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Everything posted by Daid

  1. Daid

    UM3 bricked

    I just noticed you are located in The Netherlands. May I ask where you are exactly located? This isn't the normal way to handle this, but I am interested in how it is bricked. So me, or one of my fellow engineers, could drop by to check why it isn't starting after the update and fixing it. As this could provide valuable information on why the update failed...
  2. It's a compromise we had to do. We want to change this in the future, but right now, print speed and flow are global and not per extruder. Reference number for this change is EM-196
  3. Daid

    UM3 bricked

    The logo still displays? Good. That means it is not all dead. I am wondering, does the ring around the button goes on? (35second mark) There could be 2 things: * Firmware could be broken for some reason during the update process (I've done lots of testing, never happened for me. But that does not always say everything) * Printer cannot contact the motion controller board. Currently this fault isn't handled really well and the printer stays stuck after the 35 seconds mark. The first point can be done with firmware recovery. The second one is most likely a hardware issue. Firmware recovery isn't the "simplest" thing in the world. But it's doable by the average person. You do need to do some unscrewing of hardware, write an image to an micro SD card, and put that in a machine. Support has a better guide on this, but if you do not want to handle this yourself, your sales contact should be able to handle repairs as well.
  4. The UM3 has 24V. 24V could be pulled from the FAN connector all the way on the side of the board, this is an "always on" connection. A different place to get 24V from would be the 2 pin LED connector. This is off by default, and can be switched on with M42 S255 from GCode. Note that the UM3 is stretching the limits of the power supply. If you are planning to use more then 10W, you will have to use a different power supply. And I recommend unplugging the case lighting to save some power there. If you use too much power, the printer will seem to restart. But the LED on the power supply will go off when this happens. That is a way to see you are using too much power. We are so stretching for power, that we are regulating the amount of power to the bed by the temperature of the bed, and estimating how much the hotends are using. All to prevent the powersupply from switching off. The NFC connector only has 5V.
  5. Note that I tried this with an UMO somewhere in 2013 I think. I didn't get reliable results. It kept jamming because of string in the Y piece. It never printed more then 20 layers without some kind of issue. Times have changed, printers have improved, hotends got smaller. But I don't think this will ever achieve high reliability. Moving to 1.75mm might help a bit more.
  6. The 1mm is because, if you best is tilted enough, adjusting one screw might lift the other side, causing the head to crash there if it moves again. We never do the 1mm at the office ;-)
  7. The simplest solution is Octoprint on, well, just about any linux board. A cheap OrangePI can do this job. You could also setup an ESP to stream the data towards the printer. The UM2 has an extra serial port, all the way on the other side of the board compared to the USB plug. It's on a 4 pin connector. This connector has 5V, GND, TX, RX. These are all 5V, so you need to level shift them to 3.3V for the ESP. And you would also need to change the firmware in the UM2 to use this port for communication (#define SERIAL_PORT 2 instead of 0) The hard part would be the firmware for the ESP, it needs to stream the data to Marlin, and receive data trough wifi, it does not have the memory to store the whole GCode file, but it has more then enough memory to buffer the gcode. And WiFi is more then fast enough to get the data there. But, I'm currently going for the different route, adding a Linux board to my UMO and running the Ultimaker 3 software stack on that.
  8. On USB printing, your OS (drivers) and hardware can make a huge difference. On both quality and stability. I have a laptop that simply cannot USB print for more then 10 minutes, no matter what I tried. (FYI, I'm the software engineer that made the classic Cura. If I cannot get it to work...) This is a core reason why we pretty much stopped supporting USB printing with the Ultimaker 2. SD card printing proved to be a whole lot more reliable and stable.
  9. Yes you can. I would recommend starting from the CPE profile. As CPE and PETG are pretty close in behavior.
  10. Don't do 75micron first layers (other layers are fine, just the first layer needs to be thicker to catch variations). That's simply asking for problems. The variations in the leveling measurement, the bed and the rods will cause you nothing but troubles.
  11. Oh and also, we signed the firmware not to keep you guys out of changing things. If I wanted that, I would have made it a whole lot more difficult to get into the system. Instead I like it that you guys poke in the firmware. We are signing the updates to prevent attacks on the system, as we now can do over-the-air updates, we need to ensure that no man-in-the-middle attack is done and your nice Ultimaker 3 is turned into a spam bot.
  12. https://ultimaker.com/en/community/5346-ultimaker-2-easter-egg Guess what? Yes. 8) Good luck. (If you find it, don't spoil the fun. Even a large part of our office still hasn't found it)
  13. Is @tinkergnome and sadly no, there's no tinkergnome firmware for UM3. Also users (at least right now) can't build UM3 firmwares since they are signed by UM, but is possible to edit the machine firmware by accessing by ssh. Also you can use gcode and edit it manually to add the lights off command, or wait 2 months for the firmware with the led control option. Or, take the jump to the testing firmware TODAY. As we pushed a new version to testing yesterday that has lighting settings. Not sure how important lighting configuration is for you and if you are willing to risk running a testing version. (Small note, we noticed that installing the update can seem to block on the Ultimaker logo after first restart, after power cycling your machine works. Bug is known, cause is know and will be fixed before this becomes stable)
  14. We're researched a whole bunch of different options for the 3.5 firmware update. The current positions give the best results in repeatability and accuracy of the measurements. The difference between manual and active leveling is that the active leveling needs some flex in the system for good measurements.
  15. After a T0 or T1 you need to use M302 again, as the hotend lifting code is disabling and enabling the minimal extrusion temperature.
  16. It's also a bit of a catch 22, people want the leveling measurements to be fast, as they want to be at the printer in case the first layer fails. At the same time, if we take enough time during leveling, the first layer has a much lower chance to fail, so you do not need to be at the printer. However, we cannot simply say "you will have to trust our leveling system" if it hasn't proved itself yet. And I don't think I have to argue that it still needs to prove itself a bit more.
  17. The fact if it's an UM2 or UM2+ is VERY important for this problem. As the UM2 has the problem where the teflon piece slowly deforms, causing this exact problem. Requiring a new teflon piece. The UM2+ is much better armed against this problem.
  18. This is only happening when WiFi printing? Is cura running&monitoring the printer when this happens? Does the menu on the printer still respond? If the menu responds, what happens if you try to tune the temperature? Can you send me the log files after this happened? Instructions: Wait for the problem to happen Restart the printer Insert an USB drive Goto the maintenance->diagonstics menu, select "dump logs to USB" It will create a file on the USB drive, send me a copy
  19. Not to sound harsh, but I rather work on the solution so this works for everyone. (I'm the guy in charge of firmware at Ultimaker) Got a few questions, the setup you need, is that static IP configuration on the cabled connection, static IP configuration on the WiFi connection. Or, even dynamic configuration with a static gateway? And then on WiFi or LAN? (Maybe you have some IT instructions that you can copy&paste without passwords) I'm asking these questions to make sure we build the new static configuration feature in a way that it can support your network configuration. As it is a bit unclear to me what exact needs you have.
  20. Quick&dirty workaround, the printer restarts when you initiate an USB connection, stopping any print that is running. Using something as simple as Pronterface can do this with ease.
  21. I agree with electromu, it's most likely the 5V power regulator that is blown. Not the easiest part to replace sadly. On the whole fan confusion. On older machines, there was no official connection for the small print head fan. This fan was added later in the design when the first large batch of boards was already ordered. (Those where chaotic times) To get the 5V fan to work, we hooked it up to the 4 pin connector that you see now, this 4 pins has serial and power. (Actually designed to be hooked up to an Pi). Later a connector was added for this on the board, but due to variations in connectors this isn't used in this case. Most likely this board was already replaced once? As the connector on the fan cable is bigger then the connector on the board, requiring the old hackjob. The fan could be power<->ground reversed, but that's fine, almost all fans do not care about this. And thus it's a mistake easily made by assembly. Also note that there are 3 fan connectors on the board: * Next to the 4 pins connect, this is 24V, always on. * Near the limit switches, this is 24V, on/off by the controller, used for print cooling * At the middle of the board, 5V, can be switched on/off in later revisions of the board. Missing in early versions.
  22. At R&D, we have a proof of concept of a button directly printing from Solidworks. I don't know when it will be ready for prime time. But it is something that is getting attention. It's not using the Windows 8.1 3D printing framework for multiple reasons. One being backwards compatibility (this solution also works for Windows 7), the other one is that Microsoft keeps changing their word on how we can interface with it. From a technical standpoint, their 3D printing support is a mess, and currently cannot provide the user experience we want to provide. It forces an UI with limited options to use which is a step downwards from Cura in features and user flow.
  23. Normal window glass is flatter. But more fragile. So that is not to difficult, but impossible for us to reliably ship. And a bit of a safety hazard to put into our product by default. 9 point leveling doesn't have to take a whole lot longer then what we have now. We are working on it, what we can do, is first measure the 3 points as we do now, and then with that data we have a pretty clear indication where the bed is, so we can start measuring very close to the bed after that. We can do the first 3 points with one nozzle, and then the other 9 with the other. So we combine the height difference measurement as well.
  24. From a software perspective, be sure to run the latest stable firmware. There are a whole bunch of improvements on the leveling measurement in 3.5 Also make sure your nozzle is clean before it starts, especially if you use something else then PLA. There is a bit of variation/curves in the glass, so with the 3 point measurement that we do, there are still going to be high and low spots compared to what we measured. We are looking into measuring a full grid to improve on this area.
  25. There is also an ATMega16U2 (Or ATMega8U2, or ATMega32U2) on there. It's located near the USB connector. It needs the USB serial firmware from Arduino: atmega16u2-Mega2560-Rev3.hex @ https://github.com/arduino/Arduino/tree/master/hardware/arduino/avr/firmwares/atmegaxxu2/arduino-usbserial Seeing that you manage to put a bootloader on there, it sounds like you have a working AVR ISP. With that you could also just load the firmware on the ATMega2560, instead of just the bootloader. You also need to program the proper fuses. Fuses for the ATMega16U2: ef d9 fc Fuses for the ATMega2560: ff d0 fd
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