somerwil

Printer's sold! Thanks very much!

Hi guys, I'm wondering where I can find the Ultimaker Original + lasercut files? They might be exactly the same as the Original (without the +) but can someone please confirm this? Thanks anyway, Michael

Machine reserved

Hi, The UM2 is still for sale. I live in the Hague (Den Haag in Dutch) so that's probably one of the most far away places from Germany... Anything I can do to convince you? Greetings, Michael

Sorry I didn't reply within an hour and a half :oops: . Your PM was answered minutes ago.

Hi guys, after a lot of thought and considering I decided to sell my Ultimaker 2. The machine was delivered in December 2013 and it works absolutely great! Price: €1.600 Shipping: not included in the above price. For more information and photos, please send a personal message. Thanks for reading. Michael

PM found and replied.

I decided to go with Youmagine only for my R2-D2 model because I also want to support the Ultimaker team and Youmagine. The amount of downloads and likes on Youmagine is nowhere close to Thingiverse but honestly I don't really care that much about that since I'm not considering making profit from my models. I noticed there's a "I printed one" button on Youmagine now. Perhaps it's been there for ages but honestly I just noticed it :-) Cool! One thing I would really recommend is a better method to just browse through the models. With only 9 models on one page just browsing around is not much fun.

Hi, I'm selling my 750 gram spool of Colorfabb's Woodfill. It still has 749,9 grams on it. Reason for selling is it blocked my nozzle during the first centimeters of extrusion. It was a pain to solve this problem and I lost confidence in printing it. So if you feel confident printing with it or if you want to try it yourself this is a bargain. New spool on Colorfabb's site: €48,40 excl. shipping. My spool: €38,- excl. shipping. I'm in the Netherlands - the Hague. Regards, Michael

Hmmmm, I feel a little uninformed here. Have I missed something or is this one of the 'things you should know'? On the Colorfabb's site it says 0,4mm nozzle size so that's either wrong of misleading. I'm not considering drilling my UM2's nozzle to a wider diameter for now. Too happy it's working fine now (and making awesome prints!). I think I'll sell my Woodfill spool (with 749,9 grams on it ;-)) so if anyone is interested, please PM me. I'm in the Netherlands.

Hi there, thanks for the tips again. The easy method didn't work for me but after disassembling the print head and doing the trick (heating up, push PLA in, cooling down to 90 degrees) a few times worked for me. It was some work and since the Woodfill gave a lot of mess in the nozzle I had to do this trick for about 5 times to get rid off all the black sticky stuff. Happy it's printing again! :cool: If there are so many people encountering problems on clogging, I would advice the Ultimaker team to come up with the best solution and place a video of the recommended method on their site/ Youtube/ whatever. Or is there any available yet? Other question: Is printing in Woodfill difficult? As in: does it block the nozzle frequently? Perhaps my temperature setting for this material was wrong (230 degrees). What's a good temp for Woodfil?

Hi there, after some initial problem I got some very, very nice prints from the Ultimaker 2! It finished some marathon prints last week resulting in a http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:164317 at 0,05mm. It looks awesome and the two pieces come together nicely. After these print I changed the material (Colorfabb's Woodfill). I wish I didn't... The material change was OK, material was flowing nicely without problems but during the first print, things went wrong. On the first layer I could see just a few normal lines but extrusion stopped pretty soon. The temperature was quite high at that moment (250) to see it the material gets through. I also choose a rather thick layerheight at 0,2mm. Now, no matter what material I try to print or at whatever temperature I select, nothing comes through the nozzle anymore. I tried to go back to the Loggerhead's color and also tried a new spool. That, like I expected, didn't give any good results. What's the best way to get rid of the nozzle jam?

This problem is now solved. The screws needed to be tightened and the pulley was rubbing the short belt. Two fails of the Ultimaker's assembly team in my opinion but I'm very happy it's working now! I've made some very nice prints so far but now my nozzle seems blocked...

I started a print tonight, same gcode, same machine, tightened screws and an XY acceleration of 3000mm/sec. It's printing fine so far. Fingers crossed.

Hi, thanks for the advice again! I've done a few other prints of which two succeeded and one fail due to this problem. I checked the belts again and also checked all screws. I must admit I missed one screw the first time! It was the screw in the pulley on the short belt of the X-axis which is a seperate pulley. The Y-axis pulley is a one-piece pulley so there's a difference which I didn't notice the first time. My bad... :oops: . It's tightened now. I also noticed some black 'sparks' on the bottom of the machine behind the cover. These seem to come from my belt since there were also a few on the motor itself. I moved the motor's pulley as far towards the motor as possible without it touching the motor. Furthermore the X-axis runs as free as the Y-axis when moved by hand. Tomorrow attempt nr. 3-4 to solve this nasty problem. PS: Where can I set the XY acceleration? :oops: Is that in Cura?

Even though I had some good prints in the meantime the curving problem returned. The file is on Thingiverse - it's the head part of the loggerhead sea turtle http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:164317/ This print is supposed to be symmetrical but obviously it isn't... I think something is wrong with the steppers since I checked everything mechanical. Should I send a support ticket? Or are there other thing I may check? Michael

Hi Michiel, thanks for the adress! I'll send it soon. Will think of a nice location in the Hague to make the picture ;-) Michael

I got the vertical white covers off and checked all the set screws in all the pulleys. Also checked belt rubbing (none detected) and relubricated the bars. I could easily give most of the set screws approx. 1/16 - 1/8 turn. That's quiet a lot I think so I also checked the other, easy to reach screws of the machine. I could give most of the outside screws (that keep the body together) a few turns without getting the feeling to strip the thread. Particularly the acrylic side plates were mounted very poorly. It's printing again now (not the Eiffel tower ;-)). Fingers crossed. Will give an update anyway.

Hi, after some problems with the UM2 I'm now printing for a few days. Did some good print with it which made me very happy. :grin: Of the initial problems there's one remaining: let's call it "Layer curving". I had this problem on two prints so far (at least where I could see it ). First part was R2-D2's bottom leg part. This was previously analyzed by gr5 and illuminarti. They suggested it may have something to do with either material shrinking in combination with infill or the belts being too loose. Good suggestions so I did get some extra tension on the short belts to prevent this effect. I need to adjust the design of R2's part to optimize the shrinking effect but that's something on the list. Today I started a completely different print: the Eiffel Tower. Alright, a bit ambitious but I wanted to give it a go. :oops: The Ultimaker did pretty well up to the top of the arches. As far as I know, the Eiffel tower is symmetrical but when you look (not even) close to the picture you can see the layers are 'curved' to the right. This is clearly visible from the top of the arch layer and up. I could also see this effect on the first few layers of the print but it wasn't too bad there so I kept the print going. The picture was taken approx. 11 hours into the print and I stopped the print because of this issue. I can think of some things resulting in these issues but these are rather complex to solve. Anyone? Thanks for reading! Michael

Hi LePaul, great to find your R2 page! I made the 3D R2-D2 from blueprints and images found on the internet and gave my own interpretation where needed ;-). I also printed R2 on 0,2mm layer height this summer, scaled 50% of the intended size. Pictures can be found in my album http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/gallery/album/402-r2-d2/ Cheers, Michael

I printed mine today! Were can I send the printed part to? Still need to make a picture of it ;-)

I've been ill for a day and a half but back in business! With the tips of gr5 and illuminarti I got the extrusion going without problems. I recalibrated the platform and removed the excessive amount of glue. My guess the problem I had ealier on were mainly glue related with the nozzle picking up glue from the platform an with that blocking it. I also whiped the nozzle from the outside with a needle. It's working fine now! I also tensioned the short belts a bit to prevent the curving. I think this is a shrinking issue though so I think I might resedign the part a bit. It's a part of R2-D2's leg by the way :smile: Yes, I did design that myself but I was already thinking of redesigning to make it lighter to save printing time. If you're interested, R2's on Youmagine.(https://www.youmagine.com/designs/r2-d2) Another good tip was to bring down the print speed. I now print at 30mm/sec (Cura setting) at 225 degrees. Basically I now print with Illuminarti's settings which I found on his wonderful blog, everyone should check it at: http://www.extrudable.me/ Here are his illuminarti's settings to Cura/ the UM2 to get wonderful prints: Retraction distance 5.5mm (in UM2's Tune menu) Retraction speed 35mm/s (in UM2's Tune menu) Print speed to 30mm/sec Upped the travel speed to 250mm/s (in Cura on the Advanced tab) Disabled the ‘Combing’ feature (in Cura's expert config) Minimum travel distance at just 1mm (in Cura's expert config) Minimum extrusion between retractions to 0 (in Cura's expert config) Brim line amount to 20 Combine everything (Type-A) enabled Skirt line count to 0 (since I use Brim on all my prints) I always use the Brim support option. This has two advantages for me: It gets the extrusion going Better adhesion to the platform Now on with the printing! Bring it on! :smile: Last but not least: Thanks very much gr5 and illuminarti! Without your tips and advice I would probably still be struggling.

Hi there again! Thanks for replying guys. I really appreciate the help. It's good to know the UM2 needs a higher temperature. Nevertheless I stil have issues with the extrusion and made a few video's of it and placed them on Youtube. I forgot to speak when making the movie :wink: Here's video 1 - a simple print of one of the gcodes that came with the UM2 on the SD Card. I basically just turned the power on, and hit print. Here's video 2 - the back of the machine with the extruder mechanism. It shows the skipping of the PLA When uploading these video's I started another print again. It's the same red PLA like in the video. The first few layers were horrible again and I changed temperature setting (up to 260) and the material flow (up to 110%) but still with bad extrusion. There was some flow, like in the video, but not enough to make good layers. After a while it started printing normally again! I could even change the settings back to normal (220 and 100%) and whithout ruining the extrusion flow. After a few nice layers it started skipping the material again. :sad: Besides the extrusion problem, there was the non-90-degrees issue of which I made pictures and tried to share them before. I now placed these in the "My media" on this forum (I found the button :wink:) so I hope everyone can see them now.

Hello guys, thank you very much or your quick reply! Sorry to ask so much in one post but there's an answer to most of my questions. I started printing today and checked the 3rd fan and some other things. The 3rd fan is working correctly so no problem with that. To try to solve my extrusion problem I switched back to the white PLA again since that color didn't give me troubles so far. When printing the same gcode is also had problems with the extrusion now... It might be that it doesn't really like 0,3mm layer thickness. With the tips as described above, I went through the "Tune" menu and found the temperature settings. Bringing the temperature up (from 220 to 240 degrees) my extrusion problem is now gone! The machine is working extruding fine now. Very happy with that. From my Ultimaker Original experiences, 240 degrees is rather high. The same white PLA printed just fine on 210-215 degrees on the Original. Are these common figures with the UM2? I also made a few pictures of question 2) to make it more clear [PICTURE LINKS DIDN'T WORK, PLEASE SEE BELOW] Thanks again. Michael

Hi guys, After I sold my Ultimaker Original I finally received my Ultimaker two days ago and started printing right away. It seems something is wrong with my machine and I have a few questions... Hope someone wants to help me out. First my biggest concern. The extrusion on the machine is not a constant flow. Some layers seem to be just fine while other have under extruded parts resulting in a not so nice finish of the shell but also a weak print due to bad layer adhesion. I printed a full plate of the Bubblox brick by Gijs (https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bubblox). 15 brick turned out to fit the platform so I decided to give it a go. Cura decided to print these bricks one by one. Out of these 15, only 5 were printed OK, 5 had flaws but are usable and the other 5 kind of only looked like the wanted brick but I could easily break the part by hand. Some layers in these brick simply didn't print well since the extrusion seems to jam somewhere/ stop. I get the idea that the first bricks where better than the bricks the machine printed later on. The print took approx. 7 hours. Next thing I did was to print another part and it started with bad extrusion on the fourth layer or so. I stopped the print when I saw it was not going well. Also useful information to find a solution might be that I also had some problems with the extrusion part during the setup step of the machine. On the point where I should wait for the extrusion to come out of the head I waited and waited but no extrusion... The motor runs and the material loading process seems to be going OK but when the material should exit the nozzle the motor sort of skipped. I could see the material feeder bolt bouncing back after too much pressure was put on the PLA. Not knowing what to do at this point I decided to push the button and hoping to get the extrusion going later on. That magically turned out to work when starting a first print. Last thing: So far I printed the yellow PLA of Ultimaker (with the problems described above) and some even older white PLA of Ultimaker. On that white print I can see no weird extrusion at all. So far my biggest problem, help is needed! Now a few questions: I noticed my X-axis timing belt on the motor side was pretty loose so I tightened is a bit. No problem but when doing that I nearly burned my fingers. The motor was really, really hot. I checked the Y motor also. It was a bit less warm but I couldn't get my fingers on it or more than three seconds. Is that normal? Is it likely my extrusion motor runs too hot resulting in bad extrusion? On my white print (the second print I did) I tried to make a square cube. It did print fine (no extrusion problems) but it isn't exactly 90 degrees. It seems a bit 'curved' when looking at the part from the front of the machine. Can this be caused by the X-motor belt being too loose? I tightened the belt to prevent this but perhaps something else is wrong here. I miss the temperature seting in Cura... How can the one of the most important figures be removed from the program? It's not even available from the expert settings anymore. What's the best way to fully clean the glass platform to get rid of the glue? When starting a new print it seems my extrusion gets going a little too late to print the first layer correctly. This may be caused by my extrusion problem but perhaps the startup gcode needs a larger value for the startup extrusion time. Other than these things: I love the heated platform! Print can be easily removed and their bottom is straighter than ever before. Wonderful The setup of the machine is really easy. The steps are so clear even my mother can setup this unit! (without the extrusion problem that is ;-)) The LCD screen is great. Menu system speaks for itself. Thanks for reading! Michael