fail at normal flow rates. Layer height 0,15 Initial layer height 0,25 Top/bottom pattern & Innitial layer pattern ; concentric (avoid lot's of small lines, head vibration) Innitial printing temperature/ innitial layer : 230c Printing teperature : 215c Skirt/Brim flow 140% (= realy 70%, due to the different stepper motor) Innitial layer flow 150% (= realy 75%, due to the different stepper motor) Flow 225% (= 2x the real flow, due to the different stepper motor) Print speed 15 mm/s Innitial layer speed, Skirt/Brim speed 10mm/s Cooling at 100%, start with 20% and let it rise over 10 layers) Turn off the flow sensor (in the settings menu) on the S5, as you're not using that feeder.. Conclusion, even if you eliminate the bowden, printing 85A flex on an Ultimaker S5 is still a bit of a challenge. The used feeder (UM2+UM3 model) and filament path are not ideal. But, usually if you make it past the first few layers, and have relatively simple prints that keep the flow going it's very well possible to print ninjaflex on the S5. I have not experimented a lot with it jet, but I also managed a simple test print using PLA for support on the 2th extruder. the hardware hack; The feeder plate mounts to 3 screws of the head, so you can leave one and the head will stay assembled during mounting. I made a little breakout plug for the left stepper motor on the back of the printer, so I can change between direct and bowden in just a few minutes. I just leave the black mounting plate on the head. In needed to make a hole in the bottom plate for the DIY extension cable. I isolated the plug with hot glue. some side notes; Cura can sometimes create fantastic vibrator g-codes, not nice with this heavy setup, so one thing you can do to prevent this is to change line fill to cylindrical fill, and check the layer preview. ninjaflex openRC wheel, printed on S5 extrudr TPU soft (85A just like ninjaflex) gasket, printed on S5 S5 stl's S5_FlexDirect.zip
  15. 6 points
    "Continuous, hassle-free 3D printing, like never before! " As you may have seen a new image appeared on our homepage this morning, exciting news! On September 24th we'll announce what big news we have been working on for you. Keep an eye our for more updates and feel free to speculate below!
  16. 5 points
    Printed a new air intake for my car. Has a bracket that screw onto the engine to secure it. Printed on the Ultimaker S5 in PA-CF and painted so it doesn't absorb oils and dirt.
  17. 5 points
    Hi, First off i really don't think swearing is needed when asking for help, you are wanting help so be nice to them that want to help. The changes it means are any custom edits you have made to the profile settings, so any settings listed under the "Customized" part, so in the case above its your Printing Temperature (Extruder 1). I personally use it alot, because i edit my settings for supports and cooling so as i swap between profiles for differnet quality or filament types it keeps all my edited settings so i don't have to keep editing them all the time. Then your last image is a setting to pick if you want it to ask you if you want to keep them when you swap between profiles everytime or to auto remove them or auto keep them. I have mine to don't ask becasue like i say i have custom support settings i use for everything.
  18. 5 points
    I certainly cannot comment on all your findings as some would require to be a firmware dev. But this information here might help to understand why things are as they are atm. 1 - The printer is waiting for the heated bed to cool down. As soon as it is cold enough to touch you get the "confirm removal" button and can finish the process. The background here is a legal one: the machine has to be safe so removal should not be allowed if there is a risk to burn your fingers. Safety is part of professionalism - whether we like it or not in specific cases. You can speed it up on your own risk: Nobody and nothing prevents you from opening the doors, remove the hot plate and insert a cold glass plate. 2 - A change from e.g. black to white filament or vice versa requires quite an amount of priming to ensure the old color is not mixed into the new print. Current firmware plays it safe here. Maybe Ultimaker will enhance it one day so it takes such things into consideration and offers specific priming amount (down to almost zero if the same material as in the last print is loaded). 3 - The top bar represents the various steps in a wizard. The actual progress bar of a certain step is shown in the lower half of the screen. 4 - I don't know how long you waited - the progress bars have some non-linearity sometimes. It could also be a bug in the firmware. However, I would recommend to switch the printer off, wait maybe 30s and switch it on again and check it again. This procedure is what I do after the first-time start-up wizard completed and after firmware upgrades. A proper re-initialization is certainly not a bad thing. 5 - see 4 6 - That looks to me as if loading and unloading of the material are available. If it does not work, there is a (bit ugly) work-around. Go to the printcore menu of the printcore in question and unload it. This triggers the material unload routine. But the printer is not in a good firmware state after this; you should reboot it. 7 - Double recognition of NFC tags indeed happens sometimes. A good way to avoid / minimize the issue is to put Ultimaker spools in such a way into the bay that it is close to its left edge - for all spools! 8 - Press on bay B and it should give you more information about what's wrong, no? 9 - I would not be aware of a background firmware update while the printer is actually doing something. Maybe you started firmware update while there was still filament loaded (your point 6)? It might be a good strategy to first fix an error before upgrading the firmware. 10 - Comparing the S5 Pro Bundle with a 2+ might not be a fair thing to do. Sure, both are Ultimaker 3D printers. But they are pretty different in terms of features and automatization. It's an old truth that a larger number of features usually gives a larger number of potential issues. Btw. I'm also often an impatient person. 😉 11 - Yes, booting the Pro Bundle takes its time and as mentioned on top I'm not a developer so I cannot tell you what exactly the printer is doing and why it takes that amount of time. If you are interested in this you can dump the logs on an USB stick and have a look at the boot-up entries there. I hope the above helps you and others to get the best out of the Ultimaker S5 Pro Bundle as it presents itself at the moment.
  19. 5 points
    Hi folks, I'm new to Cura, but after finally upgrading my OS (I use Ubuntu Linux) I found that Makerware is no longer offered for Linux, which means suddenly I couldn't drive the 3 Replicator 2's that I have. This gave me the push I needed to get into Cura as I'd heard such great things about it. The only problem is, is that it seems not many who use Cura have Replicator 2's, and the built in profile is for a Replicator 1 and needs some tweaking. Furthermore, the X3GWriter seems to want to detect it only as a Replicator 1, which has different numbers of steps per mm so all printed items were turning out a little bigger than they should have been. I've written a blog about it step by step for those in the same boat as me here: http://jessestevens.com.au/2019/10/20/configuring-cura-4-3-for-makerbot-replicator-2/ But to also make sure in case my blog disappears etc to help others I'll put the steps here: First up, I’m using it in Ubuntu Linux (18.04) so locations of files might need to be changed for your config files as needed. This is for Cura v4.3. Step 1: Set up your printer I chose Makerbot Replicator from the printers page, and made a couple of changes to the settings: xwidth: 225mm ydepth: 145mm xheight: 150mm build plate shape: rectangular origin at centre: yes heated bed: no heated build volume: no gcode flavour: makerbot I also renamed the machine name to “Replicator 2” just so I would remember. Step 2: Start and end GCode You’ll need some custom Gcode so here it is (picked from various places and organised after some testing). Start Gcode: ; — start of START GCODE – M73 P0 (enable build progress) ;this next line won’t work, but has the steps command M92 X88.8 Y88.8 Z400 E101 ; sets steps per mm for Rep2 G90 (set positioning to absolute) (**** begin homing ****) G162 X Y F4000 (home XY axes maximum) G161 Z F3500 (home Z axis minimum) G92 Z-5 (set Z to -5) G1 Z0.0 (move Z to “0”) G161 Z F100 (home Z axis minimum) M132 X Y Z A B (Recall stored home offsets for XYZAB axis) (**** end homing ****) G92 X147 Y66 Z5 G1 X105 Y-60 Z10 F4000.0 (move to waiting position) G130 X0 Y0 A0 B0 (Set Stepper motor Vref to lower value while heating) G130 X127 Y127 A127 B127 (Set Stepper motor Vref to defaults) G0 X105 Y-60 (Position Nozzle) G0 Z0.6 (Position Height) ; — end of START GCODE – End GCode: ; — start of END GCODE – G92 Z0 G1 Z10 F400 M18 M104 S0 T0 M73 P100 (end build progress) G162 X Y F3000 M18 ; — end of END GCODE – This of course all assumes you don’t have a heated bed (also makes sure it doesn’t send heated bed commands which make the machine complain). Step 3: Install X3G file converter Go to the “Marketplace” button at the top right of your Cura window and in the marketplace search for “X3GWriter” and install it. Restart Cura so that it comes live. Step 4: Modify X3GWriter so that it always detects “Replicator 2” There seems to be a problem with X3GWriter in that with the above setup it always detects the machine to be a replicator 1, which is a problem as they have different amounts of steps per mm. You’ll know this because if you have a Replicator 2 and you try to print an object, it’ll keep printing larger than it should be. I’m sure there’s another way to make it detect “Replicator 2” but in the mean time I just changed it to always be Replicator 2 as that is all I have. Locate your plugins folder – for me it’s in /home/username/.local/share/cura/4.3/plugins (where username is your username). Go into the X3GWriter folder (and again into it, it’s nested twice – the path for me is: /home/username/.local/share/cura/4.3/plugins/X3GWriter/X3GWriter/) Open “X3GWriter.py” with your favourite text editor. Be careful in here, it’s a python script so you want to use spaces, not tabs to indent, and indents matter. If you destroy it you may have to just remove the plugin and install it again. We’re looking for the line like this: return machine if machine in X3GWriter.known_machines else None Note again that it’s indented with spaces in front. Put a # in front of this line to comment it out so it doesn’t get read like this: #return machine if machine in X3GWriter.known_machines else None Now go to the next line, press space until you’re lined up with the line above and put in: return “r2” Save the file and close Cura, then restart it. If all is well, you’ll find you can now export files that will print properly and be read by your Replicator 2. If you find the X3G file option has disappeared from your list, then the plugin is broken. Check your syntax in the plugin file and try again. Is this a little hacky? Yes, and I realise it may not be for everyone, especially if you're working with multiple printers, but until I can find a way to pass along to X3GWriter to filter the output through a Replicator 2 profile, this has been the only way I've been able to make it all work. Funnily, using Cura has massively improved the reliability and quality of the printers and improved my faith in them again. It seems Makerware wasn't doing as good a job as I thought it was, and was leaving these older Gen4 printers behind a little with their slicing algorithms. I hope this has been useful for people like me that were pulling their hair out trying to make it happen - don't throw that printer away! Jesse
  20. 5 points
    Please use this subcategory for any questions regarding our online services. By posting here instead of in the Cura threads, chances are that the right people look at your question sooner!
  21. 5 points
    A user of my Cura builds asked about reducing the chance of resonance when printing areas of skin with short lines. I have therefore added a new setting "Avoid Frequency" that, when non-zero, specifies the resonant frequency to avoid. Skin, infill and support interface lines using the Lines and zig zag patterns that would be printed using hot end motion within +-/20% of that frequency will be slowed to move away from that frequency band. Here's an example showing the speed reductions in the narrow(er) skin regions... So if anyone uses a printer that has resonance issues and are willing to try out this feature, I would be grateful if you could give it a go and report back whether it is beneficial or not. Obviously, you will need to determine a suitable value for Avoid Frequency and that is going to be printer specific. It may be that my simplistic approach to just avoiding frequencies within 20% of the specified value is not good enough and it may require either a bandwidth setting adding or upper and lower frequency limits. As ever, my builds can be found at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0. Please read the README.md file there. All feedback is welcome. Thanks.
  22. 5 points
    Great work @cloakfiend ! Hope you woke up 🙂 yesterday i assembled my latest print and used some primer. Still needs to be sanded a little bit. After that painted and will get some epoxy.
  23. 5 points
    Some of my work for silicone mold making
  24. 5 points
    Hello community! Let me introduce myself. My name is Michiel van Rooijen, I am the new product owner for the Ultimaker.com website. I'm thrilled to find this section of the forum as I think it could be a great place for my team to start gathering feedback from the community in regards to our website. We've been hard at work creating new features - but our work is never done. Pretty soon we'll really start to look back and polish what we've made so far, and that's where we need your help. We are currently in the process of replacing some of the older pages. So expect me to be somewhat more active in this part of the community and in the meanwhile: feel free to use this thread to give us some first feedback on the different pages (such as our software pages, printer pages and our recently revamped learn section). Michiel.
  25. 5 points
    There are companies that take the open source, make changes and give these modified Cura versions to their clients, forgetting to share the changes. This does not make Cura any less open source, but it does make those companies arses.
  26. 5 points
    Way back in the day, Warren Publishing put out a set of black and white magazines. Creepy was one of those magazines and, the mascot was Uncle Creepy. Being the comics fan I am, plus having read the magazines when they were first released (yes....that old) I started this project a while back. This is the concept rendering: And, this is the beginnings of finishing the print. Still moving slow, but improving, so, if you like this, be patient as it has gazillions of parts to paint and assemble. All things printed, just need to be finalized. I had a large 5 sided plexi display case since it is much cheaper to not have them include a premade base. So, I designed the base for the print to sit on, but also let me create a nice 'show' base. This is the Base as it laid within the S5 buildspace. It is big, so it is on an angle. The white is the base and the beige part is a construct to minimize use of PVA. That stuff is expensive and difficult to print with. So, the less of it being used is always a plus. This shows the gap between the PLA construct and the base with just the tiny amount of PVA to deal with. This is the printed piece. I had to reload a material and that is why the divisions in colour. This is the painted base. I will probably do touch ups and refinement as time goes on. Now, for the walls and floor, it was just too big for a single print. This shows the breakup of the model into printable sections. This is how big: This is the main part sitting on the S5 Buildplate. This is the walls and floor assembled and primed sitting on the base. This is how the display case fits over the assembly. More to come as I finish pieces. I have no rhyme or reason for the order of things to be finished. For instance, I have painted a few small objects like the Coat of Arms shield. Not much, but, just out of order of parts finished to start building the piece of the whole.
  27. 5 points
    Uncle Creepy...that is 😁 Edit: I forgot one piece that probably nobody but me would miss, but it is really done now: Actually, the glue set up nicely and this is the finished project. I may do some odd touch-ups if I see anything really amiss. That thing is about 18.5 inches from bottom of base to top of display case. The lighting is a bit more natural this go around. And all buttoned up in the display case.
  28. 5 points
    I'm no longer responsible for the firmware at Ultimaker. As I left Ultimaker 2 months ago. Didn't make a huge fuzz about it. But I left to focus more on my family. The travel time to Ultimaker was no longer acceptable for me anymore. Also, I suggested to develop a feature to import/export network settings to a text file on USB to handle all "odd" configuration options. But it never got priority. And: connman enable ethernet Won't do anything, because the network managment service that is part of the firmware will disable it again, which is linked to the printer settings network configuration. So enabling cabled connection in the firmware menu, will enable the ethernet in connman.
  29. 4 points
    So let me get this straight. You have a five year old printer, so four years out of warranty. You modified it by attaching something it was not built for which caused it to fail and now you're pissed they don't give you a mainboard for free and spend time to figure out what broke when you messed around with it? Don't you see how unreasonable this is? You're also warning people not to post things that might show that you've broken your printer by misusing it so you can still abuse the warranty and get free parts for it?
  30. 4 points
    Hello there, do you also love Cura but sometimes get lost in all its beautiful settings? In our knowledgebase on Ultimaker.com we have dedicated many articles explaining how those settings work. So if you find yourself wondering how a certain setting works or if you just want to learn more about what Cura can do, visit this link; Cura settings explained. We put a lot of effort in writing these guides so let us know what you think! Looking forward to hear from you!
  31. 4 points
    Thank you for your many contributions. Cura would only be half as good as it is today without your plugins and the rest of the code. Please continue to surprise us with new ideas and plugins.
  32. 4 points
    thanks anthrix for your findings! to take things a little bit further, i did some work lately on this particular topic, and these are my findings so far: 1. have some freewheeling diodes added to the PWM outputs of the SKR V1.4 to avoid overvoltage damage to the output MOSFETs: bigtreetech-skr-v1-4-turbo-freewheeling-diodes 2. also, do _not_ use smoothing capactors on PWM outputs. this is simply bad practice that puts a lot of extra stress on the MOSFETs. instead, use proper PWM settings in your MARLIN configuration. 3. TMC5160 drivers should have stealthchop enabled, but _disabled_ through the printer's config menu. this reduces noise of the steppers. 4. it took me quite some time to figure out the basic settings in MARLIN 2.0.5.3 to make it cooperate with the skr1.4 and the UM2+. besides that, you need some extra hardware to properly connect the PT100 sensors and the hotend-fan to the board. see more details on my github: Marlin+SKR1.4+TMC5160+UM2plus
  33. 4 points
    Couple photos for now.
  34. 4 points
    So we received a jigsaw puzzle from my wife's twin sister to work on while self isolating. She did advise us that she thought there was a piece missing, and sure enough there was. With that as a challenge, I photographed the missing piece of the puzzle, brought it into SolidWorks and vectorized it using "Sketch Picture", extruded it to 0.080" (2mm) sent it to Cura and in turn sent to my UM3. My wife then painted it to perfection and "Voila" the lighthouse was restored. Now I'm just looking for the next project.
  35. 4 points
    Wanted a power socket on my TONONE reading light. So I made one. Colorfabb color on demand PLA. Added a little piece of ninjaflex for friction against rotation.
  36. 4 points
    So with a bit of modding cable for screen all working with skr 1.4 and ultimaker 2 controller screen, led, buzzer, sd card also working fine. Running marlin 2.0.x. Couple more bits and 32bit Ultimaker up and running.
  37. 4 points
    People kept badgering me to add this feature (https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/gradient-infill-for-3d-prints) but I'm not yet convinced it's a good idea. Anyway, it's been a rainy weekend here so I had to do something. Here's an example of what it does... Notice how the infill that's away from the walls is thinner than the infill that's close to the walls. If you want to try it, you can find the builds at https://www.dropbox.com/sh/s43vqzmi4d2bqe2/AAADdYdSu9iwcKa0Knqgurm4a?dl=0 Please, please, please, read the README.md file that's there before using any of my builds and do make backups of your configurations, profiles, project files, etc. before you try it out. All feedback is welcome, either here or at https://github.com/smartavionics/Cura/issues
  38. 4 points
    I was talking about the other points in the original post, not the Cura crashes. But it’s hard to keep track with so many different types of issues in a single thread. With regards to Cura crashes, it would be best to submit an issue on the GitHub repo of Cura with log files attached. Otherwise the devs cannot debug your issue.
  39. 4 points
    Hi everyone! My name is Lucas Baronzini, I am from Buenos Aires, Argentina. I work for Altana3D which is an additive manufacturing company that offers solutions for both medicine and dental applications. We actually own 8 Ultimaker 3 Extended that we use specifically for biomodeling and prequirurgic design/planning. We also, as a side business, provide 3d printing servicies for other areas. Thank you! www.altana3d.com @altana3d
  40. 4 points
    Sadly it failed. Have no idea why. I need to hit up some time lapse forums. Instead of 14000 photos. I have 1 folder of 0001-2170 and another folder of 8999-9999 so upset and gutted. It would have looked so cool. Either way ill speed up what I got but the magic happens at the start. Last frame. I don't even have the first..... what a dumb system. I've been f-ing and blinding for the past 30 mins. So annoyed. Oh well. Bugger.... Hold up... its weird... I actually think I have it somehow? But 1 photo every 15 secs is 4 per min and thats 240 per hour......for 15 hours....thats 3600, I'm such an idiot. I some how calculated 900 photos per minute and expected to find like 14000? Whatever it worked!!!! Yay! Don't think the last few hours added anything but I guess ill find out. First photo, after acid (re-positioned and de-focused a touch as predicted) photo, and last photo. Video will be tomorrow. I'm working at 5am tomoz!
  41. 4 points
    Bronzefil @.15mm , PVA support. S5.
  42. 4 points
    I ran into the same problem. This did the trick, for me: Make sure there is no cura.exe process running, by looking in Task Manager (or just rebooting to be sure). Go into .../AppData/Roaming/cura/4.4 (or whatever version you are running) Delete cura.lock, if it is there. If it is not there, and Cura is not running, then this isn't the problem for you. There is no risk, at all, in deleting that file. It gets created at runtime and is really only valid while Cura is running. If it doesn't get deleted when Cura exits, it will cause the package manager to hang. Hope this helps.
  43. 4 points
    I would really like to know where you find that scientific experiment. I agree that the press isn't the most trustworthy source of knowledge. And I will not disagree that plants need CO2 to grow. But claim that we can solve all our problems by emitting more CO2 I find hard to agree on.
  44. 4 points
    Looks like he's undergone quite a bit of plastic surgery while he was gone...
  45. 4 points
    Superhero's never die... ** early "Mark2" dual print...
  46. 4 points
    🤣🤣 These two guys popped into mind when I read that. I know...I know...I am old. This is a better pic. B.O.B is the one on the right....
  47. 4 points
    Today I printed 600 grams of PETG scrap... Miscalculated how much was on the roll and found the printer printing 5 mm in the air this morning. Made a label to show approximate length remaining so I hope this was the last time. ( Rounded the values so it might look some irregular)
  48. 4 points
    WARNING: The website, www.3dlac.nl does not belong to our company and we have no link whatsoever, there have been customers who have told us that they have bought there and do not send anything. we have communicated to the web, the possible crime that they are committing by using a registered trademark, in addition to defrauding users. We are going to take the appropriate legal measures JOSE ANGEL CASTAÑO CEO 3DLAC
  49. 4 points
    I think I figured it out. Cura 4.0.0 now has a new feature where you can select different number of cooling fans. I looked at the gcode exported from cura 3.4.1 and the gcode from cura 4.0.0. I noticed the M106 command was exported as M106 S255 P1. I compared this to the gcode exported from cura 3.4.1 which just had M106 S255. I first tried to modify the gcode to have M106 S255 P0, AND THAT WORKED Later in my investigation I noticed in the "Machine Settings" under "Extruder 1", there is a new setting called "Cooling Fan Number", by default it was set to 1, hence the "P1" reference in the gcode. Change the option under "Cooling Fan Number" from 1 to 0. After that I saw cura exported the gcode as before M106 S255. I popped in sd card and it seemed to solve my issue. I am sure maybe in the Marlin configuration you could change the fan number as well but this seemed to fix my issue. Hope this helps!
  50. 3 points
    The plugin is now available from the Marketplace.
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