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Marrit

Team UltiMaker
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Posts posted by Marrit

  1. Also, on the XY offset chart...

    16 comes AFTER 15, not before it. How do you get 16 between 15 and 10? How have these things not been checked before printing?

    chart.thumb.jpg.e6305e4ac7c607fe2771993c4b09e942.jpg

    And also this is confusing at first:

    WWW.thumb.png.4426121d2c2c7d5d41952b2bd3be0946.png

    That printout actually makes no sense until you read the manual and see that the glass plate needs to be removed.

     

    I guess that is still an old version of the XY offset sheet. This is the latest correct version :)

    • Like 1
  2. I'm not sure if she has researched that, but I think it's always good to cover the wires to protect them from the vapours.

    Btw, the documentation is already online! You can read the vapor treating tutorial here.

    During the Ulti-evening we also discussed water marbling, but since we're still exploring this we don't have a guide yet. This might come later on when we have some more experience :)

    But if someone would like to try it, you can basically follow the steps below the create something like this:

    IMG_3582.thumb.JPG.d7d394396a46d11e837476c2c20cfecf.JPG

     

    1. Fill a bucket with water and shake the spray cans for at least 2 minutes
    2. Put on your gloves and spray the colors after each other in the water for at least 3 seconds per color
    3. Marble the water with a skewer or pencil when the paint is still liquid
    4. Gently push your print through the layers of paint
    5. Allow the paint to set under water for at least 1 minute
    6. Clear away all the paint that is floating on the water
    7. Take the print out of the water and let it air dry for at least 1 minute before setting it to dry completely (2 hours)

     

    IMG_3582.thumb.JPG.d7d394396a46d11e837476c2c20cfecf.JPG

    • Like 1
  3. first impression:

    first opening-select your printer --> Ultimaker Original: by default only the dual extrusion upgrade box is ticked. Should it be the opposite by default only the extruder driver upgrade?

     

    Yes, I agree with you since all new printers have the extruder drive upgrade by default. It should be easy to change for our developers I guess ;)

  4. The last weeks we've been working hard on improving the new Cura 15.06. It is the foundation on which we continue to build. Today we've released an open beta version (15.10), ready for you to explore. You can download it here.

    If you are interested, we would like to invite you to use this beta version and give us feedback so together we can prepare this build to be included in the full version.

    We’ve included five features that were already in Cura Legacy, so you can use these in the new Cura 15.10. There are also seven entirely new features, developed in our quest to continue improving Cura. Check the release notes to find out what has changed and let us know what you think.

    In addition, we want to let you know that a few features still need some fine-tuning (mostly graphical). We included them in this beta anyway, so you can already test the functionality:

     

    • Post-Processing Plugin: Graphical layout is bare-bones, not all scripts are fully tested.
    • Support for Bed Leveling and other wizards: Graphical layout is bare-bones, not all error cases are handled correctly (but it shouldn't cause crashes).
    • Visualization of the Per-Object Settings: Graphical layout has some mistakes in it.

     

    Throughout the testing period we will continue to develop and process the feedback. All in all you can expect improvements on these features in the upcoming weeks. We will then also have a 64-bit Windows Build available for you.

    To collect all the feedback we ask you to post everything in this forum topic. We will keep a close eye on it and make sure that your feedback will reach our developers.

    Thank you very much for contributing and enjoy this version of Cura!

  5. The last weeks we've been working hard on improving the new Cura 15.06. It is the foundation on which we continue to build. Today we've released an open beta version (15.10), ready for you to explore. You can download it here.

    If you are interested, we would like to invite you to use this beta version and give us feedback so together we can prepare this build to be included in the full version.

    We’ve included five features that were already in Cura Legacy, so you can use these in the new Cura 15.10. There are also seven entirely new features, developed in our quest to continue improving Cura. Check the release notes to find out what has changed and let us know what you think.

    In addition, we want to let you know that a few features still need some fine-tuning (mostly graphical). We included them in this beta anyway, so you can already test the functionality:

     

    • Post-Processing Plugin: Graphical layout is bare-bones, not all scripts are fully tested.
    • Support for Bed Leveling and other wizards: Graphical layout is bare-bones, not all error cases are handled correctly (but it shouldn't cause crashes).
    • Visualization of the Per-Object Settings: Graphical layout has some mistakes in it.

     

    Throughout the testing period we will continue to develop and process the feedback. All in all you can expect improvements on these features in the upcoming weeks. We will then also have a 64-bit Windows Build available for you.

    To collect all the feedback we ask you to post everything in this forum topic. We will keep a close eye on it and make sure that your feedback will reach our developers.

    Thank you very much for contributing and enjoy this version of Cura!

    This post is for communication purposes. If you want to contribute and leave your comments please go to this (similar) thread.

    • Like 1
  6. Thanks for the extensive description! I think that pretty much covers yesterday's presentation and concept of the new Cura.

    The ideas for improvements you mentioned are very valuable to us. As explained, the new Cura is just the start of a new software platform, which we can easily add features to based on what the user wants.

    The time vs quality slider in the Simple mode is basically added to let people get familiar with the software/slicing. But as you mentioned it could be interesting to see if it's valuable to add different settings on such a slider, so that you have a little more control over the process.

    I also see your point of focusing on the end result rather than on all the settings and terms independently. As discussed yesterday it could especially be beneficial to new users to see what happens with their print when they change certain settings. This is something that could be interesting to look into, but will require quite some time to develop.

    If anyone has ideas on how things like this could look/work or has completely different ideas on what you would like to see in this new Cura we would be happy to get this information. This way we can look into the possibilities of adding such functionalities as we will further develop Cura in the upcoming months :)

  7. Thanks for sharing Didier :)

    And the reason for the silent fan could be a new revision of the main board I think, through which the fan speed can now be controlled. Not sure if it has been implemented completely already though.

    If the fan is very noisy, you can best contact support as Sander already mentioned.

  8. There are a few error messages that could show up while using your Ultimaker Original+. If you ever happen to get one of these errors, you can easily follow the instructions below to troubleshoot the issue.

    Make sure to always turn the Ultimaker Original+ off and disconnect the power supply before troubleshooting these errors.

     

    Mintemp or Maxtemp error

    This refers to a problem with the PT100 B sensor, which is the sensor that measures the temperature of the nozzle. It means that the sensor registers incorrect values and due to safety reasons it will prevent the nozzle from heating up. If you get a MINTEMP error the Ultimaker Original+ registers a too low temperature (< 5°C), while a MAXTEMP error suggests a too high temperature (> 300°C). The most likely reason for this is connection problem, which could either happen due to a bad connection at the main board or damage of the sensor itself.

    To check if there is a bad connection on the main board you will have to take a look at the bottom of the Ultimaker Original+:

     

    • Place the Ultimaker Original+ on its side so you can reach the bottom side and remove the wooden electronics cover.
    • Now you will see the main board. Look for the sensor cable (the white cable with three thin red and white/grey wires at the end), which is connected to 'TEMP1'.
    • Make sure the cable is connected and check if none of the thin wires has come loose.

     

    Still not working? This probably means that the sensor itself is damaged. To verify this you could measure the resistance with a multimeter. It usually should be approximately 108 Ohm at room temperature, but when it is broken the result will either be (close to) 0 or infinite. This means that a new sensor needs to be placed on your Ultimaker 2.

     

    Mintemp or Maxtemp error bed

    This error refers to a problem with the sensor of the heated bed. It means that the sensor registers incorrect values and due to safety reasons it will prevent the heated bed from heating up. If you get a MINTEMP error BED the Ultimaker Original+ registers a too low temperature, while a MAXTEMP error BED suggests a too high temperature. The most likely reason for this is connection problem, which could happen due to a bad connection on the heated bed or main board, or damage of the sensor itself.

    The connections at the heated bed can easily be verified by checking if the sensor wires are well secured. These are the two thin wires connected to the screw terminal at the back of the heated bed. Gently pull them to see if none of the wires is loose. If one of them is loose you will have to remove the heated bed so you can reconnect the wires.

    To check if there is a bad connection on the main board you will have to take a look at the bottom of the Ultimaker Original+:

     

    • Place the Ultimaker Original+ on its side so you can reach the bottom side and remove the wooden electronics cover.
    • Now you will see the main board. Look for the heated bed sensor cable, which is the one connected to 'TEMP3' and check if it is properly connected.

     

    Still not working? This probably means that the heated bed sensor is damaged or that there is a bad connection on the heated bed itself. In order to resolve this issue we recommend replacing the heated bed. You can get in touch with our support department for checking the possibility of sending you a new heated bed under warranty.

     

    Heating failed

    The heating failed message means that the Ultimaker Original+ is unable to heat up the nozzle. When you get this error message you will probably have a flashing UltiController display as well.

    The reason for this heating problem is most likely a bad connection. Therefore you need to take a look at the heater cartridge cables; they are connected to 'HEATER1' on the main board. It is advised to take them out and reconnect them in order to be sure about a proper connection.

    If the error still appears after having checked the connections, it could mean that the heater cartridge itself is damaged. Our support team would be more than happy to give further assistance.

  9. If Cura doesn’t recognize your Ultimaker Original+ when you want to upload firmware, there is a problem with the connection due to software or hardware failure. By following the steps described below you can easily figure out why it doesn’t work and get it working again.

     

    Check the connections

    First of all, the connection issue could simply be caused by a physical connection failure.

     

    • Make sure the Ultimaker Original+ is connected to the power supply and turned on when uploading firmware.
    • Check if the USB cable is properly connected and if possible try another USB cable to rule out a failure of the USB cable.

     

     

    Software

    Another possible reason for the connection failure is a bug in Cura or problem with your computer or Operation System (mainly with older versions). Therefore it is advised to check upon the following points:

     

    • Check if the latest version of Cura is installed on your computer.
    • Try connecting on a different computer, preferably with a different Operation System.

     

    If neither of the above described options to establish a connection works for you, there is possibly a bug on the main board. In this case, please get in touch with your local support department for further assistance.

  10. When you're experiencing difficulties with prints sticking to the build plate, there could be a few things going on. It could either mean that the first layer just doesn't stick well enough or that the prints gets loose due to "warping" of the plastic. Warping basically happens because of the properties of the plastic. Plastics have the tendency to shrink when cooling down fast (some plastics more than others), which could eventually lead to your print curling up (at the corners). You will especially notice this behaviour when printing ABS, which has a relatively big shrinkage.

    There are a few things you could do for a good first layer of a print and to reduce the amount of warping.

     

    Heated bed temperature

    With a heated bed, using the correct bed temperature is important for good adhesion. This way you ensure that the first layer of the print doesn't cool too much, due to which it could shrink a lot. A temperature of 60°C is recommend for PLA while ABS needs a temperature of 90°C. The default settings in Cura should be fine for this, but you can always play a bit around with it.

     

    Bed leveling

    For printing it is very important that the first layer is nicely squished into the glass plate and sticks well to it. If the distance between the nozzle and build plate is too big, your print won’t stick properly to the glass plate. On the other hand, if the nozzle is too close to the build plate it can prevent the filament from extruding from the nozzle.

    In both cases this will lead to a bad first layer, which might eventually lead to adhesion problems. Make sure to [link-topic=184]re-level the build plate[/link-topic] if you're experiencing this issue.

     

    Glass plate

    For good adhesion it is important that the glass plate is either completely [link-topic=191]clean[/link-topic] or that glue is applied to the glass plate. For PLA it's not necessary to use glue, although it's recommended when printing bigger objects. When using ABS, it's advised to always have a thin layer of glue on the glass plate.

     

    Using a "Brim"

    A nice feature in Cura to help preventing warping is called "Brim". It will place a single layer thick flat area around your object, thus creating a bigger adhesion surface. The Brim can easily be removed once the print has finished.

    This option can be selected when using the Full settings in Cura. You can find it at "platform adhesion type" in the basic settings tab.

    • Like 1
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