reeper

Has there been any news concerning Paul's work ? Sorry if the answer to this is obvious, I've been out of the loop for some time

All the manual links take me to the placeholder webpage. If this link https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/199/original/Heated_Bed_upgrade_kit_Assembly_Manual.pdf miraculously works for you. could you upload it to another location so that I may download it and mirror it using dropbox for those that find themselves in the same situation

Greetings all, Would it be possible for someone to provide a link to the heated bed kit assembly manual as the website is currently crippled. It would be greatly appreciated.

If I use your link to request a new password it tells me that my email address isn't known, as I mentioned to you in pm. How else should I go about asking for a new one ?

Am I the only person who has seemingly had their store account deleted/lost?

Still waiting for the heated bed kit to be shipped.

It's unfortunate if this is the case, as much as I am a fan of their products I've never had a shipment from ultimaker leave without a hitch. It's why I decided to inquire here about lead times just after making the purchase.

I live in France and haven't heard of any resellers, it would be nice if there is one that offers the upgrade at a more affordable price, 300+ euros (incl shipping) was a bit steep

I've just recently(yesterday) placed an order for a heated bed kit upgrade for my UM1 and have read that there are issues with shipment lead times. I just wanted to inquire as to whether the heated bed kits' shipment has been affected or not and if I could expect shipment within the next few days. Sorry for my impatient post, looking forward to installing the upgrade.

Another query: I’ve printed the anulus with the above mentioned settings(240 degrees, 110mm/s, 0.18mm layer height) and ended up with the following result: The inset text is not so inset unfortunately, could the rippling be due to over tightened belts since I have banana tensioners installed ? Edit: Odd, I printed the heart gears and found the pins to be fine if only a bit too long. The gears were a little loose and I have yet to print shorter pins to force them to fit more snugly. I printed a set of pins for the transmission, pushed a medium pin into one of the idler gears and it seems to fit fine, the idler rotates quite freely. I don’t have the carrier printed yet to test the length though

1) The bolt was clean and seemingly well positioned 2) I have the v2 extruder drive and the spring was around 12.7mm long when the drive was disengaged. I tightened it as you suggest and it did make a significant improvement 3) Slides fine 4) I had measured an average diameter of 2.8mm for the filament when I first started using it, a quick check showed that it had increased to 2.9 so I updated the parameter. I knew that this could potentially worsen the issue but I didn't want to falsely compensate for the under-extrusion(although I guess past the flow limit the system takes strain with minimal flow gain) 5) Not calibrated(bad, I know), I use the 836 value I've seen associated with the v3 bolt and the v2 extruder drive. I managed to reduce the issue somewhat, in spite of the diameter increase, by tightening the extruder drive and upping the temp to 240. I can now print with a speed of 110mm/s, 240 degrees and 0.18m layer height resulting in only a slightly visible under-extrusion. Thanks again for your help Has anyone achieved better results with the stock nozzle ? Did you achieve those speeds with a larger diameter nozzle ? I wish I had a heated bed at this point, these larger parts are incredibly difficult to remove from the bed. I think the squished initial layers I've seen on my gears will interfere with their alignment(I leave a gap between the nozzle and bed large enough to push a sheet of paper between with a little friction) Thank you for the pointers on the transmission assembly, hopefully I'll have a positive result to report once I've printed all the parts.

Many thanks for the advice, for some reason I had decided that the parameters I chose were within the limits of what was possible with a 0.4mm nozzle. I decreased the layer height to 0.18mm and the speed to 100mm/s making for a flow of 7.2mm³/s. Unfortunately this still results in visible under-extrusion both on the sides and the top skin of the gear(the skin closed with 7 solid layers but the thread is visibly thin). I checked the teeth marks on the filament a few times and saw no evidence of grinding. The temp was at 220, perhaps I should have used 230 - 240 ? I can lower the height and speed further but I’m starting to wonder if it isn’t a hardware issue.

Greetings to all, Up till now I’ve tended to print slowly at lower layer heights(60mm/s, 0.04 - 0.1mm, 200 temp, 0.4mm nozzle) with some success. I decided today that I wanted to print the automatic transmission model (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778) and that I wanted to sacrifice some quality for gains in print time. After consulting https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/3zkPAMi9z-0 I upped the temp to 220, the speed to 120mm/s and the layer height to 0.2mm for a preliminary test. Printing one of the gears produced what appeared to be under-extrusion, ridges in the outer shell and a top skin that didn’t close up(3 solid layers, 15% infill). I decided to increase the amount of solid bottom and top skin layers to 5 and the temp to 230. The gear ended up more or less the same, here are a few photos to illustrate the problems I’ve encountered ridges caused by under-extrusion ?, I believe my belt tension to be decent for both the short and long belts(I have added banana tensioners) 5 solid layers but under extrusion appears to stop them from closing up bottom skin works out fine with an initial layer printing speed of 20mm/s I would greatly appreciate any advice on how to improve my results with faster prints.

Hey Daid, Not to nag, but do you have a rough idea of when we’ll be able to peruse the code of your new slicer engine ? I’ve been eagerly awaiting the possibility since I had the chance to chat with you at the Erfurt conference.

I’ve been out of printing commission for a while but am happy to have found the time to tinker once more. I have wanted to test out retraction so I decided to attack the klein bottle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2273 without scaling) In terms of setup I have a late 2011 ultimaker fitted with a v3 bolt, the spring extruder drive upgrade, the extruder clip and a v1 hot end(I have the v2 upgrade but haven’t had any obvious issues with the first version thus far). My ultimaker is running the latest Marlin firmware from github in order to avoid the retraction bug that Illuminarti mentions here http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1789-retraction-and-blobs/?hl=retraction Using cura 13.03 and the following settings, my first attempt(Print 1) failed when the print head knocked it over before the print could finish(5 hours into the print :( ). Given that the initial layer was extremely small, I assume that a slight bit of warped PLA catching the print head was enough to dislodge the print. Print 1 settings : filament_diameter = 3.00 nozzle_size = 0.4 wall_thickness = 0.8 retraction_enable = True layer_height = 0.1 solid_layer_thickness = 0.6 fill_density = 20 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 200 support = None enable_raft = False filament_density = 1.00 skirt_line_count = 3 skirt_gap = 3.0 retraction_min_travel = 3.0 retraction_speed = 30.0 retraction_amount = 4.0 retraction_extra = 0.0 travel_speed = 200 max_z_speed = 3.0 bottom_layer_speed = 20 cool_min_layer_time = 5 fan_enabled = True bottom_thickness = 0.3 object_sink = 0.0 enable_skin = False plugin_config = (lp1 . model_matrix = 1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0,0.0,0.0,0.0,1.0 extra_base_wall_thickness = 0.0 cool_min_feedrate = 10 fan_layer = 1 fan_speed = 100 fan_speed_max = 100 raft_margin = 5 raft_base_material_amount = 100 raft_interface_material_amount = 100 support_rate = 50 support_distance = 0.5 infill_type = Line solid_top = True fill_overlap = 15 bridge_speed = 100 sequence = Loops > Perimeter > Infill force_first_layer_sequence = True joris = False retract_on_jumps_only = True hop_on_move = False I decided that the retraction of the first print wasn’t aggressive enough, so I conservatively extended the retraction amount by 0.5mm to 4.5mm for the second print. I also sunk the object by 3 mm to improve bed adhesion and avoid the bottle being knocked over a second time. As can be seen in the image, the second print finished but the retraction actually appears to be worse than in the first. I checked the filament diameter and it doesn’t appear to have increased so I’m at a loss as to why it has worsened. I would also appreciate any advice on handling the overhangs in this print, I suppose a different fan duct or a second fan would improve matters ?