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chopmeister

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Everything posted by chopmeister

  1. Can anybody tell me if there will be a live stream from any of the English speaking unveiling sites? The only thing I found is the iGo3D stream which will be in German.
  2. What Ian said. It was a matter of time before they put out a new model, and frankly, no sane company would go out and say: "Hey, there's a new model coming, please stop buying stuff from us and wait for it to come out." This same thing happens everywhere with every imaginable product. It's not like your original UM has suddenly become obsolete. I have mine for a few years now, and trust me, yours came much improved over my rev.2 machine. And mine still does wonderful prints, and I learned a lot of things using it (mostly the hard way ). That being said, I learned through practice that one printer is simply not enough for me, so I sincerely hope some money will turn my direction soon, so I can get my hands on a UM2. (I hope it's pretty!) :mrgreen:
  3. The flexshaft won't work so don't bother trying. I'm developing a small direct drive extruder for around a year now and I've tried many power transmission types. Sometime last year I tried out a flexshaft based extruder. Everything worked, except the flexshaft itself. The hysteresis causes very very bad walls because of the constant fluctuation of extrusion. Bear in mind while doing all this that a single NEMA17 motor is much heavier than the whole UM printhead. And that's without a hobbed bolt and all other parts. So if you don't have an effective way of keeping the weight down, you are basically sacrificing all that makes UM faster and more precise than other printers. You get a bit less oozing and retraction problems, but you lose speed and precision.
  4. That's what I needed to hear. Thanks. I hope I will be able to save up for that thing by the end of summer, so expect loads of questions around that time, hahaha. I always wanted a lathe, but it became serious a few days ago when I needed to enlarge a bore on a gear from 4mm to 5mm and have it really precisely centered. And it turned out I can't find ANY machinist here who will bother with such a 5 minute job. And then I went crazy and decided that it's better (as it always turns out in the end, at least for me) to get a machine and do stuff like that myself, instead of begging someone to do it for me.
  5. Thanks a bunch for the links Daniel! I already saw a dozen books I'm going to order. And I hope you will be turning metal soon! I'm not that interested in refurbishing, because getting parts for various machines in Croatia is a nightmare. And I'm not really a very patient person. That's why I'm inclined more towards a new machine, to get started immediately. I'm aware that accessories are really expensive, but I hope not many are needed to start learning. What I need to make right now is really simple stuff, like expanding bore holes on gears and such, and machining simple aluminum rods. Nothing fancy. But I'm really excited about making my own custom cutters and stuff like that, I must have watched a million videos on YT about that kind of stuff and it's amazing. So I'm hoping the need for accessories will not be much greater than the time needed to save money for them. The machine on the link I posted seems, at least on paper, just like the thing I need. I'd love for someone who is familiar with lathe work to look at the specs and tell me if I can expect decent performance from it.
  6. I've checked for used ones, but bear in mind that Croatia is only 4.5 million people, so a much smaller market that the US. There's no used lathes in the size I need, mostly huge industrial machines waaay out of my price range. I don't mind spending the money for a new one if it fits my needs. Typical usage scenario would be something like the alu plate on the ultimaker print head and stuff like the prusanozzle, or E3d hotend.... I don't buy much from the US ebay anymore, mostly from ebay UK (because then I don't pay customs and taxes) but I don't even want to know how much I would pay to ship a 150 kg monster half across the world.
  7. Hi all. Since I bought my UM 2 years back, I really got hooked on mechanical design, and it's been load of fun experimenting with upgrades for my printer. Now I'm trying to make something much more serious and I will need a lot of lathe/mill work, which is proving to be a big hassle where I live. All of the workshops I've contacted in my city only do huge series and large scale work, so nobody is interested in making one off prototypes. The obvious solution for me is to get a lathe and mill and do the work myself. I also enjoy learning how to work with new tools very much, so that's an added bonus for me. What I want to know is if I bought something like this, which seems ideal for my home workshop, would I be able to machine... let's say a steel hotend or something like that? http://www.bernardo.at/index.php?id=62&L=1&openuid=122&katid=4&groupid=176&product_id=5380&variation_id=5380 Most of the stuff I would be machining is 3d printer related (in brass, aluminum and steel) so you basically know what size and type of parts I have in mind. This machine seems really affordable in terms of price and space required. But having no experience, I don't really know if it's up to the task. Are there any accessories I would need which don't come standard on this thing? Any help would be much appreciated! Cheers, Chopmeister
  8. Hey Daid, I sent you a PM so check it out when you catch the time!
  9. +1 on that. I usually change more than one setting between prints, and the interface stutters a lot then, especially with hi-poly models. IMHO, the slicing is so fast now that it really doesn't benefit from working in the background.
  10. Thanks for the clarification. Oh yes it's annoying all right. The metric plug-in thread would be a great solution. I feel kinda stupid having to design multiple parts just to mount a hotend. And mind you, I'm designing the whole head from scratch for an experiment I want to try, so I'm not limited to UM's head design. And it's still a PITA. :mad:
  11. I have to ask about something I noticed while designing a mount for this hotend. Why are the two topmost ring thicknesses 3.75mm and 5.6mm on the heatsink? It seems like a really unusual design decision as opposed to 4 mm and 5 or 6mm respectively? If it were the latter it would be really easy to lasercut a mount for this (which I prefer to 3d printing for parts like these). With these dimensions however, it's impossible to have lasercut parts and have it flush mounted.
  12. Hehe, 'sorry bout that! This is a bit OT, but if you're looking for one buy a Bosch PBD-40. It's an amazing tool to have if you like diy stuff.
  13. That's too bad! I have a drill press at home and I managed to widen the existing hole on the alu block to 3mm without any issues, so the thermocouple fits nicely now. The thermistor seemed too much of a hassle and this took 3 seconds to do. Designing a mount is next on my list, but the damned day job somehow seems to creep towards night time every day.
  14. Hi all, I'll be in Utrecht somewhere around 25.-30.06. for a 3dsmax convention. It would be a fantastic opportunity for me to meet some of you from the area where it all began. I had a chance to visit Protospace when I was there two years ago (my UM was being shipped at the same time so I really didn't have much to talk about then...), where I was given a nice tour by Jelle (correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it was Jelle, I'm bad with names... and faces ), whom I bombarded with questions for an hour. So now when I have much more to talk about I'd like to buy you all a beer. And two beers for Daid (one for him and one for Cura ) if he happens to be around. So if anybody thinks that's a good idea let me know. I know it's a bit soon, but I've gotta buy plane tickets these days so it's nice to have some things planned in advance. On a side note, I could probably extend my stay for day or two if there were to be an Ulti-evening around that time, so could anybody from UM HQ tell me if there is anything planned around that date? I don't know what the frequency of those events is. Cheers, chopmeister
  15. Hi Gijs, I must say your filament looks amazing! I'm preparing to order a few spools, and I was literally blown away by the super cheap shipping rates you have on site. I hope that's not an error but the shipping was calculated to 10 Euro for 4 spools to Croatia. Tell me that is correct and you've just won yourself a steady customer.
  16. Thankfully there is no chance of plugging on the bowden/alu interface with this hotend, so all that's necessary is to keep the bowden in place precisely enough the filament slides in where it should. It doesn't have to be leak proof, which gives us many creative possibilities with mounting, and less potential problems if you miss the bowden length by a fraction of a mm. Which is the single worst thing about the V1 hotend I'm still stuck with. I don't really intend to use this hotend with a bowden setup, but to test a completely different extruder I'm working on, though I'll try to whip out an easy mounting scheme when I get it. I do suspect a loss of a cm or two in print area on either XY or Z axis, in order for it to function properly.
  17. I never cared much for Z repeatability. I switch layer heights between practically every print. In that scenario it would take ages to setup the Z adjuster (or whatever you have) correctly for a single print and then do it all over again every time. I use a double or triple skirt on every print, which gives me enough time to manually adjust the bed to the appropriate height. I got better at this with time and now I miss maybe one print in twenty five or more. Even when I do, the effort required to restart is much less than fiddling with the Z switch constantly. I just keep it in a position where the nozzle homes safely above the bed, and that's it. Keeping the platform level was always a much bigger issue for me.
  18. Hi Sanjay, I went ahead and ordered one. I'm really looking forward to trying it out! It looks well designed and finely machined. The Included heater cartridge is a nice plus, because mine is broken (although it still works). I was looking for a simple, all metal, hotend for quite a while now, and really got tired of waiting for the Prusa nozzle. Tell me, how does it perform without the fan installed? Have you measured the temperature on top of the heatsink in that scenario? Thanks, Chopmeister
  19. I think this is the best piece of news I heard all month I'm so glad you will be making a completely new slicer. Lots of things and best practices have been discovered on the UM groups in the last year or two, so I think it's a great time to put all that info to good use. As for feature requests here are some: 1. Netfabb style infill - the best infill I've ever had on prints, in my opinion the ideal balance between structural strength, looks and speed (and also great for printing nice upskins) 2. The power-user mode, as you call it, would be really awesome thing to have, with all possible settings exposed (you can never have enough settings ) 3. Multiple extrusion widths/speeds with a decent GUI - netfabb's way of doing it is a GUI design version of a Darwin award, so it's a great example how the new GUI shouldn't look like. There must be a way to do this more intuitively. 4. Something like a "hash code" for settings - it would be awesome to pack a print profile into a string, which can then be copy-pasted from the 3d model's description (for example, if I could put in the description of an object on thingiverse: "Cura: [hTg53%gdSH432FD]", there would be no need to read about print settings, and it would make it super easy to share profiles online. I don't know if this is feasible, given the amount of settings available. 5.And last but not least: adaptive slicing! there's tons of research papers about it on the web. I know it's probably tough to do, but I would like to see that in a next gen slicer. You just input a min and max layer height, and the slicer adapts to the features and overhangs on the model. It gives a much better quality/time ratio than uniform slicing. I'm sure I'll think of more stuff soon Cheers, Chopmeister
  20. @snowygrouch: I'm finishing up the instructions and description for my version of the direct drive. Since yours isn't available on thingiverse do you think it would be okay to have a link to your site there so people can easily have a look at the printed version too? Cheers, chopmeister
  21. Yikes, you are absolutely right!!! I'm sorry but it really wasn't intentional. I was just super-excited about how cool it looked and snapped a pic an uploaded it without much thinking. (In my defense I'd been working for 20 hours straight at that moment so I wasn't really capable of thinking at all). In the more elaborate description and instructions I am currently preparing, you are of course mentioned in several places and your design as the main inspiration for my own. But that doesn't of course negate the fact that I did what you said. I will update this description accordingly too, just to set things straight. Once again, I apologize, normally I am not one to skip credit where credit is due. No hard feelings, I hope. Cheers, Chopmeister
  22. I love the new interface! Awesome work Daid!
  23. I finally made my direct drive parts. I went a different path though and lasercut them. I have no time to test today unfortunately, but I will post results and files during the weekend. But they are looking nice! (thingiverse page)
  24. Yes, I know, but I'm definitely putting the motor on the back. The extruder sticks out there anyway so it's not so bad.
  25. I'm planning to do this mod as soon as my couplers arrive. Hopefully that won't be four weeks. I don't care much for lugging my UM around so I don't have a problem with the motors sticking out, but I'll definitively be back here for advice when the time to reverse the motors comes
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