Daid
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3D Prints
Posts posted by Daid
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The mid front move during heatup is so you can safely remove any residue from the nozzle, without having to reach into the printer. Not sure why it would to the back after that, could be in the gcode, as it might think it still need to switch the nozzle up/down.
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I can't see any downside.
Health and safety. The hazardous material measurement people loved it, as they had finally something harmful to measure in our office.
There is also an possible case of a house exploding because of excessive hairspray usage in a 3D printer. But I don't think that's what really happened there.
And hairspray isn't made with the intent to be heated to these temperatures for prolonged times, so no idea what gasses it would emit then.
And then there is the possible effect on axis, belts, bearings. Can't be good if it goes where oil should be going.
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Technically, it could connect to two. We had this in early versions. However, it caused various difficulties related to the WiFi connection. So we software switch to one or the other.
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Nope. The bed is forced to cool down at the end of a print.
You can, with the 3.6 firmware in combination with the Cura 2.5 beta, pre-heat the bed from Cura. So you could initiate a pre-heat as soon as your print finishes.
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The movement isn't a huge problem. I've printed on the back of my bicycle with my Ultimaker Original. Slight quality loss when I hit a bumpy road.
If you are on the sea (you could be on a lake I assume?) then the salty air however will most likely destroy it. My previous job was in road-side equipment, and anything near the sea was doomed if it wasn't sealed properly. Missing a simple O ring would spell doom for the electronics.
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The start.html isn't related to the documentation (it is the wifi setup). If you don't end up at the documentation then your firmware is most likely older then required for this documentation.
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As of firmware 3.6, you can also find documentation on the API on the printer itself.
At http://[ip]/docs/api
As soon as this release is turned into stable, I will update those posts to reflect this.
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That said, I have seen some really excellent prints coming out of i3 printers.
In the hands of the proper person, almost any printer that allows for tweaking can produce excellent prints. Be careful when making judgement on that.
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The UM3 needs modifications to successfully print Ninjaflex. I don't know the details, just know someone managed to do it. Due to the very high flexibility it is very tricky to print this with our setup.
TPU-95A can be printed in it. We're still working on those profiles, but I thought I heard someone say that those will go into a beta testing soon.
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The 15.04 Cura had a feature where it would detect that an object was larger then 10 meter, and then it would scale down by a factor 1000:
I'm not sure if this feature is still present in Cura 2.x
Note that I haven't used sketchup after I discovered designspark-mechanical. As it functions quite the same, without exploding your model in your face.
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If you disable (or never enable) WiFi from the menus, then the wifi module is disabled (transmitters and receivers are disabled, indicated by the LEDs being off on the module)
If that isn't secure enough for your environment. It is possible to remove the WiFi module and still have a functioning printer. I know this has been done for a few customers on request.
The WiFi module is located under the square white cover, and has a clear "FCC" logo on it. No soldering required to remove it! You can just unplug it.
Note that this does not remove the menu options, but otherwise the software has no problems with running without essential hardware. In the same bit, the camera and NFC can also be removed without causing the system to fail.
We wouldn't want your printer to be out of commission just because a non-essential part is broken.
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Maybe we should port the UM3 PID controller to the UM2? It has a few extra features that greatly assist in stability of the temperature control. Then we might be able to find a parameter set that works for both the 25W and 35W.
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Small update, I got confirmation that the printer has been located and is heading towards my office. This means I can confirm my suspicion on how it was bricked.
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what does this mean for others who need the update? Is this an occasional thing?
As the printer really bugs you to do an XY calibration, it should be rare for a machine not to have it.
We've also fixed this update problem for the upcoming 3.6 release (due in less then 2 weeks), so after that this bug won't happen on an update, even if you have the right pre-conditions.
And the factory already programs new machines with a firmware version high enough not to exhibit this problem.
We're also verified the 3.6 release with all the possible factory based versions.
So, what does it mean for others:
- if you are 3.5 or higher, no risk.
- If you are 3.4 or lower, only a risk if you have no XY calibration (For any hotend combination) so that is rare.
- And in 2 weeks, no risk for anyone anymore.
Is this an occasional thing? Not planning on occasionally bricking printers. I like printers to work :-)
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It only shows Ultimaker, or it sometimes goes to the menu? That is a bit unclear to me in your post. (And pretty important for diagnosing the problem)
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Even more assurance, I think I might have found out why your printer failed to startup after update. After quite a few tests I found out that:
A combination of old firmware, and no XY offset calibration can cause the software to crash after an update (as it's migrating that configuration, and fails it if is unset). That is a bit odd, as XY offset calibration should have been done in the factory.
Thanks for the info on Coolblue, I'll see if I can find out what happened with that printer.
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This could potentially a problem with the WiFi module inside the printer.
If you feel comfortable enough, you can unscrew the square white cover at the bottom of the printer (at the network connector). There on the red electronics board, unplug the cable near the text "2005-G". This should disable the WiFi module. (The module itself is next to this connector, but is connected with this small cable)
Do this will the printer is disconnected from the mains power.
If the printer keeps functioning after this, contact your sales point, they can replace this module or send you a new one. It is currently a known issue with a small amount of Ultimaker 3 printers.
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The buildplate vibrations could be the cause, could also be temperature oscillation.
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You have play in your X and Y axis. Meaning that if it changes direction, it won't change instantly, but needs a bit of movement from the motor before the head starts to move.
I could tell more if I know what kind of machine you build, feel free to share a picture of that as well.
(On an Ultimaker this is usually because of lack in tension on the short belts)
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Yes, the PWM is generated by the microprocessor and delivered through a BC817 transistor.
The max current for the BC817 is 500mA, but you need to stay away from that limit unless you like SMD soldering...
If only life was so simple. 500mA is the maximum power. However, the true limitation is power dissipation. As there is no active cooling, your true limit is heat based. For that you need to calculate the amount of power "spend" in the transistor, and know the thermal properties (some of which are in the datasheet, some are "defined" by the board), the maximum temperature allowed by the transistor and the ambient temperature.
I haven't done this math in 10 years, so I don't remember the exact details.
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I LOVE brim. It's all about success ratios. Prints with a brim have a higher success ratio then those without brims. As success ratio is mostly about the first layer sticking to the bed. If the first layer sticks, the main left over failure case is when your filament is tangled or runs out.
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Sounds like a bad bearing indeed. But I'm not that so worried as SyntaxTerror. As this is most likely one of the "corner" bearing. The rods are pretty much impossible to damage.
Try to listen from which corner the sound comes from. That should narrow it down to 2 bearings.
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I understand the reluctance to update. We've updated hundreds of printers lots of times without problems. So that's why I'm keen on getting my hands on that printer.
If you wait a few weeks, a new firmware version will be out. That means you will only have to update once, instead of twice within a short period. If your current firmware is lower then 3.5, then active leveling might exhibit problems. So it is good to be aware of that.
Who did you buy it from? (Hats of for the quick response and swap from their side) I hope I might intercept it before they repair it.
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We are going to stable within a few weeks. As we are entering system testing on Thursday. I'm trying a release at least once every 3 months. And "agile" testing releases at least once every 2 weeks.
The update error of .92 was very unfortunate. And it wasn't as bad, as updates where still possible. I've also changed the "release to testing" process a bit to include update testing. And we simplified this code, to prevent more mistakes.
When pausing a print, send the print head to its home position. I have accidentally gotten in the way of the print head while fixing an issue with the print itself. Once the print head is thrown off, you are doomed. If it simply homed itself when you press pause, then that wouldn't be an issue at all. You could also put homing the print head in the tune menu as well, but homing the print head as part of the pause process makes the most sense since people may not know that it's in the tune or even what it means if they do see it.As the homing switches have a limited accuracy, you would get a slight layer shift if we do this. We do put the head at 10,10, so that should be far away from your hands...
My UM3 Extended also drags nozzle #2 through what it has already printed all the time causing damage to the print. I have enabled Z-Hop and calibrated everything. It still does that. I suspect there is an issue with nozzle leveling.Sounds like a leveling issue indeed. Making sure the nozzle and the bed is clean before starting can help on this area. We are still looking to improve on this area as well.
Restarting a print job from the layer it left off on would be another great addition. The print failure from above where I throw the print head off could be recovered this way as well. Even if there is a power outage. It just makes sense.Often asked feature. But, in the end, you don't know the exact layer, the homing inaccuracy and the print might have been detached make this a lot of trouble to be actually useful. We also cannot level with a job on the bed, and all kinds of other major problems. Don't expect this feature.
Changing the intensity of the LED's is sorely needed. My camera's have a hard time with that much light, so the image is over exposed unless I take matters in my own hands and cover the lights with painters tape.Done for the next release, already in testing.
Some of the processes in the menu tree are so linear you can't go back or cancel ever. This is frustrating. (e.g. choose the wrong material to interact with, choose a nozzle instead of a material.) I feel like I could list many of the processes in the menu and most would assume that you want to move forward and never change the parameters or cancel the process.Some improvements have been made here, but we're not there yet. The change material can be canceled in the first step now.
You might just want to listen the machine, instead of trying to fight it.I got an error once with the NFC "Too many materials detected!" It kept detecting over again, popping up the error. I click Ok. It immediately goes back to the detecting, error. Over and Over and Over. I had to race and select the material manually within the milliseconds I had before it would throw the error again. It took several tries to click/scroll, click/scroll to beat it before the error shut me out. Super frustrating!! I hope I don't get that again!"Detected too many new materials, ensure only one new material is present."
It sees 2 (or more) materials that it does not know yet, so it does not know which material spool you are putting on the machine. Remove both. Only put the one you are inserting on it. Let it bleep and continue. Then for your other material, do the same. No manual selection required, as you have two rolls of material that allow for auto-detection.
Else, if you don't want the machine to think for you, remove the tags from the spools.
Because we are limited in power, a cold bed takes more power to heat up then a hot bed. The new firmware does this better as well, and can now heat both at the same time. By properly limit the amount of power going to the bed without overloading the powersupply.By the way, why does it heat the bed and then the nozzles? Seems like a waste of time.-
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New firmware for Ultimaker 3, version 3.6
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
We've seen the same behaviour at random in the office. So far I've not been able to link it to a specific firmware version, and it seems to happen at random for us.