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Everything posted by reeper

  1. Has there been any news concerning Paul's work ? Sorry if the answer to this is obvious, I've been out of the loop for some time
  2. All the manual links take me to the placeholder webpage. If this link https://www.ultimaker.com/spree/uploads/199/original/Heated_Bed_upgrade_kit_Assembly_Manual.pdf miraculously works for you. could you upload it to another location so that I may download it and mirror it using dropbox for those that find themselves in the same situation
  3. Greetings all, Would it be possible for someone to provide a link to the heated bed kit assembly manual as the website is currently crippled. It would be greatly appreciated.
  4. If I use your link to request a new password it tells me that my email address isn't known, as I mentioned to you in pm. How else should I go about asking for a new one ?
  5. Am I the only person who has seemingly had their store account deleted/lost?
  6. Still waiting for the heated bed kit to be shipped.
  7. It's unfortunate if this is the case, as much as I am a fan of their products I've never had a shipment from ultimaker leave without a hitch. It's why I decided to inquire here about lead times just after making the purchase.
  8. I live in France and haven't heard of any resellers, it would be nice if there is one that offers the upgrade at a more affordable price, 300+ euros (incl shipping) was a bit steep
  9. I've just recently(yesterday) placed an order for a heated bed kit upgrade for my UM1 and have read that there are issues with shipment lead times. I just wanted to inquire as to whether the heated bed kits' shipment has been affected or not and if I could expect shipment within the next few days. Sorry for my impatient post, looking forward to installing the upgrade.
  10. Another query: I’ve printed the anulus with the above mentioned settings(240 degrees, 110mm/s, 0.18mm layer height) and ended up with the following result: The inset text is not so inset unfortunately, could the rippling be due to over tightened belts since I have banana tensioners installed ? Edit: Odd, I printed the heart gears and found the pins to be fine if only a bit too long. The gears were a little loose and I have yet to print shorter pins to force them to fit more snugly. I printed a set of pins for the transmission, pushed a medium pin into one of the idle
  11. 1) The bolt was clean and seemingly well positioned 2) I have the v2 extruder drive and the spring was around 12.7mm long when the drive was disengaged. I tightened it as you suggest and it did make a significant improvement 3) Slides fine 4) I had measured an average diameter of 2.8mm for the filament when I first started using it, a quick check showed that it had increased to 2.9 so I updated the parameter. I knew that this could potentially worsen the issue but I didn't want to falsely compensate for the under-extrusion(although I guess past the flow limit the system takes strain with mi
  12. Many thanks for the advice, for some reason I had decided that the parameters I chose were within the limits of what was possible with a 0.4mm nozzle. I decreased the layer height to 0.18mm and the speed to 100mm/s making for a flow of 7.2mm³/s. Unfortunately this still results in visible under-extrusion both on the sides and the top skin of the gear(the skin closed with 7 solid layers but the thread is visibly thin). I checked the teeth marks on the filament a few times and saw no evidence of grinding. The temp was at 220, perhaps I should have used 230 - 240 ? I can lower the height and s
  13. Greetings to all, Up till now I’ve tended to print slowly at lower layer heights(60mm/s, 0.04 - 0.1mm, 200 temp, 0.4mm nozzle) with some success. I decided today that I wanted to print the automatic transmission model (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:34778) and that I wanted to sacrifice some quality for gains in print time. After consulting https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/ultimaker/3zkPAMi9z-0 I upped the temp to 220, the speed to 120mm/s and the layer height to 0.2mm for a preliminary test. Printing one of the gears produced what appeared to be under-extrusion, ridges in the out
  14. Hey Daid, Not to nag, but do you have a rough idea of when we’ll be able to peruse the code of your new slicer engine ? I’ve been eagerly awaiting the possibility since I had the chance to chat with you at the Erfurt conference.
  15. I’ve been out of printing commission for a while but am happy to have found the time to tinker once more. I have wanted to test out retraction so I decided to attack the klein bottle (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2273 without scaling) In terms of setup I have a late 2011 ultimaker fitted with a v3 bolt, the spring extruder drive upgrade, the extruder clip and a v1 hot end(I have the v2 upgrade but haven’t had any obvious issues with the first version thus far). My ultimaker is running the latest Marlin firmware from github in order to avoid the retraction bug that Illuminarti ment
  16. I would have thought that a belt tension issue would produce a problem on two sides of the cube, both being opposite one another. Only one side is ridged like that. Could be an odd stringing that is very close to the cube surface due to unoptimised path planning in netfabb. The PLA colour is Gold/Brass, I ordered it with my ultimaker kit. I think it’s the same colour that bluebot/Paul uses for most of his prints(that I’ve seen anyway)
  17. I’m back once more. I finally got around to fixing my printer’s nozzle leak this weekend. A bit of teflon tape around the brass tube before replacing the nozzle head seemed to do the trick. Previous prints suggested that the y stepper motor belt wasn’t taut enough, I increased the tension and the issue seems to have been remedied. I’ve printed the companion cube from portal, overall it turned out alright. I used netfabb to slice, using the high quality profile after having set the down and up skins to hatching(now looking at the cube I’m not sure I properly selected my modified profile, I
  18. Oh man, the spam is starting to get entertaining.
  19. Just to make sure, you did put grease on the lead screw right ?
  20. Finally got around to tightening the nozzle to try and eliminate the leak. Sadly, it’s better but not completely gone. I guess I will have to take the nozzle off and seal everything up with some plumbers tape. I had a go at slicing the calibration cube using netfabb and the standard profile, unmodified. The result can be seen here https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/a ... directlink The underlying spacing is visible through the top surface of the cube(I suppose sagging is to be expected with relatively sparse spacing) but I’m not entirely certain that the top surface is as it should be(I
  21. I had seen the link concerning belt tension and infill issues. I made sure the motor timing belts are quite taut, and from the beginning I had replaced the 2 nut-10mm bolt setup on the belt clamps with 3 nut-12 mm bolts. The tension is perhaps not perfect, but I think it’s alright for the moment. As for the alignment of the axes, I spent a fair amount of time trying to minimise resistance and measuring gaps. They seem to be ok, but I have nothing to compare with resistance wise. Everything is lubed up. After battling with my phone's camera to get focus to work, I managed to get some isometric
  22. I haven’t held the filament to gauge the movement, but it did appear to be moving without slipping and the “teeth” marks on the filament as it travels up are always regular when I have a look. I may have found part of the problem(not entirely sure). At first I noticed some plastic leaking between the nozzle and the aluminum block, but I pegged it down to printing at higher temperatures and considered it normal based on the photos I have seen. I have only just recently noticed that It’s not as apparent from the front, but looking from the right(in a cooled state) there is a substantial amount
  23. Thanks for the clarification, I had seen both links but I guess the definition of shell hadn’t stuck with me. I’ll have another look at florian’s link to see if I’ve missed anything and at yours for further tips on skeinforge configuration(I haven’t read all the articles in the index yet) Those pictures are all of the same cube, top, bottom and one side. Is it not possible to obtain a smooth surface at this w/t thickness(0.5mm) ?
  24. Ok, to save a bit of time I went back to the calibration box instead of the whistle. Everything is the same as before except I dropped the temperature to 200, the flow/feed rates to 50, travel rate to 100 and the filament packing density to 0.9. I forgot to mention that I dropped extra shells to 0 as suggested by the maker of the whistle on thingiverse, but only before attempting to print the solid whistle. It didn’t appear to make much of a difference(not sure what purpose shells serve). Here’s the box: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/box1.jpg http://dl.dropbox.com/u/16630702/box2.jpg
  25. It’s labelled as PLA, smells somewhat sweet. I suppose I’ll have to play with the density then. Thanks again for your help
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