owen
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Posts posted by owen
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Hi
It sounds like you have an error/hole in your obj file. Possibly get a program that can show where it is and/or patch it or start again with a simple base maybe a mm higher than your current base. Once you can get that to slice than cut out most of that base and create your current base again. Just post back if any of this is unclear and if you really get stuck please send the fusion 360 file or share it.
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You need to do a "save as" then select type as stl on each part separately.
If you are in an assembly right click on the part and choose "open" to open that part in a separate window and then do the above.
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Thanks for the update Oliveros. That ABS has a glass transition temperature of 105C compared to PETG (the one I just googled ) of 75C, so it should be much better. You'll have to post a pic when you make your final design.
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I haven't printed with PETG but I think it's similar to NEXT GEN. I use UHU glue and a Brim and make spharp corners on the base base round where possible.
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Great work Oliveros. Thanks for the updates.
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You may need to print it in a different orientation so the weakness of layer adhesion isn't causing the problem. Check out This Thread.
Also you might want to show us the model.
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I've done a lot of stuff in 3D, photos etc. and these are done beautifully. Very clear and easy on the eye. Sure does give a better view of the model. Well done.
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Hi
You just need to check the highest temperature your printer is able to print at and the required temperature for that filament. Which filament is it exactly?
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6 hours ago, muraterciyas said:
May be we need advise for printing PC or ABS. Please feel free to guide us.
Hi
If you make an enclosure for the top of your printer and a door for the front then ABS prints much better. It stops the layers from splitting.
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Hi
Looks like you're not starting close enough to the bed. The first layer and brim should be squished onto the bed so that the lines of print are touching each other with no gap in between. Best if you can do the bed leveling routine and give it another go.
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Try one of these thermal switches. https://www.ebay.com/itm/9-C-99-C-DC-12V-Intelligent-Digital-Led-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-/321723841989
You just need to hook up 12V and a good fan.
I've been using one with a 4cm fan for a while and it works great but on a hot day it's hard to keep the temperature down for the lower temp filaments so now I have hooked up an 8cm fan.
I set it to 45C for ABS and 30C for Ngen. I take my my enclosure off for PLA but if I had to use it I'd set it for 10C to 20C to that the fan is on all the time.
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Hi Christian
I think this occurs when the print head has to slow down for the corner and still has the plastic oozing out at the same rate which makes more plastic come out over a given distance. Maybe some plastic also gets tossed outwards when the nozzle suddenly changes direction. Either way the cure is to either print slower or if you are designing the models yourself you can make rounder corners where possible. Otherwise your prints look very good.
Owen
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16 hours ago, Nicolinux said:
@fergazz I am using 75% triangular infill. But still, I think there is too much stress at on the flat part. I have added a small "notch" to help spread the load but so far I am just tinkering with it and going by gut feeling. I fear I do need to get into Fusion360 and try the Fea analysis...
@JCD hehe, nice idea. Don't know if it would hold because there is still plastic in between the screw and the hole in the rack where this object is inserted into, but it is worth a try.
Maybe make a part like this printed on the side will give give more strength by the direction of the print lines
and make a foot plate to go on top which you would print on the front facing side to give good strength
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Probably a transistor etc. which drives the heated bed is permanently turned on instead of relying on the signal from UM2 to turn it on. Alternatively the transistor is receiving a false signal to it's input which is turning it on. You need to get a technician to have a look and replace the component or you could replace the whole printed circuit board yourself, assuming the transistor is on there.
You could try uploading the firmware first in case it's an error in the code. This is a less likely fix but costs nothing to try. Also look at the electronics to see if any wire has come loose or if there is something bridging contacts.
Good luck
Owen
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I've been using S3D with enclosure and door maintaining 45 degrees C
Nozzle 250
Bed 100
Fan off till 10 layers (when doing 0.15mm layers) then at 20%
Same models were splitting before I used the enclosure
Using just enough fan for better overhangs and tops
At 50mm/sec. at 0.15mm layers but also printing finer layers and slower speeds with good results
I'm sure CURA would print good with the same settings
So I duplicated your settings in Simplify3D and the print lines still seem extremely noticeable. Im not sure if this is just as good as it gets or if I just need to keep tweaking. I just heard so much about the Ultimaker printers that I expected them to be equal or better than the zortrax.
I decided to print a little batman bust and when looking straight at it, it looks lovely, all the details are there.. but when you slightly shift your angle you see how pronounced every print line is. Now Im not expecting perfection, but I expect the depth from one print layer to the next to be a little more subtle.. I guess my zortrax has just spoiled me on how well it prints and how seemingly invisible the print lines are.
I willing to try whatever and keep printing these test pieces if anyone has any additional suggestions.
I don't think that's too bad a print for ABS as it doesn't print as well as NextGen or others. Where you see the very noticeable lines at the top of the shoulders is purely a function of layer height. Lowering layer height will greatly diminish these. You can go down to about 0.04mm layer height or less. Less quite often doesn't make much difference though it might on this section. In S3D you can also print different sections at different layer heights so that you can print fine where you need to without slowing the whole print down. Use the variable settings wizard under the tools menu and change the layer height for each process. Maybe find a smaller model to experiment with.
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I've been using S3D with enclosure and door maintaining 45 degrees C
Nozzle 250
Bed 100
Fan off till 10 layers (when doing 0.15mm layers) then at 20%
Same models were splitting before I used the enclosure
Using just enough fan for better overhangs and tops
At 50mm/sec. at 0.15mm layers but also printing finer layers and slower speeds with good results
I'm sure CURA would print good with the same settings
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Unplug anything new that you've plugged in and see if it starts.
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Yep possible by that method with Simplify3D and should be in Cura.
I printed some Dog Tags. Bottom half 1.7mm high with White XT 0.6mm nozzle. Top half 0.3mm high starting at 1.7mm height of course with Black XT 0.25mm nozzle. The top part had a void for the text so the white showed through.
I did it by hanging around when the bottom half finished. Turning the heatbed back on (though you could get the gcode to leave the heatbed on). Swapping the nozzle and purgeing the new filament and then starting the new print. All done in 0.1mm layers.
Need to ensure your nozzles are the same height and the top half has Brim turned off.
Owen
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My pleasure and no offense taken.
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Hi
Just one drop of oil on the 8mm shafts but not very often
Owen
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That vapour polishing doesn't always look that great due to lost detail but it looks perfect on this print.
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Sorry to hear about your terrible day fergazz :(
I think you might be able to import these settings but if you can't you could just read them and set your settings like that.
UM2+ is capable of printing much more volume then the UM2 but also mine tends to over extrude when I print XT which is why I set the extrusion multiplyer to less than 1 but you should leave it at 1.
With those settings I printed out White XT and Black XT which both printed well.
Good luck.
Coronavirus: Let's do our part
in Official news
Posted
Hi All
For any Aussies this is a great initiative Here. Fill in the form and they'll get back to you fairly quick with the details and model to print. It's the 3D printed part of a face shield and it's a 30 minute to 1 hour print and you send a batch to them at a time. They'll even pay $1.50 per item if you wish to cover your filament cost. They also have a Discord site to discuss etc.